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OLD    LANDMARKS 


OF 


BOSTON. 


Uniforin   with   this    volume. 
OLD    LANDMARKS 

AND 

Historic  Fields  of  Middlesex, 
by  samuel  adams  drake. 

Illustrated.     Price  #2.00. 
Roberts  Brothers,  Publishers. 


Old  Landmarks 


AND 


Historic   Personages 


OF     BOSTON. 


By   SAMUEL    ADAMS    DRAKE. 


KIlustratcB. 


BOSTON: 

ROBERTS     BROTHERS. 

1876. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1372, 

BY    JAMES    R.    OSGOOD    &    CO., 

in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


FIFTH     EDITION. 


Cambridge : 
Pressivork  by  John   Wilson  6°  Son. 


13.31 


PREFACE 


THE  author  lias  had  a  twofold  object  in  presenting 
this  work  for  the  acceptance  of  the  public. 

Besides  the  preservation  of  the  old  landmarks,  now  so 
rapidly  disappearing  before  the  era  of  improvement,  there 
is  a  very  general  desire  to  know  where  the  actors  lived 
who  have  given  Boston  such  prominence  in  the  history 
of  our  country. 

The  plan  has  been  adopted,  in  viewing  old  localities,  to 
tell  for  what  they  have  been  famous,  and  to  briefly  charac- 
terize or  give  some  conspicuous  traits  and  public  services 
of  the  personages  mentioned. 

In  view  of  the  limits  prescribed  for  this  volume  it  has 
been  found  necessary  to  condense  from  the  abundant  ma- 
terial in  the  author's  possession,  but  it  is  believed  the 
more  important  features  have  been  given. 

While  the  numerous  local  publications  have  been  care- 
fully examined,  the  author  has  in  all  cases  preferred  orig- 
inal authorities  in  the  work  of  compilation,  and  has  en- 
deavored to  give  credit  where  it  is  due.  The  beaten  track 
has  been  avoided  as  far  as  possible,  and  preference  given 
to  such  topics  as  have  either  escaped  mention  altogether, 
or  received  but  little  notice  from  former  writers. 

In  a  work  so  largely  statistical  it  would  be  a  surprise  if 
errors  did  not  exist,  but  unwearied  pains  have  been  taken 
to  avoid  them  and  to  render  the  work  as  free  from  this 
objection  as  possible. 


VI  PREFACE. 

The  author  believes  that  antiquarian  subjects  need  not 
of  necessity  be  either  dry  or  uninteresting,  and' has  aimed 
to  make  these  pages  agreeable  to  the  general  reader, — 
a  class  he  is  happy  to  say  in  which  a  growing  interest 
in  the  early  history  of  the  founders  of  New  England  is 
evident. 

Many  persons  have  laid  the  author  under  obligations 
by  the  loan  of  documents  or  by  communicating  valuable 
information.  He  would  express  his  deep  sense  of  the 
favors  and  assistance  rendered  him  by  that  eminent  and 
thoroughly  unselfish  antiquarian,  John  Ward  Dean,  and 
also  by  Miss  E.  S.  Quincy  and  John  H.  Dexter.  Among 
the  many  persons  consulted,  who  have  kindly  contributed 
in  various  ways  to  the  success  of  this  work,  are  Captain 
George  H.  Preble,  U.  S.  N.,  Isaac  Story,  Lemuel  Shaw, 
George  Mountfort,  William  H.  Montague,  J.  Win- 
gate  Thornton,  Eowland  Ellis,  and  Timothy  Dodd, 
Esqrs.,  the  latter  of  whom,  at  the  advanced  age  of  ninety- 
three,  retained  a  clear  recollection  of  Boston  as  it 
existed  three  quarters  of  a  century  ago. 

Boston,  Mass.,  October  22,  1872. 


CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTION. 

Myles    Standish.  —William    Blackstone.  —  Shawmut.  —  Settlement  by 
Wintlirop's  Company.  —  Trimountain.  —  Boston.  —  Physical  Features. 

—  Area.  —  Settlement  by  Indians.  —  Character  of  first  Buildings.  — 
First  Location  of  the  Settlers.  —  Geographical  Divisions.  —  Wood  and 
Water.  —  Dress.  —  Manners  and  Customs.  —  Slavery.  —  Curious  old 
Laws.  —  Government  of  the  Town.  —  Allotment  of  Lands.  —  Intoler- 
ance of  the  Times.  —  The  Pulpit  a  Means  of  Intelligence.  —  Accounts 
by  various  Writers.  —  Town  Records.  —  General  Growth  and  Progress. 

—  Population.  —  Wards.  —  Paving  the  Streets.  —  Lighting  the  Streets. 

—  Supply  of  Water.  —  Enlargement  of  Boston.  —  Communication  with 
Mainland.  —  Ferries.  —  Bridges.  —  Coaches,  Public  and  Private.  — 
Railways 


CHAPTER  I. 
king's  chapel  and   the  neighborhood. 

History  of  the  Chapel.  —  Establishment  of  the  Church  of  England.  — 
Chapel  Burial-Ground.  —  Boston  Athenceum.  —  Academy  of  Arts  and 
Sciences.  —  Historical  Society.  —  The  Museum.  — The  Old  Comer.  — 
Royal  Custom  House.  — Washington.  — H.  G.  Otis.  — Daniel  Webster. 

—  Tremont  Street.  —  Howard  Street.  —  Pemberton  Hill.  —  Endicott.  — 
Captain  Southack.  —  Theodore  Lyman,  Senior.  —  John  Cotton.  —  Sir 
Henry  Vane.  —  Samuel  Sewall.  —  Gardiner  Greene.  —  Earl  Percy.  — 
Bellingham.  —  Faneuil.  —  Phillips.  —  Davenport.  —  Oxenbridge.  — 
Beacon  Street. — School  Street. — Latin  School. — Franklin   Statue. 

—  City  Hall.  —  Otis.  — Warren.  —  Mascarene.  —  Cromwell's  Head.  — 
The  Old  Corner  Bookstore.  —  Anne  Hutchinson.  — The  French  Church. 

—  Catholic  Church.  —  Second  Universalist.  —  Province  Street.  —  Chap- 
man Place.  —  James  Lovell.  —  The  Wendells 28 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    II. 

FROM    TIIE    ORANGE-TREE    TO    THE    OLD    ERICK. 

Hanover  Street.  — General  Warren.  — The  Orange-Tree.  — Concert  Hall. 

—  Brattle  Street.  —  Samuel  Gore.  —  John  Smibert.  —  Nathaniel  Smi- 
bert.  —  Colonel  Trumbull.  —  The  Adelphi.  —  Scollay's  Buildings  and 
Square.  —  Queen'  Street  Writing  School.  —  Master  James  Carter.  — 
Cornhill.  —  Brattle  Street  Parsonage.  —  Old  Prison.  —  Captain  Kidd. 

—  Court  Houses.  —  Franklin  Avenue.  —  Kneeland.  —  Franklin.  — 
Edes  and  Gill.  —  Green  and  Russell.  —  First  Book  and  Newspaper 
printed  in  Boston.  - —  Rufus  Choate.  —  Governor  Leverett.  —  John  A. 
Andrew.  —  Henry  Dunster.  —  Town  Pump.  —  Old  Brick.  —  General 
Knox.  —  Count  Rumford.  —  John  Winslow 68 

CHAPTER    III. 

FROM   THE   OLD   STATE    HOUSE   TO    BOSTON   PIER. 

Captain  Keayne.  —  Coggan,  first  Shopkeeper.  —  Old  Cornhill.  —  Old 
State  House.  —  First  Church.  —  Stocks  and  Whipping-Post.  —  John 
Wilson.  —  Wilson's  Lane.  —  United  States  Bank.  —  Royal  Exchange 
Tavern.  —  William  Sheaffe.  —  Royal  Custom  House.  —  Exchange  Cof- 
fee House.  —  "Columbian  Centinel."  —  Benjamin  Russell.  — Louis 
Philippe.  —  Louis  Napoleon.  —  Congress  Street.  —  Governors  Dummer 
and  Belcher.  —  First  United  States  Custom  House.  —  Post-Office.  — 
Bunch  of  Grapes.  — General  Lincoln.  —  General  Dearborn.  —  First 
Circulating  Library.  —  Britisli  Coffee  House.  —  Merchants'  Row.  — 
First  Inn.  —  Lord  Ley.  —  Miantonimoh.  —  Kilby  Street.  —  Oliver's 
Dock.  —  Liberty  Square.  —  The  Stamp  Office.  —  Broad  Street.  —  Com- 
modore Dowries.  —  Broad  Street  Riot.  —  India  Street  and  Wharf.  — 
Admiral  Vernon.  —  Crown  Coffee  House.  —  Butler's  Row.  —  The 
Custom  House.  —  Retrospective  View  of  State  Street.  — Long  Wharf.  — 
TheBarricado.  —  T  Wharf.  —Embarkation  for  Bunker  Hill        .        .     88 

CHAPTER    IV. 

BRATTLE   SQUARE   AND   THE   TOWN   DOCK. 

Old  Cornhill. — Paul  Revere. — Amos  and  Abbott  Lawrence. — Boyls- 
ton's  Alley.  —  Barracks  of  the  29th.  —  Blue  Anchor.  —  Brattle  Street 
Church.  —  General  Gage.  —  Howe,  Clinton,  and  Burgoyne.  —  John 
Adams.  —  Headquarters  of  Stage-Coaches.  —  Dock  Square.  —  The 
Conduit.  —  Town  Dock  described.  —  Quincy  Market.  —  Origin  of  Mar- 
kets in  Boston.  —  The  Triangular  Warehouse.  —  Roebuck  Passage.  — 
Clinton  Street.  —  The  Old  Market  Museum.  —  Old  Cocked  Hat.  — 
Faneuil  Hall.  —  D'Estaing.  —  Lafayette.  —  Jackson.  — Prince  de  Join- 
ville.  —  Jerome  Bonaparte.  —  Lord  Ashburton.  —  The  Portraits.  — 
Corn  Court.  — ■  Hancock  House.  —  Talleyrand.  —  State  Custom  House. 

—  The  Conscription  Riot 118 


CONTENTS.  IX 

CHAPTER    V. 

FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH    BATTERY. 

The  North  End.  —  Boston  Stone.  —  Painters'  Arms.  —  Louis  Philippe.  — 
Union,  Elm,  and  Portland  Streets.  —  Benjamin  Franklin's  Residence. 

—  The  Blue  Ball.  — Lyman  Beecher's  Church.  — Benjamin  Hallowell. 

—  Green  Dragon.  —  Pope  Day.  —  St.  Andrew's  Lodge.  — •  Mill  Pond.  — 
Causeway.  — Mill  Creek.  —  North  Street.  —  Sir  D.  Ochterlony.  —  East- 
ern Stage  House.  —  Cross  Street.  — The  Old  Stone  House.  —New  Brick 
Church.  —  The  Red  Lyon.  —  Nicholas  Upshall.  —  Edward  Randolph.  — 
North  Square.  —  Sir  H.  Frankland.  —  Major  Shaw.  —  Pitcairn.  —  Old 
North  Church.  —  Cotton,  Samuel,  and  Increase  Mather.  —  Governor 
Hutchinson.  —  General  Boyd.  —  Fleet  Street.  —  King's  Head  Tavern. 

—  Bethel  Church. — Father  Taylor. — Hancock's  Wharf. — Swinging 
Signs. — First  Universalist  Church. — First  Methodist. — New  North. 
■ —  Ship  Tavern.  —  Noah's  Ark.  —  Salutation  Tavern.  —  The  Boston 
Caucus.  —  The  North  Battery.  —  Trucks  and  Truckmen     .        .        .     143 

CHAPTER    VI. 

A   VISIT   TO   THE   OLD   SHIPYARDS. 

Early  Ship-Building.  —  Boston  Shipyards.  —  Massachusetts  Frigate.  — 
New  England  Naval  Flag.  —  First  Seventy-Four.  —  Hartt's  Naval 
Yard.  —  The  Constitution.  —  Her  Launch,  History,  and  Exploits.  — 
Anecdotes  of  Hull,  Bambridge,  and  Decatur.  —  Old  Ironsides  Rebuilt. 

—  Josiah  Barker.  —  Nicholson.  — Preble.  — Stewart.  —  Other  Distin- 
guished Officers. —  Escape  from  the  British  Fleet. — Anecdote  of  Dr. 
Bentley.  — Action  with  the  Guerriere.  —  The  Java.  —  Cyane  and  Le- 
vant. —  Relics  of  Old  Ironsides.  —  Affair  of  the  Figure-Head.  —  Cap- 
tain Dewey.  —  The  Frigate  Boston.  —  Capture  of  Le  Berceau.  —  The 
Argus 178 


CHAPTER  VII. 

COPP'S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY. 

Copp's  Hill.  —  British  Works.  —  Ancient  Arch.  —  Win.  Gray.  —  Old 
Ferry.  —  Reminiscences  of  Bunker  Hill.  —  The  Cemetery.  —  Curious 
Stones,  Epitaphs,  etc.  —  Old  Funeral  Customs.  —  Charter  Street.  —  ' 
Sir  William  Phips.  — John  Foster  Williams.  —John  Hull.  —  Colonial 
Mint.  —  Christ  Church.  —  Revere's  Night  Ride.  —The  Chimes.  —The 
Vaults,  —  Legends  of.  —  Major  Pitcairn.  —  Love  Lane.  —  North  Latin 
School.  —  Prince  Street.  — Salem  Church. — North  End  Heroes. — 
Captain  Manly.  —  Massachusetts  Spy.  —  First  Baptist  Church.  —  Sec- 
ond Baptist  Church.  —  Draft  Riot,  1863 198 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

THE   OLD   SOUTH   AND    PROVINCE   HOUSE. 

Marlborough  Street. — Governor  Winthrop.  —  Old  South. — Warren's 
Orations.  —  Tea-Party  Meeting.  —  British  Occupation.  —  Pliillis 
Wheatley.  —  Spring  Lane.  —  Heart  and  Crown.  —  Boston  Evening 
Post.  —Province  House.  —  Samuel  Shute.  —  William  Burnet. —Wil- 
liam Shirley.  —  Thomas  Pownall.  —  Francis  Bernard.  —  General  Gage. 

—  Lexington  Expedition.  —  Sir  William  Howe.  —  Council  of  War.  — 
Court  Dress  and  Manners.  —  Governor  Strong.  —  Blue  Bell  and  In- 
dian Queen.  — Lieutenant-Governor  Cushing.  — Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.  — 
Mayor  Quincy 225 

CHAPTER    IX. 

FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL. 

Birthplace  of  Franklin.  —  James  Boutineau.  —  Bowdoin  Block.  — 
Hawley  Street.  —  Devonshire  and  Franklin  Streets.  —  Joseph  Barrell. 

—  The  Tontine.  —  Boston  Library.  —  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross.  — 
Bishop  Cheverus.  —  Federal  Street  Theatre.  —  Some  Account  of  Early 
Theatricals  in  Boston.  —  Kean,  Finn,  Macready,  etc.  —  John  How- 
ard Payne.  — ■  Federal  Street  Church.  —  The  Federal  Convention.  — 
Madam  Scott.  —  Robert  Treat  Paine.  —  Thomas  Paine.  —  Congress 
Street.  —  Quaker  Church  and  Burying-Ground.  —  Sketch  of  the  So- 
ciety of  Friends  in  Boston.  —  Merchants'  Hall.  —  Governor  Shirley's 
Funeral.  —  Fire  of  1760. —Pearl  Street. —The  Ropewalks.  —  The 
Grays.  —  Conflicts  between  the  Rope-Makers  and  the  Regulars.  — 
Pearl  Street  House.  —  Spurzheim.  —  Washington  Allston.  —  Theophi- 
lus  Parsons.  —  T.  H.  Perkins.  —  Governor  Oliver.  —  Quincy  Mansion. 
— Governor  Gore.  — Liverpool  Wharf.  — Tea  Party  and  Incidents  of. 

—  The  Sconce.  —  Governor  Andros  Deposed.  —  Sun  Tavern.  —  Fort 
Hill 251 

CHAPTER   X. 

A   TOUR   ROUND    THE    COMMON. 

Long  Acre.  —  Tremont  House.  —  Mr.  Clay.  —  President  Jackson.  — 
Charles  Dickens.  —  Little  House-Lot.  —  Tremont  Theatre.  —  The  Ca- 
dets. —  Adino  Paddock.  —  Paddock's  Mall.  —  Granary  Burying- 
Ground.  —  The  Granary.  —  Almshouse.  —  Workhouse.  —  Bridewell. 

—  Park  Street  Church.  —  Manufactory  House.  —  Linen-Spinning  In- 
troduced. —  Elisha  Brown.  —  Massachusetts  Bank.  —  Incident  of  the 
Lexington  Expedition.  —  The  Common.  —  Its  Origin.  —  The  Great 
Mall.  —  Fences.  —  Winter  Street.  —  Governor  Bernard.  —  John  Mc- 
Lean. —  Samuel  Adams.  —  St.  Paul's.  —  Masonic  Temple.  —  Margaret 
Fuller.  —  Washington  Gardens.  —  The  Haymarket.  —  West  Street.  — 


CONTENTS.  XI 

The  Gun-House.  —  Colonnade  Row.  —  Massachusetts  Medical  College. 

—  Haymarket   Theatre.  —  Boylston   Street.  —  John    Quincy  Adams. 

—  General  Moreau.  —  Charles  Francis  Adams 2S9 

CHAPTER    XI. 

A   TOUR   ROUND   THE   COMMON   CONTINUED. 

Common  Burying-Ground.  —  Joshua  Bates.  —  Public  Garden.  —  Rope- 
walks.  —  Topography  of  the  Common.  —  British  Troops  on.  —  Descrip- 
tion of  their  Camps.  —  The  Light  Horse.  —  Powder  House.  —  Old 
Elm.  —  Witchcraft  and  Quaker  Executions.  —  The  Duel  in  1728.  — 
Mill-Dam.  —  Mexican  Volunteers.  —  Beacon  Street.  —  Prescott.  — 
Copley.  —  John  Phillips.  —Wendell  Phillips.  —  Robert  C.  Winthrop. 

—  Hancock  Mansion.  —  Governor  Hancock.  —  General  Clinton.  — 
State  House.  —  Public  Statues,  etc.  —  The  Beacon.  —  The  Monument. 

—  Lafayette's  Residence.  —  George  Ticknor.  —  Malbone.  —  Samuel 
Dexter.  —  Incidents   of  Lafayette's  Visit  in  1824.  —  Josiah  Quincy, 

Jr.  —  Historical  Resume.  —  Repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act ....  323 

CHAPTER  XII. 

VALLEY   ACRE,    THE   BOWLING   GREEN,    AND   WEST   BOSTON. 

Governor  Bowdoin.  —  General  Burgoyne.  —  Boston  Society  in  1782.  — 
David  Hinckley's  Stone  Houses.  —  James  Lloyd.  —  Lafayette.  —  Dan- 
iel Davis.  —  Admiral  Davis.  —  Historic  Genealogical  Society.  —  Valley 
Acre.  —  Uriah  Cotting.  —  Governor  Eustis.  —  Anecdote  of  Governor 
Brooks.  —  Millerite  Tabernacle.  —  Howard  Athenaeum.  —  Bowling 
Green. — Old  Boston  Physicians. — Charles  Bulfinch. — New  Fields. 

—  Peter  Chardon.  —  Mrs.  Pelham.  —  Peter  Pelham.  —  Thomas  Melvill. 

—  Dr.  William  Jenks.  —  Captain  Gooch.  —  West  Church.  —  Leverett 
Street  Jail.  —  Poor  Debtors.  —  Almshouse.  —  Massachusetts  General 
Hospital.  —  Medical  College.  —  National  and  Eagle  Theatres       .        .  361 

.CHAPTER   XIII. 

FROM   CHURCH    GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE. 

Church  Green.  —  New  South  Church.  —  Dr.  Kirkland.  — American  Head- 
quarters. —  General  Heath.  —  Anecdote  of  General  Gates.  —  Jerome 
Bonaparte.  —  Sir  William  Peppcrell.  —  Nathaniel  Bowditch.  —  George 
Bancroft.  —  Trinity  Church.  —  Seven  Star  Inn  and  Lane.  —  Peter 
Faneuil.  —  Governor  Sullivan.  —  Small-Pox  Parties.  —  Duke  of  Kent. 

—  Sir  Edmund  Andros.  —  Lamb  Tavern.  —  White  Horse  Tavern.  — 
Colonel  Daniel  Messinger.  —  Lion  Tavern.  —  Handel  and  Haydn  So- 
ciety. —  Lion  Theatre.  —  Curious  Statement  about  Rats      .        .        .  3S0 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

LIBERTY    TREE    AND    THE    NEIGHBORHOOD. 

Liberty  Tree.  —  Its  History.  —  Hanover  Square.  —  Liberty  Hall.  — 
Hanging  in  EfRgy.  —  Auchmuty's  Lane.  —  The  Old  Suffolk  Bench  and 
Bar.  —  Boylston  Market.  —  Charles  Matthews.  —  James  E.  Murdoch. 

—  Peggy  Moore's.  —  Washington  Bank.  —  Beach  Street  Museum.  — 
Essex  Street.  —  Rainsford's  Lane.  —  Harrison  Avenue.  —  Admiral  Sir 
Isaac  Coffin.  —  General  John  Coffin.  — Anecdote  of  Admiral  Coffin.  — 
Sir  Thomas  Aston  Coffin.  —  Henry  Bass.  —  Old  Distill-Houses.  — 
Manufacture  of  Rum.  —  Gilbert  Stuart,  —  Anecdotes  of.  —  First  Glass 
Works.  —  Disappearance  of  Trees.  —  Early  planting  of  Trees.  —  Sir 
Roger  Hale  Sheaffe.  —  South  Cove.  —  Hollis  Street.  —  Colonel  John 
Crane.  —  General  Ebenezer  Stevens.  —  Mather  Byles,  —  Anecdotes  of. 

—  Hollis  Street  Church.  —  Fire  of  1787 396 

CHAPTER  XV. 

THE   NECK   AND   THE   FORTIFICATIONS. 

The  Neck  described.  —  Measures  to  protect  the  Road.  —  Paving  the 
Neck.  —  Henry  T.  Tuckerman.  —  Old  Houses  vs.  Modern.  —  Massa- 
chusetts Mint.  — The  Gallows.  —  Anecdote  of  Warren.  — Executions. 

—  Early  Fortifications.  —  The  British  Works  and  Armament.  — Amer- 
ican Works.  —  George  Tavern.  —  Washington's  Staff.  —  His  Personal 
Traits.  —  Washington  House.  ■ —  Washington  Hotel.  —  Anecdotes  of 
George  Tavern.  —  Scarcity  of  Powder.  —  Continental  Flags.  —  Entry 
of  Washington's  Army.  —  Entry  of  Rochambeau's  Army.  —  Paul 
Jones 418 


INDEX 439 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Page 

America  in  Distress 359 

Ancient  House  in  Dock  Square 133 

Ancient  Mill 199 

Ancient  Ship 178 

Beacon,  The 349 

Blue  Ball,  The 146 

Boston  Stone 143 

Boston  Theatre  and  Franklin  Street 257 

Brattle  Street  Church 123 

British  Lines  on  Boston  Neck,  1775 425 

Cavalier 11 

Christ  Church 213 

Colonial  Currency,  One  Penny  .        .  237 

Colonial  Currency,  Two  Pence 237 

Colonial  Currency,  Three  Pence 238 

Colonial  Stamp,  Half-Penny 239 

Colonial  Stamp,  Two  Pence 240 

Colonial  Stamp,  Three  Pence 240 

Colonial  Stamp,  Four  Pence 240 

Colony  Seal 242 

Constitution's  Figure-Head  carried  in  the  War  of  1812     ....  182 
Constitution  hauled  up  on  the  Ways 192 

Endicott  cutting  out  the  Cross 48 

Exchange  Coffee-House 98 

Faneuil  Hall  before  its  Enlargement 134 

Faneuil  Hall  with  Quincy  Market 136 

Faneuil  Hall  Lottery  Ticket 343 

Faneuil,  Peter,  Autograph 387 

First  Baptist  Church  in  1853 151 

Franklin's  Birthplace 252 

Frankland's  Mansion 164 

Gage,  General,  Autograph 243 

Glasgow  Frigate 208 


XIV  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Granary  Burying-Ground 297 

Great  Mall,  Haymarket  and  Theatre Frontispiece 

Hancock  House 339 

Hollis  Street  Church 415 

Indian  Wigwam .....  8 

Julien  House 270 

King's  Chapel  in  1872 29 

Lafayette's  Residence 353 

Liberty  Tree 397 

Linen  Spinning- Wheel 302 

Massachusetts  Cent  of  1787 422 

Massachusetts  General  Hospital 377 

Mather  Tomb 204 

Monument  (Beacon  Hill) 350 

New  Brick  Church 156 

New  England  Flag 179 

New  North  Church 173 

New  South  Church 380 

Old  Brick  Church 84 

Old  Corner  Bookstore 62 

Old  Court-House 59 

Old  Elm,  The 330 

Old  Federal  Street  Church     .        .        .  <    « 263 

Old  King's  Chapel *. 31 

Old  Loom 322 

Old  Printing-Press 79 

Old  South 227 

Old  State  House  in  1791 89 

Old  Trinity  Church 386 

Parliamentary  Stamp  Half-Penny 81 

Parliamentary  Stamp  Shilling 81 

Park  Street  Church 301 

Pillory,  The 93 

Pine-Tree  Shilling,  1652 211 

Province  House 235 

Repeal  Obelisk 358 

Revere's  Picture  of  Boston  in  1768 119 

Saint  Paul's  Church 310 

Sears  Estate 335 

Shirley,  Governor,  Arms  . 36 

Shirley,  Governor,  Portrait 28 

Ship  of  the  Time  of  the  Pilgrims 180 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  XV 

Sign  of  Three  Doves     .                 147 

Six-Penny  Piece 212 

Speaker's  Desk  and  Winslow's  Chair 347 

St.  Botolph's  Church 6 

Stocks,  The 92 

Tea  Chest 282 

Three-Penny  Piece 212 

Triangular  Warehouse 131 

Trimountain 3 

Trinity  Church  in  1872 387 

Trophy  of  Indian  Weapons 1 

United  States  Bank 95 

Washington's  Lodgings 42 

West  Church 374 

Window  of  Brattle  Street  Church,  with  Ball 124 

Winthrop  fording  the  River 25 

Woollen  Spinning- Wheel 302 


INTRODUCTION 


Myles  Standish.  —  William  Blackstone.  —  Shawmut.  —  Settlement  by  Win- 
throp's  Company.  —  Trimountain.  —  Boston.  —  Physical  Features.  —  Area. 
—  Settlement  by  Indians.  —  Character  of  first  Buildings.  —  First  Location 
of  the  Settlers.  —  Geographical  Divisions.  —  Wood  and  Water.  —  Dress.  — 
Manners  and  Customs.  —  Slavery.  —  Curious  old  Laws.  —  Government  of 
the  Town.  —  Allotment  of  Lands.  —  Intolerance  of  the  Times.  —  The 
Pulpit  a  Means  of  Intelligence. — Accounts  by  various  Writers. — Town 
Records.  —  General  Growth  and  Progress.  —  Population.  —  Wards.  — 
Paving  the  Streets.  —  Lighting  the  Streets.  —  Supply  of  Water.  —  En- 
largement of  Boston.  —  Communication  with  Mainland.  —  Ferries.  — 
Bridges.  —  Coaches,  public  and  private.  —  Railways. 


AN"  old  Boston  divine  says,  "  It  would  be  no  unprofitable 
tbing  for  you  to  pass  over  the  several  streets  and  call  to 
mind  who  lived  here  so  many  years  ago."  We  learn  from  the 
poet  Gay  how  to  prepare  for  our  rambles  through  the  town  :  — 

"  How  to  walk  clean  by  day,  and  safe  by  night ; 
How  jostling  crowds  with  prudence  to  decline, 
When  to  assert  the  wall  and  when  resign." 

To  see  or  not  to  see  is  the  problem  presented  to  him  who 
walks  the  streets  of  town  or  village.  What  to  one  is  a  heap 
of  ruins  or  a  blank  wall  may  to  another  become  the  abode  of 
the  greatest  of  our  ancestors  or  the  key  to  a  remote  period.  A 
mound  of  earth  becomes  a  battlement ;  a  graveyard,  a  collection 
of  scattered  pages  whereon  we  read  the  history  of  the  times. 

Facts  are  proverbially  dry,  and  we  shall  trouble  the  reader 
as  little  as  possible  with  musty  records  or  tedious  chronology ; 

1  A 


2  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

but  before  we  set  out  to  explore  and  reconstruct,  a  brief  glance 
at  the  material  progress  of  Boston  seems  desirable.  ' 

For  a  hundred  years  Boston  must  be  considered  as  little 
more  than  a  sea-shore  village,  straggling  up  its  thicket-grown 
hillsides.  The  Indian  camp-lire,  the  axe  of  Blackstone,  the 
mattock  and  spade  of  Winthrop's  band,  —  each  have  their  story 
and  their  lesson.     We  shall  pass  each  period  in  rapid  review. 

Whether  Myles  Standish,  "  broad  in  the  shoulders,  deep- 
chested,  with  muscles  and  sinews  of  iron,"  was  the  hrst  white 
man  who  stood  on  the  beach  of  the  peninsula  is  a  matter  merely 
of  conjecture.  Certain  it  is  that  in  1621  this  redoubtable 
Puritan  soldier,  with  ten  companions,  sailed  from  Plymouth  and 
landed  somewhere  in  what  is  now  Boston  Bay.  They  crossed 
the  bay,  "  which  is  very  large,  and  hath  at  least  fifty  islands  in 
it " ;  and,  after  exploring  the  shores,  decided  "  that  better  har- 
bors for  shipping  there  cannot  be  than  here."  They  landed, 
hobnobbed  with  Obbatinewat,  lord  of  the  soil,  feasted  upon 
lobsters  and  boiled  codfish,  and  departed,  leaving  no  visible 
traces  for  us  to  pursue.  This  expedition  was  undertaken  to 
secure  the  friendship  of  the  "  Massachusetts "  Indians,  —  a 
result  fully  accomplished  by  Standish. 

The  Indians  told  the  Englishmen  that  two  large  rivers  flowed 
into  the  bay,  of  which,  however,  they  saw  but  one.  This  cir- 
cumstance, indefinite  as  it  is,  justifies  the  opinion  that  Stan- 
dish's  party  landed  at  Shawmut,  the  Indian  name  for  our  penin- 
sula. If  they  had  landed  at  Charlestown  and  ascended  the 
heights  there,  as  is  supposed  by  some  writers,  they  could  hardly 
have  escaped  seeing  both  the  Mystic  and  Charles,  while  at 
Shawmut  they  would  probably  have  seen  only  the  latter  river. 

In  AVilliam  Blackstone,  Episcopalian,  we  have  the  first  white 
settler  of  the  peninsula.  The  date  of  his  settlement  has  been 
supposed  to  have  been  about  1G2G,  although  there  is  nothing 
conclusive  on  this  point  known  to  the  writer.  Here  he  was, 
however,  in  1628,  when  we  find  him  taxed  by  the  Plymouth 
Colony  twelve  shillings,  on  account  of  the  expenses  incurred 
by  the  colony  in  the  capture  of  Thomas  Morton  at  Mount 
Wollaston.* 

*  Belknap's  American  Biography. 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  place  where  Blackstone  located  his  dwelling  has  given 
rise  to  much  controversy,  but  can  be  fixed  with  some  degree 
of  certainty.  Like  a  sen- 
sible man,  Blacksto  ne  chose 
the  sunny  southwest  slope 
of  Beacon  Hill  for  his  res- 
idence. The  records  show 
that  in  April,  1G33,  "it  is 
agreed  that  William  Black- 
stone  shall  have  fifty  acres 
set  out  for  him  near  his 
house  in  Boston  to  enjoy 
forever."  In  the  following 
year  Blackstone  sold  the 
town  all  of  his  allotment 
except  six  acres,  on  part  of 
which  his  house  then  stood 
in  and  to  the  peninsula,  — 


TRIMOrNTAIK. 


the  sale  also  including  all  his  right 
a  right  thus,  in  some  form,  recog- 
nized by  Winthrop  and  his  associates.  The  price  paid  for  the 
whole  peninsula  of  Boston  was  £  30,  assessed  upon  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  town,  some  paying  six  shillings,  and  some  more, 
according  to  their  circumstances  and  condition. 

The  Charlestown  records  locate  Blackstone  as  "  dwelling  on 
the  other  side  of  Charles  River,  alone,  to  a  place  by  the  Indians 
called  Shawmut,*  where  he  only  had  a  cottage  at  a  place  not 
far  off  the  place  called  Blackstone's  Point " ;  this  is  also  con- 
firmed by  Edward  Johnson  in  1G30,  in  his  "Wonder  Work- 
ing Providence."  After  the  purchase  by  the  town  of  Black- 
stone's  forty-four  acres,  they  laid  out  the  "  training  field,  which 
was  ever  since  used  for  that  purpose  and  the  feeding  of  cattle." 
This  was  the  origin  of  Boston  Common.  Two  landmarks  ex- 
isted to  fix  the  site  of  Blackstone's  house,  namely,  the  orchard 
planted  by  him, —  the  first  in  New  England,  —  and  his  spring. 
The  orchard  is  represented  on  the  early  maps  ;  is  mentioned  in 
17G5  as  still  bearing  fruit;  and  is  named  in  the  deeds  of  sub- 

*  Perhaps  an  abbreviation  of  "  Mushauwomuk,"  as  given  in  Grindal  Rawson's 

"  Confessions  of  Faith,"  printed  in  1699.     Probably  meaning  unclaimed  land. 


4  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

sequent  possessors.  The  spring,  which  must  have  determined 
to  some  extent  the  location  of  the  house,  was  probafoly  near  the 
junction  of  Beacon  Street  with  Charles,  although  others  existed 
in  the  neighborhood.  The  six  acres  which  Mr.  Blackstone  re- 
served have  been  traced  through  Richard  Pepys,  an  original  pos- 
sessi  »r  by  a  sufficiently  clear  connection, — supplied  where  broken 
by  depositions,  —  to  the  Mount  Vernon  proprietors.  Copley,  the 
celebrated  painter,  was  once  an  owner  of  Blackstone's  six  acres, 
which  were  bounded  by  the  Common  on  the  south  and  the 
river  on  the  west. 

Blackstone  was  as  singular  a  character  as  can  be  found  in 
the  annals  of  Boston.  He  is  supposed  to  have  come  over  with 
Robert  Gorges  in  1623.  But  what  induced  him  to  withdraw 
to  such  a  distance  from  the  settlements  remains  a  mystery.  By 
a  coincidence,  his  namesake,  Sir  William  Blackstone,  the  great 
commentator  of  the  laws  of  England,  wrote  at  a  later  period  the 
following  lines  :  — - 

"As  by  some  tyrant's  stern  command, 
A  wretch  forsakes  his  native  land, 
In  foreign  climes  condemned  to  roam, 
An  endless  exile  from  his  home." 

The  nature  of  Blackstone's  claim  to  the  peninsula  is  doubt- 
ful, though  we  have  seen  it  recognized  by  Winthrop's  corn- 
pan)'.  Mather  grumblingly  alludes  to  it  thus  in  his  Magnalia  : 
"  There  were  also  some  godly  Episcopalians  ;  among  whom  has 
been  reckoned  Mr.  Blackstone ;  who,  by  happening  to  sleep 
first  in  an  old  hovel  upon  a  point  of  land  there,  laid  claim  to 
all  the  ground  whereupon  there  now  stands  the  Metropolis  of 
the  whole  English  America,  until  the  inhabitants  gave  him 
satisfaction."  This  concedes  only  a  squatter's  title  to  Black- 
stone. He  seems  to  have  had  a  kind  heart,  capable  of  feeling 
for  the  sufferings  of  his  fellow-men,  for,  hearing  of  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  Winthrop's  infant  settlement  at  Charlestown  by  disease 
and  death,  he  invites  them  over  to  Shawmut  in  1630.  Water, 
the  great  desideratum  of  a  settlement,  was  very  scarce  at 
Charlestown,  and  Blackstone  "  came  and  acquainted  the  Gov- 
ernor of  an  excellent   spring  there,  withal   inviting  him  and 


INTRODUCTION.  5 

soliciting  him  thither."  If  seclusion  was  Blackstone's  ohject, 
it  gave  way  to  his  interest  in  the  welfare  of  his  fellow-colonists. 

Upon  Blackstone's  advice  the  Charlestown  settlers  acted, 
and  many  removed  to  Shawmut  hy  the  end  of  August,  1G30. 
In  the  first  boat-load  that  went  over  was  Anne  Pollard,  who 
lived  to  be  nearly,  if  not  quite,  one  hundred  and  five  years 
old.  She  herself  related,  when  more  than  one  hundred  years 
of  age,  that  she  "  came  over  in  one  of  the  first  ships  that 
arrived  in  Charlestown ;  that  in  a  day  or  two  after  her  arrival, 
on  account  of  the  water  there  being  bad,  a  number  of  the  young 
people,  including  herself,  took  the  ship's  boat  to  cross  over  to 
Boston  ;  that  as  the  boat  drew  up  towards  the  shore,  she  (1  icing 
then  a  romping  girl)  declared  she  would  be  the  first  to  land, 
and  accordingly,  before  any  one,  jumped  from  the  bow  of  the 
boat  on  to  the  beach."  According  to  this  statement,  which  is 
based  upon  good  authority,  Anne  Pollard  was  the  first  white 
female  that  trod  upon  the  soil  of  Boston.  Hudson's  Point,  now 
the  head  of  Charlestown  bridge,  but  formerly  the  site  of  the 
old  ferry,  was  probably  the  place  where  Anne  first  left  the 
impress  of  her  foot.  Her  portrait,  at  the  age  of  one  hundred 
and  three  years,  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Massachusetts  His- 
torical Society,  and  her  deposition,  at  the  age  of  eighty-nine 
years,  was  used  to  substantiate  the  location  of  Blackstone's 
house.  In  it  she  says  that  Mr.  Blackstone,  after  his  removal 
from  Boston,  frequently  resorted  to  her  husband's  house,  and 
that  she  never  heard  any  controversy  about  the  land,  between 
her  husband,  Pepys,  or  Blackstone,  but  that  it  was  always 
reputed  to  belong  to  the  latter. 

Blackstone,  in  1634,  removed  to  Rehoboth,  not  liking,  we 
may  conclude,  the  close  proximity  of  his  Puritan  neighbors,  of 
whom  he  is  reported  to  have  said,  that  he  left  England  because 
of  his  dislike  to  the  Lords  Bishops,  but  now  he  would  not  be 
under  the  Lords  Brethren. 

In  1659  Blackstone  was  married  to  Mary  Stevenson  of 
Boston,  willow,  by  Governor  Endicott.  He  died  in  KIT"),  a  short 
time  before  the  breaking  out  of  King  Philip's  War,  during  which 
his  plantation  was  ravaged  by  the  Indians,  ami  his  dwelling 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


destroyed,  with  his  papers  and  books,  —  a  circumstance  that  lias 
prevented,  perhaps,  the  veil  being  lifted  that  shrouds  his  early 
history.  It  is  said  no  trace  of  his  grave  exists ;  but  he  left 
his  name  to  a  noble  river,  and  the  city  which  he  founded  per- 
petuates it  by  a  public  square  and  street. 

The  settlers  at  Charlestown  called  Shawmut  Trimountain,  not, 
says  Shaw,  on  account  of  the  three  principal  hills,  —  subse- 
quently Copp's,  Beacon,  and  Fort, — but  from  the  three  peaks  of 
Beacon  Hill,  which  was  then  considered  quite  a  high  mountain, 
and  is  so  spoken  of  by  Wood,  one  of  the  early  writers  about 
Boston  ;  the  reader  will  know  that  Beacon  and  its  two  outlying 
spurs  of  Cotton  (Pemberton)  and  Mt.  Vernon  are  meant. 

On  the  7th  of  September,  1630  (old  style),  at  a  court 
held  in  Charlestown,  it  was  ordered  that  Trimountain  be  called 

Boston.  Many  of  the  set- 
tlers had  already  taken  up 
their  residence  there,  and 
"  thither  the  frame  of  the 
governor's  house  was  car- 
ried, and  people  began  to 
build  their  houses  against 
winter."  Clinging  to  the 
old  associations  of  their 
native  land,  the  settlers 
named  their  new  home  for 
old  Boston  in  Lincolnshire, 
England,  whence  a  num- 
ber of  members  of  the  com- 
pany had  emigrated.  The 
name  itself  owes  its  origin 
to  Botolph,  a  pious  old 
Saxon  of  the  seventh  cen- 
tury, afterwards  canonized 
st.  botolphs,  Boston,  esulasd.  as  the  tutelar  saint  of  mar- 

iners, and  shows  an  ingenuity  of  corruption  for  which  England 
is  famed.  Beciprocal  courtesies  have  been  exchanged  between 
English  Boston  and  her  namesake.     The  former  presented  her 


INTRODUCTION.  7 

charter  in  a  frame  of  the  wood  of  old  Saint  Botolph's  church, 
which  hangs  in  our  City  Hall,  while  Edward  Everett,  in  the 
name  of  the  descendants  and  admirers  of  John  Cotton,  gave 
$  2,000  for  the  restoration  of  a  chapel  in  St.  Botolph's,  and  the 
erection  therein  of  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  that  much 
venerated  divine,  who  had  been  vicar  of  St.  Botolph's  and 
afterwards  minister  of  the  First  Church  of  Christ  in  Boston, 
New  England. 

Boston  had  three  striking  topographical  features.  First,  its 
peninsular  character,  united  by  a  narrow  isthmus  to  the  main 
land  ;  next,  its  three  hills,  of  which  the  most  westerly  (Beacon) 
was  the  highest,  all  washed  at  their  base  by  the  sea  ;  and  lastly, 
corresponding  to  her  hills,  were  three  coves,  of  which  the  most 
easterly,  enclosed  by  the  headlands  of  Copp's  and  Fort  Hill, 
became  the  Town  Cove  and  Dock.  Of  the  other  coves,  the  one 
lying  to  the  south  of  the  Town  Cove  was  ■  embraced  between 
the  point  of  land  near  the  foot  of  South  Street,  formerly  known 
as  Windmill  Point,  and  the  head  of  the  bridge  to  South  Boston  ; 
this  bight  of  water  was  the  South  Cove.  A  third  inlet  on  the 
northwest  of  the  peninsula,  lying  between  the  two  points  of 
land  from  which  now  extend  bridges  to  Charlestown  and  East 
Cambridge,  became  subsequently  the  Mill  Pond,  by  the  build- 
ing of  a  causeway  on  substantially  the  present  line  of  Causeway 
Street.  Only  the  most  salient  features  are  here  given  ;  other 
interesting  peculiarities  will  be  alluded  to  in  their  places. 

At  high  tides  the  sea  swept  across  the  narrow  neck,  and 
there  is  every  reason  to  believe  also  covered  the  low  ground  now 
traversed  by  Blackstone  Street.  This  would  make,  for  the  time 
being,  two  islands  of  Boston.  The  early  names  given  to  the 
streets  on  the  water  front  described  the  sea  margin,  as  Fore 
(North)  Beach,  and  Back  (now  Salem)  Streets. 

In  process  of  time  these  distinctive  characteristics  have  all 
changed.  Boston  can  no  longer  be  called  a  peninsula  ;  one  of 
its  summits,  Fort  Hill,  has  to-day  no  existence,  while  the  others 
have  been  so  shorn  of  their  proportions  and  altitude  as  to  pre- 
sent a  very  different  view  from  any  quarter  of  approach  ;  as  for 
the  three  coves,  they  have  been  converted  into  terra  Jinna. 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


The  area  of  original  Boston  has  been  variously  estimated. 
By  Shaw,  at  700  acres;  Dr.  Morse,  the  geographer, "placed  it  in 
1800  at  700  acres,  admitting  that  some  accounts  fix  it  as  high 
as  1,000  acres,  while  Dr.  Shurtleff  says  less  than  1,000  acres. 

There  is  good  authority,  however,  for  computing  the  original 
peninsula  at  not  more  than  625  acres  of  firm  ground.  To 
this  has  been  added,  by  the  filling  of  the  Mill  Pond,  50  acres  ; 
the  South  Cove,  75  acres  (up  to  1837) ;  and  by  the  filling  of  the 
Town  Cove  or  Dock,  and  the  building  of  new  streets  on  the 
water  front,  enough  had  been  reclaimed  by  1852  to  amount  to 
600  acres,  —  nearly  the  original  area.  Since  that  time  the 
Back  Bay  improvement,  which  covers  680  acres,  and  Atlantic 
Avenue,  which  follows  the  old  Barricado  line,  have  added  as 
much  more  to  the  ancient  territory,  so  that  we  may  safely 
consider  her  original  limits  trebled,  without  reference  to  what 
has  been  acquired  by  annexation. 

At  the  time  of  the  English  settlement  hostilities  existed  be- 
tween the  Massachusetts  and  the  eastern  Indians ;  the  natives, 
ill^JljsiB^^     wno    seldoni    neg- 
^^rK  *  lected    to    provide 

for  retreat  in  case 
of  defeat,  chose 
rather  to  locate 
their  villages  far- 
ther inland,  at 
Mystic  and  else- 
where. 

There  is  evi- 
dence, however, 
that  Shawmut  was 
either  inhabited  by 
the  Indians  at  a  very  early  period,  or  used  as  a  place  of  sepul- 
ture by  them.  Dr.  Mather  related  that  three  hundred  skull- 
bones  had  been  dug  up  on  Cotton  (Pemberton)  Hill  when  he 
was  a  youth,  and  tradition  long  ascribed  to  this  locality  a  sort 
of  Golgotha.  To  support  this  view  there  was  found  in  April 
1733,  says  the  Xew  England  Journal,  a  number  of  skulls  and 


INDIAN    WIGWAM. 


INTRODUCTION.  9 

larger  human  bones  by  workmen  digging  in  a  garden  near  Dr. 
Cooper's  house  on  Cotton  Hill.  These  remains  were  considered, 
at  the  time,  to  be  those  of  the  natives.  Boston  has  been 
thoroughly  excavated  without  rinding  any  further  material  to 
confirm  this  belief. 

The  character  of  the  first  buildings  was  extremely  rude. 
They  were  of  wood,  with  thatched  roofs,  and  chimneys  built 
of  nieces  of  wood  placed  crosswise,  the  interstices  and  outside 
covered  with  clay.  Such  was  the  economy  of  the  times,  that 
Governor  Winthrop  reproved  his  deputy,  in  1G32,  "that  he 
did  not  well  to  bestow  so  much  cost  about  wainscotting  and 
adorning  his  house  in  the  beginning  of  a  plantation,  both  in 
regard  of  the  public  charges,  and  for  example."  The  answer 
was,  that  it  was  fur  the  warmth  of  his  house,  and  the  charge 
was  little,  being  but  clapboards  nailed  to  the  walls  in  the  form 
of  wainscot.* 

It  is  comparatively  recent  that  Boston  began  to  be  a  city  of 
brick  and  stone.  A  few  solidly  built  structures  were  scattered 
here  and  there  over  a  wide  area  ;  but  the  mass  were  of  wood,  in 
spite  of  some  attempts  made  by  the  town  to  induce  a  safer  and 
more  durable  style  of  architecture.  A  lady,  entering  Boston  in 
1795,  remarks:  "The  ranges  of  wooden  buildings  all  situated 
with  one  end  towards  the  street,  and  the  numerous  chaises  we 
met,  drawn  by  one  horse,  the  driver  being  placed  on  a  low  seat 
in  front,  appeared  to  me  very  singular."  Another  writer  ob- 
serves of  the  town  in  1805  :  "The  houses  were  most  of  them 
wood,  seldom  enlivened  by  paint,  and  closely  resembling  the  old- 
fashioned,  dark-looking  edifices  still  to  be  seen  in  Newport,  II.  I." 
At  this  time  there  was  but  one  brick  house  in  the  whole  of 
Tremont  Street,  and  it  was  not  until  1793  that  the  lirst  block 
of  brick  buildings  was  erected  in  what  is  now  Franklin  Street. 
In  1803  the  inflammable  character  of  the  town  was  thus 
described  :  — 

"  A  pyre  of  shapeless  structures  crowds  the  spot, 
Where  taste,  and  all  hut  cheapness  is  forgot. 
One  little  spark  the  funeral  pile  may  fire, 
And  Boston,  blazing,  see  itself  expire." 

*  Winthrop's  Journal,  p.  88. 


10  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Winthrop's  company  located  chiefly  within  the  space  com- 
prised between  what  are  now  Milk,  Bromfield,  Tremont,  and 
Hanover  Streets  and  the  water.  Pemberton  Hill  was  also  a 
favorite  locality,  as  we  shall  have  occasion  to  note.  The  North 
End,  by  removals  and  accessions,  soon  became  also  settled ; 
that  portion  of  the  town  lying  north  of  Union  Street  being 
thus  designated,  while  all  south  of  that  boundary  was  called 
the  South  End.  A  third  geographical  division,  embracing  the 
district  lying  to  the  west  and  north  of  Beacon  Hill,  and  west 
and  south  of  the  Mill  Pond,  was  known  as  New  Boston,  and 
also  as  West  Boston,  and  finally  as  the  West  End.  These 
names  have  been  retained,  but  the  boundaries  of  all  but  the 
North  End  have  been  considered  movable,  and  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  follow. 

The  first  settlers  found  Boston  thinly  wooded,  whatever  its 
original  condition  may  have  been.  The  timber  lay  mainly 
along  the  Neck,  with  clumps  of  trees  here  and  there.  The  great 
elm  on  the  Common  is  doubtless  one  of  native  growth,  and  be- 
fore the  Revolution  of  1776  there  was  another  almost  equally 
large  near  the  corner  of  what  is  now  West  and  Tremont  Streets. 
Traditions  exist  of  the  Indians  having  planted  on  the  penin- 
sula, clearing  away  the  wood,  as  is  their  custom,  by  burning. 
There  are  old  houses  now  standing  at  the  North  End,  the  tim- 
bers of  which,  some  of  them  a  foot  square,  are  said  to  have  been 
cut  near  Copp's  Hill. 

Water  was  abundant  and  good.  Besides  the  spring  or 
springs  near  Blackstone's  house,  mention  is  made  in  the  early 
records  of  the  "  great  spring "  in  what  is  now  Spring  Lane. 
The  latter  was  filled  up,  but  people  now  living  have  seen  it 
bubbling  out  of  the  ground  after  heavy  spring  rains.  Opinions 
are  divided  as  to  which  spring  Blackstone  had  reference,  when 
he  invited  the  thirsty  Charlestown  company  to  Shawmut,  but 
the  fact  of  Governor  Winthrop  having  located  by  the  side  of 
the  "  great  spring,"  and  Isaac  Johnson  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity, are  significant.  Other  springs  existed,  or  were  found  in 
course  of  time  on  the  Neck  and  elsewhere. 

The  settlement  of  Boston  opens  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the 


INTRODUCTION. 


11 


First,  and  the  dress,  as  well  as  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
people  bear  the  impress  of  that  time,  with  the  distinction,  that 
the  religious  sentiments  of  the  settlers  entered  largely  into  both 
questions.  The  short  cloak,  doublet,  and  silk  stockings  were 
worn  by  people  of  condition,  but  the  colors  were  subdued  and 
sober,  and  the  rapier,  which  King  Charles's  gallants  were  so 
ready  to  draw,  was  not  much  worn  abroad,  except  on  state 
occasions.  Some,  like  Winthrop,  wore  the  stiff,  plaited  ruff, 
containing  a  furlong  of  linen,  and  making  the  modern  beholder 
sympathize  with  the  pillory  the  unfor- 
tunate head  is  placed  in,  while  others 
wore  the  broad  falling  collar  in  which 
we  always  see  the  great  Protector.  High- 
crowned  felt  hats  were  worn  out  of  doors, 
while  the  velvet  skull-cap  was  the  favor- 
ite headdress  within. 

Myles  Standish,  whom  we  single  out 
as  a  type  of  the  Puritan  soldier  of  those 
days,  is  described  by  Longfellow  as  "  clad 
in  doublet  and  hose,  with  boots  of  Cor-  is 
dovan  leather " ;  glancing  complacently  pgps 
at  his  arms  on  the  wall,  "cutlass  and 
corslet  of  steel,  and  his  trusty  sword  of 
Damascus,"   with  its  curved   point  and  cavalier. 

Arabic  inscription.  The  manner  of  wearing  the  hair  became 
very  early  an  apple  of  discord.  Those  of  the  straitest  sect,  and 
it  may  be  of  the  straightest  hair,  cut  their  locks  in  the  short 
fashion  of  the  roundheads  ;  while  others,  to  whom  nature  had, 
perhaps,  been  more  lavish  in  this  respect,  wore  their  hair  long. 
The  wearing  of  veils  by  ladies  when  abroad  was  the  subject 
of  a  crusade  by  Rev.  John  Cotton,  though  championed  by 
Endicott. 

In  1 750  cocked-hats,  wigs,  and  red  cloaks  were  usually 
worn  by  gentlemen.  Except  among  military  men,  boots  were, 
rarely  seen.  In  winter,  round  coats  were  worn,  made  stiff  with 
buckram,  and  coming  down  to  the  knees  in  front.  Boys  wore 
wigs  and  cocked-hats  until  about  1790.  Powder  was  worn  by 
gentlemen  until  after  1800. 


12  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

The  toilets  of  ladies  were  elaborate,  especially  the  hair,  which 
was  arranged  on  crape  cushions  so  as  to  stand  up  high.  Some- 
times ladies  were  dressed  the  day  before  a  party,  and  slept  in 
easy-chairs  to  keep  their  hair  in  condition.  Hoops  were  indis- 
pensable in  full  dress  until  after  1700.  The  usual  dinner  hour 
was  two  o'clock.  Drinking  punch  in  the  forenoon,  in  public 
houses,  was  the  common  practice.  "Wine  was  little  used,  con- 
vivial parties  drinking  punch  or  toddy. 

The  bearing  of  the  townspeople  in  public  was  grave  and 
austere.  How  coidd  it  be  otherwise  under  the  operation  of 
such  ordinances  as  the  following.  "  ]So  strangers  were  permitted 
to  live  within  the  town  without  giving  bonds  to  save  the  town 
harmless  from  all  damage  and  charge  for  entertaining  them." 
"  For  galloping  through  the  streets,  except  upon  days  of  mili- 
tary .exercise  or  any  extraordinary  case  require,"  was  two 
shillings  fine.  Football  was  prohibited  in  the  streets.  "  Xo 
person  shall  take  any  tobacco  publicly,  under  penalty  of  one 
shilling."  "  For  entertaining  foreigners,"  or  receiving  "  in- 
mates, servants,  or  journeymen  coming  for  help  in  physic  or 
surgery,  without  leave  of  the  selectmen,"  was  twenty  shillings 
fine  a  week.  The  selectmen  had  authority,  under  the  colony, 
to  order  parents  to  bind  their  children  as  apprentices,  or  put 
them  out  to  service,  and,  if  they  refused,  the  town  took  the 
children  from  the  charge  of  the  parents. 

Sobriety  was  strictly  inculcated,  though  the  sale  of  liquors 
was  licensed.  It  is  on  record  that,  September  15,  1641,  there 
was  a  training  of  twelve  hundred  men  at  Boston  for  two  days, 
but  no  one  drunk,  nor  an  oath  sworn.  Officers  were  appointed, 
with  long  wands,  to  correct  the  inattentive  or  slumbering  at 
church.  To  be  absent  from  meeting  was  criminal,  while  to 
speak  ill  of  the  minister  was  to  incur  severe  punishment.  An 
instance  is  mentioned  of  a  man  being  fined  for  kissing  his  wife 
in  his  own  grounds ;  and  do  not  the  following  instructions  to 
the  watch  smack  strongly  of  Dogberry's  famous  charge  1  The 
number  being  eight,  they  are  "  to  walk  two  by  two  together ; 
a  youth  joined  with  an  older  and  more  sober  person."  "  If 
after  ten  o'clock  they  see  lights,  to  inquire  if  there  be  warrant- 


INTRODUCTION.  lo 

able  cause  ;  and  if  they  hear  any  noise  or  disorder,  wisely  to 
demand  the  reason  ;  if  they  are  dancing  and  singing  vainly,  to 
admonish  them  to  cease ;  if  they  do  not  discontinue,  after 
moderate  admonition,  then  the  constable  to  take  their  names 
and  acquaint  the  authorities  therewith."  "If  they  find  young 
men  and  maidens,  not  of  known  fidelity,  walking  after  ten 
o'clock,  modestly  to  demand  the  cause ;  and  if  they  appear 
ill-minded,  to  watch  them  narrowly,  command  them  to  go  to 
their  lodgings,  and  if  they  refuse,  then  to  secure  them  till 
morning." 

Negro  slavery  appears  in  Boston  as  early  as  1G38,  when  at 
least  three  were  held  by  Maverick  on  Noddle's  Island.  In 
this  year  the  ship  Desire  brought  negroes  here  from  the  West 
Indies.  In  1680,  according  to  Judge  Sewall,  there  were  not 
above  two  hundred  African  slaves  in  the  colony.  An  effort 
is  on  record  in  1702  to  put  a  stop  to  negroes  being  slaves, 
and  to  encourage  the  use  of  Avhite  servants,  the  representa- 
tives of  the  town  being  instructed  to  this  purpose.  Slavery 
seems,  however,  to  have  steadily  increased  in  the  colony,  the 
traffic  proving  profitable,  until  at  length  it  was  as  common  to 
see  negroes  offered  for  sale  in  the  public  prints,  as  it  ever  was 
in  the  Southern  colonies.  In  1767  the  town  again  moved, 
through  its  representatives  for  the  abolition  of  slavery,  to  no 
effect.  A  Tory  writer  asserts  that  there  were  at  this  time 
two  thousand  slaves  in  Boston.  During  the  troubles  of  1768 
the  British  officers  were  charged  with  inciting  the  slaves  to 
insurrection,  and  blacks  were  held  in  servitude  until  after  the 
Revolution. 

But  this  was  not  all.  It  is  but  little  known  that  white 
slavery  was  tolerated  in  the  colony,  and  that  the  miserable 
dependents  of  feudal  power  were  sold  into  servitude  in  England 
and  transported  to  this  country.  Prisoners  of  war  wen-  thus 
disposed  of  under  the  great  Cromwell,  some  of  the  captives  of 
Dunbar  having  been  shipped  over  seas  to  America.  A  si  up- 
load of  Scotch  prisoners  was  consigned  1651  to  Thomas  Kem- 
ble  of  Charlestown,  the  same  who  was  afterwards  resident  of 
Boston.     They  were  generally  sold  for  a  specific  term  of  ser- 


14  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

vice,  and  used  chiefly  as  farm  laborers.  Many  were  sent  to 
North  Carolina,  and  indeed  but  few  of  the  colonies'were  with- 
out them. 

Among  the  early  customs  was  that  of  the  watchmen  crying 
the  time  of  night  and  giving  an  account  of  the  weather  as  they 
went  their  rounds,  a  practice  which  prevailed  for  a  hundred 
years.  The  British  sentinels  later  gave  the  cry  of  "  All 's  well ! " 
as  they  paced  their  beats.  The  ringing  of  the  nine-o'clock  bell 
was  first  ordered  in  1649.  The  watchman's  rattle  was  intro- 
duced about  the  time  Boston  became  a  city. 

The  government  of  the  town  was  vested  in  nine  selectmen, 
and  is  first  found  on  the  records,  November,  1643  ;  but  not  until 
November  29,  1645,  is  the  official  statement  recorded  that  John 
Winthrop  and  nine  others  were  chosen  selectmen.  This  con- 
tinued to  be  the  form  of  government  until  the  city  was  incor- 
porated, Feburary  23,  1822.  The  first  city  government  was 
organized  on  the  first  of  May  following,  and  John  Phillips  was 
the  first,  Josiah  Quincy  the  second,  and  Harrison  Gray  Otis 
the  third  mayor.  Steps  were  taken  as  early  as  1708  to  petition 
the  General  Court  to  have  the  town  incorporated  into  a  city  or 
borough,  and  again  in  1784,  but  without  success. 

In  1632  the  Colonial  legislature  declared  it  to  be  "  the  fittest 
place  for  public  meetings  of  any  place  in  the  Bay,"  since  which 
time  it  has  remained  the  capital  of  Massachusetts.  Boston  at 
first  included  within  its  government  the  islands  of  the  harbor,  — 
Muddy  Biver  (Brookline),  Winnisimet  (Chelsea),  Mount  AVol- 
laston  (Braintree),  Randolph,  and  Quincy.  She  is  now  striving 
to  recover  portions  of  her  ancient  territory. 

For  a  long  time  the  allotment  of  lands  was  the  principal 
business  of  the  town  officers.  In  the  limits  of  the  peninsula 
the  rule  was,  "  two  acres  to  plant  on,  and  for  every  able  youth 
one  acre  within  the  neck  and  Noddle's  Island  "  (East  Boston). 
In  1635  it  was  agreed,  "  no  new  allotments  should  be  granted 
unto  any  new-comer,  but  such  as  may  be  likely  to  be  received 
members  of  the  congregation."  The  town  regulated  the  price 
of  cattle,  commodities,  victuals,  and  the  wages  of  laborers,  and 
none  other  were  to  be  given  or  taken. 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

The  spirit  of  intolerance  which  the  fathers  of  Boston  exhib- 
ited towards  the  Quakers,  Anabaptists,  Episcopalians,  and 
other  sects  illustrates  their  view  of  religious  liberty.  Well 
did  Dry  den  say  :  — 

"  Of  all  the  tyrannies  on  human  kind, 
The  worst  is  that  which  persecutes  the  mind  ; 
Let  us  hut  weigh  at  what  offence  we  strike, 
'T  is  hut  because  we  cannot  think  alike  ; 
In  punishing  of  this  we  overthrow 
The  laws  of  nations,  and  of  nature  too." 

It  was  an  offence  to  harbor  a  Quaker  ;  to  attend  a  Quaker 
meeting  was  a  fine  of  ten  shillings,  to  preach,  £  5.  When  the 
Baptists  first  attempted  to  enter  their  meeting-house  in  Still- 
man  Street,  they  found  the  doors  nailed  up,  and  when  they 
proceeded  to  worship  in  the  open  air,  they  were  arrested  and 
imprisoned.  No  one  could  be  found  to  sell  land  for  an  Episco- 
pal church,  nor  could  they  find  a  place  to  hold  services  in  until 
Andros  obtained  the  Old  South  for  them  by  force.  The  crimi- 
nal law  decreed  banishment  to  such  as  broached  or  maintained 
"  damnable  heresies,"  by  which  was  meant  such  as  did  not 
agree  with  the  views  of  the  congregation. 

The  excessive  severity  of  the  following  deserves  notice. 
"  Any  one  denying  the  Scripture  to  be  the  word  of  God  should 
pay  not  exceeding  £  50  to  be  severely  whipped,  not  exceeding 
forty  strokes,  unless  he  publicly  recants,  in  which  case  he  shall 
not  pay  above  £10,  or  be  whipped  in  case  he  pay  not  the  fine." 
The  repetition  of  this  offence  was  to  be  punished  by  banish- 
ment or  death,  as  the  court  might  determine.  'T  is  death 
for  any  child  of  sound  understanding  to  curse  or  strike  his 
parents,  unless  in  his  own  defence." 

There  is  a  grim  humor  in  the  following  decisions.  In  1G10 
one  Edward  Palmer,  for  asking  an  excessive  price  for  a  pair  of 
stocks,  which  he  was  hired  to  frame,  had  the  privilege,  of  sit- 
ting an  hour  in  them  himself.  "  Captain  Stone  is  sentenced 
to  pay  £  100,  and  prohibited  coming  within  the  patent  with- 
out the  governor's  leave,  upon  pain  of  death,  fur  calling  Mr. 
Ludlow  (a  magistrate)  a  "  Justass."  We  infer  the  punishment 
must  have  been  inflicted  more  for  the  joke  than  the  offence. 


1G  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

"  Catherine,  wife  of  William  Cornish,  was  found  suspicious  of  in- 
continency,  and  seriously  admonished  to  take  heed."  ■  "  Sergeant 
Perkins  ordered  to  carry  forty  turfs  to  the  fort  for  being  drunk." 
According  to  Neal,  the  principal  festival  days  were  that  of 
the  annual  election  of  magistrates  at  Boston,  and  Commence- 
ment at  Cambridge.  Business  was  then  laid  aside,  and  the 
people  were  as  cheerful  among  their  friends  and  neighbors  as 
the  English  are  at  Christmas. 

"  They  have  a  greater  veneration  for  the  evening  of  Saturday  than 
for  that  of  the  Lord's  Day  itself  ;  so  that  all  business  is  laid  aside 
by  sunset  or  six  o'clock  on  Saturday  night.  The  Sabbath  itself  is 
kept  with  great  strictness  ;  nobody  being  to  be  seen  in  the  streets 
in  time  of  Divine  service,  except  the  constables,  who  are  appointed 
to  search  all  public  houses  ;  but  in  the  evening  they  allow  them- 
selves great  liberty  and  freedom." 

This  custom  has  prevailed  up  to  a  comparatively  late  period. 

In  those  days  the  pulpit  took  the  lead  in  matters  temporal 
as  well  as  of  theology.  Public  questions  were  discussed  in 
the  pulpit,  and  news  from  a  distance,  of  moment  to  the  col- 
ony, was  disseminated  through  it ;  the  first  newspaper  was  not 
attempted  in  Boston  until  1690,  and  then  only  a  single 
number  was  published.  The  whole  field  was  open  to  the 
preacher,  who  might  either  confine  himself  to  doctrinal  points 
or  preach  a  crusade  against  the  savages.  The  attire  of  the 
ladies,  the  fashion  of  the  hair,  the  drinking  of  healths,  after- 
wards abolished  by  law,  were  all  within  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  teacher  of  the  people ;  the  constituted  authorities  might 
make  the  laws,  but  the  minister  expounded  them.  The  official 
proclamations  were  then,  as  now,  affixed  to  the  meeting-house 
door,  which  thus  stood  to  the  community  as  a  vehicle  of  public 
intelligence. 

Many  intelligent  travellers,  both  English  and  French,  have 
recorded  their  impressions  of  Boston.  "Wood,  who  is  accounted 
the  earliest  of  these  writers,  says  :  — 

"  This  harbor  is  made  by  a  great  company  of  islands,  whose  high 
cliffs  shoulder  out  the  boisterous  seas  ;  yet  may  easily  deceive  any 
unskilful  pilot,  presenting  many  fair  openings  and  broad  soimda 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

which  afford  too  shallow  water  for  ships,  though  navigable  for  boats 
and  pinnaces.  It  is  a  safe  and  pleasant  harbor  within,  having  but 
one  common  and  safe  entrance,  and  that  not  very  broad,  there 
scarce  being  room  for  three  ships  to  come  in  board  and  board  at  a 
time  ;  but  being  once  in,  there  is  room  for  the  anchorage  of  five 
hundred  ships." 

"  Boston  is  two  miles  N.  E.  of  Roxbury.  His  situation  is  very 
pleasant,  being  a  peninsula  hemmed  in  on  the  south  side  by  the 
bay  of  Roxbury,  and  on  the  north  side  with  Charles  River,  the 
marshes  on  the  back  side  being  not  half  a  quarter  of  a  mile  over  ; 
so  that  a  little  fencing  will  secure  their  cattle  from  the  wolves  ;  it 
being  a  neck,  and  bare  of  wood,  they  are  not  troubled  with  these 
great  annoyances,  wolves,  rattlesnakes,  and  mosquitoes.  This  neck 
of  land  is  not  above  four  miles  in  compass,  in  form  almost  square, 
having  on  the  south  side  a  great  broad  hill,  whereon  is  planted  a  fort 
which  can  command  any  ship  as  she  sails  into  the  harbor.*  On  the 
north  side  is  another  hill  equal  in  bigness,  whereon  stands  a  wind- 
mill.t  To  the  northwest  is  a  high  mountain,  with  three  little  rising 
hills  on  the  top  of  it,  wherefore  it  is  called  the  Tramount. %  This  town, 
although  it  be  neither  the  greatest  nor  the  richest,  yet  is  the  most 
noted  and  frequented,  being  the  centre  of  the  plantations  where  the 
monthly  courts  are  kept." 

John  Jossleyn  arrived  at  Boston  July,  1G63.    He  says  :  — 

"  It  is  in  longitude  315  degrees,  and  42  degrees  30  minutes  of 
north  latitude.  The  buildings  are  handsome,  joining  one  to  the 
other  as  in  London,  with  many  large  streets,  most  of  them  paved 
with  pebble  ;  in  the  high  street,  toward  the  Common,  there  are  fair 
buildings,  some  of  stone  ;  the  town  is  not  divided  into  parishes,  yet 
they  have  three  fair  meetingdiouses." 

Edward  Johnson  says  :  — 

"  The  form  of  this  town  is  like  a  heart,  naturally  situated  for  forti- 
fications, having  two  hills  on  the  frontier  part  thereof  next  the  sea, 
the  one  well  fortified  on  the  superficies  thereof,  with  store  of  great 
artillery  well  mounted.  The  other  hath  a  very  strong  battery  built 
of  whole  timber,  and  fdled  with  earth  ;  betwixt  these  two  strong 
arms  lies  a  cove  or  bay,  on  which  the  chief  part  of  this  town  is 
built,  overtopped  with  a  third  hill  ;  all  these,  like  overtopping 
towers,  keep  a  constant  watch  to  see  the  approach  of  foreign 
dangers,  being  furnished  with  a  beacon  and  loud  babbling  guns  to 

*  Fort  Hill.  f  Copp's  Hill.  Beacon  Hill. 

ij 


18  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

give  notice  to  all  the  sister  towns.  The  chief  edifice  of  this  city -like 
town  is  crowded  on  the  sea-hanks,  and  wharfed  out  with  great  labor 
and  cost  ;  the  buildings  beautiful  and  large,  some  fairly  set  forth 
with  brick,  tile,  stone,  and  slate,  and  orderly  placed  with  seemly 
streets,  whose  continual  enlargement  presageth  some  sumptuous  city." 

M.  l'Abbe  Robin,  who  accompanied  the  army  of  Count  Ro- 
chambeau,  published  a  small  work  in  1781,  in  which  a  good 
description  of  Boston  is  given.     Says  M.  l'Abbe  :  — 

"  The  high,  regular  buildings,  intermingled  with  steeples,  appeared 
to  us  more  like  a  long-established  town  of  the  Continent  than  a 
recent  colony.  A  fine  mole,  or  pier,  projects  into  the  harbor  about 
two  thousand  feet,  and  shops  and  warehouses  line  its  whole  length. 
It  communicates  at  right  angles  with  the  principal  street  of  the 
town,  which  is  long  and  wide,  curving  round  towards  the  water  ; 
on  this  street  are  many  fine  houses  of  two  and  three  stories.  The 
appearance  of  the  buildings  seems  strange  to  European  eyes  ;  being 
built  entirely  of  wood,  they  have  not  the  dull  and  heavy  appear- 
ance which  belongs  to  those  of  our  continental  cities  ;  they  are  regu- 
lar and  well-lighted,  with  frames  well  joined,  and  the  outside  cov- 
ered with  slight,  thinly  planed  boards,  overlapping  each  other  some- 
what like  the  tiles  upon  our  roofs.  The  exterior  is  painted  generally 
of  a  grayish  color,  which  gives  an  agreeable  aspect  to  the  view." 

M.  l'Abbe  states  that  codfish  was  the  principal  article  of 
commerce  with  the  Bostonians  ;  that  they  preferred  Maderia, 
Malaga,  or  Oporto  to  French  wines,  but  their  ordinary  beverage 
was  rum,  distilled  from  molasses.  Some  credit  attaches  to  this 
statement,  when  we  remember  that  Boston  had  half  a  dozen 
still-houses  in  1722,  and  a  score  when  the  Abbe  was  writing. 
"  Piety,"  continues  the  acute  Frenchman,  "  is  not  the  only 
motive  which  brings  a  crowd  of  ladies  into  their  church. 
They  show  themselves  there  clothed  in  silk,  and  sometimes 
decked  with  superb  feathers.  Their  hair  is  raised  upon  sup- 
ports, in  imitation  of  those  worn  by  the  French  ladies  some 
years  since.  They  have  less  grace,  less  freedom,  than  the 
French  ladies,  but  more  dignity." 

"  Their  slioon  of  velvet,  and  their  imiilis  ! 
In  kirk  they  are  not  content  of  stuilis, 
The  sermon  when  they  sit  to  heir, 
But  carries  cusheons  like  vain  fulis  ; 
And  all  for  newfangleness  of  geir." 


INTRODUCTION.  19 

The  Abbe,  alluding  to  the  strict  observance  of  the  Sabbath, 
naively  says  :  "  A  countryman  of  mine,  lodging  at  the  same 
inn  with  me,  took  it  into  his  head  one  Sunday  to  play  a  little 
upon  his  flute  ;  but  the  neighborhood  became  so  incensed  that 
our  landlord  was  obliged  to  acquaint  him  of  their  uneasiness." 
Another  French  writer  remarked  of  Newport,  which  he  thought 
Boston  resembled,  "  This  is  the  only  place  I  ever  visited  where 
they  build  old  houses."  M.  le  Compte  Segur  and  the  Mar- 
quis Chastellux  have  written  about  Boston,  but  there  is  little 
to  add  to  what  is  already  given. 

The  first  volume  of  the  Town  Records  begins  September, 
1634,  and  the  first  entries  are  said  to  be  in  the  handwriting  of 
Governor  Winthrop.  An  unknown  number  of  leaves  have  been 
torn  out  or  destroyed,  and,  as  the  first  business  of  the  town 
was  the  allotment  of  land  to  the  inhabitants,  the  loss  is  ir- 
reparable, and  has  proved  such  to  those  who  have  had  occasion 
to  trace  the  titles  of  property.  The  city  authorities  should  see 
that  this  volume,  the  sole  repository  of  many  facts  in  the  early 
history  of  Boston,  should  be  printed  at  once,  and  thus  pre- 
served from  destruction.  Several  later  volumes  of  the  records 
are  missing,  and  for  many  years,  while  William  Cooper  was 
Town  Clerk,  no  record  exists  of  the  births  or  deaths.  A  man- 
uscript volume  called  the  "  Book  of  Possessions,"  is  in  the 
City  Clerk's  office,  compiled,  it  is  thought,  as  early  as  1634,  by 
order  of  the  General  Court.  There  are  two  hundred  and  forty- 
five  names  in  this  "  Doomsday  Book,"  as  it  has  been  termed, 
but  all  of  them  were  not  original  settlers. 

The  general  growth  and  progress  of  the  New  England 
metropolis  has  been  steady  and  remarkable.  The  early  settlers 
having  built  wholly  of  wood,  were  not  long  exempt  from  de- 
structive fires.  In  1654  occurred  what  was  known  as  "the 
great  fire,"  but  its  locality  is  not  given.  This  was  succeeded 
by  another  in  1676,  at  the  North  End,  which  consumed  forty- 
five  dwellings,  the  North  Church,  and  several  warehouses, 
within  the  space  enclosed  by  Richmond,  Hanover,  ami  Clark 
Streets.  After  this  fire  a  fire-engine  was  imported  from  Eng- 
land,  but  another  great  fire  in   1678,  near  the   Town   Dock, 


20  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

destroyed  eighty  dwelling-houses  and  seventy  warehouses,  en- 
tailing a  loss i  of  £  200,000. 

With  extraordinary  energy  these  losses  were  repaired,  and 
the  townspeople,  admonished  by  their  disasters,  built  their 
houses  with  more  regard  to  safety,  —  many  building  of  stone 
and  brick,  —  while  more  efficient  means  were  obtained  for  con- 
trolling the  devouring  element.  The  town  was  divided  into 
four  quarters,  patroled  by  a  watch  detailed  from  the  foot-com- 
panies. Six  hand-engines,  four  barrels  of  powder,  and  two 
crooks  were  assigned  each  quarter.  This  appears  to  have  been 
the  beginning  of  a  fire  department. 

The  first  fire-engine  made  in  Boston  was  built  by  David 
"Wheeler,  a  blacksmith  in  Newbury,  now  Wasliington  Street. 
It  was  tried  at  a  fire  August  21,  1765,  and  found  to  perform 
extremely  well. 

The  data  from  which  to  estimate  the  population  of  the  town 
in  the  first  decade  of  its  settlement  is  very  meagre.  In  1639 
the  Bay  mustered  a  thousand  soldiers  in  Boston,  but  they 
were  of  course  drawn  from  all  the  towns.  For  the  first  seventy 
years  after  its  settlement  Boston  did  not  probably  contain  over 
seven  thousand  people.  In  1717  it  was  reckoned  at  only 
twelve  thousand.  A  hundred  years  after  the  settlement  it  con- 
tained fifteen  thousand,  with  seventeen  hundred  dwellings  ;  in 
1752  there  were  seventeen  thousand  five  hundred,  —  a  decrease 
of  five  hundred  in  the  previous  ten  years,  accounted  for  by 
the  wars  with  the  Indians  and  French,  in  which  Boston  sus- 
tained severe  losses.  In  1765  the  number  of  people  had 
fallen  below  sixteen  thousand,  with  sixteen  hundred  and 
seventy-six  houses.  During  the  siege  in  1775-76  the  town 
was  nearly  depopidated,  but  few  remaining  who  could  get 
away.  An  enumeration  made  in  July,  1775,  before  the  last 
permission  was  given  to  leave  the  town,  showed  only  six  thou- 
sand five  hundred  and  seventy-three  inhabitants,  the  troops 
with  their  women  and  children  numbering  thirteen  thousand 
six  hundred.  At  the  peace  of  1783  there  were  only  about 
twelve  thousand  inhabitants.  By  the  first  census  of  1791  the 
number  of  people  was  a  little  over  eighteen  thousand,  with 
two  thousand  three  hundred  and  seventy-six  houses. 


INTRODUCTION.  21 

From  this  period  the  increase  has  been  steady  and  rapid. 
In  1800  there  were  twenty-five  thousand;  1820,  forty-three 
thousand  ;  1840,  eighty-five  thousand  ;  18G0,  one  hundred  and 
seventy -seven  thousand,  and  in  1870,  the  latest  census,  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 

The  division  of  the  town  into  eight  wards  is  mentioned  as 
early  as  the  great  fire  of  1678  -  79.  In  1715  these  wards  were 
named  North,  Fleet,  Bridge,  Creek,  King's,  Change,  Pond,  and 
South.  In  1735  the  number  of  wards  was  increased  to- twelve, 
corresponding  with  the  number  of  companies  in  the  Boston 
regiment,  one  of  which  was  attached  to  each  ward  for  service 
at  fires.  Besides  the  military  there  was  also  a  civil  division, 
an  overseer  of  the  poor,  a  fireward,  a  constable,  and  a  scavenger, 
belonging  to  each  ward.  In  1792  the  number  of  military 
wards  was  nine,  the  regiment  having  been  reduced  to  that  num- 
ber of  companies ;  the  civil  division  continued  to  be  twelve. 
The  first  four  of  these  wards,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  fifth, 
were  in  the  North  End ;  the  seventh  was  at  the  West  End ; 
while  the  rest,  with  a  part  of  the  fifth,  were  in  the  South  End, 
as  it  was  then  bounded.  The  present  number  is  sixteen,  just 
double  the  original  number. 

The  paving  of  the  public  thoroughfares  seems  to  have  begun 
at  a  very  early  period.  Jossleyn,  describing  Boston  in  1663, 
says  most  of  the  streets  "  are  paved  with  pebble,"  meaning  the 
smooth  round  stones  from  the  beach.  It  was  not  the  practice 
at  first  to  pave  the  whole  width  of  a  street,  but  only  a  strip  in 
the  middle  ;  the  Neck  was  so  paved.  In  the  same  manner  the 
sidewalks  were  paved  with  cobble-stones,  bricks,  or  flags,  of 
only  width  enough  for  a  single  passenger ;  in  some  instances, 
where  flag-stones  were  used,  the  remaining  space  was  rilled  with 
cobble-stones.1  It  is  probable  that  the  first  paving  was  done  in 
a  fragmentary  way  before  1700,  but  in  1703-04  the  town  voted 
.£100  for  this  purpose,  "as  the  selectmen  shall  judge  most 
needful,  having  particular  regard  to  the  highway  nigh  < >  1  *  1  Mrs. 
Stoddard's  house."  An  order  for  paving  42  rods  of  Orange 
Street  was  made  in  1715.  From  this  time  sums  were  regu- 
larly voted, and  the  foundation  laid  for  the  most  cleanly  city  in 
America. 


22  LANDMAKKS   OF  BOSTON. 

As  to  sidewalks,  a  lady  who  came  to  Boston  in  1795  from 
New  York,  and  was  muck  struck  with  the  quaint  appearance 
of  the  town,  writes  :  — 

"  There  were  no  brick  sidewalks,  except  in  a  part  of  the  Main 
Street  (Washington)  near  the  Old  South,  then  called  Cornhill. 
The  streets  were  paved  with  pebbles  ;  and,  except  when  driven  on 
one  side  by  carts  and  carriages,  every  one  walked  in  the  middle 
of  the  street,  where  the  pavement  was  the  smoothest."  * 

It  is  not  believed  that  there  was  a  sidewalk  in  Boston  until 
after  the  Revolution.  At  this  time  State  Street  was  without 
any,  the  pavement  reaching  across  the  street  from  house  to 
house. 

It  is  probable  that  those  inhabitants  whose  business  or 
pleasure  took  them  from  home  after  dark  must  for  a  long  time 
have  lighted  their  own  way  through  the  devious  lanes  and  by- 
ways of  the  town.  We  can  imagine  the  feelings  of  a  pair  of 
fond  lovers  who,  taking  an  evening  stroll,  are  bid  by  the  cap- 
tain of  the  watch  to  "  Stand  !  "  while  he  throws  the  rays  of  a 
dark  lantern  upon  the  faces  of  the  shrinking  swain  and  his  mis- 
tress. Yet,  although  streetdamps  were  said  to  have  been  used 
as  early  as  1774,  until  1792  there  seems  to  have  been  no  action 
on  the  town's  part  towards  lighting  the  streets,  when  we  read 
thai  the  "gentlemen  selectmen  propose  to  light  the  town," 
early  in  January  of  that  year,  "  and  to  continue  the  same  until 
the  sum  subscribed  is  expended."  Those  gentlemen  that  pro- 
posed to  furnish  lamps  were  requested  to  have  them  "  fixed  " 
by  a  certain  day,  so  that  the  lamplighter  may  have  time  to 
prepare  them  for  lighting.  To  the  public  spirit  of  the  citizens, 
then,  is  due  the  first  shedding  of  light  upon  the  gloomy  ways 
of  the  town.  Gas  was  not  used  to  illuminate  the  streets  until 
1834,  though  the  works  at  Copp's  Hill  were  erected  in  1828. 
In  December  of  that  year  gas  was  first  used  in  the  city. 

The  springs  which  supplied  the  older  inhabitants  gave 
place  to  wells,  and  these  in  their  turn  gave  way  to  the  de- 
mand for  an  abundant  supply  of  pure  water  for  the  whole  town. 

*  Quiucy  Memoir. 


INTRODUCTION.  23 

Wells  had  to  be  sunk  a  depth  varying  from  fifteen  feet  on  the 
low  ground  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  on  the  elevated 
portions,  and  the  water  was  usually  brackish  and  more  or  less 
impregnated  with  salt.  Water  was  therefore  introduced  from 
Jamaica  Pond,  in  West  Eoxbury,  by  a  company  incorporated  in 
1795.  The  pipes  used  were  logs,  of  which  about  forty  miles 
were  laid.  The  trenches  were  only  three  to  three  and  a  half 
feet  in  depth,  which  did  not  prevent  freezing  in  severe  weather, 
while  the  smallness  of  the  pipe,  —  four-inch  mains,  —  rendered 
the  supply  limited. 

Under  the  administration  of  Mayor  Quincy  the  subject  of 
a  new  supply  of  water  was  agitated.  In  1825  a  great  tire 
occurred  in  Kilby  Street,  destroying  fifty  stores,  and  the  want 
of  water  as  a  means  for  the  subduing  of  fires  became  evident. 
Twenty  years  were  spent  in  controversy  before  action  was 
taken,  but  in  August,  1846,  ground  was  broken  at  Lake  Cochit- 
uate  by  John  Quincy  Adams  and  Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.  In  Octo- 
ber, 1848,  the  work  was  completed,  but  the  growth  of  Boston 
has  rendered  this  source  insufficient  in  less  than  twenty  years, 
and  the  waters  of  Sudbury  Eiver  are  to  be  made  tributary. 

Boston  has  enlarged  her  territory  by  the  annexation  of  Dor- 
chester Neck  (South  Boston),  in  1804  ;  Washington  Village  in 
1855  ;  Eoxbury,  in  1868  ;  and  Dorchester,  in  1870.  East  Bos- 
ton (Noddle's  Island),  though  forming  a  part  of  Boston  since 
1637,  had  neither  streets  nor  local  regulations  until  the  incor- 
poration of  the  East  Boston  Company ;  public  officers  first  set 
foot  upon  the  island  in  1833.  There  was  then  but  one  house 
in  the  whole  of  that  now  populous  ward,  comprising  six  hun- 
dred and  sixty  acres.  South  Boston,  when  annexed,  had  only 
ten  families  on  an  area  of  five  hundred  and  seventy  acres,  and 
but  nineteen  voters.  There  being  at  this  time  no  bridge,  the 
inhabitants  were  obliged  to  come  to  Boston  via  the  Neck. 
The  building  of  a  bridge  was  the  condition  of  annexation. 
South  Boston  was  taken  from  the  territory  of  Dorchester. 
Eoxbury,  itself  a  city,  brought  a  large  accesskm  to  Boston,  to 
which  it  had  long  been  joined  in  fact.  Dorchester,  settled  a 
few  months  earlier  than  Boston,  has  become  a  ward  of  tho 


24  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

metropolis.  These  two  towns  brought  an  increase  to  the  popu- 
lation of  about  forty  thousand,  and  a  territory  of  nearly  seven 
thousand  acres. 

Communication  between  Boston  and  the  surrounding  towns 
was  at  first  wholly  by  the  Neck.  The  people  of  Chelsea  thus 
had  a  circuit  of  at  least  a  dozen  miles,  and  a  day's  journey 
before  them,  to  go  to  town  and  return.  There  was  a  ferry  es- 
tablished at  Charlestown  and  Winnisimmet  (Chelsea)  as  early 
as  1G35,  — five  years  after  the  settlement  of  Boston.  We  find 
by  the  records  that  Thomas  Marshall  "  was  chosen  by  general! 
consent  for  ye  keeping  of  a  Ferry  from  ye  Mylne  Point  vnto 
Charlestown  and  Wynneseemitt,  for  a  single  p'son  sixpence,  and 
for  two,  sixpence  ;  and  for  every  one  above  ye  number  of  two, 
two  pence  apiece."  Ships'  boats  were  first  used,  then  scows, 
and  this  continued  to  be  the  only  means  of  transit  until  1786. 
Four  years  previous  to  this  the  Marquis  Chastellux  states  that 
he  was  one  hour  making  the  voyage  from  "Winnisimmet  in  a 
scow  filled  with  cattle,  sheep,  etc.  Seven  tacks  were  required 
to  bring  them  safely  to  land. 

A  bridge  to  Cambridge  was  agitated  as  long  ago  as  1739. 
The  obstruction  to  the  passage  of  ferry-boats  by  ice  was  a 
serious  inconvenience.  Charles  Biver  Bridge,  from  the  Old 
Ferry  landing  to  Charlestown,  was  the  first  constructed.  The 
first  pier  was  laid  on  the  14th  June,  1785,  and  the  bridge 
thrown  open  for  travel  in  little  more  than  a  year.  This  was 
considered  at  the  time  the  greatest  enterprise  ever  undertaken 
in  America,  and  its  successful  completion  was  celebrated  by  a 
public  procession,  consisting  of  both  branches  of  the  Legislature, 
the  proprietors  and  artisans  of  the  bridge,  military  and  civic  so- 
cieties. Salutes  were  fired  from  the  Castle,  Copp's  and  Breed's 
Hill.  This  was  only  eleven  years  after  the  battle  of  Bunker 
Hill.     Thomas  Bussell  was  first  president  of  the  corporation. 

West  Boston  Bridge,  to  Cambridge,  was  opened  in  November, 
1793.  Dover  Street,  or  Boston  South  Bridge,  was  next  opened 
in  the  summer  of  1805.  Cragie's,  or,  as  it  used  to  be  called, 
Canal  Bridge,  from  the  Middlesex  Canal,  was  next  completed 
in  August,  1809,  from  what  was  then  known  as  Barton's  Point, 


INTRODUCTION'. 


25 


on  the  Boston  side,  to  Leclimere's  Point  in  Cambridge.  By  a 
bridge  thrown  across  from  Leclimere's  Point  to  Charlestown, 
the  long  detour  around  Charlestown  Neck  was  avoided.  The 
Western  Avenue,  or  Mill  Dam,  as  it  was  long  called,  was 
opened  with  great  ceremony  July,  1821.  The  South  Boston 
Bridge,  from  what  was  respectively  Windmill  and  Wheeler's 
Point,  at  the  foot  of  Federal  Street,  to  South  Boston,  was  com- 
pleted in  1828,  and  shortened  the  journey  into  Boston,  by 
way  of  the  Neck,  about  a  mile.  Warren  Bridge  met  with 
great  opposition  from  the  proprietors  of  Charles  Eiver  Bridge, 
but  was  opened  as  a  public  highway 
December,  1828.  This  completes 
the  list  of  the  older  avenues  of  tra- 
vel to  the  mainland ;  but  we  have 
now  a  magnificent  iron  structure 
to  South  Boston,  recently  erected, 
while  the  numerous  railway  bridges 
spanning  the  river  enable  the  city 
to  stretch  its  Briareusdike  arms  in 
every  direction  for  traffic. 

Coaches  are  first  mentioned  as 
being  in  use  in  Boston  in  1668-69. 
Captain  Anthony  Howard  appears 
to  have  owned  one  in  1687,  for  he 
was  fined  twenty  shillings  that  year 
"  for  setting  a  coach diouse  two  feet 
into  yc  streete  at  ye  N.  End  of  ye  Towne."  *  In  1798  there 
were  98  chaises  and  47  coaches,  chariots,  phaetons,  &c.  in  all 
Boston.  In  October,  1631,  Governor  Winthrop  went  on  foot 
to  Lynn  and  Salem,  and  until  there  were  roads  it  is  obvious 
there  was  little  use  for  wheeled  vehicles,  even  for  such  as 
could  afford  them.  In  1750  there  were  only  a  few  carriages, 
and  these,  chariots  and  coaches.  Four-wheeled  chaises  were 
in  use  in  families  of  distinction.  The  first  public  coach  or 
hack  used  in  Boston  was  set  up  in  1712  by  Jonathan  Wardell, 
at  tbe  sign  of  the  Orange  Tree,  head  of  Hanover  Street.     One 


WINTHROP   FORDING   THE   KIVER. 


•1 


*  Town  Records. 


26  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

was  also  set  up  by  Adino  Paddock,  in  1702,  who  called  it  the 
"  Burling  Coach,"  from  its  London  prototype.  Eaddock  was 
a  coachmaker  by  trade ;  we  shall  have  occasion'  to  notice  him 
in  these  pages.  The  next  public  vehicle  was  a  small  post- 
chaise,  drawn  by  a  pair  of  gray  horses,  and  stood  at  the  head 
of  State  Street,  about  1790.  Gentlemen  and  ladies  who  at- 
tended balls  and  parties  in  those  times  had  to  walk,  unless 
they  could  get  a  cast  in  a  friend's  carriage. 

Coaches  for  public  conveyance  were  first  established  in  17G3, 
when  one  was  put  on  the  route  between  Boston  and  Ports- 
mouth, N.  H.  Bartholemew  Stavers  was  the  "  undertaker," 
and  his  head-quarters  were  at  the  sign  of  the  Lighthouse,  at  the 
North  End.  The  "  Portsmouth  Plying  Stage  Coach,"  as  he 
styled  his  carriage,  carried  six  inside  passengers,  each  paying 
thirteen  shillings  and  sixpence  sterling,  to  Portsmouth.  The 
stage  and  horses  were  kept  at  Charlestown,  to  save  the  trouble 
of  ferriage,  and  set  out  every  Friday  morning,  putting  up  at 
the  inns  along  the  road.  Peturning,  the  stage  left  Portsmouth 
every  Tuesday  morning.  Stavers  gave  notice  "that  as  this 
was  a  convenient  and  genteel  way  of  travelling,  and  greatly 
cheaper  than  hiring  carriages  or  horses,  he  hoped  ladies  and 
gentlemen  would  encourage  the  same."  *  A  stage  was  put  on 
the  route  to  Marblehead  in  1769,  by  Edward  Wade.  His  car- 
riage was  a  post-chaise,  suited  for  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  he 
himself  might  be  "  spoken  with  at  the  widow  Trefry's  in  Fish 
(Xorth)  Street." 

Railways  were  early  under  discussion  by  the  people  of 
Boston,  but  no  decisive  steps  were  taken  until  1825.  The  first 
road  chartered  in  the  State  was  the  Experiment  Railroad  at 
Quincy.  Next  came  the  Lowell,  incorporated  in  1830,  fol- 
lowed by  the  Worcester,  Providence,  and  others.  The  Lowell 
was  the  first  opened  for  public  travel,  in  June,  1835,  closely 
followed  by  the  Worcester  in  July  of  the  same  year  ;  the  Prov- 
idence was  also  opened  in  1835,  with  a  single  track.  The 
Maine  was  opened  from  Wilmington  to  Andover  in  1836  ;  to 
South  Berwick,  1843.     The  Eastern  comes  next,  in  1838,  in 

*  Drake,  p.  664. 


INTRODUCTION.  27 

which  year  it  was  opened  to  Salern.  George  Peabody  was  the 
first  president.  The  Old  Colony  began  operating  in  November, 
1845,  the  Fitchburg  in  1845,  and  the  Hartford  and  Erie  in 
1849,  under  the  name  of  the  Norfolk  County  Eoad.  It  is  a 
curious  fact,  that  every  one  of  the  eight  railway  stations  in 
Boston  stands  on  ground  reclaimed  from  the  sea. 

We  have  taken  the  reader  through  the  settlement,  physical 
features,  and  successive  phases  of  the  growth  of  the  Old  Town, 
and  now  that  we  are  about  to  commence  our  rambles  together, 
we  warn  him  to  be  prepared  for  changes  that  wdl  make  it  diffi- 
cult and  often  impossible  to  fix  localities  accurately.  For 
fifty  years  our  men  of  progress  have  been  pulling  down  the  old 
and  building  up  the  new  city.  Few  of  its  original  features  are 
left  except,  in  the  North  End. 


CHAPTER  I. 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood. 


History  of  the  Chapel.  —  Establishment  of  the  Church  of  England.  —  Chapel 
Burial-Ground.  —Boston  Athenaeum.  — Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences. — 
Historical  Society.  — The  Museum. — The  Old  Corner.  —  Royal  Custom 
House.  — Washington.  —  H.  G.  Otis.  — Daniel  Webster.  — Tremont  Street. 
—  Howard  Street.  —  Pemberton  Hill.  —  Endicott.  —  Captain  Southack.  — 
Theodore  Lyman,  Senior.  —  John  Cotton.  —  Sir  Henry  Vane.  —  Samuel 
Sewall.  —  Gardiner  Greene.  —  Earl  Percy.  —  Bellingham.  —  Faneuil.  — 
Phillips.  —  Davenport.  —  Oxenbridge.  —  Beacon  Street.  —  School  Street.  — 
Latin  School.  —Franklin  Statue.  —City  Hall.  —Otis.  —Warren.  —  Mas- 
carene.  — Cromwell's  Head.  —The  Old  Corner  Bookstore.  —  Anne  Hutchin- 
son. —  The  French  Church.  —  Catholic  Church.  —  Second  Universalist.  — 
Province  Street. — Chapman  Place. — James  Lovell. — Wendell. 

WE  choose  King's  Chapel  for  ottr  point  of  departure,  as 
well  from  its  central  position  as  from  the  fact  that 
its  vicinage  is  probably  the  oldest  ground  built  upon  in  Bos- 
ton, Blackstone's  lot  alone  excepted. 

The  exterior  of  King's  Chapel 
does  not  present  any  remarkable 
architectural  features.  It  has  an 
air  of  solidity  and  massiveness 
that  seems  to  bespeak  the  inten- 
tion of  its  builders  that  it  should 
remain  where  it  was  placed. 
This  purpose  is  likely  to  be  set 
at  naught  by  the  proposed  re- 
moval of  the  Chapel  northward- 
ly, to  widen  School  Street.  So 
improbable  an  idea  never  entered 
the  heads  of  the  founders  ;  but 
we  make  nothing  nowadays  of 
taking  up  blocks  of  brick  or  stone  bodily,  and  moving  them 
whither  we  list. 


GOVERNOR   SHIRLEY. 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood. 


29 


King's  Chapel  is  the  fifth  in  the  order  of  Boston  churches. 
The  architect  was  Peter  Harrison,  of  Newport,  ft.  I.,  and  the  plan 
embraced  a  steeple,  which  Mr.  Harrison  thought  essential  to  his 
general  design,  and  would  have  a  "  beautiful  effect."    For  want 


kind's  chapel  as  it  appears  in  1S72. 


of  funds,  however,  the  steeple  was  never  built.  Governor 
Shirley  laid  the  corner-stone  on  the  11th  of  August,  1749,  and 
after  giving  the  workmen  £  20  (old  tenor)  to  drink  his  health, 
went  into  the  old  church,  which  was  still  standing,  where  a 
service  appropriate  to  the  occasion  was  held  by  Rev.  Mr.  Cancr, 
the  rector. 

Mr.  Harrison  had  been  requested  to  present  drawings  with 
both  a  double  and  single  tier  of  windows.  Two  rows  were 
adopted,  the  lower  ones  giving  that  prince  of  punsters,  Mather 
Byles,  an  opportunity  of  saying  that  he  had  heard  of  the 
canons  of  the  church,  but  had  never  seen  the  portdioles  before. 

The  stone  for  the  chapel  came  from  Braintree,  and  was  taken 


30  LANDMAEKS   OF   BOSTON. 

from  the  surface  of  the  ground,  no  quarries  being  then  opened. 
The  rough  appearance  of  the  stone  is  due  to  the  limited  knowl- 
edge of  the  art  of  dressing  it  which  then  prevailed. 

Greenwood's  little  work  on  King's  Chapel  gives  the  follow- 
ing facts.  It  was  first  erected  of  wood  in  the  year  1G88,  en- 
larged in  1710,  and,  being  found  in  the  year  1741  in  a  state  of 
considerable  decay,  it  was  proposed  to  rebuild  it  of  stone.  A 
subscription  for  this  purpose  was  set  on  foot,  and  Peter  Faneuil 
(of  Faneuil  Hall  memory)  was  chosen  treasurer  of  the  building- 
fund.  The  building  was  to  be  of  stone,  and  was  to  cost 
£  25,000  (old  tenor).  It  was  not  to  be  commenced  untd 
£  10,000  were  subscribed. 

Among  the  first  subscribers  were  Governor  William  Shirley, 
Sir  Charles  Henry  Frankland,  and  Peter  Faneuil.  The  Gov- 
ernor gave  £100;  Sir  H.  Frankland,  £50;  Faneuil,  £200 
sterling.  Faneuil  died  in  1742,  and  the  matter  was  for  some 
time  laid  aside,  but  was  revived  by  Mr.  Caner  in  1747.  A 
new  subscription  was  drawn  up.  Governor  Shirley  increased 
his  gift  to  £200,  and  Sir  H.  Frankland  to  £150  sterling. 
For  the  subscription  of  Peter  Faneuil  the  society  was  obliged 
to  sue'  his  brother  Benjamin,  who  was  also  his  executor,  and 
recovered  it  after  a  vexatious  suit  at  law. 

The  new  chapel  was  built  so  as  to  enclose  the  old  church,  in 
which  services  continued  to  be  held,  in  spite  of  its  ruinous  con- 
dition, until  March,  1753,  when  the  society  was  obliged  to 
remove  to  Trinity.  The  congregation  having  applied  for  the 
use  of  the  Old  South  on  Christmas  day,  a  verbal  answer  was 
returned  granting  the  request  on  condition  "  that  the  house 
should  not  be  decorated  with  spruce,"  etc. 

Efforts  to  obtain  money  to  complete  the  chapel  were  made 
in  every  direction.  Among  others,  Captain  Thomas  Coram, 
founder  of  the  Foundling  Hospital  in  London,  who  had  re- 
sided in  this  country,  was  applied  to  by  a  gentleman  then  in 
London  ;  but  no  sooner  had  he  mentioned  the  object  of  his  visit 
than  he  was  obliged  to  listen  to  a  burst  of  passionate  reproaches 
for  some  alleged  slight  the  vestry  of  King's  Chapel  had  formerly 
put  upon  hkus     The  old  gentleman  finally  told  his  visitor,  with 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood. 


OLD    KINC  S   CHAPEL. 


an  oath,  "  that  if  the  twelve  Apostles  were  to  apply  to  hiin  in 
behalf  of  the  church,  he  would  persist  in  refusing  to  do  it." 

The  portico  was  not  completed  until  1789.  In  that  year 
General  Washington  was  in  Boston,  and  attended  an  oratorio 
in  the  chapel,  which  had  for  its  object  the  completion  of  the 
portico.  The  general  was 
dressed  in  a  black  velvet  suit, 
and  gave  live  guineas  towards 
this  purpose. 

The  old  building,  which 
gave  place  to  the  present  one, 
had  an  apology  fur  a  tower, 
on  the  top  of  which  was  a 
crown,  and  above  this  a  cock 
for  a  vane.  A  gallery  was 
added  after  the  enlargement 
in  1710,  and  the  pulpit  was 
on  the  north  side.  Opposite 
was  a  pew  for  the  governors,  and  near  it  another  for  officers 
of  the  British  army  and  navy.  In  the  west  gallery  was  the 
first  organ  ever  used  in  Boston,  given  to  the  society  by  Thomas 
Brattle.  A  bell  was  purchased  in  1689,  and  a  clock  was  do- 
nated in  1714  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  British  Society.  The 
Avails  and  pillars  were  hung  with  the  escutcheons  of  the  King, 
Sir  Edmund  Andros,  Governors  Dudley,  Shnte,  Burnet,  Bel- 
cher, and  Shirley,  and  formed  a  most  striking  contrast  with  the 
bare  walls  of  the  Puritan  churches  of  the  town.  In  the  pulpit, 
'according  to  the  custom  of  the  times,  was  an  hour-glass  to  mark 
the  length  of  the  sermons,  while  the  east  end  was  adorned  with 
an  altar-piece,  the  Ten  ( Jomniandments,  Lord's  Prayer,  etc.  The 
emblems  of  heraldry  have  disappeared.  It  was  the  usage  of  the 
church  to  place  the  royal  governors  at  the  head  of  the  vestry. 

As  you  enter  the  chapel,  at  your  left  hand  is  the  monument 
of  William  Vassail,  erected  by  Florentine  Vassall,  of  Jamaica,  in 
176G.  To  the  right  is  a  beautiful  monumental  tablet  dedicated 
to  the  memory  of  the  young  men  of  the  chapel  who  fell  in  the 
late  civil  war. 


32  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

On  the  south  side  are  mural  tahlets  to  "William  Sullivan,  John 
Lowell,  Thomas  Newton,  —  an  original  founder, — 'and  Frances 
Shirley,  wife  of  the  Governor.  Within  the  chancel  are  busts 
of  Greenwood  and  Freeman,  rectors,  and  of  their  successor  Dr. 
Peabody.  The  burial-ground  side  contains  tablets  to  Charles 
Apthorp  and  Samuel  Appleton.  Over  the  vestry  are  the  names 
of  Charles  Pelham  Curtis,  long  the  treasurer,  and  of  William 
Price,  a  patron  of  the  church.  These  are  about  the  only  monu- 
mental marbles  to  be  seen  in  our  city  churches,  though  others 
have  mural  tablets.  The  Vassal  monument,  a  beautiful  specimen 
of  the  art  in  the  last  century,  is  by  Tyler,  a  London  sculptor. 
These  add  interest  to  the  church,  and  reflect  in  a  modest  way 
the  glories  of  old  St.  Paul's  and  of  Westminster  Abbey. 

The  first  bell  was  cracked,  while  tolling  for  evening  service, 
May  8,  1814.  The  wits  seized  upon  the  accident  with  avidity, 
and  commemorated  it  in  the  following  effusion  (Paul  Revere  re- 
cast the  bell,  and  some  churchman  answered  the  innuendo)  :  — 

"  The  Chapel  church,  "  The  church  still  lives, 
Left  in  the  lurch,  The  priest  survives, 

Must  surely  fall ;  With  mind  the  same. 

For  church  and  people  Revere  refounds, 

And  bell  and  steeple  The  bell  resounds, 

Are  crazy  all.  And  all  is  well  again." 

The  present  organ  of  King's  Chapel  was  procured  from  Eng- 
land in  1756,  and  paid  for  by  private  subscription.  It  cost 
£  500  sterling,  and  was  said  to  have  been  selected  by  the  im- 
mortal Handel  himself,  though  the  great  maestro  was  then 
blind.  Over  this  organ  a  crown  and  a  couple  of  gilt  mitres 
are  placed  which  have  a  history  of  their  own. 

In  the  year  1775,  when  Boston  was  in  a  state  of  siege,  the 
British  military  and  naval  officers  worshipped  in  King's  Chapel, 
as  they  had  in  fact  done  during  the  previous  years  the  town 
was  in  occupation  of  the  British  soldiers.  The  burial  of  three 
soldiers  of  the  Sixty-fifth  Regiment  are  the  last-recorded  inter- 
ments in  the  Chapel  cemetery  previous  to  the  evacuation  of  the 
town  in  March.  The  rector,  Dr.  Caner,  went  to  Halifax  with 
the  king's  troops,  taking  with  him  the  church  registers,  plate, 
and  vestments.     The  service,  which  had  in  part  been  presented 


KING  S   CHAPEL   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  66 

by  the  King,  amounted  to  two  thousand  eight  hundred  ounces 
of  silver.     It  was  never  recovered. 

When  the  society  of  King's  Chapel  were  ready  to  rebuild,  in 
1748,  they  desired  an  enlargement  of  the  ground  for  their  site 
a  few  feet  northwardly,  also  a  piece  of  ground  at  the  east  side, 
on  part  of  which  then  stood  the  Latin  School.  After  a  good 
deal  of  negotiation  between  the  town  and  the  church  committee, 
the  church  erected  a  new  school-house  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  street  on  land  belonging  to  Colonel  Saltonstall,  where  the 
Latin  School  remained  up  to  a  comparatively  recent  time.  The 
removal  of  the  old  school-house  was  viewed  with  no  favorable 
eye  by  the  townspeople,  and  Joseph  Green,  a  Harvard  graduate 
of  1726,  and  a  noted  wit,  expressed  the  popular  feeling  thus : — 

"A  fig  for  your  learning  !    I  tell  you  the  town, 
To  make  the  church  larger,  must  pull  the  school  down. 
'  Unhappily  spoken  ! '  exclaims  Master  Birch  ; 
'  Then  learning,  it  seems,  stops  the  growth  of  the  church.' " 

After  the  departure  of  the  royal  troops,  the  popular  furor 
against  everything  savoring  of  their  late  allegiance  to  the 
throne  found  expression  in  the  removal  of  the  royal  emblems 
from  public  buildings,  changing  the  names  of  streets  and  every- 
thing that  bore  any  allusion  to  the  obnoxious  idea  of  kingly 
authority.  King's  Chapel  was  therefore  newly  baptized  Stone 
Chapel,  a  name  that  has  in  turn  been  discarded  for  the  old, 
high-sounding  title  of  yore.  In  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne  the 
church  was  called  "  Queens  Chappell." 

The  establishment  of  the  Church  of  England  in  Boston  was 
attended  with  great  opposition.  The  Puritans,  who  had  fled 
from  the  persecutions  of  that  church  in  the  old  country,  had 
no  idea  of  admitting  it  among  them  in  the  new.  In  16-46  a 
petition  praying  for  the  privilege  of  Episcopal  worship,  addressed 
to  the  General  Court  at  Boston,  caused  the  petitioners  to  be 
fined  for  seditious  expressions,  and  the  seizure  of  their  papers. 
Charles  II.,  after  his  accession,  wrote  to  the  colony  requiring, 
among  other  things,  that  the  laws  should  be  "reviewed  "  so  as 
to  permit  the  Episcopal  form  of  worship,  the  use  of  the  Book 
of  Common  Prayer,  etc.     The  chief  people  and  elders  of  the 


34  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

colony  looked  upon  the  efforts  of  the  profligate  Charles  II.  in 
behalf  of  religious  liberty  as  they  would  upon  the.  cpioting  of 
Scripture  by  his  Satanic  Majesty,  and  paid  little  heed  to  the 
mandate  of  the  merry  monarch  of  whom  his  favorite  Eochester 
wrote,  — 

"  Here  lies  our  sovereign  Lord  the  King, 
Whose  word  no  man  relied  on  ; 
Who  never  said  a  foolish  thing, 
And  never  did  a  wise  one." 

The  King,  when  over  his  bottle,  commanded  Eochester  to 
write  him  a  suitable  epitaph,  "  something  appropriate  and 
witty."  The  Earl,  seizing  his  pen,  wrote  as  above,  and  for  liis 
keen  effusion  remained  some  time  in  disgrace. 

In  168G,  in  the  reign  of  James  II.,  the  first  Episcopal  services 
were  held  in  the  Old  Town  House,  which  then  stood  on  the 
site  of  the  Old  State  House.  Eev.  Eobert  Katcliff  was  the 
first  Episcopal  clergyman,  and  came  over  in  the  Eose  frigate  in 
May,  1686.  The  town,  however,  continued  to  refuse  the  use 
of  any  of  the  meeting-houses,  and  the  society  were  unable  to 
buy  land  on  Cotton  (now  Eemberton)  Hill  to  build  on.  Edward 
Eandolph  —  the  first  officer  of  customs  that  Boston  had,  a  man 
specially  hated  for  his  successful  efforts  to  have  the  king  revoke 
the  colonial  charter — may  be  considered  as  chiefly  instrumental 
in  setting  up  the  Episcopalians  in  Boston.  Eandolph  was  also 
at  this  time  one  of  his  Majesty's  council  for  New  England. 

Sir  Edmund  Andros,  who  arrived  in  Boston  in  December, 

1686,  after  having  several  conferences  with  the  ministers  on 
the  subject  of  using  one  of  the  meeting-houses  for  Episcopal 
services,  sent  Eandolph,  on  Wednesday,  the   22d   of  March, 

1687,  to  demand  the  keys  of  the  South  Meeting-house,  now 
Old  South.  On  Good  Friday,  which  was  the  following  Friday, 
the  sexton  opened  the  doors  by  command  of  Andros  "  to  open 
and  ring  the  bell  for  those  of  the  Church  of  England." 

But  time,  which  makes  all  tilings  even,  gave  the  Old  South 
Society  a  signal  revenge  for  what  they  considered  little  less  than 
sacrilege.  King's  Chapel,  abandoned  by  its  rector  and  con- 
gregation when  the  town  was  evacuated,  remained  closed  untd 
the  autumn  of  1777,  when  it  was  occupied  by  the  Old  South 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  35 

Society,  whose  house  had  "been  converted  into  a  British  riding- 
school.     This  society  used  the  Chapel  about  five  years. 

King's  Chapel  stands  as  a  monument  to  mark  the  resting- 
place  of  Isaac  Johnson,  the  second  white  inhabitant  of  Boston. 
The  locality  of  the  grave  is  unknown,  and  is  likely  to  remain 
so,  owing  to  the  many  changes,  hoth  past  and  prospective,  in 
the  old  burial-ground.  Johnson,  under  whose  direction  the 
settlement  of  Boston  mainly  proceeded  in  its  incipient  steps, 
selected  for  himself  the  square  enclosed  by  Tremont,  Court, 
Washington,  and  School  Streets.  So  says  tradition  on  the 
authority  of  Chief  Justice  Sewall.  Johnson  died  in  September, 
1630,  and  was  buried  at  his  own  request  at  the  southwest 
end  of  his  lot.  This  solitary  grave  was  the  nucleus  around 
which  gathered  the  remains  of  the  first  settlers,  and  constituted 
the  first  place  of  sepulture  in  the  town.  The  old  church  of 
1688  was  erected  on  the  burying-ground,  it  is  conjectured  by 
authority  of  Andros ;  the  town  would  not  have  permitted  the 
use  of  the  public  burying-ground  for  this  purpose. 

Johnson's  history  has  a  touch  of  romance.  He  married 
Lady  Arabella,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Lincoln.  She  left  her 
native  land  and  a  life  of  ease  to  follow  her  husband  to  the 
wilds  of  America.  She  died  very  soon  after  her  arrival,  in 
Salem,  and  was  probably  buried  there ;  but  the  location  of  her 
grave,  like  that  of  her  husband,  who  so  soon  followed  her,  is 
unknown.  Johnson's  death  was  said  to  have  been  hastened  by 
the  loss  of  his  amiable  and  beautiful  wife.  It  was  to  the 
memory  of  the  Lady  Arabella  that  Mrs.  Sigourney  wrote,  — 

"  Yet  still  she  hath  a  monument 
To  strike  the  pensive  eye, 
The  tender  memories  of  the  land 
Wherein  her  ashes  lie." 

It  is  a  popular  belief  that  the  Chapel  Burying-Cround,  or 
"Old  Burying-Place,"  as  it  was  first  called,  contains  the  mortal 
remains  only  of  such  as  were  of  the  Episcopal  faith  ;  but  this 
is  very  far  from  being  the  case.  The  dust  of  Governor  Win- 
throp,  of  John  Cotton,  Davenport,  Oxenbridge,  and  Bridge, 
pastors  of  the  First  Church,  and  of  other  Puritans  of  the  stern- 


36 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


SHIRLEY   ARMS. 


est  type,  lie  under  the  shadow  of  a  detested  Episcopal  edifice. 
Besides  these,  the  remains  of  Governor  Shirley  and  of  Lady 
Andros  repose  here.  Here  may  he 
seen  on  the  tombstones  the  arms  and 
escutcheons  of  the  deceased,  carry- 
ing us  back  to  the  days  of  heraldry. 
Under  the  Chapel  are  vaults  for  tin- 
reception  of  the  dead. 

As  we  look  through  the  iron  gate 
into  the  enclosure,  the  curious  ar- 
rangement of  the  gravestones  strikes 
us.  In  the  centre  the  headstones  form 
a  sort  of  hollow  square,  as  if  to  repel 
further  aggression  upon  the  territory  of  the  dead,  while  at 
the  sides  and  walls  the  same  plan  is  observed.  This  peculiar 
arrangement  was  the  chef  dceuvre  of  a  former  Superintendent 
of  Burials  ;  many  stones  were  removed  from  their  original  posi- 
tions, and  now  give  effect  to  the  proverb,  "to  he  like  a  tomb- 
stone." "What  would  the  future  or  even  present  seeker  after 
the  grave  of  an  ancestor  do  in  such  a  case  of  perplexity? 
Doubtful,  in  a  certain  sense,  of  the  legend  "  Here  lies,"  he  woidd 
restrain  his  emotion,  fearing  that  the  tear  of  affection  might 
fall  on  the  ashes  of  a  stranger. 

King's  Chapel  Burying-Ground  is  by  no  means  exempt  from 
the  ghostly  legends  that  usually  attach  to  cemeteries.  One  is 
recorded  of  a  negro-woman,  whose  coffin  the  careless  carpenter 
having  made  too  short,  severed  the  head  from  the  body,  and, 
clapping  it  between  the  feet,  nailed  down  the  lid  to  conceal  his 
blunder.  Another  is  related  of  a  person  who  was  asserted  to 
have  been  buried  alive.  A  hue-and-cry  was  raised,  the  corpse 
was  exhumed  in  the  presence  of  a  mob  which  had  gathered, 
and  it  needed  the  assurance  of  the  doctors  who  examined  the 
remains  to  set  the  affair  at  rest.  The  mob,  disappointed  of  its 
expected  sensation,  proposed  to  bury  the  old  woman  who  had 
raised  the  uproar,  but  did  not  execute  the  threat.*  Interments 
ceased  here  in  1796. 


*  Dealings  with  the  Dead. 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  37 

Xext  northerly  from  the  burying-ground  once  stood  an  old 
wooden  building  covered  with  rough  cast.  It  was  the  residence 
of  some  of  the  rectors  of  King's  Chapel,  and  of  Dr.  Caner,  the 
last  one.  This  building  was  occupied  by  the  Boston  Athemeuru 
in  1810,  and  was  taken  down  about  forty  years  ago,  to  give  place 
to  the  stone  building  occupied  later  as  a  Savings  Bank  and*by 
the  Historical  Society.  The  Athenpeum,  now  so  conspicuous 
among  literary  institutions,  owes  its  origin  to  the  Anthology 
Club,  an  association  of  gentlemen  for  literary  purposes.  They 
conducted  a  periodical  called  the  Monthly  Anthology,  and  in 
it  published  proposals  in  1806  for  subscriptions  for  a  public 
reading-room.  Success  following  this  effort,  it  was  determined 
to  add  a  library,  and  trustees  were  appointed  for  the  manage- 
ment. The  rooms  were  first  opened  in  Joy's  Buildings,  on  the 
west  corner  of  Congress  and  Water  Streets ;  then  in  Scollay's 
Building  in  Tremont  Street ;  and  later,  in  the  location  first 
mentioned. 

The  Boston  Athenaeum  became  incorporated  in  February, 
1807,  and  occupied  three  rooms  in  the  old  rough-cast  building. 
The  first  was  the  news  or  reading  room ;  the  second,  the  library 
of  the  Athenseum  and  American  Academy ;  the  third,  the  pri- 
vate library  of  John  Quincy  Adams,  now  in  a  building  erected 
fur  it  in  the  garden  of  the  old  mansion  at  Quincy. 

Mr.  Shaw,  in  his  history  published  in  1817,  gives  the  follow- 
ing particulars  with  regard  to  the  library  at  that  time  :  "  The 
library  of  the  Athenaeum  contains  upwards  of  ten  thousand 
volumes.  The  collection  in  history  and  biography  is  very 
complete,  and  in  American  History  unrivalled;  under  this 
head  may  be  noticed  three  thousand  pamphlets.  Twenty-one 
foreign  and  about  twelve  American  periodicals  are  received." 
In  1822  the  Athenaeum  was  removed  to  Pearl  Street,  near  the 
comer  of  High,  to  a  building  partly  purchased  and  partly  pre- 
sented by  James  Perkins.  At  this  time  the  library  possessed 
seventeen  thousand  five  hundred  volumes  and  ten  thousand 
tracts.  It  now  contains  ninety-seven  thousand  six  hundred 
volumes. 

The  Athenaeum  was  removed  in  1849   to   Beacon  Street. 


38  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

where  its  spacious  halls,  devoted  to  sculpture  and  painting, 

attract  the  lovers  of-  art,  no  less  than  its  unrivalled  'library  and 

extensive  reading-rooms  draw  to  its  shrine  the  student  in  every 

department  of  literature.     Pope  tells  us,  — 

"  A  little  learning  is  a  dangerous  thing  ; 
Drink  deep,  or  taste  not  the  Pierian  spring." 

Here  we  may  drink  to  intoxication,  and  avoid  the  danger  he 
points  out.  This  institution  has  received  munificent  contri- 
butions ;  among  others  may  be  named  twenty-five  thousand 
dollars  nobly  donated  at  once  by  John  Bromfield.  Thomas 
H.  Perkins  was  a  generous  benefactor,  and  many  other  eminent 
Bostonians  have  aided  it  handsomely. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  elegant  freestone  building  on 
Beacon  Street  was  laid  in  April,  1847.  The  design  was  by 
Edward  C.  Cabot,  but  some  interior  alterations  were  made 
under  the  direction  of  Billings.  The  site  was  the  estate  of 
Edward  B.  Phillips,  but  the  proprietors  had  purchased  the 
ground  on  which  the  Museum  stands  in  Tremont  Street,  with 
the  intention  of  building  there.  This  ground  was  sold.  The 
original  members  of  the  Anthology  Club,  founders  of  the  Athe- 
na?um,  were  John  Sylvester  John  Gardner,  William  Emerson, 
Arthur  M.  Walter,  William  S.  Shaw,  Samuel  C.  Thacher,  Joseph 
S.  Buckminster,  Joseph  Tuckerman,  William  Tudor,  Jr.,  Peter 
0.  Thacher,  Thomas  Gray,  William  Wells,  Edmund  T.  Dana, 
John  C.  Warren,  and  James  Jackson. 

The  Athenaeum  contains,  among  other  works  of  art,  marble 
busts  of  Dr.  Kirkland,  by  Greenough  ;  of  Chief  Justice  Mar- 
shall, by  Frazee  ;  of  W.  H.  Prescott,  by  Greenough  ;  Crawford's 
marble  statues  of  Hebe  and  Ganymede,  and  of  Orpheus ;  a 
bust  of  Loammi  Baldwin,  by  Powers ;  and  Greenough's  Shep- 
herd Boy  in  bronze.  In  the  superb  collection  of  paintings  are 
Allston's  portrait  of  West,  and  his  Isaac  of  York ;  portraits  by 
Rembrandt  and  Vandyke  ;  a  cattle  piece  by  Cuyp ;  a  Holy 
Family  by  Mufillo,  and  landscapes  by  Yanderwert.  The  origi- 
nal portraits  of  Washington  and  wife,  by  Stuart,  were  pur- 
chased for  fifteen  hundred  dollars  in  1831.  Besides  these  are 
several  unfinished  works  of  Allston. 


king's  CHAPEL  aND  the  neighborhood.  39 

The  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences  is  the  oldest  institution 
with  literary  objects  in  Boston,  and  the  second  in  America.  It 
was  instituted  in  1779,  and  received  a  charter  the  next  year, 
in  which  the  design  of  the  Academy  is  stated  to  be,  "  the  pro- 
motion of  the  knowledge  of  the  antiquities  of  America  and  of 
the  natural  history  of  the  country."  The  number  of  members 
is  limited  to  two  hundred. 

Governor  Bowdoin  was  the  first  president,  followed  by  John 
Adams,  Edward  A.  Holyoke,  J.  Q.  Adams,  Nathaniel  Bowditch, 
John  Pickering,  and  other  distinguished  persons.  Count  Bum- 
ford  left  a  legacy  within  the  control  of  the  Academy  to  ad- 
vance the  cause  of  science.  The  society  occupies  a  room  in 
the  Athena?  urn. 

The  Historical  Society  originated  as  early  as  1791.  On 
the  24th  of  January,  Hon.  Judge  Tudor,  Bev.  Drs.  Belknap, 
Thacher,  and  Eliot,  Judge  Winthrop  of  Cambridge,  Bev.  Dr. 
Freeman,  Judge  Minot,  Hon.  W.  Baylies  of  Dighton,  Judge 
Sullivan,  afterwards  governor  of  Massachusetts,  and  Thomas 
Wallcutt,  met  and  organized.  The  meetings  were  first  held  in 
Judge  Minot's  office  in  Spring  Lane,  but  the  use  of  a  corner 
room  in  the  attic  of  Faneuil  Hall  was  soon  obtained,  "  a  place 
as  retired  and  recondite  as  explorers  into  the  recesses  of -antiq- 
uity would  think  of  visiting."  In  1791  the  society  occupied 
the  Manufactory  House  in  Hamilton  Blace.  In  1793  the 
society  was  offered  a  room  in  the  Tontine  Crescent,  on  the 
south  side  of  Franklin  Street,  over  the  arch,  the  entrance  into 
Arch  Street.  Charles  Bulhnch,  "William  Scollay,  and  Charles 
Vaughan,  who  reclaimed  Franklin  Street  from  a  quagmire,  made 
this  oiler,  and  here  the  society  remained  until  183.3,  when  it 
removed  to  its  late  quarters  in  Tremont  Street,  from  which  it  is 
now  temporarily  ousted  by  the  repairs  of  the  building.  The 
situation  in  Franklin  Street-  presented  the  singular  phase  of  a 
building  without  land,  as  it  rested  upon  an  arched  passage- 
way. 

Governor  Gore  was  president  in  180G.  In  1838  the  society's 
collections  amounted  to  six  thousand  volumes  ami  manuscripts. 
The  society  possesses  many  relics  of  historic  interest,      it    lias 


40  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

portraits  of  Governors  Endicott,  Winslow,  Pownall,  Duramer, 
Belcher,  Winthrop,  Hutchinson,  Strong,  Gore,  -etc.  That  of 
Winslow  is  supposed  to  be  a  Vandyke.  The  swords  of  Gover- 
nor Carver,  Myles  Standish,  Colonel  Church,  Governor  Brooks, 
Sir  William  Pepperell,  and  those  of  Captain  Linzee  and  Colo- 
nel Prescott,  worn  at  Bunker's  Hill,  are  the  property  of  the 
society.  Not  the  least  curious  among  these  relics  is  a  silk  flag 
presented  by  Governor  Hancock  to  a  colored  company  called 
the  "  Bucks  of  America,"  bearing  the  device  of  a  pine-tree  and 
a  buck,  above  which  are  the  initials  "J.  H."  and  "  G.  W." 
There  is  also  a  gun  used  at  the  capture  of  Governor  Andros  by 
the  Bostonians  in  1689  ;  the  samp-bowl  of  King  Philip,  and 
the  lock  of  the  gun  with  which  he  was  killed. 

The  library  of  the  society  has  a  value  not  to  be  estimated  in 
dollars  and  cents.  It  was  the  foundation  of  materials  for  the 
history  of  New  England,  many  of  which  have  been  published 
in  the  society's  valuable  collections. 

Among  other  valuable  donations  to  the  society  may  be  men- 
tioned the  papers  and  documents  of  General  William  Heath  of 
Revolutionary  fame,  besides  the  magnificent  library  of  Thomas 
Dowse  of  Cambridge,  containing  about  five  thousand  volumes, 
many  being  of  the  greatest  historical  interest. 

The  Museum  building,  which  covers  twenty  thousand  feet 
of  land,  and  cost  a  quarter  of  a  million,  is  one  of  the  attractive 
objects  of  the  street  and  of  the  city.  For  many  years  its  rows 
of  exterior  lights  have  been  a  lamp  in  the  path  of  the  pedes- 
trian and  a  lure  to  its  votaries.  On  its  boards  have  stood  in 
times  past  the  elder  Booth  and  Mrs.  George  Barrett.  Booth, 
of  whom  a  capital  likeness  in  crayon,  by  Bowse,  hangs  in  the 
main  hall,  deserves  to  be  classed  with  Kean,  Kemble,  and  the 
giants  of  the  stage.  His  unfortunate  penchant  for  convivial  in- 
dulgence has  given  rise  to  many  anecdotes.  On  one  occasion, 
while  playing  at  the  Howard,  Tom  Ford,  the  manager,  stipu- 
lated that  Booth  should  submit  to  be  locked  in  his  room  by  a 
certain  hour,  in  order  that  the  actor  might  not  be  in  a  condition 
to  disappoint  the  audience,  as  was  sometimes  the  case.  The 
chagrin  of  the  manager  may  be  imagined  at  finding  thet  tragedian 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  41 

intoxicated  when  he  came  to  fetch  him  to  the  theatre.  Booth 
had  bribed  a  waiter  to  bring  liquor  to  his  door,  where  succes- 
sive glasses  were  emptied  by  means  of  a  straw  through  the  key- 
hole. As  Richard  III.  Booth  was  incomparable.  He  often 
became  greatly  excited  in  the  combat  scene,  and  on  one  occa- 
sion it  is  stated  that  he  attacked  W.  H.  Smith,  the  veteran 
actor,  lately  deceased,  in  dead  earnest,  driving  him  from  the 
stage,  and  pursuing  him  into  the  street. 

William  Warren,  the  first  comedian  of  the  American  stage, 
made  his  first  appearance  at  the  Museum  in  1847,  and  after 
twenty-five  years  of  service  is  still  without  a  peer  in  his  pecu- 
liar parts.  Adelaide  Phillips,  whose  triumphs  on  the  lyric 
stage  are  well  known,  was  a  danseuse  at  the  Museum  in  the 
year  just  mentioned.  By  the  generosity  of  Jenny  Lind  and 
other  friends  she  was  enabled  to  obtain  a  musical  education  in 
Europe. 

The  present  Museum  is  near  the  site  of  the  old  Columbian 
Museum,  which  passed  through  many  mutations,  and  was 
finally  destroyed  by  fire  in  January,  1807.  The  Columbian 
Museum  originated  in  the  exhibition  of  wax-works  at  the 
American  Coffee  House  in  State  Street,  opposite  Ivilby,  as 
early  as  1791.  Mr.  Bowen,  the  proprietor,  removed  to  what 
was  called  "  the  head  of  the  Mall,"  at  the  corner  of  Bromfield's 
Lane  (now  Street)  in  1795.  This  building  was  burnt  in  Janu- 
ary, 1803  ;  but  Mr.  Bowen  was  enabled  to  reopen  his  Museum 
in  Milk  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Oliver,  in  May  of  that  year. 
In  180G,  a  brick  building  five  stories  high  was  erected  by  Doyle 
about  where  the  present  Probate  Office  is,  and  reached  by  a  pas- 
sage from  Tremont  Street.    It  was  opened  Thanksgiving  evening. 

The  destructive  element  soon  swept  away  this  edifice.  It 
took  fire  about  midnight,  and  was  consumed  with  all  its  con- 
tents ;  not  an  article  was  saved.  The  event  was  signalized  by 
a  painful  disaster.  A  large  crowd  of  spectators  had  collected 
in  the  burying-ground  adjoining,  when  the  walls  fell,  killing 
nine  or  ten  boys,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  years  old.  Dr.  William 
Eustis,  afterwards  governor  of  Massachusetts,  resided  then  in 
Sudbury  Street,  and  with  other  physicians  lent  his  aid  on  the 


42 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


occasion.  The  undismayed  proprietors  had  a  new  two-story 
building  erected  by  June,  1807,  which  continued'  until  1825, 
when  the  collection  was  sold  to  the  New  England  Museum. 

The  New  England  Museum  —  formed  from  the  New  York 
Museum,  which  was  opened  in  1812,  in  Boylston  Hall;  from 
Mix's  New  Haven  Museum,  added  in  1821  ;  and  from  the 
Columbian  —  was  opened  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Greenwood,  July  4, 
1818.  It  was  situated  on  Court  Street,  and  extended  from 
Cornhill  to  Brattle  Street,  occupying  the  upper  stories.  In 
1839  Moses  Kimball  became  the  proprietor,  and  these  several 
establishments,  merged  in  the  New  England,  constituted  the 
present  Museum,  first  located  on  the  present  site  of  Horticul- 
tural Hall  in  1841,  and  in  1846  where  it  now  stands. 

At  the  corner  of  Court  and  Tremont  Streets  was  the  resi- 
dence of  John  "Wendell,  an  old  Boston  merchant  of  the  time 
of  Governor  Shirley.  He  married  a  daughter  of  Judge  Edmund 
Quincy,  and  was  the  nephew  of  Hon.  Jacob  Wendell,  a  leading 
Bostonian  in  the  troublous  Revolutionary  times. 

The  Boyal  Custom  House  was  located  in  Wendell's  house  in 
1759,  at  which  time  George  Cradock,  Esq.,  a  near  neighbor  of 
Wendell's,  was  collector. 

The  old  building  now  standing  here,  then  of  only  three  sto- 
ries, is  the  one  in  which  Washington  lodged  during  his  visit 
t=-_jp,-  m  1789,  as  you   may  read 

SL,  on  the  small  tablet  placed 
in  the  Court  Street  front. 
At  the  time  Washington 
occupied  it,  it  was  kept  by 
Joseph  Ingersoll  as  a  board- 
ing-house. The  coming  of 
Washington  to  the  town  he 
had  delivered  in  1776  was 
marred  by  an  act  of  official 
punctilio  on  the  part  of  Gov- 
ernor Hancock,  which  caused 
the  greatest  mortification 
alike  to  the  people  and  the 
illustrious  visitor. 


WASHINGTON  S   LODGINGS. 


KINGS    CHAPEL  AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  4o 

On  the  arrival  of  the  general  on  the  Neck,  he  was  met  by 
the  suite  of  the  governor,  but  not  by  the  governor,  whose  views 
of  State  sovereignty  would  not  admit  of  his  acknowledging  a 
superior  personage  within  his  official  jurisdiction.  The  day 
was  cold  and  raw,  and  Washington,  chagrined  at  the  absence 
of  the  governor,  was  about  to  turn  his  horse's  head  to  dejiart, 
when  he  was  prevailed  upon  by  the  authorities  of  the  town  to 
enter  it. 

A  long  delay  had  occurred  at  the  Neck,  and  many  people 
caught  what  was  called  the  "  Washington  cold."  The  general 
wore  his  old  continental  uniform,  and  rode  on  horseback  with 
his  head  uncovered,  but  did  not  salute  the  throngs  that  lined 
his  way.  On  arriving  at  the  Old  State  House,  Washington 
would  not  ascend  to  the  balcony  prepared  for  him  at  the  west 
end,  until  assured  that  the  governor  was  not  there  ;  and  after 
the  passage  of  the  procession  before  him,  retired  to  his  lodgings. 
To  add  to  the  coldness  of  his  reception,  a  cold  dinner  awaited 
him  ;  but  his  landlord  procured  and  placed  before  his  guest  a 
fish  of  great  excellence,  and  thus  saved  his  credit  at  the  last 
moment. 

Washington  himself  declared  the  circumstance  had  been  so 
disagreeable  and  mortifying  that,  notwithstanding  all  the  marks 
of  respect  and  affection  he  had  received  from  the  inhabitants 
of  Boston,  he  would  have  avoided  the  place  had  he  anticipated 
it.* 

Governor  Hancock,  perceiving  that  he  had  made  a  fiasco, 
hastened  to  repair  it.  General  Washington  had  declined  his 
invitation  to  dinner,  so  the  governor  caused  himself  to  be  car- 
ried next  day  to  the  general's  lodgings,  where  he  presented 
himself  swathed  in  flannels  as  a  victim  of  gout.  The  general 
received  the  governor's  excuses  with  due  civility,  whatever  may 
have  been  his  private  convictions,  and  so  the  affair  terminated. 

Madam  Hancock,  indeed,  related  afterwards  that  the  gover- 
nor was  really  laid  up  with  gout,  and  that  Washington  shed 
tears  when  he  saw  the  servants  brinein,L,r  the  helpless  man  into 
his  presence.     Governor  Brooks,  and  Hon.  Jonathan  Jackson, 

*  Hundred  Boston  Orators. 


44  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

then  Marshal  of  the  District,  dined  with  the  general  on  the 
day  of  his  arrival,  hut  did  not  hold  this  view, 'and  the  affair 
was  freely  discussed  at  tahle.  Hancock  seems  to  have  yielded 
to  the  popular  pressure  which  condemned  his  conduct.  He 
was  said  to  have  been  jealous  of  "Washington's  elevation  to  the 
Presidency.  The  general  returned  the  governor's  visit,  was 
affable  among  friends,  but  stood  on  his  dignity  when  strangers 
were  present. 

Harrison  Gray  Otis  was  one  of  the  first  who  occupied  this 
old  corner  for  a  law  office.  In  his  day  it  was  considered  quite 
on  one  side,  though  only  a  few  paces  distant  from  the  Court 
House.  Mr.  Otis  came  upon  the  stage  a  little  before  the  open- 
ing of  the  Eevolutionary  conflict.  He  remembered  seeing  Earl 
Percy's  reinforcements  mustering  for  their  forced  march  to 
Lexington.  A  pupil  of  Master  Lovell  at  the  Latin  School, 
in  1773,  he  was  removed  to  Barnstable  during  the  siege  of 
Boston,  where  he  quietly  pursued  his  studies,  graduating  at 
Harvard  at  eighteen.  He  was  an  able  lawyer,  and  until  the 
advent  of  Mr.  Webster,  —  about  which  time  he  relinquished 
practice,  —  was  the  acknowledged  leader  of  the  Boston  bar. 
Judge  Story  thought  him  the  greatest  popular  orator  of  his  day. 
His  personal  appearance  was  elegant  and  attractive  ;  his  voice, 
strong  and  melodious,  often  sounded  in  Faneuil  Hall. 

Mr.  Otis  was  prominently  identified  with  public  affairs.  In 
politics  he  was  a  Federalist,  and  a  leader  of  that  party  in  Con- 
gress from  1797  to  1801.  He  was  also  an  influential  member 
of  the  celebrated  Hartford  Convention.  In  1817,  after  filling 
a  number  of  State  offices,  Mr.  Otis  went  into  the  United  States 
Senate ;  and  became  mayor  of  his  native  city  in  1 829.  He 
was  the  grandson  of  Harrison  Gray,  treasurer  of  the  colony  and 
a  Loyalist,  and  nephew  of  James  Otis,  the  patriot.  Gifted  in 
oratory,  with  a  winning  manner  and  polished  address,  Harrison 
Gray  Otis  ranks  high  among  Boston's  public  men.  One  of  the 
public  schools  is  named  for  him. 

In  the  building  we  are  inspecting  was  once  the  law  office  of 
the  great  expounder  of  the  Constitution,  Daniel  Webster,  who 
first  came  to  Boston  in  1804,  and  studied  law  with  Christo- 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  45 

pher  Gore,  afterwards  Governor  of  Massachusetts.  He  kept 
school  a  short  time  for  his  brother  Ezekiel,  in  Short  Street, 
since  Kingston.  Edward  Everett,  who  lived  with  his  mother 
in  Newbury  Street,  was  about  ten  years  old,  and  went  at  this 
time  to  Webster's  school. 

It  is  related  of  Mr.  Webster,  that  when  a  young  man,  about 
to  begin  the  study  of  law,  he  was  advised  not  to  enter  the 
legal  profession,  as  it  was  already  crowded.  His  reply  was, 
"  There  is  room  enough  at  the  top."  Mr.  Webster  removed  to 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  returning  to  Boston  in  181 G,  and  in  1820 
he  was  a  member  of  the  Massachusetts  Constitutional  Conven- 
tion. His  orations  at  the  laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  Bunker 
Hill  Monument,  June  17,  1825,  when  Lafayette  was  present, 
and  also  on  its  completion,  June  17,  1843,  are  familiar  to  every 
school-boy.  An  unsuccessful  candidate  for  the  Presidency  in 
1836,  he  entered  the  cabinet  of  General  Harrison  in  1840,  as 
Secretary  of  State,  negotiating  the  long-disputed  question  of 
boundary  with  Great  Britain  by  the  Ashburton  treaty.  His 
great  reply  to  Hayne  of  South  Carolina,  in  the  Senate,  in 
which  he  defended  New  England  against  the  onslaughts  of  the 
Southern  Senator,  made  him  the  idol  of  the  people  of  Boston. 
This  speech,  which  opens  with  the  graphic  simile  of  a  ship  at 
sea  in  thick  weather,  her  position  unknown  and  her  crew  Idled 
with  anxiety,  was,  it  is  said,  delivered  without  preparation, 
amid  the  gloomy  forebodings  of  the  New  England  men  m 
Washington.  His  wife,  even,  who  heard  the  fiery  harangue  of 
Hayne,  feared  for  the  result ;  but  the  "  Northern  Lion  "  reas- 
sured her  with  the  remark  that  he  Would  grind  the  Southern 
Senator  "  finer  than  the  snuff  in  her  box." 

Notwithstanding  the  sledge-hammer  force  of  Webster's  elo- 
quence he  was  often  at  a  loss  for  a  word,  but  when  it  came  to 
him  it  was  exactly  the  right  one.  His  clearness  of  expression 
is  well  illustrated  by  the  following  anecdote  of  David  Crockett, 
who,  having  heard  Mr.  Webster  speak,  accosted  him  afterwards 
with  the  inquiry,  "Is  this  Mr.  Webster 1"  "Yes,  sir." 
"Well,  sir,"  continued  Crockett,  "I  had  heard  that  you  were 
a  very  great  man,  but  I  don't  think  so.  I  heard  your  speech 
and  understood  every  word  you  said." 


46  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Mr.  Webster's  hesitation  for  a  suitable  expression  is  well 
described  by  the  following  anecdote.  At  a  meeting  in  Faneui] 
Hall  he  was  arguing  in  favor  of  the  "  Maysville  Road "  bill, 
with  his  usual  power,  and  remarked,  "I  am  in  favor,  Mr. 
Chairman,  of  all  roads,  except,  except  — "  Here  he  stuck,  at 
fault  for  a  word,  until  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  who  sat  near  lnm 
on  the  platform,  said  in  a  low  voice,  "  Say  except  the  road  to 
ruin."  Mr.  Webster  adopted  the  suggestion,  and  used  it  as  if 
he  had  merely  paused  to  make  his  remark  more  effective. 

In  Bench  and  Bar,  it  is  related  that,  while  Webster  was 
Secretary  of  State,  the  French  Minister  asked  him  whether  the 
United  States  would  recognize  the  new  government  of  France. 
The  Secretary  assumed  a  very  solemn  tone  and  attitude,  saying, 
"Why  not?  The  United  States  has  recognized  the  Bourbons, 
the  French  Republic,  the  Directory,  the  Council  of  Five  Hun- 
dred, the  First  Consul,  the  Emperor,  Louis  XVIIL,  Charles  X., 
Louis  Philippe,  the  — -  "  "  Enough  !  Enough  !  "  cried  the 
Minister,  perfectly  satisfied  by  such  a  formidable  citation  of 
consistent  precedents. 

Mr.  Webster  lived  in  Somerset  Street,  and  also  at  the  corner 
of  High  and  Summer  Streets,  during  the  different  periods  of 
his  residence  in  Boston.  The  house  in  Somerset  Street  is 
on  the  east  side,  is  numbered  tliirty-seven,  and  is  still  standing. 
It  was  occupied  successively  by  Uriah  Cotting,  Daniel  Web- 
ster, Abbott  Lawrence,  and  Rev.  Ephraim  Peabodv  of  King's 
Chapel.  Webster's  residence  in  High  Street  is  marked  by  a 
splendid  block  of  stores,  aptly  styled  "  Webster  Buildings." 
Here  he  resided  at  the  time  of  Lafayette's  visit  in  1825,  and 
received  the  distinguished  Frenchman  on  the  evening  of  the 
1 7th  of  June. 

Mr.  Webster  was  a  genuine  lover  of  nature  and  of  field 
sports,  and  was  a  good  shot.  He  delighted  in  his  farm  at 
Marshfield,  and  in  his  well-fed  cattle.  Gray's  Elegy  was  his 
favorite  poem,  and  he  was  accustomed  to  repeat  it  with  great 
feeling  and  emphasis.  Of  his  two  sons,  Edward  died  in 
Mexico,  a  Major  of  the  Massachusetts  Volunteers ;  Fletcher, 
Colonel  of  the  Twelfth  Massachusetts  Volunteers  in  the  War  of 
the  Rebellion,  was  killed  near  Bull  Run  in  1862. 


KING'S    CHAPEL   AND   THE    NEIGHBORHOOD.  47 

"With  two  such  distinguished  lights  of  the  profession  as 
Otis  and  Webster  before  them,  it  is  no  wonder  the  old  corner 
retains  its  magnetism  for  the  disciples  of  Sir  William  Black- 
stone. 

Having  now  passed  down  one  side  of  ancient  "  Treamount " 
Street,  Ave  will  repair  to  the  corner  of  Howard  Street,  and 
go  up  the  other  side,  following  the  practice  of  the  fathers 
of  the  town,  who  numbered  the  streets  consecutively  down 
on  one  side  and  up  the  other.  This  is  still  the  custom  in 
London,  and  was  doubtless  imported  with  many  other  old- 
country  usages. 

Old  "Treamount  Street"  began  in  1708,  at  the  extreme  cor- 
ner of  Court  Street  and  Tremont  Row,  as  they  now  are,  and 
extended  around  the  base  of  what  was  first  called  Cotton  Hill 
(so  called  as  late  as  1733),  from  the  residence  of  Rev.  John 
Cotton  ;  subsequently  Pemberton  Hill,  from  James  Pemberton, 
a  later  resident  at  the  north  end  of  what  is  now  Pemberton 
Square.  It  was  at  first  merely  called  a  highway,  like  the  other 
principal  avenues,  received  very  early  the  name  of  street,  and 
was  at  the  northerly  part  called  Sudbury  Lane,  1702.  It  ter- 
minated at  Beacon  Street.  Pemberton  Hill,  a  spur  of  Beacon, 
now  marks  a  level  of  about  eighty  feet  below  the  summit  of 
the  original  hill,  it  having  been  cut  down  in  1835. 

On  the  brow  of  the  hill,  later  the  residence  of  Gardiner 
Greene,  was  the  mansion  of  Governor  Endicott,  that  uncom- 
promising Puritan  who,  in  1629,  sent  the  obnoxious  Episcopa- 
lians home  to  England,  and  afterwards  cut  out  the  cross  from 
the  Ring's  standard  because  it  "savored  of  popery."  John 
Endicott  was  sent  to  America  by  the  Massachusetts  Company, 
in  England,  of  which  Mathew  Cradock  was  governor,  as  their 
agent,  and  was  governor  of  the  colony  which  settled  at  Salem 
in  1G28.  He  was  the  successor  of  Winthrop,  as  governor,  in 
1644,  and  again  in  1G49,  and  removed  to  Boston  in  the  former 
year.  Endicott  filled  a  number  of  important  offices  ;  was  ap- 
pointed Sergeant  Major-General  in  1645,  and  in  1652  estab- 
lished a  mint,  which,  though  without  legal  authority,  continued 
to  supply  a  currency  for  more  than  thirty  years.     Governor 


48 


LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


ENDICOTT   CUTTING   OUT   THE   CROSS. 


Endicott  opposed  the  crusade  of  Rev.  John  Cotton  against  the 
wearing  of  veils  by  ladies,  and  had  a  warm  personal  discussion 

with  that  eminent  divine.  His 
portrait  is  more  like  a  cardinal  of 
Eichelieu's  time  than  a  Puritan 
soldier.  His  head  is  covered  by  a 
close-fitting  velvet  skull-cap,  from 
which  the  curling  iron-gray  hair 
is  escaping  down  his  shoulders  ;  a 
i.  broad  linen  collar,  fastened  at  the 
throat  with  cord  and  tassel,  falls 
upon  his  breast,  while  his  small 
white  right  hand  is  grasping  a 
gauntlet  richly  embroidered.  En- 
dicott's  forehead  is  massive,  his 
nose  large  and  prominent ;  but  a 
gray  mustache  which  decorates  his  upper  lip  effectually  con- 
ceals the  expression  of  his  mouth,  while  a  long  imperial  of  the 
French  fiishion  hides  a  portion  of  the  chin.  His  whole  coun- 
tenance, however,  indicates  strength,  resolution,  and  courage. 
The  mutilation  of  the  flag  was  not  an  act  of  bravado  at  a  safe 
distance  from  punishment,  but  of  conscience ;  and  his  portrait 
shows  us  that,  having  once  formed  a  conviction,  he  would  pur- 
sue it  regardless  of  consequences. 

Captain  Cyprian  Southack  had  a  comfortable  estate  of  two 
acres,  in  1702,  lying  on  the  northerly  and  easterly  slope  of  the 
hill.  Howard  Street,  which  was  first  named  Southack's  Court 
for  him,  subsequently  Howard  Street,  from  John  Howard  the 
philanthropist,  ran  through  his  lands.  Captain  Southack  served 
under  the  famous  Colonel  Benjamin  Church  in  an  expedition 
against  the  French  and  Indians  in  1704,  in  which  he  com- 
manded a  small  vessel,  called  the  Province  Snow,  of  fourteen 
guns.  When  Admiral  Sir  H.  Walker  arrived  in  Boston  in 
1711,  with  a  fleet  and  five  thousand  men  destined  to  act  against 
the  French  in  Canada,  he  took  up  his  residence  with  Southack 
in  Tremont  Street.  The  captain  was  to  lead  the  van  of  the 
expedition. 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  49 

In  1717  the  pirate  ship  Whiclah,  commanded  by  the  noto- 
rious Samuel  Bellamy,  was  wrecked  on  the  rocks  of  that  part 
of  Eastham,  now  Wellrieet.  The  council  despatched  Captain 
Southack  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster.  His  powers  are  indi- 
cated by  the  following  original  document  :  — 

"By  virtue  of  power  to  me,  given  by  his  Excellency  Sand.  Slnite, 
Esq.,  Govt.,  and  the  Admiral,  bearing  date  April  30th,  1717,  to 
seize  what  goods,  merchandise,  or  effects  have  or  may  be  found  or 
taken  from  the  Pirate  ship  wreck  at  Cape  Codd,  and  those  taken 
up  by  Joseph  Done,  Esq.,  in  carting  and  bringing  in  to  me  the  sub- 
scriber for  his  Majesty's  service  at  Mr.  Wm.  Brown's  at  Eastham. 

"Cyprian  Southack. 
"Eastham,  May  6,  1717." 

Bellamy's  ship  was  purposely  run  on  shore  by  the  captain  of 
a  small  vessel  he  had  captured  the"  day  before.  The  captain 
was  to  have  received  his  vessel  from  the  pirate  in  return  for 
piloting  him  into  Cape  Cod  harbor,  but,  distrusting  the  good 
faith  of  his  captor,  run  his  own  vessel  so  near  the  rocks  that 
the  large  ship  of  the  pirate  was  wrecked  in  attempting  to  follow 
her.  A  storm  arose,  and  the  rest  of  the  pirate  fleet,  thrown 
into  confusion,  shared  the  fate  of  their  commander.  Captain 
Southack  buried  one  hundred  and  two  bodies.  A  few  that 
escaped  the  wreck  were  brought  to  Boston  and  executed.  For 
a  long  time — as  late  as  1794  —  copper  coins  of  "William  and 
Mary,  and  pieces  of  silver,  called  cob  money,  were  picked  up 
near  the  scene  of  the  wreck.  The  violence  of  the  sea  moved 
the  sands  upon  the  outer  bar,  so  that  the  iron  caboose  of  the 
vessel  was  visible  at  low  ebb.* 

Theodore  Lyman,  senior,  father  of  the  mayor  of  that  name, 
owned  and  occupied  a  mansion  on  the  corner  of  Howard  and 
Tremont  Streets  in  1785.  A  beautiful  green  lawn  extended 
in  front  of  his  residence.  These  charming  oases  in  the  midst 
of  the  desert  of  brick  walls  have  long  ceased  to  exist  except  in 
the  public  squares.  This  lot  was  also  intended  to  have  been 
used  by  the  Brattle  Street  Church  Society  when  they  rebuilt 
in  1772  -  73  ;  but  Governor  Hancock,  by  the  present  of  a  bell, 

*  Massachusetts  Historical  Collections. 

3  D 


50  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

induced  them  to  rebuild  on  the  old  site.  This  location  was 
also  occupied  by  Holland's  Coffee  House,  afterwards  the  Pern- 
berton  House,  destroyed  by  lire  in  1854. 

Passing  the  estate  of  John  Jekyll,  Esq.,  one  of  the  earliest 
collectors  of  the  port  of  Boston,  1707,  and  a  great  friend  of  his 
neighbors  the  Faneuils,  we  come  to  that  of  Iiev.  John  Cotton, 
the  spiritual  father  of  Boston.  John  Cotton,  as  stated  in  our 
introductory  chapter,  was  vicar  of  St.  Botolph's  Church  in  Bos- 
ton, England,  but  inclined  to  the  Puritan  form  of  worship. 
Cited  to  appear  before  the  notorious  Archbishop  Laud  for 
omitting  to  kneel  at  the  sacrament,  he  fled  to  America,  and 
arrived  in  Boston  in  1G33,  three  years  after  the  settlement. 
Here  he  became  a  colleague  of  the  Bev.  Jolm  Wilson  in  the 
pastorate  of  the  First  Church.  He  was  a  man  of  great  learning, 
well  acquainted  with  Latin,  Greek,  and  Hebrew,  and  published 
many  sermons  and  controversial  works.  He  died  from  the 
effects  of  exposure  in  crossing  the  Cambridge  ferry,  and  has 
a  memorial  erected  to  his  memory  in  his  old  church  of  St. 
Botolph's,  England,  through  the  liberality ^ of  Edward  Everett 
and  other  Bostonians. 

The  house  of  Mr.  Cotton  stood  a  little  south  of  the  entranco 
to  Pemberton  Square,  near  the  street,  and  was  standing  about 
fifty  years  ago.  It  was  then  considered  the  oldest  in  Boston, 
and  the  back  part,  which  remained  unaltered,  had  the  small 
diamond  panes  of  glass  set  in  lead.  His  ample  estate  extended 
back  over  the  hill  as  far  as  Dr.  Kirk's  Church  in  Ashburton 
Place,  and  embraced  all  the  central  portion  of  what  is  now 
Pemberton  Square. 

This  house  had  a  still  more  distinguished  tenant  in  Henry 
Vane  the  younger,  who  resided  in  it  during  his  stay  of  two 
years  in  Boston,  making  some  additions  to  the  building  for  his 
own  greater  comfort.  Sir  Harry,  whose  eventful  history  is 
familiar,  was  received  with  great  respect  by  Winthrop  and 
the  people  of  the  town,  on  his  arrival  in  1G35.  His  lather, 
Sir  Henry,  was  Secretary  of  State  and  Treasurer  of  the  House- 
hold under  James  I.  and  Charles  I.  Alienated  from  the 
Church  of  England,  young  Harry  Vane  refused  to  take  the 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  51 

oath  of  allegiance,  and  became  a  Republican  and  a  Puritan. 
He  was  only  twenty-four  when  chosen  governor  of  Massachu- 
setts Colony.  During  his  administration  the  religious  contro- 
versy between  the  congregation  and  the  new  sect  of  Familists, 
of  which  Anne  Hutchinson  was  the  acknowledged  exponent, 
broke  out.  Sir  Harry,  opposed  by  Winthrop,  was  defeated  at 
a  second  election  of  governor,  but  was  immediately  chosen  a 
representative  from  the  town  to  the  General  Court.  Returning 
to  England,  in  1637,  he  was  elected  to  Parliament  and  knighted 
in  1640.  He  is  said  to  have  presented  the  bill  of  attainder 
against  the  Earl  of  Strafford.  Disliking  Cromwell's  dissolution 
of  the  Long  Parliament,  Vane  withdrew  from  public  affairs 
until  1649,  when  he  became  member  of  the  Council  of  State, 
with  almost  exclusive  control  of  naval  and  foreign  affairs  of 
the  Commonwealth.  At  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.  he  was 
thrown  into  the  Tower,  and  executed  on  Tower  Hill,  Lon- 
don, June  14,  1662.  His  bearing  at  the  place  of  execution 
was  manly  and  dignified,  and  he  has  been  described  by  Forster 
as  one  of  the  greatest  and  purest  men  that  ever  walked  the 
earth  :  — 

"  Vane,  young  in  years,  but  in  sage  counsel  old, 

Than  whom  a  better  senator  ne'er  held 
The  helm  of  Rome,  when  gowns,  not  arms,  repelled 

The  fierce  Epirot  and  th'  Afric  bold, 
Whether  to  settle  peace,  or  to  unfold 

The  drift  of  hollow  states  hard  to  be  spelled  ; 
Then  to  advise  how  war  may,  best  upheld, 

Move  by  her  two  main  nerves,  iron  and  gold, 
In  all  her  equipage  ;  besides,  to  know 

Both  spiritual  power  and  civil,  what  each  means, 
What  severs  each,  —  thou  hast  learned  what  few  have  done, 

The  bounds  of  either  sword  to  thee  we  owe  ; 
Therefore  on  thy  (inn  hand  Religion  leans 

In  peace,  and  reckons  thee  her  eldest  son." 

Judge  Samuel  Sewall,  Chief  Justice  of  the  colony,  in  whose 
family  the  estates  of  Cotton  and  Bellingham  became  united, 
lived  here  in  1689.  He  was  repeatedly  applied  to  to  sell  a 
piece  of  his  land  to  the  Episcopalians  to  build  a  church  upon, 
but  refused,  lie  married  a  daughter  of  John  Hull,  the  cele- 
brated mint-master,  with  whom  he  got,  at  different  times,  a 


52  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

snug  portion  of  Master  Hull's  estate.  He  was  one  of  the  judges 
during  the  witchcraft  trials  of  1692,  but  afterwards  expressed 
contrition  for  his  share  in  that  wretched  business.  Stoughton, 
on  the  contrary,  on  one  occasion,  indignant  at  the  governor's 
reprieve  of  some  of  the  victims,  left  the  court  exclaiming,  "  We 
were  in  a  way  to  have  cleared  the  land  of  these.  Who  is  it 
obstructs  the  course  of  justice  I  know  not.  The  Lord  be  mer- 
ciful to  the  country  !  " 

Judge  Sewall  was  a  considerable  proprietor,  owning  a  large 
estate  on  Beacon  Hill,  known  in  his  time  as  Sewall's  Elm 
Pasture.  Through  this  were  laid  out  anciently  Coventry, 
Sewall,  and  Bishop-Stoke  Street,  the  latter  named  from  his 
English  birthplace.  The  judge  left  a  diary,  now  in  posses- 
sion of  the  Historical  Society,  containing  much  contemporary 
history.  He  attended  the  Old  South,  and  related  to  Rev. 
Dr.  Prince  the  story  of  Johnson's  settlement  and  burial  in 
Boston. 

Patrick  Jeffrey,  who  married  Madam  Haley,  sister  of  the 
celebrated  John  Wilkes  of  the  North  Briton,  became  a  subse- 
quent possessor  of  the  Cotton  estate.  Somerset  Street,  named 
from  John  Bowers  of  Somerset,  Mass.,  crosses  the  Jeffrey  or 
Cotton  estate,  and  the  former  conveyed  to  the  town,  in  1801, 
so  much  of  that  street  as  passed  through  his  property. 

Another  proprietor  of  the  Cotton  estate  was  Gardiner  Greene, 
well  remembered  as  one  of  the  wealthiest  citizens  of  Boston. 
By  purchase  of  his  neighbors,  Mr.  Greene  became  possessed  of 
the  larger  portion  of  Pemberton  Hill,  which  he  greatly  beauti- 
fied and  improved.  The  hill  was  terraced,  and  Mr.  Greene's 
mansion  - —  which,  though  substantial,  had  no  special  marks  of 
elegance  —  was  reached  by  long  flights  of  steps.  Mr.  Greene 
is  said  to  have  owned  the  only  greenhouse  then  existing  in 
Boston,  and  his  grounds,  adorned  by  nature  and  art,  made  alto- 
gether the  finest  private  residence  in  the  town. 

Mr.  Greene's  third  wife  was  a  sister  of  Lord  Lyndhurst,  son 
of  the  celebrated  painter,  Copley,  and  a  Bostonian,  who  be- 
came a  peer  of  the  realm  and  Lord  Chancellor  of  Great  Brit- 
ain,    lie  was  called  the  "  Nestor  of   the   House   of   Lords," 


KING'S  CHxVPEL  and  the  neighborhood.  53 

and  was  noted  for  his  dry  caustic  humor.  Once,  when  Lord 
Brougham,  speaking  of  the  salary  attached  to  a  certain  appoint- 
ment, said  it  was  all  moonshine,  Lyndhurst,  in  his  waggish  way 
remarked,  "  Maybe  so,  my  Lord  Harry ;  but  I  have  a  con- 
founded strong  notion  that,  moonshine  though  it  be,  you  would 
like  to  see  the  first  quarter  of  it." 

Gardiner  Greene's  residence  was  occupied  in  1775  by  a  noble 
tenant,  Percy,  afterwards  Earl  of  Northumberland,  gallant, 
chivalrous,  and  brave,  — 

"  Who,  when  a  younger  son, 
Fought  for  King  George  at  Lexington, 
A  major  of  dragoons." 

Percy  it  was  who  saved  the  royal  troops  from  destruction  at 
Lexington,  on  the  ever  memorable  19th  of  AprU,  1775.  He 
seems  to  have  changed  his  quarters  quite  often,  for,  about  the 
time  of  the  affair  at  Lexington,  he  was  ordered  by  General 
Gage  to  take  possession  of  the  Hancock  house  on  Beacon 
Street.  He  also  resided  some  time  with  Mrs.  Sheaffe,  widow 
of  the  collector,  in  Essex  Street.  We  shall  call  on  him  at  his 
several  habitations. 

Richard  Bellingham,  Esq.,  Governor  of  Massachusetts  in 
1635,  in  1641,  and  again  in  1654,  and  from  1666,  after  the 
death  of  Endicott,  until  bis  own  decease  in  1672,  was  the  next 
neighbor  of  Cotton.  Anne  Hibbins,  who  married  William  Hib- 
bins,  an  early  settler  of  Boston,  for  many  years  in  the  service 
of  the  Colony,  was  a  relative  of  Governor  Bellingham.  This 
unfortunate  woman,  denounced  for  witchcraft,  was  executed  in 
1656,  when  an  accusation  was  equivalent  to  condemnation, 
and  forfeited  her  life  to  the  superstitious  bigotry  of  the  period. 
Governor  Bellingham  served  the  colony  as  governor  and  dep- 
uty for  twenty-three  years;  was  ordered  by  Charles  II.  to 
England  with  other  obnoxious  persons,  but  prudently  declined 
going,  by  advice  of  the  General  Court.  Bellingham,  whose 
intellect  was  said  to  have  been  impaired,  was  an  unrelenting 
persecutor  of  the  Quakers.  His  house  stood  on  the  spot  after- 
wards occupied  by  the  residence  of  Lieutenant-Governor  Phil- 
lips, opposite  the  north  end  of  the  Chapel    Burying-Ground, 


54  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

and  about  midway  from  the  entrance  to  Pembcrton  Square  to 
Deacon  Street. 

The  Bellingham  estate  was  also  the  property  of  Peter 
Faneuil,  who  received  it  from  Andrew,  his  uncle,  in  1737. 
The  house,  a  fine  old  stone  mansion,  stood  on  the  hillside  some 
distance  back  from  the  street.  Opening  into  the  cellar  was 
a  curious  cylindrical  brick  vault,  resembling  in  shape  a  wine- 
cask,  and  used  as  a  wine-cellar  by  the  more  modern  occupants. 
It  was  about  fifteen  feet  in  diameter  by  twenty -five  feet  long ; 
and  as  it  formed  no  part  of  the  original  cellar,  which  was 
amply  sufficient  for  ordinary  purposes,  was.  considered  to  have 
been  a  place  of  concealment  for  smuggled  goods. 

The  following  description  of  the  Faneuil  house  is  from 
Miss  Quincy's  Memoir  :  "  The  deep  court-yard,  ornamented  by 
flowers  and  shrubs,  was  divided  into  an  upper  and  lower  plat- 
form by  a  high  glacis,  surmounted  by  a  richly  wrought  iron 
railing  decorated  with  gilt  balls.  The  edifice  was  of  brick, 
painted  white  ;  and  over  the  entrance  door  was  a  semicircular 
balcony.  The  terraces  which  rose  from  the  paved  court  behind 
the  house  were  supported  by  massy  walls  of  hewn  granite,  and 
were  ascended  by  flights  of  steps  of  the  same  material.  A 
grasshopper  yet  glittered  on  a  summer-house  which  com- 
manded a  view  only  second  to  that  from  Beacon  Hill." 

Such  was  the  mansion  at  the  time  of  its  occupancy  by  Gov- 
ernor Phillips.  Andrew  Faneuil  erected  on  this  estate  the  first 
hothouse  in  New  England.  The  deed  to  him  describes  the 
mansion  as  "  a  stone  house." 

The  Faneuils  were  French  Huguenots  from  La  Rochelle, 
ever  memorable  from  its  siege  and  gallant  defence,  and  came  to 
America  after  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes.  The 
name  is  erroneously  inscribed  "Funel"  on  the  stone  which  covers 
the  remains  of  the  Faneuils  in  the  Granary  Burying-Ground. 
Peter  Faneuil  is  best  known  as  the  munificent  donor  of  Fan- 
euil Hall  to  the  town  of  Boston.  He  was  born  at  New 
Bochelle,  near  New  York,  in  1700  ;  was  the  wealthiest  Bos- 
tonian  of  his  day,  and  after  having  lived  only  forty-two 
years,  died  suddenly  of  dropsy  in  1742.     Like  many  of  his 


KING'S    CHArEL   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  55 

contemporaries,  he  was  a  slaveholder,  and  there  is  a  sort  of 
poetic  justice  in  the  fact  that  the  first  steps  for  the  emancipa- 
tion of  slaves  in  Boston  were  taken  in  Faneuil  Hall. 

Peter  Faneuil  lived  in  a  style  worthy  his  position  as  a  prince 
among  merchants.  He  owned  a  chariot  and  coach,  with 
English  horses,  for  state  occasions,  and  a  two  and  four  wheeled 
chaise  for  ordinary  purposes.  He  had  five  negroes,  and  four- 
teen hundred  ounces  of  plate,  among  which  is  enumerated 
"  a  large  handsome  chamber-pot."  His  cellar  was  bursting 
with  good  wine,  arrack,  beer,  Cheshire  and  Gloucester  cheeses, 
—  what  wonder  his  decease  was  sudden  !  —  and  he  died  owner 
of  eight  buildings  in  Coruhill  and  King  Street,  with  many 
vessels  and  parts  of  vessels. 

To  retrograde  a  little,  next  north  of  Peter  Faneuil's  once 
dwelt  Rev.  John  Davenport,  who  came  over  to  Boston  in 
1637.  He  was  one  of  the  founders  of  New  Haven,  Connecti- 
cut. When  the  Regicides,  as  Charles  I.'s  judges  Goffe  and 
Whalley  were  styled,  were  forced  to  live  in  concealment, 
Davenport  took  them  into  his  own  house..  Returning  to  Bos- 
ton he  became,  in  1668,  pastor  of  the  First  Church,  but  died 
in  1670,  after  holding  his  charge  but  a  short  time,  and  lies  in 
the  "  Old  Burial-Place,"  opposite  where  he  once  lived.  The 
estate  of  Rev.  John  Davenport  remained  for  nearly  a  century 
the  property  of  the  First  Church,  and  was  occupied  by  Fox- 
croft,  Clarke,  and  others. 

Lieutenant-Governor  William  Phillips,  by  birth  a  Bostonian, 
became  the  proprietor  of  the  Faneuil  mansion  and  estate  in 
1791,  which  was  confiscated  in  1783  by  the  Commonwealth. 
Governor  Phillips  also  acquired  the  Davenport  estate  in  1805, 
which  gave  him  a  magnificent  homestead,  well  worthy  one  of 
the  solid  men  of  Boston.  He  was  in  office  from  1812  to  1823. 
Mr.  Phillips  made  a  most  liberal  use  of  the  fortune  he  inherited, 
was  a  great  benefactor  of  the  Massachusetts  General  Hos- 
pital during  his  life,  and  made  valuable  bequests  to  Phillips 
Academy,  Andover  Theological  Seminary,  and  other  institu- 
tions. 

Rev.  John  Oxenbridge,  another  pastor  of  the  First  Church, 


56  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

lived  on  the  site  of  the  Pavilion  in  1671.  A  former  occu- 
pant was  Colonel  Samuel  Shrimpton,  who  at  one'  time  owned 
Noddle's  Island  (East  Boston),  and  gave  his  name  to  what  is 
now  Exchange  Street,  once  Shrimpton's  Lane.  Rev.  John 
Oxenbridge  was  educated  at  Oxford  and  also  at  Cambridge, 
was  a  popular  preacher  and  a  fluent  writer.  Dying  in  1674, 
he  was  interred,  like  his  predecessor  Davenport,  in  the  Old 
Burying-Place  opposite.  George  Cradock,  Collector  of  Boston, 
lived  here  in  1728. 

We  have  now  reached  the  corner  of  Beacon  Street,  which 
was  first  styled  the  lane  leading  to  the  Almshouse,  a  rather 
humble  designation  for  the  most  aristocratic  street  of  Boston. 
The  Albion  corner  was  once  occupied  by  James  Penn,  ruling 
elder  of  the  First  Church,  and  a  citizen  of  note.  It  became 
later  the  estate  of  Samuel  Eliot,  father  of  Mayor  Eliot,  noted 
for  his  reforms  in  the  Fire  Department.  Both  the  Albion  site 
and  that  of  the  block  of  houses  west  of  it  were  occupied  by  Mr. 
Eliot's  mansion-house  and  gardens.  He  was  a  true  gentleman 
of  the  old  school,  wedded  to  the  customs  of  a  past  generation. 
In  the  coldest  weather  he  appeared  in  his  customary  cocked 
hat,  small  clothes,  and  ruffled  shirt  bosom,  without  cloak  or 
overcoat.  He  was  a  dealer  in  dry  goods  at  the  west  corner  of 
Wilson's  Lane,  in  Dock  Square. 

From  the  array  of  honorable  names  presented,  Tremont  liow 
was  once  entitled  to  be  called  the  Eotten  Row  of  Boston.  En- 
dicott,  Vane,  Bellingham,  governors  of  the  Colony ;  Phillips, 
lieutenant-governor  of  the  State ;  and  the  eminent  divines  Cot- 
ton, Davenport,  and  Oxenbridge,  all  found  a  residence  here. 

We  continue  our  perambulations  through  School  Street, 
which,  receiving  its  name  from  the  old  Latin  School,  was 
called  Latin  School  Street.  Its  limits  were  the  same  as  now, 
and  it  was  first  called  the  lane  leading  to  Centry  Hill.  It  was 
laid  out  in  1640. 

Below  the  old  King's  Chapel  stood  the  Latin  School,  whose 
situation  and  removal  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  has 
already  been  described.  It  originated  in  1634,  and  Philemon 
Pormont  was  "  intreated  to  become  schoolmaster  for  the  teaching 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  57 

and  nourtering  of  children  with  vs."  This  was  the  beginning  of 
that  educational  system  in  which  Boston  takes  so  just  a  pride. 
The  grounds  extended  down  the  street  nearly  to  the  Franklin 
statue.  The  building  itself  was  of  one  story,  large  enough  to 
accommodate  a  hundred  scholars.  Franklin  went  to  the  Latin 
School  one  year,  entering  in  1714,  at  the  age  of  eight  years; 
his  statue  is,  therefore,  becomingly  placed  near  his  alma  mater. 
John  Hancock  also  attended  the  school,  entering  in  1745  ;  his 
much-admired  and  striking  autograph  was  doubtless  acquired 
on  its  hard  benches.  Robert  Treat  Paine,  the  elder,  Lieutenant- 
Governor  Gushing,  James  Bowdoin,  Cotton  Mather,  Samuel 
Adams,  Sir  William  Peppered,  and  a  host  of  names  famous  in 
our  history,  prepared  here  for  future  high  stations. 

The  early  masters  were  men  of  erudition  and  high  consider- 
ation in  the  town.  Ezekiel  Cheever  ranks  at  the  head  of  the 
old  pedagogues.  He  was  one  of  the  founders  of  New  Haven, 
and  a  teacher  for  seventy  years  at  New  Haven,  Ipswich,  Charles- 
town,  and  Boston. 

John  Lovell  presided  over  the  school,  as  usher  and  principal, 
from  1717  until  1775,  when  the  siege  put  an  end  to  it  for  a 
time.  He  decamped  with  the  Loyalists  in  1776.  He  delivered 
the  first  public  address  in  Faneuil  Hall  on  the  death  of  its 
founder.  Lovell's  house  adjoined  the  new  school,  and  after  the 
evacuation  General  Gage's  coach  and  phaeton,  with  harness 
entire,  were  found  there. 

Of  the  school  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  which,  till 
1844,  stood  on  the  site  of  the  Parker  House,  many  distinguished 
Bustonians  have  been  pupils,  among  whom  Harrison  Gray  Otis, 
Lev.  Dr.  Jenks,  L.  C.  Winthrop,  Charles  Sumner,  and  the 
sculptor  Greenough  are  conspicuous. 

The  Centre  "Writing  School  was  built  in  1790,  on  the  north 
side  of  School  Street.  It  was  a  two-story  wooden  building,  and 
was  pulled  down  in  1812,  as  it  then  obstructed  the  front  of  the 
new  Court  House.  This  was  the  school  of  Master  James  Car- 
ter. The  pupils  were  accommodated  by  an  enlargement  of  the 
Latin  School. 

The  statue  in  bronze  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  in  the  grounds 
3* 


08  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

of  the  City  Hall,  is  by  Richard  S.  Greenough,  and  was  cast  hy 
the  Ames  Manufacturing  Company  at  Chicopee,'Mass.  It  is 
eight  feet  high,  and  stands  on  a  pedestal  of  granite,  capped 
with  a  block  of  vercl  antique  marble.  Four  bas-reliefs  represent 
different  periods  of  Franklin's  career.  It  was  publicly  inaugu- 
rated September  17,  1856.    ■ 

When  Franklin  worked  in  the  printing-office  of  Mr.  "Watts, 
Little  Wihl  Street,  London,  he  was  called  by  his  fellow-work- 
men the  "  Water  American,"  because  he  refused  to  drink  any- 
thing else,  while  they  drank  their  five  pints  of  beer  apiece  daily. 
When  he  went  to  England  afterwards,  as  agent  for  Massachu- 
setts, he  went  into  this  office,  and  going  up  to  a  particular 
press  (now  in  this  country),  said  to  the  two  workmen,  "  Come, 
my  friends,  Ave  will  drink  together.  It  is  now  forty  years  since 
I  worked  like  you  at  this  press,  a  journeyman  printer." 

Franklin's  celebrated  toast  at  Versailles  will  not  lose  by  repe- 
tition. At  the  conclusion  of  the  war  he,  with  the  English 
Ambassador,  was  dining  with  the  French  Minister  Vergennes ; 
a  toast  from  each  was  called  for.  The  British  minister  began 
with,  "George  III.,  who,  like  the  sun  in  its  meridian,  spreads 
a  lustre  throughout  and  enlightens  the  world."  The  French 
ambassador  followed  with,  "  Louis  XVI.,  who,  like  the  moon, 
sheds  its  mild  and  benignant  rays  on  and  illumines  the 
world."  Our  American  Franklin  then  gave,  "  George  "Wash- 
ington, commander  of  the  American  armies,  who,  like  Joshua 
of  old,  commanded  the  sun  and  moon  to  stand  still,  and  they 
obeyed  him." 

The  City  Hall  stands  on  ground  sold  to  the  town  by  Thomas 
Scotto  in  1645.  The  foundation  of  the  present  building  was 
laid  in  1862  with  appropriate  ceremonies.  It  is  built  of  Con- 
cord granite,  and  was  designed  by  Messrs.  Bryant  and  Gilman. 
The  first  Town  House  was  erected  between  1657-59,  at  the 
head  of  State  Street,  of  wood,  where  the  Old  State  House  now 
stands.  A  legacy  had  been  left  by  Captain  Robert  Keayne, 
in  1656,  for  this  purpose,  which  was  supplemented  by  sub- 
scriptions from  Governors  Endicott,  Bellingham,  and  others. 
This  building  was  consumed  in  the  fire  of  1711 ;  another,  budt 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood. 


59 


of  brick  in  1712,  was  burnt  in  1747,  with  the  early  books, 
records,  and  valuable  papers.  In  1748  the  Town  House  was 
rebuilt.  Faneuil  Hall  was  also  used  as  a  Town  House  for 
nearly  eighty  years,  and  the  first  city  government  was  organized 
there.     In  1830  the  city  government  removed  to  the  Old  State 


THE   OLD   COURT   HOUSE   AND   CITY   HALL. 


House,  which  was,  on  September  17,  dedicated  as  the  City 
Hall.  In  1840  the  old  County  Court  House,  on  the  present 
site,  was  remodelled  for  a  City  Hall,  and  continued  to  be  so 
until  the  erection  of  the  present  building  and  dedication  in 
1865. 

Our  view  of  the  Old  Court  House  is  taken  from  School  Street, 
and  shows  how  the  building  and  surroundings  appeared  in 
1812.  In  the  left  foreground  is  Barristers'  Hall,  and  to  the 
ri^ht  the  wall  and  enclosure  of  Dr.  Samuel  Clarke's  house  is 


The  County  Court  House,  referred  to  as  occupying  this  site, 
was  built  in  1810,  of  granite.  The  main  building  was  octago- 
nal, with  wings  at  each  side.  It  was  one  hundred  and  I'urty 
feet  long,  and  was  occupied  by  the  offices  of  Probate.  Registry 
of  Deeds,  and  the  County  Courts.  This  building  was  called 
Johnson  Hall,   in   honor  of   Isaac  Johnson,   tradition   having 


60  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

ascribed  to  this  spot  the  location  of  his  house,  —  a  name  which 
does  not  seem  to  have  been  generally  adopted. 

Next  the  county  property,  in  17G0,  once  lived  one  of  the 
greatest  of  the  ante-Revolutionary  patriots,  James  Otis,  "whose 
electric  eloquence  was  like  the  ethereal  flash  that  quenched  its 
fire."  Otis  came  to  Boston  when  he  was  twenty-five,  in  1 750, 
and  in  1761  made  the  famous  speech  against  the  "Writs  of 
Assistance."  Some  severe  strictures  which  he  made  upon  the 
officers  of  customs  resulted  in  an  attack  on  him  at  the  British 
Coffee  House  in  King  Street,  by  John  Robinson,  a  commis- 
sioner of  customs,  and  others.  Otis  was  severely  injured,  and 
received  a  deep  cut  on  the  head,  which  ultimately  contributed 
to  cause  his  insanity.  As  an  instance  of  the  magnanimity  of 
Otis,  he  refused  the  damages  awarded  him  by  the  court,  upon 
receiving  an  apology  from  his  assailant.  In'  1769  Otis  was 
causing  the  greatest  concern  to  his  friends  for  the  increasing 
symptoms  he  gave  of  coming  mental  aberration.  John  Adams 
says  of  him  :  "  I  fear,  I  tremble,  I  mourn  for  the  man  and  his 
country ;  many  others  mourn  over  him  with  tears  in  their 
eyes."  Otis  withdrew  to  the  country  in  1770,  and,  after  a 
brief  lucid  period,  during  which  he  resumed  practice  in  Bos- 
ton, he  was  killed  at  Andover  in  May,  1783,  by  a  stroke  of 
lightning,  at  the  age  of  fifty-eight. 

Next  the  residence  of  Otis,  where  Niles's  Block  now  is,  was 
the  house  of  Jean  Paul  Mascarene,  a  French  Huguenot  of  Lan- 
guedoc.  He  went  to  England  and  entered  the  army,  coming 
in  1711  to  Nova  Scotia,  of  which  he  became  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  and  ultimately  rose  to  the  rank  of  Major-General. 
He  died  in  Boston  in  1760.  The  house  was  of  two  stories, 
of  brick,  and  painted  white.  The  Mascarene  family  were  loyal- 
ists, and  retired  to  Nova  Scotia  when  the  Revolution  began. 

Dr.  John  Warren,  the  youngest  brother  of  Joseph  Warren, 
killed  at  Bunker  Hill,  next  occupied  the  premises.  The  old 
house  and  gardens  are  still  remembered  by  many.  Dr.  Warren 
served  in  the  American  army  as  hospital  surgeon,  and  was  long 
the  most  eminent  surgeon  in  New  England.  On  the  day  of 
Bunker  Hill,  the  anxiety  of  the  doctor  for  his  brother  led  him 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  61 

to  attempt  to  pass  a  guard,  who  gave  him  a  bayonet  wound,  the 
mark  of  which  he  carried  to  his  grave.  Dr.  Warren  was  the 
father  of  Dr.  John  C.  Warren,  scarcely  less  eminent  in  his  pro- 
fession than  his  father.  The  old  doctor  died  in  1815,  and  was 
buried  from  King's  Chapel,  Dr.  James  Jackson  delivering  the 
eulogy.  Both  Joseph  and  John  Warren  were  born  in  the  old 
wooden  house  on  Warren  Street,  in  what  was  formerly  Eox- 
bury.  The  original  mansion,  being  ruinous,  was  rebuilt  on 
the  site  of  the  old  in  1846,  partly  of  the  old  materials,  by  Dr. 
John  C.  Warren.  Many  a  pilgrimage  is  paid  to  the  birthplace 
of  the  hero  who  placed  himself,  against  the  advice  of  friends, 
in  the  post  of  honor  and  of  danger. 

The  Cromwell's  Head,  a  famous  tavern,  was  on  the  spot 
where  the  building  numbered  19  now  stands,  which  is  to-day, 
as  of  yore,  devoted  to  the  replenishing  of  the  inner  man.  It 
was  kept  by  Anthony  Brackett  in  1760,  by  his  widow  from 
1764  to  1768;  and  later  by  Joshua  Brackett.  Its  repute  was 
good,  for  we  find  the  Marquis  Chastellux  alighting  there  in 
1782,  before  paying  his  respects  to  M.  de  Vaudreuil,  com- 
mander of  the  French  fleet  that  was  to  convey  away  Eocham- 
beau's  army. 

The  sign  of  this  hostelry  was  the  effigy  of  the  Lord  Protector 
Cromwell,  and  it  is  said  hung  so  low  that  all  who  passed  were 
compelled  to  make  an  involuntary  reverence.  The  royal  officers 
would  not  allow  it  to  remain ;  it  was  too  suggestive  of  the 
overthrow  of  kingly  authority  ;  but  Brackett,  in  whose  eyes 
this  circumstance  gave  it  additional  value,  replaced  it  after  the 
evacuation.  Mine  host  Brackett's  carte  is  surmounted  by  a 
facsimile  of  the  sign,  from  a  plate  by  Paul  Revere,  and  shows 
that  besides  board,  lodging  and  eating,  one  might  have  wine, 
punch,  porter,  and  liquor,  with  due  care  for  his  beast,  for 
certain  pounds,  shillings,  and  pence.  Brackett's,  no  doubt, 
commanded  the  patronage  of  his  neighbors  we  have  been 
noting.  Bare  Ben  Jonson's  lines  might  have  been  a  trumpet- 
call  to  his  votaries,  — 

"  Wine  is  the  word  that  flails  the  heart  of  man, 
And  mine  'a  the  house  of  wine.     Sack  says  my  bush, 
Be  merry  and  drink  sherry,  that  's  my  posie." 


02 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


But  mine  host  of  Cromwell's  Head  had  in  1756  a  more  dis- 
tinguished guest,  for  in  that  year  lieutenant-Colonel  Washing- 
ton visited  Boston  accompanied  hy  Captain  George  Mercer  of 
Virginia  and  Captain  Stewart.  He  came  to  refer  a  question  of 
command  to  General  Shirley  who  had  succeeded  Braddock  in 
the  military  control  of  the  colonies.  This  was  after  the  disas- 
trous campaign  that  ended  in  Braddock's  defeat.  Washington's 
next  visit  was  with  the  commission  of  the  Continental  Congress 
as  commander-in-chief. 

The  corner  familiarly  known  as  the  "  Old  Corner  Book- 
Store,"  where  have  gathered  the  disciples  of  black-letter  and 


THE   OLD   CORNER   BOOKSTORE. 


red-line  for  so  many  years,  is  probably  the  oldest  brick  build- 
ing standing  in  Boston.  It  bears  the  date  of  1712,  and  its 
erection  is  supposed  to  have  occurred  soon  after  the  great  fire 
of  1711.  Shurtleff  has  given  its  various  occupants  in  detail, 
but  aside  from  its  literary  associations  the  corner  has  oidy  a 
single  historical  incident. 

Anne    Hutchinson,    who    fills  a  chapter  in  the    history  of 
Boston    commemorative    of  the    ecclesiastical   tyranny   of    its 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  63 

founders,  lived  here  about  1634.  She  was  the  leader  of  the 
sect  of  Antinomians,  and  daughter  of  Lev.  Francis  Marbury  of 
London,  —  an  ancestor  of  Governor  Thomas  Hutchinson,  and 
rector  of  several  London  parishes.  Her  mother  was  great 
aunt  of  John  Dryden  the  poet.  She  was  a  woman  of  con- 
summate ability  and  address,  for  Ave  learn  that  Lev.  John 
Cotton  was  ensnared  by  her,  while  Winthrop  wavered.  The 
latter,  however,  became  her  bitter  enemy,  and  pursued  her  with 
great  vindictiveness.  For  a  time  she  had  all  Boston  by  the 
ears,  and  even  public  business  halted. 

Islebius,  a  German,  apjjears  to  have  founded  the  sect  of 
Antinomians  about  1600.  It  held  the  "law  of  Moses  to  be 
unprofitable,  and  that  there  is  no  sin  in  children."  "  Mistris 
Hutchison,"  as  Governor  "Winthrop  calls  her,  after  a  two  days' 
trial  was  banished  in  1638,  and  went  to  Rhode  Island,  the 
haven  of  religious  refugees.  Going  afterwards  to  New  York, 
she  fell  a  victim  to  an  Indian  foray.  Her  followers  in  Boston, 
a  numerous  faction,  were  disarmed.  Winthrop  says  "  she  was 
a  woman  of  haughty  and  fierce  carriage,  a  nimble  wit  and 
active  spirit,  a  very  voluble  tongue,  more  bold  than  a  man. 
though  in  understanding  and  judgment  inferior  to  many 
women." 

At  the  conclusion  of  Mrs.  Hutchinson's  trial  she  was 
addressed  by  Governor  "Winthrop  as  follows  :  — 

"  Mrs.  Hutchinson  !  the  sentence  of  the  court  you  hear  is, 
that  you  are  banished  from  out  of  our  jurisdiction,  as  being  a 
woman  not  fit  for  our  society,  and  are  to  be  imprisoned  'til 
the  court  shall  send  you  away." 

Mrs.  II.   "I  desire  to  know  wherefore  I  am  banished." 

Winthrop.  "Say  no  more;  the  court  know  wherefore,  and 
is  satisfied." 

Just  before  you  come  to  the  Universalist  Church,  ascending 
School  Street  towards  Tremont,  was  the  little  church  of  the 
French  Huguenots  of  Boston.  This  was  the  church  of  the  Fan- 
euils,  Baudoins,  Boutineaus,  Sigourneys,  and  Johonnots;  their 
names  are  not  quite  extinct  among  us,  although  the  orthography 
may  be  changed  in  some  instances.     The  church  was  built  of 


64  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

brick,  about  1704,  was  very  small,  and  for  a  long  time  its 
erection  was  opposed  by  tbe  town.  Before  building,  the 
French  occupied  one  of  the  school-houses.  Queen  Anne 
presented  a  large  folio  Bible  to  this  church,  which  afterwards 
fell  into  the  possession  of  Mather  Byles  ;  and  Andrew  Faneuil 
gave  in  his  will  three  pieces  of  plate  for  communion  and 
baptism,  besides  his  warehouse  in  King  Street.  Pierre  Daille 
was  the  first  minister,  deceased  in  1715,  and  was  succeeded  by 
Le  Mercier.  A  singular  incident  led  to  the  discovery  of  Daille's 
gravestone.  While  laborers  Avere  excavating  a  cellar  on  the 
Emmons  estate  on  Pleasant  Street  they  suddenly  uncovered 
the  stone  which  bore  the  following  inscription  :  — 

Here  lyes  y"  body  of  y' 
Reverend  Mr.  Peter 
Daille  minister  of  y* 
French  church  in 
Boston  died  the 
21  of  May  1715 
In  the  67  year 
Of         his        age. 

After  the  dissolution  of  the  society,  the  house  of  the  French 
Church  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Eleventh  Congregational  So- 
ciety, which  arose  during  the  excitement  caused  by  the  coming 
of  Whitefield.  Mr.  Crosswell  was  the  pastor,  dying  in  1785, 
when  the  house  passed  to  the  Eoman  Catholics.  Mass  was 
first  celebrated  in  the  church  in  November,  1788.  It  was 
removed  in  1802. 

The  Second  Universalist  Church  stands  next  west  of  the 
French  Church  site,  and  like  it  is  soon  to  disappear  from  the 
historic  street.  It  was  erected  in  1817,  after  preliminary 
action  in  the  preceding  year  by  a  meeting  held  at  the  Green 
Dragon  Tavern.  It  was  much  enlarged  and  improved  in  1837, 
and  entirely  remodelled  in  1851.  Eev.  Hosea  Ballou  was 
the  first  pastor.  Eev.  E.  H.  Chapin  preached  here  from 
1846  to  1848,  when  he  removed  to  New  York,  where  he  is  still 
one  of  the  most  eloquent  divines  of  the  metropolis. 

Province  Street  received  its  name  in  1833,  from  its  vicinity 
to  the  Province  House.     Before  that  time  it  was  Governor's  Al- 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  65 

ley.  Chapman  Place  was  Cooke's  Court,  from  Elisha  Cooke,  a 
resident  of  colonial  times,  who  was  agent  with  Increase  Mather 
in  England  to  obtain  a  new  charter  for  the  colony.  The  house 
of  Elisha  Cooke  becomes  distinguished  as  the  residence  of  Gov- 
ernor Burnet  until  the  Province  House  coidd  be  made  ready. 
The  house  was  a  two-story  brick,  with  dormer  windows,  and 
faced  the  east.     In  front  was  a  small  court-yard. 

Loring,  in  the  "  Hundred  Boston  Orators,"  says  :  "  The  res- 
idence of  James  Lovell  during  the  Revolution  was  on  the 
estate,  where  Chapman  Hall  is  now  located,  and  his  family  wit- 
nessed, on  the  house-top,  the  burning  of  Charlestown  during 
the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  While  Mr.  Lovell  was  impris- 
oned in  the  Boston  jail,  in  Queen  Street,  in  consequence  of 
General  Howe  having  discovered  a  prohibited  correspondence, 
proving  his  adherence  to  the  Revolutionary  cause,  his  devoted 
wife  was  daily  accustomed  to  convey  his  food  to  the  prison 
door."  Chapman  Hall  was  in  Chapman  Place,  and  is  now  suc- 
ceeded by  the  Parker  House. 

James  was  a  son  of  that  Master  Lovell  of  whom  mention 
has  been  made.  He  had  been  usher  of  that  school,  and  master  of 
what  is  now  the  Eliot  School.  He  was  among  the  prominent 
Revolutionary  patriots,  and  had  first  been  imprisoned  and  finally 
carried  to  Halifax  on  the  evacuation.  After  being  exchanged 
in  1776,  Master  Lovell  became  a  member  of  the  Continental 
Congress;  was  receiver  of  taxes  in  1784,  and  after  being  Col- 
lector of  the  port,  was  for  a  long  time  Naval  Officer.  His  son 
married  Helen,  one  of  Mr.  Sheaffe's  handsome  daughters. 

Besides  having  replaced  the  Latin  School,  the  Parker  House 
also  occupies  the  ground  where  there  long  remained  an  old  brick 
mansion,  erected  early  in  the  last  century  by  Jacob  Wendell. 
He  was  a  wealthy  merchant,  and  colonel  of  the  Boston  Regi- 
ment in  1745  ;  afterwards  a  councillor,  and  a  director  in  the 
first  banking  institution  in  the  province.  His  son  Oliver,  also 
a  leading  Bostonian,  was  the  grandfather  of  Oliver  Wendell 
Holmes,  the  only  "autocrat"  who  has  ever  flourished  in 
Boston. 

Oliver  Wendell  was,  like  his  father,  a  leading  merchant  of 

E 


66  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Boston.  He  "was  a  selectman  during  the  siege,  and  joined  in 
the  congratulatory  address  to  Washington  when  it  was  termi- 
nated l>y  the  evacuation.  The  following  original  document 
shows  us  that  Wendell  was  trusted  by  the  commander-in-chief: — 

The  United  States  of  America  to  the  Subscribers  Dr. 

To  one  month's  services  by  Land  and  Sea,  from  March,  25th  1776, 
to  April  25th,  Strictly  watching  the  communication  from  the  Town 
of  Boston  to  the  British  fleet  Laying  in  Nantasket  Road  in  Order 
to  apprehend  and  seize  any  British  Spies  who  might  have  Concealed 
themselves  in  the  Town  hi  order  to  Carry  Intelligence  to  our  Enemies 
of  the  Proceedings  of  the  American  Troops  then  hi  the  Town  of 
Boston,  by  Order  of  Major  Generall  Greene. 
Thirty  Days  Each  man  at  12/  p  Day  is  £  108.  — 

Benj    Wheeler 
Benja  Barnard 
Andrew  Symmes  Jr 
Joshua  Bentley 
John  Champney 
Thomas  Tileston 
Rec  the  within  Contents  in  full 

Oliver  Wendell 

The  following  is  indorsed  on  the  back  :  — 

Pay  unto  Oliver  Wendal  Esquire  one  hundred  eight  pounds 
Lawful  money  for  the  use  of  the  signers  of  the  within  account,  he 
being  employed  by  Major  General  Greene  by  my  order  to  engage  a 
number  of  persons  for  the  within  service  in  March  1776  when  the 
Enemy  evacuated  Boston. 

Given  under  my  hand  at 

Camp  Fredericksburg  Novem  12  1778 
Hon  Major  )  G.  Washington 

Genl.  Gates  J 

To  Ebenezer  Hancock  Esq  Paymaster  Genl 

Eastern  Department 
Sir,  —  Pay  the  above  sum  of  one  hundred  and  eight  pounds  Law- 
ful money  to  Oliver  Wendell  Esq  hi  consequence  of  the  above  order 
for  which  this  with  his  receipt  shall  be  your  sufficient  Warrant     By 
the  Generals  command  Horatio  Gates 

John  Armstrong  Jr 

Aid  de  Camp  Head  Quarters  25th  November  1778 

Joseph  Green,  beyond  comparison  the  keenest  wit  of  his 


king's  chapel  and  the  neighborhood.  67 

time,  lived  in  School  Street.     He  was  a  merchant,  —  Dr.  Byles 

terms  him  a  distiller,  —  and  accumulated  a  handsome  property. 

He  was  the  general  satirist,  epic,  and  epitaph  writer  of  his  day, 

and  wielded  a  trenchant  pen,  of  which  none  stood  more  in  awe 

than  Governor  Belcher.     His  epitaph  on  the  countryman  whose 

forte  was  raking  hay,  in  which  he  excelled  all  but  his  employer, 

is  as  follows  :  — 

"  He  could  rake  hay  ;  none  could  rake  faster, 
Except  that  raking  dog  his  master." 

Green,  who  was  well  advanced  in  life  when  the  Revolutionary 
struggle  begun,  removed  to  England,  where  he  engaged  in  busi- 
ness, residing  in  the  parish  of  St.  Andrew,  Holborn,  London. 
He  died  in  London  in  1780.  There  is  a  portrait  of  Joseph 
Green,  by  Copley,  in  the  possession  of  Bev.  W.  T.  Snow  of 
Jamaica  Plain.  Green  often  run  a  tilt  with  Mather  B}des, 
unhorsing  his  clerical  opponent  with  his  goose-quill  lance.  His 
residence  was  between  the  house  of  Dr.  Warren  and  the  Crom- 
well's Head. 


G8  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


CHAPTER    II. 

FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK. 

Hanover  Street.  —  General  Warren.  —  The  Orange-Tree.  —  Concert  Hall.  — 
Brattle  Street.  —  Samuel  Gore.  —  John  Smibert.  —  Nathaniel  Smibert.  — 
Colonel  Trumbull.- — The  Adelphi. — Scollay's  Buildings  and  Square. 
■ —  Queen  Street  Writing  School.  —  Master  James  Carter.  —  C'onihill.  — 
Brattle  Street  Parsonage.  —  Old  Prison.  —  Captain  Kidd.  —  Court 
Houses.  —  Franklin   Avenue.  —  Kneeland.  —  Franklin.  —  Edes   and  Gill. 

—  Green  and  Russell.  — ■  First  Book  and  Newspaper  printed  in  Boston.  — 
Rufus  Choate.  —  Governor  Leverett.  —  John  A.  Andrew.  —  Henry  Dun- 
ster.  —  Town  Pump.  —  Old  Brick.  —  General  Knox.  —  Count  Rumford. 

—  John  Winslow. 

STANDING  at  the  head  of  Hanover  Street,  we  are  sensible 
that  improvement  has  ploughed  a  broad  furrow  through 
the  North  End.  Away  before  us  stretches  a  broad  avenue, 
where  once  vehicles  passed  each  other  with  difficulty.  As  the 
old  street  was,  there  were  places  where  it  was  no  great  feat 
to  jump  across.  This  was  the  old  highway  from  Winnisini- 
met  Ferry  to  Treamount  Street,  first  called  Orange-Tree  Lane, 
from  the  tavern  at  its  head.  Hanover  Street  extended  at  first 
only  from  Court  to  Blackstone  Streets.  Why  this  name,  a  per- 
petual reminder  of  a  detested  House,  should  have  been  re- 
tained, when  Queen  retired  before  Court,  and  King  succumbed 
to  State,  we  cannot  otherwise  answer  than  by  supposing  the 
changes  during  the  Revolution  spasmodic,  rather  than  syste- 
matic efforts  of  republicanism. 

As  we  look  down  this  street,  a  little  way  on  our  left  stands 
the  American  House.  On  the  ground  it  covers  lived  that  early 
martyr  to  American  freedom,  General  Joseph  Warren,  who  in 
1761,  after  his  marriage,  took  up  his  residence  and  the  practice 
of  medicine  on  this  spot.  He  went  to  Brattle  Street  Church, 
near  by.  In  1774,  while  the  "  Boston  Port  Bill "  was  in  oper- 
ation, there  was  a  good  deal  of  suffering  in  consequence  of  the 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     69 

closing  of  the  port,  and  at  this  time  Colonel  Putnam,  better 
known  as  "  Old  Put,"  came  to  Boston  Avith  a  drove  of  sheep 
for  the  inhabitants,  and  was  Warren's  guest. 

It  was  "Warren  who  caused  the  alarm  to  be  given  of  the 
British  expedition  to  Concord,  by  sending  Paul  Revere  on  his 
famous  night  ride,  and  gave  timely  warning  to  Hancock  and 
Adams.  There  are  many  stories  of  the  manner  of  Warren's  death 
at  Bunker  Hill,  some  of  them  highly  colored.  He  was  killed 
after  the  retreat  began,  a  little  way  in  the  rear  of  the  famous 
redoubt.  General  Howe,  who  knew  Warren  well,  said  his 
death  was  equal  to  the  loss  of  five  hundred  men.  Colonel 
John  Trumbull,  who,  when  in  England  in  178G,  painted  his 
picture  of  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  gives  the  following  rela- 
tion of  the  fall  of  Warren  by  Colonel  Small,  who  was  on  the 
field,  and  is  represented  by  Trumbull  endeavoring  to  save  the 
life  of  Warren  :  — 

"  At  the  moment  when  the  troops  succeeded  in  carrying  the 
redoubt,  and  the  Americans  were  in  full  retreat,  General  Howe, 
who  had  been  wounded  by  a  spent  ball,  was  leaning  on  my  arm. 
He  called  suddenly  to  me,  'Do  you  see  that  elegant  young  man 
who  has  just  fallen?'  I  looked  to  the  spot  to  which  he  pointed. 
'Good  God!'  he  exclaimed,  'I  believe  it  is  my  friend  Warren  ; 
leave  me  then  instantly,  —  run,  —  keep  off  the  troops,  —  save  him 
if  possible  ! '  I  flew  to  the  spot.  '  My  dear  friend,'  I  said  to  him, 
'  I  hope  you  are  not  badly  hurt.'  He  looked  up,  seemed  to  recol- 
lect, smiled,  and  died.  A  musket-hall  had  passed  through  the 
upper  part  of  his  head." 

The  body  lay  on  the  field  until  the  next  day,  when  it  was 
recognized  by  Dr.  Jeffries  and  John  Winslow  of  Boston,  and 
interred  on  the  spot  where  he  fell.  General  Howe's  solicitude 
does  not  seem  to  have  extended  to  Warren's  remains,  which, 
however,  received  a  soldier's  burial.  After  the  evacuation  the 
body  was  disinterred  and  deposited  in  King's  Chapel,  and  sub- 
sequently in  St.  Paul's,  Tremont  Street.  The  ball  which  killed 
Warren  is  now  in  possession  of  William  H.  Montague  of  Boston. 
It  is  a  common  ounce  musket-ball,  and  does  not  look  at  all 
flattened.  It  must  ever  appear  unaccountable  why  General 
Ward,  at  Cambridge,  did  not  attempt  to  recover  the  body  of 


70  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

the  President  of  the  Provincial  Congress.  The  usages  of  war 
must  have  been  well  known  to  him,  and  Howe  was  hot  the  man 
to  refuse  the  request. 

Thus  died  in  "  the  imminent  deadly  breach  "  the  young  hero 
at  the  early  age  of  thirty -four.  President  of  the  Committee  of 
Safety,  of  the  Provincial  Congress,  and  Major-General,  he 
declined  the  command  at  Bunker  Hill,  taking  the  place  of  a 
common  soldier.  Deeply  hurt  by  the  reflections  cast  upon  the 
courage  of  his  countrymen,  he  is  said  to  have  exclaimed,  "  I 
hope  I  shall  die  up  to  my  knees  in  blood."  To  the  remon- 
strances of  his  friend,  Elbridge  Gerry,  who  begged  him  not  to 
go  to  Bunker  Hill,  Warren  replied,  "  Dulce  et  decorum  est  pro 
patria  mori" 

Adjoining  the  American  House  on  the  west  are  Codman's 
Buildings,  covering  the  ground  where  stood  the  famous  Earl's 
Coffee  House  in  bygone  days.  It  was  established  in  1806,  and 
was  the  headquarters  of  the  New  York,  Albany,  and  other  mail 
coaches. 

"  Go  call  a  coach,  and  let  a  coach  be  called." 

On  the  north  corner  of  Hanover  Street  was  the  Orange-Tree 
Tavern,  which  designated  the  northerly  end  of  Treamount  Street 
in  1732,  and  beginning  of  Hanover  Street  in  1708.  It  contin- 
ued a  tavern  until  1785,  when  it  was  advertised  to  be  sold. 
The  name  was  from  the  sign  of  an  orange-tree,  and  the  inn  was 
noted  for  the  best  well  of  water  in  the  town,  —  never  dry  nor 
known  to  freeze.  Here  was  the  first  hackney-coach  stand  we 
have  an  account  of,  set  up  by  Jonathan  Wardwell,  keeper  of 
the  Orange-Tree,  hi  1712.  He  was  succeeded  by  ]\Irs.  Ward- 
well,  who  kept  the  house  in  1724. 

Concert  Hall,  of  which  a  considerable  moiety  is  now  in  the 
street,  was  on  the  southerly  corner,  and  was  also  a  tavern,  kept, 
in  1792,  by  James  Vila.  The  site  was  first  known  as  Houchin's 
Corner,  from  a  tanner  of  that  name  who  occupied  it.  The 
building  was  of  brick,  though  it  underwent  various  alterations 
until  torn  down  in  1869,  to  make  way  for  the  widening  of 
Hanover  Street.  Concert  Hall  was  owned  by  the  family  of 
Deblois  until  1679.     Before  the  Eevolution  it  was  a  resort  of  the 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     71 

Friends  of  Liberty,  and  as  early  as  1755,  after  the  installation 
of  Jeremy  Gridley  as  Grand  Master  of  the  Masons  in  North 
America,  it  was  used  by  the  Grand  Lodge  for  occasions  of 
meeting  or  festivity,  and  continued  to  be  so  used  until  the 
present  century.  Here  have  met  Gridley,  the  Warrens,  Revere, 
Tomlinson,  Oxnard,  Webb,  and  others.  Here  Captain  Preston 
was  dallying  on  the  evening  of  the  fatal  5th  of  March,  1770, 
when  he  was  summoned  in  hot  haste  to  begin  the  first  act  of 
the  great  conflict  of  the  American  Revolution.  The  American 
prisoners  captured  at  Bunker  Hill  are  said  to  have  been  tried 
by  a  military  court  in  Concert  Hall.  In  1768  the  obnoxious 
Commissioners  of  Customs  ventured  to  return  from  the  Castle, 
while  the  town  was  under  the  control  of  the  newly  arrived 
British  troops,  and  had  an  office  here,  witli  a  sentinel  at  the 
door.  And  here  came  Samuel  Adams  and  James  Otis  to  re- 
monstrate with  them. 

According  to  the  "News  Letter,"  concerts  were  held  in  the  old 
hall  as  early  as  January,  1755,  when  "a  concert  of  musick  " 
was  advertised  to  take  place  there,  tickets  at  four  shillings  each. 
Governor  Hancock  gave,  in  1778,  a  grand  ball  in  Concert  Hall 
to  the  officers  of  D'Estaing's  fleet,  at  which  three  hundred  per- 
sons were  present.  The  Society  of  the  Cincinnati  also  held 
meetings  in  this  hall,  and  the  Massachusetts  Mechanic  Char- 
itable Association  had  their  first  meetings  therein.  Peter  B. 
Brigham  was  for  about  forty  years  mine  host  of  Concert  Hall. 

A  little  east  of  Concert  Hall  on  Hanover  Street  lived  William 
Cooper,  Town  Clerk  of  Boston  for  nearly  half  a  century.  His 
term  embraced  the  Revolutionary  period,  during  which  he  was 
an  ardent  friend  of  the  Whig  cause.  He  was  a  brother  of  the 
patriotic  pastor  of  Old  Brattle  Street  Church. 

Brattle  Street  was  opened  in  1819,  from  Court  Street  to  the 
Church.  Before  this  it  was  a  narrow  way,  known  first  as  Ilil- 
lier's  Lane,  and  sometimes  as  Belknap's,  and  as  Gay  Alley. 
Looking  towards  the  ruins  of  the  old  church  we  notice,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  street,  a  continuous  row  of  fourteen  buildings, 
uniform  in  their  general  appearance.  This  was  the  first  block 
of  stone  buildings  erected  in  Boston. 


72  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

At  the  head  of  Brattle  Street  lived  Samuel  Gore,  elder  brother 
of  Christopher,  afterwards  governor  of  the  Commonwealth. 
Gore  was  a  painter,  and  was  one  of  those  stout-hearted  mechanics 
who  furnished  the  muscle  of  the  Revolution  while  Adams  and 
Otis  supplied  the  brain.  One  of  the  Tea  Party  of  1773,  (Jure 
was  one  of  those  who  seized  the  two  brass  guns,  Hancock  and 
Adams,  from  the  gun-house  in  Tremont  Street,  and  conveyed 
them  to  the  American  lines  under  the  very  eyes  of  the  British. 
These  two  guns  are  now  in  Bunker  Hill  Monument. 

The  celebrated  Scotch  painter,  John  Smibert,  owned  and 
occupied  the  premises  between  Brattle  Street  and  Cornhill  in 
1743,  having  acquired  part  through  his  marriage  with  Mary 
"Williams  of  Boston,  and  part  by  purchase.  The  biographers 
have  but  little  to  say  about  this  pioneer  of  the  fine  arts  in 
America.  He  was  before  "West  or  Copley,  and  is  said  to  have 
influenced  the  works  of  the  latter,  as  well  as  those  of  Allston 
and  Trumbull. 

Smibert  must  have  had  a  large  and  lucrative  custom,  for  he  was 
possessed  of  property  in  Boston  and  Boxbury,  which  he  bought 
from  time  to  time,  and  at  his  decease  left  in  his  studio  thirty- 
five  portraits,  valued  by  the  appraisers  at  £  60  5s.  &d.  Thirteen 
"landskips"  were  estimated  at  the  moderate  sum  of  £  2  13s., 
while  four  historical  pieces,  "  and  pictures  in  that  taste,"  were 
considered  worth  £16.  Two  conversation  pictures,  whatever 
they  may  have  been,  were  thoiight  worth  £  23  6s.  Sd.  His 
negro  girl,  Phillis,  went  for  £  26  13s.  id.  He  kept  his  horses 
and  chaise,  in  which  he  used  to  take  his  wife,  Mary  Smibert,  to 
Lynde  Street  Church  to  hear  good  Dr.  Hooper. 

Smibert  came  over  to  America  in  1728  with  the  Dean,  after- 
wards Bishop  Berkeley,  settling  in  Boston  in  1730.  The  largest 
known  work  of  Smibert's  in  this  country  is  his  picture  of 
Berkeley  and  family,  in  which  the  portrait  of  the  artist  is  intro- 
duced. This  painting  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Yale  College. 
His  portrait  of  Jonathan  Edwards  is  said  to  be  the  only  one 
extant  of  that  learned  and  eminent  divine. 

[Nathaniel  Smibert,  son  of  John,  took  up  the  profession  of 
his  father.     He  went  to  the  Latin  School,  under  Master  Lovell, 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     73 

in  his  early  youth,  but  soon  turned  to  his  father's  brush  and 
easel,  with  the  promise  of  making  a  finished  artist,  but  died  at 
the  early  age  of  twenty-one,  deeply  regretted  by  all  who  knew 
him. 

Colonel  John  Trumbull,  aide-de-camp  to  Washington  during 
the  siege,  retired  in  disgust  from  the  service  in  1777,  on  account 
of  the  date  of  an  appointment  to  the  rank  of  colonel,  by  Gates, 
being  rejected  by  Congress.  He  then  resumed  his  study  of 
painting  in  Boston,  amidst  the  works  of  Copley,  and  in  the 
room  which  had  been  built  by  Smibert,  and  in  which  remained 
many  of  his  works.  Governor  Hancock  sat  for  his  portrait  to 
Trumbull  while  the  latter  Avas  in  Boston.  Hancock  was  presi- 
dent of  the  Congress  which  ignored  Trumbull's  rank,  and  had 
also  spoken  rather  slightly  of  his  family  being  well  cared  for  by 
the  government,  on  seeing  the  latter  at  the  headcpiarters  of 
Washington.  Trumbull  was  stung  by  the  ungenerous  remark, 
and  when,  after  having  served  as  a  volunteer  in  the  expedition 
to  Bhode  Island  in  1778,  he  fell  ill  on  his  return,  he  at  first  re- 
pelled the  advances  of  Governor  Hancock,  who,  by  considerate 
attentions,  repaired  his  original  offence.  Trumbull  was  a  histor- 
ical painter.  The  Trumbull  Gallery  at  Yale  contains  fifty-seven 
pictures  by  him.  An  engraved  likeness  of  Governor  Yale,  for 
whom  the  college  was  named,  is  one  of  the  first  you  see  on 
entering  the  gallery.  The  following  is  his  epitaph  in  the 
churchyard  at  Wrexham  :  — 

"  Bom  in  America,  in  Europe  bred, 
In  Africa  travel'd,  and  in  Asia  wed, 
Where  long  he  lived  and  thrived  ;  at  London  dead. 
Much  Good,  some  111  he  did  ;  so  hope  all 's  even, 
And  that  his  soul  through  Mercy  's  gone  to  heaven." 

Trumbull  exhibited,  in  1818,  in  Faneuil  Hall,  his  picture  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  the  venerable  John  Adams 
was  prevailed  upon  to  visit  it.  He  approved  the  picture  ;  and. 
pointing  to  the  door  next  the  chair  of  Hancock,  said,  "  There, 
that  is  the  door  out  of  which  Washington  rushed  when  1  first 
alluded  to  him  as  the  man  best  qualified  for  C<  mmander-in- 
Chief  of  the  American  Army."  * 

*  Miss  Quincy's  Memoir. 
4 


74  LANDMARKS   OF  .BOSTON. 

Colonel  Trumbull's  historical  paintings  in  the  rotunda  of  the 
Capitol  at  Washington  have  gained  him  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion ;  his  "  Sortie  from  Gibraltar  "  is  now  in  the  Boston  Athe- 
nseum.     lie  was  a  fellow-student  with  Stuart,  under  West. 

The  paint-room  of  the  Smiberts  and  of  Trumbull  continued 
to  be  improved  by  various  artists  of  lesser  note  until  1785.  At 
this  time  Mrs.  Sheaffe  occupied  the  abode  of  the  Smiberts  as  a 
boarding-house.  This  lady  has  acquired  celebrity  through  her 
children.  In  those  clays  painters  sometimes  styled  themselves 
limners.  One  of  Mrs.  Sheaffe's  boarders  varied  the  monotony 
of  portrait  painting  by  doing  hair-work  in  the  neatest  manner. 
Part  of  the  Smibert  estate  went  to  make  the  present  Brattle 
Street. 

This  locality,  after  having  served  the  New  England  Museum, 
was,  in  course  of  time,  appropriated  by  the  Adelphi  Theatre. 
John  Brougham  was,  in  1847,  associated  with  Mr.  Bland  as 
manager,  with  Mrs.  Brougham  and  Mr.  Whiting  in  the  corps 
dramatique.  The  Adelphi  was  a  side-splitting  affair,  defying 
the  conventionalities  of  the  modern  stage.  An  open  bar  stood 
in  the  rear  of  the  auditorium,  to  which  the  audience  were  in- 
vited to  repair  upon  the  falling  of  the  curtain. 

One  of  the  greatest  changes  that  has  occurred  in  Boston  is 
the  transformation  of  the  over-crowded  thoroughfares  around 
what  was  known  as  "  Scollay's  Buildings  "  into  the  spacious, 
pleasant  area  we  now  call  Scollay  Square.  All  of  the  original 
is  gone  except  the  distinctive  appellation,  and  what  has  existed 
in  some  form  for  two  centuries  has  vanished 

"  Like  the  baseless  fabric  of  a  vision." 

The  Scollays  were  Scotch,  from  the  Orkneys.  John  Scollay 
is  mentioned,  in  1692,  as  lessee  of  Winnisimmet  Ferry.  An- 
other John  Scollay,  of  the  Revolutionary  period,  was  a  man  of 
considerable  note  in  Boston.  He  was  one  of  the  first  Fire- 
Wards  of  the  town,  and  a  selectman  during  the  siege.  His  son, 
William,  is  the  one  for  whom  the  buildings  and  square  were 
named.  The  name,  however,  and  his  proprietorship  only  date 
back  to  about  1800.  William  Scollay  was  a  commander  of 
the  Cadets,  an  apothecary  at  Xo.  6  Old  Cornhill,  and  resided 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     75 

on  the  site  of  the  Museum  in  Tremont  Street.  He  was  promi- 
nently identified  with  Charles  Bulfinch  and  others  in  the  im- 
provement of  Franklin  Street. 

A  long  row  of  wooden  buildings  at  one  time  extended  from 
the  head  of  Cornhill  to  nearly  opposite  the  head  of  Hanover 
Street.  Both  ends  of  this  wedge-shaped  range  of  houses,  with 
the  point  towards  Hanover  Street,  were  cut  off  at  various  times, 
leaving  only  the  brick  structure  of  Scollay,  lately  removed. 
Scollay's  Building  was  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by  Patrick 
Jeffrey,  who  came  into  possession  in  1795.  Neither  age  nor 
incident  render  the  building  an  object  of  special  interest. 

Opposite  to  where  Cornhill  now  opens  into  Court  Street  was 
erected,  in  1 683  -  84,  the  second  school-house  in  the  town.  The 
first  being  styled  the  Latin  School,  this  was  termed  the  Free 
Writing  School.  It  is  clearly  mentioned  in  1697,  and  continued 
to  be  used  until  1793,  when  it  became  private  property,  the 
school  —  then  known  as  the  Centre  Reading  and  Writing 
School  —  being  removed  to  School  Street.  The  first  master 
here  was  Samuel  Cole. 

The  preamble  to  the  first  law  establishing  schools  reads 
thus  :  — 

"  It  being  one  chief  project  of  Satan  to  keep  men  from  the  knowl- 
edge of  the  Scriptures,  as  in  former  times  keeping  them  in  unknown 
tongues  ;  to  the  end,  therefore,  that  learning  may  not  be  buried  in 
the  graves  of  our  forefathers,  in  church  and  Commonwealth,  it  is 
enacted,"  etc. 

The  school-house  is  brought  into  notice  in  1744,  by  a  some- 
what curious  affair.  It  appears  that  Captain  W.  Montague, 
afterwards  a  British  Admiral,  came  ashore  from  his  ship,  the 
frigate  Eltham,  then  lying  in  Nantasket  Roads,  and,  accom- 
panied by  a  party  from  his  vessel,  indulged  in  a  regular  sailor's 
lark  on  shore.  In  the  course  of  their  rambles  the  party  com- 
mitted some  depredations  on  the  school-house,  for  which  war- 
rants were  issued  against  some  of  the  offenders. 

James  Carter  was  the  most  famous  of  the  masters  of  this  old 
school.  He  was  a  pedagogue  of  an  extinct  type,  and  after  a 
long  term  of  service,  continuing  almost  to  the  time  of  his  death, 


76  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

was  buried  December  2,  1797.  His  bouse  adjoined  tbe  school- 
bouse  on  tbe  wpst.  Turell's  Museum  once  occupied  the  old 
school-house,  part  of  which  was  removed  upon  the  completion 
of  Cornhill,  to  afford  a  free  passage  into  Tremont  Street. 

Green  and  Eussell,  one  of  the  old  printing  houses  of  Boston, 
transacted  business  in  an  old  building  that  stood  on  the  site  of 
Scollay's,  in  1755.  Joseph  Russell,  one  of  the  partners,  carried 
on  the  business  of  an  auctioneer,  in  which  he  was  very  success- 
ful, and  became  the  owner  of  the  property.  William  Yassall, 
a  royalist  refugee,  in  1776,  was  the  next  proprietor,  followed 
by  Jeffrey.  Tbe  Colonial  Custom-house  stood  very  near  this 
locabty  in  1757,  but  we  have  been  unable  to  discover  its  exact 
site. 

Cornhill  owes  its  name,  no  doubt,  originally,  to  its  London 
prototype.  It  is  the  second  street  which  has  borne  the  name 
in  Boston,  and  was  first  called  Market  Street,  as  it  opened  a 
new  route  to  Faneuil  Hall  Market.  The  stores  erected  in  this 
street  were  the  first  raised  on  granite  pillars  in  Boston.  Uriah 
Cotting  built  the  street  in  1817.  To  his  genius  Boston  owes  a 
debt  not  yet  suitably  recognized.  Mr.  Cotting's  remains  lie 
beneath  an  humble  tomb  in  Granary  Burying-ground,  but  we 
may  appropriately  apply  to  liim  the  epitaph  of  Sir  Christopher 
Wren :  — 

"  Reader,  if  thou  seekest  his  monument,  look  around." 

Opposite  to  us,  now  the  premises  of  the  Adams  Express  Com- 
pany, was  the  old  Parsonage  House  of  Brattle  Square  Church, 
given  to  it  by  Mrs.  Lydia  Hancock  in  1765.  She  was  the  wife 
of  Thomas  Hancock  (uncle  of  the  patriot),  and  resided  in  the 
old  house,  as  also  did  her  father,  Colonel  Daniel  Henchman, 
grandson  of  the  old  Indian  fighter.  Henchman  was  a  book- 
seller and  bookbinder,  and  Thomas  Hancock  served  bis  time 
with  him.  Colonel  Henchman  established  the  first  paper-mill 
in  the  colony,  at  Milton.  Since  their  day  it  was  the  residence 
of  the  pastors  of  the  church,  —  last,  that  of  Dr.  Lothrop. 
This  house  has  been  noted  as  one  of  the  dwelling-places  of 
James  Otis. 

The  Old  Prison  stood  on  the  spot  where  now  the  massive 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     77 

granite  Court  House  is  placed.  From  it  the  street  was  very 
early  named  Prison  Lane,  changed  to  Queen  Street  in  1708, 
and  to  Court  in  1784.  What  the  Old  Prison  was  like  is  left  .to 
conjecture,  but  we  will  let  an  old  master  of  the  imaginative  art 
describe  it :  "  The  rust  on  the  ponderous  iron-work  of  its  oaken 
door  looked  more  antique  than  anything  else  in  the  New 
World.  Like  all  that  pertains  to  crime,  it  seemed  never  to 
have  known  a  youthful  era."  The  fancy  of  Hawthorne  in 
locating  a  blooming  rose-bush  on  the  grass-plot  beside  the 
prison  door  is  striking.  Here  were  confined  the  victims  of  the 
terrible  witchcraft  delusion. 

"  Who  is  he  ?  one  that  for  lack  of  land 
Shall  fight  upon  the  water." 

This  heavy  oaken  door  stood  between  the  notorious  pirate,  Wil- 
liam Kiddj  and  liberty.  He  arrived  in  Boston  in  June,  1G99, 
with  his  sloop,  and  was  examined  before  the  Earl  of  Bellomont 
and  the  Council  of  the  province.  On  the  6th  of  June  Kidd 
was  seized  and  committed  to  prison  with  several  of  his  crew, 
and  his  vessel  taken  possession  of.  When  arrested,  Kidd 
attempted  to  draw  his  sword  and  defend  himself.  By  order  of 
the  king,  he  was  sent  to  England  in  a  frigate,  and  arrived  in 
London  April  11,  1700.  He  was  examined  before  the  Admi- 
ralty, and  afterwards  before  the  House  of  Lords,  where  great 
efforts  were  made  to  implicate  the  Earl  of  Bellomont  and  other 
of  the  lords  in  Kidd's  transactions.  The  pirate,  after  a  long 
confinement,  was  finally  hung  at  Execution  Dock.  He  died 
hard.  The  rope  broke  the  first  time  he  was  tied  up,  and  he 
fell  to  the  ground ;  a  second  trial  proved  more  successful. 

It  has  been  claimed  that  Kidd  was  not  a  pirate.  He  was  an 
officer  in  the  British  navy  prior  to  1691,  married  in  this  coun- 
try, and  had  commanded  a  merchant  ship  owned  by  Robert 
Livingstone,  a  wealthy  New  York  merchant.  When,  in  1695, 
the  coast  of  New  England  was  infested  with  pirates,  Living- 
stone proposed  to  the  Earl  of  Px'llomont  to  employ  Kidd  to 
go  in  pursuit  of  them,  and  offered  to  share  the  expense  of 
fitting  out  a  vessel.  Application  was  made  to  the  home  gov- 
ernment for  a  thirty-gun  ship,  and  a  commission  for  Kidd  for 


78  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

this  purpose;  but,  the  government  being  then  unable  to  furnish 
a  vessel,  the  Earl  of  Bellomont,  Lords  Halifax,  Spmere,  Etom- 
ney,  Oxford,  and  others  contributed,  with  Livingstone,  to  fit 
Kidd  out  in  the  Adventure  Galley.  He  received  a  commis- 
sion from  the  Court  of  Admiralty  in  December,  1695,  author- 
izing him  to  cruise  against  the  king's  enemies. 

Once  at  sea,  Kidd  turned  pirate,  reversing  the  adage  "  Set  a 
rogue  to  catch  a  rogue,"  and  made  several  captures ;  but  his  ex- 
ploits preceded  him,  and  on  his  return  to  New  England  he  was 
arrested.  The  search  after  the  pirate's  hidden  treasure  has 
continued  ever  since.  A  pot  of  dollars  was  dug  up  in  1 700 
on  Long  Island,  supposed  to  have  been  Kidd's.  The  fate  of 
the   freebooter   has   often  been  lamented  in   the   melancholy 

ditty,  — 

"  My  name  was  Captain  Kidd,  as  I  sailed,"  etc. 

The  Old  Prison,  ugly  and  uncouth,  gave  place  to  a  new  in 
1767,  designed  by  Governor  Bernard.  This  was,  two  years  later, 
destroyed  by  fire,  the  prisoners  being  with  difficulty  rescued ; 
some  of  them  were  badly  burned.*  The  site  was  then  appro- 
priated by  a  Court  House  built  of  brick,  about  the  Revolution- 
ary period,  three  stories  high,  with  a  cupola  and  bell.  Before 
the  erection  of  the  County  Court  House  (City  Hall),  in  1810, 
this  building  was  used  by  all  the  courts  of  law  held  in  the 
county. 

At  this  time  the  County  Jail  was  in  an  old  stone  building 
situated  between  the  Old  Court  House,  just  described,  and  the 
New.  On  the  ground  where  it  stood  was  formerly  an  old 
wooden  building  called  the  Debtor's  Jail.  The  County  Jail 
and  Municipal  Court  House  were,  in  1822,  situated  in  Lev- 
erett  Street. 

In  1851  the  keys  of  the  Old  Prison  in  Court  Street  were 
found  under  the  office  of  the  Leverett  Street  jail,  where  they 
had  lain  since  1823.  They  were  three  in  number;  were  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  of  a  most  primitive 
construction.  The  keys  weighed  from  one  to  three  pounds 
each,  and  when  attached  to  the  jailer's  girdle,  must  have  been 

*  Drake's  History  of  Boston. 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK. 


79 


weighty  arguments  to  his  wards.      These  keys,  when  found, 
were  over  a  hundred  years  old.     What  a  tale  they  could  tell ! 

In  September,  1833,  the  corner-stone  of  the  present  Court 
House  was  laid,  and  it  was  completed  in  1836.  The  building 
is  massive  and  unattractive.  Within  its  granite  walls  the  fugi- 
tive slave  cases  were  tried,  and  here  also  Professor  John  W. 
Webster  received  the  death  sentence  for  the  murder  of  Dr. 
Parkman. 

The  little  alley  which  enters  Court  Street  opposite  the  east- 
erly side  of  Court  Square  is  not  unknown  to  fame.  It  is  to- 
day Franklin  Avenue,  but  has  been 
Dassett's,  or  Dorsett's  Alley,  and  in 
1722  was  a  part  of  Brattle  Street. 
Daniel  Webster's  first  office  was  on 
the  northerly  corner  of  this  alley. 
( hi  the  corner  where  now  stands  the 
Advertiser  building  Samuel  Knee- 
land  began  the  printing  business 
in  1718,  in  quite  another  fashion. 
Thomas,  in  his  History  of  Printing, 
says  :  — 


OLD    PRINTING-PRESS. 


"  William  Brooker,  being  appointed 
Postmaster  of  Boston,  he,  on  Monday, 
December  21,  1719,  began  the  publication  of  another  newspaper  fix 
that  place.  This  was  the  second  published  in  the  British  Colonies, 
in  North  America,  and  was  entitled  '  The  Boston  Gazette.'  James 
Franklin  was  originally  employed  as  printer  of  this  paper  ;  but  in 
two  or  three  months  after  the  publication  commenced  Philip  Mus- 
grave  was  appointed  Postmaster,  and  became  proprietor  of  it.  He 
took  the  printing  of  it  from  Franklin,  and  gave  it  to  Kneeland. 
Kneeland  also  published  here,  in  1727,  '  The  New  England  Jour- 
nal.'    He  occupied  the  office  for  about  forty  years." 

This  is  also  the  location  assigned  James  Franklin,  the  brother 
of  Benjamin,  who,  as  we  have  mentioned,  printed  "The  Boston 
Gazette,"  on  Monday,  December  21,  1719.  He  began,  August 
G,  1721,  the  publication  of  "The  New  England  Courant,"  the 
third  newspaper  in  the  town.     It  was,  like  the  other  papers. 


80  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

printed  on  a  half-sheet  of  foolscap,  and,  being  of  a  more  pro- 
gressive cast  than  the  others,  soon  fell  under  the  ban  of  rigid 
Puritans  like  Rev.  Increase  Mather.  The  first  number  of  this 
paper,  made  famous  by  Benjamin  Franklin's  connection  with  it, 
has  been  reprinted,  and  the  whole  contents  might  easily  be 
contained  in  a  single  column  of  one  of  our  present  journals. 
TVo  very  primitive  woodcuts,  one  representing  a  war  ship 
under  full  sail,  the  other  a  postman  galloping  over  a  village, 
adorn  the  pages. 

Benjamin  became  his  brother's  apprentice  at  the  age  of  twelve, 
in  1718.  He  soon  began  to  write  clandestinely  for  the  paper, 
and  thrust  his  productions  furtively  under  the  office  door.  But 
his  essays  were  approved  and  printed.  In  1723,  James  Frank- 
lin being  forbidden  to  publish  the  Courant,  it  was  issued  under 
the  name  of  Ins  younger  brother,  and  bore  the  imprint,  "  Boston, 
printed  and  sold  by  Benjamin  Franklin,  in  Queen-Street,  where 
advertisements  are  taken  in." 

Benjamin  Franklin  remained  but  a  short  time  with  his 
brother  after  this.  The  old  press  on  which  he  worked  is  in 
the  possession  of  Major  Poore,  of  West  Newbury,  Mass.,  who 
obtained  it  of  Isaiah  Thomas's  heirs.  It  bears  no  date,  and  is 
old  enough  to  be  located  at  any  time  since  printing  began, 
without  danger  of  dispute.  Major  Poore  is  confident  of  the 
authenticity  of  this  press,  tracing  it  by  Thomas  to  the  office  of 
James  Franklin.  The  building,  interesting  by  its  association 
with  the  early  history  of  printing  in  Boston,  became  a  book- 
store, ornamented  with  a  head  of  Franklin,  and  disappeared 
more  than  fifty  years  ago.  The  amusing  rencontre  of  Franklin 
with  his  future  wife,  Miss  Beed,  of  Philadelphia,  will  always 
excite  a  smile. 

The  house  was  occxipied  for  eighty  years  as  a  printing-house, 
by  Kneeland  and  others.  In  1769  it  became  the  office  of  Edes 
and  Gill,  who  continued  there  until  hostilities  commenced,  in 
1776.  Edes  and  Gill  printed  a  copy  of  the  "  Stamp  Act,"  in 
a  pamphlet  of  twenty-four  pages.  They  also  published  "  The 
Boston  Gazette  and  Country  Journal,"  a  successor  of  the  Ga- 
zette of  Franklin,  Kneeland,  etc.,  which  had  been  discontinued. 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK. 


81 


Edes  and  Gill,  when  they^  printed  the  Stamp  Act,  occupied 
premises  on  the  south  side  of  Court  Street,  ahout  on  the  pres- 
ent site  of  the  Adams  Express  Co.  In  their  back  office,  on  the 
old  corner,  the  council  for  the  destruction  of  the  tea  was  held, 
of  winch  Samuel  Adams  was  the  master  spirit.  The  Gazette, 
under  the  control  of  Edes  and  Gill,  was 
the  paper  in  which  Adams,  Otis,  Warren, 
Quincy,  and  other  leaders  of  popular  feel- 
ing, wrote,  and  became  conspicuous  for  its 
able  political  articles.  We  present  two  speci- 
mens of  the  renowned  British  Stamps. 

Over  the  printing-office  was  a  long  room 
in  which  were  wont  to  meet  the  active  pa- 
triots. They  took  the  name  of  the  Long 
Boom  Club.  Samuel  Adams  was  the  leader.  Hancock,  Otis, 
Samuel  Dexter,  William  Cooper,  town  clerk,  Dr.  Cooper,  War- 
ren, Church,  Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.,  Thomas  Dawes,  Samuel  Phil- 
lips, Eoyal  Tyler,  Paul  Eeverc,  Thomas  Fleet,  John  Winslow, 
Thomas  Melvill,  and  some  others,  were  members.  In  this 
room  were  matured  most  of  the  plans 
for  resistance  to  British  usurpation, 
from  the  Stamp  Act  to  the  formation 
of  the  Provincial  Congress  at  Water- 
town. 

After  the  avenues  from  the  town 
were  closed  by  General  Gage,  Edes 
made  his  escape  by  night,  in  a  boat, 
with  a  press  and  a  few  types,  with 
which  he  opened  an  office  in  Water- 
town,  and  printed  for  the  Provincial 
Congress  of  Massachusetts.  John  Gill,  his  partner,  remained 
in  Boston  and  was  imprisoned  for  printing  treason,  sedition, 
and  rebellion.  Green  and  Eussell,  in  1758,  became  occupants 
of  the  corner,  and  printed  the  "Weekly  Advertiser"  therein, 
which  may  be  considered  the  progenitor  of  the  present  journal 
of  that  name. 

Court   Street  was   long  the  headquarters  of  the  newspaper 
4*  F 


Muraf 


82  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

press.  During  exciting  political  controversies  abuse  sometimes 
waxed  warm.  In  the  language  of  a  writer  at  the 'beginning  of 
the  present  century,  — 

"  Press  answers  press  ;  retorting  slander  flies, 
And  Court  Street  rivals  Billingsgate  in  lies." 

The  first  book  printed  in  Boston  was  an  election  sermon 
preached  to  Governor  John  Leverett,  the  Council,  and  Deputies 
of  the  Colony,  May  3,  1G7G.  It  was  a  small  quarto  pamphlet 
of  sixty-three  pages.     John  Foster  was  the  printer. 

The  first  regular  newspaper  was  the  "  News  Letter,"  issued 
April  24,  1704,  by  John  Campbell,  Postmaster  of  Boston  at 
that  time.  Bartholomew  Green  was  the  printer.  Green  con- 
tinued to  print  it  until  the  close  of  1707.  The  building  in 
which  the  News  Letter  was  printed  stood  very  near  the  east 
corner  of  Avon  Street,  on  "Washington. 

Tudor's  Buildings  are  named  from  Colonel  "William  Tudor, 
who  lived  on  the  site.  He  Avas  a  member  of  the  old  Boston  Bar, 
having  studied  with  John  Adams.  He  was  colonel  and  judge- 
advocate-general  in  the  Revolutionary  army,  on  the  staff  of 
"Washington.  Colonel  Tudor  was  also  a  member  of  the  Massa- 
chusetts House  and  Senate,  Secretary  of  State  1809-10,  and 
one  of  the  founders  of  the  Historical  Society.  Fisher  Ames, 
Judge  Parker,  afterwards  Chief  Justice,  and  Josiah  Quincy, 
studied  law  with  him. 

It  is  related  that  Colonel  Tudor  was  once  presented  at  the 
court  of  George  III.  by  our  ambassador,  Rufus  King.  His 
Majesty  catching  the  name,  ejaculated  in  his  disjointed  way  : 
"  Eh  !  what,  what,  Tudor,  Tudor,  —  one  of  us,  eh  '? " 

Rufus  Choate,  who  as  an  advocate  left  no  successor  at  the 
Boston  bar,  had  an  office  in  the  gloomy  granite  block  that  for- 
merly stood  below  the  Court  House,  on  the  site  of  the  Sears 
Building.  He  had  also,  for  a  time,  an  office  on  Tremont  Row. 
Choate  came  to  Boston  in  1834,  after  having  studied  law  in 
the  office  of  William  "Wirt  at  Washington.  He  was  not  long 
in  taking  the  place  left  vacant  by  Mr.  "Webster. 

Besides  pathos,  which  he  could  bring  to  bear  with  over- 
whelming  effect,  Choate  possessed  a  fine  humor.     It  is  said 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     83 

that,  coming  into  court  one  day  to  hear  a  decision  against  him 
from  Chief  Justice  Shaw,  who  was  by  no  means  a  handsome 
man,  Choate  addressed  his  Honor  in  these  words  :  "  In  coming 
into  the  presence  of  your  Honor  I  experience  the  same  feelings 
that  the  Hindoo  does  when  he  bows  before  his  idol,  —  I  know 
that  you  are  ugly,  but  I  feel  that  you  are  great."  * 

Mr.  Choate's  face  possessed  great  mobility,  and  his  voice  was 
capable  of  the  most  varied  modulation.  When  pleading  a  crim- 
inal cause  he  held  court,  jury,  and  auditory  alike  in  a  spell, 
and  seldom  failed  to  sway  the  jury  by  his  eloquence.  He  had 
the  magnetism  of  a  natural  orator,  and  could  make  his  auditors 
weep  or  laugh  at  will.  Mr.  Choate  held  the  offices  of  State 
representative  and  senator ;  was  elected  to  Congress  from  the 
Essex  district ;  and  succeeded  Webster  in  the  Senate  in  1841. 
In  1853  he  was  attorney-general  of  Massachusetts  and  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Constitutional  Convention.  He  retired  from  prac- 
tice in  1858,  on  account  of  failing  health,  and  died  in  Halifax 
in  1859,  while  en  route  to  Europe.  He  was  sixty  years  old 
when  this  event  occurred. 

Where  now  stands  the  stately  Sears  Building  was  once  the 
habitation  of  Governor  John  Leverett,  during  whose  adminis- 
tration occurred  King  Philip's  war.  Leverett  went  to  England 
in  1644,  and  served  under  Cromwell, 

"  From  Edge-Hill  Fight  to  Marston  Moor." 

Charles  II.  made  Leverett  a  knight,  —  a  title  which  he  never 
assumed.  Few  names  connected  with  the  colony  are  more 
honorable  than  Governor  Leverett's.  He  commanded  the  An- 
cient and  Honorable  Artillery  ;  was  agent  of  the  colony  in 
England  ;  on  terms  of  intimacy  with  the  Protector,  major-gen- 
eral, and  deputy-governor,  lie  died  in  1679.  Governor  Lev- 
erett's house  was  afterwards  in  State  Street,  next  east  of  the 
present  Exchange.  F»efore  the  adoption  of  the  Federal  Consti- 
tution the  post-office  was  located  on  tins  comer.  In  the  build- 
ing lately  taken  down  was  once  the  law  office  of  John  A.  An- 
drew, a  man  whose  memory  is  warmly  cherished  by  the  soldiers 
of  Massachusetts  in  the  Rebellion,  who  gave  him  the  name  of 
the  war  governor. 

*  Bench  ami  Bar. 


84 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


On  the  northeast  corner  of  Court  and  Washington  Streets 
-was  the  estate  of  Henry  Dunster,  first  president  of  Harvard 
College.  Here  also  stood  the  Town  Pump,  yielding  its  cooling 
fluid  to  our  thirsty  ancestors,  or  drenching  some  maudlin  va- 
grant of  the  kennel.  Here  is  Hawthorne's  invocation  from  the 
Town  Pump  to  the  passers-by  :  — 

"  Like  a  dramseller  on  the  Mall  at  muster-day,  I  cry  aloud  to  all 
and  sundry,  in  my  plainest  accents,  and  at  the  very  tiptop  of  my 
voice  :  Here  it  is,  gentlemen  !  Here  is  the  good  liquor  !  Walk 
up,  walk  up,  gentlemen,  walk  up,  walk  up  !  Here  is  the  superior 
stuff!  Here  is  the  unadulterated  ale  of  Father  Adam,  —  better 
than  Cognac,  Hollands,  Jamaica,  strong  beer,  or  wine  of  any  price  ; 
here  it  is  by  the  hogshead  or  single  glass,  and  not  a  cent  to  pay  ! 
Walk  up,  gentlemen,  walk  up,  and  help  yourselves  ! " 

Public  notices  and  proclamations  were  affixed  to  the  Town 
Pump. 

A  little  south  of  the  Sears  estate  is  Joy's  Building,  around 
which  is  a  vacant  space  now  known  as  Cornhill  Court  and 
Court  Avenue,  once  Cornhill  Square. 

This  is  the  site  of  the  second  location  of  the  First  Church 

of  Boston,  removed  from 
State  Street  in  1640.  In 
1808  the  society  sold  this 
site  to  Benjamin  Joy,  on 
which  he  erected  the  present 
structure,  and  the  church 
was  removed  to  Chauncy 
Street.  From  the  church 
the  space  around  it  took 
the  name  of  Church  Square. 
The  old  meeting-house  was 
of  wood,  but  after  standing 
seventy-one  years,  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  great  fire  of 
1711,  and  was  then  rebudt 
of  brick.  After  the  building  of  the  Second  Church  in  Hano- 
ver Street  this  house  took  the  name  of  the  "  Old  Brick."     It 


OLD   BKICK    CHURCH. 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     85 

was  of  three  stories  and  decorated  with  a  bell-tower  and  clock. 
This  clock  was,  without  doubt,  the  first  placed  in  any  public 
position  in  the  town.  The  records  show  that  in  1716-17  the 
town  voted  to  obtain  a  town  clock  to  be  set  up  in  some  conven- 
ient place  in  Cornhill.  Before  this  the  bells  were  called  clocks. 
The  bell  of  the  Old  Brick  sounded  the  alarm  on  the  evening  of 
the  Massacre  of  March  5,  1770. 

On  the  corner  of  State  Street,  nearly  opposite  the  Old  Brick, 
was  the  bookstore  of  Daniel  Henchman,  and  later  that  of  Whar- 
ton and  Bowes.  In  this  shop  Henry  Knox,  afterwards  one  of 
the  most  famous  generals  of  the  Revolutionary  army,  was  an 
apprentice.  Here  he  acquired,  by  reading,  the  rudiments  of  the 
military  art.  The  store  was  the  resort  of  the  British  officers, 
who  were  very  friendly  with  the  future  general.  At  eighteen 
Knox  was  lieutenant  of  the  grenadier  company  of  the  Boston 
Regiment,  —  a  company  distinguished  for  its  martial  appearance 
and  the  precision  of  its  evolutions.  He  was  one  of  the  watch 
on  board  the  tea  ship  before  it  was  destroyed,  and  by  his  prox- 
imity was  early  at  the  scene  of  the  Massacre  in  King  Street. 
In  Knox's  account  of  tins  affair  he  said,  "  Captain  Preston 
seemed  much  agitated.  Knox  took  him  by  the  coat  and  told 
him,  '  for  God's  sake  to  take  his  men  back  again,  for  if  they 
fired,  liis  life  must  answer  for  the  consequences.'  While  I  was 
talking  with  Captain  Preston  the  soldiers  of  his  detachment 
had  attacked  the  people  with  their  bayonets.  There  was  not 
the  least  provocation  given  to  Captain  Preston  or  his  party." 
Knox,  after  serving  his  time,  published  for  himself.  "A  Dis- 
sertation on  the  Gout,"  etc.,  bears  his  imprint  in  1772. 

After  Lexington  Knox  escaped  with  his  wife  from  Boston ; 
Mrs.  Knox  concealing  within  the  lining  of  her  cloak  the  sword 
he  subsequently  wore  through  the  war.  She  accompanied  her 
husband  through  all  his  campaigns.  The  Marquis  Chastellux, 
Avho  visited  the  headquarters  of  the  American  army  in  1782, 
says  :  "  We  found  Mrs.  Knox  settled  in  a  little  farm  where  she 
had  passed  part  of  the  campaign  ;  for  she  never  quits  her  hus- 
band. A  child  of  six  months  and  little  girl  of  three  years  old 
formed  a  real  family  for  the  general.     As  for  himself,  he  is  be- 


86  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

tween  thirty  and  forty,  very  fat,  but  very  active,  and  of  a  gay 
and  amiable  character.  From  the  very  first  campaign  he  whs 
intrusted  with  the  command  of  the  artillery,  and  it  has  turned 
out  it  could  not  have  been  placed  in  better  hands.  It  was  he 
whom  M.  du  Coudray  endeavored  to  supplant,  and  who  had  no 
difficulty  in  removing  him.  It  was  fortunate  for  M.  du  Cou- 
dray, perhaps,  that  he  was  drowned  in  the  Schuylkill,  rather 
than  be  swallowed  up  in  the  intrigues  he  was  engaged  in." 

Knox's  corpulency  was  the  subject  of  an  ill-timed  pun  fr.  ni 
Dr.  Byles.  An  intimacy  existed  before  the  war,  and  when,  on 
the  day  Boston  was  evacuated,  Knox  marched  in  at  the  head  of 
his  artillery,  the  doctor  audibly  remarked,  "  I  never  saw  an 
ox  fatter  in  my  life."  Knox  did  not  relish  the  joke  from  the 
old  tory,  and  told  Dr.  Byles  he  was  a  " fool." 

The  graduate  of  the  little  shop  in  Cornhill  was  volunteer  aid 
at  Bunker  Hill,  commanded  the  artillery  during  the  siege  of 
Boston,  and  became  Secretary  of  War.  His  greatest  service, 
perhaps,  was  the  bringing  of  more  than  fifty  cannon,  mortars, 
and  howitzers  from  Ticonderoga,  Crown  Point,  etc.,  to  the  lines 
before  Boston.  This  feat  was  accomplished  early  in  1776,  the 
ordnance  being  dragged  on  sledges  in  midwinter  almost  through 
a  wilderness. 

Knox  was  a  generous,  high-minded  man.  His  portrait,  by 
Gilbert  Stuart,  hangs  in  Faneuil  Hall.  A  gunning  accident 
having  injured  one  of  his  hands,  it  is  concealed  in  the  picture. 

The  celebrated  Benjamin  Thompson,  a  native  of  "Woburn, 
afterwards  a  count  of  the  German  Empire,  was,  like  Knox,  an 
apprentice  to  a  shopkeeper  in  Boston  at  the  time  of  the  Mas- 
sacre. He  was  at  the  American  lines  in  Cambridge  at  the  time 
of  Bunker  Hill,  and  accompanied  Major,  afterwards  Governor 
Brooks  until  they  met  the  retreating  Americans.  After  endeav- 
oring unsuccessfully  to  obtain  a  commission  in  the  Continental 
army,  he  turned  loyalist.  He  was  sent  to  England  by  General 
Howe  after  the  fall  of  Boston,  but  returned  to  America  and 
raised  a  regiment  of  horse,  called  the  "  King's  Dragoons." 

After  the  war  he  was  knighted,  and  became  Sir  Benjamin 
Thompson.     The  Elector  of  Bavaria,  Avhose  sendee  he  entered 


FROM  THE  ORANGE-TREE  TO  THE  OLD  BRICK.     87 

in  1784,  made  him  a  count,  with  the  title  of  Count  Rumford, 
that  being  the  ancient  name  of  Concord,  N.  H.,  where  Thomp- 
son had  formerly  resided.  Rumford  went  afterwards  to  Paris, 
and  married  the  widow  of  the  celebrated  Lavoisier,  from  whom, 
however,  he  afterwards  separated. 

The  Rumford  Professorship  at  Harvard  testifies  to  the  remem- 
brance of  this  distinguished  man  for  his  native  country.  He 
left  a  munificent  becpiest  to  the  College  for  the  advancement  of 
the  physical  and  mathematical  sciences. 

John  Winslow,  one  of  Knox's  compatriots,  and  a  captain  in 
Crane's  Artillery  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  was  a  hardware 
merchant  with  his  uncle,  Jonathan  Mason,  at  No.  12  Corn- 
hill,  just  south  of  the  present  Globe  newspaper  office.  He 
remained  in  Boston  during  the  siege,  and  buried  the  Old  South 
communion  plate  in  his  uncle's  cellar ;  his  uncle  was  deacon  of 
that  church.  It  was  Winslow  who  recognized  the  body  of 
Warren,  the  day  after  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  He  was  at 
Ticonderoga,  Saratoga,  and  White  Plains,  and  held  a  number 
of  State  offices  after  the  war.  Winslow  lived  in  Purchase 
Street,  just  north  of  the  Sailors'  Home. 


88  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


CHAPTER  III. 

FROM    THE    OLD    STATE    HOUSE    TO    BOSTON    PIER. 

Captain  Keayne.  —  Coggan,  first  Shopkeeper.  —  Old  Cornhill.  —  Old  State 
House.  —  First  Church.  —  Stocks  and  Whipping-Post.  —  John  Wilson.  — 
Wilson's  Lane.  —  United  States  Bank.  —  Royal  Exchange  Tavern.  — 
William  Sheaffe.  —  Royal  Custom  House.  —  Exchange  Coffee  House.  — 
"Columbian  Centinel."  —  Benjamin  Russell. — Louis  Philippe.  —  Louis 
Napoleon.  —  Congress  Street.  —  Governors  Dummer  and  Belcher.  —  First 
United  States  Custom  House.  — Post-Office.  —  Bunch  of  Grapes.  —  General 
Lincoln.  —  General  Dearborn.  —  First  Circulating  Library.  —  British  Coffee 
House.  —  Merchants'  Row.  —  First  Inn.  —  Lord  Ley.  —  Miantonimoh.  — 
Kilby  Street.  —  Oliver's  Dock.  —  Liberty  Square.  —  The  Stamp  Office.  — 
Broad  Street.  —  Commodore  Downes.  —  Broad  Street  Riot.  —  India  Street 
and  Wharf.  —  Admiral  Vernon.  —  Crown  Coffee  House.  —  Butler's  Row. 

—  The  Custom  House.  —  Retrospective  View  of  State  Street.  —  Long  Wharf. 

—  The  Barricade  —  T  Wharf.  —  Embarkation  for  Bunker  Hill. 

THE  earliest  settler  on  the  southwestern  corner  of  State  Street 
was  Captain  Robert  Keayne,  who  has  left  his  name  to  us 
in  connection  with  a  legacy  to  build  a  Town  House.  He  was 
also  the  first  commander  of  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artil- 
lery, and  was  by  business  a  tailor.  Captain  Keayne  fell  under 
the  censure  of  court  and  church  for  selling  his  wares  at  exorbi- 
tant profits,  —  we  have  before  mentioned  that  the  authorities 
regulated  the  prices  of  goods,  products,  etc.  His  will,  of  nearly 
two  hundred  pages,  is  devoted  largely  to  an  effort  to  relieve 
himself  of  this  charge.  What  would  Washington  Street  say 
to-day  to  such  a  regulation  1 

The  opposite  or  northwest  corner  of  State  Street  was  occu- 
pied by  John  Coggan,  one  of  the  names  in  the  original  Book 
of  Possessions.  He  has  the  distinction  of  establishing  the  first 
shop  for  the  sale  of  merchandise  in  Boston.  From  this  small 
beginning  dates  the  traffic  of  Boston. 

Having  crossed  ancient  Cornhill,  which  name  applied  to  that 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO    BOSTON   PIER.         89 


OLD    STATE   HOUSE  IN'  1701. 


part  of  Washington  Street 
from  Dock  Square  to 
School  Street,  and  in 
which  congregated  the 
early  booksellers,  we  are 
at  the  head  of  old  King 
Street.  Before  us  is  the 
earliest  market-place  of 
the  town,  on  the  space 
now  occupied  by  the  Old 
State  House.  King  Street 
was  changed  to  State  in 
1784,  but  it  was  frequent- 
ly called  Congress  Street 
before  the  present  name  was  settled  on. 

"  And  mark,  not  far  from  Faneuil's  honored  side, 
Where  the  Old  State  House  rises  in  its  pride. 
But,  0,  how  changed  !  its  halls,  alas  !  are  fled, 
And  shop  and  office  fill  their  slighted  stead." 

The  early  history  of  this  edifice  has  been  given  in  connec- 
tion with  the  City  Hall,  as  its  progenitor.  Besides  being  used 
as  a  Town  House  and  by  the  Colonial  Courts,  it  has  been  occu- 
pied by  the  General  Court  of  the  Colony  and  of  the  State,  by 
the  Council  of  the  Province,  and  as  a  barrack  for  troops.  It 
was  the  first  Exchange  the  merchants  of  Boston  ever  had,  and 
is  still  used  for  a  similar  purpose.  In  it  met  the  Convention 
to  ratify  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States  before  adjourn- 
ing to  Federal  Street  Church.  In  the  west  end  was  located 
the  Post-Office,  in  its  beginning,  and  again  in  1838,  when  a 
force  of  fifteen  clerks  was  sufficient  for  the  transaction  of  its 
business.     In  1832  it  was  again  slightly  damaged  by  fire. 

Under  its  shadow  the  Massacre  was  enacted  by  a  detachment 
of  the  29th  British  Regiment,  the  result  of  constant  collisions 
between  the  people  and  the  soldiery.  At  the  time  of  its  occu- 
pation by  the  British  troops,  —  admitted  by  Governor  Bernard 
in  1768,  —  James  Otis  moved  to  have  the  Superior  Court  held 
in  Faneuil  Hall,  "  not  only  as  the  stench  occasioned  by  the 


90  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

troops  may  prove  infectious,  but  as  it  was  derogatory  to  the 
honor  of  the  court  to  administer  justice  at  the  mouths  of  can- 
non and  the  points  of  bayonets."  This  referred  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  main-guard  opposite,  with  two  field-pieces 
pointed  toward  the  Old  State  House. 

The  following  was  the  interior  arrangement  of  the  building 
after  the  fire  of  1747.  The  eastern  chamber  was  originally 
occupied  by  the  Council,  afterwards  by  the  Senate.  The  Rep- 
resentatives held  their  sittings  in  the  west  chamber.  The 
floor  of  these  was  supported  by  pillars,  and  terminated  at  each 
end  by  doors,  and  at  the  east  end  by  a  flight  of  steps  leading 
into  State  Street.  On  the  north  side  were  offices  for  the  clerks 
of  the  supreme  and  inferior  courts.  In  the  daytime  the  doors 
were  kept  open,  and  the  floor  served  as  a  walk  for  the  inhabi- 
tants who  thronged  it  during  the  sessions  of  the  courts.  After 
the  removal  of  the  Legislature  to  the  new  State  House  the 
internal  arrangement  was  changed  to  suit  later  occupants. 

In  the  Chamber  of  Representatives,  according  to  John  Adams, 
"  Independence  was  born "  and  the  struggle  against  the  en- 
croachments of  the  mother  country  sustained  for  fourteen  years 
by  the  Adamses,  Bowdoins,  Thachers,  Hancocks,  Quincys,  and 
their  illustrious  colleagues.  According  to  Hutchinson,  in  this 
chamber  originated  the  most  important  measures  which  led  to 
the  emancipation  of  the  Colonies,  —  with  those  giants  who, 
staking  life  and  fortune  upon  the  issue,  adopted  for  their 
motto, 

"  Let  such,  such  only,  tread  this  sacred  floor, 
Who  dare  to  love  their  country,  and  be  poor." 

It  was  customary  to  read  the  commissions  of  the  royal  gov- 
ernors in  presence  of  the  court,  attended  by  military  display, 
in  the  Court  House,  as  it  Avas  then  called.  The  news  of  the 
death  of  George  II.,  and  accession  of  George  III.,  was  read 
from  the  balcony ;  the  latter  was  the  last  crowned  head  pro- 
claimed in  the  Colonies. 

The  popular  indignation  against  the  Stamp  Act  found  vent, 
in  1766,  in  burning  stamped  clearances  in  front  of  the  Town 
House.     A  council  of  war  was  held  by  Gage,  Howe,  and  Clin- 


FROM  THE  OLD  STATE  HOUSE  TO  BOSTOX  PIER.    91 

ton,  here  before  Bunker  Hill.  On  the  25th  July,  177G,  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  read  from  the  east  balcony 
by  William  Greenleaf,  Sheriff.  All  the  Continental  troops  in 
the  vicinity  of  Boston  were  paraded  in  State  Street,  and  at  its 
conclusion  tired  thirteen  volleys  commemorative  of  the  thirteen 
Colonies.  Here  the  Constitution  of  Massachusetts  was  planned. 
In  1778  Count  D'Estaing  made  a  splendid  entry  into  Boston 
with  hi3  fleet,  and  was  received  by  Governor  Hancock  in  the 
Council  Chamber. 

After  the  Revolution  it  became  the  place  of  meeting  of  the 
Legislature,  and  has  been  ever  since  called  the  Old  State  House, 
—  except  during  the  interval  when  it  was  the  City  Hall,  — 
and  this  name  is  its  customary  appellation.  In  October,  1 789, 
Washington  received  the  homage  of  the  people,  from  a  tempo- 
rary balcony  at  the  west  end.  A  triumphal  arch  was  thrown 
across  the  street  there,  and  a  long  procession  passed  before  him, 
whose  salutations  he  occasionally  returned.  In  January,  1798, 
the  Legislature  took  possession  of  the  new  State  House. 

The  building  has  undergone  material  alterations,  especially  in 
the  roof,  which  gives  it  a  more  modern  appearance,  and  the  stee- 
ple or  tower  was  once  considerably  higher  than  at  present.  The 
sun-dial,  which  formerly  adorned  the  eastern  gable,  has  been 
superseded  by  a  clock ;  the  Lion  and  Unicorn  once  replaced  the 
ornamental  scrolls  at  either  end.  There  have  been  a  lottery 
office,  engine-house,  and  even  a  newspaper  published  in  the  old 
building,  —  the  latter  printed  in  1805,  in  the  Senate  Chamber, 
and  called  the  "Repertory."  After  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Masons 
was  burnt  out  of  the  Exchange  Coffee  House  it  occupied  quar- 
ters in  the  Old  State  House.  At  the  great  fire  of  1711,  by 
which  it  was  destroyed,  several  gentlemen,  at  imminent  risk  of 
their  lives,  succeeded  in  saving  the  Queen's  portrait  from  the 
flames. 

The  old  First  Church  of  Boston  was  situated  on  the  ground 
now  covered  by  Brazer's  Building,  until  its  removal  to  another 
location.  Here  preached  John  Wilson  and  John  Cotton,  and 
here  came  Winthrop  and  Bellingham,  with  their  zealous  Puri- 
tan followers,  men 


92 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


"  Stern  to  inflict  and  .stubborn  to  endure, 
Who  smiled  in  death. 

In  an  old  two-story  wooden  house  which  stood  upon  the  site 
of  Brazer's  Building  were  located  the  first  United  States  Bank, 
and  also  the  first  government  Post-Office.  The  former  remained 
here  until  the  erection  of  the  building  on  the  site  of  the  Ex- 
change ;  the  Post-Office  was  removed  here  from  CornhUL 
Jonathan  Armstrong  was  postmaster,  and  easily  performed,  from 
his  perch  on  a  high  stool,  all  the  duties  pertaining  to  his  office. 
The  figure  of  a  winged  Mercury,  well  executed  in  wood  by 
Simeon  Skillin,  a  North  End  carver,  was  placed  over  the  door 
of  the  Post-Office  in  State  Street.  The  tutelar  deity  was  rep- 
resented in  the  act  of  springing  from  a  globe.  In  one  hand  he 
held  his  emblematic  rod,  in  the  other  a  letter  directed  to  the 
president  of  the  Branch  Bank. 

In  front  of 'the  old  meeting-house  stood  the  whipping-post, 

and  probably  the  stocks,  though 
this  latter  engine  has  been  lo- 
cated in  front  of  the  Old  State 
House.  In  later  years,  the 
stocks  and  pillory  were  a  mova- 
ble machine,  on  wheels,  and  had 
no  fixed  position.  Both  were 
used  as  a  means  of  enforcing 
attendance,  or  punisliing  offences 
against  the  church,  and  their 
location  at  its  very  portal  served,  no  doubt,  as  a  gentle  re- 
minder to  the  congregation. 

It  is  recorded  that  in  the  year  1753  a  woman  stood  for  an 
hour  in  the  pillory  near  the  Town  House,  amid  the  scoffs  and 
jeers  of  the  multitude.  The  Scarlet  Letter  is  no  myth  ;  Haw- 
thorne had  but  to  turn  to  the  criminal' records  of  the  Colony 
for  the  dramatic  incidents  he  has  related.  The  General  Court 
enacted  in  1695  a  law  to  prevent  marriages  of  consanguinity, 
the  declared  penalty  of  breaking  which  was  that  the  man  or 
woman  offending  should  be  set  upon  the  gallows  for  an  hour, 
with  a  rope  about  the  neck,  and  in  the  way  from  thence  to  the 


THE   STOCKS. 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER. 


93 


common  jail  be  severely  whipped.  The  offenders  were  forever  to 
wear  a  capital  letter  "  I,"  cut  out  of  cloth  of  a  color  different 
from  their  clothes,  on  the  arm  or  back,  in  open  view.  If  the 
culprit  removed  the  letter,  he  or  she  was  to  be  further  whipped. 
No  doubt  there  were  Hester  Prynnes  thus  branded  and  scourged 
in  State  Street. 

Public  whipping  was  inflicted  as  late  as  1803,  and  per- 
sons are  living  who  witnessed  it.  By  order  of  the  Supreme 
Judicial  Court  of  Massachusetts,  two 
men  were  placed  in  the  pillory,  in  the 
year  mentioned,  in  State  Street.  Pier- 
pont,  the  owner,  and  Storey,  master  of 
the  brig  Hannah,  having  procured  a 
heavy  insurance  on  their  cargo,  for  a 
voyage  to.  the  West  Indies,  the  vessel 
was  sunk  in  Boston  harbor,  November 
22,  1801,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  in- 
surance collected.  Fraud  being  proved, 
both  as  to  the  lading  and  loss  of  the 
brig,  the  Court  decreed  that  Pierpont 
and  Storey  be  set  in  the  pillory  in 
State  Street  two  several  times,  one- 
hour  each  time,  and  imprisoned  two 
years,  and  pay  the  costs  of  prosecution. 
The  sentence  was  duly  executed,  the  pillory  being  placed  near 
"  'Change  "  Avenue.  The  Sheriff  usually  performed  the  whip- 
ping by  deputy.  The  whipping-post  became  a  perambulating 
affair,  and  at  one  time  was  stationed  in  West  Street.  Its  ac- 
knowledged utility  appears  by  the  Sessions  Justice's  famous 
charge,  which  lays  down  the  law  in  somewhat  startling  phrase. 

"  Gentlemen  of  the  grand  jury  :  You  are  required  by  your  oath 
to  see  to  it,  that  the  several  towns  in  the  county  be  provided  accord- 
ing to  law  with, 

Pounds  and  schoolmasters, 

Whipping-posts  and  ministers." 

John  Wilson,  first  pastor  of  the  First  Church,  owned  land 
on  Cornhill  and  State  Street ;  the  lane  bearing  his  name,  and 


THE    PILLORY. 


94  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

running  through  his  tract,  was  deservedly  called  Crooked 
Lane.  His  dwelling  was  on  the  site  of  the  Globe  Bank,  de- 
molished in  1873  to  widen  the  narrow  way,  which  still  retains, 
however,  the  old  minister's  name. 

Wilson's  Lane  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  number  and  ex- 
cellence of  its  eating-houses.  This  circumstance,  with  its  old 
name,  calls  to  mind  Tom  Hood's  lines  :  — 

"  I  *ve  heard  about  a  pleasant  land,  where  omelets  grow  on  trees, 
And  roasted  pigs  run  crying  out,  '  Come  eat  me,  if  you  please.' 
My  appetite  is  rather  keen,  but  how  shall  I  get  there  ? 
'  Straight  down  the  Crooked  Lane,  and  all  round  the  Square. '  " 

The  Merchants'  Bank  succeeded  to  the  location  of  the  United 
States  Branch  Bank,  which  was  in  its  day  a  building  of  consid- 
erable architectural  pretension.  The  two  columns  which  now 
support  the  front  of  the  Merchants'  Bank  performed  a  like  ser- 
vice for  its  predecessor,  and  when  taken  down  were  fluted  to 
correspond  more  nearly  with  the  plan  of  the  new  building. 
Observation  will  show  that  the  granite  is  of  a  different  color 
from  that  used  in  the  rest  of  the  facade.  The  United  States 
Bank  building  was  built  of  Chelmsford  granite,  in  imitation 
of  a  Grecian  temple.  It  was  at  first  proposed  to  take  the  site 
of  the  Old  State  House,  but  the  project  —  happily  for  the 
existence  of  this  old  monument  —  was  abandoned.  The  struc- 
ture was  erected  in  1824 ;  Solomon  "Willard  was  the  architect; 
Gridley  Bryant,  master-mason.  The  columns  referred  to  Avere 
brought  from  Chelmsford  on  ponderous  trucks  built  for  the  pur- 
pose. On  account  of  their  great  weight  the  proprietors  of  the 
bridges  refused  to  permit  the  passage  of  the  teams,  and  they 
were  accordingly  brought  over  the  Neck.  The  moving  of  such 
unwieldy  masses  of  granite  —  a  marvel  when  it  was  first 
attempted  —  was  eclipsed  by  the  transporting  of  the  columns 
for  the  Court  House  and  Custom  House. 

The  pediment  was  a  favorite  resort  for  pigeons,  which  becom- 
ing somewhat  troublesome,  by  order  of  Gardiner  Greene,  the 
president,  a  wooden  cat  was  placed  on  the  accustomed  perch  of 
the  feathered  visitors.  They  were  at  first  a  little  shy,  but  soon 
ceased  to  have  any  fear  of  the  sham  grimalkin.     It  was  then 


FROM   THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER. 


95 


removed  to  the  directors'  room,  and  presided  for  a  long  time 
over  the  deliberations  of  the  board. 

The  United  States  Bank  was  established  in  1791,  and  the 
charter  expired  in  1812,  but  was  revived  in  1816,  and  dually 
dissolved  in  1836.  The  bank  originated  in  the  want  of  money 
to  carry  on  the  government.  The  directors  were  appointed 
by  the  parent  bank  at 
Philadelphia,  and  the  div- 
idends which  the  bank  de- 
clared were  made  up  from 
the  business  of  all  the 
branches.  Under  the  char- 
ter of  1816  the  capital 
was  thirty-five  millions, 
of  which  the  government 
owned  seven.  The  at- 
tempt to  permanently  es- 
tablish a  bank  under  gov-  1 
eminent  control,  like  the 
Bank  of  England,  proved 
a  failure,  as  is  well  known.  The  removal  of  the  deposits  by  Gen- 
eral Jackson  affected  the  Boston  branch  but  little,  but  it  brought 
to  light  a  defaulting  official.  The  receiving  teller,  whose  name 
was  John  Fuller,  finding  discovery  inevitable,  put  forty  thousand 
dollars  into  his  pocket  one  afternoon  and  absconded.  In  1836 
Congress  revived  the  charter,  but  Jackson  vetoed  it.  A  bank 
under  the  old  title,  established  by  the  State  of  Pennsylvania, 
went  into  operation  in  the  latter  year,  and  continued  until  1841. 

The  old  United  States  Bank  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the 
Exchange,  in  1798,  and  bore  on  its  front  an  American  eagle, 
with  its  wings  outstretched,  as  if  in  the  act  of  swooping  upon 
the  bulls  and  bears  of  the  street.  On  the  expiration  of  the 
charter  the  State  Bank  purchased  the  building,  and  the  eagle 
was  afterwards  removed  to  Faneuil  Hall,  where  it  is  one  of  the 
curiosities  to  be  seen  there.  It  is  made  of  clay  baked  in  an 
oven  at  the  South  End  ;  and  the  fractured  edges  chipped  away 
by  relic-hunters  have  the  appearance  of  broken  pottery  or  tile. 


ITNITED   STATES   BANK. 


96  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Formerly  the  proud  bird  of  Jove,  and  emblem  of  our  republic, 
was  in  the  centre  of  the  hull,  guarded  by  an  iron  railing.  The 
iron  gates  of  the  old  bank  now  guard  the  entrance  to  the  Cem- 
etery on  Washington  Street,  near  the  St.  James  Hotel ;  a 
rather  singular  transition  from  the  shrine  of  Mammon  to  the 
abode  of  death.  Thomas  Russell  was  the  first  President  in 
1792,  and  Peter  Eoe  Dalton,  Cashier.  The  next  location  of 
the  United  States  Bank  was  in  Congress  Street,  on  the  west 
side,  and  not  far  from  State  Street. 

"  —  Where  's  the  jolly  host 
You  told  me  of  ?     'T  has  been  my  custom  ever 
To  parley  with  mine  host." 

The  Royal  Exchange  Tavern  was  on  the  southwest  corner  of 
Exchange  and  State  Streets,  and  gave  the  name  of  Royal  Ex- 
change Lane  to  that  thoroughfare.  Shrimpton's  Lane  was  an 
earlier  name.  This  tavern  certainly  dates  back  to  1727,  and 
was  then  kept  by  Luke  Vardy.  At  the  time  of  the  Massacre 
one  Stone  was  the  landlord.  It  was  a  resort  for  the  officers  of 
the  British  army  before  the  Revolution.  At  the  beginning  of 
the  present  century  it  was  kept  by  Israel  Hatch,  and  was  a  reg- 
ular stopping-place  for  the  Providence  stages. 

The  rencontre  between  Henry  Phillips  and  Benjamin  Wood- 
bridge,  which  ended  in  a  duel  on  the  Common,  had  its  begin- 
ning in  this  house.  After  the  fire  of  December,  1747,  which 
destroyed  the  Town  House,  the  General  Court  was  held  at 
Vardy's  for  the  few  remaining  days  of  the  session.  The  Royal 
Exchange  was  also  a  favorite  hostelry  of  the  Masons,  Vardy 
being  of  the  fraternity.  At  a  Masonic  procession  on  St.  John's 
day  Joseph  Green  notices  the  jolly  landlord  thus  :  — 

"  Where 's  honest  Luke  ?  that  cook  from  London  ; 
For  without  Luke,  the  Lodge  is  undone. 
'T  was  he  who  oft  dispell'd  their  sadness, 
And  filled  the  Brethren's  hearts  with  gladness. 
Luke  in  return  is  made  a  brother, 
As  good  and  true  as  any  other, 
And  still,  though  broke  with  age  and  wine, 
Presents  the  token  and  the  sign." 

The  Royal  Custom  House,  at  the  time  of  the  Massacre,  wa9 


FROM   THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE   TO    BOSTON   PIER.        97 

on  the  southeast  corner  of  Exchange  and  State  Streets.  Joseph 
Harrison  was  Collector,  and  William  Sheaffe  Deputy.  With  the 
sentinel  on  duty  at  this  point  began  the  affray  in  State  Street. 
The  sentinel,  abused,  beaten,  and  likely  to  be  overpowered, 
loaded  his  piece  and  shouted  for  assistance  to  the  post  of  the 
main-guard,  which  was  opposite  the  south  door  of  the  Town 
House.  The  deplorable  results  which  followed  are  familiar. 
The  old  Custom  House  had  a  balcony,  from  which  shots  were 
fired  at  the  populace  during  the  Massacre. 

This  circumstance,  elicited  during  the  investigation  into  the 
affair  by  the  town  authorities,  did  not  tend  to  improve  the  re- 
lations between  the  people  and  the  obnoxious  officers  of  the 
customs.  The  town  desired  these  officials  to  be  present  during 
the  investigation  and  use  the  privilege  of  questioning  the  wit- 
nesses. Sheaffe,  however,  was  the  only  one  who  attended.  He 
had  been  a  long  time  connected  with  the  Custom  House  ;  as 
deputy  under  Sir  Henry  Frankland,  and  as  his  successor  when 
Sir  Henry  was  removed  for  inattention  to  his  duties.  Sheaffe 
issued  the  famous  Writs  of  Assistance.  He  was  the  father 
of  the  celebrated  Sir  Roger  Hale  Sheaffe,  and  a  devoted  loyal- 
ist. Sheaffe  lived  in  the  vicinity  of  Scollay  Square  in  Court 
Street.  He  had  some  pretty  daughters,  of  whom  Sabine,  in  his 
"  Loyalists,"  says  :  — 

"  Susanna,  Mr.  Sheaffe's  oldest  daughter,  married  Captain  Ponson- 
by  Molesworth,  a  nephew  of  Lord  Ponsonby. 

"  The  family  account  is,  that  on  the  day  of  the  landing  of  a  regi- 
ment of  British  troops  in  Boston,  a  halt  was  made  in  Queen  (Court) 
Street  opposite  Mr.  Sheaffe's  house  ;  that  Susanna,  attracted  by  the 
music  and  the  redcoats,  went  upon  the  balcony  ;  that  Molesworth 
soon  saw  her,  was  struck  by  her  great  beauty,  gazed  intently  upon 
her,  and  at  last  said  to  a  brother  officer,  who,  like  himself,  was  lean- 
ing against  a  fence,  '  That  girl  seals  my  fate.'" 

Margaret,  another  daughter  of  Mr.  Sheaffe,  was  remarkable, 
for  her  beauty ;  so  handsome,  according  to  tradition,  "  no  one 
could  take  her  picture."  Previous  to  her  marriage,  Lafayette, 
who  admired  her,  said  to  her  lover,  "Were  I  not  a  married 
man,  I  'd  try  to  cut  you  out." 

5  o 


98 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


At  the  time  of  the  Massacre  the  Custom  House  was  in 
a  building  used  as  a  dwelling  by  Bartholomew  Green  and 
family.  King  Street  was  then  full  of  dwellings,  the  occupants 
using  the  lower  floor  for  their  business.  This  Green,  a  printer 
by  profession,  had,  according  to  Thomas,  the  peculiar  faculty  of 
recognizing  at  sight  any  vessel  belonging  to  the  port  of  Boston. 
Perpetually  on  the  watch,  as  soon  as  a  vessel  could  be  discovered 
with  a  spy-glass  he  knew  its  name,  and  gave  information  to  the 
owner.  He  had  some  small  office  in  the  Custom  House  at  one 
time. 

He  who  stood  on  the  balcony  of  the  Old  State  House  in 
1770  might  count  five  taverns  of  repute  in  King  Street.  The 
Bunch  of  Grapes  was  the  best  punch-house,  but  Vardy's,  the 
nearest,  was  probably  most  frequented  by  the  barristers  and 
officers  of  the  court. 


EXCT1AXOE   COFFEE    HOUSE. 


From  our  stand-point,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Old  State 
House,  Devonshire  Street  opens  at  our  right  hand.  The  Pud- 
ding Lane  of  yore  is  suggestive  of  good  living.  Accordingly 
we  find  the  well-remembered  Exchange  Coffee-House  was  situ- 
ated in  Congress  Square,  once  known  by  the  singular  title  of 
Half-Square  Court.  The  name  of  this  house  owes  its  origin  to 
the  fact  that  the  principal  floor  was  intended  to  be  used  by  the 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.        99 

merchants  as  an  Exchange.  It  was  a  mammoth  affair  of  seven 
stories,  far  in  advance  of  the  wants  of  its  day,  and  was  com- 
pleted in  1808,  having  occupied  two  years  and  a  half  in  build- 
ing ;  it  cost  half  a  million.  An  unsuccessful  speculation,  it  was 
the  means  of  ruining  many  of  the  mechanics  who  were  em- 
ployed in  building  it.  Destroyed  by  fire  November  3,  1818,  it 
was  rebuilt  in  a  less  expensive  manner,  and  occupied  as  a  tavern 
until  1853,  when  it  was  demolished,  giving  place  to  the  build- 
ings known  as  the  "  City  Exchange." 

The  front  of  the  Coffee  House,  on  Congress  Street,  was  orna- 
mented with  six  marble  Ionic  pilasters,  and  crowned  with  a 
Corinthian  pediment.  It  had  entrances  on  the  State  Street 
side  and  from  Devonshire  Street.  The  building  was  of  an  ir- 
regular shape,  rather  like  a  triangle  with  the  apex  cut  off,  and 
contained  about  two  hundred  and  ten  apartments.  It  was  in 
the  very  centre  of  business,  and  was  a  stopping-place  for  stages 
going  or  returning  from  town.  A  number  of  Masonic  Lodges 
occupied  the  upper  stories. 

Captain  Hull  made  the  Exchange  his  quarters  when  he  was 
in  port  during  the  war  of  1812.  At  the  rooms  of  the  Exchange 
was  kept  a  register  of  marine  news,  arrivals,  departures,  etc. 
When  Hull  arrived  in  Boston  after  his  fortunate  escape  from 
the  British  fleet  in  July,  1812,  he  wrote  with  his  own  hand  in 
this  book  the  following  :  — 

"  Whatever  merit  may  be  due  for  the  escape  of  the  Constitution 
from  the  British  fleet,  belongs  to  my  first  officer,  Charles  Morris,  Esq. 

"Isaac  Hull." 

On  his  arrival,  after  the  memorable  action  with  the  Guerriere, 
Hull  was  the  recipient  of  flattering  attentions  from  the  merchants, 
and  indeed  the  whole  population  vied  to  do  him  honor.  Hull, 
with  straightforward  manliness,  wrote  on  the  journal  of  the 
Coffee  House  a  well-deserved  tribute  to  the  services  of  this  same 
Lieutenant,  afterwards  Commodore  Morris,  who  was  severely 
wounded  in  the  fight. 

Dacres,  who  became  Hull's  prisoner  after  this  engagement, 
lodged  at  the  Exchange.  Of  him  it  is  related,  that  when  he 
went  up  the  side  of  the  Constitution,  after  leaving  his  own 


100  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

ship,  Hull,  eager  to  soothe  the  feelings  of  his  gallant  adversary, 
stepped  forward,  offered  his  hand,  and  said,  "  Danes,  my  deal 
fellow,  I  am  glad  to  see  yon  !  "  The  reply  of  the  discomfited 
Briton  was,  "  D — a  it,  I  suppose  you  are."  The  twain  became 
afterwards  firm  friends. 

President  Monroe  visited  Boston  in  July,  1817.  He  took 
apartments  at  the  Exchange  Coffee  House.  On  the  4th  a 
sumptuous  dinner  was  served,  at  which  the  following  guests 
were  present.  It  would  be  hard  to  find  a  more  distinguished 
company.  General  Swift,  Superintendent  of  West  Point  Acad- 
emy, presided,  assisted  by  Commodore  Perry  and  Mr.  Mason. 
The  other  guests  were  ex-President  John  Adams,  Governor 
Brooks,  Lieutenant-Governor  Phillips,  General  H.  Dearborn, 
President  Kirkland,  Chief  Justice  Parker,  Judges  Story,  Jack- 
son, Davis,  and  Adams,  Generals  Cobb  and  Humphreys  of  the 
old  army,  Hon.  Messrs.  Pickering  and  Fales,  Commodores 
Bainbridge  and  Hull,  and  other  naval  officers.  The  President 
returned  the  visit  of  the  venerable  John  Adams,  and  the  two 
walked,  arm  in  arm,  over  the  farm  at  Quincy,  like  any  two 
plain  country  gentlemen. 

The  fire  which  consumed  the  Coffee  House  was  destructive. 
The  keeper,  Mr.  Barnum,  lost  $  25,000.  Eleven  printing-offices, 
the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  State,  and  several  other  Masonic  Lodges 
were  burned  out. 

"Where  the  Traveller  building  stands  was  once  the  printing- 
office  of  the  "Columbian  Centinel,"  established  in  1781.  It 
was  then  the  size  of  a  sheet  of  commercial  post  writing-paper, 
and  pubHshed  semi-weekly.  Benjamin  Russell  was  the  editor, 
a  name  well  known  in  the  annals  of  Boston  journalism.  Bus- 
sell  was  an  apprentice  to  Isaiah  Thomas  of  the  celebrated 
"Worcester  Spy.  Thomas  had  the  ill  luck  to  be  drafted  in  1 780, 
and  young  Russell  volunteered  in  his  place.  During  his  ser- 
vice he  witnessed  the  execution  of  Andre,  at  Tappan,  as 
one  of  the  guards.     Russell  published  the  Centinel  until  1821. 

When  the  Due  de  Chartres,  afterwards  Louis  Philippe,  Avas 
in  Boston,  an  exile  from  his  native  country,  he  was  in  the  habit 
of  visiting  the  Centinel  office  to  obtain  the  news  from  abroad, 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.      101 

and,  it  is  said,  occasionally  wrote  articles  for  the  paper.  The 
Centinel  was,  at  this  time,  distinguished  for  the  accuracy  of  its 
information  in  regard  to  the  war  then  waging  between  repub- 
lican France  and  combined  Europe.  An  atlas  which  had  be- 
longed to  Louis  enabled  the  editor  to  describe  the  topography 
of  the  battle-fields  minutely,  and  tlms  surpass  his  contempo- 
raries. Louis  Napoleon,  late  Emperor  of  the  French,  was,  if 
report  speaks  true,  at  a  later  day,  an  habitue  of  the  Centinel 
office.  Thus  the  representatives  of  two  opposing  dynasties  have 
eagerly  scanned  the  columns  of  the  same  republican  newspaper 
for  intelligence  that  was  to  make  or  mar  their  fortunes.  The 
Centinel  was  the  leading  Federalist  organ  of  New  England,  and 
was  ably  conducted. 

Next  is  Congress  Street,  named  for  the  National  Legislature. 
The  founders  of  Boston  called  it  Leverett's  Lane,  from  Elder 
Thomas  Leverett,  who  owned  the  tract  through  which  it  passes. 
It  was  subsequently  Quaker  Lane,  from  the  old  Quaker  Meet- 
ing-house situated  therein.  Congress  Street,  at  its  junction 
with  State,  was  once  only  eleven  feet  wide  ;  and  Exchange,  even 
now  scarcely  deserving  the  name  of  street,  was  once  as  narrow 
as  Wilson's  Lane,  but  was  widened  through  its  entire  length. 
The  lower  part  of  State,  where  it  meets  Long  Wharf,  was  also 
widened,  —  a  proceeding  so  repugnant  to  one  of  the  proprietors, 
that  he  took  his  gun  and  threatened  to  shoot  any  one  that 
attempted  to  remove  his  building.  It  was  effected,  however, 
without  bloodshed. 

The  Exchange  is  built  upon  ground  which,  in  the  olden  time, 
belonged  to  Elder  Thomas  Leverett,  who  emigrated  from  Boston, 
England,  where  he  had  been  an  alderman,  and  a  parishioner  of 
Rev.  John  Cotton.  He  was  a  man  of  property  and  distinction 
in  the  province.  His  mure  distinguished  son,  afterwards  gov- 
ernor, became  the  owner  of  this  property,  which  he  parted  with 
in  1G56.  It  became  afterwards  two  estates,  each  having  a  pro- 
prietor of  consequence. 

Andrew  Belcher,  one  of  the  most  wealthy  merchants  of  Bos- 
ton, and  a  contemporary  with  old  Andre*  Faneuil,  lived,  in  1G91, 
in  the  westerly  part  of  this  estate,  which  is  described  as  "  front- 


102  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

ing  on  the  Broad  Street  near  the  Exchange."  This  was  before 
they  had  found  a  name  for  the  street.  Belcher's  house  was  of 
brick.  He  also  owned  two  brick  warehouses,  "the  one  bigger 
and  the  other  less,"  lying  near  the  Town  Dock  ;  an  estate  at  the 
south  corner  of  Washington  and  Bedford  Streets,  one  in  Wing's 
Lane,  and  other  valuable  property.  He  had  been  one  of  the  Pro- 
vincial Council,  and  was  a  representative  in  1698  and  1701. 

Jonathan  Belcher,  afterwards  governor  of  "the  Massachu- 
setts," was  in  his  tenth  year  when  Andrew,  his  father,  came  from 
Charlestown  to  live  in  Boston.  While  in  Europe,  the  Bostonian 
was  presented  at  court,  and  made  so  favorable  an  impression  on 
George  I.  that  the  King  appointed  him  governor  in  1730.  The 
year  previous  he  had  gone  again  to  England  as  agent  for  the 
colony,  —  a  position  he  had  not  obtained  very  creditably,  accord- 
ing to  Hutchinson.  Governor  Belcher  became  very  unpopular, 
and  Avas  superseded,  in  1741,  by  Governor  Shirley;  but  was 
afterwards  appointed  governor  of  New  Jersey.  Shaw  says 
Governor  Belcher's  house  was  after  the  model  of  Julien's,  which 
is  represented  in  another  place ;  he  adds  that  it  was  standing  a 
few  years  before  he  wrote,  in  1817.  Mr.  Belcher  was  a  very 
opulent  merchant.  His  residence  was  in  Orange  Street,  now 
Washington,  in  1732.  He  was  one  of  the  foremost  in  organiz- 
ing the  Hollis  Street  Church,  and  gave  the  Society  land  to  build 
it  upon.  During  his  administration  occurred  the  great  religious 
revival,  caused  by  the  visit  of  Whitefield,  and  Faneuil  Hall 
Market  was  budt.  Governor  Belcher's  son,  Jonathan,  of  Bos- 
ton, became  lieutenant-governor  of  Nova  Scotia.  He  was  an 
able  jiuist,  and  had  been  also  Chief  Justice  of  that  province. 

Governor  Leverett  sold  a  part  of  his  estate,  next  east  of 
Governor  Belcher's,  to  Jeremiah  Dummer,  goldsmith,  in  1677. 
This  Jeremiah,  father  of  two  distinguished  sons,  was  himself  a 
conspicuous  man  in  the  affairs  of  the  town,  and  a  deacon  of  the 
First  Church. 

William  Dummer,  the  elder  son,  lieutenant-governor  of  the 
colony  from  1716  to  1729,  was  a  captain  in  the  Ancient  and 
Honorable  Artillery  in  1719.  He  was  acting  chief-magistrate 
during  a  great  part  of  his  term,  the  governor,  Samuel  Shute, 


FROM   THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.      103 

being  absent  from  his  post.  The  principal  events  of  Governor 
dimmer's  term  were  the  establishment  of  a  linen  manufactory 
in  the  town,  and  the  introduction  of  inoculation  for  the  small- 
pox, during  one  of  its  periodical  visits,  by  Dr.  Boylston.  This 
terrible  distemper,  which  had  scourged  Boston  with  great  vio- 
lence at  different  times,  was  arrested  by  this  simple  expedient, 
which  the  "Western  world  owes  to  the  efforts  of  a  woman. 
Lady  Mary  "Wortley  Montagu  accompanied  her  husband  to  the 
Porte,  where  he  was  ambassador,  in  1716.  While  there  she 
witnessed  the  custom  among  the  Turks  of  engrafting  for  the 
small-pox.  She  at  once  devoted  her  extraordinary  epistolary 
powers  to  procure  the  introduction  of  this  great  boon  into  Eng- 
land, and,  by  great  exertions,  happily  succeeded.  Franklin's 
paper  was  established  while  Dummer  was  acting-governor. 
Governor  Dummer  provided  in  his  will  for  the  manumission 
and  care  of  his  three  negroes.  He  attended  Hollis  Street 
Church,  living  close  at  hand  at  the  time. 

Jeremiah  Dummer,  the  younger,  was  born  in  the  old  home- 
stead in  State  Street.  He  graduated  at  Harvard  in  1G99,  and 
studied  at  the  University  of  Utrecht,  where  he  took  a  degree. 
A  polished  scholar  and  writer,  he  is  known  in  public  life  as 
the  Massachusetts  Agent  in  England,  1710-21.  He  jmblished 
an  eloquent  defence  of  the  New  England  charters  when  they 
were  threatened  in  the  latter  year. 

In  a  building  adjoining  the  west  side  of  the  Exchange 
was  the  first  United  States  Custom  House ;  General  Benjamin 
Lincoln  was  the  first  collector,  and  retained  the  position  until 
1808.  He  occupied  part  of  the  house  for  a  dwelling.  A 
distinguished  Revolutionary  soldier,  General  Lincoln  fought 
from  the  lakes  to  Savannah.  He  was  with  Gates  at  Saratoga 
as  second  in  command,  and  with  D'Estaing  in  the  assault 
on  Savannah.  The  fortune  of  war  made  him  a  prisoner  to 
Sir  II.  Clinton  in  May,  1780,  with  the  garrison  of  Charles- 
ton. Again,  at  Yorktown,  he  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
the  army  of  Cornwallis  lay  down  their  arms.  In  Shays'  Rebel- 
lion of  '87  Lincoln  commanded  the  State  forces  ;  lie  was  also 
lieutenant-governor  in  this  year.     General  Lincoln's  portrait, 


10-4  LANDMARKS  OF  BOSTON. 

by  F.  A.  Durivage,  —  copied  from  Sargent's  picture  in  the 
Historical  Society's  Collection  —  is  in  the  collector's  room  at 
the  Custom  House. 

The  Merchants'  Exchange,  now  the  Sub-Treasury  and  Post- 
Office,  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  edihces  in  State  Street.  It 
was  erected  in  1842,  and  covers  ground  on  which  stood  the 
United  States  Branch,  and  afterwards  the  State  Bank. 

The  first  action  in  regard  to  a  post-office  appears  to  have  been 
an  order  of  the  General  Court,  November  5,  1639,  as  follows  :  — 

"  For  the  preventing  the  miscarriage  of  letters,  it  is  ordered,  that 
notice  bee  given,  that  Richard  Fairbanks,  his  house  in  Boston,  is  the 
place  appointed  for  all  letters,  which  are  brought  from  beyond  seas, 
or  to  be  sent  thither  ;  are  to  be  brought  unto  him,  and  he  is  to  take 
care  that  they  bee  delivered  or  sent  according  to  their  directions  ; 
provided  that  no  man  shall  be  compelled  to  bring  his  letters  thither 
except  hee  please." 

Somewhat  later  it  seems  to  have  become  the  custom  to  bring 
letters  to  the  Exchange,  in  the  Town  Hall,  to  run  the  hazard  of 
being  forwarded  by  visitors ;  but  this  proved  so  precarious  a 
method  that  the  Council,  in  1677-78,  appointed  John  Hay  ward 
Postmaster  for  the  whole  colony.  John  Campbell,  publisher 
of  the  News-Letter,  was  Postmaster  about  1 704. 

In  1711  the  Post-Office  was  in  Old  Cornhill,  and,  when  the 
great  fire  occurred  in  October  of  that  year  was  removed  to  the 
south  side  of  Milk  Street,  opposite  Eev.  Mr.  Pemberton's.  It 
was  removed  back  to  Cornhill  soon  after  this.  William  Brooker 
was  Postmaster  in  1719.  In  1754  the  Post-Office  was  in  Corn- 
hill, at  the  house  of  James  Franklin,  Postmaster  ;  in  1770  it  was 
stdl  in  Cornhill,  between  King  Street  and  Dock  Scpiare  ;  Tut- 
hill  Hubbard  was  Postmaster  in  1771.  Between  this  date  and 
1788  it  occupied  the  corner  of  Court  and  Washington  Streets 
(Sears  Building),  and  in  the  latter  year  was  removed  to  44 
Cornhill,  where  New  Cornhill  now  enters  Washington  Street. 

Post-routes  were  first  established  in  1711,  to  Maine  and 
Plymouth  once  a  week,  and  to  New  York  once  a  fortnight. 
In  1829  the  Post-Office  was  located  on  the  corner  of  Con- 
gress and   Water  Streets,    and   employed  eight   clerks ;   and 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE    HOUSE   TO    BOSTON   PIER.      105 

in  1838  in  the  Old  State  House,  as  related.  It  will  soon  seek 
another  situation  in  "Water  Street,  where  a  splendid  editice  is 
being  erected,  President  Grant  having  assisted  at  the  laying  of 
the  corner-stone. 

The  Bunch  of  Grapes  Tavern  was  on  the  corner  of  Ivilby 
Street  (formerly  Mackerel  Lane)  and  State.  The  New  Eng- 
land Bank  replaces  the  inn.  This  tavern  existed  as  early  as 
1712,  and  was  then  kept  by  Francis  Holmes ;  in  1731-33  it 
was  kept  by  William  Coffin  ;  Joshua  Barker  kept  it  in  1 749  ; 
and  Colonel  Joseph  Ingersoll  from  1764  to  1772.  Captain 
John  Marston  was  landlord  in  1777-78,  William  Foster  in 
1782,  and  James  Vila,  who  removed  the  same  year  to  Concert 
Hall,  in  1789. 

The  sign  of  this  hostelry  was  three  clusters  of  grapes.  When 
the  building  was  torn  down  to  give  place  to  the  bank,  the 
bunches  of  grapes  were  removed  to  the  Commercial  Coffee 
House,  in  Milk  Street,  which  was,  in  its  turn,  removed,  and  two 
of  the  bunches  now  grace  the  front  of  a  liquor  store  in  North 
Market  Street.* 

Few  of  the  ancient  inns  have  had  more  notable  guests  than 
this.  As  long  ago  as  1728  Governor  Burnet  found  a  hospitable 
reception  on  his  arrival  in  Boston.  In  1776,  after  the  reading 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  Lion  and  Unicorn  from 
the  Town  House,  Court  House,  Custom  House,  and  all  other 
British  emblems  that  could  be  found,  were  collected  in  front  of 
this  hostelry  and  made  a  bonfire,  of.  When  Lafayette  arrived 
in  Boston  in  October,  1784,  he  alighted  at  the  Bunch  of  Grapes. 
The  Society  of  the  Cincinnati  held  their  meetings  here  in  1787, 
and  heard  orations  in  the  "  Old  Brick." 

Recrossing  the  street,  we  find  that  the  Custom  House  was, 
in  1810,  situated  on  the  lower  corner  of  Change  Avenue,  former- 
ly Pierce's,  and  afterwards  Flagg  Alley.  General  Henry  Dear- 
born, of  Revolutionary  fame,  succeeded  the  venerable  General 
Lincoln  as  Collector  in  1809,  the  latter  having  resigned  on  ac- 
count of  the  Embargo.  It  is  said  that  General  Lincoln  wrote 
to  President  Madison,  "that  he  had  fought  fur  the  Liberties  of 

*  E.  Paige  &  Co.'s,  43  and  U  North  Market  Street. 
5* 


106  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

his  country,  and  spent  his  best  years  in  her  service  ;  and  that 
he  was  not,  in  his  old  age,  to  be  made  an  instrument  to  violate 
what  he  had  assisted  to  acquire."  * 

General  Dearborn  continued  to  be  Collector  until  appointed 
by  Madison  Senior  Major-General,  and  ordered  to  the  Canada 
frontier  in  1812.  His  long  and  glorious  career  of  public  service 
extended  from  Bunker  Hill,  in  1775,  to  the  capture  of  York,  in 
1813.  At  the  latter  place,  now  Toronto,  was  captured  the  royal 
standard  of  England,  the  only  one  that  ever  fell  into  our  hands. 
This  trophy  is  in  the  naval  museum  at  Annapolis.  By  the  in- 
trigues of  his  enemies  the  veteran  was  displaced  from  his  com- 
mand, but  Avas  refused  the  court  of  inquiry  he  solicited.  He  was 
minister  to  Portugal  in  1822.  General  Dearborn  lived  in  what 
was  afterwards  the  Sun  Tavern,  on  Batterymarch  Street,  more 
recently  occupied  by  a  Glass  Company.  He  married  James 
Bowdoin's  widow,  and  was  a  man  of  very  imposing  presence. 

H.  A.  S.  Dearborn,  son  of  the  old  Avarrior,  succeeded  to  the 
collectorship.  The  younger  General  Dearborn  held  a  number  of 
offices,  and  is  known  as  an  author  of  seAreral  historical  works. 
At  the  time  of  the  Dorr  Bebellion  in  Bhode  Island  he  Avas  Ad- 
jutant-General of  Massachusetts,  and  Avas  remoATed  for  loaning 
the  State  arms  to  suppress  that  affair. 

When  the  Custom  House  Avas  located  on  the  north  side  of 
State  Street,  the  front  Avas  ornamented  Avith  tAvo  figures  carved 
in  Avood ;  one  representing  Hope  leaning  on  the  traditional 
anchor,  the  other  Justice  holding  the  scales  aloft.  These  me- 
morials are  now  preserved  in  the  insurance  office  occupying  the 
same  site. 

In  1810  the  building  in  Custom  House  Street  was  completed, 
and  occupied  in  December  of  that  year,  but  Avas  soon  found  too 
contracted  for  the  government  business.  The  United  States 
Custom  House  had,  for  short  periods,  locations  in  Merchants' 
Boav,  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Corn  Court,  and  in  Half-Court 
Square,  noAV  Congress  Square.  The  tablet  in  the  budding  in 
Custom  House  Street  is  from  the  old  Custom  House. 

On  this  site  Avas  established,  in  1764,  the  first  circulating 

*  Miss  Quincy's  Memoir. 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO    BOSTON   PIER.      107 

library  in  Boston,  by  John  Mein,  the  most  extensive  bookseller 
of  the  day.  His  place  was  called  the  London  Bookstore,  and 
his  stock  contained,  according  to  his  advertisement,  ten  thousand 
volumes. 

Thomas  says  Mein  came  from  Glasgow,  in  1764,  with  Robert 
Sandeman.  His  shop  was  first  on  the  north  corner  of  what  is 
now  Franklin  and  Washington  Streets,  where,  in  addition  to 
books,  he  sold  Irish  linens,  etc.  The  firm  at  this  time  was  Mein 
and  Sandeman. 

John  Mein  is  also  associated  with  early  printing  in  Boston, 
having  been  connected  with  John  Fleming,  in  17G7,  in  the 
publication  of  the  Boston  Chronicle,  the  first  semi-weekly  in 
New  England. 

The  paper  fell  under  the  ban  of  popular  censure,  and  was 
suspended  in  1770,  it  having  espoused  the  cause  of  the  mother 
country.  Mein  was  exhibited  in  effigy  on  Pope  Day,  1769, 
and  in  the  unique  and  horrible  pageant  was  carried  a  lantern 
with  this  acrostic  :  — 

"  Mean  is  the  man,  M — n  is  his  name, 
Enough  he  's  spread  his  hellish  fame  ; 
Infernal  Furies  hurl  his  soul, 
Nine  million  times  from  Pole  to  Pole." 

Mein  was  afterwards  the  subject  of  a  personal  attack,  and 
took  refuge  with  the  soldiery,  making  a  final  escape  from  the 
profane  poetry  and  hard  blows  of  the  wrathful  "  Bostoneers  " 
soon  after,  to  England. 

As  we  are  now  among  the  Insurance  Offices,  it  becomes  ap- 
propriate to  state  that  the  first  in  the  town  was  established  by 
Joseph  Marion,  in  1724.  His  office  was  called  "The  Sun  Fire 
Office  in  Boston,"  and  was  located  near  the  site  of  the  Globe 
Bank,  22  State  Street. 

Where  the  beautiful  marble  building  numbered  66  now 
stands  was  the  British  ( 'oll'ee  House,  an  inn  kept  by  Mr.  Mal- 
lard in  1762.  It  was  of  some  prominence,  and  divided  wiili 
its  neighbors  the  patronage  of  the  military  and  civilians.  The 
repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act  was  celebrated  here,  and  at  the  Bunch 
of  Grapes  in  March,  1767.     It  was  also  the  scene  of  the  un- 


108  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

fortunate  collision  between  James  Otis  and  John  Robinson,  one 
of  the  Customs  Commissioners  referred  to  in  connection  with 
Otis's  residence.  Otis  went  to  the  Coffee  House  alone,  by  ap- 
pointment, and  was  immediately  attacked  by  Robinson  and  his 
friends.  A  young  man  who  went  to  the  assistance  of  Otis 
was  roughly  handled  and  put  out  of  the  house. 

The  house  seems  to  have  been  preferred  by  British  officers  ; 
for  we  find  one  of  them,  Surgeon  Bolton,  delivering  a  harangue 
from  the  balcony,  ridiculing  the  orations  of  Warren  and  Han- 
cock, and  abusive  of  the  Whig  patriots,  while  the  main-guard, 
paraded  in  front,  furnished  an  audience.  Under  the  new  regime 
this  tavern  was  styled  the  American  Coffee  House.  It  became 
a  place  of  public  vendue,  in  1786,  by  a  firm  who  sold  books  in 
the  chamber  and  jackasses  in  the  street.  The  Massachusetts 
Bank  long  occupied  its  site. 

Merchants'  Row  seems  to  have  retained  its  original  designa- 
tion, being  thus  described  in  1708.  Andrew  Faneuil's  ware- 
house was  on  the  lower  corner  in  1732.  This  was  then  the 
lower  end  of  King  Street.  The  Row  followed  an  irregular, 
serpentine  course  to  the  wharf  on  the  southerly  side  of  the 
Town  Dock. 

On  the  west  side  of  Merchants'  Row,  about  midway  from 
State  Street  to  Faneuil  Hall,  was  the  first  house  of  entertain- 
ment in  Boston.  It  was  kept  by  Samuel  Cole  in  1631.  Gov- 
ernor Vane,  in  1636,  invited  Miantonimoh,  the  Narragansett 
chief,  to  Boston,  and  the  sachem  repaired  thither  with  a  con- 
siderable retinue.  The  attendants  of  the  chieftain  were  dined 
at  Mr.  Cole's,  doubtless  Avith  many  a  grunt  of  satisfaction,  for 
their  landlord  bore  a  good  name,  as  we  shall  learn,  from  high 
authority.  In  what  manner  Cole  fed  his  score  of  painted  Xar- 
ragansetts  does  not  transpire.  It  must  have  vexed  the  spirit 
of  the  jolly  Boniface  full  sore  to  know  how  to  place  his  guests 
at  table.  They  did  not  know  the  use  of  chairs,  so  he  may  have 
seated  them,  according  to  their  custom,  in  a  circle  on  the  floor, 
with  his  iron  pot  of  meat  in  the  centre,  into  which  each  might 
plunge  his  hand  until  satisfied.  However,  Indians  were  no 
uncommon  sight  in  the  town  in  those  days. 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO    BOSTON    PIER.      109 

Lord  Ley,  Earl  of  Marlborough,  who  was  killed  in  a  naval 
engagement  with  the  Dutch  in  1665,  visited  Boston  in  1637. 
He  lodged  at  Cole's  inn,  and  when  urged  by  Governor  Wiuthrop 
to  partake  of  his  hospitality  declined,  saying  that  the  house 
where  he  was  was  so  well  governed,  he  could  be  as  private 
there  as  elsewhere.  Lord  Ley  accompanied  Sir  Harry  Vane 
back  to  England.  His  lordship's  reply  was  not,  it  is  said,  rel- 
ished by  the  governor,  who  considered  himself  slighted  and  his 
hospitality  and  position  neglected. 

Kilby  Street,  which  once  boasted  the  euphonious  name  of 
Mackerel  Lane,  extended  first  only  from  State  Street  to  what 
is  Liberty  Square,  the  portion  beyond  being  known  as  Adams 
Street  until  1825.  Mackerel  Lane  was  very  narrow  until  the 
great  fire  of  1760,  and  crossed  the  creek  in  Liberty  Square  by 
a  bridge  at  the  foot  of  Water  Street.  On  the  map  of  1722 
wharves  line  the  east  side  of  Kilby  Street,  and  until  about 
1800  Oliver's  Dock  came  up  to  this  street.  Broad  and  India 
Streets  had  no  existence  until  1808-09. 

Oliver's  Dock  was  originally  marsh,  and  through  Liberty 
Square  a  creek  ran  up  as  far  west  as  Spring  Lane.  This  was 
Governor  Winthrop's  marsh,  and  the  head  of  this  cove  was  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  spring  mentioned  in  the  Introduction.  Shaw 
states  that 

"  The  greater  part  of  Congress  Street  is  made  land.  An  aged  gentle- 
man, who  lived  near  the  spot,  says  that  when  the  foundation  of  Joy's 
Buildings  (corner  of  Congress  and  Water)  was  preparing,  the  re- 
mains of  the  hull  of  an  old  vessel,  or  large  boat,  with  fragments  of 
canvass  and  tarred  rope,  were  dug  up  ;  which  shows  the  place 
had  been  once  used  as  a  graving-yard,  or  some  similar  purpose. 
From  a  view  of  the  ground,  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  greater 
part  of  Congress  Street,  the  whole  of  Kilby  Street  and  Liberty 
Square,  are  built  on  flats,  once  covered  by  salt  water." 

In  noticing  the  great  storm  and  tide  in  1723  the  writer 
says,  — 

"We  could  sail  in  boats  from  the  southern  battery  (Eowe'a  Wharf) 
to  the  rise  of  ground  in  King  Street." 

In  very  high  tides  the  water  has  flowed  up  to  the  corner  of 


110  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

State  Street  and  Merchants'  Row.  Sound  logs  have  been  dug 
up  at  the  bottom  of  this  street,  which,  from  the  appearance  of 
knots  and  branches,  were  supposed  to  have  been  felled  near  at 
hand. 

Oliver's  Dock,  so  named  from  Peter  Oliver,  is  noted  as  the 
scene  of  an  episode  of  the  Stamp  Act  riots  of  1765.  A  build- 
ing newly  erected  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Kilby  Strict  and 
Liberty  Square  was  supposed  by  the  people  to  be  intended 
for  a  stamp  office,  and  was  torn  down  and  thrown  into  the 
dock.  Liberty  Square  derives  its  name  from  this  circumstance. 
It  was  so  named  at  the  Civic  Feast  in  honor  of  the  French 
Revolution  January  24,  1793,  when  a  liberty-pole  sixty  feet 
in  length,  surmounted  by  tbe  horns  of  the  ox  that  had  been 
roasted  on  Copp's  Hill  for  the  feast,  was  raised,  and  a  salute  of 
fifteen  guns  fired.  The  procession,  after  passing  through  the 
principal  streets,  pausing  at  Liberty  Stump  (where  Liberty 
Tree  had  stood),  and  at  the  residences  of  "  Citizens  "  Hancock 
and  Adams,  as  they  were  then  styled,  then  governor  and  lieu- 
tenant-governor, halted  in  State  Street,  where  tables  were  laid 
from  the  Old  State  House  to  near  Kilby  Street.  The  roasted 
ox  was  there  dispatched  by  the  crowd  amid  a  scene  of  con- 
fusion. In  the  afternoon  an  entertainment  was  provided  at 
Faneuil  Hall  at  which  Samuel  Adams  presided.  "  Liberty 
and  Equality  "  were  toasted  and  sung,  but  as  the  bloody  char- 
acter of  the  French  Revolution  became  manifest  in  the  execu- 
tion of  Louis  XVI.,  which  had  occurred  three  days  before,  the 
Civic  Feast  was  not  repeated. 

The  first  directory  published  in  Boston  was  printed  by  John 
Norman,  at  Oliver's  Dock,  in  1789.  It  contained  1,473 
names.     The  directory  of  1872  contains  102,117  names. 

Broad  Street  next  invites  attention.  It  was  built,  hi  1808, 
by  that  great  public  benefactor,  Uriah  Cotting,  whose  improve- 
ment of  Cornhill  is  already  noticed.  Until  this  street  was  laid 
out  Batterymarch  marked  the  water-line  to  its  junction  with 
Kilby  Street.  Broad  Street  was  at  first  occupied  for  business, 
but  the  subsequent  building  of  India  Street  rendered  it  una- 
vailable for  this  purpose,  and  it  became  the  headquarters  of  a 


FROM   THE   OLD    STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.      Ill 

respectable  class  of  residents ;  these  were  ousted  in  their  turn 
by  the  Irish,  who  swarmed  to  this  country  in  great  numbers 
after  the  war  of  1812.  Among  the  early  residents  of  Broad 
Street  we  find  Lieutenant,  afterwards  Commodore  John  Downes, 
who  served  with  distinction  in  the  navy.  He  was  in  the  attack 
on  Tripoli  under  Preble,  and  with  David  Porter  in  the  Pacific, 
where,  in  command  of  the  Essex  Junior,  —  to  use  the  lan- 
guage of  a  contemporary,  —  "he  played  the  devil  among  the 
whalers." 

Broad  Street  was,  in  June,  1837,  the  scene  of  a  riot  between 
the  firemen  and  Irish.  The  affair  grew  out  of  an  attempt  of 
the  firemen,  while  proceeding  to  a  fire,  to  pass  through  the 
ranks  of  an  Irish  funeral  cortege.  This  was  resented,  and  led 
to  a  regular  Donnybrook  scrimmage,  resulting  in  many  broken 
heads,  but  no  loss  of  life.  Military  force  was  used  to  put 
down  the  riot,  which  assumed  serious  proportions,  but  no 
powder  was  burned.  The  affray  led  to  the  disbandment  of 
the  whole  fire  department. 

India  Street,  flanked  by  India  and  Central  Wharves,  Avas 
built,  the  year  after  Broad  Street,  by  Mr.  Cotting.  About  mid- 
way of  Central  Wharf  was  formerly  an  arched  passage-way, 
which  presented  the  singular  feature  of  a  building  supported  by 
it,  but  having  no  land  belonging  to  it,  —  to  use  a  military 
phrase,  it  was  in  the  air.  There  were  formerly  a  number  of 
these  arches,  —  not  the  least  among  the  curious  objects  to  be 
seen  in  Boston,  —  and  several  are  yet  existing. 

Two  other  taverns  remain  to  be  noticed,  of  which  the  first  is 
the  Admiral  Vernon.  The  name  was  from  Edward  Vernon,  the 
admiral,  who  was  known  while  he  lived  under  the  sobriquet  of 
Old  Grog.  In  bad  weather  he  was  in  the  habit  of  walking  the 
deck  in  a  rough  grogram  cloak,  and  thence  had  obtained  the 
nickname.  Whilst  in  command  of  the  West  India  Station, 
and  at  the  height  of  his  popularity  on  account  of  his  reduction 
of  Porto  Bello  with  six  men-of-war,  he  introduced  the  use  of 
rum  and  water  by  the  ship's  company.*  The  Admiral  Vernon 
was  on  the  lower  corner  of  State  Street  and  Merchants'  How, 
*  Notes  and  Queries. 


112  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

and  was  kept  by  Richard  Smith  about  1743,  and  in  1775  by 
Mary  Bean. 

The  first  house  on  Long  Wharf  was  the  Crown  Coffee  House, 
noticed  in  1718.  It  was  kept  by  Widow  Anna  Swords  in  1 749, 
being  then  owned  by  Governor  Belcher,  while  Governor  William 
Dnmmer  owned  the  next  estate  easterly.  Richard  Smith,  of 
the  Admiral  Vernon,  kept  it  in  1749,  and  Robert  Shelcock  in 
1751.  It  was,  like  the  Admiral  Vernon,  a  water-side  resort, 
but  is  not  known  to  possess  any  associations  of  marked  interest. 
It  stood  where  the  budding  now  is,  having  a  westerly  front  on 
State  Street,  but  the  street  has  been  widened  here.  Like  the 
other  inns,  it  was  used  as  a  dwelling  by  the  proprietors. 

Peter  Faneud's  warehouse  was,  in  1742-43  (the  year  of  his 
death),  below  the  Admiral  Vernon,  from  winch  he  carried  on 
his  large  business  with  the  West  Indies  and  Europe.  Peter 
was  not  averse  to  a  little  sharp  practice  upon  the  King's  revenue, 
for  we  find  an  extract  of  one  of  his  letters  winch  requests  ad- 
vice, —  "  also  what  good  French  brandy  is  worth,  and  if  it  be 
possible  to  cloak  it  so  as  to  ship  it  for  rum."  *  Otherwise,  Peter 
seems  to  have  placed  a  high  estimate  upon  his  commercial  honor, 
and  his  charities  were  numerous  and  open-handed. 

If  you  enter  the  little  passage-way  just  below  Merchants' 
Eow,  you  will  find  a  range  of  brick  buildings,  bounded  north 
by  Chatham  Street  and  south  by  the  passage-way.  This  is  But- 
ler's Eow,  and  you  may  yet  see  the  name  cut  in  stone  on  the 
southeast  corner  of  the  block.  Peter  Butler,  an  old  proprietor, 
had  a  Avarehouse  and  wharf  here.  Andrew,  Peter,  and  Benjamin 
Faneuil  all  had  warehouses  on,  or  bounding  upon,  Butler's  Eow. 
These  were  all  merchants  of  high  standing,  which  marks  the 
locality  as  one  of  importance  to  the  mercantile  class. 

Seventy  years  ago  the  space  between  Batterymarch  and  State 
Streets  was  occupied  by  a  ship-yard  and  wharves.  Where  the 
old  Custom  House  stands,  on  Custom  House  Street,  large  ves- 
sels have  been  built  and  launched. 

The  massive  proportions  of  the  new  Custom  House,  which 
contains  about  the  same  number  of  cubic  feet  of  stone  as  Bunker 
*  Dealings  with  the  Dead. 


FROM   THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.      113 

Hill  Monument,  stand  on  a  foundation  recovered  from  the  sea. 
Begun  in  1837,  it  took  three  years  to  make  a  secure  foundation. 
The  building  is  cruciform,  of  the  Grecian  Doric  order,  and  has 
the  peculiarity  that  the  roof  is  covered  with  granite  tiles,  ren- 
dering it  completely  fire-proof.  Its  position  is  not  conspicuous, 
but  it  is  one  of  the  noticeable  public  edifices  in  Boston.  It  was 
completed  in  1849,  at  a  cost  of  over  a  million.  A.  B.  Young, 
M.  A.,  was  the  architect. 

We  may  now  take  a  retrospective  view  of  State  Street.  It 
is  the  busy  mart  and  exchange  of  the  city,  sacred  to  the  worship 
of  Mammon.  Bills,  stocks,  and  bonds  are  its  literature,  and 
in  its  vaults  are  fifty  millions  of  dollars.  Here  Shylock  meets 
Antonio,  and  daily  takes  his  pound  of  flesh.  It  is  our  Rialto, 
our  Bourse,  our  Royal  Exchange.  But  time  was  when  Perez 
Morton  dwelt  where  the  Union  Bank's  strong  coffers  are,  and 
John  Coburn  took  gentlemen  boarders  just  below  the  Post- 
Office,  —  this,  too,  within  the.  present  century. 

Since  Boston  was,  State  Street  has  been  a  favorite  theatre  of 
military  displays,  —  the  train-bands  of  the  hard-visaged  Puri- 
tans, the  solid  tramp  of  the  newly  arrived  British  soldiery  in 
1768,  and  of  the  reinforcements  in  1774.  Through  State  Street 
marched  the  5th  and  38th  to  embark  for  Bunker  Hill,  and  the 
tread  of  Rochambeau's  gallant  Frenchmen  has  wakened  the 
echoes  of  the  old  street.  Since  those  more  stirring  scenes  it 
has  been  the  custom  and  delight  of  the  citizen  soldiery  to 
"  march  up  State  Street."  The  bayonets  of  many  a  gallant 
regiment  have  glittered  in  the  sunlight  here,  ere  they  marched  to 
the  front  in  the  late  civil  war.  Here,  too,  Burns,  a  poor  fugitive 
was  conducted  by  the  whole  police  and  military  force  of  the 
city  to  the  ship  which  took  him  back  to  slavery.  But  we 
have  changed  all  that. 

The  fire  of  1711  left  its  mark  in  State  Street,  destroying  all 
the  upper  part,  the  Town  House,  and  the  Old  Meeting  House. 
An  attempt  was  made  to  save  the  bell  of  the  latter,  and  several 
sailors  ascended  the  cupola  for  that  purpose;  but  the  flames  cut 
off  their  retreat,  and  they  perished  in  the  falling  ruins.  In 
1747  the  Town  House  was  again  destroyed.     In  the  great  lire  of 

H 


114  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

17G0  the  street  was  again  scourged  by  the  devouring  element, 
scarcely  a  building  being  left  in  the  part  below  Kilby  Street. 

State  Street  was  also  the  scene  of  a  fatal  affray  in  August, 
1806,  between  Charles  Austin  and  Thomas  Oliver  Selfridge,  in 
which  the  former  was  killed.  This  affair  made  a  great  noise, 
and  the  day  was  long  remembered  as  "  Bloody  Monday."  James 
Sullivan  was  then  Attorney-General,  wlule  the  defence  of  Self- 
ridge was  conducted  by  Samuel  Dexter  and  Christopher  Gore. 
The  origin  of  the  difficulty  was  political  feud  ;  but,  according 
to  Mr.  Sargent,  the  immediate  cause  was  a  dispute  between 
other  parties,  about  seven  roast  pigs  and  ten  bushels  of  green 
peas.  Austin  was  killed  between  the  Old  State  House  and  the 
Traveller  Office. 

Long  Wharf  and  State  Street  are  so  firmly  united  that  they 
may  be  considered  one  to  all  intents  and  purposes.  Before  the 
wharf  was  built  the  lower  part  of  State  Street  terminated  at 
the  Governor's  Dock.  The  subject  of  building  a  wharf  at  the 
bottom  of  King  Street  was  mooted,  as  early  as  1707,  by  Oliver 
Xoyes  and  others.  In  1709-  10  the  town  voted  to  accept  the 
proposals  of  Noyes  and  his  associates  to  build  a  wharf,  with  a 
sufficient  common  sewer,  from  Andrew  Faneuil's  corner  to  low- 
water  mark,  to  be  of  the  width  of  King  Street.  As  originally 
projected,  the  wharf  was  to  have  a  public  way  on  one  of  its 
sides,  thirty  feet  wide,  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants  and  others 
forever.  At  about  the  middle  a  gap,  sixteen  feet  wide,  was  to 
be  left  for  the  passage  of  boats ;  the  end  was  to  be  left  free  for 
the  town  to  plant  guns  on,  if  occasion  required.  The  name  of 
the  wharf  was,  first,  Boston  Pier.  M.  l'Abbe  Bobin  describes 
the  pier  as  "a  superb  wharf,  advancing  nearly  two  thousand  feet 
into  the  sea,  wide  enough  along  its  whole  length  for  stores  and 
shops."  On  the  map  of  1722  there  appears  almost  a  continuous 
row  of  buddings  on  the  north  side;  on  Price's  plan  of  1713 
the  end  of  the  wharf  is  fortified. 

The  "  T "  of  Long  Wharf,  formerly  known  as  Minott's  T 
(from  Stephen  Minott),  is  a  part  of  the  ancient  structure  known 
as  the  Barricado,  or  Old  Wharf,  which  was  a  line  of  defence 
connecting  Scarlett's  Wharf,  at  the  foot  of  Copp's  Hill,  with  the 


FROM   THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.      115 

South  Battery  at  the  foot  of  Fort  Hill.  It  enclosed  the  Town 
Cove,  in  which  the  shipping  lay.  The  Banicado  extended  in 
straight  lines  from  the  wharf  to  the  terminal  points,  making  an 
angle  at  the  junction  with  Long  Wharf,  with  the  point  towards 
the  town.  It  was  built  of  wood,  and  had  openings  on  each 
side  of  Long  "Wharf  for  vessels  to  pass  through.  Apprehensions 
of  invasion  from  the  Dutch  or  French  caused  its  construction. 
Atlantic  Avenue  now  follows,  substantially,  the  line  of  the 
Barricado.  It  crossed  Long  Wharf  on  the  neck  of  the  T,  and 
two  little  islands  to  the  north  and  south  of  the  wharf  furnished 
points  of  ap2mi.  Central  Wharf  was  laid  out  over  one  of  these 
islands,  and  large  trees  and  stones,  which  had  been  used  in 
building  the  Barricado,  were  found  when  excavations  were 
making  for  the  wharf.  The  other  island  was  removed.  The 
Old  Wharf,  being  for  defence  only,  was  only  wide  enough  to 
work  guns  upon.  It  fell  into  gradual  decay,  and  the  last  ves- 
tiges disappeared  long  ago.  "  T  "  Wharf,  which  name  has 
sometimes  erroneously  been  connected  with  the  Tea  Party,  has 
always  been  noted  for  an  excellent  old  well  of  water,  from 
which  ships  were  supplied.  Minott  and  Andrew  Faneuil 
owned  it  in  1718. 

When,  in  November,  1745,  after  that  extraordinary  and 
successful  expedition,  which  residted  in  the  reduction  of  Louis- 
burg,  Governor  Shirley  returned  home  in  the  Massachusetts 
Frigate,  a  splendid  reception  awaited  him.  He  first  landed  at 
the  "  Castle,"  where  he  passed  the  night,  coming  up  to  Boston 
in  the  morning  in  the  Castle  barge.  About  noon  he  landed, 
with  his  retinue,  at  Long  Wharf,  under  salutes  from  all  the 
shipping  in  the  port  and  the  acclamations  of  the  people.  Here 
they  were  received  by  the  dignitaries  of  the  province  and  town, 
and  by  Colonel  Wendell's  regiment  of  militia,  a  Chelsea  com- 
pany, the  Troop  of  Guards,  and  another  Troop  of  Horse,  with 
the  Cadets  under  Colonel  Benjamin  Pollard.  The  ringing  of 
bells,  illuminations,  and  fireworks  prolonged  the  joyful  occasion. 

General  Thomas  Gage  landed  at  Long  Wharf  in  May,  1774, 
and  was  received  by  the  Troop  of  Guards,  a  regiment  of  militia, 
and  the  Cadets,  under  the   command  of   Lieutenant-Colonel 


116  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Coffin.  The  reception  was  in  the  midst  of  a  drenching  rain, 
hut  was,  nevertheless,  attended  by  a  great  concourse  of  people. 
Six  years  before  this  umbrellas  —  or  "  umbrilloes,"  as  they  were 
called  —  were  first  used  in  Boston,  and  were,  doubtless,  put  in 
requisition  on  this  occasion.  Nearly  all  the  British  troops  that 
set  foot  in  Boston  landed  at  this  wharf.  It  was  also  the  scene 
of  the  embarkation  of  the  5th  and  38th  for  Breed's  Hill,  who 
left  so  many  of  their  number  on  its  green  slope. 

The  stores  on  the  wharf,  deserted  by  most  of  their  owners, 
were  used  during  the  siege  for  the  storage  of  military  and  naval 
stores,  of  which  a  considerable  quantity  was  recovered  by 
Quartermaster-General  Mifflin,  —  besides  General  Gage's  char- 
iot, which  was  taken  out  of  the  dock  broken,  —  when  our  forces 
entered  the  town.  After  the  evacuation,  the  British  fleet  re- 
mained for  some  time  anchored  at  Nantasket,  and  was  a  source 
of  continual  alarm  to  the  people.  General  Benjamin  Lincoln 
organized  a  force  which  embarked  from  Long  Wharf  and  took 
positions  at  Long  and  Pettick's  Islands,  Hull,  Point  Alderton, 
and  elsewhere.  The  battery  on  Long  Island  sent  a  shot  through 
the  upper  works  of  Commodore  Banks's  ship,  when  he  signalled 
the  fleet  to  get  under  Avay,  blew  up  the  lighthouse,  and  vexed 
the  waters  of  Boston  harbor  no  more. 

"When  the  neAvs  of  the  Embargo  of  1812  reached  the  town  it 
caused  the  greatest  consternation.  All  the  vessels  that  could 
get  away  before  the  port  closed  did  so.  Sunday,  April  5,  was 
as  busy  a  day  as  any  of  the  remaining  six.  Long  Wharf,  and 
every  other,  was  crowded  with  trucks,  sailors,  and  longshore- 
men. About  fifty  sail  went  to  sea  before  the  flag  of  Embargo 
was  raised  on  Fort  Hill. 

The  embarkation  of  the  troops  which  were  to  force  the 
American  works  at  Breed's  Hill,  from  this  wharf  and  from  the 
North  Battery  (Battery  Wharf ),  was  a  scene  to  be  remembered. 
The  ships  of  war  furnished  the  boats,  which  were  in  charge  of 
Collingwood,  —  afterwards  so  famous  as  Nelson's  lieutenant, — 
then  a  midshipman.  Frothingham  graphically  describes  the 
display  :  — 

"  When  a  blue  flag  was  displayed  as  a  signal,  the  fleet,  with  field- 


FROM   THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE   TO   BOSTON   PIER.      117 

pieces  in  the  leading  barges,  moved  towards  Charlestown.  The  sun 
was  shining  in  meridian  splendor ;  and  the  scarlet  uniforms,  the 
glistening  armor,  the  brazen  artillery,  the  regular  movement  of  the 
boats,  the  flashes  of  fire,  and  the  belchings  of  smoke  formed  a  spec- 
tacle brilliant  and  imposing." 

"  Hark,  from  the  town  a  trumpet !    The  barges  at  the  wharf 
Are  crowded  with  the  living  freight,  and  now  they  're  pushing  off. 
With  clash  and  glitter,  trump  and  drum,  in  all  its  bright  array, 
Behold  the  splendid  sacrifice  move  slowly  o'er  the  bay  !  " 


118  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

BRATTLE    SQUARE    AND    THE    TOWN    DOCK. 

Old  Cornhill.  —  Paul  Revere.  —  Amos  and  Abbott  Lawrence.  —  Boylston's  Al- 
ley. —  Barracks  of  the  29th.  —  Blue  Anchor.  —  Brattle  Street  Church.  — 
General  Gage.  — Howe,  Clinton,  and  Burgoyne.  — John  Adams.  — Head- 
quarters of  Stage-Coaches.  —  Dock  Square.  —  The  Conduit.  —  Town  Dock 
Described.  —  Quincy  Market.  —  Origin  of  Markets  in  Boston.  —  The  Tri- 
angular Warehouse.  —  Roebuck  Passage.  —  Clinton  Street.  —  The  Old 
Market  Museum.  —  Old  Cocked  Hat.  —  Faneuil  Hall.  —  D'Estaing.  — 
Lafayette.  —  Jackson.  —  Prince  de  Joinville.  —  Jerome  Bonaparte.  —  Lord 
Ashburton.  —  The  Portraits.  —  Corn  Court.  —  Hancock  House.  —  Talley- 
rand. —  State  Custom  House.  —  The  Conscription  Riot. 

OUR  way  lies  through  that  part  of  Old  Cornhill  from  State 
Street  to  Dock  Square.  The  Town  Pump,  which  has  been 
referred  to,  stood  in  the  middle  of  Cornhill,  on  a  line  with  the 
north  side  of  Court  Street,  giving  room  for  vehicles  to  pass  on 
either  side.  A  drinking-fountain  at  the  sidewalk  would  not 
inappropriately  mark  the  place. 

At  No.  50  Cornhill,  coinciding  with  Crocker  and  Brewster's 
bookstore,  we  find  Paul  Revere,  a  man  whose  name  occurs  fre- 
quently in  connection  with  the  history  of  Boston.  Descended 
from  the  sturdy  old  Huguenots,  whose  ancient  family  name  was 
Rivoire,  Paul  Revere  began  business  as  a  goldsmith,  but,  ere- 
long, took  up  the  art  of  engraving  on  copper,  in  which  he  was 
self-taught ;  a  fact  evident  enough  in  his  early  attempts. 

Of  his  engravings  of  Dr.  Mayhew,  and  the  Rescinders,  he 
might  have  said  with  Beau  Brummel,  "  These  are  my  failures." 
" The  Massacre,"  "Cromwell's  Head,"  etc.,  show  a  somewhat 
truer  hand.     But 

"  Copperplate,  with  almanacks 
Engraved  upon  't,  and  other  knacks," 

did  not  fill  the  measure  of  Revere's  ingenuity.  He  put  in  oper- 
ation the  first  powder-mill  in  the  province,  visiting  Philadelphia 
—  where  was  the  only  mill  in  the  Colonies  —  for  this  purpose. 


BRATTLE   SQUARE   AND   THE   TOWN    DOCK.  119 


120  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

The  proprietor  would  only  permit  the  Boston  mechanic  to  go 
through  his  mill ;  but  this  was  enough,  and  the  Provincial  Con- 
gress soon  had  powder.  Eevere  was  of  the  Tea  Party ;  was 
lieutenant-colonel  of  a  regiment  of  militia  raised  after  the  evacu- 
ation ;  and  was  in  the  ill-starred  Penobscot  expedition  of  1779. 
After  the  peace  of  1783  he  established  a  cannon  and  bell  foundry 
at  the  North  End,  and,  later,  works  at  Canton  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  malleable  copper  bolts,  spikes,  etc.  A  company  at  the 
latter  place  still  bears  his  name.  Paul  Eevere  was  also  the  first 
President  of  the  Mechanic  Charitable  Association. 

When  the  engraver  was  at  work  upon  the  caricature  of  the 
seventeen  members  of  the  Legislature  who  voted,  in  17G8,  to 
rescind  the  resolution  to  issue  a  circular  to  the  Colonies  calling 
a  convention  to  oppose  taxation  without  representation,  entitled 
"  A  warm  place,  Hell,"  Dr.  Church,  who  afterwards  betrayed 
the  patriot  cause,  dropped  in,  and,  seeing  what  Eevere  was  do- 
ing, seized  a  pen  and  wrote  :  — 

"  O  brave  Rescinders  !  to  yon  yawning  cell, 
Seventeen  such  miscreants  will  startle  hell. 
There  puny  villains  damned  for  petty  sin, 
On  such  distinguished  scoundrels,  gaze  and  grin  ; 
The  outdone  devil  will  resign  his  sway,  — 
He  never  curst  his  millions  in  a  day." 

When  Amos  Lawrence  first  came  to  Boston,  in  1807,  from 
his  native  town  of  Groton,  he  began  business  in  Cornhill,  on 
the  corner  which  makes  the  turn  into  Dock  Square.  We  are 
assured  that  the  rental  of  $  700  per  annum  seemed,  at  that 
time,  to  presage  ruin  to  the  future  milhonnaire.  Mr.  Lawrence, 
whom  we  find  set  down  as  a  shopkeeper,  removed  afterwards  to 
the  situation  on  the  opposite  side  of  Cornhill,  now  occupied  by 
a  well-known  carpet  firm.  At  this  time  he  boarded  with  Mrs. 
Dexter,  in  Portland  Street,  as  did  also  his  brother  Abbott,  an 
apprentice  in  his  store.  The  munificent  public  and  private 
charities  of  Amos  Lawrence  will  long  perpetuate  his  memory. 
To  Williams  College  he  gave  upwards  of  $40,000,  and  to 
Bunker  Hill  Monument  large  sums  and  personal  effort. 

Abbott  Lawrence,  the  apprentice,  became  an  eminent  Boston 
merchant,  besides  holding  many  offices  of  public  trust.     He 


BRATTLE   SQUARE   AND   THE   TOWN   DOCK.  121 

•was  the  founder  of  the  city  of  Lawrence  ;  -was  in  the  City 
Council  in  1831,  a  member  of  Congress  two  terms,  and  minister 
to  England  from  1849  to  1852.  He  also  founded  the  Lawrence 
Scientific  School  at  Cambridge,  endowing  it  munificently. 

We  have  mentioned  among  the  peculiar  features  of  the  town 
the  arches,  which  in  various  places  tunnel  the  buildings,  and 
furnish  a  short  cut  from  street  to  street.  A  covered  passage  is 
now  before  us,  the  oldest,  it  is  believed,  in  Boston.  Altera- 
tions have  taken  place  in  the  buildings,  but  a  similar  way  was 
here  long  prior  to  the  Eevolution.  At  the  time  of  the  Boston 
Massacre,  and  for  two  years  previous,  Brattle  Square  was  a  sort 
of  place  cV amies  for  British  troops,  and  in  the  alley  began  a  col- 
lision between  some  grenadiers  of  the  29th  and  a  few  citizens 
on  the  evening  of  the  memorable  5th  of  March. 

As  early  as  1734  John  Draper,  who  published  the  Boston 
News-Letter  in  1732,  and  was  printer  to  the  Governor  and 
Council,  lived  on  the  east  corner,  and  from  him  it  took  the 
name  of  Draper's  Alley.  In  1776  Benjamin  Edes,  the  printer, 
took  the  house  next  to  Draper,  part  of  which  formed  the  alley, 
so  that  its  present  occupation  by  a  large  printing  firm  is  entirely 
legitimate.  The  passage  was  known  both  as  Draper's  and 
Boylston's  Alley. 

Opposite  the  opening  into  Brattle  Street  was  Murray's  Bar- 
racks, in  which  the  29th  were  quartered.  This  regiment  was 
thoroughly  hated  by  the  Bostonians  before  the  Massacre,  and 
after  this  tragedy,  in  which  it  was  the  chief  actor,  there  is  little 
question  that  it  would  have  been  exterminated  in  detail  but  for 
its  removal  to  the  Castle.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  a  major  of 
the  29th,  Pierce  Butler,  became  a  citizen  of  the  United  States 
and  a  Senator  from  South  Carolina,  becoming,  in  1812,  an  ad- 
vocate for  war  against  his  native  country.  The  officers  of  the 
29th  lodged  at  Madame  Apthorp's.  Her  house  stood  in  the 
angle  now  covered  by  the  Central  House. 

Where  the  City  Tavern  now  is  was  once  the  locality  of  the 

Blue  Anchor  Tavern,   but  this  was  not  the  original   "  Blew 

Anchor,"  which  was  in  Cornhill,  very  near  the  site   of   the 

Globe  newspaper  building.     The  old  tavern  was  kept  in  1691 

6 


122  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

by  George  Monck,  and  as  early  as  1664  by  Robert  Turner. 
Savage  says  :  "At  the  sign  of  the  Blue  Anchor,  Turner  fur- 
nished lodgings  and  refreshments  to  members  of  the  govern- 
ment, to  juries,  and  to  the  clergy,  when  summoned  into  synod 
by  our  General  Court."  The  rooms  in  the  Blue  Anchor  were 
designated  as  the  "  Cross  Keyes,"  "  Green  Dragon,"  the  "Anchor 
and  Castle  Chamber,"  and  the  "Hose  and  Sun  Low  Boom."* 
What  should  we  think  in  these  days  of  such  a  bill  as  the  fol- 
lowing abstract  of  an  election  dinner  to  the  General  Court  in 
1769  presents?— 204  dinners,  72  bottles  of  Madeira,  28  of  Lis- 
bon, 10  of  claret,  17  of  port,  18  of  porter,  50  "double  bowls" 
of  punch,  besides  cider.  A  double  bowl  of  punch  held  two 
quarts,  enough  to  satisfy  thirsty  Jack  Falstaff  himself. 

At  about  the  same  time  Joseph  Ingersoll,  of  the  "  Bunch  of 
Grapes,"  furnished  the  Council  with  two  dozen  Madeira,  three 
dozen  Lisbon,  four  and  a  half  gallons  Vidania  ("  to  mix  with 
the  water  "),  and  six  double  bowls  of  punch.  Only  fifty  cents 
in  our  currency  was  charged  for  anything  eatable.  Verily, 
Hutchinson  and  his  associates  were  no  ascetics. 

At  our  left  hand  rises  the  wreck  of  Old  Brattle  Street  Church. 
"  The  tower  that  long  had  stood  the  crash  of  thunder  and  the  warring  winds  " 
is  now,  as  we  write,  all  that  is  left  of  the  historic  edifice  which 
dated  back  to  1772,  just  one  hundred  years  before  its  demolition. 

The  first  building  was  erected  in  1699,  of  wood,  and  was  for 
a  time  known  as  the  "  Manifesto  Church,"  in  consequence  of  a 
declaration  of  principles  by  it,  in  answer  to  a  protest  from  the 
older  churches  against  its  more  liberal  form  of  worship.  The 
old  church  was  never  painted,  and  the  tower  and  bell  were  on 
the  west  side,  while  the  entrance  was  at  the  south  side.  Its 
ruinous  condition  caused  it  to  be  rebuilt  of  brick,  as  it  lately 
stood.  John  S.  Copley,  the  painter,  made  a  plan  for  the  new 
building,  but  it  was  rejected  on  account  of  the  expense,  and 
that  of  Major  Thomas  Dawes  accepted.  Governor  Hancock 
gave  a  thousand  pounds,  and  a  bell,  on  which  was  inscribed,  — 

"  I  to  the  Church  the  living  call, 
And  to  the  grave  I  summon  ajl." 

*  Whitmore's  Notes  to  John  Dunton's  Letters. 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.     123 

This  was  the  church  of  Colman,  the  Coopers,  Thacher,  Buck- 
minster,  Edward  Everett,  Palfrey,  and  Lothrop,  an  array  of 
clerical  talent  unsurpassed  in  the  Boston  pulpit.  General  Gage 
quartered  the  29th  in  the  church  and  vicinity,  taking  up  Ids 


BRATTLE   STREET    CHURCH. 


own  quarters  in  the  house  opposite.  Gage  told  Mr.  Turell  that 
he  had  no  fears  for  his  men  while  quartered  within  such  walls. 
Nevertheless,  the  night  before  the  evacuation  a  twenty-four 
pound  shot  from  Cambridge  struck  the  tower,  and  falling  to 
the  ground  was  picked  up  by  Mr.  Turell,  and  in  182-1  was 
imbedded  in  the  masonry,  where  it  remained  until  the  work 
of  demolition  began. 

When  the  society  sold  the  church,  they  reserved  the  ancient 
quoins,  pulpit,  bell,  and  cannon-ball.  The  bell  given  by  Gov- 
ernor Hancock  became  cracked,  and  was  sold ;  the  present  one 
having  been  purchased  in  London  in  1809.     The  society  voted 


124 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


WINDOW   OF   BRATTLE   STREET 
CHl'RCH,    WITH   BALL. 


to  make  Mr.  Wakefield  the  custodian  of  the  cannon-ball,  to  be 
placed  by  him  in  the  front  of  his  new  building  on  the  old  site, 
and  occupy  the  same  position  as  in 
the  church.  The  rustic  quoins,  of 
Connecticut  stone,  have  been  placed 
inside  the  tower  of  the  new  church 
on  Commonwealth  Avenue.  One  of 
these,  which  had  the  name  of  John 
Hancock  inscribed  upon  it,  was  mu- 
%  tilated  by  the  King's  soldiers,  who 
owed  a  special  spite  to  King  Han- 
cock, as  they  styled  him.  Dr.  John 
Greenleaf  's  name  was  on  another  of 
the  quoins. 

During  the  occupation  by  troops, 
services  appear  to  have  been  held 
occasionally  in  the  church,  as  the  Boston  Gazette,  of  Septem- 
ber 21,  1775,  states  that  "the  Bev.  Dr.  Morrison  received 
a  call  to  preach  in  the  elegant  new  church  in  Brattle  Street, 
vacated  by  the  flight  of  Dr.  Cooper,  and  on  Sunday  he  deliv- 
ered an  excellent  discourse  to  a  genteel  audience."  The  tenor 
of  this  discourse  was  upon  the  fatal  consequences  of  sedition, 
and  was  adapted  to  the  "  genteel "  audience.  Of  the  pastors, 
besides  Cooper,  noted  as  a  zealous  coworker  with  the  patriots, 
there  was  Buckminster,  who  had  taught  Daniel  "Webster  at  Ex- 
eter Academy,  and  was  one  of  the  originators  of  the  Anthology 
Club  ;  Everett,  whom  Lafayette  styled  the  young  American 
Cicero,  who  left  the  pulpit  for  a  distinguished  career  in  public 
life  ;  and  others  who  have  been  prominent  in  our  annals. 

Besides  Governors  Hancock  and  Bowdoin  and  their  families, 
Joseph  Warren,  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  Madame  Scott,  Daniel 
Webster,  John  Coffin  Jones,  and  many  other  distinguished 
Bostonians,  have  sat  under  the  ministration  of  the  pastors  of 
Old  Brattle  Street. 

General  Thomas  Gage,  whom  some  wit  proposed  to  create 
Lord  Lexington,  Baron  of  Bunker  Hill,  on  account  of  his  dis- 
asters  here,   was  well   acquainted   with   Washington,   having 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.      125 

fought  under  Braddock  at  Fort  du  Quesne,  where  he  (Gage) 
led  the  advance.  "Washington,  in  July,  1775,  "became  his 
adversary.  Another  of  these  intimacies  existed  "between  Gen- 
eral Charles  Lee  and  Burgoyne,  who  had  served  together  in 
Portugal. 

Gage  succeeded  Hutchinson  as  governor,  in  1774,  when  it 
was  determined  by  the  Ministry  to  crush  the  rising  spirit  of 
rehellion  in  the  Colonies.  He  was  at  first  well  received,  hut 
the  course  of  events  soon  led  to  a  wide  separation  between  him 
and  the  people.  After  Lexington,  Gage  proclaimed  martial 
law,  offering  pardon  to  all  offenders  except  Samuel  Adams  and 
John  Hancock.  Bunker  Hill  followed,  and  the  British  general 
soon  found  himself  shut  up  in  the  town.  In  October  he 
resigned  and  returned  to  England,  being  succeeded  by  Howe. 
Howe,  Clinton,  and  Burgoyne,  all  arrived  in  Boston  in  the  Cer- 
berus, May  25,  1775.  As  they  came  up  the  harbor  they  met  a 
packet  outward  bound,  and  Burgoyne  hailed  the  master  and 
inquired  the  news.  Learning  that  Boston  was  closely  besieged 
by  the  provincials,  he  demanded,  "  How  many  regulars  are 
there  in  the  town  1 "  Being  answered  about  five  thousand  men, 
he  exclaimed,  "  What !  ten  thousand  peasants  keep  five  thou- 
sand King's  troops  shut  up ;  well,  let  us  get  in  and  we  '11  soon 
find  elbow-room."  This  name  stuck  to  Burgoyne,  and  on  a 
second  visit  to  Boston,  when  the  fortune  of  war  had  made  him 
a  prisoner,  he  landed  at  Charlestown  Ferry,  —  where  the  bridge 
now  is,  —  but  was  extremely  annoyed  by  an  old  woman,  who, 
perched  on  a  neighboring  shed,  kept  crying  out,  "  Make  way 
there,  —  elbow-room,  —  elbow-room." 

In  17G8  John  Adams,  the  ftiture  president,  but  then  a  young 
barrister,  took  up  his  residence  with  Mr.  Bollan  in  Brattle 
Square.  The  house  was  known  as  the  "White  House.  His  son, 
John  Quincy  Adams,  was  then  only  a  year  old.  In  his  diary 
Mr.  Adams  remarks  that  "  the  town  was  full  of  troops,  and 
through  the  whole  succeeding  fall  and  winter  a  regiment  was 
exercised  by  Major  Small  directly  in  front  of  my  house."  On 
the  night  of  the  Massacre  Mr.  Adams  was  passing  the  evening 
at  the  house  of  Mr.  Henderson  Inches  at  the  South  End,  where 


126  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

a  club,  of  which  Adams  was  a  member,  used  to  assemble. 
Thinking  the  alarm  was  for  a  firo,  he  snatched  his  hat  and 
cloak,  and  went  out  to  assist  in  putting  it  out.  He  did  not 
reach  the  Town  House  until  the  affair  was  ended,  and  passed 
on,  through  the  little  alley  we  have  taken  in  our  route,  to 
Brattle  Street.  The  29th  were  drawn  up  in  front  of  their 
barracks,  and  Adams  had  to  pass  along  their  ranks  to  reach 
his  lodgings,  but  not  a  word  was  spoken  on  either  side.  At 
this  time  he  lodged  in  Cole  Lane,  now  Portland  Street. 

Mr.  Adams  was  elected  to  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts 
in  1770,  though  laboring  under  some  obloquy  on  account  of 
his  defence  of  Captain  Preston.  He  has  been  called  the  father 
of  our  navy,  as  the  act  passed  under  Washington's  administra- 
tion authorizing  the  construction  of  six  frigates,  was  vitalized 
by  him,  while  at  a  still  earlier  day,  in  the  Continental  Congress 
of  1775,  he  drew  up  a  code  of  regulations  for  a  navy,  that  has 
formed  the  basis  for  the  government  of  that  branch  of  the 
service.  Ambassador  to  England  and  Holland,  and  finally 
Chief  Magistrate,  John  Adams,  by  a  coincidence,  died  on  the 
same  day  as  Thomas  Jefferson,  July  4,  1826.  Mr.  Adams  was 
termed  by  Jefferson  the  "  Colossus  "  of  Congress. 

Before  leaving  Brattle  Square  and  its  vicinity,  it  must  not 
be  forgotten  that  this  street,  with  Elm  and  Union,  formed  the 
great  headquarters  of  the  stages  before  the  day  of  railways. 
Wilde's  and  Doolittle's  were  chief  among  the  taverns  for  stage 
travel,  and  on  a  clear  morning  the  air  resounded  with  the 
crack  of  the  whips  and  halloo  of  the  drivers.  The  starting  of 
the  stages  was  always  witnessed  by  a  gaping  crowd,  and  their 
diurnal  passage  over  the  country  roads  was  an  event  to  the 
dwellers  along  the  route,  scarcely  equalled  by  the  later  advent 
of  the  iron  horse.  The  Tony  "Wellers  of  the  box  were  great 
men  in  the  eyes  of  the  stable-boys  and  country  lasses.  One  at 
least  among  them  has  reached  the  eminence  of  M.  C,  while 
another  presides  over  the  traffic  of  a  great  railway. 

In  exploring  Dock  Square,  we  find  that  the  old  Town  Dock, 
from  which  its  name  is  derived,  flowed  up  to  a  point  opposite 
the  entrance  of  Elm  Street,  formerly  Wing's  Lane.     On  the 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.      127 

brink  of  the  Dock  was  a  watch-house,  and  in  the  space 
formed  by  the  junction  of  North  (Anne),  Union,  and  Elm 
Streets  was  the  Flat  Conduit.  This  conduit  was  merely  a 
reservoir  of  water,  about  twelve  feet  square,  raised  in  the 
centre  and  sloping  at  the  sides.  It  was  covered  with  planks, 
and  the  platform  served  on  Saturdays  as  a  meal  market.  It  is 
mentioned  as  early  as  1657,  and  was  constructed  perhaps  not 
long  after  the  fire  of  1653.  Anne  Street  was  originally  Con- 
duit Street  as  far  as  Cross,  and  Union  Street  is  described  in 
1732  as  leading  from  the  Conduit  to  the  Mdl  Pond. 

Before  Faneuil  Hall  was  built  —  as  early  as  1 708  —  the 
space  it  covers  and  which  surrounds  it  was  occupied  as  a 
market-place,  and  at  the  foot  of  Merchants'  Eow  the  Dock 
was  crossed  by  a  swing-bridge,  in  two  equal  parts.  That  part 
of  the  Dock  lying  west  of  Merchants'  liow  was  filled  up  about 
1780  ;  it  was  known  as  the  Market  Dock.  The  lower  section 
of  the  Dock  was  narrower,  and  is  now-  covered  by  North 
Market  Street.  At  the  time  of  the  improvement  of  this  region 
by  Josiah  Quincy,  in  1826,  the  Town  Dock  came  up  as  far  as 
the  head  of  Faneuil  Hall  Market,  or,  as  this  name  is  now 
applied  to  the  market  in  Faneuil  Hall,  we  will  say  Quincy 
Market,  which  the  popidar  will  has  christened  it.  On  the  old 
plans  of  1738  the  Town  Dock  was  flanked  by  Woodmansie's 
wharf  on  the  south,  and  by  Borland's,  Bridgham's,  Hill's,  and 
Pitt's  wharves  on  the  north.  The  Mill  Creek,  connecting  the 
Mill  Cove  with  the  Town  Cove,  emptied  into  the  latter  on  a 
line  with,  and  a  little  south  of  Blackstone  Street. 

In  the  primitive  order  of  things,  it  is  apparent  that  the  tide 
covered  all  the  level  ground  in  Dock  Square,  as  far  as  the  bot- 
tom of  Brattle  Street,  and  all  east  of  Union  Street  from  Creek 
Lane  on  the  west.  Between  the  Mill  Creek  and  the  Town 
Dock  was  a  triangular  tongue  of  land,  or  rather  marsh.  All 
of  the  north  side  of  the  Dock  seems  to  have  been  known  at 
one  time  as  the  Fish  Market.  Shaw  says,  "  The  chief  part  of 
the  town  was  built  on  the  cove  or  bay  which  has  since  been 
called  the  Town  Dock."  The  first  paragraph  in  the  town  rec- 
ords establishes  the  fact  that  in  1631  this  was  the  chief  landing- 
place. 


128  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

The  improvement  by  Mr.  Qaincy  was  the  greatest  enterprise 
of  the  kind  that  had  been  undertaken  in  Boston.  -  By  reference 
to  Quincy's  History,  we  learn  that  "  a  granite  market-house, 
two  stories  high,  535  feet  long,  covering  27,000  feet  of  land, 
was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $  150,000.  Six  new  streets  were 
opened,  and  a  seventh  greatly  enlarged,  including  167,000  feet 
of  land,  and  fiats,  docks,  and  wharf  rights  obtained  to  the 
extent  of  142,000  square  feet.  All  this  was  accomplished  in 
the  centre  of  a  populous  city,  not  only  without  any  tax,  debt, 
or  burden  upon  its  pecuniary  resources,  but  with  large  perma- 
nent additions  to  its  real  and  productive  property."  This  im- 
provement also  facilitated  the  opening  of  Fulton  and  of  Com- 
mercial Streets,  the  latter  making  direct  communication  north 
and  south  instead  of  a  long  detour  through  North  Street.  S. 
S.  Lewis  was  the  projector  of  Commercial  Street. 

Quincy  Market,  though  not  at  once  pecuniarily  successful, 
soon  became  so.  It  is  a  monument  to  Mr.  Quincy's  genius  and 
perseverance.  Any  other  man  would  have  succumbed  to  the 
obstacles  he  had  to  encounter,  but  he  pressed  on  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  his  purpose.  He  invested  the  sluggish  town  with 
new  life,  and  brought  into  practical  use  a  new  watchword,  — 
Progress.  At  a  very  early  hour  Mr.  Quincy  was  in  the  habit 
of  mounting  his  horse,  and  riding  through  every  quarter  of  the 
town,  remedying  evils  or  projecting  new  enterprises. 

The  interior  of  the  market  has  always  been  a  scene  of  attrac- 
tion to  visitors,  and  a  model  of  its  kind.  Admirable  system 
and  order  prevails.  Here  are  haunches  that  would  have  caused 
the  royal  sword  to  leap  from  its  scabbard,  as  when 

"Our  second  Charles  of  fame  facete, 
On  loin  of  beef  did  dine  ; 
He  held  his  sword  pleased  o'er  the  meat, 
'  Rise  up,  our  famed  Sir-loin  ! ' " 

Here  are  sausages  in  festoons  ;  roasting  pig  that  would  have 
made  Charles  Lamb's  mouth  water  ;  vegetables  in  parterres, 
and  fruits  from  every  clime.  Here  one  may  have  fish,  flesh, 
fowl,  or  good  red  herring.  The  countenances  of  those  who 
seek  their  daily  food  before  the  stalls  is  a  study.     The  poor 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.     129 

woman  lingering  over  the  coveted  joint  far  beyond  her  slender 
purse  is  jostled  by  the  dame  who  gives  carte  blanche  to  her 
purveyor.  What  quantities  we  eat  !  Sydney  Smith  thought 
he  had  eaten  wagon-loads  more  than  was  good  for  him.  The 
open  mouths  of  the  gazers  upon  this  scene  of  plenty  have 
been  likened  to  so  many  graves  yawning  for  the  slaughtered 
herds. 

Yet  plenty  has  not  always  prevailed  in  the  town.  Putnam 
came  with  his  drove  of  sheep  to  succor  the  inhabitants  in  1774. 
In  1775  the  Town  Bull,  aged  twenty  years,  was  killed  and  sold 
for  the  use  of  the  generals  and  officers,  at  eighteen  pence  sterling 
per  pound.  Perhaps  Gage,  in  Brattle  Square,  with  his  subordi- 
nates, Howe,  Clinton,  and  Burgoyne,  sat  in  gloomy  conclave 
over  a  tough  morsel  of  the  patriarch,  hoping  vainly  that  "  good 
digestion  might  wait  on  appetite." 

Faneuil  Hall  Market  was  begun  in  1824,  the  corner-stone 
laid  in  1825,  and  was  finished  in  November,  1826.  It  occupied 
a  little  more  than  two  years  in  building.  North  and  South 
Market  Streets  were  built  at  the  same  time,  and  are  respectively 
sixty-five  and  one  hundred  and  two  feet  wide.  The  difference 
in  the  width  of  these  streets,  and  in  fact  the  position  of  the 
market  itself,  is  due  to  the  refusal  of  the  heirs  of  Nathan  Spear 
to  part  with  their  estate  on  any  terms.  By  the  increased  width 
of  Si  nith  Market  Street,  the  difficulty  was  overcome,  as  the  city 
then  took  the  estate  for  the  street  with  a  clear  legal  conscience. 
Codnian's,  Spear's,  Bray's,  and  the  wharves  extending  between 
North  Market  and  State  Streets  towards  the  present  line  of 
Commercial  Street,  were  reclaimed  in  this  great  improvement, 
and  converted  into  solid  ground,  and  Chatham  Street  was  laid 
out. 

Benjamin  Faneuil,  Jr.,  was  in  business  in  Butler's  Row  in 
1767,  which,  before  the  improvements,  entered  Merchants' 
Row  between  Chatham  and  State  Streets.  This  Benjamin 
was  the  nephew  of  Peter,  of  noble  memory,  and  was  one  of 
the  consignees  of  the  tea  ships  whose  cargoes  were  emptied 
into  the,  dock  in  1773. 

As  a  merchant,  John  Hancock  had  a  store  at  the  head  of 


130  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

what  is  now  South  Market  Street,  or,  as  it  was  then  described, 
"Store  No.  4,  at  the  east  end  of  Faneuil  Hall  Market.  A 
general  assortment  of  English  and  India  Goods,  also  choice 
.Newcastle  Coals,  and  Irish  Butter,  cheap  for  Cash.  Said  Han- 
cock desires  those  persons  who  are  still  indebted  to  the  estate 
of  the  late  Hon.  Thomas  Hancock,  Esq.,  deceased,  to  be  speedy 
in  paying  their  respective  balances  to  prevent  trouble."  * 

In  Winthrop's  Journal,  a  market  is  mentioned  as  set  up  by- 
order  of  the  court  in  March,  1G34.  Its  locality  is  not  men- 
tioned, but  it  is  believed  to  have  been  on  the  site  of  the  Old 
State  House.  In  1734  the  town  located  three  markets,  and 
appropriated  £  300  towards  their  erection.  They  were  situ- 
ated in  North  Square,  Dock  Square,  and  on  the  present  ground 
of  Boylston  Market.  A  bell  was  rung  daily  at  sunrise  to  give 
notice  of  the  opening,  and  one  o'clock  p.  m.  was  the  hour  of 
closing.  On  the  4th  of  June  the  three  markets  were  opened 
for  the  first  time,  and  the  people  and  dealers  flocked  in  great 
numbers  to  them. 

The  market  in  Dock  Square  was  always  the  most  fre- 
quented. Faneuil  Hall,  of  Avhich  we  shall  presently  relate  the 
history,  did  not  long  provide  sufficient  accommodations.  At 
the  time  of  Mr.  Quincy's  improvements  there  was  a  row  of 
sheds,  for  the  sale  of  vegetables,  on  the  north  side  of  Faneuil 
Hall,  in  what  is  now  the  street.  The  neighboring  streets  were 
often  obstructed  with  market-wagons,  while  farmers  were  com- 
pelled to  occupy  Union  Street  with  their  stands,  nearly  to  Han- 
over, and  Washington,  almost  to  Court  Street.  In  1819  a 
number  of  citizens  erected  what  was  known  as  the  City  Mar- 
ket, in  the  large  building  at  the  foot  of  Brattle  Street,  now 
used  as  a  furniture  warehouse  by  Blake  and  Alden  ;  the  upper 
part  was  occupied  as  a  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts.  The  General  Court 
refused  to  incorporate  the  proprietors,  and  the  city  subsequently 
rejected  the  offer  of  the  market  as  a  donation. 

Retracing  our  steps  along  North  Market  Street,  the  first 
object  of  interest  is  the  Triangular  "Warehouse,  which  stood  on 
the  border  of  the  town  dock,  opposite  the  swing-bridge,  until 

*  Boston  Evening  Post,  December  25,  1764. 


BBATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK. 


131 


taken  down  in  1824  to  make  room  for  the  sweeping  changes 
then  inaugurated.  Its  site  is  now  covered  hy  the  buildings  at 
the  head  of  North  Market  Street,  with  a  moiety  in  Merchants' 
How  and  Clinton  Street. 

This  singular  old  building  was  built  of  brick,  of  two  stories, 
on  a  stone  foundation,  with  a  tower  at  each  angle  ;  a  tower  also 
rose  from  the  centre  of  the  roof.  Each  of  these  towers  termi- 
nated in  a  pointed  roof  of  slate,  and  were  capped  with  a  stone 
ball  set  in  lead,  except  the  middle  tower,  which  had  a  wooden 
one.  The  strength  with  which  it  was  constructed,  with  the 
quaint  architecture,  led  for  a  time  to  the  supposition  that  it 
was  intended  for  a  Custom  House,  or  some  other  similar 
purpose,  but  no 
proof  being 
found  to  support 
the  belief,  the 
opinion  became 
general  that  it 
was  erected  by 
London  mer- 
chants for  a 
warehouse,  about 
1700. 

One  side  of 
the  Triangular 
Warehouse  fronted  Koebuck  Passage,  which  has  become,  by 
transition,  the  extension  of  Merchants'  Row.  The  passage, 
named  from  a  tavern  called  the  Roebuck,  within  its  limits, 
was  a  tortuous  defile  a  hundred  feet  in  length,  varying  in  width 
from  thirteen  to  twenty  feet,  but  was  still  the  main  thorough- 
fare from  the  market  north  and  south.  The  tavern  itself  was 
a  building  with  a  projecting  upper  story,  and  was  a  notorious 
resort  of  doubtful  repute.  It  was  the  scene  of  at  least  one 
deadly  affray.  Richard  Whittington,  a  descendant  of  the  Lord 
Mayor  of  London,  is  said  to  have  been  the  builder. 

Clinton  Street  was  one  of  the  new  avenues  which  arose  out 
of  the  chaos  of  this  region.     The  Old  Mill  Creek  crossed  it  at 


TRIANC.ri.AR   WAUF.IUirsR. 


132  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

the  point  where  now  stands  the  New  England  House,  the  last 
of  the  Boston  coffee  houses.  The  hotel  is  built  op  made  land. 
The  course  of  the  creek  was  altered  at  this  point,  so  as  to  flow 
through  the  lowei  part  of  Clinton  Street  into  the  harbor,  instead 
of  following  its  old  channel  into  the  dock.  To  effect  this  plan, 
the  city  bought  Governor  Eustis's  wharf,  through  which  the 
creek  found  an  artificial  outlet.  Blackstone  Street  has  taken 
the  place  of  the  creek. 

Opposite  the  north  side  of  Faneuil  Hall  is  a  little  alley,  and 
on  the  alley,  with  a  front  on  North  Street,  is  an  old  landmark. 
This  lofty  wooden  building  of  five  cramped  stories  Avas  the  Old 
Boston  Museum,  established  in  1804,  by  Philip  Woods.  After 
a  removal  to  another  location  in  Dock  Square  for  a  short  time, 
the  Museuru  returned  to  its  old  stand.  In  1822  the  Xew 
England  Museum  fell  heir  to  the  greater  part  of  the  collection. 
The  building  fronted  originally  on  Market  Square,  and  was 
sometimes  designated  the  Market  Museum.  The  timbers  are  a 
foot  square ;  the  chambers  scarcely  allow  a  tall  man  to  stand 
erect,  whilst  the  staircase  in  its  almost  perpendicular  ascent  is 
extremely  suggestive  of  broken  bones. 

At  the  corner  formed  by  Xorth  Street  and  Market  Square 
was  another  of  those  ancient  structures  now  extinct  among  us. 
It  was  known  as  the  "  Old  Cocked  Hat,"  from  its  fancied 
resemblance  to  an  article  of  wear  now  as  obsolete  as  itself. 
Under  the  western  gable,  fronting  Dock  Square,  was  the  date 
of  1680.  The  building  was  of  wood,  covered  with  plaster  on 
the  outside,  with  which  were  mixed  fragments  of  glass  bottles. 
Various  ornamental  figures  were  traced  upon  this  rough  surface. 
On  two  sides,  south  and  southwest,  the  water  once  flowed,  and 
in  digging  not  far  from  here  some  years  ago  to  settle  a  disputed 
boundary  question,  the  capstan  and  ring-bolt  of  the  old  wharf 
were  uncovered  within  the  present  sidewalk. 

The  "  Old  Cocked  Hat  "  was  of  two  stories,  the  upper  pro- 
jecting, and  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  the  year  following 
the  destructive  fire  of  August  3,  1679,  which  began  about 
midnight  and  raged  till  midday  of  the  4th.  A  hundred  and 
fifty  dwellings  and  warehouses,  with  several  ships  and  their 


BRATTLE   SQUARE   AND   THE   TOWN   DOCK. 


133 


ANCIENT   HOUSE    IN   DOCK   SQUARE. 

cargoes,  were  consumed.  This  old  house  was  at  first  a  dwell- 
ing, and  for  a  time,  according  to  Snow,  the  principal  apothe- 
cary's shop  of  the  town  was  kept  there.  It  was  taken  down 
in  July,  18G0. 

The  fame  of  Faneuil  Hall  is  as  wide  as  the  country  itself, 
'ft  has  been  called  the  "  Cradle  of  Liberty,"  because  dedicated 
by  that  early  apostle  of  freedom,  James  Otis,  to  the  cause  of 
liberty,  in  a  speech  delivered  in  the  hall  in  March,  1703. 
Somewhat  of  its  early  history  has  appeared  in  the  account  of 
the  town  government.  Its  walls  have  echoed  to  the  voices  of 
the  great  departed  in  times  gone  by,  and  in  every  great  public 
exigency  the  people,  with  one  accord,  assemble  togetber  to  take 
counsel  within  its  hallowed  precincts.  Though  much  too  small 
for  popular  gatherings  of  the  present  day,  its  long  use  for  this 
purpose,  with  the  many  glorious  associations  that  cluster  around 
it,  still  mark  it  as  the  centre  from  Avhich  the  will  of  the  people 
of  Boston  should  proceed. 

The  Old  Market-bouse,  mentioned  as  existing  in  Dock  Square 
in  1734,  was  demolished  by  a  mob  in  1736-37.     There  was 


134 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


contention  among  the  people  as  to  whether  they  would  be 
served  at  their  houses  in  the  old  way,  or  resort 'to  fixed  locali- 
ties, and  one  set  of  disputants  took  this  summary  method  of 
settling  tlie  question.  IVmberton  says,  this  mob  were  "dis- 
guised like  clergymen." 

In  1740,  the  question  of  the  Market-house  being  revived, 
Peter  Faneuil  proposed  to  build  one  at  his  own  cost  on  the 
town's  land  in  Dock  Square,  upon  condition  that  the  town 
should   legally    authorize    it,    enact    proper    regulations,   and 


FANEUIL   HALL   BEFORE   ITS    ENLARGEMENT. 


maintain  it  for  the  purpose  named.  Mr.  Faneuil's  noble  offer 
was  courteously  received,  but  such  was  the  divisipn  of  opinion 
on  the  subject,  that  it  was  accepted  by  a  majority  of  only  seven 
votes,  out  of  seven  hundred  and  twenty-seven  persons  voting. 
The  building  was  completed  in  September,  17-42,  and  three 
days  after,  at  a  meeting  of  citizens,  the  hall  was  formally 
accepted  and  a  vote  of  thanks  passed  to  the  donor.  Hon. 
Thomas  Cusliing,  the  moderator  of  the  meeting,  the  selectmen, 
and  representatives  of  the  town,  Avere  appointed  a  committee, 
"  to  wait  upon  Peter  Faneuil,  Esq.,  and  in  the  name  of  the 


BRATTLE  SQUAEE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.      135 

town,  to  render  him  their  most  hearty  thanks  for  so  bountiful 
a  gift."  Besides  this,  the  town  voted-  that  the  hall  should  be 
called  Faneuil  Hall  forever  ;  to  procure  Mr.  Faneuil's  portrait 
to  be  placed  therein ;  and  later,  to  purchase  the  Faneuil  arms, 
carved  and  gilt  by  Moses  Deshon,  to  be  fixed  in  the  hall. 

The  first  architect  of  Faneuil  Hall  was  John  Smibert  the 
painter  ;  Samuel  Euggles  was  the  builder.  It  was  not  at  first 
intended  by  Faneuil  to  build  more  than  one  story  for  the 
market,  but  with  noble  generosity  he  went  beyond  his  original 
proposal,  and  built  another  story  for  a  town  hall.  The  original 
size  of  the  building  was  forty  by  one  hundred  feet,  just  half 
the  present  width ;  the  hall  would  contain  one  thousand  per- 
sons. At  the  fire  of  January  13,  1763,  the  whole  interior  was 
destroyed,  but  the  town  voted  to  rebuild  in  March,  and  the 
State  authorized  a  lottery  in  aid  of  the  design.  The  first  meet- 
ing after  the  rebuilding  was  held  on  the  14th  March,  17G3, 
when  James  Otis  delivered  the  dedicatory  address.  In  1806 
the  Hall  was  enlarged  in  width  to  eighty  feet,  and  by  the 
addition  of  a  third  story. 

But  little  is  left  of  the  original  building,  but  a  rule  has  been 
laid  down  for  such  as  may  be  curious  to  trace  the  old  outline  : 
"  Take  a  northeast  view  of  the  Hall,  —  there  are  seven  win- 
dows before  you  in  each  story,  —  run  a  perpendicular  line,  from 
the  ground,  through  the  centre  of  the  middle  window  to  the 
top  of  the  belt,  at  the  bottom  of  the  third  story,  carry  a 
straight  line  from  that  point  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  second 
window,  on  the  right,  in  the  third  story.  That  point  is  the 
apex  of  the  old  pediment.  From  that  point  draw  the  corre- 
sponding roof-line  down  to  the  belt,  at  the  corner;  and  you 
have  a.  profile  of  the  ancient  structure." 

A  grasshopper,  which  si  ill  decorates  the.  vane,  made  by  that 
cunning  artificer  Deacon  Shem  Drowne,  was  long  though!  to  be 
the  crest  of  the  Faneuils  ;  especially  as  a  similar  insect  adorned 
the  vane  of  the,  suinnierdiouse  in  Tremont  Street.  Hut  the  anus 
were  extant  not  many  years  ago  on  some  of  Peter  Faneuil's 
plate,  in  the  possession  of  his  descendants,  and  disproved  this 
theory.     No  better  reason  has  been  assigned  for  the  adoption 


13G 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


KEW   FAXEUIL   HALL,    WITH   QCIXCY   MARKET. 

of  the  grasshopper  than  that  it  was  an  imitation  of  the  vane 
of  the  Eoyal  Exchange,  London. 

Curiously  enough,  the  first  public  oration  delivered  in  Faneuil 
Hall  was  a  funeral  eulogy,  pronounced  on  the  death  of  Peter 
Faneuil,  March  14,  1743,  by  Master  Lovell  of  the  Latin  School. 
In  the  course  of  his  address  the  orator  said,  "May  Liberty 
always  spread  its  joyful  wings  over  this  place.  May  Loyalty 
to  a  king  under  whom  we  enjoy  that  Liberty  ever  remain  our 
character."  Master  Lovell,  himself  a  tory  fugitive  when  Boston 
was  freed  from  the  British  occupation,  did  not  dream  of  the  ful- 
filment of  his  wish  —  divested  of  its  dependence  on  a  king  — 
when  he  uttered  it. 

Faneuil  Hall  was  illuminated,  by  a  vote  of  the  town,  on  the 
news  of  the  repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act,  and  the  selectmen  were 
requested  to  make  provision  for  drinking  the  king's  health. 
During  the  winter  of  1775-76  the  British  officers,  under  the 
patronage  of  General  Howe,  fitted  the  hall  into  a  very  neat 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.      137 

theatre,  devoted  chiefly  to  performances  ridiculing  the  patriots. 
The  Sunday  after  the  battle  of  Lexington  there  was  a  meeting 
held  in  the  hall  by  the  citizens  to  agree  with  General  Gage  on 
regulations  under  which  the  people  might  leave  the  town.  The 
strictness  with  which  the  Sabbath  was  then  observed  testifies 
to  the  importance  the  subject  had  assumed.  Gage  communi- 
cated with  the  meeting  through  Captain  Sheriff,  his  aide-de- 
camp, the  proposal  that  the  inhabitants  might  be  allowed  to 
depart  after  surrendering  their  arms.  Many  of  the  old  provin- 
cial officers,  men  who  had  served  at  Louisburg,  were  present, 
and  viewed  with  deep  chagrin  the  proposition  to  give  up  the 
arms  they  had  worn  in  many  honorable  campaigns.  Gage  had 
the  bad  faith  afterwards  to  render  his  promise  nugatory  by  ap- 
pointing a  Town  Major,  to  whom  applications  were  made.  This 
officer  discriminated  against  those  whose  attachment  to  the 
patriot  cause  was  known. 

In  Faneuil  Hall  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  "  Ancient  and  Hon- 
orable Artillery  Company."  Its  original  designation  was  the 
"  Military  Company  of  the  Massachusetts  "  ;  it  was  also  styled, 
at  different  periods,  "  The  Artillery  Company  "  and  "The Great 
Artillery."  The  name  "Ancient  and  Honorable  "  was  not  ap- 
plied until  1 720 ;  no  military  organization  can  dispute  its  title 
to  be  the  oldest  band  of  citizen-soldiery  in  America.  The  com- 
pany was  formed  in  1637,  and  at  once  applied  for  an  act  of  in- 
corporation, which  was  not  granted,  the  rigid  Puritans  fearing 
t<>  establish  a  privileged  military  body  which  might,  on  occasion, 
subvert  the  government.  The  Praetorian  Band  of  the  Romans 
and  the  Templars  of  Europe  were  cited  to  enforce  this  wise 
determination.  The  company  was,  nevertheless,  permitted  to 
choose  a  captain  and  make  use  of  the  common  arms  in  their 
exercise.     A  charter  was  granted  in  1G38. 

Captain  Keayne,  the  first  commander,  has  been  noticed.  The 
charter  prohibited  any  other  military  company  from  parading 
mi  the  days  appointed  by  law  for  the  "  Artillery  "  ;  and  this  ex- 
clusive privilege  was  maintained  against  the  ""Winslow  Blues," 
in  1808,  when  that  company  assembled  in  Faneuil  Hall  en  one 
of  the  field-days  of  the  "  Ancients." 


138  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

It  docs  not  appear  what  the  uniform  of  the  company  —  if 
any  was  adopted-  was  at  the  beginning.  Blue  and  buff  was 
supposed  to  be  the  dress  in  1738.  By  1770  the  corps  stood 
arrayed  in  gold-laced  hats,  blue  coats,  buff  under-clothes,  and 
silk  stockings,  with  white  linen  spatterdashes.  In  1772  an 
order  was  issued  that  wigs  and  hair  should  be  clubbed.  Some 
few  changes  were  made  in  1787,  when  shoulder-straps,  to  secure 
the  cross-belts,  and  a  black  garter,  worn  below  the  knee,  were 
adopted ;  the  hair  to  be  worn  en  ■  queue.  Chapeau-bras  and 
cockade,  with  black  plume,  eighteen  inches  long,  took  the 
place  of  the  old  cocked-hat  in  1810,  Avith  red  facings  for  the 
coat  instead  of  buff. 

The  company  was  assembled  by  beat  of  drum,  which  re- 
mained the  practice  for  many  years.  On  days  of  parade  the 
drummer  passed  through  the  principal  streets  beating  the  rappel 
vigorously.  The  colors  Avere  displayed  on  these  occasions  from 
Colonel  Daniel  Henchman's  bookstore,  at  the  corner  of  King 
Street  and  Old  Cornhill,  —  the  vacant  area  which  then  existed 
under  the  Old  State  House  serving  the  corps  for  a  rendezvous 
until  the  town  provided  an  armory  in  Faneuil  Hall.  In  1  743 
halberds  were  used  by  sergeants,  and  pikes  and  half-pikes  by 
the  captain  and  lieutenant. 

The  roll  of  the  "  Ancients  "  presents  a  host  of  names  distin- 
guished in  Colonial  and  Bevolutionary  history.  To  enumerate 
them  would  be  impossible  within  our  limits.  The  old  custom 
of  "  Artillery  Election,"  when  the  old  officers  retire  and  the 
new  are  commissioned  by  the  governor,  is  still  scrupulously 
observed.  The  "  Election  Sermon  "  is  still  preached  as  in  the 
days  of  Colman  and  Sewall. 

During  the  reception  of  Count  D'Estaingin  September,  1778, 
a  superb  entertainment  was  given  him  at  Faneuil  Hall,  at  which 
five  hundred  guests  were  present. 

When  Lafayette  was  in  Boston,  in  1784,  the  merchants  gave 
him  a  dinner  at  Faneuil  Hall.  At  every  toast  thirteen  cannon 
were  discharged  in  Market  Square  by  Major  Davis's  train  of 
Artillery.  The  picture  of  Washington  had  been  concealed  by 
drapery,  and  when  in  the  course  of  the  banquet  it  was  un- 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.     139 

veiled,  the  Marquis  rose  to  liis  feet,  clapped  his  hands,  and 
seemed  deeply  moved  as  he  gazed  on  the  features  of  his  old 
commander.  The  audience  was  not  less  affected  than  the  dis- 
tinguished guest.  The  Marquis  was  fond  of  identifying  him- 
self with  the  Americans,  and  in  this  way  won  their  love  and 
admiration.  Being  asked  by  a  lady  on  one  occasion  if  the  black 
cockade  was  not  the  color  worn  by  the  Continental  officers,  he 
replied  :  "  Yes,  madame,  but  we  added  the  white  out  of  com- 
pliment to  the  French  when  they  joined  us." 

The  following  anecdote  is  related  by  Mr.  Dean,  in  his  memoir 
of  Daniel  Messinger  :  — 

"  An  amusing  incident  occurred  once  at  a  dinner  given  Prince 
Jerome  Bonaparte  in  1804.  It  is  stated  on  the  authority  of  Josiah 
Quincy,  that  after  dinner  Colonel  Daniel  Messinger  sang  the  favorite 
old  song  of  'To-morrow.'  As  the  audience  joined  in  the  chorus  of 
'  To-morrow,  To-morrow,'  a  cloud  came  over  the  countenance  of  the 
Prince,  and  taking  his  next  neighbor  by  the  arm  he  exclaimed,  '  To 
Moreau  !  To  Moreau  !  Is  it  a  song  in  honor  of  General  Moreau  1 ' 
He  was  quickly  undeceived,  and  smiled  when  he  found  that  no  one 
but  himself  was  thinking  of  the  great  rival  of  his  brother." 

President  Jackson  visited  Boston  in  June,  1835,  accompanied 
by  Secretaries  Cass  and  Woodbury,  and  Mr.  Poinsett  of  South 
Carolina.  The  occasion  was  the  opening  of  the  new  Dry  Dock 
at  (  harlestown,  and  the  docking  of  the  frigate  Constitution. 
The  President  held  a  public  reception  in  Faneuil  Hall.  Com- 
modore  Hull,  Mr.  Winthrop,  and  Mr.  Van  Buren  were  present. 
The  Vice-president  was  described  as  a  tight,  snug,  compact, 
vigorous-looking  little  body,  with  a  bright,  keen,  twinkling 
little  eye  and  winning  smile.  Both  he  and  Mr.  "Woodbury  were 
very  bald.     Mr.  Cass  was  not  present. 

The  visit  of  the  Prince  de  Joinville  to  Boston  in  November, 
1841,  was  rendered  memorable  by  a  grand  ball  given  in  his 
honor  at  Faneuil  Hall.  The  Prince  had  come  over  to  New 
York  in  La  Belle  Pmde  frigate,  the  same  that  conveyed  the 
ashes  of  the  great  Napoleon  from  St.  Helena  to  France.  The 
town  was  all  agog  for  the  expected  visit  of  the  Prince,  and  when 
he  appeared  at  the  ball  simply  attired  in  a  blue  naval  uniform, 


140  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

the  enthusiasm  was  extreme.  The  Prince  wore  no  decoration, 
cxieii!  the  rihhon  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  and  devoted  himself 
assiduously  to  the  ladies  to  whom  lie  was  introduced.  The  old 
hall  was  beautifully  decorated  with  flags  and  devices  specially 
designed  for  the  occasion. 

Alexander  Baring,  Lord  Ashburton,  negotiator  with  Mr. 
Webster  of  the  treaty  which  bears  his  name,  was  welcomed  to 
Boston  in  Faneuil  Hall,  August  27,  1842,  by  Mayor  Chap- 
man. From  him  Ashburton  Place  takes  its  name.  As  one  of 
the  great  house  of  Baring  Brothers,  he  resided  some  time  in 
the  United  States.  He  and  Webster  were  on  terms  of  close 
intimacy. 

The  Earl  of  Elgin,  while  governor-general  of  Canada,  visited 
Boston  to  attend  the  jubilee  upon  the  opening  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway.  He  was  accompanied  by  a  numerous  staff, 
and  received  the  honor  of  a  grand  ball  at  Faneuil  Hall. 
Among  the  officers  who  accompanied  him,  none  attracted  more 
attention  than  those  of  a  Higldand  regiment,  —  stalwart,  bare- 
legged fellows  in  bonnet,  kilt,  and  tartan. 

Among  the  attractions  to  the  old  Cradle  of  Liberty,  the  por- 
traits which  adorn  the  walls  are  not  the  least,  and  it  is  to  be 
regretted  that  some  which  have  hung  there  and  would  now  be 
highly  prized  were  either  destroyed  or  spirited  away  by  vandal 
hands.  Shortly  after  the  death  of  Mr.  Faneuil,  Governor  Shir- 
ley informed  the  selectmen  that  he  had  received  his  Majesty's 
picture  through  the  hands  of  the  Duke  of  Grafton,  and  soon 
after  the  likeness  of  George  II.  was  hung  in  the  hall.  The 
town  had  solicited  the  portraits  of  Colonel  Barre  and  General 
Conway,  their  able  defenders  on  the  floor  of  Parliament.  The 
request  was  complied  with,  and  the  pictures  sent  over  in  17G7, 
but  they  disappeared  from  the  hall  after  the  British  evacuated 
the  town. 

The  west  end  of  the  hall  is  covered  with  paintings.  The 
large  picture  by  Healey,  representing  "Webster  replying  to 
Hayne  in  the  Senate,  first  attracts  the  view.  The  portraits  of 
John  Hancock  and  Samuel  Adams  are  by  Copley,  as  is  that 
of  Joseph  Warren.     The  Adams  has  been  called  Copley's  mas- 


BRATTLE  SQUARE  AND  THE  TOWN  DOCK.     141 

ter-piece,  and  was  painted  for  Governor  Hancock,  but  on  the  sale 
of  his  effects  became  the  property  of  S.  A.  "Wells,  and  finally  of 
Adam  W.  Thaxter,  who  presented  it  in  1842  to  the  city.  The 
full  length  of  Peter  Faneuil  is  a  copy  of  a  smaller  painting  in 
the  Historical  Society's  possession.  It  is  by  Colonel  Henry  Sar- 
gent, and  was  presented  by  Samuel  Parkman,  as  was  also  the  full 
length  of  Washington,  by  Stuart.  The  portraits  of  Rufus  Choate 
and  Abraham  Lincoln  are  by  Ames,  that  of  Governor  Andrew  by 
Hunt.  General  Henry  Knox  is  by  Gilbert  Stuart.  Commo- 
dore Preble,  one  of  the  only  two  he  ever  sat  for,  is  probably  a 
Stuart.     The  superb  clock  was  the  gift  of  the  school  children. 

Corn  Court  took  its  name  from  the  corn  market  which  was 
once  held  on  the  south  side  of  the  Town  Dock.  Entering  its 
recesses,  unknown  to  half  the  toAvn,  we  find  the  oldest  inn  in 
Boston,  now  called  the  Hancock  House.  This  may  well  have 
been  the  site  of  Samuel  Cole's  old  inn.  Altered  in  some  re- 
spects, the  building  presents  a  front  of  brick,  with  wooden  side- 
walls.  A  dilapidated  sign,  bearing  the  weather-stained  features 
of  Governor  Hancock,  retains  a  feeble  hold  of  its  fastenings. 

This  was  the  old  Brasier  Inn,  at  which  Talleyrand  sojourned 
when  in  Boston  in  1795.  He  afterwards  became  the  guest  of 
Mr.  William  Lee,  in  Water  Street.  Mr.  Lee's  residence,  a 
two-story  wooden  house,  stood  near  the  site  of  the  new  Post- 
Office,  and  was  removed  not  many  years  ago.  Talleyrand,  the 
future  prime  minister  and  evil  genius  of  JSTapoleon,  was  ban- 
ished from  France,  and  made  his  way  to  the  United  States, 
accompanied  by  the  Due  de  la  Rochefoucauld  Liancourt  and 
M.  de  Beaumetz.  At  the  same  time  Robespierre  proscribed 
him  in  France,  Pitt  also  proscribed  him  in  England.  He  went 
first  to  Philadelphia,  where  Congress  was  sitting,  and  entered 
freely  into  the  political  questions  then  being  agitated,  lie  was 
intimate  with  Jefferson,  and  intrigued  with  the  opposition  to 
prevent  the  accomplishment  of  a  treaty  between  England  and 
the  United  States.  On  his  return  to  France,  after  an  absence 
of  little  more  than  a  year,  he  was  accused  of  having  worn  the 
white  cockade  in  America.  He  wrote  from  the  United  States 
to  Madame  de  Genlis  :  "I  think  no  more  of  my  enemies;  I 
occupy  myself  in  repairing  my  fortune." 


142  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Talleyrand  visited  the  studio  of  Gilbert  Stuart.  The  latter, 
who  was  a  great  physiognomist,  after  an  attentive  examination  of 
the  features  of  his  visitor,  remarked  to  a  friend,  "  If  that  man 
is  not  a  villain,  the  Almighty  does  not  write  a  legible  hand." 
Talleyrand  was  no  friend  to  the  United  States,  as  was  soon 
manifest  in  the  capture  of  our  vessels  by  the  French  cruisers 
when  he  came  into  power,  wliich  resulted  in  a  quasi  state  of 
war  with  the  French  Republic. 

M.  de  Talleyrand  returned  to  Europe  in  an  American  vessel, 
commanded  by  a  man  named  Vidal,  to  whom  he  took  a  great 
liking.  He  signalized  his  arrival  in  Hamburg  by  an  amour, 
which,  in  its  deplorable  results,  made  the  language  of  Stuart 
prophetic.  His  adventure  with  the  young  and  beautiful  Baron- 
ess de  S ,  a  pupil  of  Madame  de  Genlis,  is  a  matter  of 

hist  ry.  The  unfortunate  lady,  better  known  as  "  Cordelia," 
being  deserted  by  Talleyrand,  put  an  end  to  her  life  with  a 
small  American  penknife,  the  gift  of  her  lover,  which  she 
thrust  into  her  heart.  Upon  her  table  was  found  an  open  note 
directed  to  M.  de  Talleyrand.    The  contents  were  as  follows  :  — 

"  I  have  burnt  all  your  letters.  They  did  no  honor  to  my  menu  iry 
nor  to  your  heart.  You  are  the  author  of  my  death  ;  may  God  for- 
give  you,  as  I  do  !  "Cordelia." 

The  brick  building  now  occupied  as  a  wine  store,  on  the 
south  side  of  Faneuil  Hall,  is  one.  of  the  antiquities  of  the 
neighborhood,  having  stood  for  nearly  a  century  unmoved 
amid  the  mutations  that  have  swept  over  that  locality. 

Opposite  the  southeast  corner  of  Faneuil  Hall  was  located 
the  Custom  House  under  the  State  government,  James  Lord, 
Collector.     Hon.  James  Lovell  was  Collector  in  1789. 

Dock  Square  was  the  scene  of  one  of  the  incidents  of  the 
Conscription  Riots  of  1863.  The  mob,  after  a  fruitless  assault 
upon  the  gun-house  in  Cooper  Street,  proceeded  in  this  direction 
with  intent  to  supply  themselves  with  arms  from  the  stores  of 
the  dealers  in  weapons.  They  were  so  promptly  met,  however, 
by  the  police  force,  which  behaved  with  signal  bravery  on  this 
occasion,  that  no  serious  results  followed,  and,  the  military  soon 
arriving  on  the  ground,  the  riot  fell  still-born. 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      143 


CHAPTEE   V. 

FROM    BOSTON    STONE    TO    THE    NORTH    BATTERY. 

The  North  End. — Boston  Stone. — Painter's  Arms. — Louis  Philippe. — 
Union,  Elm,  and  Portland  Streets.  —  Benjamin  Franklin's  Residence.  — 
The  Blue  Ball. — Lyman  Beecher's  Church. — Benjamin  Hallowell. — 
Green  Dragon.  —  Pope  Day.  —  St.  Andrew's  Lodge.  —  Mill  Pond.  —  ( Cause- 
way. —  Mill  Creek.  —  North  Street.  —  Sir  D.  Ochterlony.  —  Eastern  Stage  - 
House.  —  Cross  Street.  —  The  Old  Stone  House.  —  New  Brick  Church.  — 
The  Red  Lyon.  —  Nicholas  Upshall.  —  Edward  Randolph.  — North  Square. 

—  Sir  H.  Frankland.  —  Major  Shaw.  —  Pitcairn.  —  Old  North  Church.  — 
Cotton,  Samuel,  and  Increase  Mather.  —  Governor  Hutchinson.  —  General 
Boyd.  — Fleet  Street.  — King's  Head  Tavern.  — Bethel  Church.  —  Father 
Taylor.  — Hancock's  Wharf.  — Swinging  Signs.  — First  Universalis!  Church. 

—  First  Methodist.  —  New  North.  —  Ship  Tavern.  —  Noah's  Ark.  —  Salu- 
tation Tavern.  —  The  Boston  Caucus.  —  The  North  Battery.  —  Trucks  and 
Truckmen. 


WE  now  invite  the  reader  to  accompany  us  into  the  North 
End,  a  section  of  the  town  which  became  settled  after 
the  more  central  portion  Ave  have  been  traversing.  It  contains 
more  of  its  original  features  than  any  other  quarter ;  many  of 
its  old  thoroughfares  are  but  little  altered,  and  retain  their 
ancient  names.  As  for  the  buildings,  as  we  plunge  deeper  into 
this  region,  we  shall  find  some  of 
those  old  structures  that  still  link 
us  to  the  olden  time.  Weather- 
stained,  tottering,  and  decrepit  as 
they  are,  not  many  years  Avill 
elapse  before  the  antiquary  will 
seek  in  vain  for  their  relics. 

Imbedded  in  the  rear  Avail  of  a 
building  which  fronts  on  Hanover 
Street,   and   presents   its  Avesterly 
side  to  Marshall  Street,  is  the  Boston  Stone.     Of  the  thou- 
sands avIio  daily  hurry  through  this  narrow  way,  tire  greater 


144  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

part  are  unconscious  of  its  existence.  The  stone  bears  the 
date  1 7-37,  and  seems  to  have  got  its  name  from  the  famous 
London  Stone,  which  served  as  a  direction  fur  the  fehops  in  its 
neighborhood,  as  did  the  Boston  Stone  for  its  vicinity.  It  was 
brought  from  England  about  1700,  and  was  used  as  a  paint- 
mill  by  the  painter  who  then  occupied  a  little  shop  on  these 
premises.  The  spherical  stone  which  now  surmounts  its  fellow 
was  the  grinder,  and  was  for  a  time  lost,  but  was  discovered  in 
digging  the  foundation  for  the  present  edifice.  The  larger  stone 
is  only  a  fragment  of  the  original,  which  was  split  into  four 
pieces  when  placed  in  its  present  position.  Its  capacity  is  said 
to  have  been  nearly  two  barrels. 

Following  the  custom  of  the  times,  the  painter  placed  in  the 
front  of  his  house  the  coat  of  arms  carved  in  wood  now  in  the 
Hanover  Street  front,  from  which  his  dwelling  was  known  as 
the  "Painter's  Arms."  Though  it  bears  the  date  of  1701,  the 
coat  of  arms,  representing  probably  the  guild  of  painters,  ap- 
pears in  excellent  preservation.  In  1835  the  old  "  Painter's 
Arms  "  was  taken  down,  and  the  tablet  transferred  to  the  build- 
ing which  replaced  it. 

Opposite  to  Boston  Stone  is  an  antiquated  but  well-preserved 
brick  building  standing  quietly  aloof  from  the  neighboring  and 
busy  street.  This  building  makes  the  corner  —  on  Creek  Lane 
— ■  of  a  row  of  three  or  four  venerable  brick  structures  extend- 
ing towards  Blackstone  Street.  These  were  built  shortly  after 
the  peace  by  John  Hancock,  and  are  to  this  day  called  "  Han- 
cock's How."  Times  were  depressed,  and  Hancock's  bounty  gave 
employment  to  many  deserving  and  needy  artisans.  The  row 
at  first  extended  to  the  creek  whose  waters  have  long  since 
ceased  to  flow. 

The  building  first  mentioned  was  the  office  of  Ebenezer 
Hancock,  brother  of  the  governor,  and  deputy  paymaster-gen- 
eral of  the  Continental  army.  Here,  when  the  town  was  under 
the  government  of  Greene  and  Heath  and  Gates,  a  sentinel 
paced  before  the  door,  never,  we  may  believe,  deserted  by  the 
needy  officers  of  the  Continental  line.  The  lower  floor  has 
groaned  beneath  the  weight  of  the  French  crowns  sent  us  by 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      145 

his  Most  Christian  Majesty,  our  excellent  ally,  brought  over 
by  the  fleet  of  D'Estaing. 

How  the  poor  fellows'  eyes  must  have  sparkled  when  they 
received  their  long  arrears  in  King  Louis's  bright  sdver 
crowns !  The  order  of  Gates  or  Heath  was  now  a  talisman  to 
unlock  the  strong-box  of  the  paymaster,  and  for  once  it  was 
not  empty.  Paymaster  Hancock  occupied  the  house  also  as  his 
residence. 

William  Pierce  was  a  well-known  barber  at  Boston  Stone  in 
1789,  and  he  continued  to  follow  his  calling  until  nearly  a 
hundred  years  old.  His  shop  was  a  sort  of  exchange  for  the 
gossip  current  at  the  North  End,  and  was  frequented  by  many 
celebrated  residents  of  that  locality.  It  was  Pierce's  boast  that 
he  had  shaved  Franklin,  and  he  related  that  Franklin  told  him 
he  was  born  at  the  corner  of  Union  and  Hanover  Streets.  He 
had  also  preserved  a  tradition  that  the  Hancocks  formerly 
resided  in  Hatters'  Square.  John  Norman,  also  known  as  an 
engraver  of  some  repute,  had  his  printing-office  at  Boston  Stone 
in  1784. 

At  the  corner  of  Marshall  and  Union  Streets  lived,  in  1798, 
James  Amblard,  a  tailor.  Amblard,  a  Frenchman  by  birth, 
had  the  honor  of  being  the  host  of  the  Due  de  Chartres,  after- 
wards Louis  Philippe,  during  his  residence  in  Boston,  to  which 
allusion  has  been  made.  "While  awaiting  funds  from  Europe, 
Louis  found  himself  obliged  to  resort  to  teaching  the  French 
language  here,  until  he  and  his  brothers  were  relieved  by  remit- 
tances from  their  mother.  The  Duke  returned  to  London  in 
1800,  and  resided  at  Twickenham.  According  to  Mr.  Nason, 
the  future  king  of  France  was  intimate  with  the  father  of  AN "m. 
B.  Fowle,  Esq.,  the  educator,  and  often  played  chess  with  him 
of  an  evening,  presenting  on  his  departure  a  set  of  chessmen 
still  preserved  in  the  family. 

Union  Street  was  named  from  the  British  FTnion.  Creek 
Lane  reminds  us  of  the  mill  creek  to  which  it  led.  Cole  Lane, 
or  Cold  Lane,  has  taken  the  name  of  Portland  Street,  and  at 
first  extended  only  as  far  as  the  Mill  Pond.  Elm  Street  was 
Wing's  Lane.  Elm,  Hanover,  and  Salem  Streets  were  all 
7  J 


146 


LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


widened  under  the  town  government ;   before  this  they  were 
the  merest  lanes. 

Emerging  from  Union  Street  into  Hanover,  we  stand  on  the 
corner  which  disputes  with  Milk  Street  the  honor  of  being  the 
birthplace  of  Benjamin  Franklin.  The  student  who  patiently 
investigates  the  claims  of  the  rival  localities  will  be  likely  at 
last  to  exclaim  with  Mercutio,  — 

"A  plague  o'  both  the  houses  ! " 

Franklin's  own  statement,  as  given  by  himself  to  a  person 
worthy  of  credit,  was  that  he  was  born  on  this  now  famous 
corner,  while  other  evidence  goes  to  contradict  it.  That  his 
early  youth  Avas  passed  here  is  certain.  Here  he  practised  the 
art  of  making  tallow  candles  for  his  father,  and  employed  his 
leisure  in  throwing  rubbish  into  the  neighboring  Mill  Pond. 
From  here  he  wended  his  way  through  Hanover  and  Court 
Streets  to  the  Latin  School,  and,  after  his  father's  business 
became  distasteful  to  him,  to  his  brother's  printing-office  in 
Queen  Street. 

The  sign  of  Josias  Franklin,  father  of  Benjamin,  was  a  Blue 

Ball,  suspended  by  an 
iron  rod  from  the  front 
of  his  shop,  which  stood 
at  the  southeast  corner 
of  Hanover  and  Union 
Streets.  Before  the  streets 
were  numbered,  and  while 
the  buildings  were  scat- 
tered, it  was  the  universal 
custom  among  the  inhab- 
itants to  designate  their 
shops  by  some  emblem.  Thus  we  find  the  "  Heart  and  Crown," 
"  Tliree  Xuns  and  a  Comb,"  and  "  Brazen  Head  "  in  Cornhill, 
"  Three  Doves  "  in  Marlborough  Street,  "  Tun  and  Bacchus  " 
and  "Three  Sugar  Loaves  and  Canister"  in  King  Street.  This 
last  was  thus  distinguished  from  the  "Two  Sugar  Loaves" 
in  Cornhill :  — 


THE    BLUE   BALL. 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE  TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      147 


SIGN   OF  THREE   DOVE9. 


"  Oft  the  peasant  with  inquiring  face, 
Bewildered,  trudges  on  from  place  to  place  ; 
He  dwells  on  every  sign  with  stupid  gaze, 
Enters  the  narrow  alley's  doubtful  maze, 
Tries  every  winding  court  and  street  in  vain, 
And  doubles  o'er  his  weary  steps  again. " 

The  old  house  was  quite  small  and  of  two  stories,  to  which 
a  third  was  added  in  later  times.  It  was 
partially  destroyed  by  tire  in  1858,  and 
in  the  same  year  the  city  took  the  build- 
ing to  widen  Union  Street.  When  the 
widening  of  Hanover  Street  took  place, 
the  old  site  was  partially  taken  for  that 
street.  In  the  same  way,  by  the  plan  of 
cutting  off  wholly  from  one  side  of  the 
street,  a  number  of  quite  noted  landmarks 
disappeared.  It  was  the  intention  of  the 
owners  to  have  removed  the  Franklin 
building  to  another  location,  but  it  was 
found  impracticable.  Two  relics  of  it  are,  however,  preserved. 
The  Blue  Ball  is  in  the  possession  of  General  Ebenezer  W. 
Stone  of  Boston,  and  from  the  original  timbers  was  made  a 
chair  which  was  presented  to  the  Mechanic  Charitable  Asso- 
ciation. 

There  are  two  original  portraits  of  Franklin  in  the  Public  Li- 
brary,—one  by  Duplessis,  presented  by  Hon.  Edward  Brooks; 
the  other  by  Greuze,  presented  by  Gardner  Brewer. 

Corresponding  with  No.  97  Hanover  Street,  once  stood  the 
church  of  Dr.  Lyman  Beecher,  the  eminent  divine,  father  of 
Henry  Ward  Beecher.  The  church  was  erected  in  1826,  and 
consumed  by  fire  on  the  night  of  the  31st  December,  1829. 
Report  says,  a  quantity  of  liquor  was  found  by  the  firemen  in 
tin-  cellar.  It  was  built  of  rough  granite,  had  a  central  tower, 
and  in  general  appearance  was  not  unlike  the  old  Brattle  Street, 
After  the  destruction  of  their  house,  the  society  united  in  build- 
ing the,  church  in  Bowdoin  Street,  which  was  completed  in 
June,  1831.  Dr.  Beecher  was  the  first  pastor,  having  been  set- 
tled in  March,  182G,  but  in  1832  he   removed  to  Cincinnati. 


148  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

The  society  was  originally  formed  from  members  of  Park  Street, 
the  Okl  South,  ami  Union  Churches. 

The  Hanover  Church  stood  on  the  site  of  Benjamin  Hallow- 
ell's  old  residence,  which  was  ransacked  by  the  same  mob  that 
pillaged  Lieutenant-Governor  Hutchinson's  house  in  August, 
1765.  Mr.  Hallo  well  was  a  comptroller  of  customs,  and  as 
such,  regarded  with  special  hatred  by  the  populace.  The  mob 
destroyed  or  carried  off  everything  of  value,  including  a  small 
sum  of  silver.  Halloweli  then  removed  to  an  elegant  mansion 
at  Jamaica  Plain,  which  was  afterwards  confiscated.  One  of 
his  sons,  B.  Carew,  became  a  distinguished  British  admiral. 
Hon.  John  Coffin  Jones  also  lived  on  the  Halloweli  estate. 
Captain  Henry  Prentiss,  a  Eevolutionary  soldier  and  one  of 
the  Tea  Party,  lived  also  on  this  spot.  He  was  a  distinguished 
merchant  and  ship-owner. 

The  Green  Dragon  Tavern  in  Union  Street  was  the  greatest 
celebrity  among  all  the  old  Boston  hostelries.  It  stood  facing 
towards  the  street,  on  a  little  alley  running  from  Union  Street 
around  by  the  rear,  but  by  the  increased  width  of  the  street 
the  site  now  abuts  upon  it,  and  is  marked  by  a  freestone  tablet 
set  in  the  wall  with  a  dragon  sculptured  upon  it  in  bas-relief.* 
This  was  the  sign  of  the  old  tavern,  which  was  on  the  west 
side  of  Union,  a  short  distance  from  Hanover  Street.  In  early 
times  it  was  the  property  of  Lieutenant-Governor  Stoughton, 
and  was  used  as  a  hospital  during  the  Revolution.  It  was  a 
two-story  brick  building  with  pitch  roof.  From  above  the  en- 
trance projected  an  iron  rod  on  which  was  crouched  the  fabled 
monster  of  antiquity. 

William  Stoughton,  Lieutenant-Governor  from  1692  to  his 
death  in  1701,  was  one  of  the  "  Council  of  Safety"  which 
deposed  Andros.  As  Chief  Justice  of  the  Court  he  has 
acquired  a  fearful  celebrity  in  connection  with  the  witchcraft 
trials. 

We  have  seen  that  Warren,  John  Adams,  Revere,  and  Otis 
were  neighbors.  The  former  was  the  first  Grand  Master  of  the 
first  Grand  Lodge  of  Masons  who  held  their  meetings  in  the 

*  Many  think  the  tablet  incorrectly  placed. 


FROM   BOSTON    STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      149 

Green  Dragon.  The  rest  of  the  patriots  came  here  to  plan  or 
to  confer.  How  mnch  "treason"  was  hatched  under  this  roof 
will  never  be  known,  but  much  was  unquestionably  concocted 
within  the  walls  of  the  masonic  lodge.  It  is  upon  their  record 
that  they  adjourned  on  account  of  the  memorable  Tea  Party, 
for  which  they  furnished  no  inconsiderable  number. 

Paul  Revere  says  :  "  In  the  fall  of  1774  and  winter  of  1775 
I  was  one  of  upwards  of  thirty,  chiefly  mechanics,  who  formed 
ourselves  into  a  committee  for  the  purpose  of  watching  the 
movements  of  the  British  soldiers  and  gaining  every  intelli- 
gence of  the  movements  of  the  tories.  We  held  our  meetings 
at  the  Green  Dragon  Tavern.  This  committee  were  astonished 
to  And  all  their  secrets  known  to  General  Gage,  although  every 
time  they  met,  every  member  swore  not  to  reveal  any  of  their 
transactions  except  to  Hancock,  Adams,  Warren,  Otis,  Church, 
and  one  or  two  more."  The  traitor  proved  to  be  Dr.  Church, 
who  was  afterwards  arrested  for  treasonable  correspondence 
with  the  enemy. 

The  early  meetings  of  the  Massachusetts  Charitable  Associa- 
tion, organized  in  1 795,  were  held  here  and  at  Concert  Hall. 
It  was  always  a  favorite  resort  for  the  mechanics  of  the  North 
End.  When  the  convention  was  sitting  which  was  to  consider 
the  adoption  of  the  Federal  Constitution,  a  great  mass  meeting 
of  Boston  mechanics  assembled  in  the  Green  Dragon,  which 
gave  so  emphatic  an  expression  in  favor  of  its  acceptance  that 
Samuel  Adams  said,  "  If  they  want  it,  they  must  have  it." 

One  of  the  old  customs  long  observed  in  Boston  was  the 
celebration  of  Pope  Day,  as  November  5th,  the  anniversary  of 
the  Gunpowder  Plot,  was  called.  A  bitter  animosity  existed 
between  the  North  and  South  Enders,  whose  line  of  demarca- 
tion was  the  Mill  Bridge  on  Hanover  Street.  Each  section  had 
its  procession  and  its  pope,  and  when  the  rival  parties  met,  a 
baltle  ensued  with  lists,  sticks,  and  stones,  and  one  or  the  other 
of  the  popes  was  captured.  The  North  End  pope  was  never, 
it  is  said,  taken  but  once. 

Pope  Day  was  a  saturnalia.  A  stage  was  erected  on  wheels, 
on  which  was  placed  a  figure  of  the  pope  seated  in  a  chair. 


150  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Behind  this  was  a  female  scarecrow  called  Xancy  Dawson,  with 
effigies  of  Admiral  Byng  and  the  Devil  hanging  from  a  gallows. 
Much  ill-blood  arose  from  these  conflicts,  the  effects  of  which 
remained  until  the  anniversary  came  round  again.  Governor 
Hancock,  considering  this  foolish  rivalry  prejudicial  to  the  pa- 
triot cause,  used  every  effort  to  subdue  it,  but  without  effect. 
He  at  last  gave  a  supper  at  the  Green  Dragon  Tavern,  which 
cost  him  $  1,000,  to  which  he  invited  all  the  leading  men  of 
both  parties,  and  invoked  them  in  an  eloquent  speech  to  lay 
aside  their  animosity  for  their  country's  sake.  The  appeal  was 
successful,  and  the  rival  parties  shook  hands  before  they  sepa- 
rated. From  that  time  Pope  Day  ceased  to  agitate  the  warring 
factions.* 

The  Green  Dragon,  also  known  as  the  "  Freemason's  Arms," 
is  specially  noted  in  the  annals  of  Masonry  in  Boston.  It  was 
purchased  by  St.  Andrew's  Lodge  before  the  Eevolution,  and 
remained  in  their  possession  more  than  a  century.  The  lodge 
was  organized  under  a  charter  from  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Scot- 
land in  1756,  and  was  chiefly  composed  of  residents  of  the 
North  End.  There  were  several  lodges  in  the  British  regi- 
ments that  landed  in  Boston  in  1768  and  1774,  and  St.  An- 
drew's Lodge  united  with  them  in  organizing  a  Grand  Lodge. 
The  first  Lodge  of  Freemasons  met  in  Boston  Jidy  30,  1733. 
It  was  the  first  in  the  Colonies,  receiving  authority  from  Lord 
Montague,  Grand  Master  of  England.  Daniel  "Webster  styled 
the  Green  Dragon  the  Headquarters  of  the  Eevolution,  a  name 
to  which  it  has  an  undoubted  claim.  In  the  Green  Dragon  the 
Sandemanians  held  their  first  meetings  in  America.  In  later 
times  it  was  kept  by  Daniel  Simpson,  the  veteran  musician. 
On  the  corner  where  now  stands  the  Baptist  Church  building 
was  formerly  a  brewery. 

The  Mill  Pond,  or  Cove,  mentioned  in  the  Introduction,  once 
covered  all  the  tract  embraced  within  North  and  South  Margin 
Streets,  being  divided  from  the  sea  on  the  northwest  by  the 
Causeway,  now  Causeway  Street.  The  station-house  of  the 
Boston  and  Maine  Eailway  stands  in  the  midst  of  this  Mill 

*  General  Sumner's,  Reminiscences. 


SHpj  ^tstorg  of  %  01b  ^mjflj 


(The  following  was  written  by  William  Everett  in  1876,  when  it  waa  planned 
to  sell  the  Old  South  Meeting-house,  and  the  land  under  it  separately,  with  a 
provision  that  the  Meeting-house  must  be  torn  down.  The  movement,  in 
which  what  is  written  below  was  of  great  assistance,  was  successful,  and  the 
Old  South  Meeting-house  was  saved  for  us  all.) 


HERE  was  the  garden  originally  granted  to  John  Winthrop, 
the  great  governor;  and  here  he  died,  26th  March,  1649. 

Here,  after  Winthrop's  death,  lived  Rev.  John  Norton,  chosen  by 
John  Cotton  on  his  death-bed,  as  his  successor,  and  called  by  Cotton 
Mather  "the  chief  of  our  burning  and  shining  lights."  Here  he  died 
6th  April,  1663. 

Here,  in  John  Norton's  household,  was  bred  Increase  Mather,  to 
whom  New  England  and  Harvard  College  owe  so  much. 

Here  was  built,  in  16G9,  the  first  house  of  worship  of  the  Third 
or  Old  South  Church,  which  withdrew  from  the  First  Church,  to  pro- 
vide a  more  liberal  entrance  into  the  Church,  and  consequently  a 
wider  civil  franchise.  This  ground  was  given  them  by  Madam  Mary 
Norton. 

Here  Sir  Edmund  Andros  forcibly  caused  the  Episcopal  form  of 
worship  to  be  celebrated. 

Here,  in  the  Old  House,  in  1696,  Judge  Sewall  stood  up  in  his  pew, 
while  his  confession  of  contrition  was  read  for  his  share  in  the  witch- 
craft delusion  of  1692. 

In  1691,  Josiah  Franklin  was  allowed  to  build  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  on  Jan.  17,  1706,  here,  in  the  old  meeting-house,  Benjamin 
Franklin  was  baptized. 

Here,  [perhaps]  in  the  same  year,  a  town-meeting  was  held  to  con- 
sult on  fortifying  the  harbor  against  an  expected  French  invasion. 

In  March,  1729,  the  old  cedar  meeting-house,  which  had  stood  for 
two  generations,  was  pulled  down;  a  new  one  of  brick  was  begun 
forthwith,  and  here,  on  the  26th  April,  1730,  was  dedicated  this 
meeting-house,  the  existing  Old  South.  It  was  built  according  to 
the  best  taste  of  the  time,  and  forcibly  recalls  Sir  Christopher  Wren's 
churches.  The  inside  has  undergone  repairs  and  renovations,  as 
have  the  contemporary  College  Halls  at  Cambridge  and  any  build- 
ings of  that  age  that  have  received  equally  rough  usage.  These 
repairs  have  always  strictly  preserved  its  character. 


In  this  building,  in  October,  1746,  at  the  rumor  of  the  coming  of 
D'Anville's  fleet,  Rev.  Thomas  Prince,  the  pastor,  and  a  historical 
scholar  of  the  first  eminence,  prayed  the  Almighty's  help — 

"  And  even  as  I  prayed 
The  answering  tempest  came; 
It  came  with  a  mighty  power, 
Shaking  the  windows  and  walls, 
And  tolling  the  bell  in  the  tower 
As  it  tolls  at  funerals. 
The  fleet  it  overtook, 
And  the  broad-sails  in  the  van 
Like  the  tents  of  Cushan  shook, 
Or  the  curtains  of  Midian. 
Down  on  the  reeling  decks. 
Crashed  the  o'erwhelming  seas, — 
O  never  were  there  wrecks 
So  terrible  as  these." — Longfellow. 

When  the  colonies  came  into  collision  with  Great  Britain,  and 
Faneuil  Hall  proved  repeatedly  too  small  for  the  town-meetings  of 
the  patriots,  they  were  adjourned  here,  and  an  "Old  South  meeting" 
became  famous  to  Chatham  and  Burke. 

In  this  House,  on  June  14,  1768,  James  Otis  being  moderator,  a 
meeting  was  held  to  compel  Governor  Bernard  to  remove  from  the 
harbor  a  war  vessel,  stationed  to  enforce  the  odious  impressment 
and  customs  laws. 

In  this  House,  in  March,  1770,  after  the  Boston  massacre,  an 
overflowing  town-meeting  waited  till  night,  while  Samuel  Adams 
went  back  and  forward  to  the  State  House  till  Hutchinson  yielded 
and  withdrew  the  regiments. 

In  this  House,  on  Nov.  29,  1773,  a  meeting  of  five  thousand  citi- 
zens resolved  that  the  tea  should  not  be  landed,  and  in  this  House, 
on  Dec.  16, 1773,  a  meeting  of  several  thousand  citizens  sat  till  after 
candlelight  listening  to  Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.,  and  Samuel  Adams, 
while  messenger  after  messenger  went  to  get  redress  of  Hutchinson, 
at  Milton.  He  refused,  and  at  the  doors  of  this  House  the  war-whoop 
was  raised,  the  citizens  disguised  as  savages  led  the  way  to  the  tea- 
ships,  and  the  tea  was  destroyed. 

Here,  June  27,  1774,  the  tories  attempted  to  capture  a  town- 
meeting  in  the  interests  of  Gage  and  the  Boston  Port-bill,  censure 
the  Committee  of  Correspondence,  and  nip  the  Continental  Congress 
in  the  bud,  and  it  sat  for  two  days,  ending  in  the  triumph  of  the 
patriots  and  the  sustaining  of  the  Committee. 
,  Here  were  delivered  the  series  of  orations  from  1771  to  1775,  com- 
memorative of  the  Boston  Massacre,  by  Lovell,  Warren,  Church, 
Hancock,  and  for  the  second  time  by  Joseph  Warren,  three  months 
before  he  was  killed  at  Bunker  Hill.  He  was  introduced  through  a 
window  in  the  rear  of  the  pulpit,  the  aisles  and  steps  of  the  pulpit 
being  filled  with  British  soldiers  and  officers. 


Here,  in  1775,  by  order  of  General  Burgoyne,  a  riding  school  for 
British  croops  was  established,  pews  and  pulpits  being  torn  away 
and  broken  up;  and  when  Washington  made  his  triumphal  entry 
into  Boston,  in  March,  1776,  he  paused,  and  entering  this  building, 
looked  down  from  the  eastern  gallery  on  the  scene  of  desolation. 

Here,  finally,  for  a  long  number  of  years,  had  been  preached  the 
annual  election  sermon  before  the  governor  and  legislature  of  Massa- 
chusetts. 

The  ground  where  the  Old  South  stands, — the  old  meetinghouse, 
first  built  there,  and  the  present  meeting-house — have  been  the  scene 
of  some  of  the  greatest  crises,  guided  by  some  of  the  greatest  men 
in  our  history.  We  want  to  keep  on  this  ground,  where  such  things 
happened,  this  building,  in  which  such  men  worked. 

WILLIAM  EVERETT. 


The  interior  was  restored  in  1783,  and  the  South  Church  congre- 
gation continued  to  worship  here  until  the  great  fire  of  1872. 

In  1874  the  South  Church  congregation  removed  to  and  occupied 
the  church  in  Copley  Square.  Thereafter,  in  1876,  the  Meeting- 
house was  sold  at  auction  for  $1,350,  with  a  provision  that  it  should 
be  torn  down  and  removed  within  sixty  days.  It  was  intended  to 
sell  the  land  separately  for  $400,000.  On  the  Centennial  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  July  4,  1876,  a  "Town  Meeting"  was 
called  in  the  Meeting-house  to  protest.  Speeches  were  made  by 
Wendell  Phillips  and  others.  A  Preservation  Committee  was  formed, 
headed  by  the  Governor. 

The  building  and  land  were  bought  by  the  women  of  the  State, 
and  the  Old  South  was  saved  and  since  1877  has  been  held  as  a 
historical  monument  and  a  place  for  patriotic  inspiration  and  in- 
struction. It  is  owned  by  the  Old  South  Association  in  Boston,  a 
corporation  specially  chartered  to  preserve  it. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  the  Old  South  loan  collec- 
tion are: 

Joseph  Warren's  christening  cap 

Warren's  day-book 

"Tea  Party"  tea 

The  Prophet's  Bowl  from  Tippecanoe 

Musket  from  Battle  of  Lexington 

Model  of  "Old  Ironsides" 

(Made  by  one  of  her  crew) 
Bone's  miniature  of  Washington 
Washington  letters 

Quilt  from  Martha  Washington's  dresses 
Model  of  Boston  in  1775 
Old-time  household  furnishings 
Manuscripts,  broadsides  and  portraits 


5-20-20,000-RWH 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO    THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      151 


FIRST   BAPTIST   CHURCH    IN    1853. 


Pond,  while  tlie  Lowell,  Eastern,  and  Fitchburg  occupy  sites 
beyond  the  Causeway  rescued  from  the  sea.  The  high  ground 
sloping  away  from  Green  and  Leverett  Streets  once  marked  the 
boundary  of  the  Cove  in  that  direction,  whilst  the  eastern  mar- 
gin, reaching  to  Distill-house 
Square,  included  all  of  Haymar- 
ket  Square.  On  the  northern 
shore  the  water  covered  Endicott 
Street,  reaching  to  Prince,  below 
Thacher,  and  penetrated  to  the 
rear  of  Baldwin  Place,  almost  to 
Salem  Street.  When  the  Second 
Baptist  Church  was  situated  in 
Baldwin  Place,  candidates  for 
baptism  were  immersed  in  the 
rear  of  the  church.  Before  En- 
dicott Street  was  laid  out,  about 
1836,  over  a  part  of  what  was 
known  as  the  "  Old  Way,"  Prince  Street  was  the  thoroughfare 
to  Charlestown.  The  Mill  Pond  thus  embraced  an  area  as  large 
as  the  Common. 

The  origin  of  the  Causeway  was  in  a  footpath  of  the  Indians 
over  a  more  elevated  part  of  the  marsh.  One  Mr.  Crabtree 
raised  and  widened  this  primitive  path  into  a  dam  to  retain  the 
waters  of,  the  pond. 

In  1G43  the  town  granted  Henry  Simons  and  others  a  tract, 
including  the  Mill  Pond  and  flats  west  of  the  Causeway,  on 
condition  of  their  building  one  or  more  corn-mills,  and  bridging 
the  Mill  Creek  at  Hanover  and  North  Streets.  Mills  were  ac- 
cordingly erected  at  the  west  end  of  the  creek  called  the  South 
Mills,  and  at  either  end  of  the  Causeway.  The  North  Mills 
stood  very  near  the  junction  of  Thacher  and  Endicott  Streets. 
These  were  a  grist-mill  and  a  saw-mill ;  a  chocolate-mill  stood 
at  a  little  distance  beyond  in  after  times. 

In  1801  the  grant  came  into  possession  of  the  Mill  Pond 
Corporation.  The  town  in  1807  released  the  original  obliga- 
tion to  maintain  the  mills  and  bridges  forever,  and  the  work  of 


152  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

filling  commenced,  Copp's  and  Beacon  Hills  furnishing  the  ma- 
terial for  this  purpose.  The  process  of  filling  occupied  twenty- 
five  years  before  it  was  fully  completed,  and  during  that  time 
the  Mill  Pond  was  the  receptacle  for  all  the  rubbish  from  the 
streets. 

The  Mill  Creek,  whose  outlet  into  the  Town  Dock  has  been 
traced,  was  doubtless  in  some  form  an  original  feature  of  the 
peninsula.  The  want  of  an  early  map  is  keenly  felt  in  any 
effort  to  establish  the  structure  of  the  original  surface.  \Viu- 
throp  says,  the  north  part  of  the  town  "  was  separated  from  the 
rest  by  a  narrow  stream  which  was  cut  through  a  neck  of  land 
by  industry."  Hanover  Street  was  this  neck,  and  all  north  of 
the  creek  was  an  island  known  in  times  past  as  the  "  Island  of 
Boston."  An  order  of  the  court  in  1631,  levying  £  30  on  the 
several  plantations  for  clearing  a  creek  and  opening  a  passage  to 
the  new  town,  supports  the  view  that  a  small  water-course 
existed  here  which  finally  became  a  means  of  communication 
between  the  Town  Dock  and  Mdl  Cove. 

The  creek,  at  first  furnishing  a  supply  of  water  for  the  tide 
mills,  became  in  process  of  time  a  canal,  with  walls  of  stone, 
wide  and  deep  enough  to  permit  the  passage  of  boats  and  even 
sloops  from  the  harbor  on  the  east  to  the  river  on  the  west.  As 
such,  it  was  an  extension  of  the  Middlesex  Canal,  incorporated 
in  1793,  and  of  which  Loammi  Baldwin  was  engineer.  The 
boats  entered  the  canal  at  Chelmsford  on  the  Merrimack,  and 
passed  on  to  the  wharves  on  the  east  side  of  Boston,  a  distance 
of  thirty  miles.  Blackstone  Street,  named  from  the  founder  of 
Boston,  is  built  upon  the  bed  of  the  canal. 

The  old  Mill  Bridge  thrown  over  Hanover  Street  was  rebuilt 
in  1686  ;  was  taken  up  in  1793  and  replaced  by  a  stone  arch 
over  which  the  pavement  was  continued.  At  North  Street 
"where  the  creek  crossed  was  a  drawbridge,  from  which  this 
street  was  sometimes  called  Drawbridge  Street.  The  passage 
of  vessels  being  discontinued,  the  creek,  which  had  an  average 
width  of  twenty  feet,  was  planked  over  here. 

The  North  End  was  but  three  streets  wide  in  older  times. 
These  were  North,  Hanover,  and  Salem  Streets.     The  former, 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      153 

besides  a  number  of  aliases  already  given,  was  known  along  its 
course  first  as  the  Fore,  or  Front  Street,  and  also  as  Anne,  Fish, 
and  Ship  Street.  Hanover  was  Middle  Street  from  the  Mill 
Creek  to  Bennet  Street,  beyond  which  it  was  North  Street. 
Salem  was  called  Back  Street  as  far  as  Prince,  and  at  one 
period  Green  Lane.  All  these  retain  their  original  names  in 
part,  except  North,  which  has  ever  enjoyed  a  reputation  not 
inferior  to  the  Seven  Dials  of  London  or  Five  Points  of  New 
York.  Crowded  at  one  time  through  its  entire  length  with 
brothels  and  low  dram-shops,  Anne  Street  took  a  new  name 
before  its  character  was  improved. 

"And  on  the  broken  pavement  here  and  there, 

Doth  many  a  stinking  sprat  and  herring  lie  ; 

A  brandy  and  tobacco  shop  is  near, 

And  hens,  and  dogs,  and  hogs  are  feeding  by, 

And  here  a  sailor's  jacket  hangs  to  dry. 

At  every  door  are  sunburnt  matrons  seen, 

Mending  old  nets  to  catch  the  scaly  fry  ; 

Now  singing  shrill,  and  scolding  eft  between  ; 
Scolds  answer  foul-mouthed  scolds  ;  bad  neighborhood,  I  ween." 

Laid  out  along  the  original  water-front,  wharves  extended 
from  Anne  Street  into  the  harbor.  Over  these  Commercial 
Street  is  now  built.  In  colonial  times  Anne  Street  bore  a 
better  reputation,  and  many  of  the  magnates  of  the  town  f<  mud 
their  residence  in  it.  It  was  widened  in  1859  and  greatly  im- 
proved, and  is  now  for  some  extent  devoted  to  business  pur- 
poses. 

At  the  lower  corner  of  North  and  Centre  Streets,  formerly 
called  Paddy's  Alley,  stands  an  old  two-story  brick  house. 
The  front  wall  has  apparently  been  rebuilt,  but  the  remainder 
of  the  structure  bears  the  genuine  stamp  of  antiquity.  This 
was  the  home  of  Sir  David  Ochterlony,  Bart.,  son  of  a  royal- 
ist, and  a  Bostonian  by  birth. 

It  was  not  those  alone,  who  served  under  their  country's  flag 
that  gained  celebrity  dining  the  Revolutionary  War.  Among 
those  who  entered  the  British  service  were  seven  young  Bosto- 
nians,  who  arrayed  themselves  against  their  native  land,  and 
finally  became  generals  or  admirals  in  that  service.  Their 
7* 


154  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

names  are  General  John  Coffin,  Thomas  Aston  Coffin,  Bart., 
Roger  Halo  Sheaffe,  Bart.,  Admiral  Sir  Isaac. Coffin,  General 
Hugh  McKay  Gordon,  B.  Hallowell,  and  Sir  David  Ochterlony. 

The  latter,  before  whose  home  we  are  pausing,  was  a  Latin- 
School  boy,  went  to  India  at  eighteen,  served  in  the  Indian 
wars,  and  was  at  the  great  conflict  of  Delhi.  For  his  services 
in  India  Ochterlony  was  made  a  major-general  in  1814  and 
baronet  in  the  year  following.  The  name  indicates  his  Scotch 
origin.  Unlike  his  famous  companions,  Sir  David  did  nut  tind 
himself  compelled  to  serve  against  his  countrymen. 

At  a  little  distance  from  this  corner  we  find  in  Centre  Street 
the  old  brick  stable  of  the  Eastern  Stage-House,  the  headquar- 
ters for  many  years  of  stages  bound  to  Portland  and  the  east- 
ward. It  was  kept  by  Colonel  Ephraim  Wildes,  and  ranked 
with  Earl's,  Doolittle's,  and  other  principal  rendezvous  of  tins 
kind. 

The  entrance  on  North  Street  was  by  a  large  arch,  through 
winch  you  passed  into  a  court-yard  of  large  area.  Descending 
from  the  coach  you  entered  the  main  building  by  a  flight  of 
steps,  where  good  cheer  and  hearty  welcome  always  awaited  the 
tired  traveller. 

Cross  Street,  in  1708,  extended  from  the  Mill  Pond  to  the 
sea.  At  the  corner  of  Anne  was  the  Cross  Tavern ;  its  name 
was,  like  Middle  and  Back,  descriptive.  It  was  an  important 
thoroughfare  in  former  times,  but  is  chiefly  interesting  to  the 
antiquarian  on  account  of  the  Old  Stone  House  that  stood  be- 
tween Hanover  and  Xorth,  about  midway  on  the  east  side.  The 
interest  which  attached  to  it  was  chiefly  on  account  of  its  age, 
though  conjecture  has  assigned  to  it  the  uses  of  a  jail  and  gar- 
rison house  under  the  old  colony.  It  was  built  of  rough  stone, 
with  the  large  brick  chimneys  on  the  outside,  and  stood  for 
about  two  hundred  years.  It  was  very  early  described  as  the 
"  Stone  House  of  Deacon  John  Phillips  in  the  cross  street." 
Tradition  has  ascribed  to  it  the  first  place  of  meeting  of  the 
town  overseers,  and  Pemberton  vouches  for  the  finding  of  loop- 
holes in  the  walls  while  it  was  under  repair.  None  of  these 
garrison  houses,  so  commonly  erected  in  the  scattered  villages 


FROM   BOSTON    STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      155 

for  defence  against  the  Indian  foe,  are  known  to  have  been  built 
in  Boston.  The  Old  Stone  House  was  removed  in  18G4,  and 
a  part  went  to  make  the  foundation  of  an  East  Boston  church. 
Savage's  Police  Record  gives  the  following  description  of  the 
Old  Stone  House,  which  he  says,  "  at  first  consisted  of  two 
wings  of  uniform  size  joining  each  other  and  forming  a  right 
angle.  Each  wing  was  forty  feet  long,  twenty  feet  wide,  and 
two  stories  high,  the  wings  fronting  the  south  and  west.  There 
was  one  door  in  the  end  of  each  wing  on  the  first  story,  and  a 
single  circular  window  in  the  second  story  over  the  doors  ;  there 
were  also  two  circular  windows  in  each  story  of  each  wing  in 
front,  but  neither  door  nor  window  in  either  wing  in  the  rear. 
The  foundation  walls  were  four  feet  thick  or  more ;  the  walls 
above  ground  were  two  feet  in  thickness,  and  built  entirely  of 
small  quarried  stones,  unlike  anything  to  be  seen  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, and  were  probably  brought  as  ballast  from  some  part 
of  Europe." 

Passing  the  Old  Hancock  School,  now  a  police-station,  and 
Board  Alley,  so  narrow  a  drunken  man  could  not  fall  to  the 
right  or  left,  we  arrive  at  Richmond  Street,  formerly  Bridge 
Lane,  and  according  to  some  authorities  the  old  Beer  Lane. 

The  "New  Brick"  or  "Cockerel"  Church  was  first  built  on 
this  spot  in  1721,  and  originally  came  out  of  the  New  North 
Church.  The  figure  of  the  cock  was  placed  upon  the  first  vane 
in  derision  of  Rev.  Mr.  Thacher,  whose  Christian  name  was 
Peter.  A  fierce  controversy  at  the  ordination  of  Mr.  Thacher 
as  pastor  of  the  New  North  Church  caused  the  division  which 
led  to  the  formation  of  the  society  of  the  New  Brick.  Dr. 
Eliot  says,  "that  Avhen  the  cock  was  placed  upon  the  spindle, 
a  merry  fellow  straddled  over  it  and  crowed  three  times  to  com- 
plete the  ceremony."  This  church  went  by  the  name  of  the 
"Revenge  Church,"  until  Dr.  Lathrop  took  charge  and  healed 
the  breach  with  the  parent  church. 

The  New  Brick,  a  name  given  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Old 
Brick  in  Comhill,  originally  fronted  upon  Hanover  Street,  but 
now  stands  sidewise  upon  that  street  and  facing  towards  Rich- 
mond.    It  is  one  of  the  very  few  Boston  churches  occupying 


156 


LAN  DM  AUKS    OF   BOSTON. 


their  original  sites.  In  1845  it  was  rebuilt  of  brown  stone,  and 
pulled  down  in  1871  during  the  widening  of  Hanover  Street 
The  historic  rooster  is  seen  on  Paul  Revere's  picture  of  1708. 
It  is  now,  after  having  breasted  the  storms  of  a  century  and  a 
half,  safely  deposited  within  the  new  church. 

Passing  through  Richmond  to  North  Street,  we  find  ourselves 
in  a  region  where  even  that  veteran  antiquary,  Jonathan  Old- 
buck,  would  have  felt  at  home  ; 

"  Where  winding  alleys  lead  the  doubtful  way  ; 
The  silent  court  and  opening  square  explore, 
And  long  perplexing  lanes  untrod  before." 

At  our  left  hand  the  ground  rises  towards  the  triangular  en- 
closure known  as  North  Square.  In  front  of  us,  on  the  north- 
east corner  of  North  and  Rich- 
mond, is  a  brick  building  to  Avhich 
tradition  has  long  attached  the  im- 
portance of  standing  on  the  site  of 
the  first  Colonial  Custom  House, 
under  Edward  Randolph  and  his 
successors.  Evidence  is  wanted  to 
support  this  statement,  —  an  im- 
portant one  in  the  investigation  of 
the  old  landmarks ;  but  the  tra- 
dition is  firmly  fixed  in  the  minds 
of  old  residents  of  the  North  End, 
and  is  generally  credited.  When 
the  old  budding  was  taken  down, 
about  twenty  years  ago,  many  a  pilgrimage  was  made  to  it  and 
the  wish  expressed  that  its  walls  could  speak. 

Randolph  was  Collector  in  1681,  but  the  "  Bostoneers,"  as 
Hutchinson  calls  them,  refused  to  recognize  his  office.  He  had 
been  appointed  "  Collector,  Surveyor,  and  Searcher "  in  New 
England.  His  authority  was  treated  with  contempt  by  Gover- 
nor Leverett,  who  sat  with  his  hat  on  while  the  King's  letter 
of  appointment  was  being  read  before  the  Councd.  His  public 
notification  of  the  establishment  of  his  office  posted  at  the  Town 
House  was  torn  down  by  an  officer  of  the  Court.     In  1682, 


NEW   BRICK   CHURCH. 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      157 

fearing  they  had  gone  too  far  in  resistance  to  the  King's  com- 
mands, the  Court  established  a  Custom  House,  but  the  loss  of 
the  Colonial  Charter  soon  followed. 

The  removal  of  the  papers  belonging  to  this  department  at 
the  evacuation  of  Boston  leaves  few  materials  wherewith  to 
establish  its  history,  and  these  are  connected  by  imperfect  links. 
The  old  building  was  long  known  as  the  "  Eed  Lyon  Inn," 
prominent  among  the  early  North  End  taverns.  The  tablet  in 
the  front  of  the  building  bears  the  initials  of  the  Wadsworths, 
former  proprietors.  The  old  "  Eed  Lyon  "  gave  its  name  to 
Upsball's  wharf  below,  which  became  Eed  Lyon  Wharf.  The 
ordinary  itself  was  one  of  the  oldest,  and  was  kept  by  Nicholas 
Upshall  probably  as  early  as  1654,  when  he  had  a  number  of 
soldiers  billeted  upon  him,  and  certainly  in  1666.  He  was  one 
of  the  first  to  feel  the  rigor  of  the  persecution  of  the  Quakers. 
He  was  banished,  imprisoned,  and  at  length  in  his  old  age  died 
a  martyr  to  the  faith  which,  amid  all  his  sufferings  and  hard- 
ships, he  seems  stoutly  to  have  upheld.  He  was  in  Boston  as 
early  as  1637,  and  then  owner  of  all  the  property  on  the  north- 
east side  of  Richmond  Street  from  Hanover  Street  to  the  water. 
His  first  banishment  was  for  an  attempt  to  bribe  the  keeper  of 
Boston  jail  to  give  food  to  two  starving  Quaker  women  in  his 
charge.  Upshall  was  one  of  the  first  members  of  the  Ancient 
and  Honorable  Artillery  Company  ;  his  remains  lie  in  Copp's 
Hill  Cemetery,  and  his  friends  the  Quakers  were  not  forgotten 
in  his  will. 

As  little  as  North  Square  is  known  to  the  present  generation, 
few  localities  can  surpass  it  in  the  interest  which  attaches  to  the 
historic  personages  who  have  dwelt  within  its  confined  area. 
But  our  readers  shall  judge  as  we  proceed.  . 

Standing  before  an  entrance  still  narrow,  the  relics  of  demol- 
ished walls  on  our  right  show  that  the  original  opening  was 
once  even  more  cramped  than  now,  and  scarce  permitted  the 
passage  of  a  vehicle.  The  point  made  by  North  Street  reached 
considerably  beyond  the  present  curbstone  some  distance  into 
the  street,  both  sides  of  which  were  cut  off  when  the  widening 
took  place.     This  headland  of  brick  and  mortar,  jutting  out 


158  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

into  old  Fish  Street  as  a  bulwark  to  protect  the  aristocratic 
residents  of  the  anjuare,  was  long  known  as  "  Mouatfbrt's  Cor- 
ner," from  the  family  owning  and  occupying  it.  It  was  the 
established  custom  of  those  early  times  to  fix  the  limits  of  the 
streets  from  corner  to  corner.  Tims  Fish  Street  is  described  in 
1708  as  "from  Mountjoy's  corner,  lower  end  of  Cross  Street, 
northerly  to  the  sign  of  the  Swan,  by  Scarlett's  Wharf." 

Opposite  to  us,  reached  by  a  little  alley  from  the  street,  was 
the  residence  of  Dr.  Snow,  the  historian  of  Boston.  Where 
we  stand,  a  narrow  passage  opens  at  our  left  hand,  through 
which,  beyond  the  crazy  tenements,  we  see  the  brick  walls  of 
the  Second  Church.  Through  this  passage  Governor  Hutchin- 
son is  said  to  have  passed  from  his  residence  to  the  old  church, 
a  door  having  been  constructed  in  the  rear  of  that  edifice  ex- 
pressly for  his  excellency's  convenience. 

Fronting  the  street  and  bounding  upon  this  alley  was  the 
residence  of  Francis  Shaw,  father  of  Samuel  Shaw,  the  Eevo- 
lutionary  soldier,  and  grandfather  of  Robert  G.  Shaw,  the 
wealthy  merchant  and  philanthropist.  In  this  house  were  the 
quarters  of  the  old  Major  of  Marines  Pitcairn,  and  Lieutenant 
Wragg  of  the  same  corps.  Troops  were  scattered  in  detach- 
ments throughout  the  North  End,  a  cordon  extending  from  the 
works  on  Copp's  Hill  to  the  South  Battery.  North  Square  was 
the  rendezvous  for  those  nearest  the  battery,  and  Pitcairn 
appears  to  have  been  intrusted  with  the  supervision  of  his 
quarter. 

Young  Shaw,  avIio  became  a  major  in  the  Continental  army, 
served  in  the  Revolution  from  the  beginning  to  its  close,  first 
as  a  lieutenant  in  Knox's  artillery,  rising  by  successive  grades 
to  be  a  captain  of  artillery  in  1780.  He  was  secretary  of  the 
officers  who  formed  the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  major  and 
aide-de-camp  to  General  Knox,  his  old  commander,  at  the 
peace,  and  was  appointed  by  him  to  a  post  in  his  bureau  when 
secretary-at-war.  In  1794  Major  Shaw  received  an  appointment 
as  consul  to  China  from  Washington,  and  sailed  for  that  country 
in  the  first  American  ship  that  ever  set  sail  for  those  shores. 
On  this  voyage  he  died,  and  his  epitaph  may  be  seen  on  the 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.       159 

family  monument  in  Copp's  Hill.  The  company  of  artillery 
attached  to  the  Boston  regiment  gave  to  the  Continental  ser- 
vice upwards  of  forty  young  men,  most  of  whom  became  dis- 
tinguished officers  of  that  arm. 

A  tradition  is  preserved  that  Wragg,  the  lieutenant  of  ma- 
rines, one  day  made  some  remark  at  the  family  hoard  dispar- 
aging the  "  rebels,"  whereupon  he  was  challenged  by  young 
Samuel  Shaw.  The  interposition  of  Pitcairn,  it  is  said,  pre- 
vented a  hostile  meeting. 

Proceeding  up  the  square,  which  still  preserves  its  cobble- 
stone pavement,  we  pass  a  tottering,  ruinous  wooden  budding 
said  to  have  been  once  in  the  famdy  of  Commodore  Downes, 
and  come  to  another  somewhat  fresher  specimen  of  the  same 
order.  This  was  the  habitation  of  Paul  Revere,  and  his  prob- 
able birthplace.  From  this  house  he  gave  the  striking  exhi- 
bition of  transparencies  on  the  evening  of  the  anniversary  of 
the  Massacre.  We  have  found  Revere  at  his  shop  in  Cornhill, 
and  briefly  alluded  to  his  engraving  on  copper,  his  first  efforts 
having  been  on  silver  plate.  He  also  engraved  the  plates, 
made  the  press,  and  printed  the  paper  money  for  the  Provincial 
Congress  at  Watertown.  The  house  has  not  altered  in  appear- 
ance in  fifty  years. 

On  the.  other  side  the  square  stood  the  old  Town  Pump,  in 
front  of  the  present  Naval  Rendezvous.  One  of  the  old  towji 
watch-houses  was  near  at  hand. 

Among  the  older  families  resident  here  were  the  Holyokes. 
The  father  of  the  celebrated  President  of  Harvard  was  a  re- 
spectable soap-boiler. 

Within  the  compass  of  a  few  rods  we  find  buildings  of 
undeniable  antiquity,  some  extremely  ruinous,  with  shattered 
panes  and  leaky  roofs,  whde  others,  improved  upon  to  suit 
more  modern  tenants,  have  the  jaunty  air  of  an  old  beau  in 
modern  habiliments.  One  patriarch  stands  at  the  corner  of 
Sun  Court  and  Moon  Street.  Its  upper  story  projects  after  the 
fashion  of  the  last  century;  the  timbers,  which  tradition  says 
were  cut  in  the  neighborhood,  are  of  prodigious  thickness, 
while  the  clapboards  are  fastened  with  wrought  nails.     If  the 


160  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

fathers  of  Boston  had  not  huilt  strongly,  these  relics  would  not 
now  be  left  to  us.  Their  chimneys  were  a  marvel,  and  contain 
the  materials  for  a  good-sized  modern  dwelling. 

This  narrow,  contracted  space  was  once  the  court  end  of  the 
town.  It  was  first  called  Clark's  Square,  from  an  old  resident, 
and  afterwards  Frizell's  Square.  Where  now  is  a  brick  block 
facing  the  square  was  built  the  Second  Church  in  Boston,  better 
known  as  the  Old  North.  This  was  the  church  of  the  Mathers, 
—  Samuel,  Increase,  Cotton,  and  Samuel  the  son  of  Cotton. 
Budt  in  1650,  it  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1676,  and  rebuilt  the 
next  year.  Both  houses  were  of  wood,  and  the  latter  edifice 
was  pulled  down  in  the  winter  of  1775—76  for  fuel,  as  were  also 
upwards  of  a  hundred  other  wooden  buildings.  General  Howe 
sanctioned  the  act. 

Dr.  Lathrop  says  :  "  No  records  of  the  Old  North  Church 
exist  for  more  than  a  year  after  the  memorable  1 9th  of  April. 
At  this  time  most  of  the  churches  in  town  were  broken  up,  and 
the  greatest  part  of  the  inhabitants  went  into  the  country. 
While  the  pastor  and  members  were  dispersed,  a  number  of 
evil-minded  men  of  the  King's  party  obtained  leave  of  General 
Howe  to  pull  it  down."  The  society  then  joined  trie  New 
Brick,  which  took  the  name  of  the  Second  Church. 

Cotton  Mather,  the  son  of  Increase  and  grandson  of  John 
Cptton,  is  regarded  as  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Boston  clergy. 
A  Bostonian  by  birth,  he  graduated  with  honor  at  Harvard, 
and  was  a  scholar  of  high  attainments.  Mather  was  a  prolific 
author,  and  his  numerous  Avorks  are  valuable  contributions  to 
the  early  history  of  New  England.  He  was  a  firm  believer  in 
witchcraft,  and  his  name  is  identified  with  the  persecution  of 
the  unfortunates  who  fell  under  the  ban  of  suspicion. 

Samuel  and  Increase  Mather  were  sons  of  Be  v.  Richard 
Mather,  who  was  settled  in  Dorchester  in  1636.  Both  were 
men  of  learning  and  high  consideration.  Increase  received  the 
first  degree  of  D.  D.  conferred  in  America.  He  went  to  Eng- 
land as  agent  of  the  colony,  and  returned  in  1692  with  the. 
new  charter.  Unlike  his  son,  he  did  not  pursue  the  witchcraft 
delusion,  which  desolated  so  many  homes  and  left  an  indelible 
blot  upon  our  history. 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO    THE   NORTH   BATTERY.       161 

Cotton  Mather  lived  on  Hanover  Street,  in  a  house  built  by 
Captain  TuxelL  It  was  not  far  from  the  Cockerel  Church  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  and  was  afterwards  occupied  by- 
Master  Harris  of  the  North  Grammar  School.  Samuel  Mather 
lived  on  the  east  side  of  Moon  Street,  about  midway  from  Sun 
Court  to  Fleet  Street,  on  the  corner  of  what  was  formerly  known 
as  Moon  Street  Court.  The  house  was  demolished  about  1832, 
and  a  tobacco  warehouse  erected  on  the  site,  which  became 
afterwards  a  Catholic  Church.  Increase  Mather  lived  on  North 
Street,  near  Clark,  in  a  house  afterwards  used  as  a  seamen's 
boarding-house. 

During  the  year  1676,  when  great  scarcity  prevailed,  Dr. 
Increase  Mather  procured  from  his  friends  in  Dublin  a  ship- 
load of  provisions.  Boston  paid  this  debt  of  long  standing 
with  interest,  when  she  sent  by  E.  B.  Forbes  a  ship  laden  with 
food  for  the  starving  in  Ireland. 

The  following  version  of  the  humorous  pen  photographs  "of 
the  Boston  clergy  of  1774  is  from  Mrs.  Crocker's  memoir. 
There  were  two  distinct  productions,  which  appear  somewhat 
intermixed  in  the  published  versions.  The  lines  given  here 
were  the  first  to  appear,  and  were  attributed  to  Dr.  Benjamin 
Church.     They  were  the  rage  of  the  town  :  — 

"  Old  Mather's  race  will  not  disgrace 

Their  noble  pedigree, 
And  Charles  Old  Brick*  both  well  and  sick 

Will  plead  for  liberty. 
There's  puffing  Pem,f  who  does  condemn 

All  Freedom's  noble  sons, 
And  Andrew  Sly,+  who  oft  draws  nigh 

To  Tommy  skin  and  bones.  § 
In  Brattle  Street  we  seldom  meet 

With  silver-tongued  Sam,|| 
Who  smoothly  glides  between  both  sides 

And  so  escapes  a  jam. 
There  's  Penuel  PufLU  is  hearty  enough, 

And  so  is  Simeon  Howard  ; 
And  Long  Lane  Teague  **  will  join  the  league 

And  never  prove  a  coward. 

*  Chauncy.  +  Pembertnn.  J  Eliot.  §  Hutchinson. 

||  Cooper.  1  Bowen.  **  Moorhead. 

E 


162  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

There's  little  Hopper,*  if  you  think  proper, 

In  Liberty's  cause  so  bold, 
And  John  Old  North, f  for  little  worth, 

Won't  sacrifice  for  gold. 
There  's  puny  John  *  from  North  Hampton, 

A  meek  mouth  moderate  man, 
And  colleague  stout,  §  who,  without  doubt, 

Is  linked  in  tory  clan." 

According  to  Mrs.  Crocker,  the  residence  of  Samuel  Mather 
in  North  Square  was  built  by  Captain  Kemble,  who  in  1673 
was  condemned  to  stand  in  the  stocks  two  hours  for  lewd  and 
unseemly  conduct  in  saluting  his  wife  at  the  step  of  the  door, 
on  the  Sabbath  day,  when  he  first  met  her  after  three  years' 
absence.  His  daughter,  Mrs.  Sarah  Knight,  kept  in  the  same 
house  a  school,  said  to  have  been  the  first  writing-school  in  that 
part  of  the  town,  from  1701  till  her  death  in  1708.  Dr.  Mather 
afterwards  occupied  the  same  premises.  All  three  of  the  Mathers 
are  interred  in  Copp's  Hill.  Mrs.  Crocker,  here  referred  to,  was 
a  granddaughter  of  Cotton  Mather.  It  was  she  whom  Frank- 
lin told  that  he  was  born  at  the  Blue  Ball  in  Union  Street. 

On  the  corner  of  Garden  Court  and  Prince  Streets,  formerly 
Bell  Alley,  was  the  residence  of  Sir  Charles  Henry  Frank- 
land,  who  was  Collector  of  Boston  in  1741  under  Governor 
Shirley.  He  was  said  to  have  been  removed  from  this  office 
for  inattention  to  its  duties.  Sir  Charles  led  a  romantic  and 
eventful  life.  On  one  of  his  official  visits  to  Marblehead  he 
met  with  the  lovely  Agnes  Surriage,  maid-of-all-work  at  the  inn. 
The  attachment  he  conceived  for  her  appears  to  have  been 
returned,  though  Sir  Charles  did  not  offer  her  marriage. 

"The  old,  old  story,  —  fair  and  young, 
And  fond,  —  and  not  too  wise,  — 
That  matrons  tell,  with  sharpened  tongue, 
To  maids  with  downcast  eyes." 

Sir  Charles  had  a  fine  estate  at  Hopkinton,  Mass.,  where  he 
delighted  to  pass  the  time  with  his  beautiful  companion.  Ee- 
turning  to  England,  Agnes  was  made  to  feel  the  scorn  of  her 
noble  lover's  family,  and  the  pair  went  to  Portugal.  They 
were  at  Lisbon  during  the  great  earthquake  of  November  1, 

*  Stillman.  +  Lathrop.  *  Hunt.  §  Bacon. 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      163 

1755,  in  which  Sir  Charles,  while  riding  out,  was  overwhelmed 
by  the  falling  ruins.  The  faithful  Agnes  succeeded  in  reaching 
and  rescuing  the  entombed  baronet,  and  carried  him  bruised 
and  bleeding  to  their  apartments.  For  this  act  of  heroism  the 
poor  Marblehead  girl  became  Lady  Frankiand.  She  survived 
her  lord,  and  resided,  until  the  breaking  out  of  the  Revolution, 
principally  on  the  estate  at  Hopkinton,  when  she  returned  to 
England.  The  following  lines  were  addressed  to  Sir  H.  Frank- 
land  on  receiving  the  present  of  a  box  of  lemons,  by  S.  M. 
(supposed  to  be  Samuel  Mather),  February  20,  1757  :  — 

"  You  know  from  Eastern  India  came 
The  skill  of  making  punch,  as  did  the  name  ; 
And  as  the  name  consists  of  letters  five, 
By  five  ingredients  it  is  kept  alive. 
To  purest  water  sugar  must  be  joined, 
With  these  the  grateful  acid  is  combined ; 
Some  any  sours  they  get  contented  use, 
But  men  of  taste  do  that  from  Tagus  choose. 
When  now  these  three  are  mixed  with  care, 
Then  added  be  of  spirit  a  small  share  ; 
And  that  you  may  the  drink  quite  perfect  see, 
Atop  the  musky  nut  must  grated  be." 

The  Frankiand  estate  at  Hopkinton  is  now  owned  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Xason,  who  has  written  a  most  interesting  account  of  its 
former  possessor.  Sir  Charles  attended  King's  Chapel  in 
Boston.  The  house  in  which  the  baronet  resided  was  built  by 
William  Clark,  for  whom  the  square  and  wharf  were  named. 
He  was  contemporary  with  the  elder  Hutchinson,  Faneuil, 
Belcher,  and  Hancock,  who  may  be  said  to  have  controlled 
in  their  day  the  commerce  of  Boston.  He  was  also  a  Council- 
lor of  the  Province,  and  a  man  of  marked  distinction  in  the 
affairs  of  the  town.  Clark,  it  is  said,  met  with  reverses  in 
the  French  wars,  losing  forty  sail  of  vessels,  which  so  impaired 
his  fortune  and  depressed  his  spirits  that  he  died  soon  after. 
He  was  one  of  the  original  attendants  at  Christ  Church,  and 
is  buried  in  Copp's  Hill  in  a  tomb  on  which  is  blazoned  the 
family  arms. 

The  Clark-Frankland  house  was  a  monument  of  human  pride. 
In  all  colonial  Boston  we  have  not  met  with  its  peer,  and  it  waa 


1C4 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


SIR   H.    FRANKLAXD  ; 


■without  doubt  built  to  outvie  that  of  Hutchinson,  Clark's 
wealthy  neighbor.  A  brick  dwelling  of  three  stories  was,  in 
itself,  a  unique  feature  for  the  period  in  which  it  was  con- 
structed ;  its  solid  brick  walls  were  traversed  by  belts  at  each 
stage.  The  tiers  of  windows  at  either  end  of  the  front  were 
narrower  than  the  others,  and  opened  upon  closets  that  woidd 
have  gladdened  the  eyes  of  modern  housekeepers  and  put  mod- 
ern architecture  to  the  blush.  The  entrance  door  was  low,  a 
common  faidt  in  our  old  builders ;  but  what  was  unusual,  the 
different  flats  or  stories  were  ten  feet  in  the  clear.  The  dormer 
windows  in  the  roof  varied  enough  in  form  to  break  the  mo- 
notony of  the  outline. 

Entering  by  the  front  on  Garden  Court  upon  a  hall  twelve 
feet  wide,  you  were  ushered  into  a  reception-room,  or  saloon,  at 
the  right  of  the  hall  of  entrance.  You  walked  on  a  floor  cu- 
riously inlaid  with  alternate  squares  of  pine  and  cedar,  much 
after  the  fashion  in  vogue  at  the  present  day.     Exactly  in  the 


FROM   BOSTON    STONE   TO   THE  NORTH   BATTERY.      165 

middle  of  the  floor  was  a  centre-piece  of  a  yard  square,  on  which 
the  mechanic  had  expended  his  utmost  skill.  The  pieces  of 
variegated  wood  were  beautifully  interwoven  around  a  shield 
bearing  the  family  device,  —  a  bar  with  three  white  swans. 
This  was  before  the  day  of  carpets,  when  floors  were  kept 
brightly  polished,  even  by  the  poorer  classes. 

The  walls  were  wainscoted  around  and  divided  by  wooden 
pilasters  into  compartments  with  panels,  on  each  of  which  was 
painted  armorial  bearings,  landscapes,  or  ruins.  Similar  panels 
in  the  wainscot  were  ornamented  with  various  devices.  A 
heavy  moulding  of  wood,  supported  by  the  gilded  capitals  of 
the  pilasters,  enclosed  the  ceiling.  One  of  the  panels  of  this 
room  bore  an  exact  resemblance  of  the  building,  from  a  copy 
of  which  our  engraving  is  taken. 

The  house  was  simUarly  finished  with  wooden  pilasters  in 
every  story.  Some  of  the  mantels  were  exquisitely  carved  in 
imitation  of  fruit  and  flowers.  There  has  been  preserved  a 
picture  taken  from  a  compartment  built  expressly  for  it  into  the 
wall,  representing  two  children  richly  attired  and  of  a  tender 
age.  Conjecture  has  been  busy  as  to  the  authorship  of  this 
really  fine  work  of  art.  It  is  evidently  antecedent  to  Copley, 
and  may  have  been  from  the  pencil  of  Smibert.  This  relic, 
together  with  others,  is  in  the  possession  of  Eowland  Ellis,  Esq., 
of  this  city. 

After  the  death  of  the  baronet,  he  gave  the  house  to  the 
widowed  Lady  Agnes,  who  resided  in  it  for  a  time.  It  ulti- 
mately came  into  possession  of  the  Ellis  family,  during  whose 
occupancy  the  entrance  was  somewhat  enlarged,  and  the  old 
wooden  fence  replaced  by  one  of  iron.  The  native  hue  of  the 
brick  had  been  improved  upon  with  yellow  paint.  The  con- 
version of  old  B^ll  Alley  into  an  extension  of  Prince  Street 
cut  oil' a  considerable  portion  of  the  building,  and  it  was  taken 
down.  Mr.  Cooper,  the  novelist,  visited  the  Frankland  house 
and  examined  it  minutely  before  he  wrote  "Lionel  Lincoln,"  in 
which  the  house  is  described  as  the  resilience  of  Mrs.  Lechmere 
and  located  in  Tremont  Street.  Mr.  Cooper  talks  about  the 
"salient  lions"  of  the  tesselated  floor,  into  which  a  fertile  im- 


166  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

agination  converted  the  peaceful  swans  of  the  Clarks.  It 
should  he  observed  that  the  coat  of  arms  in  Copp's  Hill  hears 
a  leafless  branch,  and  is  otherwise  different  from  the  escutcheon 
of  the  floor. 

Bedford  "Webster,  an  old  Boston  apothecary,  and  father  of 
John  White  Webster,  the  slayer  of  Dr.  Barkman,  also  lived  in 
the  house  we  have  been  describing. 

Next  to  Sir  Charles  Frankland,  on  Garden  Court,  resided 
Thomas  Hutchinson.  Under  his  administration,  as  lieutenant- 
governor  and  governor,  were  enacted  the  most  turbulent  scenes 
that  preceded  the  Bevolution.  By  birth  a  Bostonian,  his  love 
for  office  led  him  at  length  into  a  position  of  antagonism  with 
his  countrymen.  Bancroft  describes  liim  as  sordid  and  ava- 
ricious, smuggling  goods  and  using  every  means  to  put  money 
in  his  purse.  By  his  townsmen  he  was  nicknamed  "  Stingy 
Tommy."  He  held  at  one  time  the  offices  of  lieutenant-gover- 
nor, member  of  the  Councd,  commander  of  the  castle,  judge  of 
probate,  and  chief  justice  of  the  Supreme  Court.  Dr.  Franklin, 
in  1772,  obtained  possession  in  England  of  some  of  Hutchinson's 
confidential  letters,  which  he  forwarded  to  this  country.  They 
showed  that  Hutchinson  had  advocated  the  most  repressive 
measures  by  the  home  government. 

On  the  night  of  the  26th  of  August,  1765,  during  the  Stamp 
Act  troubles,  the  mob  attacked  and  sacked  the  governor's  ele- 
gant mansion,  destroying  his  furniture,  drinking  his  wine,  and 
scattering  the  streets  far  and  wide  Avith  the  debris.  The  gover- 
nor and  family  escaped  personal  violence,  but  an  irreparable 
injury  occurred  in  the  destruction  of  the  valuable  library  and 
manuscripts,  —  for  Hutchinson  was  a  man  of  literary  tastes  and 
scholastic  attainments.  '  Hutchinson  at  first  took  refuge  with 
his  sister  at  the  house  of  Dr.  Samuel  Mather  in  Moon  Street. 
The  mob,  however,  demanded  Ids  person,  and  he  was  compelled 
to  retreat  by  a  back  way  to  the  house  of  Thomas  Edes,  a  baker, 
guided  by  little  Hannah  Mather,  as  she  herself  relates.  Here 
he  remained  during  the  night,  returning  to  his  brother's  house 
to  breakfast.  The  next  day  he  was  compelled  to  open  court 
without  gown  or  wig,  both  having  been  destroyed  by  the  mob. 


FROM   BOSTON    STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      167 

The  Massacre  increased  his  unpopularity,  although  he  appeared 
on  the  scene  and  censured  the  unauthorized  and  fatal  action  of 
Captain  Preston.  The  destruction  of  the  tea  in  December, 
1773,  was  followed  in  a  few  months  by  the  governor's  depar- 
ture for  England. 

The  governor's  mansion-house  has  been  minutely  described 
by  Lydia  Maria  Child  in  the  "  Rebels."  The  house  was  of 
brick,  painted  a  neutral  tint,  and  was  ornamented  in  front  with 
four  Corinthian  pilasters.  One  of  the  capitals  of  these  is  now 
in  the  Historical  Library.  The  crown  of  Britain  surmounted 
each  window.  The  hall  of  entrance  displayed  a  spacious  arch, 
from  the  roof  of  which  a  dimly  lighted  lamp  gave  a  rich  twi- 
light view.  The  finely  carved  and  gilded  arch  in  massy  mag- 
nificence was  most  tastefully  ornamented  with  busts  and  statues. 
The  light  streamed  full  on  the  soul-beaming  countenance  of 
Cicero,  and  playfully  flickered  on  the  brow  of  Tulliola.  The 
panelling  of  the  parlor  was  of  the  dark,  richly  shaded  mahog- 
any of  St.  Domingo,  and  ornamented  with  the  same  elaborate 
skill  as  tdie  hall  just  quitted.  The  busts  of  George  III.  and 
his  young  queen  were  placed  in  front  of  a  splendid  mirror,  with 
bronze  lamps  on  each  side  covered  with  beautiful  transparencies, 
one  representing  the  destruction  of  the  Spanish  Armada,  the 
other  giving  a  fine  view  of  a  fleet  of  line-of-battle  ships  drawn 
up  before  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar.  On  either  side  of  the  room 
were  arches  surmounted  with  the  arms  of  England.  The  library 
was  hung  with  tapestry,  representing  the  coronation  of  George 
II.,  interspersed  with  the  royal  arms.  The  portraits  of  Anne 
and  the  Georges  hung  in  massive  frames  of  antique  splendor, 
and  the  crowded  shelves  were  surmounted  Avith  busts  of  the 
house  of  Stuart.  In  the  centre  of  the  apartment  stood  a  table 
of  polished  oak.  The  gardens  of  the  old  mansion  extended 
back  (o  Hanover  and  to  Fleet  Streets.  In  1834  the  building 
was  taken  down,  and  ceased  to  be  a  noted  attraction  of  the 
North  End.  Governor  Hutchinson  received  a  pension  and  was 
reimbursed  for  his  pecuniary  losses,  but  died  at  last,  it  is  said, 
of  a  broken  heart.  On  Pope  Day  Hutchinson's  effigy  was  often 
exhibited  with  two  faces. 


168  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTOX. 

The  Hutchinson  House  was  built  about  1710  by  Thomas 
Hutchinson,  father  of  the  governor,  who  was  born  in  it  the 
year  following.  The  estate  was  entailed  to  the  male  heirs,  but 
was  confiscated  and  sold  for  a  mere  song.  The  premises  after- 
wards became  the  property  of  William  Little,  at  which  time 
Mrs.  Child  visited  them. 

General  John  P.  Boyd  also  lived  in  the  Hutchinson  house. 
He  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  native  East  Indian  princes, 
with  a  force  raised  and  equipped  by  himself.  Returning  to  the 
United  States,  he  re-entered  the  army  as  colonel  of  the  4th 
infantry,  and  commanded  at  Fort  Independence  when  the  em- 
bargo of  1809  was  laid.  General  Boyd  distinguished  himself 
greatly  at  Tippecanoe,  "Williamsburg,  and  Fort  George  during  the 
campaigns  of  1811-13.    He  was  naval  officer  of  Boston  in  1830. 

Fleet  Street,  formerly  Scarlett's  "Wharf  Lane,  is  another  of 
those  names  by  which  the  Bostonians  loved  to  testify  their  love 
for  Old  London.  It  is  an  old  street,  bearing  this  name  in  1 708. 
From  the  lower  end  projected  Scarlett's  Wharf,  now  a  part  of 
Eastern  Avenue,  while  from  the  junction  of  Fleet  and  Xorth 
the  latter  anciently  took  the  name  of  Ship  Street,  to  its  terminus 
at  Battery  Wharf,  from  the  ship-yards  that  lined  its  course. 

The  "  King's  Head,"  another  inn  of  "  ye  Olden  tyme,"  was  at 
the  northwest  corner  of  Fleet  and  Xorth  Streets,  by  Scarlett's 
Wharf.  It  belongs  to  the  first  century  of  the  settlement ;  was 
burnt  in  1691  and  rebuilt.  James  Davenport  kept  it  in  1755, 
and  his  widow  in  1758.  The  site  was  long  a  bake-house  kept 
by  Joseph  Austin.  This  neighborhood  must  bear  off  the  palm 
for  inns,  being,  before  the  construction  of  Long  Wharf,  the 
chief  commercial  centre  of  the  town. 

In  Xorth  Square  were  barracks  for  British  troops  at  the  time 
of  the  battle  of  Lexington.  These  troops  were  mustered  in  the 
square  the  night  of  the  expedition,  and  sentinels,  posted  at  all 
the  entrances,  turned  the  citizens  from  the  spot.  The  prepara- 
tions for  this  affair  were  so  secretly  conducted  that  Gage  hoped 
his  intentions  would  escape  discovery  until  the  blow  was  struck. 
Xo  changes  were  made  in  the  disposition  of  the  troops,  except 
to  detach  the  grenadier  companies.     Dr.  Lathrop,  the  pastor  of 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH    BATTERY.      169 

the  Old  North,  occupied  a  wooden  building  elected  on  the  site 
of  his  old  church  after  its  demolition,  in  front  of  which  were 
some  handsome  elm-trees  destroyed  by  the  gale  of  1815. 

The  Bethel  Church,  which  stands  on  the  east  side  of  North 
Square,  was  long  the  scene  of  the  labors  of  Father  E.  T.  Tay- 
lor, the  eloquent  Methodist  preacher.  His  parishioners  were 
the  sailors  that  found  themselves  in  port  for  the  time  being, 
and  having  himself  followed  the  sea,  Father  Taylor  was  pecu- 
liarly fitted  to  preach  to  the  seafaring  class.  His  discourses 
were  filled  with  graphic  illustrations  from  the  language  of  the 
ocean,  and  went  straight  to  the  comprehension  of  his  hearers. 
Frequently  he  would  have  his  audience  wrought  up  to  the 
highest  pitch  of  excitement  by  some  graphic  picture.  On  one 
occasion  a  rough,  weather-beaten  mariner  became  so  interested 
in  the  preacher's  wonderful  portrayal  of  the  impending  destruc- 
tion of  a  gallant  vessel,  that,  forgetful  where  he  was,  he  ex- 
claimed, — "  Let  go  your  best  bower ;  nothing  else  will  save 
you."  Father  Taylor  quickly  turned  the  interruption  to  good 
purpose.  He  was  chaplain  to  the  frigate  sent  with  supplies  to 
the  famishing  Irish,  and  spoke  in  Cork  and  Glasgow.  A 
daughter  married  Hon.  Thomas  Russell,  Collector  of  Boston. 
Father  Taylor  lived  in  the  building  at  the  corner  of  Prince 
Street,  erected  on  the  Frankland  estate. 

In  1G76,  November  27,  happened  the  greatest  fire  that  had 
occurred  in  the  town  up  to  this  time.  It  broke  out  early  in 
the  morning  near  the  Red  Lyon,  and  consumed  forty-five  dwell- 
ings, the  Old  North  Meeting-House,  and  several  warehouses. 
The  wind  blew  with  great  violence,  carrying  flakes  of  fire  across 
the  river  and  endangering  Charlestown.  Hubbard,  in  his  His- 
tory of  New  England,  says  the  fire  occurred  "through  the 
carelessness  of  a  boy  called  up  to  work  very  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, who  falling  asleep,  as  was  said,  the  candle  set  the  house  on 
fire."  A  change  of  wind  from  southeast  to  south,  with  a  co- 
pious rain,  arrested  the  flames  at  last.  Increase  Mather's  dwell- 
ing was  burned  in  this  lire,  which  swept  over  the  district  now 
embraced  within  Richmond,  Hanover,  and  ('lark  Streets  to  the 
water  side. 

3 


170  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Clark's  Wharf,  subsequently  Hancock's,  was  the  most  noted 
in  the  early  history  of  the  town,  but  was  gradually  rivalled  by 
Long  Wharf.  It  now  coincides  with  the  north  side  of  Lewis's 
Wharf,  although  it  originally  formed  no  part  of  it.  Thomas 
Hancock  was  the  principal  proprietor  in  17G1,  owning  seven 
eighths,  as  appears  by  an  original  statement  of  the  income  for 
that  year.  This  wharf  formerly  opened  into  Fish,  now  North 
Street,  and  John  Hancock's  warehouses  were  upon  it. 

In  June,  1768,  John  Hancock's  sloop  Liberty  arrived  from 
Madeira  loaded  with  wine.  As  she  was  lying  at  Hancock's 
Wharf,  says  Drake's  History,  Thomas  Kirk  the  tidewaiter  came 
on  board,  and  was  followed  by  Captain  John  Marshall,  who 
commanded  Hancock's  ship,  the  London  Packet,  with  five  or 
six  others.  These  persons  confined  Kirk  below  until  they  had 
removed  the  wine  from  the  ship,  of  which  no  entry  was  made 
at  the  Custom  House.  The  next  morning  the  master  of  the 
sloop  entered,  it  is  said,  a  few  pipes  of  wine,  and  made  oath  it 
was  all  he  brought.  It  was  resolved  to  seize  the  vessel,  and 
Joseph  Harrison,  collector,  and  Benjamin  Hallo  well,  comptroller, 
repaired  to  the  wharf  and  affixed  "the  broad  arrow."  Appre- 
hensive of  the  mob  which  had  collected  on  the  wharf,  the 
sloop  was  moored  under  the  guns  of  the  Eomney  frigate. 

The  exasperated  people  noAV  turned  upon  the  officers,  and 
beat  and  maltreated  them  so  that  Mr.  Harrison  was  for  some 
time  confined  to  his  bed,  while  his  son,  Richard  Acklom,  who 
was  not  present  in  any  official  capacity,  was  very  roughly  used. 
Hallowell  and  Irving,  inspectors,  fared  no  better.  The  mob 
broke  the  windows  of  Mr.  John  Williams,  inspector-general, 
and  also  those  of  Mr.  Hallowell's  house,  and  finished  by  drag- 
ging the  collector's  boat  to  the  Common,  where  they  burnt  every 
fragment  of  it.  The  revenue  officers  retired  after  this  affair  to 
the  Castle,  where  they  remained  until  the  arrival  of  the  troops 
in  October. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  ominous  day  to  British  ride,  the  38th 
regiment  landed  at  Hancock's  Wharf,  and  marched  to  the  Com- 
mon and  encamped.  When  the  British  retreated  from  the 
town  they  scuttled  a  new  ship  of  300  tons  then  lying  at  this 


FKOM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      171 

wharf,  and  left  behind  about  1,000  bushels  of  salt  and  3,000 
blankets. 

Opposite  the  head  of  Hancock's  Wharf,  which  we  remind 
our  readers  once  extended  to  the  present  North  Street,  was 
the  North  End  Coffee  House  kept  in  1783  by  David  Porter,  who 
advertised  that  he  had  taken  the  Coffee  House,  where  "gentle- 
men shall  be  entertained  in  a  genteel  manner."  This  was  the 
father  of  David  Porter  of  renown,  and  grandfather  of  the  pres- 
ent Admiral  David  D.  Porter.  The  elder  Porter  was  himself 
an  old  ranger  of  the  main,  having  commanded  the  private-armed 
vessels  Aurora  and  Delight  in  the  Eevolutionary  War.  At  the 
peace  he  took  the  Coffee  House,  located  at  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant wharves  of  the  town,  but  soon  removed  to  Baltimore, 
where  he  engaged  in  trade.  The  Coffee  House  was  occupied  in 
1789  by  Eobert  Wyre,  distdler,  and  was  for  some  time  known 
as  the  Philadelphia  Coffee  House.  The  same  house  was  after- 
wards the  dwelling  of  Jonathan  Amory,  and  later,  of  Colonel 
John  May.  It  had,  however,  a  prior  importance,  having  been 
built  and  inhabited  by  Edward  Hutchinson,  brother  of  Thomas. 

David  Porter,  the  hero  of  the  Essex,  was  born,  it  is  said,  in 
Cliarter  Street.  He  entered  the  navy  as  midshipman  in  1798, 
and  fought  his  way  to  a  captaincy  in  1812.  He  was  in  the 
Constellation  when  she  captured  LTnsurgente  ;  first  officer  in 
that  busy  little  craft  the  Enterprise  before  Tripoli ;  of  the  frigate 
New  York,  under  Eodgers  ;  and  of  the  Philadelphia,  under  Pain- 
bridge,  when  he  became  a  prisoner  for  eighteen  months.  He 
sailed  from  New  York  in  the  Essex,  thirty-two  guns,  in  July, 
1812,  and  soon  captured  the  British  sloop  Alert  of  twenty  guns. 
Going  around  to  the  Pacific  lie  annihilated  the  British  whale- 
fishery,  and  captured  the  Nocton  packet  with  £1,100  sterling 
on  board,  without  finding  a  cruiser  to  molest  him.  Blockaded 
by  the  British  ships  Phoebe  and  Cherub  in  Valparaiso,  he  at- 
tempted to  get  to  sea,  but  losing  some  of  his  spars  by  a  sudden 
squall,  was  forced  to  anchor.  Here  he  maintained  a  bloody  and 
determined  resistance  until  his  ship  was  on  fire  and  incapable 
of  lighting,  when  his  Hag  was  hauled  down.  Porter  afterwards 
commanded  the  Mexican  navy,  and  filled  the  post  of  minister 
from  his  native  country  to  Turkey. 


172  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Returning  through  Fleet  Street  to  Hanover,  Ave  find  that  the 
use  of  swinging  signs,  and  carved  figures  for  the  shop  fronts  01 
houses  of  entertainment  is  hy  no  means  as  unusual  as  has  been 
supposed.  To  he  convinced  of  this,  it  is  only  necessary  to  walk 
over  the  district  we  are  describing.  Jack  is  represented  in 
every  conceivable  attitude.  We  are  in  no  danger  of  losing  our 
reckoning,  for  quadrant  or  sextant  are  pendent  from  every  cor- 
ner, while  a  jolly  tar  with  spyglass  to  his  eye  forever  scans  the 
neighboring  shipping.  Female  heads,  with  features  as  weird  as 
those  of  the  famed  lady  of  the  lied  Rover,  gaze  from  the  en- 
trance of  some  ship  artisan,  while  figures  of  Venus,  Hebe,  or 
Mary  Ann  start  forth  as  if  in  the  act  of  leaping  from  the 
painter's  window  to  the  pavement  below. 

The  First  Universalist  Church  was  at  the  corner  of  North 
Rennet  and  Hanover  Streets.  It  was  a  wooden  building  erected 
by  seceders  from  the  Old  North,  with  Rev.  Samuel  Mather  for 
their  pastor.  After  the  decease  of  Mather,  in  1 785,  the  house 
passed  by  purchase  into  the  hands  of  the  Universalists.  The 
first  pastor  of  the  society  was  the  Rev.  John  Murray,  the  father 
of  American  Universalism,  who,  it  is  said,  was  greeted  with  a 
shower  of  stones  when  he  first  attempted  to  preach  in  Roston. 
While  the  building  stood,  it  was  the  last  of  the  old  wooden 
churches,  but  after  ninety-six  years  of  service  it  was  succeeded  by 
the  brick  edifice  budt  in  1838,  now  a  Raptist  Seamen's  Rethel. 

The  brick  chapel,  on  the  north  side  of  North  Rennet  Street, 
and  only  a  few  paces  from  Hanover,  was  the  second  house  of 
worship  of  the  Methodists  in  Roston.  They  first  occupied  a 
small  wooden  structure  in  Methodist  Alley,  now  Hanover  Ave- 
nue. The  society,  which  has  now  such  numerical  strength  in 
the  land,  had,  it  is  asserted,  its  beginning  among  the  Rritish 
soldiers  who  arrived  in  1768,  a  few  of  whom  were  Methodists. 
In  1772  Mr.  Roardman,  colleague  of  Pillmore,  the  first  Metho- 
dist preacher  sent  to  America  by  Wesley,  formed  a  small  society, 
which  soon  dissolved.  In  October,  1784,  Rev.  William  Rlack, 
of  Halifax,  preached  in  the  Sandemanian  Chapel,  on  Hanover, 
near  Cross  Street,  and  in  the  Second  Raptist  Church.  The 
building  in  Methodist  Alley  was  dedicated  in  May,  1796,  and 


FROM    BOSTON   STONE   TO    THE    NORTH    BATTERY.       173 


continued  to  be  used  by  the  society  until  September,   1828, 
when  the  North  Bennet  Street  Chapel  was  dedicated. 

A  distressing  accident  occurred  at  the  laying  of  the  corner- 
stone of  this  chapel.  The  floor  gave  way  under  the  pressure  of 
the  great  number  of  people  attending  the  ceremony,  and  precipi- 
tated the  living  mass  into  the  cellar  beneath.  No  lives  were 
lost,  but  many  received  serious  injuries. 

The  famous  eccentric  preacher,  Lorenzo  Dow,  occasionally 
preached  in  the  little  church  in  Methodist  Alley.  He  was  ex- 
tremely theatrical  in  his  manner,  but  an  effective  speaker.  In 
this  small  house  the  preacher  might  almost  shake  hands  with 
his  hearers  in  the  front  seats  of  the  gallery. 

The  New  North  Church  is  one  of  the  monuments  still  pre- 
served in  the  North  End.  Seventeen  substantial  mechanics 
formed  the  nucleus  of  this,  the 
Second  Congregational  Society 
in  this  part  of  the  town.  In 
1714  they  erected  a  small 
wooden  building  at  the  corner 
of  Clark  and  Hanover  (North) 
Streets,  "  unassisted  by  the  more 
wealthy  part  of  the  community 
except  by  their  prayers  and  good 
wishes."  This  house  required 
enlargement,  in  1730,  to  accom- 
modate its  increasing  congrega- 
tion; and  in  1802  was  superseded 
by  the  present  edifice.  In  1805 
a  bell  from  the  foundry  of  Paul  Revere  was  placed  in  the  tower. 
John  Webb  was  the  first  minister,  the  fr\vo  Mathers  assisting  at 
the  ordination.  Within  a  few  years  the  church  has  been 
moved  back  to  conform  to  the  increased  width  of  the  street, 
and  is  now  used  by  the  Catholics. 

The  installation  of  Rev.  Peter  Thacher,  in  1719,  as  Mr. 
"Webb's  colleague,  was  attempted  to  be  prevented  by  the  minor- 
ity opposed  to  him,  who  assembled  at  the  house  of  Thomas 
Lee,  in  Bennet  Street,  next  the  Universalist  meeting-house, 


NEW   NORTH    CIIURCn. 


174  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

resolved  to  resist  the  progress  of  the  minister  ami  the  council 
which  met  at  Mr.  Webb's,  on  the  corner  of  North  Bennet  and 
Salem  Streets.  A  crowd  gathered  and  matters  looked  serious, 
when  Mr.  Webb  led  his  party  out  by  a  back  way  to  the  church, 
thus  out-manoeuvring  the  rival  faction.  The  house  of  Dr. 
Eliot,  of  the  New  North,  is  stdl  standing.  It  is  next  but  one 
to  the  north  corner  of  Hanover  and  Tileston  Streets,  is  of  wood, 
and  appears  in  good  preservation. 

On  the  southwest  corner  of  North  and  Clark  Streets  stood, 
within  a  few  years,  an  ancient  brick  building,  reputed  to  be 
over  two  hundred  years  old.  It  was  certainly  built  as  early  as 
1G50,  and  probably  dated  back  a  few  years  anterior.  It  had 
been  one  of  the  oldest  inns  or  ordinaries  in  Boston,  and  was 
called  the  "  Ship  Tavern."  It  stood  at  the  head  of  or  opposite 
Clark's  shipyard,  and  was  kept  by  John  Vyal  in  1663.  Vyal's 
was  a  favorite  resort  of  the  King's  Commissioners,  who  were 
sent  over  by  Charles  II.,  after  the  restoration,  with  instruc- 
tions to  visit  the  New  England  Colonies,  and  adjust  all 
matters  of  dispute.  Colonel  Bichard  Nichols,  a  soldier  of 
Turenne,  Colonel  George  Cartwright,  Sir  Bobert  Carr,  and 
Samuel  Maverick,  the  founder  of  East  Boston,  composed  the 
commission. 

Sir  Bobert  Carr  having  assaulted  a  constable  at  the  Ship 
Tavern,  Governor  Leverett  sent  a  letter  requesting  Sir  Bobert 
to  attend  at  his  house  to  answer  the  complaint  lodged  against 
him.     Carr  replied  as  follows  :  — 

Sr  Yo"  I  receyved  last  night  in  answer  to  wh  as  I  am  Sr  Robert 
Carr  I  would  have  complyed  wth  yor  desyres,  but  as  I  am  wth  y"  Kyng's 
Commission,  I  shal  not  grant  yor  requests,  both  in  respect  of  his 
Majesty es  honor  and  my  oune  duty,  and  rest  yours 

Boston  Jan.  23.  1666.  Robert  Carr 

For  Major  General  John  Leverett,  these  * 

A  second  summons  to  Carr  was  received  with  a  reply  more 
insulting  in  its  tenor  than  the  first,  and  the  bellicose  commis- 
sioner seems  to  have  avoided  the  arrest. 

As  far  back  as  Vyal's  proprietorship  the  tavern  was  known 

*  Hist,  and  Antiq.  of  Boston. 


FROM   BOSTON    STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      175 

as  the  "  Noah's  Ark,"  doubtless  from  the  fancied  resemblance 
of  the  ship  on  its  sign  to  the  Ark  of  Scripture.  By  this  name 
it  was  subsequently  known  until  its  disappearance  in  18G6,  both 
in  the  proprietor's  deeds  and  by  common  repute. 

The  old  Ship  Tavern,  or  Noah's  Ark,  was  probably  built  by 
Thomas  Hawkins,  whose  shipyard  was  below.  It  became  later 
the  property  of  Thomas  Hutchinson,  father  of  the  governor,  and 
was  given  by  him  to  his  daughter  Hannah,  the  wife  of  Rev. 
Samuel  Mather.  The  original  building  was  of  two  stories,  to 
which  a  third  was  added  by  a  modern  proprietor.  The  walls 
were  of  brick,  laid  in  the  English  Bond,  with  overhanging  eaves, 
and  roof  with  projecting  Lutheran  windows.  A  seam  in  the 
old  front  wall  was  attributed  to  the  earthquake  of  1GG3.  It 
was  altogether  a  remarkable  specimen  of  the  antique  style  of 
buildings,  of  which  not  a  single  pure  specimen  is  now  existing 
in  Boston. 

Besides  the  tavern,  Vyal  carried  on  a  brew-house,  one  of  the 
first  of  which  we  find  any  mention,  at  the  corner  of  Clark  and 
North  Streets,  where  Mathews'  Block  now  is.  This  brew- 
house  obtained  a  wide  reputation  both  in  the  Colonies  and 
abroad,  rivalling  Burton's  or  Alsopp's  of  our  day.  The  old 
tavern  of  Vyal  was  used  as  a  barrack  by  the  British  troops. 
While  there,  a  contagion  broke  out  among  them  which  carried 
olF  a  large  number. 

What  is  now  Harris  Street,  next  north  of  Clark,  was  once 
known  as  White-Bread  Alley,  and  is  so  laid  down  on  the  maps. 
It  was  so  named  from  the  circumstance  that  the  first  penny  r<  tils 
ever  offered  for  sale  in  Boston  were  baked  there  by  Madam 
Tudor.  She  was  an  Englishwoman,  and  began  by  sending  her 
little  son,  afterwards  Deacon  John  Tudor,  around  among  the 
neighbors  with  her  bread.  She  died  at  ninety,  and  the  busi- 
ness was  continued  by  her  son. 

We  next  come  to  Salutation  Street,  raised  in  modern  times 
from  the  meaner  appellation  of  "  alley  "  without  any  particular 
pretension  to  the  dignity.  Its  singular  name  comes  from  the 
old  Salutation  Tavern,  in  former  times  at  the  corner  of  the 
alley  and  North  Street.     A  grotesque  sign,  descriptive  of  the 


17G  LANDMARKS  OF  BOSTON. 

meeting  of  two  gentlemen  of  the  era  of  small  clothes,  cocked 
hats,  etc.,  in  the  act  of  greeting  each  other,  gave  the  hostelry 
its  name.  Samuel  Green  kept  there  in  1731,  and  William 
Campbell  in   1773. 

The  Salutation,  also  called  the  Two  Palaverers,  while  kept 
by  Campbell,  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  famous  North  End 
Caucus.  In  the  "  Hundred  Boston  Orators  "  it  is  stated  that  this 
Eevolutionary  association  originated  with  Warren,  and  that  the 
resolutions  for  the  destruction  of  the  tea  were  there  drawn  up, 
It  consisted  at  first  of  sixty-one  members.  Dr.  John  Young 
was  the  first  president.  When  the  best  means  of  ridding  Bos- 
ton of  the  regulars  was  under  discussion,  Hancock,  who  was  a 
member,  exclaimed,  "  Burn  Boston  and  make  John  Hancock  a 
beggar,  if  the  public  good  requires  it." 

The  word  "  caucus  "  is  said  to  occur  first  in  Gordon's  "  History 
of  the  American  Bevolution,"  Vol.  I.  p.  365,  published  in  1 788. 
He  says  that  more  than  fifty  years  previous  to  his  time  of  writ- 
ing,  "  Samuel  Adams  and  twenty  others  in  Boston,  one  or  two 
from  the  North  End  of  the  town,  where  all  the  ship  business  is 
carried  on,  used  to  meet,  make  a  caucus,  etc."  From  the  fact 
that  the  meetings  were  held  in  a  part  of  Boston  where  all  the 
ship  business  was  carried  on,  Mr.  Pickering,  in  his  Vocabulary 
(Boston,  1816),  infers  that  "caucus"  may  be  a  corruption  of 
"  calkers,"  the  word  "  meeting  "  being  understood.  This  deriva- 
tion has  been  adopted  by  others. 

A  few  steps  bring  us  to  Battery  Street,  likewise  an  alley  in 
1708,  receiving  its  name  from  the  North  Battery  below,  to 
which  it  conducted.  It  formerly  run  from  Charter  Street  to 
the  Battery,  but  now  to  Hanover  Street  only. 
*  The  first  mention  of  what  was  afterwards  called  the  North. 
Battery  occurs  in  the  records  in  January,  1644,  when  a  work 
at  Merry's  Point  was  agreed  upon.  There  was,  however,  no 
definite  action  taken  until  1646,  when  there  appear  propositions 
about  a  fortification  at  the  North  End,  "  att  Walter  Merry's 
point."  Johnson's  "  Wonder- Working  Providence"  speaks  of  the 
forts  on  Copp's  and  Fort  Hill  as  "  the  one  well  fortified  on  the 
superficies  thereof  with  store  of  great  artillery  well  mounted. 


FROM   BOSTON   STONE   TO   THE   NORTH   BATTERY.      177 

The  other  hath  a  very  strong  battery  built  of  whole  timber  and 
filled  with  earth,"  the  latter  being  the  North  Battery.  In  1706 
a  project  was  brought  before  the  town  to  extend  the  North 
Battery  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  with  a  breadth  of  forty 
feet,  and  £  1,000  were  voted  for  the  improvement  and  security 
of  the  work.     John  Steele  had  command  in  1750. 

The  town  sold  the  North  Battery  to  Jeffrey  and  Russell.  It 
became  Jeffrey's  Wharf  between  1789  and  1796,  and  is  now 
Battery  Wharf,  in  memory  of  its  ancient  purposes. 

The  52d,  43d,  and  47th  British  regiments,  with  companies 
of  grenadiers  and  light  infantry,  embarked  from  the  North 
Battery  on  the  day  of  Bunker  Hill,  as  did  also  the  1st  Battalion 
of  Marines,  led  by  Major  Pitcairn,  of  Lexington  fame,  who 
fell  a  victim  to  the  murderous  fire  from  the  fatal  redoubt  while 
gallantly  urging  on  his  men  to  the  attack. 

When  Lord  Howe  evacuated  Boston  the  North  Battery  was 
armed  with  seven  twelve-pounders,  two  nine-pounders,  and  four 
six-pounders,  —  all  rendered  unserviceable.  From  its  position 
the  work  commanded  the  entrance  to  Charles  River  as  well  as 
the  Town  Cove ;  and  was  deemed  of  the  highest  military  im- 
portance in  those  days  of  short-range  artillery. 

While  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  prominent  wharves,  we 
may  appropriately  refer  to  the  long  trucks  once  used  in  Boston 
for  conveying  heavy  merchandise.  As  long  ago  as  1720  trucks 
were  used,  when  we  find,  by  an  order  regulating  them,  none 
were  to  be  "  more  than  eighteen  feet  long ;  to  employ  but  two 
horses  in  one  team  ;  to  carry  no  more  than  one  ton  at  a  load  ; 
and  wheel  tires  to  be  four  inches  wide  ;  the  driver  to  go  at  the 
head  of  the  thill  horse,  which  he  must  govern  by  a  halter  to  be 
kept  in  the  hand."  These  ponderous  vehicles  finally  disap- 
peared, and  with  them  that  distinctive  body  of  men,  the  "  Bos- 
ton Truckmen,"  who  once  formed  a  leading  and  attractive  feature 
of  our  public  processions,  with  their  white  frocks  and  black 
hats,  mounted  on  their  magnificent  truck-horses.  Hardy  and 
athletic,  it  would  have  been  hard  to  find  their  equals  on  either 
side  of  the  water.  The  long  jiggers  now  used  are  scarcely  less 
objectionable  than  the  old  trucks. 


178  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

A    VISIT    TO    THE    OLD    SHIPYARDS. 

Early  Ship-Building.  —  Boston  Shipyards.  —  Massachusetts  Frigate.  —  New 
England  Naval  Flag.  —  First  Seventy-Four.  —  Hartt's  Naval  Yard.  —  The 
Constitution.  —  Her  Launch,  History,  and  Exploits.  —  Anecdotes  of  Hull, 
Bainbridge,  and  Decatur. — Old  Ironsides  Rebuilt. — Josiah  Barker. — 
Nicholson.  —  Preble.  —  Stewart.  —  Other  Distinguished  Officers.  —  Escape 
from  the  British  Fleet.  —  Anecdote  of  Dr.  Bentley.  —  Action  with  the 
Guerriere.  —  The  Java.  —  Cyane  and  Levant.  —  Relics  of  Old  Ironsides.  — 
Affair  of  the  Figure-Head.  —  Captain  Dewey.  —  The  Frigate  Boston.  — 
Capture  of  Le  Berceau.  —  The  Argus. 

WE  have  now  brought  the  reader  among  the  shipyards, 
which  were  in  bygone  days  a  principal  feature  of  the 
North  End.     The  first  ship  built  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston  was 
the  "  Blessing  of  the  Bay,"  at  what  is  now  Medford.     It  was  a 
bark  of  thirty  tons  ordered  by  Governor  Winthrop,  and  was 
launched  on  the  4th  of  July,  1631. 
In  1632  -  33  a  "  shippe  of  a  hundred 
tunnes  "  was  launched  in  the  same 
town,    so   that    the   Medford   ship- 
wrights seem  to  bear  off  the  palm  in 
establishing    this    industry   in    our 
neighborhood.    The  first  mention  of 
ship-building   in    Boston  occurs    in 
1640,    and   a   hundred    years    later 
ancient  ship.  there  were  on  the  stocks  at  the  same 

time  forty  topsail  vessels  with  seven  thousand  tons'  capacity. 

As  early  as  1645  Captain  Thomas  Hawkins  built  the  Seafort, 
a  fine  ship  of  four  hundred  tons,  at  his  yard  at  the  foot  of 
Clark  Street ;  she  was  lost  on  the  coast  of  Spain.  John  Rich- 
ards succeeded  to  the  yard  on  the  north  of  the  Ship  Tavern  in 
1688.     Clark's  vard  was  the  same  in  1722.     In  1708  Joshua 


A   VISIT   TO   THE   OLD   SHIPYARDS. 


179 


Gee  had  a  shipyard  at  the  foot  of  Copp's  Hill,  and  fourteen 
years  later  there  were  no  less  than  six  yards  lying  around  the 
base  of  the  hill,  two  below  Fort  Hill,  and  another  beyond  the 
causeway  at  West  Boston.  In  1745  was  built  the  Massachu- 
setts Frigate,  which,  under  command  of  Captain  Edward  Tyng, 
accompanied  Sir  William  Pepperell's  expedition  against  Louis- 
burg,  where  she  rendered  efficient  service,  capturing  the  Vigi- 
lant, French  man-of-war  of  sixty-four  guns,  —  more  than  double 
her  own  force.  According  to  Captain  G.  H.  Preble's  "  Notes  on 
Early  Ship-Building,"  "  when  it  was  designed  to  reduce  Louis- 
burg,  Governor  Shirley  directed  Captain  Tyng  to  procure  the 
largest  ship  in  his  power.  He  accordingly  purchased  one  on  the 
stocks  nearly  ready  for  launching,  and  made  such  improvements 
upon  her  that  she  was  able  to  carry  twenty-four  to  twenty-six 
guns."  On  her  return  to  Boston  this  frigate  brought  Governor 
Shirley  and  lady,  who  had  been  to  the  theatre  of  war.  They 
met  with  a  splendid  ovation  at  the  hands  of  the  Bostonians,  as 
we  have  related  elsewhere. 

We  may  appropriately  mention  here  the  colors  which  were 
used  on  the  sea  by  the  colony  before  1 700,  a 
representation  of  which  is  given  herewith. 
The  field  and  cross  were  red,  the  tree  green, 
and  the  union  white.  The  tree  appears  as  a 
distinctive  emblem  on  the  coins  as  well  as  the 
flag. 

Pemberton,  in  his  description  of   Boston, 
written  in  1794,  says  :  — 

"  Ship-building  was  formerly  carried  on  at  upwards  of  twenty- 
seven  dock-yards  in  the  town  at  one  and  the  same  time,  and  em- 
ployed a  large  number  of  mechanicks.  In  one  of  the  yards,  twelve 
ships  have  been  launched  in  twelve  months.  In  all  the  dock-yards, 
I  am  credibly  informed  there  have  been  upwards  of  sixty  vessels 
on  the  stocks  at  one  time.  Many  of  the  ships  built  here  were  sent 
directly  to  London  with  naval  stores,  whale  oil,  etc,  and  to  the  West 
Indies  with  fish  and  lumber.  The  whale  and  cud  fishery  employed 
many  of  our  smaller  craft.  They  were  nurseries,  and  produced  many 
hardy  seamen.  About  the  year  1750,  when  paper  money  was  sup- 
pressed in  this  then  colony,  the  sale  of  ships  lying  in  England,  on 


NEW    ENGLAND    FLAG. 


180 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


account  of  the  owners  here,  occasioned  a  loss  to  them  from  twenty 
to  forty  per  cent.  Few  ships  were  built  here,  and  ship-building  grad- 
ually declined.  Vessels  are  now  built  in  the  country  towns  not  far 
from  where  the  timber  grows. 

"The  harbor  of  Boston  is  at  this  date"  (November,  1794),  con- 
tinues" Pemberton,  "crowded  with  vessels.  Eighty-four  sail  have 
been  counted  lying  at  two  of  the  wharves  only.  It  is  reckoned  that 
not  less  than  four  hundred  and  fifty  sail  of  ships,  brigs,  schooners, 
and  sloops,  and  small  crafts  are  now  in  port." 

The  first  war-ship  built  in  Boston  was  a  seventy-four,  laid 
down  at  the  yard  of  Benjamin  Goodwin,  —  afterwards  Tilley's 
Wharf, — a  short  distance  from  Charlestown  Bridge.  She  was 
ordered  by  the  Continental  Congress,  and  Thomas  dishing, 
afterwards  lieutenant-governor,  then  agent  of  the  government, 
took  possession  of  the  dwelling-house,  stores,  wharf,  and  yard 
of  Goodwin  for  this  purpose.  In  1784,  the  exigency  having 
passed  by,  the  ship  was  sold  on  the  stocks  by  Thomas  Russell 
as  agent  of  the  United  States.  This  was  probably  the  first 
seventy-four  begun  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  stated  in  Emmons's  excellent  "  History  of  the  Navy  "  that 

the  America,  built  at  Portsmouth 
in  1782,  the  command  of  which 
was  destined  for  the  renowned 
Paul  Jones,  was  the  first  vessel 
of  this  class  Jbuilt  for  our  navy. 
She  appears  to  have  been  the  first 
afloat.      The  America,  awarded 
by   a  unanimous  vote   of  Con- 
gress   to    the  conqueror   of  the 
Serapis,  was  given  to  the  French, 
to  supply  the  loss  of  the  Mag- 
nifique,  lost  in  Boston  harbor  in 
the  above  year.     Her  fate  is  a 
matter  of  uncertainty. 
Edmund  Hartt's  shipyard  will  be  forever  famous  in  our  an- 
nals as  the  place  where  the  Pride  of  the  American  Navy  was 
built.     The   Hartts  were  a   family   of  shipwrights.      Besides 
Edmund,  there  were  Edward,  Zephaniah,  and  Ralph  the  mast- 


SHIP   OF  THE   TIME   OF  THE   PILGRIMS. 


A  VISIT   TO   THE"  OLD    SHIPYARDS.  181 

maker.  Edmund  lived  opposite  his  yard,  in  what  was  then  Ship 
Street.  He  was  one  of  the  original  trustees  of  the  Mechanic 
Charitable  Association. 

Before  the  establishment  of  government  dockyards,  private 
yards  were  used  for  budding  national  vessels,  and  Hartt's  went 
for  a  long  time  by  the  name  of  "  Hartt's  Naval  Yard."  Thorn- 
ton's yard  on  the  map  of  1722  corresponds  with  Hartt's,  which 
is  now  known  as  Constitution  Wharf. 

The  frigates  Constitution  and  Boston  and  brig  Argus  were 
all  built  here.  All  three  are  known  to  fame ;  but  the  glorious 
career  of  Old  Ironsides  is  indelibly  associated  with  the  downfall 
of  England's  naval  supremacy.     The  proud  boast  of  Waller  — 

"  Others  may  use  the  ocean  as  their  road, 
Only  the  English  make  it  their  abode  "  — 

was  rendered  obsolete  by  the  deeds  of  a  navy  unborn  when  he 
wrote. 

In  consequence  of  the  depredations  of  the  Algerine  corsairs 
upon  our  commerce,  an  act  was  passed  at  the  lirst  session  of 
the  Third  Congress  to  provide,  by  purchase  or  otherwise,  four 
ships  to  carry  forty-four  guns  and  two  to  carry  thirty-six.  This 
act  was  approved  by  President  Washington, 'March  27,  1794. 
The  keel  of  the  Constitution  was  accordingly  laid  by  Mr.  Hartt 
in  November  of  that  year,  and  preparations  made  for  setting 
her  up.  Mr.  Cooper,  in  his  Naval  History,  says  her  keel  was 
laid  on  Charlestown  Neck,  —  a  situation  somewhat  remote  from 
her  actual  birthplace,  —  and  has  also  incorrectly  stated  the 
date  of  her  launch,  an  error  into  which  many  historians  have 
been  led  by  the  two  unsuccessful  attempts  made  before  she 
finally  passed  to  her  destined  element. 

Peace  being  concluded  with  the  Dey  of  Algiers,  work  was 
ordered  stopped  on  three  of  the  new  frigates,  and  the  mate- 
rials sold.  The  act  of  July  1,  1797,  approved  by  President 
John  Adams,  makes  the  first  official  mention  of  the  Constitu- 
tion. The  President  was  authorized  to  cause  the  frigates 
United  States,  Constitution,  and  Constellation  to  be  manned 
and  employed. 

The   names   of  all  who  contributed   by  their  labor  to  the 


182  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

building  of  Old  Ironsides  deserve  to  be  perpetuated,  but  the 
records  of  the  Navy  Department  having  been  destroyed  when 
Washington  was  captured  in  1814,  the  loss  of  the  mechanics' 
rolls  has  been  supplied  only  after  diligent  search.  She  was 
designed  by  Joshua  Humphries  of  Philadelphia,  and  constructed 
under  the  superintendence  of  Colonel  George  Claghorn  of  New 
Bedford.  Captains  Barry,  Dale,  and  Truxton  of  the  navy  agreed 
with  Mr.  Humphries  upon  the  dimensions  of  the  Constitution, 
and  Mr.  Humphries  prepared  the  drafts,  moulds,  and  building 
instructions.  Her  masts  and  spars  were  made  in  the  yard  be- 
tween Comey's  Wharf  and  the  shipyard  ;  Paul  Revere  furnished 
the  copper  bolts  and  spikes,  drawn  from  malleable  copper  by  a 
process  then  new  ;  and  Ephraim  Thayer,  who  had  a  shop  at  the 
South  End,  made  the  gun-carriages  for  the  frigate.  He  after- 
wards made  those  used  on  the  gunboats  built  under  Jefferson's 
administration.  Isaac  Harris,  who  worked  as  an  apprentice  in 
the  mast-yard  in  1797,  put  new  sticks  into  the  frigate  during 
the  war  of  1812.  To  him  is  said  to  belong  the  honor  of  first 
applying  in  this  country  the  important  improvement  of  making 
ships'  masts  in  sections.  He  constructed  the  first  shears  used 
at  the  Navy  Yard  at  Charlestown  for  placing 
the  heavy  masts  of  war-vessels  in  position. 
A  brave  act  is  recorded  of  him  in  connection 
with  the  Old  South,  and  we  shall  presently 
allude  to  him  in  connection  with  a  very  cele- 
brated flag-raising.  The  anchors  of  the  Con- 
stitution were  made  in  Hanover,  Plymouth 
County,  Mass. 

Mr.  Hartly  of  Boston,  father  of  a  subse- 
quent naval  constructor,  assisted  Colonel  Clag- 
horn ;  and  Captain  Nicholson,  who  was  ap- 
the  war  of  1812.  pointed  her  first  commander,  exercised  a 
general  supervision,  in  which  he  was  aided  by  General  Jackson 
and  Major  Gibbs  of  Boston.  Under  the  orders  of  Colonel 
Claghorn,  Edmund  Hartt  was  the  master  carpenter.  The  frig- 
ate's sails  were  made  in  the  Old  Granary,  at  the  corner  of  Park 
and  Tremont  Streets,  where  now  stands  Park  Street  Church. 


CONSTITUTION  S   FIG- 
URE-HEAD CARRIED  IN 


A  VISIT   TO   THE   OLD    SHIPYARDS.  183 

No  other  building  in  Boston  was  large  enough.  The  Messrs. 
Skillings  of  Boston  were  the  carvers  of  the  figure-head  and  stern 
ornaments  and  of  the  cabin.  She  first  carried  at  her  prow  a  fig- 
ure  of  Hercules  with  uplifted  club.  .  This  was  shot  away  before 
Tripoli,  and  seems  to  have  been  exchanged  at  the  beginning  of 
1812  for  a  Neptune,  which  is  alluded  to  in  the  old  song,  — 
"  By  the  Trident  of  Neptune,  brave  Hull  cried,  let 's  steer, 
It  points  to  the  track  of  the  bullying  Guerriere." 

She  subsequently  bore  a  plain  billetdiead  scroll,  now  preserved 
at  Charlestown  Navy  Yard  by  the  thoughtful  care  of  some  un- 
known commander  at  that  station.  Finally,  the  bows  of  the 
gallant  old  craft  were  decorated  with  a  bust  of  General  Jackson. 
The  Constitution  first  carried  an  English  battery  ;  her  frame 
was  live-oak. 

"  Day  by  day  the  vessel  grew, 

With  timbers  fashioned  strong  and  true, 

Stenison  and  keelson  and  sternson  knee, 

Till,  framed  with  perfect  symmetry, 

A  skeleton  ship  rose  up  to  view." 

At  length  came  the  20th  September,  1797,  the  day  on  whicb 
Colonel  Claghorn  had  announced  that  he  would  launch  the 
Constitution.  People  poured  into  the  town  from  all  quarters. 
Tbe  day  was  pleasant,  but  cold,  and  the  neighboring  wharves 
were  crowded  with  spectators,  who  received  warning  that  the 
passage  of  the  vessel  into  the  water  would  create  a  swell  that 
might  endanger  their  safety.  About  six  hundred  people  went 
over  to  Noddle's  Island,  where  they  could  obtain  a  fine  view  of 
the  expected  launch.  At  high  water,  twenty  minutes  past 
eleven,  the  signal  was  given,  but  tbe  ship  only  moved  about 
eight  feet.  Her  colors  were  then  lowered,  and  the  assembled 
multitude  dispersed  with  disappointment  and  anxious  forebod- 
ings. 

Owing  to  an  accident  to  the  United  States,  launched  at  Phil- 
adelphia, by  which  she  ran  oil'  the  ways  an  hour  before  it  was 
intended,  damaging  her  keel  and  injuring  several  people,  the 
ways  of  the  Constitution  were  laid  too  level,  to  prevent  a  simi- 
lar accident.  Part  of  the  site  of  Hartt's  yard  was  natural,  ami 
part  artificial ;  the  latter  sank  under  the  immense  weight.    The 


184  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

vessel  might  have  been  forced  off,  but  the  constructor  decided 
not  to  attempt  a  measure  so  hazardous. 

On  Friday,  the  22d,  a  second  effort  was  made  to  get  the 
frigate  afloat.  She  moved  a  little  and  then  stuck  fast.  Grave 
doubts  were  now  expressed  as  to  the  practicability  of  moving 
her,  and  the  "ill-fated  ship,"  as  the  superstitious  now  regarded 
her,  remained  seemingly  fixed  in  her  position. 

Saturday,  October  21,  a  third  attempt  was  made,  the  high 
tides  having  afforded  an  opportunity  of  completing  the  ways. 
The  day  was  lowering  and  cold,  with  an  easterly  wind.  But 
few  people  assembled,  the  general  belief  being  that  this  would, 
like  the  other  attempts,  prove  abortive.  A  few  dignitaries, 
specially  invited,  gathered  within  the  narrow  limits  of  the  yard. 
At  half  past  twelve  p.  M.  all  was  ready. 

"  And  at  the  mast-head, 
White,  blue,  and  red, 
A  flag  unrolls  the  stripes  and  stars." 

Commodore  James  Sever  stood  on  the  heel  of  the  bowsprit, 
and,  according  to  the  usage  of  the  time,  baptized  the  ship  with 
a  bottle  of  choice  old  Madeira  from  the  cellar  of  Hon.  Thomas 
Russell,  a  leading  Boston  merchant.  A  few  invited  guests, 
among  whom  were  some  ladies,  stood  on  the  vessel's  deck.  At 
last,  at  the  given  signal,  — 

"  She  starts,  —  she  moves,  —  she  seems  to  feef 
The  thrill  of  life  along  her  keel  ; 
And,  spuming  with  her  foot  the  ground, 
With  one  exulting,  joyous  bound, 
She  leaps  into  the  ocean's  arms  !  " 

"We  have  extracted  the  following  incident  of  the  launch  from 
the  manuscript  of  Captain  Preble's  "  History  of  the  Flag  "  :  — - 

"  We  are  glad  to  be  able  to  record  the  name  of  the  person  who 
first  hoisted  our  flag  over  her,  little  imagining  the  glorious  history 
she  would  make.  When  the  Constitution  was  about  ready  to  launch, 
Commodore  Nicholson,  who  had  charge  and  superintendence  of  her 
construction,  left  the  shipyard  to  get  his  breakfast,  leaving  express 
orders  not  to  hoist  any  flag  over  her  until  Ids  return,  intending  to 
reserve  the  honor  to  himself.  Among  the  workmen  upon  her  was  a 
shipwright  and  calker  named  Samuel  Bentley,  who,  with  the  assist- 


A   VISIT   TO   THE   OLD   SHIPYARDS.  185 

ance  of  another  workman  named  Harris,  bent  on  and  hoisted  the 
stars  and  stripes  during  the  commodore's  absence.  When  the  com- 
modore returned  and  saw  our  flag,  contrary  to  his  orders,  floating 
over  her,  he  was  very  wrath y,  and  expressed  himself  in  words  more 
strong  than  polite  to  the  offending  workmen.  Could  he  have  fore- 
seen the  future  of  the  noble  frigate  he  would  have  been  still  more 
excited.  He  had,  however,  the  satisfaction  of  being  the  first  to  com- 
mand her,  and  we  know  she  was  the  first  of  the  new  frigates  to  carry 
the  fifteen  stars  and  stripes  under  canvas  upon  the  deep  blue  sea. 
Bentley  died  in  Boston  in  1852.  The  fifteen  stars  and  stripes  were 
worn  by  her  before  Tripoli  and  throughout  the  war  of  1812." 

In  Emmons's  Naval  List  the  Constitution  is  described  as  a 
ship  of  44  guns,  400  men,  1,576  tons,  and  cost,  ready  for  sea, 
$302,719.  She  has  been  several  times  rebuilt,  but  the  orig- 
inal model,  tonnage,  and  general  appearance  were  preserved. 
In  1833  the  frigate  was  taken  into  the  new  Dry  Dock  at 
Charlestown  in  the  presence  of  the  Vice-President  Mr.  Van 
Buren,  Lewis  Cass,  Secretary  of  War,  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy  Mr.  Woodbury,  and  other  distinguished  personages.  The 
President,  General  Jackson,  was  to  have  been  present,  but  was 
prevented  by  illness.  Commodore  Hull  had  charge  of  her  on 
this  interesting  occasion,  and  his  clear  voice  was  frequently 
heard  ringing  from  the  quarter-deck  of  his  former  glory. 
Loammi  Baldwin,  engineer  of  the  Dry  Dock,  also  assisted  at 
the  ceremony.  The  frigate  was  entirely  dismantled  and  dis- 
masted, with  all  her  gingerbread-work  stripped  off  preparatory 
to  a  thorough  overhauling.  Her  hull  presented  a  most  venera- 
ble appearance,  the  bottom  being  covered  with  mussels,  many 
of  which  were  gathered  as  relics. 

Here  she  was  rebuilt  by  Josiah  Barker,  the  eminent  naval 
constructor  of  the  Vermont  and  Virginia  ships-of-the-line,  the 
frigate  Cumberland,  sloops-of-war  Marion,  Cyane,  Bainbridge, 
and  many  others.  Mr.  Barker's  first  shipyard  occupied  the 
site  of  the  present  Navy  Yard.  There  is  now  in  this  yard  a 
mast-maker,  named  Harding,  who  has  more  than  once  masted 
and  sparred  this  good  ship. 

The  Constitution  first  moved  under  canvas  July  20,  1798, 
proceeding  to  sea  August  13.     The  roll  of  her  commanders  em- 


18G  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

braces  in  their  order  Samuel  Nicholson,  who  had  been  a  lieu- 
tenant with  Paul  Jones  in  his  action  with  the  Serapis  ;  Edward 
Preble,  styled  "  the  father  of  our  navy,"  who  had  served  in  the 
old  Protector  and  Winthrop,  and  who  in  1804  gallantly  laid 
Old  Ironsides  under  the  walls  of  Tripoli ;  Isaac  Hull,  fourth 
lieutenant  of  the  old  bark  in  her  hrst  cruise,  executive  officer  in 
1800,  and  finally  in  1812,  as  commander,  the  victor  in  the 
famous  action  with  the  Guerriere  ;  William  Bainbridge,  a  tried 
officer  of  the  old  navy,  captured  in  the  Philadelphia  at  Tripoli 
in  1803,  and  subsequently  conqueror  in  December,  1812,  of  the 
Java,  British  frigate  ;  Charles  Stewart,  who  closed  the  war  so 
gloriously  for  his  flag  by  the  capture  of  two  British  frigates,  the 
Cyane  and  Levant.  This  action  was  fought  on  a  beautiful 
moonlight  evening  off  Madeira  after  peace  was  concluded,  but 
by  the  terms  of  the  treaty  the  capture  was  legalized. 

Besides  these  names,  so  illustrious  in  the  pages  of  naval  war- 
fare, the  Constitution  was  commanded  a  short  time  in  1804  by 
the  brave  but  ill-fated  Decatur ;  by  John  Ptodgers ;  by  Jacob 
Jones ;  by  T.  Macdonough,  J.  D.  Elliott,  and  others,  whose 
deeds  have  passed  into  history.  The  brave  Lawrence,  gallant 
David  Porter,  Charles  Ludlow,  and  Charles  Morris  have  served 
in  her  as  first-lieutenants,  while  Isaac  Chauncey  was  a  master 
commandant,  and  Shubrick  a  lieutenant.  The  latter  officer, 
now  rear-admiral  and  blind,  is  the  only  survivor  among  the 
officers  of  the  battle  with  the  Cyane  and  Levant,  in  which  he 
was  engaged. 

The  first  crew  of  the  Constitution  were,  with  few  exceptions, 
natives  of  Massachusetts.  Her  career  and  exploits  are  as  fa- 
miliar as  household  words.  No  ship  was  ever  so  loved  by  a 
nation,  not  even  the  famous  old  Victory  of  Xelson.  Good  luck 
pursued  her  without  the  intervention  of  the  horse-shoe  which 
Nelson  carried  nailed  to  his  mast-head. 

"Aye,  put  her  atop  on  the  log-book  of  fame, 

Her  voice  always  roared  from  the  van, 
When  she  bore  down  in  thunder  and  darkness  and  flame, 

Crash  foundering  each  foe  that  before  her  came, 
The  old  sailors'  love  flashes  up  at  her  name, 

For  her  yards  Young  Americans  man." 


A   VISIT   TO   THE    OLD    SHIPYARDS.  187 

The  first  cruise  of  Old  Ironsides  under  Nicholson  and  the 
second  under  Talbot  are  void  of  any  interesting  features,  and 
it  was  not  until  Preble  commanded  her  in  the  Mediterranean, 
in  1803,  that  she  fired  a  broadside  at  an  enemy. 

Cooper  says  that  Preble  was  appointed  to  the  Constitution  as 
first  lieutenant  under  Commodore  Nicholson,  but  got  relieved, 
his  relations  with  his  commander  not  being  cordial.  Preble 
hoisted  his  flag  on  board  the  Constitution,  May  21,  1803.  The 
ship,  having  been  lying  in  ordinary  for  ten  months,  was  unfit  for 
immediate  service,  and  the  commodore  caused  a  thorough  over- 
hauling of  the  vessel  to  be  made,  personally  scrutinizing  every 
rope  and  timber  in  her.  Under  his  orders  she  achieved  her 
early  reputation,  and  was,  when  he  turned  her  over  to  Decatur, 
a  ship  to  be  proud  of.  After  lying  some  time  in  President's 
Eoads  taking  in  powder,  etc.,  the  Constitution  weighed  anchor 
and  sailed  on  her  famous  cruise  to  the  Mediterranean,  Sunday, 
August  14,  1803. 

Her  escape  from  the  British  squadron  in  July,  1812,  was  due 
to  Yankee  ingenuity.  The  method  by  which  this  was  accom- 
plished is,  it  is  believed,  understood  by  few.  The  Constitution 
carried  two  umbrellas,  so  called,  made  of  stout  spars  attached  to 
a  central  one  precisely  like  an  umbrella  frame.  These  were 
covered  with  canvas,  and  were  capable  of  being  expanded  or 
closed  ;  the  weight  of  the  iron-work  caused  them  to  sink. 
While  the  becalmed  British  vessels  were  towing  with  their 
boats,  Hull  caused  his  umbrellas  to  be  carried  out  ahead  and 
warped  his  vessel  up  to  them,  so  contriving,  that  while  one 
was  being  hauled  in  the  other  was  being  put  in  position.  In 
this  way,  he  left  his  pursuers  astern  before  they  discovered  the 
means  employed  to  escape  them.  These  umbrellas  are  now  in 
the  Charlestown  Navy  Yard,  where,  it  is  hoped,  they  may  be 
preserved  with  care.  The  Constitution  ran  into  Marblehead  on 
Sunday. 

While  Dr.  Bentley,  pastor  of  the  Second  Church  at  Salem, 
was  in  the  midst  of  his  sermon,  some  one  called  out  uniler  the 
window  of  the  church,  "The  British  fleet  is  chasing  the  Con- 
stitution into  Marblehead."     The  minister  instantly  dismissed 


188  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

his  congregation,  seized  his  hat,  and  ran  out  of  the  church,  fol- 
lowing the  men  and  cannon  towards  the  scene  of  action.  Being 
a  short,  thick-set  man,  and  the  mercury  at  eighty-live,  the  good 
doctor  soon  gave  out,  when  he  was  lifted  astride  one  of  the 
cannon,  and  in  this  way  proceeded  to  the,  beach.  Dr.  Bentley 
was  a  Boston  boy,  graduate  and  tutor  at  Harvard,  and  for  a 
long  time  an  editor  of  the  Salem  Gazette  and  Salem  Register. 

The  following  anecdotes  of  Hull  are  printed  in  Miss  Quincy's 
Memoir  :  — 

"Toward  evening  on  the  29th  of  August,  1812,  a  frigate  (recog- 
nized as  the  Constitution)  came  in  under  full  sail  and  dropped  her 
anchor  beside  Rainsford  Island,  —  then  the  quarantine  ground.  The 
next  morning  a  fleet  of  armed  ships  appeared  off  Point  Alderton. 
As  they  rapidly  approached,  the  Constitution  was  observed  to  raise 
her  anchor  and  sails  and  go  boldly  forth  to  meet  the  apparent 
enemy  ;  but  as  the  frigate  passed  the  leader  of  the  fleet,  a  friendly 
recognition  was  exchanged  instead  of  the  expected  broadside.  They 
joined  company,  and  the  Constitution  led  the  way  to  Boston.  It 
was  the  squadron  of  Commodore  Rodgers  returning  unexpectedly 
from  a  long  cruise. 

"  A  few  days  afterwards,  Hull,  who  had  just  taken  the  Guemere, 
came  with  Decatur  to  breakfast  at  Quincy.  When  this  incident  was 
mentioned,  Hull  said,  '  I  must  acknowledge  I  participated  in  the 
apprehensions  of  my  friends  on  shore.  Thinking  myself  safe  in 
port,  I  told  my  officers  to  let  the  men  wash  their  clothes,  and  get  the 
ship  in  order  to  go  up  to  Boston  ;  and  being  excessively  fatigued, 
went  to  my  stateroom.  I  was  sound  asleep  when  a  lieutenant  rushed 
down,  exclaiming,  '  Captain,  the  British  are  upon  us  !  —  an  armed 
fleet  is  entering  the  harbor  ! '  No  agreeable  intelligence,  certainly  ; 
for  I  was  wholly  unprepared  to  engage  with  a  superior  force.  But 
determined  to  sell  our  lives  as  dear  as  I  could,  I  gave  orders  to  clear 
the  decks,  weigh  anchor,  and  get  ready  for  immediate  action.  I  con- 
fess I  was  greatly  relieved  when  I  saw  the  American  flag  and  recog- 
nized Bodgers.'  In  speaking  of  the  conflict  with  the  Guerriere,  he 
said,  'I  do  not  mind  the  day  of  battle  ;  the  excitement  carries  one 
through  :  but  the  day  after  is  fearful ;  it  is  so  dreadful  to  see  my 
men  wounded  and  suffering.' 

"  Tliese  naval  officers  formed  a  striking  contrast.  Hull  was  easy 
and  prepossessing  in  his  manners,  but  looked  accustomed  to  face 
'the  battle  and  the  breeze.'     Decatur  was  uncommonly  handsome, 


A   VISIT   TO   THE   OLD    SHIPYARDS.  189 

and  remarkable  for  the  delicacy  and  refinement  of  his  appear- 
ance." 

Hull,  who  had  a  good  deal  of  the  bluff  sailor  about  him, 
exclaimed  when  he  saw  the  mast  of  the  Guerriere  go  by  the 
board,  —  "  Huzzah,  my  boys,  we  've  made  a  brig  of  her."  A 
shipmaster,  prisoner  on  board  the  Guerriere,  gives  an  interest- 
ing relation  of  his  experience  during  the  action.  While  the 
Constitution  was  manoeuvring  for  position,  Captain  Dacres  asked 
his  prisoner,  "  Do  you  think  she  will  strike  without  firing  1 " 

Obtaining  permission  to  retire  into  the  cockpit,  the  captain 
says  :  — 

"Within  one  moment  after  my  foot  left  the  ladder  the  Constitu- 
tion gave  that  double-shotted  broadside  which  threw  all  in  the  cock- 
pit over  in  a  heap  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ship.  For  a  moment 
it  seemed  as  if  heaven  and  earth  had  struck  together  ;  a  more  terrific 
shock  cannot  be  imagined." 

After  the  firing  had  ceased,  the  prisoner  returned  to  the  deck, 
and  continues  :  — 

"  What  a  scene  was  presented,  and  how  changed  in  so  short  a  time, 
during  which  the  Guerriere  had  been  totally  dismasted  and  otherwise 
cut  to  pieces,  so  as  not  to  make  her  worth  towing  into  port.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  Constitution  looked  perfectly  fresh,  and  even  those 
on  board  the  Guerriere  did  not  know  what  ship  had  fought  them. 
Captain  Dacres  stood  with  his  officers  surveying  the  scene,  —  all  in 
the  most  perfect  astonishment." 

"  At  this  moment  a  boat  was  seen  putting  off  from  the  hostile  ship. 
As  soon  as  within  speaking  distance,  a  young  gentleman  (Midship- 
man, late  Commodore  Reed)  hailed  and  said,  '  Commodore  Hull's 
Compliments,  and  wishes  to  know  if  you  have  struck  your  flag?' 
At  this  Captain  Dacres  appeared  amazed,  but  recovering  himself  and 
looking  up  and  down,  he  deliberately  said,  —  'Well,  I  don't  know  ; 
—  our  mainmast  is  gone,  our  mizzenmast  is  gone,  and  upon  the  whole 
you  may  say  we  have  struck  our  flag.' " 

The  little  hurt  received  by  the  Constitution  in  this  engage- 
ment —  her  hull  showing  only  here  and  there  a  scar  —  gave  her 
the  name  of  Old  Ironsides,  by  which  she  was  familiarly  known. 
Her  crew,  indeed,  affirmed  that  the  Guerriere's  shot  fell  harm- 
less from  her  "  iron  sides." 


190  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Old  Ironsides  arrived  in  Boston  on  a  Sunday,  about  noon, 
from  this  cruise.  The  ship  was  soon  surrounded  by  boats 
eager  to  learn  the  news,  which  was  communicated  to  the  first 
that  came  alongside.  Instantly  the  word  was  passed  to  the 
other  boats,  "  The  Constitution  has  captured  the  Guerriere !  " 
The  men  cheered,  swung  their  hats,  and  spread  the  joy  fid 
tidings  to  the  shore,  where  thousands  gathered  on  the  wharves 
took  up  the  refrain  until  it  echoed  from  one  extremity  of  the 
town  to  the  other. 

"On  Brazil's  coast  she  ruled  the  roast 
When  Bainbridge  was  her  captain  ; 
Neat  hammocks  gave,  made  of  the  wave, 
Dead  Britons  to  be  wrapped  in." 

Bainbridge,  who  succeeded  Hull  in  the  command  of  the  Con- 
stitution, next  fought  a  well-contested  action  with  the  Java  on 
the  coast  of  Brazil,  December  29,  bringing  his  own  ship  victo- 
riously out  of  the  right.  The  Java,  indeed,  only  struck  her 
flag  after  the  loss  of  every  mast  and  spar,  bowsprit  included. 
Her  gallant  commander,  Lambert,  was  mortally  wounded.  The 
disabled  condition  of  his  prize,  with  the  great  distance  from  our 
own  shores,  compelled  Bainbridge  to  destroy  the  Java,  as  Hull 
had  destroyed  the  Guerriere.  When  the  officers  of  the  Java 
left  the  Constitution  at  St.  Salvador,  they  expressed  the  warm- 
est gratitude  for  the  humane  and  generous  treatment  they  had 
experienced. 

Bainbridge  returned  to  Boston  from  this  cruise,  arriving  on 
the  15th  of  February.  He  was  received  on  landing  by  a  salute 
of  artillery,  and  a  procession  was  formed  at  Faneuil  Hall  headed 
by  the  "  Boston  Light  Infantry  "  and  "  Winslow  Blues,"  which 
escorted  the  commodore  to  the  Exchange  Coffee  House,  where 
the  company  sat  down  to  a  superb  banquet.  Hull  and  Rodgers 
walked  with  Bainbridge  in  the  procession,  and  shared  the  ap- 
plause bestowed  upon  him.  At  the  dinner  Governor  Gore  pre- 
sided, assisted  by  H.  G.  Otis,  Israel  Thorndike,  T.  L.  Winthrop, 
William  Sullivan,  and  others.  The  Legislature  being  in  session 
passed  complimentary  resolutions. 

The  commodore,  with  some  of  his  officers,  visited  the  Federal 


A   VISIT   TO   THE   OLD    SHIPYARDS.  191 

Street  Theatre,  where  they  were  immediately  recognized  hy  the 
audience,  which  rose  up  as  if  by  one  impulse,  while  cheer  upon 
cheer  shook  the  house  from  pit  to  dome.  The  veteran  Cooper, 
who  on  that  night  was  playing  Macbeth,  flung  his  bonnet  in 
the  air  and  joined  in  the  applause. 

In  June,  1813,  Stewart  was  appointed  to  command  her,  and 
proceeded  to  sea  December  30,  although  Boston  was  then  block- 
aded by  seven  of  the  enemy's  ships.  She  returned  in  April, 
1814,  and  was  chased  into  Marblehead  by  the  frigates  Tene- 
dos  and  Junon.  The  country  was  alarmed,  and  the  local 
militia  from  Newbury  port  to  Boston  marched  to  defend  the 
frigate  ;  one  Boston  company,  the  New  England  Guards,  pro- 
ceeded as  far  as  Charlestown,  when  they  learned  that  the  pursuit 
had  been  abandoned.  They  then  found  that  their  cartridge- 
boxes  were  empty. 

In  December,  1814,  Stewart  sailed  on  his  second  cruise  and 
encountered,  February  28,  off  Madeira,  the  British  frigates 
Cyane  and  Levant,  which  were  both  captured  after  a  contest 
in  which  the  Constitution  was  handled  with  consummate  skill 
by  her  commander.  Of  the  prizes,  only  the  Cyane  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  United  States,  the  Levant  being  recaptured  by 
Sir  George  Collier's  squadron,  which  suddenly  appeared  off  Port 
Praya,  where  Old  Ironsides  was  quietly  lying  with  her  captives. 
All  three  vessels  were  compelled  to  cut  their  cables  and  run  for 
it.  The  Cyane  arriving  first  at  New  York,  great  anxiety  was 
felt  for  the  Constitution,  and  on  her  arrival  at  that  port  on  the 
15th  of  May,  1815,  the  ship  and  commander  were  greeted  with 
the  utmost  enthusiasm. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  1828,  Old  Ironsides  returned  from  a  long 
cruise  in  the  Mediterranean  to  the  place  of  her  nativity.  As 
she  passed  up  to  the  Navy  Yard,  the  roar  of  her  guns  mingled 
with  the  echoes-  from  the  Castle  and  from  Constitution  Wharf, 
the  place  of  her  birth.  The  guns  were  firing  peaceful  salutes 
instead  of  round  shot  and  grape,  but  the  presence  of  the  idolized 
frigate  gave  additional  eclat  to  the  national  holiday. 

It  was  at  one  time  decided  to  break  her  up,  and  orders  had 
actually  been  issued  to  this  effect.     The  destruction  of  her  old 


102 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


timbers  seemed  like  an  act  of  sacrilege,  and  gave  rise  to  Holmes's 
much  admired  lines  expressive  of  the  universal  feeling  of  con- 
demnation. To  the  poet's  impassioned  outburst  is  due  the 
preservation  of  the  Constitution  on  the  roll  of  the  American 

Navy  :  — 

"0,  better  that  her  shattered  hull 
Should  sink  beneath  the  wave  ; 
Her  thunders  shook  the  mighty  deep, 

And  there  should  be  her  grave. 
Nail  to  the  mast  her  holy  flag, 

Set  every  threadbare  sail, 
And  give  her  to  the  god  of  storms, 
The  lightning,  and  the  gale." 

From  the  old  timbers  were  made  a  number  of  relics  which 
have  no  doubt  been  highly  prized  by  their  possessors.  Mr. 
Barker,  the  constructor,  sent  a  cane  to  Joshua  Humphries,  her 
original  designer.  In  1836  a  beautiful  coach  was  built  entirely 
of  the  wood  of  the  old  frigate  at  Amherst,  Mass.,  intended  as 


THE   CONSTITUTION   HAULED   UP   ON   THE   WATS. 

a  New- Year's  present  to  General  Jackson  from  several  gentlemen 
of  New  York  City.  Commodore  Hull  presented  canes  from  the 
original  wood  to  President  Jackson,  Mr.  Van  Buren,  and  Mr. 
Poinsett  at  the  time  the  ship  Avas  docked. 


A  VISIT   TO   THE   OLD    SHIPYARDS.  193 

The  captured  flags  of  the  Cyane,  Levant,  Guerriere,  and  Java 
are  in  the  Naval  Academy  at  Annapolis,  but  of  her  original 
battery,  before  which  the  "  wooden  walls  of  Old  England  "  went 
down,  no  traces  have  been  found.  One  of  the  guns  was  dented 
by  the  enemy's  shot ;  but  we  have  reason  to  apprehend  that  these 
dogs  of  war  were  broken  up  and  treated  as  so  much  old  iron. 

The  Constitution  carried  out  Ministers  Barlow  and  Cass  to 
France,  and  brought  home  Mr.  Livingstone  and  family.  Her 
flag  has  been  seen  in  nearly  every  sea,  and  her  deck  has  been 
trod  by  many  noble  personages.  In  1822,  while  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, she  was  visited  by  Lord  Byron,  who,  while  endeavor- 
ing to  preserve  his  incognito,  was  much  embarrassed  at  finding 
all  the  officers  on  deck  in  full  uniform  to  receive  him.  Lord 
Byron  was  accompanied  by  Count  Gamba,  father  of  the  Count- 
ess Guiccioli.  A  beautifully  bound  volume  of  his  poems  was 
lying  on  the  cabin  table,  which  he  took  up  with  evident  pleasure 
at  the  delicate  compliment  implied. 

An  episode  of  this  visit  caused  Byron  to  remark,  "  that  he 
would  rather  have  a  nod  from  an  American  than  a  snuff-box 
from  an  emperor."  This  is  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  surly 
saying  of  Johnson,  —  "I  am  willing  to  love  all  mankind  except 
an  American."  At  this  time  Commodore  Jacob  Jones  flew  his 
broad  pennant  on  board  the  old  craft. 

After  Old  Ironsides  had  emerged  a  new  ship  from  Mr.  Bar- 
ker's hands,  there  happened  to  her  an  adventure  that  awakened 
at  the  time  the  most  intense  excitement  in  Boston,  and  which, 
from  its  peculiar  aspects,  was  soon  communicated  all  over 
the  seaboard.  This  was  known  as  the  "  Affair  of  the  Figure- 
ECead."  Andrew  Jackson  was  President,  and  had  been  greeted 
with  the  consideration  due  his  official  station  during  his  visit  to 
Boston  of  the  previous  year.  Under  this  outward  courtesy, 
however,  was  an  undercurrent  of  political  antagonism,  apparent 
enough  in  the  public  prints  of  the  day.  Cheers  were  raised  for 
Mr.  Clay  in  Faneuil  Hall  at  the  time  of  General  Jackson's  re- 
ception  there.  The  old  political  party  which  controlled  Boston 
was  ] mt ting  on  the  new  title  of  "  Whig,"  under  which  it  subse- 
quently fought.  Not  even  the  LL.  D.  conferred  upon  the  Pres- 
9  m 


194  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

ident  at  Harvard  could  reconcile  the  opposition  with  the  acts 
of  his  administration. 

The  appearance  of  the  frigate  Constitution,  therefore,  with  a 
figure-head  of  President  Jackson  was  greeted  with  a  storm  of 
disapproval.  When  it  was  known  that  it  was  the  intention  of 
Commodore  Jesse  D.  Elliott,  the  then  commander  of  the  Navy 
Yard,  to  thus  ornament  the  frigate's  hows,  and  that  Laban  S. 
Beecher,  the  well-known  Boston  carver,  was  at  work  upon  it, 
threats  were  freely  made  that  she  would  not  be  allowed  to  go 
to  sea  with  the  obnoxious  image.  Large  bribes  were  also  offered 
to  the  artist  to  destroy  his  work,  but  he  remained  true  to  his 
employers,  working  on  the  figure-head  in  his  garret,  which 
served  alike  as  his  atelier  and  citadel.  Alarmed,  however,  by 
the  menaces  against  Beecher,  and  thinking  the  head  no  longer 
safe  in  his  custody,  Commodore  Elliott  caused  its  removal  by 
an  armed  boat's  crew  to  the  Navy  Yard,  where  it  was  placed  in 
the  engine-house  and  finished  by  Beecher  at  Iris  leisure.  The 
figure  represented  the  President  in  the  Hermitage  scene,  holding 
in  his  hand  a  scroll  with  the  motto,  "  The  Union  it  must  be 
preserved."  Beecher  was  also  engaged  upon  the  busts  of  Hull, 
Bainbridge,  and  Stewart  for  stern  ornaments  of  the  frigate. 

The  graven  image  was  placed  at  the  Constitution's  stem,  but 
on  the  3d  of  July  (1834)  was  discovered  to  have  been  muti- 
lated, —  the  head  being  sawed  completely  off,  leaving  only  the 
body  of  the  Chief  Magistrate.  The  affair  caused  a  great  noise. 
It  was  committed  during  the  prevalence  of  a  Adolent  thunder- 
storm, with  sentinels  pacing  the  ship's  deck,  while  she  herself 
lay  moored  between  two  seventy-fours  (the  Independence  and 
Columbus)  off  the  yard.  The  act  was  a  daring  one,  and  con- 
jecture was  for  a  long  time  busy  as  to  its  author,  who,  however, 
maintained  a  prudent  reserve  until  the  excitement  caused  by 
the  affair  had  time  to  cool.  What  this  excitement  was  may  be 
understood  when  it  is  stated  that  the  people  of  Wheeling.  Ya., 
rang  the  bells,  assembled  in  public  meeting,  and  passed  resolu- 
tions approving  the  act. 

On  the  night  hi  question,  Captain  Dewey,  a  Boston  ship- 
master, obtained  a  small  row-boat,  and  dropped  quietly  down 


A   VISIT   TO    THE   OLD    SHIPYARDS.  195 

with  the  tide  to  where  the  frigate  lay  moored.  Securing  his 
boat  lie  proceeded  to  his  work,  in  the  accomplishment  of  which 
he  had  to  cut  through  a  copper  bolt.  Several  times  the  sentry 
on  deck  looked  over  the  bow,  —  hearing  perhaps  the  noise  of 
the  saw,  —  when  the  workman  ceased  his  labor  for  the  time. 
The  rain  poured  in  torrents,  which,  with  the  intense  darkness, 
favored  the  bold  operator.  The  head  of  Jackson,  like  a  victim 
of  the  seraglio,  fell  into  a  sack.  Dewey  pulled  to  the  shore 
and  repaired  to  meet  some  friends  at  a  public-house,  where  his 
success  was  duly  celebrated. 

In  this  plight  the  Constitution  —  she  was  then  in  commis- 
sion —  proceeded  to  New  York,  where,  in  due  time,  a  second 
figure-head  bearing  the  same  features  took  the  place  of  the 
headless  one.  To  secure  it  from  a  similar  mutilation,  a  copper 
bolt  of  extraordinary  thickness  was  placed  perpendicularly  in 
the  head.  At  the  Charlestown  Navy  Yard  may  be  seen  the 
bust  of  General  Jackson  from  which  the  original  was  mod- 
elled. 

In  March,  1835,  the  Constitution  sailed  from  New  York  for 
the  Mediterranean  as  flag-ship  of  Commodore  Elliott,  since 
which  time  her  history  is  that  of  a  useful  but  peaceful  ship. 
At  the  outbreak  of  the  Eebellion  she  was  lying  at  Annapolis, 
where  she  would  doubtless  have  shared  the  fate  of  the  govern- 
ment vessels  at  Norfolk  and  elsewhere,  had  not  our  soldiers 
opportunely  secured  the  place.  Edward  E.  Preble,  a  grandson 
of  the  commodore,  was  on  board  the  Constitution  at  this  time. 
After  being  used  as  quarters  for  the  midshipmen  of  the  Naval 
Academy  at  Newport  and  Annapolis,  she  was,  in  1871,  towed 
round  to  Philadelphia  and  laid  up.  She  will  bear  a  conspicuous 
part  in  the  centennial  celebration  of  1876. 

From  sources  already  mentioned  it  is  ascertained  that  she 
captured  eight  armed  vessels  carrying  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
eight  guns,  and  ten -unarmed  prizes.  From  this  statement  it- 
will  be  seen  that  her  crews  shared  more  hard  knocks  than  prize 
money. 

The  next  war-vessel  built  at  Ilartt's  yard  was  the  Boston 
frigate  of  seven  hundred  tons,  so  called  because  she  was  built 


196  LANDMARKS  OF  BOSTON. 

by  the  subscription  of  Boston  merchants  and  others,  and  given 
a  free-will  offering  to  the  government.  She  was  designed, 
probably,  by  Mr.  Hartt,  and  built  under  his  superintendence. 
Her  rate  was  to  have  been  a  thirty-six,  but  she  mounted  only 
twenty-eight  guns.  On  the  22d  of  August,  1798,  her  keel  was 
laid,  and  in  April,  1799,  President  Adams  appointed  Captain 
George  Little,  of  Massachusetts,  to  command  her.  June  12 
she  hauled  into  the  stream,  and  sailed  on  her  first  cruise  July 
24,  1799.  She  was  declared  to  be  one  of  the  handsomest  ves- 
sels that  ever  floated. 

The  names  of  those  persons  who  contributed  to  build  the 
Boston  are  worthy  of  preservation.  A  notice  appeared  in  the 
Centinel  of  June  27,  1798,  that  a  subscription  would  be  opened 
in  the  chamber  over  Taylor's  Insurance  Office  (corner  of  State 
and  Kilby  Streets)  at  one  o'clock,  "  where  those  who  wish  to 
join  in  this  testimonial  of  public  spirit "  might  affix  their  sig- 
natures. At  this  meeting  f>  115,250  was  raised,  of  which  Hon. 
William  Phillips  gave  $  10,000.  This  subscription  was  subse- 
quently increased  to  $130,000;  the  frigate  cost  $137,969. 
David  Sears,  Stephen  Higginson,  Eben  Parsons,  John  Codman, 
Joseph  Coolidge  and  Son,  Theodore  Lyman,  Boot  and  Pratt, 
and  Thomas  Dickinson  gave  $  3,000  each.  Samuel  Parknian 
and  Samuel  Elliott  gave  $  4,000  each.  Benjamin  Joy,  James 
and  T.  H.  Perkins,  Thomas  "Walley,  John  Parker,  Stephen  Hig- 
ginson, Jr.,  Abiel  Smith,  and  Thomas  C.  Amory  are  down  for 
$  1,500  each.  St.  Andrew's  Lodge  gave  $  1,000.  Benjamin 
and  Nathaniel  Goddard  and  Josiah  Quincy  gave  $  500.  The 
givers  of  smaller  sums  are  not  less  deserving  of  mention,  but 
are  too  numerous  for  our  limits. 

The  Boston  got  to  sea  during  the  hostilities  with  France,  and 
soon  distinguished  herself  on  the  "West  India  station  by  cap- 
turing Le  Berceau,  a  ship  of  twenty-four  guns  and  two  hundred 
and  twenty  men ;  Les  Deux  Anges,  ship  of  twenty  guns  ;  three 
barges,  and  three  unarmed  prizes.  At  this  time  she  was  one  of 
Commodore  Talbot's  squadron.  The  next  year,  under  command 
of  Captain  McNeil,  the  Boston  carried  a  minister  to  France 
and  joined  the  Mediterranean  fleet. 


A   VISIT   TO   THE   OLD    SHIPYARDS.  197 

Captain  Little  brought  Le  Berceau,  his  prize,  into  Boston 
early  in  November.  The  Frenchman  was  completely  dismasted 
in  the  engagement,  but  was  repaired  and  restored  to  the  French 
under  treaty  stipulations.  For  circumstances  attending  this 
capture,  Captain  Little  was  court-martialled,  the  court  sitting 
on  board  the  Constitution,  but  was  honorably  acquitted.  In 
her  action  with  Le  Berceau  the  Boston  had  four  killed  and 
eight  wounded.  The  French  prisoners  were  confined  at  the 
Castle. 

In  1812  the  Boston  was  reported  unworthy  of  repair,  and  in 
1814,  when  the  British  were  advancing  on  Washington,  she  was 
burned  to  prevent  her  falling  into  the  enemy's  hands. 

The  brig  Argus,  sixteen  guns,  two  hundred  and  twenty-six 
tons,  was  built  at  Hartt's  yard  in  1803,  at  a  cost  of  $37,120. 
►She  was  designed  by  Mr.  Hartly.  In  August,  1813,  having 
landed  Mr.  Crawford,  our  Minister  to  France,  at  Havre,  she 
proceeded  to  cruise  off  the  English  and  Irish  coasts,  and  cap- 
tured and  burnt  so  many  vessels  that  the  Irish  declared  the 
Channel  was  all  ablaze.  Between  the  Shannon  and  the  Liffey 
she  captured  twenty  vessels,  most  of  which  were  burnt.  On  the 
11th  August,  1813,  the  Argus  fought  and  was  captured  by  the 
British  brig  Pelican,  of  twenty-one  guns.  Lieutenant  Wm,  H. 
Allen  of  the  Argus  was  mortally  wounded  early  in  the  conflict ; 
he  was  Decatur's  first  lieutenant  when  he  took  the  Macedonian. 
The  Argus  had  also  been  a  busy  cruiser  during  the  war  with 
Tripoli.     Both  Hull  and  Decatur  had  commanded  her. 


108  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

COPP'S    HILL    AND    THE    VICINITY. 

Copp's  Hill.  — British  Works.  —  Ancient  Arch.  — Wm.  Gray.  — Old  Ferry. 

—  Reminiscences  of  Bunker  Hill.  —  The  Cemetery.  —  Curious  Stones, 
Epitaphs,  etc.  —  Old  Funeral  Customs.  —  Charter  Street.  —  Sir  Wm. 
Phips.  — John  Foster  Williams.  — John  Hull.  — Colonial  Mint.  — Christ 
Church.  —  Revere's  Night  Ride.  —  The  Chimes.  —  The  Vaults,  —  Legends 
of.  —  Major  Pitcairn.  —  Love  Lane.  —  North  Latin  School.  —  Prince  Street. 

—  Salem  Church.  —  North  End  Heroes.  —  Captain  Manly.  —  Massachu- 
setts Spy.  —  First  Baptist  Church.  —  Second  Baptist  Church.  —  Draft  Riot, 
1863. 

WE  pursue  our  way,  after  our  long  halt  among  the  ship- 
yards, around  the  base  of  Copp's  Hill.  The  hill  itself 
is  the  early  Mill  Field  of  1632  and  later,  so  called  because  the 
windmill  used  to  grind  the  settlers'  corn  was  brought  from  Cam- 
bridge in  this  year  and  placed  upon  the  summit.  This  was  the 
first  windmill  erected  in  the  town.  The  appearance  of  Copp's 
Hill,  which  name  is  from  William  Copp,  an  early  possessor,  is 
very  different  to-day  from  what  it  was  in  1800.  At  that  time 
the  hill  terminated  abruptly  on  the  northwest  side  in  a  rugged 
cliff  almost  inaccessible  from  the  water-side.  Southerly,  the 
ground  fell  away  in  an  easy  descent  to  the  bottom  of  North 
Square  and  the  shore  of  the  Mill  Pond,  while  to  the  eastward 
a  gradual  slope  conducted  to  the  North  Battery.  The  beach  at 
the  foot  of  the  headland,  opposite  Charlestown,  was  made  into 
a  street  with  earth  taken  from  the  summit  of  the  hill,  which 
was  where  Snow-Hill  Street  now  crosses  it.  This  made  Lynn 
Street,  —  our  Commercial  Street  extension,  —  and  afforded  a 
continuous  route  along  the  water. 

Going  north,  the  rising  ground  at  Richmond  Street  indicates 
the  beginning  of  the  ascent.  The  hill  has  been  known  as  Wind- 
mill Hill  and  as  Snow  Hill ;  but  our  ancestors  were  never  at  a 


COPP'S    HILL    AND    THE    VICINITY. 


199 


ANCIENT   MILL. 


loss  for  names,  as  appears  in  the  redundancy  of  their  street 
nomenclature.  The  foot  of  the  hill,  at  the  northeasterly  side, 
went  in  old  times  by  the  name  of  New  Guinea,  on  account 
of  its  being  exclusively  inhabited  by 
blacks.  A  representation  is  here  given 
of  the  kind  of  windmill  used  by  the 
first  settlers  of  Boston.  Its  architecture 
differs  entirely  from  the  mills  used  by 
the  French  in  Canada,  the  old  stone 
mdl  at  Newport,  or  of  the  western  set- 
tlements of  the  French.  It  is  a  copy 
of  one  set  up  at  West  Boston,  the  de- 
sign for  which  may  have  been  brought 
from  the  Low  Countries. 

The  work  erected  by  the  British  from 
which  they  bombarded  the  Americans  on  Bunker  Hill  and 
set  lire  to  Charlestown,  was  on  the  summit  of  the  eminence, 
near  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Burial  Ground.  It  was  a 
small  affair,  consisting,  when  it  was  visited  in  the  folloAving  year 
(1776),  of  only  a  few  barrels  of  earth  to  form  parapets.  Three 
twenty-eight  pounders,  mounted  on  carriages,  were  left  spiked 
within.  The  battery  was  covered  by  a  small  earthwork  to  the 
rear  designed  for  the  infantry.  Trace's  of  these  works  remained 
until  the  summit  was  levelled  in  1807. 

At  the  foot  of  Henchman's  Lane,  when  the  work  of  excava- 
tion was  proceeding  at  this  point,  tbere  was  uncovered  an  arch 
built  of  brick,  of  large  dimensions,  with  an  opening  at  the  water 
side.  There  was  originally  a  high  bank  at  this  place,  —  the 
arch  spanning  the  then  Lynn  Street  and  communicating  with 
the  cellar  of  a  house  on  the  north  side.  About  forty  years  ago, 
when  digging  for  the  foundation  of  the  houses  on  the  east  side 
of  the  street,  the  remains  of  the  arch  were  found,  and  are  still 
to  be  seen  in  the  cellar  of  the  house  opposite  Henchman's  Lane. 

Those  who  examined  it  while  it  was  intact  are  of  the  "pinion 
that  it  was  intended  as  a  place  of  concealment  for  smugglers  and 
their  contraband  goods.  Many  speculations  were  indulged  as 
to  its  origin  and   its   uses,  the.  theory  that   it  was  a  retreat  for 


200  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

pirates  being  the  favorite  one.  Time  has  disclosed  that  it  was 
built  by  a  Captain  Gruchy  during  the  French  wajrsj  and  used  as 
a  place  of  deposit  for  captured  goods.  Perhaps  the  captain  was 
a  free-trader,  or  fitted  out  privateers  to  prey  upon  the  commerce 
of  the  French  king.  Gruchy  was  a  subsequent  owner  of  Sir 
William  Phips's  house,  his  land  running  down  the  hill  to  the 
water's  edge.  He  built  him  a  wharf  of  two  captured  vessels, 
which  he  sunk  for  the  purpose.*  These  old  arches  were  a 
unique  feature  of  Old  Boston,  and  doubtless  began  to  be  built 
about  the  time  Randolph  made  the  attempt  to  collect  the  king's 
excise.  Another  is  noted  built  by  Edward  Hutchinson  from 
his  house  on  North  Street. 

Lynn  Street  is  described  in  1708  as  from  the  North  Battery 
northwesterly  to  the  Ferry-way  at  Hudson's  Point;  it  retained 
this  name  until  after  1828.  Before  it  was  built  into  a  thor- 
oughfare this  street  was  only  a  narrow  way  around  the  beach. 
Henchman's  Lane  is  coeval  with  Lynn  Street  in  receiving  its 
name,  which  was  from  Captain  Daniel  Henchman,  father  of  the 
bookseller,  who  lived  within  its  precincts. 

"We  next  come  to  Foster  Street,  in  the  lower  part  of  which 
was  formerly  the  cannon  and  bell  foundry  of  Paul  Pievere.  Up 
to  the  time  of  the  establishment  of  these  works  both  cannon 
and  bells  were  imported ;  but  Eevere  cast  brass  guns  success- 
fully, and  some  of  his  bells  still  hang  in  our  steeples.  Hollow- 
ware,  stoves,  and  a  variety  of  articles  for  domestic  use  were 
manufactured  at  this  foundry,  erected  previous  to  1794. 

The  rain  had  been  falling  as  we  continued  our  walk  through 
the  filthy  street  along  the  water.  The  air  was  filled  with  the 
stench  arising  under  the  warm  sun  from  the  mud  and  garbage 
of  the  gutter,  and  from  every  door  and  window  of  the  over- 
crowded tenements  peered  forth  a  swarm  of  dirty  humanity. 
Some  one  has  called  the  Irish  the  finest  peasantry  in  the  world, 
but  perhaps  he  had  not  seen  them  herded  together  in  our  cities. 
Musing  on  these  disenchanting  features  of  our  antiquarian  pur- 
suit, we  cast  our  eyes  upward  in  the  direction  of  Christ  Church 
steeple,  which  serves  us  as  a  guide  and  beacon,  — 

*  Mrs.  Crocker's  Memoir. 


COPP'S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY.  201 

"  And  lo  !  from  out  a  dirty  alley, 
Where  pigs  and  Irish  wont  to  rally, 
I  saw  a  crazy  woman  sally, 
Bedaubed  with  grease  and  mud." 

The  reader  knows  what  a  trine  will  suffice  to  collect  a  crowd 
in  the  city.  Let  a  single  individual  stop  in  one  of  our  crowded 
thoroughfares  and  gaze  intently  in  any  direction,  he  will  he 
instantly  surrounded  hy  a  curious,  gaping  multitude.  We 
quickened  our  pace,  and  left  behind  us  the  throng  gathering 
around  the  poor  creature  crazed  with  drink,  blaspheming,  and 
tearing  her  hair  by  handfuls.  In  this  manoeuvre  we  were  antici- 
pated by  a  prudent  policeman  who  turned  the  corner  in  our  front. 

About  half-way  from  the  ferry  to  Charlestown  Bridge  is  Gray's 
Wharf,  built  by  Hon.  William  Gray,  better  known  by  the  so- 
briquet of  "  Billy."  Beginning  at  the  lowest  round  of  the 
ladder,  he  climbed  to  the  highest  mercantile  eminence,  and  at 
the  time  of  Ms  death,  in  1825,  was  the  largest  ship  owner  in 
America,  perhaps  in  the  world.  He  was  the  owner  at  one  time 
of  sixty  square-rigged  vessels,  whose  sails  whitened  every  sea. 
Mr.  Gray,  after  acting  in  the  State  Legislature,  was  elected  lieu- 
tenant-governor with  Elbridge  Gerry  in  1810.  He  was  a  Dem- 
ocrat in  politics,  sustaining  the  embargo,  notwithstanding  it 
inflicted  a  heavy  loss  upon  him.  He  lived  in  Summer  Street, 
in  the  mansion  previously  occupied  by  Governor  Sullivan. 

There  were  few  to  whom  the  face  of  the  old  merchant  was 
not  familiar.  He  was  an  early  riser,  and  performed  a  consid- 
erable amount  of  work  before  breakfast.  Affable  in  intercourse, 
unostentatious  in  manner,  Mr.  Gray  was  also  a  man  of  practical 
benevolence.  He  aided  the  government  largely  in  1812,  and 
it  is  said  but  for  him  the  Constitution  would  not  have  got  to 
sea  and  electrified  the  nation  by  her  exploits.  Mr.  Gray  was 
the  first  president  of  the  State  Bank,  the  first  democratic  bank- 
ing institution  that  obtained  a  charter  in  Massachusetts.  After 
the  Treaty  of  Ghent,  Mr.  Gray  presided  over  a  public  dinner 
given  to  John  Quincy  Adams,  at  which  the  venerable  patriarch, 
John  Adams,  was  also  present.  Mr.  Gray's  old  homestead  in 
Salem  afterwards  became  the  Essex  Coffee  House. 

Benjamin  Goodwin,  mentioned  in  the  preceding  chapter  in 
9* 


202  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

connection  with,  the  seventy-four,  lived  in  a  house  between 
Charter  and  Lynn  Streets  extending  from  one 'street  to  the 
other.  Goodwin's  Wharf  extended  from  a  point  opposite  his 
house,  and  was  sixty  to  eighty  rods  east  of  the  bridge.  He 
carried  on  a  distillery,  bake-house,  and  blacksmith-shop.  The 
premises  were  seized  by  order  of  the  British  general,  and  occu- 
pied by  his  troops  at  the  time  of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 
The  soldiers  afterwards  wantonly  destroyed  much  of  the  prop- 
erty and  some  of  the  buildings,  Mr.  Goodwin's  damages  being 
estimated  at  £  1,500,  lawful  money. 

Hudson's  Point,  the  extreme  northwest  point  of  the  town, 
was  named  from  Francis  Hudson,  the  ferry-man.  It  is  first 
called  "  ye  Mylne  Point,"  in  the  grant  of  the  ferry  to  Thomas 
Marshall  in  1635.  At  this  point  were  established  both  the 
ferries  to  Charlestown  and  Chelsea.  To  be  exact,  the  Ferry- 
way  was,  in  1720,  between  Mr.  Gee's  and  Hudson's  Point,  and 
Mr.  Joshua  Gee,  the  boat-builder,  owned  the  present  property 
of  the  Gas  Company,  his  residence  being  in  Prince  Street,  a 
short  distance  from  his  yard.  This  Mr.  Gee  was  also  owner  of 
a  large  tract  on  Copp's  Hill,  between  Charter,  Prince,  and  Snow- 
Hill  Streets.  The  town  voted  in  1720  to  move  the  General 
Court  to  take  action  about  a  bridge  at  this  place,  but  no  action 
followed. 

Among  the  reminiscences  of  the  old  Ferry,  besides  being  the 
probable  landing  of  Winthrop's  company  and  the  place  where 
the  first  white  woman  jumped  ashore,  it  is  noted  as  the  point 
of  debarkation  for  the  British  wounded  from  Bunker  Hill. 
Their  admitted  loss  in  this  battle  was  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
six  killed,  eight  hundred  and  twenty-eight  wounded,  though 
estimates  have  been  made  as  high  as  fifteen  hundred.  In 
Frothingham's  account  of  the  battle  is  the  following  description 
of  the  harrowing  scene  :  — 

"  The  wounded  during  the  whole  night  and  the  next  day  were 
conveyed  to  Boston,  where  the  streets  were  rilled  with  groans  and 
lamentation.  A  letter  of  June  30,  1775,  says  :  'I  have  seen  many 
from  Boston  who  were  eyewitnesses  of  the  most  melancholy  scene 
they  ever  beheld  hi  this  part  of  the  world.    The  Saturday  night  and 


COPP'S    HILL   AND    THE   VICINITY.  203 

Sabbath  were  taken  up  in  carrying  over  the  dead  and  wounded  ;  and 
all  the  wood-carts  in  town,  it  is  said,  were  employed,  —  chaises  and 
coaches  for  the  officers.  They  have  taken  the  workhouse,  almshouse, 
and  manufactory  house  for  the  wounded.'  The  physicians,  surgeons, 
and  apothecaries  of  Boston  rendered  every  assistance  in  their  power. 
The  processions  were  melancholy  sights.  '  In  the  first  carriage,' 
writes  Clarke,  '  was  Major  Williams,  bleeding  and  dying,  and  three 
dead  captains  of  the  52d.  In  the  second,  four  dead  officers  ;  then 
another  with  wounded  officers.'  The  privates  who  died  on  the  field 
were  immediately  buried  there,  —  '  in  holes,'  Gage's  report  states. 
'  On  Monday  morning,'  a  British  account  says,  '  all  the  dead  officers 
were  decently  buried  in  Boston  in  a  private  maimer,  in  the  different 
churches  and  churchyards  there.'" 

Francis  Eawclon,  afterwards  Marquis  of  Hastings,  and  George 
Harris,  afterwards  a  peer,  were  both  officers  of  the  5  th,  and 
wounded.  The  5th,  59th,  and  the  Welsh  Fusileers  were  ter- 
ribly cut  up. 

The  first  act  of  the  British  commander  before  the  Lexington 
expedition,  which  had  a  hostile  look,  was  the  hauling  of  the 
Somerset  man-of-war  from  the  stream  where  she  had  been  lying 
into  Charles  Biver,  so  as  to  command  the  Ferry-ways.  This  is 
stated  in  the  Salem  Gazette  of  April  18,  1775,  and  was  to  pre- 
vent communication  of  the  intended  movement  to  the  country. 
This  vessel  served  to  cover  the  disorderly  retreat  of  the  regulars 
over  Charlestown  Neck  on  their  return  from  Lexington  and 
Concord.  We  shall  see  that  the  Somerset's  watch  was  ill-kept, 
and  that  a  North  End  mechanic  looked  into  the  muzzles  of  her 
guns  as  he  carried  Warren's  errand  and  spread  the  tidings 
abroad.  The  Somerset  went  ashore  on  Cape  Cod  during  the 
war,  and  her  officers  and  crew  were  made  prisoners  by  the 
militia,  and  sent  to  Boston. 

When  Burgoyne's  army  was  near  Cambridge  as  prisoners  of 
war,  some  of  the  officers  pushed  on  over  the  ferry  into  Boston ; 
but  their  hopes  of  comfortable  quarters  and  good  cheer  were 
speedily  dashed,  for  they  were  all  peremptorily  ordered  back  to 
the  prisoners'  camps  at  Union,  Winter,  and  Prospect  Hills, 
where  barracks  bad  been  prepared  for  them.  Burgoyne  him- 
self had  the  privilege  of  entree  into  the  town,  which  he  im- 


204 


LANDMARKS    <>F    IiOSTuX. 


THE    MATHER   TOMB. 


proved  as  we  have  seen,  though  times  were  changed  since  he 
stood  on  Copp's  Hill  and  saw  his  comrades-in-arms  advance  up 
the  hillside  across  the  river  to  storm  the  American  redoubt. 
Burgoyne's  graphic  account  of  the  battle  written  to  Lord  Stan- 
ley has  supplied  the  best  English  narration  of  the  battle  of 
Bunker  Hill.  A  rapier  once  belonging  to  the  general  is  in 
possession  of  a  descendant  of  that  Benjamin  Goodwin  whose 
property  was  so  ill-used  by  the  king's  troops. 

Copp's  Hill  Burying-Ground,  first  called  the  North  Burying- 

Place,  was  the  second  place  of 
sepulture  within  the  town. 
About  three  acres  is  enclosed 
by  the  cemetery  Avails,  made 
up  of  several  tracts.  The 
first  was  conveyed  to  the  town 
in  1659,  and  composed  the 
northeastern  part.  An  addi- 
tional parcel  was  conveyed  in 
1711  by  Samuel  Sewall  and  his  wife  Hannah,  the  daughter  of 
John  Hull,  for  the  purpose  of  enlargement.  In  the  convey- 
ance was  reserved  "  one  rodd  square  in  which  Mrs.  Mary 
Thatcher  now  lyeth  buried,"  which  they  had  previously  con- 
veyed to  Joshua  Gee.  The  deed  also  gave  the  right  of  way 
across  the  burying-ground,  so  that  a  small  piece  of  private 
property,  without  any  restrictions  as  to  its  use,  exists  in  the 
midst  of  the  cemetery.  Another  strip  of  land  was  added 
on  the  Hidl  Street  side  in  after  years.  On  the  Snow-Hill 
Street  side  the  hill  has  been  cut  down  twenty  feet,  the  cem- 
etery being  there  protected  by  a  heavy  granite  wall.  A  gun- 
house  once  stood  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  new  part  of 
the  cemetery. 

When  we  are  at  King's  Chapel,  or  the  Granary  Burial- 
Ground,  amid  the  bustle  of  a  crowded  thoroughfare,  the  mind 
is  wholly  divested  of  those  feelings  of  calm  and  solitude  with 
which  we  are  accustomed  to  view  the  last  resting-places  of  the 
dead.  The  superstitious  do  not  hurry  past,  nor  do  the  timid 
pass  by  on  the  other  side.     The  absence  of  funeral  rites  for  so 


COPP'S   HILL   AND    THE   VICINITY.  205 

long  a  time  deprives  tliem  of  the  awe  and  reverence  which  such 
mournful  pageauts  inspire  ;  the  living  move  on  in  a  continual 
tide,  unbroken  except  in  the  still  watches  of  the  night,  sepa- 
rated only  by  a  narrow  barrier  from  the  motionless  dead. 

But  in  Copp's  Hill  it  is  different.  Quiet  prevails,  and  we 
almost  expect  to  hear  the  clink  of  Old  Mortality's  chisel  among 
the  gravestones. 

"  Beneath  those  rugged  elms,  that  yew-tree's  shade, 
Where  heaves  the  turf  in  many  a  mouldering  heap, 
Each  in  his  narrow  cell  forever  laid, 
The  rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet  sleep." 

Copp's  Hill  is,  however,  strangely  like  the  Chapel  Ground  in 
one  respect.  The  same  mathematical  precision  is  observable  in 
the  laying  out  of  the  walks  and  arrangement  of  the  stones. 
While  a  cemetery  may  be  beautified  under  a  competent  hand, 
what  can  excuse  the  wholesale  depredations  made  among  the 
bones  of  our  ancestors  of  the  North  End  1 

Apparently  the  oldest  stone  in  this  cemetery  bears  the  date 
of  1625,  or  before  the  settlement  of  Boston,  being  that  of 
Grace  Berry ;  that  of  Joanna,  daughter  of  "William  Copp,  is 
dated  1625-6.  It  is  said  that  these  stones  were  altered  in  a 
boyish  freak,  by  George  Darracott,  and  thus  made  to  falsify  his- 
tory. It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  in  Bridgman's  epitaphs  of 
Copp's  Hill,  these  inscriptions  are  given  as  altered,  without  ex- 
planation.    The  true  dates  are  1695-6. 

Since  the  beautiful  symbolic  customs  of  the  Greeks  and  Ro- 
mans, their  emblems  are  to  be  found  in  every  churchyard.  The 
broken  column,  the  cylinder  and  sphere,  the  monumental  urn 
and  torch,  are  types  derived  from  antiquity.  The  pyramids 
of  Egypt,  the  tombs  by  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  now  used  by  the 
living,  and  the  splendid  mausoleums  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans, 
are  evidences  of  the  respect  and  veneration  felt  for  the  departed 
in  centuries  gone  by.  Inscriptions  were  early  used  by  the 
Greeks  until  forbidden  by  Lycurgus,  except  to  such  as  died  in 
battle.  Since  then  wit,  humor,  and  sentiment  have  been  ex- 
hausted on  marble  or  stone.  Too  many,  perhaps,  profess  a 
virtue  if  they  have  it  not ;  others  are  facetious,  marking  the 


206  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

passage  of  a  soul  into  eternity  with  a  flippant  jest.     Pope  and 

Byron  wrote  epitaphs  on  dogs,  and  Voltaire  on  a  bird,  while 

Prior  demolishes  the  pretensions  of  Westminster  Abbey  in  four 

lines  :  — 

"  Nobles  and  heralds,  by  your  leave, 

Here  lies  what  once  was  Matthew  Prior, 
The  son  of  Adam  and  of  Eve  ; 

Can  Stuart  or  Nassau  claim  higher  ?  " 

The  following  is  from  a  stone  in  Copp's  Hill  :  — 

"A  sister  of  Sarah  Lucas  lieth  here, 
Whom  I  did  love  most  dear, 
And  now  her  soul  hath  took  its  flight, 
And  bid  her  spightful  foes  good  night. " 

Many  of  the  inscriptions  are  in  rude  contrast  with  the  beau- 
tifully chiselled  armorial  bearings  here  seen,  as  in  King's  Chapel 
Ground,  the  best  executed  specimens  of  mortuary  sculpture  being 
usually  imported  from  England.  Some  of  the  stones  are  indeed 
primitive,  being  little  more  than  solid  blocks,  ■ —  massy,  and 
scarce  shaped  into  form.  Quaint  inscriptions,  the  traditional 
death's-head  and  hourglass,  greet  you  on  every  hand.  Many  of 
the  older  inscriptions  are  illegible,  —  what  wonder,  after  more 
than  two  hundred  years'  conflict  with  the  elements  !  Is  the 
spirit  which  prompted  the  pious  Avork  of  Old  Mortality  extin- 
guished in  our  historical  institutions  1 

The  singular  juxtaposition  of  names  strikes  the  reader  of  the 
headstones  in  Copp's  Hill.  Here  repose  the  ashes  of  Mr.  John 
Milk  and  Mr.  William  Beer  ;  of  Samuel  Mower  and  Theodocia 
Hay  ;  Timothy  Gay  and  Daniel  Graves  ;  of  Elizabeth  Tout  and 
Thomas  Scoot.  Here  lie  Charity  Brown,  Elizabeth  Scarlet,  and 
Marcy  White ;  Ann  Buby  and  Emily  Stone.  The  old  familiar 
North  End  names  are  here  on  every  side.  The  Huguenot 
Sigourneys .;  the  Grays,  of  rope-making  fame  ;  the  Mountforts, 
claiming  descent  from  the  Norman  Conquest.  Edmund  Hartt, 
builder  of  the  Constitution  ;  Deacon  Moses  Grant  and  Major 
Seward  of  Revolutionary  memory,  and  a  host  of  others  who  go 
to  swell  the  ranks  of  the  unnumbered  dead. 

On  the  Charter  Street  side,  near  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
ground,  is  a  beautiful  weeping  willow,  its  foliage  drooping  grace- 


COPP'S    HILL    AND    THE    VICINITY.  207 

fully  over  the  monument  of  Joshua  Ellis.  This  willow  came 
from  the  grave  of  the  great  Corsican  at  St.  Helena,  having  heen 
brought  in  a  vessel  from  the  island. 

Interments  are  now  restricted  to  the  tombs,  and  if  we  ex- 
cept the  occasional  pilgrimage  of  a  stranger,  the  cemetery  seems 
to  be  the  common  playground  of  the  children  of  the  neighbor- 
hood. Brick  rises  on  all  sides  to  exclude  the  glorious  view 
which  once  expanded  before  the  spectator ;  only  glimpses  are 
obtained  of  the  distant  spires  and  monument  of  Charlestown, 
with  perhaps  a  hand's-breadth  here  and  there  of  the  river  and 
shipping  below. 

Acts  of  vandalism  are  recorded  with  respect  to  some  of  the 
gravestones  in  the  yard.  Those  of  Grace  Berry  and  Captain 
Daniel  Malcolm  having  served  King  George's  soldiers  for  targetr 
practice,  by  which  they  were  splintered,  and  the  inscriptions 
defticed.  The  names  on  some  of  the  old  tombs  have  been 
obliterated  and  others  substituted.  The  beautiful  coat  of  arms 
of  the  Hutchinsons  has  been  thus  desecrated.  So  says  Thomas 
Bridgman  in  his  Epitaphs.  The  remains  of  Thomas  Hutch- 
inson, father  of  the  governor,  once  rested  here.  Besides  the 
Mathers,  Andrew  and  John  Eliot,  divines  of  old  celebrity,  lie 
here. 

From  Copp's  Hill  Burgoyne  and  Clinton  witnessed  the  fight 
on  Bunker  Hill,  and  directed  the  fire  of  the  battery.  It  was  a 
shell  from  here  that  set  fire  to  Charlestown,  addin"  to  the  gran- 
deur and  horror  of  the  scene.  Clinton,  seeing  the  ranks  of  his 
veterans  reel  and  fall  back  before  the  murderous  discharges  from 
the  redoubt,  threw  himself  into  a  boat  and  crossed  to  the  aid  of 
Howe. 

The  British  shipping  took  a  prominent  part  in  this  battle, 
especially  the  Glasgow,  which  lay  in  a  position  where  she  swept 
Charlestown  Neck  with  her  guns,  thus  preventing  reinforce- 
ments passing  over  to  the  Americans,  and  harassing  their  retreat 
from  the  hill.  An  American  officer  told  Putnam  no  one  could 
cross  that  Neck  and  live;  nevertheless  it  is  stated,  on  the  au- 
thority of  Major  Russell,  that  a  number  of  Boston  school-boys 
crossed  and  recrossed  during  the  battle. 


208 


LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


THE   GLASGOW. 


The  Glasgow  was  also  one  of  the  fleet  that  brought  the  Brit- 
ish troops  to  Boston  in  1768.     The  engraving  is  from  an  original 

drawing,  and  shows  the  style  of  naval  architecture  in  the  last 

century. 

Out  of  this  tranquillity  we  can  with  difficulty  conjure  up  the 

scene  of  carnage  that  once 
raged  upon  the  hillside  yon- 
der. The  still,  starry  night 
that  preceded  the  battle,  when 
a  thousand  men,  stacking  their 
firelocks,  with  mattock  and 
spade  threw  up  the  first  ram- 
part of  the  Revolution.  Grid- 
ley,  the  veteran  engineer, 
marking  out  the  works  upon 
the  wet  turf,  with  Pomeroy, 

Prescott,  Putnam,  and  many  more  that  heard 

"  The  drum  that  beat  at  Louisburg  and  thundered  in  Quebec  !  " 

How  strangely  to  their  ears  must  have  sounded  the  cry  of  the 
British  sentinel,  "  All 's  well ! "  as  he  paced  where  we  now 
stand.  To  the  laborers  on  that  sultry  night  this  cry  was  haded 
at  every  hour  as  proof  of  their  undiscovered  tod.  So  the  de- 
fences grew,  hour  by  hour,  untd  the  morning  dawned  on  the 
eventful  day. 

In  this  battle  General  Gage's  military  reputation  was  lost. 
By  his  neglect  to  seize  and  hold  Charlestown  heights  a  battle  was 
forced  upon  him,  with  the  loss  of  British  prestige  and  twelve 
hundred  of  his  bravest  soldiers.  And  Howe,  notwithstanding 
the  bitter  experience  of  that  day,  repeated  the  same  experiment 
at  Dorchester  Heights  before  a  year  had  passed. 

It  was  once  the  custom  to  hang  the  escutcheon  of  a  deceased 
head  of  a  family  from  the  window  or  over  the  entrance  of  a 
house  from  which  a  funeral  was  to  take  place  until  it  was  over. 
The  last  instance  noted  is  that  of  Governor  Hancock's  uncle, 
Thomas  Hancock,  in  1764.  Copies  of  the  escutcheon  were 
distributed  among  the  pall-bearers,  rings  afterward,  and  gloves 


COPP'S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY.  209 

within  fifty  years.  Scarfs  were  once  given  the  mourners,  but 
this  was  prohibited,  in  1724,  by  law. 

Before  Copp's  Hill  was  built  upon  so  densely,  it  served  the 
North  End  population  as  a  place  of  promenade  and  recreation. 
The  Common  was  far  too  distant,  and  wanted  the  attraction  of 
the  beautiful  panorama  of  the  harbor  then  to  be  seen  from  this 
eminence.  The  character  of  this  quarter  of  the  town  has  since 
then  undergone  a  change,  its  residents  no  longer  claiming  the 
high  standing  once  their  due.  The  hill,  fortunately  for  its 
preservation,  is  not  in  the  line  of  the  movement  of  traffic,  and 
has  experienced  little  alteration  in  the  last  twenty-five  years. 

After  the  surrender  of  Quebec  the  North-Enders  made  an 
unexampled  bonfire  on  Copp's  Hill.  Forty-five  tar-barrels,  two 
cords  of  wood,  a  mast,  spars,  and  boards,  witli  fifty  pounds  of 
powder,  were  set  in  a  blaze,  and  must  have  cast  a  ruddy  glow 
over  the  waters  of  the  bay.  This,  with  a  similar  illumination 
on  Fort  Hill,  was  paid  for  by  the  province,  together  with  thirty- 
two  gallons  of  rum  and  much  beer  for  the  people. 

Charter  Street,  which  makes  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
cemetery,  takes  its  name  from  the  Charter  of  King  William  III. 
Under  it  Maine,  Plymouth,  and  Massachusetts  formed  ft  single 
provincial  government.     The  name  has  stood  since  1 708. 

Sir  William  Phips's  name  is  closely  identified  with  the 
street,  both  as  a  resident  and  for  having  been  the  first  governor 
under  the  new  charter.  His  residence  was  at  the  westerly  cor- 
ner of  Salem  and  Charter  Streets,  which  long  went  by  the  name 
of  Phips's  Corner.  The  house  was  of  brick,  altered  by  the 
addition  of  a  third  story  in  the  present  century,  and  was  used 
in  1830  as  an  Asylum  for  Indigent  Boys.  The  governor's  name 
is  remembered  in  Phips  Place,  near  at  hand. 

Governor  Phips's  origin  was  obscure.  An  apprentice  to  a 
ship-carpenter  in  early  youth,  he  is  naturally  found  among  his 
craftsmen  of  the  North  End.  He  received  knighthood  for  the 
recovery  of  £  300,000  of  treasure,  in  1687,  from  a  sunken 
Spanish  galleon,  near  the  Bahamas,  all  of  which  he  turned 
over  to  the  English  government,  receiving  £  1G,000  as  his 
share.     He  made  two  expeditions  against  Camula  in  1G90, — 


210  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

one  against  Quebec,  resulting  unsuccessfully,  and  another  in 
which  liis  fleet  captured  Port  Royal.  It  is  said  he  received  Ids 
appointment  through  the  influence  of  Increase  Mather,  while 
the  doctor  was  agent  for  the  colony  in  England. 

The  occasion  of  the  governor's  arrival  in  Boston,  May,  1692, 
was  one  of  great  rejoicing.  On  the  16th  he  was  escorted  from 
his  dwelling  to  the  State  House  by  the  Boston  Regiment  and 
companies  from  Charlestown,  with  the  magistrates  and  people, 
not  only  of  Boston,  but  the  neighboring  towns.  The  new 
charter  and  the  governor's  commission  were  then  read  from  the 
balcony,  according  to  custom,  and  the  old  governor,  Bradstreet, 
vacated  his  office.     A  banquet  closed  the  ceremonies. 

Dr.  Cotton  Mather  says  Phips  dreamed  when  a  poor  boy 
that  he  would  become  rich  and  build  liim  a  house  on  the  Green 
Lane,  the  ancient  name  of  Salem  Street.  He  lived  to  realize 
his  dream,  and  become  the  head  of  the  colony. 

Sir  William  was  a  man  of  ungovernable  temper.  He  assaidted 
Brenton,  the  collector  of  the  port,  and  caned  Captain  Short,  of 
the  Nonesuch  frigate.  He  was  of  large  stature  and  great  per- 
sonal strength,  which  made  these  personal  conflicts  undesirable 
to  his  »foes.  An  instance  is  given  of  his  having  acted  a  Crorn- 
wellian  part.  Having  procured,  by  a  bare  majority,  the  passage 
of  an  act  prohibiting  any  but  residents  of  the  town  they  repre- 
sented to  be  members  of  the  General  Court,  Sir  Williain  rushed 
into  the  chamber  and  drove  out  the  non-resident  representa- 
tives, who  did  not  stand  upon  the  order  of  their  going,  but  left 
the  governor  master  of  the  field.  Governor  Phips  was  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Old  Xorth  under  the  ministration  of  the  Mathers. 
Aside  from  his  impetuous  disposition,  he  is  described  as  a  man 
of  sterling  traits.  He  died  in  London  in  1695,  and  was  buried 
in  the  church  of  St.  Mary  Woolnoth,  where  a  long  epitaph 
commemorates  his  life  and  public  services. 

Hutchinson  relates  that  once  in  Sir  William's  absence  his 
wife,  whose  name  was  Mary  (William  and  Mary  were  the 
reigning  sovereigns),  was  applied  to  in  behalf  of  a  poor  woman 
who  had  been  committed  under  a  charge  of  witchcraft,  and  that 
out  of  the  goodness  of  her  heart  she  signed  a  warrant  for  the 


COPP  S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY. 


211 


woman's  discharge,  which  mandate  was  obeyed  by  the  keeper  of 
the  jail  without  question,  but  with  the  ultimate  loss  of  his  place. 

In  Charter  Street  lived  the  ancestors  of  John  Foster  Wil- 
liams, who,  in  the  Massachusetts  frigate  Protector,  of  twenty- 
six  guns,  sunk  the  English  ship  Admiral  Duff,  of  thirty  guns, 
during  the  Revolutionary  War.  In  this  action  Preble,  after- 
wards commodore,  was  a  midshipman  with  Williams,  who  died 
in  Boston  in  1814.  Foster  Street,  now  Clark,  was  intended  to 
perpetuate  the  old  family.  Paul  lievere,  the  Jidus  Achates  of 
Warren,  lived  and  died  in  a  house  in  Charter  Street  which  he 
bought  near  the  close  of  the  war  of  Independence.  It  stood  near 
Hanover  Street,  on  the  west  side,  where  lievere  Place  now  is. 

Spencer  Phips,  afterwards  lieutenant-governor,  was  origi- 
nally named  David  Bennet,  but  took  the  name  of  his  Uncle 
Phips  when  adopted  by  him.  He  also  lived  in  Sir  William's 
house.  Spencer  Phips  was  in  office  while  William  Shirley 
was  governor,  and  was  of  course  overshadowed  by  that  remark- 
able man.  Phips  was  succeeded  by  Hutchinson  at  his  death 
in  1757. 

Hull  Street  bounds  the  cemetery  on  the  south.  It  is  named 
for  John  Hull,  through  whose  pasture  it  was  laid  out,  and  was 
conveyed  to  the  town  by  Judge  Samuel  Sewall  and  wife,  on 
the  express  condition  that  it  should  always  bear  that  name. 

John  Hull,  the  primitive  owner  of  this  field,  is  famed  as  the 
coiner  of  the  first 
money  in  New  Eng- 
land. The  scarcity 
of  silver  in  the  col- 
ony for  a  circulating 
medium  seems  to 
have  rendered  the 
step  necessary.  The 
colonists  being  pur- 
chasers as  yet,  the  bullion  flowed  out  of  the  country. 

In  the  "History  and  Antiquities  of  Boston"  it  is  remarked  :  — ■ 

"  Tt  was  no  small  stretch  of  authority  for  a  Colony  or  a  Prcn  ince 
to  presume  to  coin  money  ;  but  this  Colony  was  now  very  peculiarly 


PINE-TREE   3HILLINO. 


212 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


situated,  and  its  presumption  in  taking  this  step  was  greatly  favored 
by  the  recent  state  of  affairs  in  the  mother  country." 

The  mint  was  established  at  John  Hull,  the  silversmith's, 
house,  and  he  and  his  coadjutor,  Robert  Sanderson,  took  oath 
that  all  the  money  coined  by  them  should  "  be  of  the  just  alloy 
of  the  English  cojne  ;  that  every  shilling  should  be  of  due 
weight,  namely,  three  penny  troj  weight,  and  all  other  pieces 

proportionally,  so  neere  as 
they  could."  This  was,  in 
1652,  the  origin  of  the  old 
pine  -  tree  shilling.  Hull's 
house  was  the  same  formerly 
owned  by  Eev.  John  Cotton. 
In  1 G54  an  order  of  the  Gen- 
eral Court  prohibited  the  transportation  out  of  its  jurisdiction 
of  more  than  twenty  shillings  "  for  necessary  expenses "  by 
any  person.  Searchers  were  appointed  "  to  examine  all  packs, 
persons,  trunks,  chests,  boxes  or  the  like."  The  penalty  was 
the  seizure  of  the  whole  estate  of  the  offender. 

Hull  began  poor,  and  ended  rich,  many  of  his  new  shillings 
finding  their  way  into  his  own 
strong-box.  He  was  a  very  worthy 
man,  and  a  member  of  the  First 
Church  under  Eev.  John  Wilson. 
He  married  Judith,  the  daughter 
of  Edmund  Quincy,  ancestor  of 
that  family  in  New  England.  From  her  is  named  that  much- 
dreaded  point  of  Narragansett  Bay,  where  Neptune  exacts  his 
tribute  from  voyagers  through  the  Sound.  It  is  said,  moreover, 
that  Hannah  Hull,  his  daughter,  received  for  her  wedding  por- 
tion .her  weight  in  pine-tree  shillings  when  she  married  Judge 
Sewall,  —  a  statement  probably  originating  in  an  ingenious  com- 
putation of  the  weight  of  the  sum  she  actually  received.  "  From 
this  marriage,"  remarks  Quincy,  "  has  sprung  the  eminent  family 
of  the  Se walls,  which  has  given  three  chief  justices  to  Massa- 
chusetts and  one  to  Canada,  and  has  been  distinguished  in 
every  generation  by  the  talents  and  virtues  of  its  members." 


COPPS    HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY. 


213 


Salem  Street  was,  in  1708,  from  Mr.  Phips's  corner  in 
Charter  Street  to  Prince  Street ;  from  thence  to  Hanover  it  was 
Back  Street. 

Christ  Church  spire  has  long  dominated  over  this  locality, 
and  served  as  a  landmark  for  vessels  entering  the  harbor.  It  is 
the  oldest  church  in  Boston  standing  on  its  original  ground, 
having  been  erected  in  1723,  —  six  years  before  the  Old  South. 
Of  the  fifteen  churches  built  previous  to  1750,  only  seven 
occupy  their  original  sites  ;  the  others  may  be  found  in  the 
new  city  which  has  sprung  up  as  if  by  magic  in  the  old  bed 
of  Charles  River. 

This  was  the  second  Episcopal  Church  erected  in  the  town. 
It  has  been  in  its  day  considered  one  of  the  chief  architectural 
ornaments  of  the  North  End.  The  body  of  the  church  has  the 
plain  monotonous  style  peculiar  to  all  the  old  houses  of  wor- 
ship, but  the 
steeple  — ■  the 
design  of 
Charles  Bul- 
finch  —  beau- 
tifies the  whole 
structure.  The 
old  steeple  was 
blown  down  in 
the  great  gale 
of  1801,  fall- 
ing upon  an 
old  wooden 
building  at  the 
corner  of  Tiles- 
ton  Street, 
through  which 
it  crashed,  to 
the  consterna- 
tion of  the 
tenants,  who, 
however,      es- 


CHRIST  CHURCH. 
1723. 


214  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

capecl  injury.     In  rebuilding,  the  height  was  shortened  about 

sixteen    feet    by  Joseph    Tucker,    the 

builder.     Over  the  entrance  is  a  plain 

tablet  with  the  name  and  date  of  the 

house. 

It  is  generally  known  that  from  this  steeple  —  which  was 
visible  far  and  near  —  warning  was  given  of  the  intended 
march  to  Lexington  and  Concord.  Paul  Kevere's  narrative 
gives  a  relation  of  the  method  :  — ■ 

"On  Tuesday  evening,  the  18th  of  April,  1775,  it  was  observed 
that  a  number  of  soldiers  were  marching  towards  Boston  Common. 
About  ten  o'clock  Dr.  Warren  sent  in  great  haste  for  me,  and  begged 
that  I  would  immediately  set  off  for  Lexington,  where  were  Hancock 
and  Adams,  and  acquaint  them  of  the  movement,  and  that  it  was 
thought  they  were  the  objects.  The  Sunday  before,  by  desire  of 
Dr.  Warren,  I  had  been  to  Lexington  to  see  Hancock  and  Adams, 
who  were  at  Rev.  Mr.  Clark's. 

"  I  returned  at  night,  through  Charlestown.  There  I  agreed  with 
a;  Colonel  Conant  and  some  other  gentlemen  that  if  the  British  went 
out  by  water  we  would  show  two  lanterns  in  the  North  Church 
steeple,  and  if  by  land,  one,  as  a  signal  ;  for  we  were  apprehensive  it 
would  be  difficult  to  cross  Charles  River,  or  get  over  Boston  Neck. 
I  left  Dr.  Warren,  called' upon  a  friend,  and  desired  him  to  make  the 
signals.  I  then  went  home,  took  my  boots  and  surtout,  went  to  the 
north  part  of  the  town,  where  I  had  kept  a  boat.  Two  friends  rowed 
me  across  Charles  River,  a  little  to  the  eastward,  where  the  Somerset 
lay.  It  was  then  young  flood  ;  the  ship  was  winding,  and  the  moon 
was  rising.  They  landed  me  on  the  Charlestown  side.  When  I  got 
into  town,  I  met  Colonel  Conant  and  several  others.  They  said  they 
had  seen  our  signals." 

Within  the  steeple  are  hung  a  chime  of  bells,  placed  there 
in  1 744,  —  the  first  whose  cadences  gladdened  the  town. 

"Low  at  times  and  loud  at  times, 
And  changing  like  a  poet's  rhymes, 
Rang  the  beautiful  wild  chimes." 

These  bells  Avere  from  the  famous  West  of  England  foundry 
of  Abel  Rudhall,  of  Gloucester,  whose  bells  have  been  heard 
in  many  a  town  and  hamlet  of  "  Merrie  England."  Each  had 
an  inscription  containing  its  own  and  much  contemporary  his- 
tory, as  follows  :  — 


COPP'S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY.  215 

FIRST   BELL. 

"  This  peal  of  eight  bells  is  the  gift  of  a  number  of  generous  persons  to  Christ 
Church,  in  Boston,  N.  E.,  Anno  1744.     A.  R." 

SECOND    BELL. 

"This  Church  was  founded  in  the  year  1723.    Timothy  Cutler,  D.  D.,  the 
first  Rector.     A.  R.    1723." 

THIRD   BELL. 

"We  are  the  first  ring  of  bells  cast  for  the  British  Empire  in  North  America. 
A.  R.     1744." 

FOURTH   BELL. 

"  God  preserve  the  Church  of  England.     1744." 

FIFTH   BELL. 

"William  Shirley,  Esq.,  Governor  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay,  in  New  Eng- 
land.    Anno  1744." 

SIXTH    BELL. 

"  The  subscription  for  these  bells  was  begun  by  John  Hammock  and  Robert 
Temple,  Church  Wardens,  Anno  1743  ;  completed  by  Robert  Jenkins  and 
John  Gould,  Church  Wardens,  Anno  1744." 

SEVENTH    BELL. 

"  Since  generosity  has  opened  our  mouths,  our  tongues  shall  ring  aloud  its 
praise.      1744." 

EIGHTH    BELL. 

"Abel  Rudhall,  of  Gloucester,  cast  us  all,  Anno  1744." 

The  chimes  or  "  ring  of  hells,"  were  ohtained  in  England  by 
Dr.  Cutler,  and  were  consecrated  there.  They  Avere  invested 
with  the  power  to  dispel  evil  spirits,  —  according  to  popular 
belief.  The  same  bells  still  hang  in  the  belfry.  Their  carillon, 
vibrating  harmony  on  the  air  of  a  quiet  Sabbath,  summons  the 
third  generation  for  whom  they  have  proclaimed  "  Glory  to  God 
in  the  highest,  and  on  earth  peace,  good-will  toward  men." 

The  chandeliers  used  formerly  in  the  church  were  given  by 
that  Captain  Gruchy  we  visited  not  long  since.  Mrs.  Crocker's 
relation  is,  that  they  were  taken  from  a  Spanish  vessel  by  one 
of  Gruchy's  privateers,  and  found  their  way  to  a  Protestant 
Church  instead  of  a  Catholic  Cathedral,  as  was  intended.  Dr. 
Cutler,  the  first  rector,  lived  on  the  corner  of  TilestOB  and 
Salem  Streets,  in  close  proximity  to  the  church. 

The  height  of  tower  and  steeple  is  175  feet,  and  the  aggregate 
weight  of  the  bells  7,272  pounds;  the  smallest  weighing  620 


216  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

pounds,  the  largest  1,545.  General  Gage,  it  is  said,  witnessed 
from  Christ  Church  steeple  the  burning  of  Charlestown  and 
battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 

In  this  church  is  the  first  monument  ever  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Washington  in  our  country.  Dr.  Byles,  the  rector, 
left  Boston  in  1775,  and  went  to  St.  Johns,  New  Brunswick, 
where  he  was  settled  as  rector  and  cure  of  the  church  of  that 
place.  This  Dr.  Byles  was  the  son  of  Rev.  Mather  Byles,  the 
punning  parson  of  Hollis  Street.  There  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  a  settled  pastor  after  this  until  1778. 

The  interior  has  been  considerably  changed  by  alterations. 
Formerly  there  was  a  centre  aisle,  now  closed,  as  is  also  the 
large  altar  window.  The  chancel  is  decorated  with  paintings 
creditably  executed  by  a  Boston  artist.  The  walls  of  the  church 
are  of  great  strength,  being  two  feet  and  a  half  thick  ;  the 
brick  are  laid  in  the  style  of  the  last  century,  in  what  is  termed 
the  English  Bond,  of  which  but  a  few  specimens  remain  in 
Boston. 

Like  many  of  the  old  Boston  churches,  this  has  its  vaults 
underneath  for  the  reception  of  the  dead,  and  with  them,  of 
course,  its  legendary  lore.     In  Shaw  it  is  recorded  that 

"  In  1812,  while  the  workmen  were  employed  building  tombs,  one 
of  them  found  the  earth  so  loose  that  he  settled  his  bar  into  it  the 
whole  length  with  a  single  effort.  The  superintendent  directed  him 
to  proceed  till  he  found  solid  earth.  About  six  feet  below  the  bot- 
tom of  the  cellar  he  found  a  coffin  covered  with  a  coarse  linen  cloth 
sized  with  gum,  which,  on  boiling,  became  white,  and  the  texture  as 
firm  as  if  it  had  recently  been  woven.  Within  this  coffin  was  another, 
protected  from,  the  air  in  a  similar  manner,  and  the  furniture  was 
not  in  the  least  injured  by  time.  The  flesh  was  sound,  and  some- 
what resembling  that  of  an  Egyptian  mummy.  The  skin,  when 
cut,  resembled  leather.  The  sprigs  of  evergreen,  deposited  in  the 
coffin,  resembled  the  broad-leaved  myrtle  ;  the  stem  was  elastic  ;  the 
leaves  fresh  and  apparently  in  a  state  of  vegetation.  From  the  in- 
scription it  was  found  to  be  the  body  of  a  Mr.  Thomas,  a  native  of 
New  England,  who  died  in  Bermuda.  Some  of  his  family  were 
among  the  founders  of  Christ  Church.  His  remains,  when  discov- 
ered, had  been  entombed  about  eighty  years." 


COPP'S   HILL  AND   THE  VICINITY.  217 

Major  Pitcairn's  remains  were  interred  under  this  church, 
and  thereby  hangs  another  legend.  After  being  twice  wounded, 
Pitcairn  rallied  his  men  for  a  third  assault,  and  received  his 
death- wound  while  entering  the  redoubt,  falling  into  the  arms 
of  his  own  son,  who  bore  him  to  the  boat.  He  was  brought 
across  the  river  and  taken  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Stoddard,  boat- 
builder,  near  the  ferry,  where  he  bled  to  death  in  a  short  time. 

Pitcairn  was  a  large,  portly  man,  and  so  was  Lieutenant  Shea, 
whose  remains  were  also  deposited  under  the  church.  The  lat- 
ter died  of  fever ;  and  when,  some  time  after  the  events  of  the 
Revolution,  the  body  of  Pitcairn  was  sent  for  by  his  relatives 
in  England,  it  is  said  that  of  Lieutenant  Shea  was  forwarded 
by  mistake.  The  sexton  was  at  a  loss  to  identify  the  remains, 
but  the  presence  of  a  large  blistering  plaster  on  the  head  of  the 
body  he  sent  to  England  seems  to  point  to  a  blunder  on  his 
part.  It  has  been  questioned  whether  the  monument  in  West- 
minster Abbey  to  Pitcairn  commemorates  his  bravery  and  death 
on  the  battle-field,  or  that  of  a  man  who  died  from  inflamma- 
tion of  the  brain  in  his  bed. 

Pitcairn  will  always  be  remembered  as  the  leader  of  the  ad- 
vance-guard who  fired  on  the  provincials  at  Lexington,  and 
began  the  great  drama  of  the  Revolution.  He  always  main- 
tained that  the  minute-men  fired  first,  which  those  present  on 
the  American  side  warmly  disputed.  This  circumstance  has 
associated  Pitcairn's  name  with  undeserved  obloquy,  for  he  was 
a  brave  officer  and  a  kind-hearted  man.  Of  all  the  P>ritish 
officers  in  Boston,  he  alone,  it  is  said,  dealt  justly  and  impar- 
tially by  the  townspeople,  in  their  disputes  with  the  troops. 
His  men  were  warmly  attached  to  him,  and  declared  they  had 
lost  a  father  when  he  fell.  Gage  sent  his  own  physician  to 
attend  him.  The  bullet  which  laid  the  gallant  marine  low  was 
fired  by  a  negro  soldier  from  Salem.  The  regiment  which  ho 
commanded  arrived  from  England  in  the  latter  part  of  Decem- 
ber, 1774,  in  the  Asia,  Boyne,  and  Somerset. 

Rev.  William  Montague,  rector  of  Christ  Church,  was  the 
person  to  whom  Arthur  Savage  gave  the  ball  which  killed  War- 
ren at  Bunker  Hill.  The  identity  of  this  ball  has  been  disputed 
10 


218  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

by  some  of  the  martyr's  descendants,  on  the  ground  that  it  was 
said  to  have  been  taken  from  the  body,  while  Warren  received 
his  death  from  a  ball  in  the  head.  The  controversy  was  main- 
tained with  considerable  warmth  on  both  sides,  the  general 
opinion  favoring  the  authenticity  of  the  fatal  bullet.  Arthur 
Savage  was  an  officer  of  the  customs  in  Boston,  and  his  state- 
ment that  he  took  the  piece  of  lead  from  Warren's  body  is 
worthy  of  belief.  Mr.  Montague  is  said  to  have  been  the 
first  American  Episcopal  clergyman  ordained  in  America  who 
preached  in  an  English  pulpit.  The  English  officers  billeted 
in  this  quarter  of  the  town  attended  Christ  Church. 

Tileston  Street  is  the  Love  Lane  of  our  ancestors,  not  from 
the  Hymeneal  Deity,  —  else  we  may  believe  it  would  have  been 
the  favorite  resort  of  the  North  End  damsels  and  their  love- 
lorn swains.  It  was  thus  named  from  the  Love  family,  who 
owned  most  of  the  street.  Mrs.  Susannah  Love  sold  the  ground 
on  which  the  Eliot  School  was  built,  and  the  name  of  the  lane 
was  changed  about  1820,  for  good  old  Master  John  Tileston  of 
that  school.  Master  Tileston  presided  over  the  school  for  two 
thirds  of  a  century,  and  after  he  became  superannuated  his  salary 
was  continued  ;  the  only  instance  of  the  kind  in  the  history  of 
the  town  or  city.  He  lived  at  the  westerly  corner  of  Margaret 
and  Prince  Streets.  Mather  Byles  is  said  to  have  first  seen  the 
light  in  Tileston  Street. 

The  first  Grammar  School  in  this  part  of  the  town  was  erected 
in  Bennet  Street  in  1 7 1 3,  and  was  called  the  Xorth  Latin  School. 
Recompense  Wadsworth  was  the  first  master.  A  writing-school 
was  built  on  the  same  lot,  on  Love  Lane,  in  1718  ;  and  in  17-11, 
when  an  enumeration  was  made,  this  school  had  more  pupils 
than  all  the  others  combined.  Up  to  1800  there  were  but 
seven  schools  in  the  town,  and  only  nine  when  Boston  became 
a  city.  Bennet  Street  was  for  some  time  distinguished  as  Xorth 
Latin  School  Street.  The  old  schools  were  knoAvn  later  as  the 
North  Grammar  and  Xorth  Writing,  the  subsequent  name  of 
Eliot  being  given  to  honor  the  memory  of  the  pastors  of  the 
Old  Xorth  Church.  Since  the  city  government  went  into  opera- 
tion it  seems  to  have  passed  into  a  custom  to  name  the  schools 


COPP'S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY.  219 

for  the  mayors.  The  old  school-house  stood  by  the  side  of  the 
present  one,  and  was  the  third  in  the  town.  Captain  Thomas 
Hutchinson,  father  of  the  too-celebrated  lieutenant-governor, 
built  the  house  and  gave  it  to  the  town.  Three  or  four  edifices 
have  succeeded  the  original,  the  present  structure  having  been 
dedicated  on  Forefather's  Day,  1859.  Mather  Byles,  Edward 
Everett,  and  Dr.  Jenks  are  among  the  distinguished  pupils  of 
the  school.  Edward  Everett  lived,  in  1802,  in  Proctor's  Lane, 
now  the  easterly  part  of  Richmond  Street,  and  in  1804  removed 
to  Richmond  Street.  His  mother  afterwards  removed  to  New- 
bury, now  Washington  Street,  to  a  house  nearly  opposite  the 
head  of  Essex  Street. 

The  modern  school  acquired  some  notoriety  in  1859,  from  a 
rebellion  of  the  Catholic  pupils  against  the  reading  of  the  Ten 
Commandments,  which  caused  no  little  excitement  in  the  old 
North  End.  Various  attempts  have  been  made  from  time  to 
time  to  prohibit  the  reading  of  the  Scriptures  in  the  public 
schools,  one  of  which  gave  rise  to  the  following  mot  of  Rufus 
Choate  :  "  What !  banish  the  Bible  from  schools  !  Never,  while 
there  is  a  piece  of  Plymouth  Rock  left  large  enough  to  make  a 
gun-flint  of !  " 

At  Prince  Street  we  reach  the  old  line  of  division  between 
Salem  Street  proper  and  Back  Street.  The  origin  of  Salem  and 
Lynn  Streets  are  obvious.  Back  Street  was  thus  distinguished 
from  Fore,  through  which  our  readers  have  followed  us  in  a 
former  chapter.  Prince,  named  from  some  scion  of  royalty,  has 
outlived  King  and  Queen.  This  street  was  originally  from  Han- 
over (Middle)  to  the  sea,  but  now  reaches  into  North  Square, 
its  easterly  terminus.  The  portion  between  Salem  and  Hanover 
was  anciently  known  as  Black  Horse  Lane,  from  an  old  tavern 
on  the  corner  of  Back  Street.  This  tavern,  corrupted  into 
Black-us-inn,  was  noted  as  a  place  of  refuge  and  concealment 
for  deserters  from  Burgoyne's  army  at  Cambridge.  It  was  of 
considerable  antiquity,  the  lane  being  so  called  before  1700. 
The  royal  regulars  had  barracks  on  the  corner  of  Prince  and 
Salem  Streets  in  1775-7G. 

Salem  Church,  at  the  corner  of  North  Benuet  and  Salem 


220  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Streets,  was  organized  in  1827.  Its  formation  was  coeval  with 
the  church  in  Pine  Street,  and  the  dedication  occurred  January 
1,  1828,  at  which  time  Rev.  Justin  Edwards,  I).  D.,  was  in- 
stalled. Dr.  George  W.  Blagden,  who  has  recently  resigned  the 
pastorate  of  the  Old  South,  was  settled  here.  The  building 
has  a  simple,  substantial  look,  but  may  be  classed  with  those 
of  no  special  attractive  features. 

Though  Ave  would  fain  linger  in  the  old  North  End,  other 
sections  claim  our  attention.  In  it  the  spirit  of  resistance  to 
British  tyranny  was  strongly  developed,  and  it  contained  less 
of  the  tory  element  than  some  other  quarters  of  the  town. 
The  sturdy  mechanics  of  the  North  End  were  ever  ready  to  act 
in  the  cause  of  liberty,  no  matter  what  the  sacrifice  might  be. 
Many  of  her  sons  gained  a  noble  reputation  in  the  wars  of  the 
republic.  There  was  that  old  seadion,  John  Manly,  who  held  the 
first  naval  commission  issued  by  Washington,  in  1 775.  He  t<  >ok, 
in  the  Lee,  the  dangerous  cruising-ground  of  Boston  Bay.  and 
captured,  in  November,  the  British  ordnance  brig  Nancy,  a  prize 
so  important  to  the  Continental  army  that  the  camps  were  wild 
with  joy.  Among  other  pieces  taken  was  a  heavy  brass  mortar, 
which  Old  Put  mounted  with  a  bottle  of  rum  in  his  hand,  while 
Mifflin  christened  it  the  "  Congress."  The  Lee  made  other  im- 
portant captures;  and  in  1776  Manly  was  given  command  of 
the  Hancock  frigate,  in  which  he  captured  the  Fox,  British 
man-of-war,  but  was  himself  taken  prisoner  by  the  Rainbow,  a 
much  heavier  vessel  than  his  own.  He  commanded  afterwards 
the  Jason  and  Hague,  in  both  of  which  he  gave  evidence  that 
he  was  a  worthy  comrade  of  Paul  Jones.  Manly  was  a  bluff  but 
indiscreet  seaman,  and  for  some  irregularity  was  court-martialled. 
He  died  in  1793,  at  his  house  in  Charter  Street. 

Another  naval  hero,  still  more  renowned,  was  Commodore 
Samuel  Tucker  of  the  old  Continental  navy,  who  lived  in  a 
three-story  brick  building  on  the  north  side  of  Fleet  Street, 
where  now  stands  a  brick  stable. 

His  first  cruise  was  in  1776,  with  a  commission  signed  by 
S.imuel  Adams  in  his  pocket,  and  a  pine-tree  flag  at  his  peak, 
made  by  the  hands  of  his  wife.     This  intrepid  sador  took  from 


COPIES    HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY.  221 

the  enemy  during  the  war  sixty-two  sail  of  vessels,  more  than 
six  hundred  cannon,  and  three  thousand  prisoners,  and  when 
at  length  compelled  to  surrender  the  old  Boston  frigate,  which 
he  then  commanded,  to  the  British  squadron  at  Charleston,  he 
kept  his  flag  flying  until  Admiral  Arbuthnot  sent  him  a  special 
order  to  lower  it.  Tucker's  reply  was,  "  I  do  not  think  much 
of  striking  my  flag  to  your  present  force  ;  but  I  have  struck 
more  of  your  flags  than  are  now  flying  in  this  harbor." 

Commodore  Tucker  carried  John  Adams  to  Bordeaux  in  1778, 
"  through  the  six-and-twenty  misfortunes  of  Harlequin."  Dur- 
ing this  voyage  the  ship  was  struck  by  lightning,  and  the  Com- 
modore narrowly  escaped  death  from  the  fragments  of  a  falling 
spar.  His  services,  which  it  is  believed  were  unsurpassed  by 
those  of  any  of  his  comrades  of  the  old  navy,  met  with  tardy 
requital  from  the  nation.  According  to  his  biographer,  Mr. 
Sheppard,  he  retired  in  1793  to  a  farm  in  Bristol,  Maine. 
John  Adams,  in  speaking  of  a  visit  from  Tucker,  says,  "  "When 
I  see  or  hear  of  or  from  one  of  these  old  Men,  whether  in 
civil,  political,  military,  or  naval  service,  my  heart  feels." 

The  brave  Lieutenant  James  Sigouruey,  who  commanded  the 
armed  schooner  Asp,  and  fell  heroically  fighting  in  an  engage- 
ment with  a  British  flotilla  in  Chesapeake  Bay  in  1812,  —  Cap- 
tain Samuel  Newman,  lieutenant  in  Craft's  Artillery  in  the  early 
part  of  the  Revolution;  serving  in  the  navy  under  Nicholson  in 
the  Deane  in  1782  ;  killed  in  St.  Clair's  battle  with  the  Miami 
Indians,  —  Colonel  Josiah  Snelling,  fighting  against  the  Indians 
and  distinguished  at  Tippecanoe  ;  afterwards  at  .York,  Platts- 
burg,  and  other  fields  ;  finally  colonel  of  the  5th  United  States 
infantry,  and  giving  his  name  to  Fort  Snelling,  —  Colonel  John 
Mountfort,  brevetted  for  gallantry  at  Plattsburg,  and  distin- 
guished in  the  Florida  war,  —  Captain  Samuel  Armstrong,  a  sol- 
dier of  1812,  — and  Lieutenant  Robert  Keith,  who  served  under 
Macomb  at  Plattsburg ;  all  lived  in  the  North  End. 

Next  north  of  Christ  Church  was  a  large  brick  building,  end 
to  the  street,  occupied  more  than  fifty  years  ago  as  a  type  and 
stereotype  foundry  ;  a  part  of  the  site  next  the  church  was 
afterwards  used  for  an  academy.     The  north  corner  of  Tileston, 


222  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

at  its  junction  with  Hanover  Street,  was  the  home  of  Professor 
Henry  J.  Ripley,  of  the  Newton  Theological  Institute. 

At  the  northerly  corner  of  Sheaffe  and  Salem  Streets  was  the 
residence  of  Dr.  Samuel  Stillman,  the  well-known  pastor  of  the 
First  Baptist  Church  from  17G5  to  his  death  in  1807.  From 
him  Stillman  Street  takes  its  name.  He  preached  eloquently 
in  the  cause  of  liberty  in  his  house  of  worship  in  the  rear  of 
Salem,  near  Stillman  Street.  This  church,  once  cowering  under 
the  lash  of  bigotry,  seeking  to  hide  itself  in  an  obscure  corner 
of  the  town,  is  now  translated  to  the  highest  eminence  in  the 
city,  and  towers  majestically  over  the  neighboring  steeples. 

The  First  Baptist  Church,  like  the  Episcopal,  had  to  struggle 
against  the  determination  of  the  magistrates,  backed  by  a  ma- 
jority of  the  people,  to  permit  no  other  church  than  their  own 
to  obtain  a  foothold  in  their  midst.  A  few  individuals  consti- 
tuted the  church  in  Charlestown  in  May,  1665,  but  were  driven 
by  persecution  to  a  private  dwelling  on  Xoddle's  Island.  They 
erected  their  church  in  Boston  without  exciting  the  suspicion 
of  the  authorities,  until  its  dedication  in  February,  1679.  This 
act  of  contumacy  was  summarily  dealt  with.  The  church  doors 
were  nailed  up,  and  the  following  notice  posted  upon  them  :  — 

"  All  persons  are  to  take  notice,  that  by  order  of  the  court,  the 
doors  of  this  house  are  shut  up,  and  that  they  are  inhibited  to  hold 
any  meeting,  or  to  open  the  doors  thereof,  without  license  from  au- 
thority, till  the  General  Court  take  further  order,  as  they  will 
answer  the  contrary  at  their  peril. 

"Dated  at  Boston  8th  March  1680,  Edward  Rawson  Secretary." 

The  first  house  was  erected  on  the  banks  of  the  Mill  Pond, 
on  the  north  side  of  Stillman  Street,  between  Salem  and  Pond 
(now  Endicott)  Streets.  This  house  was  replaced  by  a  larger 
one,  also  of  wood,  in  1771,  and  abandoned  in  1829,  when  the 
society  took  possession  of  the  brick  budding  now  standing  at 
the  corner  of  Hanover  and  Union  Streets.  This  was  in  turn 
vacated  in  1858  for  the  edifice  in  Somerset  Street. 

In  Baldwin  Place  —  since  become  the  Home  of  Little  "Wan- 
derers —  is  the  house  of  the  Second  Baptist  Church.  This  so 
ciety  organized  in  1743,  and  held  their  first  services  at  the  house 


COPP'S   HILL   AND   THE   VICINITY.  223 

of  James  Bownd  in  Sheaffe  Street,  near  Copp's  Hill,  removing 
later  to  Proctor's  School-house,  until  March,  1746,  when  they 
took  possession  of  their  new  building  upon  the  spot  first  men- 
tioned. The  first  house  was  of  wood,  and  quite  small,  having 
near  the  head  of  the  broad  aisle  a  basin  for  baptismal  purposes. 
It  was  superseded,  in  1810,  by  the  present  brick  structure. 

In  Salem  Street  was  the  old  printing-office  of  Zachariah 
Fowle,  —  first  the  master  and  then  the  partner  of  Isaiah  Thomas, 
—  in  which  was  printed  the  old  Massachusetts  Spy  in  1770, 
until  Thomas  dissolved  his  connection  with  Fowle  and  opened 
his  office  in  School  Street,  near  the  Latin  School.  Thomas, 
whose  paper  was  a  high  organ  of  liberty,  was  ordered  to  appear 
once  before  Governor  Hutchinson  for  a  publication  reflecting  on 
the  executive,  but  refused  to  go.  He  removed  his  types,  press, 
etc.,  to  Worcester  a  few  days  before  the  battle  of  Lexington. 
This  was  the  origin  of  the  Worcester  Spy.  Later  he  opened  a 
bookstore  at  45  Newbury  Street,  under  the  name  of  Thomas  and 
Andrews,  but  did  not  reside  in  Boston.  Oliver  Ditson  &  Co. 
now  occupy  the  spot. 

Many  old  buildings  still  remain  in  Salem,  Prince,  Charter, 
and  the  neighboring  streets.  Over  the  apothecary's  door,  at  the 
corner  of  Salem  and  Prince  Streets,  is  an  antique  head  of  ^Es- 
culapius,  or  some  follower  of  the  curative  art,  which  is  the 
oldest  sign  now  known  in  the  North  End.  Many  years  ago  it 
stood  at  the  edge  of  the  sidewalk  affixed  to  a  post,  but,  ob- 
structing the  way,  it  was  removed.  This  is  believed  to  be  the 
oldest  apothecary's  stand  in  Boston  now  used  for  that  purpose. 
Robert  Fennelly  was  the  ancient  dispenser  of  pdls  and  purga- 
tives on  this  corner. 

In  the  slums  of  the  North  End  originated  the  draft  riot  of 
18G3.  The  officers  who  attempted  to  serve  the  notices  in 
Prince  Street  were  cruelly  beaten,  and  the  mob,  gathering 
courage  from  its  triumph  over  a  handful  of  police,  reinforced 
from  the  purlieus  of  Endicott,  Charlestown,  and  neighboring 
streets,  made  an  attempt  to  seize  the  cannon  kept  at  the  gun- 
Louse  in  Cooper  Street,  which  was  held  by  a  Little  band  of 
regulars  from  Fort  Warren.   The  rioters  had  killed  and  wounded 


224  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

several  of  the  garrison,  and  had  nearly  succeeded  in  demolish- 
ing the  doors,  when  the  guns  were  discharged  into  the  moh  with 
fatal  effect.  After  withstanding  for  a  few  momer.ts  the  fusil- 
lade from  the  small  arms  of  the  soldiers,  the  crowd  gave  way, 
moving  towards  Dock  Square,  where  they  expected  to  secure  a 
supply  of  weapons  hy  breaking  open  the  store  of  William  Ueed 
and  other  dealers  in  arms  in  that  vicinity.  Eight  of  the  rioters 
Avere  known  to  have  been  killed,  but  those  who  fell  Avere  re- 
moved by  their  friends,  and  no  authentic  data  can  be  given. 

Traces  of  this  afl'air  may  yet  be  seen  in  the  dwelling  opposite 
the  gun-house,  the  brick  walls  of  which  were  scarred  by  the 
discharge  of  grape  at  point-blank  distance. 


THE   OLD   SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  225 


CHAPTEE    VIII. 

THE    OLD    SOUTH    AXD    PROVINCE    HOUSE. 

Marlborough  Street.  —  Governor  Winthrop .  —  Old  South.  —  Warren's  Ora- 
tions. —  Tea-Party  Meeting.  —  British  Occupation.  —  Phillis  Wheatley.  — 
Spring  Lane.  —  Heart  and  Crown.  —  Boston  Evening  Post.  —Province 
House.  —  Samuel  Shute.  —  William  Burnet. — William  Shirley.  —  Thomas 
Pownall.  —  Francis  Bernard.  —  General  Gage.  —  Lexington  Expedition.  — 
Sir  William  Howe.  —  Council  of  War.  —  Court  Dress  and  Manners.  — 
Governor  Strong.  —  Blue  Bell  and  Indian  Queen.  —  Lieutenant-Governor 
Cushing.  — Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.  — Mayor  Quincy. 

THAT  part  of  Washington  Street  lying  between  School  and 
Summer  Streets  was,  in  1 708,  named  Marlborough  Street, 
from  the  great  duke  whom  Thackeray  irreverently  calls  Jack 
Churchill, — the  man  of  Blenheim,  Eamillies,  Oudenarde,  and 
Malplaquet.     The  Marlboro  Hotel  still  perpetuates  the  name. 

As  we  stand  at  the  south  corner  of  School  Street  at  its  union 
with  "Washington,  a  collection  of  old  buildings  faces  us  extend- 
ing from  the  yard  of  the  church  nearly  to  Spring  Lane.  This, 
together  with  the  church  property,  was  a  part  of  the  estate  of 
one  of  the  greatest  men  among  the  early  colonists,  John  AVin- 
throp.  The  house  of  the  first  governor  of  this  band  of  Puritans 
stood  nearly  opposite  to  us.  It  was  of  wood,  the  frame  being 
removed  from  Cambridge,  or  Newtown  as  the  early  settlers  then 
called  it.  This  removal  was  the  cause  of  a  misunderstandine 
between  the  governor  and  the  deputy,  Dudley,  but  matters 
were  accommodated  to  the  content  of  both  parties.  In  the 
Introduction  some  account  is  given  of  the  character  of  Win- 
throp's  habitation,  which  remained  standing  nearly  a  century  and 
a  half,  until  demolished  by  the  British  soldiery  in  177-").  So 
the  roof  that  sheltered  Winthrop  went  to  light  (he  mess-fires 
of  his  Majesty's  troops,  or  to  diffuse  warmth  through  the  apart- 
ments of  Gage  or  Howe  in  the  Province  House. 

The  life  of  Winthrop  is  the  history  of  the  Colony.  It  ap- 
10*  o 


226  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

pears  in  connection  with  its  affairs,  or  the  hiographies  of  his 
contemporaries.  Under  his  rule  church  and  stajie  were  one ; 
and  the  idea  of  tolerating  any  belief  but  their  own  was  repug- 
nant to  the  practice,  whatever  may  have  been  the  theory,  of  the 
then  colonists.  Winthrop  was  one  of  the  first  selectmen  of 
Boston,  and  more  than  any  other  moulded  its  government. 
The  remarkable  affair  of  Anne  Hutchinson,  in  which  so  many 
persons  of  importance  were  participants,  shook  to  its  centre  the 
social  and  religious  fabric  Winthrop  had  assisted  to  raise,  and 
left  him  at  variance  with  Sir  Henry  Yane,  next  to  himself  the 
most  considerable  man  in  the  infant  colony.  His  rule  was  iron 
towards  all  who  professed  any  but  the  orthodox  faith,  until  a 
short  time  before  his  death,  when,  it  is  said,  he  refused  to  sign 
an  order  for  the  banishment  of  some  dissenting  person,  saying  to 
Dudley  that  he  had  done  too  much  of  that  work  already.  The 
Pequot  war,  begun  while  Vane  was  governor,  ended  under 
Winthrop.  So  far  as  the  neighboring  Indians  were  concerned, 
the  governor  maintained  peace  by  a  firm  yet  conciliatory  policy. 
The  chiefs  were  entertained  at  his  table,  and  greatly  edified  by 
the  governer's  domestic  economy.  Chicataubut  refused  to  eat 
until  his  host  said  grace,  and  received  at  his  departure  a  suit 
of  the  governor's  clothes,  in  which  he  strutted  home  to  his 
wigwam  with  increased  importance. 

According  to  the  modern  view,  the  governor  did  not  favor 
popular  government ;  his  opinion  being  that  wisdom  resided  in 
the  few.  As  a  man  he  was  less  inflexible  than  as  a  magistrate, 
for  it  is  related  that  he  reclaimed  a  thief  whom  he  detected 
stealing  his  wood  in  the  following  manner.  "  Friend,"  said  the 
governor,  "  it  is  a  very  cold  season,  and  I  doubt  you  are  poorly 
provided  with  wood ;  you  are  welcome  to  supply  yourself  at  my 
pile  till  the  winter  is  over."  The  governor  had  four  wives,  and 
lost  not  only  three  of  these,  but  six  children.  His  death  occurred 
on  the  26th  of  March,  1649,  at  the  age  of  sixty-one.  He  was 
entombed  in  King's  Chapel  Ground,  on  the  north  side.  One 
of  his  sons  became  governor  of  Connecticut,  and  shares  his 
tomb  ;  a  beautiful  statue  of  Winthrop,  by  Greenough,  is  in  the 
chapel  at  Mount  Auburn.     The  governor  left  a  journal  of  his 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE. 


227 


voyage  from  England,  and  of  the  proceedings  in  the  colony  up 
to  his  decease,  which  was  edited  by  James  Savage.  Some  of 
the  admirers  of  Governor  Winthrop's  character  have  declared 
him  worthy  of  canonization,  had  we  like  Home  a  sacred  cal- 
ender. 

The  Old  South  still  stands,  one  of  the  monuments  of  Old 
Boston.  Its  existence  has  been  often  threatened,  and  erelong  per- 
haps will  be  swept  from  its  foundations,  to  appear  in  new  and 
strange  habiliments  in  a 
remote  part  of  the  city. 
It  is  the  richest  church 
corporation  in  the  city, 
and,  next  to  Old  Trinity 
of  New  York,  in  the 
country.  The  Winthrop 
estate  passed  through 
Thatcher  and  Mrs.  Nor- 
ton to  the  church,  and 
in  conseopience  of  its 
central  location  has  be- 
come of  great  value.  Its 
parishioners  once  dwelt 
within  sight  of  its  stee- 
ple, but  now  few  can  be 
found  within  sound  of 
its  bell.  Milk  Street, 
Franklin  Street,  Sum- 
mer and  Winter,  Brom- 
field  and  School,  have 
hardly  a  residence  left. 
Two  of  them  at  least 
were  once  filled  with  the  abodes  of  the  most  respectable  inhab- 
itants of  the  city,  but  commerce  has  said  "  Move  on  !  "  and  the 
the  population  has  vanished  before  it. 

Curiously  enough,  the  Old  South,  arising  from  a  schism  in 
the  First  Church,  like  it  originated  in  Charlestown,  where  also 
was  organized  the  First  Baptist  Society.      Like  the  Baptists, 


THE  OLD  SOUTH. 


228  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

also,  this  society  was  proclaims!  against,  but.  erected  a  house 
of  worship,  the  third  in  Boston.  The  theological  disputes, 
questions  of  doctrine  or  church  government  in  which  this 
society  originated,  however  interesting,  cannot  he  given  here. 
Thomas  Thacher  was  the  hrst  minister,  settled  in  February, 
1670.  The  first  house  was  of  wood,  and  stood  until  1729, 
when  it  Avas  taken  down  to  give  place  to  the  then  new  brick 
edifice.  In  the  front  was  placed,  in  1867,  a  tablet  bearing  the 
following  inscription,  so  that  all  who  run  may  thus  read  a  little 
of  the  history  of  the  church  :  — 


OLD  SOUTH. 

Church  gathered  1669. 

First  House  built  1670. 

This  House  erected,  1729. 

Desecrated  by  British  Troops,  1775-6. 


This  little  memorial  contains  a  succinct  account  of  the  church 
even  to  the  last  line,  "  Desecrated  by  British  Troops,"  which 
was  strenuously  objected  to  by  many  at  the  time  the  tablet  was 
placed  there.  The  occupation  of  churches  by  troops  has  been 
common  in  all  wars,  notably  so  in  the  late  Rebellion.  Such 
occupation  has  not  been  generally  considered  as  calling  for  a 
new  consecration,  and  the  use  of  the  word  "  desecrated  "  is  per- 
haps not  fortunate,  though  the  usage  of  this  house  was  pecu- 
liary  malicious  and  repugnant.  The  name  "  Old  South  "  goes 
no  further  back  than  the  building  of  the  "!New  South,"  in 
Summer  Street,  in  1717.  It  was  primardy  the  South  Meeting- 
house, being  then  considered  in  the  south  part  of  the  town. 
On  a  stone  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the  church  is  sculp- 
tured, "X.  E.  (Xewly  Erected)  March  31,  1729." 

The  possession  of  the  South  Meeting-house  by  Sir  Edmund 
Andros  has  been  stated  in  connection  with  King's  Chapel. 
From  this  church,  in  1688,  was  buried  Lady  Andros,  wife  of 
the  arbitrary  Knight.  The  governor's  house  was  doubtless  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  Cotton  Hill,  as  from  Judge  Sewall's 
account  of  the  funeral  we  learn  th.it  "  the  corpse  was  carried 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  229 

into  the  hearse  drawn  by  six  horses,  the  soldiers  making  a 
guard  from  the  Governor's  house  down  the  Prison  Lane  to 
the  South  Meeting  House."  The  tomb  of  Lady  Anne  An- 
dros  was  identified  by  the  care  of  a  relative,  who  found  'a 
slab,  with  her  name  inscribed,  while  repairing  her  last  resting- 
place. 

None  of  the  city  churches  are  so  rich  in  historical  associa- 
tions as  this.  Here  Lovell,  Church,  Warren,  and  Hancock 
delivered  their  orations  on  the  anniversaries  of  the  Massacre. 
When  Warren  delivered  his  second  address  in  March,  1775, 
an  officer  of  the  Welsh  Fusileers,  Captain  Chapman,  held  up  to 
his  view  a  number  of  pistol-bullets,  at  the  same  time  exclaim- 
ing, "  Fie  !  fie  !  "  This  was  construed  to  be  a  cry  of  fire,  and 
threw  the  house  into  confusion  until  quieted  by  William  Coo- 
per, while  Warren  dropped  a  handkerchief  over  the  officer's 
hand.  Many  other  officers  were  present  with  the  purpose,  as 
was  thought,  to  overawe  the  speaker.  But  Warren  was  not  to 
be  overawed.  At  the  same  time  the  47th  regiment,  returning 
from  parade,  passed  the  Old  South,  when  Colonel  ISTesbit,  the 
commander  caused  the  drums  to  beat  with  the  view  of  drown- 
ing the  orator's  voice. 

A  writer  thus  describes  the  events  of  that  day  :  — 

"  The  day  came  and  the  weather  was  remarkably  fine.  The  Old 
South  Meeting-house  was  crowded  at  an  early  hour.  The  British 
officers  occupied  the  aisles,  the  flight  of  steps  to  the  pulpit,  and 
Beveral  of  them  were  within  it.  It  is  not  precisely  known  whether 
this  was  accident  or  design.  The  orator  with  the  assistance  of  his 
friends  made  Ins  entrance  at  the  window  by  a  ladder.  The  officers, 
seeing  his  coolness  and  intrepidity,  made  way  for  him  to  advance 
and  address  the  audience.  An  awful  stillness  preceded  his  exor- 
dium. Each  man  felt  the  palpitations  of  his  own  heart,  and  saw 
the  pale  but  determined  lace  of  his  neighbor.  The  speaker  began 
his  oration  in  a  firm  tone  of  voice,  and  proceeded  with  -icat  energy 
ami  pathos.  Warren  and  his  friends  were  prepared  to  chastise  con- 
tumely, prevent  disgrace,  and  avenge  an  attempt  at  assassination." 

In  the  old  church  Benjamin  Franklin  was  baptized.  In  the 
new,  was  held  the  famous  Tea-Party  meeting,  adjourned  from 


230  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

Faneuil  Hall  because  the  crowd  was  too  great  to  be  contained 
there.  It  is  believed  that  Samuel  Adams  had  with  others  con- 
trived this  assemblage  to  draw  off  attention  from  their  plans, 
already  matured  and  waiting  only  the  signal  of  execution. 
Certain  it  is  that  the  Mohawks  appeared  precisely  at  the  mo- 
ment when  negotiation  had  failed  to  prevent  the  landing  of  the 
tea.  At  this  meeting  was  made  the  first  suggestion  to  dispose 
of  the  tea  in  the  way  finally  adopted.  John  Eowe,  who  lived 
in  PcTnd  Street,  now  Bedford,  said,  "  Who  knows  how  tea  will 
mingle  with  salt  water  ] "  The  idea  was  received  with  great 
laughter  and  approval.  It  is  from  the  same  Eowe  that  Eowe 
Street  took  its  name. 

Governor  Hutchinson  was  at  this  time  at  his  country-seat 
in  Milton,  —  afterwards  occupied  by  Barney  Smith,  Esq., — 
where  he  received  a  committee  from  the  meeting,  who  made  a 
final  demand  that  the  cargoes  of  tea  should  be  sent  away.  The 
governor,  however,  refused  to  interfere  in  the  matter.  It  is  re- 
lated that  he  was  afterwards  informed  that  a  mob  was  on  its 
way  to  visit  him,  and  that  he  left  his  house  with  his  face  half 
shaven,  making  the  best  of  his  way  across  the  fields  to  a  place 
of  safety. 

During  the  absence  of  the  committee  Josiah  Quincy,  Jr., 
made  an  eloquent  speech.  When  the  deputation  returned  with 
their  unfavorable  report,  about  sunset,  the  Indian  yell  was 
heard  at  the  church  door,  and  the  band  of  disguised  Mohawks 
since  so  famous  in  history,  filled  the  street.  The  meeting 
broke  up  in  confusion,  notwithstanding  the  efforts  of  Sam- 
uel Adams  to  detain  the  people,  who  rushed  forth  into  the 
street.  The  Indians,  after  their  momentary  pause,  took  their 
way  through  Milk  Street  directly  to  Griffin's,  now  Liverpool 
Wharf. 

The  number  of  the  simulated  Indians  has  been  variously 
estimated  at  from  sixteen  to  eighty.  Their  disguise  was  effected 
in  a  carpenter's  shop,  where  Joseph  Lovering,  a  boy  of  twelve, 
held  the  candle  for  the  masqueraders.  They  wore  paint  and 
carried  hatchets.  Under  their  blankets  were  concealed  many  a 
laced  and  ruffled  coat.  "  Depend  upon  it,"  says  John  Adams, 
"  they  were  no  ordinary  Mohawks." 


THE   OLD   SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  231 

The  women  of  Boston  were  not  behind  the  men  in  their  op- 
position to  the  tea-duty ;  many,  doubtless,  keenly  felt  the  loss 
of  their  favorite  beverage.  The  ladies  had  their  meetings,  at 
which  they  resolved  not  to  use  the  obnoxious  herb.  Here  is 
the  lament  of  one  matron  over  her  empty  urn  :  — 

"  Farewell  the  tea-board,  with  its  gaudy  equipage 
Of  cups  and  saucers,  cream-bucket,  sugar-tongs, 
The  pretty  tea-chest,  also,  lately  stored 
With  Hyson,  Congou,  and  best  double  fine. 
Full  many  a  joyous  moment  have  I  sat  by  ye, 
Hearing  the  girls  tattle,  the  old  maids  talk  scandal, 
And  the  spruce  coxcomb  laugh  at  —  maybe  —  nothing. 
Though  now  detestable, 
Because  I  am  taught  (and  I  believe  it  true) 
Its  use  will  fasten  slavish  chains  upon  my  country, 
To  reign  Triumphant  hi  America. " 

The  occupation  of  the  Old  South  by  troops  was  at  the  in- 
stance of  General  Jolm  Burgoyne.  It  was  his  regiment,  the 
Queen's  Light  Dragoons,  that  set  up  the  riding-school  in  the 
House  of  God,  overthrowing  its  sacred  memorials,  and  transform- 
ing it  into  a  circus.  These  brave  troopers  never  showed  their 
colors  outside  the  fortifications.  The  pulpit  and  pews  were  all 
removed  and  burnt,  and  many  hundred  loads  of  gravel  carted 
in  and  spread  upon  the  floor.  The  east  gallery  was  reserved 
for  spectators  of  the  feats  of  horsemanship,  wlide  a  bar  fitted 
up  in  the  first  gallery  offered  means  of  refreshment.  "  The 
beautiful  carved  pew  of  Deacon  Hubbard,  with  the  silken  hang- 
ings, was  taken  doAvn  and  carried  to 's  house  by  an  officer 

and  made  a  hog  stye."  *  The  south  door  was  closed,  and  a  leap- 
ing-bar  placed  for  the  horses.  It  has  been  stated  that  some  of 
the  valuable  books  and  manuscripts  of  Bev.  Thomas  Prince 
went  for  fuel  during  the  winter,  as  did  also  the  adjoining  par- 
sonage house,  and  the  noble  sycamore-trees  that  skirted  tin; 
grass-plot  in  front. 

After  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne  his  army  marched  to  Cain- 
bridge.  General  Heath,  then  commanding  in  Boston,  invited 
Sir  John  to  dine  with  him,  and  lie  appeared  in  response  to  the 
invitation,  bringing  with  him  Phillips  and  Riedesel.  Afterdinner 

*  Newell's  Diary.     Thacher's  Military  Journal. 


232  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

Burgoyne  desired  to  go  out  of  town  by  way  of  Gharlestown,  and 
General  Heath  accompanied  him  to  the  ferry.  The  curiosity  to 
see  the  prisoners  was  very  great,  and  the  inhabitants  crowded 
the  streets,  windows,  and  even  the  house-tops,  to  gratify  it.  As 
the  procession  was  passing  the  Province  House,  General  Bur- 
goyne observed  to  the  other  generals,  "  There  is  the  former 
residence  of  the  governor."  Some  one  in  the  crowd  who  heard 
the  remark  said,  in  an  audible  voice,  "And  on  the  other  side  is 
the  riding-school." 

A  good  anecdote  is  told  of  the  hero  of  Portugal  and  Flanders 
while  the  prisoner  of  Gates.  "  In  the  height  of  jocular  con- 
versation Burgoyne  told  the  victor  of  Saratoga  that  he  was 
more  fit  for  a  midwife  than  a  general.  'Acknowledged,'  said 
Gates,  '  for  I  have  delivered  you  of  seven  thousand  men.'  " 

While  the  regidars  held  possession  of  the  church,  an  incident 
occurred  which  frightened  the  more  superstitious  among  them, 
so  that  it  was  difficult  to  maintain  a  guard,  as  was  the  custom, 
at  the  church  door.  Among  the  troops  were  a  good  many 
Scotch  Presbyterians,  who  were  not  a  little  fearful  of  retribu- 
tive justice  for  their  abuse  of  the  place.  Some  one,  knowing 
the  Scotch  belief  in  apparitions,  appeared  to  the  sentinel  as 
the  ghost  of  Dr.  Sewall.  The  Scot  yelled  with  affright  to  the 
guard  stationed  at  the  Province  House,  and  was  with  difficulty 
pacified. 

When  D'Estaing's  fleet  lay  in  Boston  harbor,  in  September, 
1778,  the  British  fleet,  of  twenty  sail,  hove  in  sight.  It  was 
discovered  and  the  alarm  given  by  Mr.  John  Cutler  from  the 
steeple  of  the  Old  South.  Admiral  D'Estaing,  who  was  on 
shore,  immediately  put  off  for  the  squadron,  and  the  militia 
were  ordered  to  the  Castle  and  the  works  on  Noddle's  and 
George's  Island,  Dorchester  Heights,  etc.,  but  the  enemy  made 
no  attempt.  The  same  fleet  afterwards  made  the  descent  on 
New  Bedford  and  Martha's  Vineyard. 

The  old  church  has  been  considerably  changed  in  its  interior. 
It  was  one  of  the  last  to  retain  the  square  pews,  elevated  pulpit, 
and  sounding-board.  The  upper  gallery  was  altered,  a  new 
organ  obtained,  and  the  brush  of  modern  art  applied  to  the 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  233 

ceilings ;  otherwise  the  house  remains  much  the  same  as  when 
erected.  It  had  a  narrow  escape  from  destruction  by  fire  many- 
years  ago,  but  was  saved  by  superhuman  efforts  on  the  part  of 
Isaac  Harris,  the  mast-maker,  who  ascended  to  the  roof  while 
it  was  on  fire,  and  succeeded  in  extinguishing  the  flames.  For 
this  brave  act  he  received  a  silver  pitcher. 

One  of  Dr.  Sewall's  flock  was  Phillis  Wheatley,  a  woman  of 
color  and  a  slave.  She  was  a  pure  African,  brought  to  America 
in  1761,  and  yet  she  possessed  genius  of  a  high  order.  She 
was,  in  a  great  measure,  self-taught,  never  having  received  any 
school  education,  yet  wrote  admirable  verses.  Her  poems  were 
collected  in  a  thin  volume  and  published  in  London,  and  have 
also  been  reprinted  in  this  country.  One  of  her  effusions,  ad- 
dressed to  Washington,  may  be  found  in  Sparks's  "  Life  of 
Washington  "  ;  it  brought  an  acknowledgment  from  the  general, 
then  at  Cambridge,  also  printed  therein.  She  accompanied  the 
son  of  her  master  to  London  in  1773,  where  she  received  great 
notice  from  the  nobility,  but  soon  returned  to  Boston,  where 
she  contracted  an  unhappy  marriage,  and  died  not  long  after  in 
utter  destitution  at  her  house  in  Court  Street.  The  genuine- 
ness of  her  poems  was  attested  by  Governors  Hutchinson,  Han- 
cock, Bowdoin,  her  master  Wheatley,  and  almost  every  clergy- 
man in  Boston.  The  following  extract  is  from  her  Hymn  to 
the  Evening  :  — 

"  Filled  with  the  praise  of  Him  who  gives  the  light, 
And  draws  the  sable  curtains  of  the  night, 
Let  placid  slumbers  soothe  each  weary  mind, 
At  mom  to  wake,  more  heavenly,  more  refined  ; 
So  shall  the  labors  of  the  day  begin 
More  pure,  more  guarded  from  the  snares  of  sin. 
Night's  leaden  sceptre  seals  my  drowsy  eyes  ; 
Then  cease  my  song,  till  fair  Aurora  rise." 

We  have  spoken  of  the  trees  that  of  yore  graced  the  green 
before  the  governor's  house  and  church.  A  single  horse-chestnut 
waves  its  scanty  foliage  behind  the  church  on  the  Milk  St  net 
side. 

If  you  look  closely  at  the  masonry  of  the  Old  South  you  will 
notice  that  each  course  is  laid  with  the  side  and  end  of  the 


234  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

brick  alternating  ;  this  is  known  as  the  Flemish  Bond.  The 
West  Church,  Old  Brattle  Street,  Park  Street,  and  some  others, 
have  walls  built  in  the  same  manner.  Gawen  Brown,  of  Bos- 
ton, made  the  first  clock,  esteemed  the  finest  in  America.  The 
Prince  library  was  deposited  in  the  tower. 

Spring  Lane  recalls  the  ancient  Spring-gate,  the  natural  foun- 
tain at  which  Winthrop  and  Johnson  stooped  to  quench  their 
thirst,  and  from  which,  no  doubt,  Madam  Winthrop  and  Anne 
Hutchinson  filled  their  flagons  for  domestic  use.  The  gentle- 
women may  have  paused  here  for  friendly  chat,  if  the  rigor  of 
the  governor's  opposition  to  the  schismatic  Anne  did  not  forbid. 
The  handmaid  of  Elder  Thomas  Oliver,  Winthrop's  next  neigh- 
bor on  the  opposite  corner  of  the  Spring-gate,  fetched  her  pitcher, 
like  another  Rebecca,  from  this  well ;  and  grim  Richard  Brack- 
ett,  the  jailer,  may  have  laid  down  his  halberd  to  quaff  a  morn- 
ing draught. 

Water  Street  is  also  self-explanatory ;  it  descended  the  incline 
to  the  water  at  Oliver's  Dock.  We  have  described  elsewhere 
the  primitive  aspect  of  the  region  from  Congress  Street  to  the 
harbor.  A  British  barrack  was  in  Water  Street  at  the  time  of 
the  Massacre. 

At  the  north  corner  of  Washington  and  Water  Streets  was 
the  sign  of  the  "  Heart  and  Crown."  It  was  the  printing-office 
of  Thomas  Fleet  in  1731.  After  his  death,  crowns  being  un- 
popular, the  sign  was  changed  to  the  "  Bible  and  Heart."  Fleet 
sold  books,  household  goods,  etc.  In  1735  he  began  the  publi- 
cation of  the  Boston  Evening  Post,  a  successor  of  the  Weekly 
Rehearsal,  begun  in  1731.  Here  is  one  of  the  Post's  advertise- 
ments ;  it  would  look  somewhat  strangely  in  the  columns  of  its 
modern  namesake  :  — 

"  To  be  sold  by  the  printer  of  this  paper,  the  very  best  Xegro 
Woman  in  this  Town,  who  has  had  the  Small-Pox  and  the  measles  ; 
is  as  hearty  as  a  Horse,  as  brisk  as  a  Bird,  and  will  work  like  a 
Beaver.     Aug.  23d.  1742." 

Having  taken  in  the  surroundings  of  the  church  to  the  north, 
we  may  now  set  our  faces  southward  and  visit  in  fancy  the 
official  residence  of  the  royal  deputies. 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  235 

The  Province  House  was  one  of  the  last  relics  of  the  col- 
ony to  disappear.  It  has  formed  the  theme  of  some  pleasant 
fictions  by  Hawthorne  in  "  Twice-Told  Tales,"  as  well  as  a  brief 
sketch  of  the  edifice  not  founded  in  fancy.  The  licpiid  which 
mine  host  mixed  for  the  novelist  before  he  set  about  his  re- 
searches has  a  smack  of  reality  about  it,  and  may  have  enlivened 
his  picturesque  description. 

This  ancient  abode  of  the  royal  governors  was  situated  nearly 
opposite  the  head  of  j\Iilk  Street.     The  place  is  now  shut  out 


PROVINCE   HOUSE. 

from  the  vision  of  the  passer-by  by  a  row  of  brick  structures 
standing  on  Washington  Street.  Before  the  erection  of  any 
buildings  to  screen  it  from  view,  the  Province  House  stood 
twenty  or  thirty  paces  back  from  old  Marlborough  Street,  with 
a  handsome  grass  lawn  in  front,  ornamented  by  two  stately  oak- 


236  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

trees,  which  reared  their  verdant  tops  on  either  side  the  gate 
separating  the  grounds  from  the  highway,  and  cast  a  grateful 
shade  over  the  approach  to  the  mansion.  At  either  end  of  the 
fence  were  porters'  lodges,  and  the  visitor  passed  over  a  paved 
walk  to  the  building.     Ample  stables  stood  in  the  rear. 

The  building  itself  was  a  three-story  brick  structure,  sur- 
mounted by  an  octagonal  cupola.  Over  all  stood  the  bronze 
effigy  of  an  Indian,  —  the  chosen  emblem  of  the  colony.  This 
figure,  which  served  the  purpose  of  a  vane,  was  of  hammered  cop- 
per ;  it  had  glass  eyes,  and  appeared  in  the  act  of  fitting  an  arrow 
to  its  bow.  It  was  the  handiwork  of  Deacon  Shem  Drowne. 
A  flight  of  near  twenty  massive  red  freestone  steps  conducted 
to  the  spacious  entrance-hall,  worthy  the  vice-regal  dwellers 
within.  A  portico  supported  by  wooden  pillars  was  surmounted 
by  a  curiously  wrought  iron  balustrade,  into  which  was  woven 
the  date  of  erection  and  initials  of  the  proprietor,  Peter  Sar- 
geant :  — 

16.     P.  S.     79. 

From  this  balcony  the  viceroys  of  the  province  were  accus- 
tomed to  harangue  the  people  or  read  proclamations.  The  royal 
arms,  richly  carved  and  gdt,  decorated  the  front ;  the  bricks 
were  of  Holland  make.  The  interior  was  on  a  scale  of  princely 
magnificence,  little  corresponding  to  the  general  belief  in  the 
simplicity  of  the  mode  of  living  of  the  times.  The  homes  of 
Faneuil,  of  Hutchinson,  and  of  Frankland  have  shown  that 
luxury  had  effected  an  entrance  into  the  habitations  of  the  rich. 
The  house  of  Peter  Sargeant  was  a  fit  companion  to  the  others 
cited.  On  the  first  floor  an  ample  reception-room,  panelled  with 
rich  wood  and  hung  with  tapestry,  opened  from  the  hall.  This 
was  the  hall  of  audience  of  Shute,  Burnet,  Shirley,  Pownall, 
Bernard,  Gage,  and,  last  of  all,  Sir  "William  Howe. 

It  is  probable  that  the  first  of  the  governors  who  occupied 
the  Province  House  was  Samuel  Shute,  an  old  soldier  of  Marl- 
borough, who  had  won  distinction  from  his  king  on  the  bloody 
fields  of  Flanders.  His  administration  of  the  affairs  of  the 
colony,  which  he  governed  from  1716  to  1723,  was  unfortunate. 
He  came  into  conflict  with  the  Legislature  on  cpiestions  of  pre- 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   TROVINCE   HOUSE. 


237 


*M4# 


rogative.  The  governor,  almost  stripped  of  his  authority,  was 
obliged  to  seek  a  remedy  at  court,  and  though  his  powers  were 
confirmed,  he  did  not  enjoy  the  fruits  of  the  decision. 

It  is  perhaps  not  generally  known  that  a  paper  currency  of 
small  denominations  was  issued  in  the  colony  as  early  as  1722. 
Specimens  are  here  reproduced.  They  were  printed  on  parch- 
ment, of  the  size  given  in  the  engravings.  No  other  instance 
is  remembered  of  the  emission  of  such  small  sums  in  paper 
until  we  come  down  to  the 
period  of  the  Revolution. 
The  whole,  amount  authorized 
was  only  £  500,  and  speci- 
mens are  very  rare.  The  cuts 
given  here  are  exact  fac-similes 
of  the  originals  now  in  the 
possession  of  the  Antiquarian 
Society.  A  very  full  account 
of  early  Massachusetts  cur- 
rency may  be  found  in  the 
Proceedings  of  that  society  for 
1866,  from  the  pen  of  Nathaniel  Paine,  Esq.  In  the  first  years 
of  the  settlement  wampum,  brass  farthings,  and  even  musket- 
bullets,  supplied  a  circulating  medium. 

"William  Burnet  was  born  in  1688,  at  the  Hague.  The 
Prince  of  Orange,  afterwards  King  William  of  England,  stood 
godfather  for  him  at  the  baptismal  font.  His  father  was 
the  celebrated  Bishop  Burnet,  author  of  the  "  History  of  the 

The  elder  Burnet,  falling  under  the 
displeasure  of  King  James,  re- 
tired to  the  Continent,  entered 
the  service  of  the  Prince  of 
Orange,  and  accompanied  him 
to  England  when  William  ob- 
tained the  throne  of  his  father- 
in  daw,  the  Hying  James.  He 
was  rewarded  with  the  bishop- 
ric of  Salisbury,  while  the  son 


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238 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


received  subsequently  from  the  House  of  Hanover  the  gov- 
ernment of  New  York,  and  afterwards  that  of  Massachusetts 
Colony. 

The  new  governor  was  received  with  enthusiasm  on  his 
arrival.  He  was  met  at  the  George  Tavern,  on  the  Neck,  by 
the  lieutenant-governor,  members  of  the  Council,  and  Colonel 
Dudley's  regiment.  Under  this  escort,  and  followed  by  a  vast 
concourse  of  gentlemen  on  horseback,  in  coaches  and  chaises, 
he  proceeded  to  the  Court  House,  where  his  commission  was 
read.  Shouts  of  joy  and  salvos  of  artillery  from  the  forts  and 
Castle  welcomed  him  to  Boston.  Mather  Byles  was  ready  with 
a  laudatory  composition  :  — 

"  While  rising  Shouts  a  general  Joy  proclaim, 
And  ev'ry  Tongue,  0  Burnet  !  lisps  thy  name  ; 
To  view  thy  face  while  crowding  Armies  run, 
Whose  waving  Banners  blaze  against  the  Sun, 
And  deep-mouth'd  Cannon,  with  a  thund'ring  roar, 
Sound  thy  commission  stretch'd  from  Shore  to  Shore." 

Burnet  lived  but  a  short  time  to  stem  the  tide  of  opposition 
to  kingly  authority,  and  died  September  7,  1729.     While  he 

lived  he   maintained    in 


proper  state  the  dignity 
of  his  office.  His  negro 
valet,  Andrew  the  Trum- 
peter, stood  at  the  portal 
of  the  Province  House, 
or  drove  his  Excellency 
abroad  in  his  coach.  His 
menage  was  under  the 
care  of  a  competent  house- 
keeper. Betty,  the  black 
laundress,  had  the  care 
of  twenty  pair  and  one 
of  Holland  sheets,  with 
damask  napkins,  and 
store  of  linen  to  match.  A  goodly  array  of  plate  garnished  the 
sideboard,  and  ancient  weapons  graced  the  walls.     Hobby,  the 


\       — . 

pemce 


^A^aoractmfms 


¥k — g? 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PEOVINCE   HOUSE.  239 

cook,  presided  over  the  cuisine ;  and  coach,  chariot,  and  chaises 
stood  in  the  stahles.     He  had  a  steward  and  a  French  tutor. 

Notwithstanding  the  governor  directed  his  funeral  to  take 
place  in  the  most  private  manner,  after  the  form  of  any  Prot- 
estant church  that  might  he  nearest,  the  authorities  would  not 
have  it  so,  and  expended  nearly  £1,100  upon  a  showy  pageant. 
The  governor  was  a  churchman  and  attended  King's  Chapel, 
but  showed  he  had  no  religious  bias  in  his  instructions  for  his 
burial.  Burnet  was  probably  the  first  and  last  governor  who 
died  in  the  Province  House. 

"William  Shirley  was  the  admitted  chief  of  the  long  roll  of 
provincial  governors.  He  lived  at  one 
time  in  King  Street,  but,  after  he  became 
governor,  built  an  elegant  mansion  in 
Eoxbury,  afterwards  occupied  by  Govern- 
or Eustis,  and  now,  we  believe,  standing 
on  Eustis  Street,  metamorphosed  by  mod- 
ern improvements.  Shirley,  no  doubt, 
came  to  the  Province  House  to  transact 
official  business,  and  at  the  sitting  of  the  General  Court.  In 
the  reception-room  was,  perhaps,  matured  that  celebrated  expe- 
dition, which  resulted  in  the  capture  of  Louisburg.  All  the 
measures  relating  to  the  enterprise  were  conducted  -with  great 
ability.  Profound  secrecy  was  maintained  as  to  its  object  while 
under  discussion  by  the  General  Court;  the  Governor  carried 
the  measure  by  only  a  single  vote.  Volunteers  flocked  in  from 
all  quarters,  and  the  town  became  a  camp.  Over  two  thousand 
men  were  raised.  Sir  William  Pepperell,  whom  an  English 
historian  has  contemptuously  called  a  "Piscataquay  trader," 
was  given  the  command,  and  on  the  lGth  of  June,  1745,  the 
bulwark  of  French  power  in  America  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
provincial  forces. 

Another  measure  of  Governor  Shirley  deserves  mention.  Ten 
years  before  the  passage  of  the  Stamp  Act  by  the  English  Par- 
liament, the  Legislature  of  the  colony  had  passed  a  similar  act 
of  their  own,  laying  a  tax  on  vellum,  parchment,  and  public 
papers  for  two  years;  newspapers  were  included  at  first,  but 


240 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


soon  exempted.  This  shows  that  it  was  not  the  stamp  tax  to 
which  our  ancestors  objected,  but  to  its  levy  without  their  con- 
sent. Specimens  are  here  given  from  documents  of  the  time  to 
which  the  stamps  were  affixed.  One  of  the  cuts  (the  three  penny 
stamp)  is  engraved  from  the  original  die  used  in  the  stamp-office. 
It  is  a  short  steel  bar  attached  to  the  circular  part,  the  impres- 
sion being  made  by  a  blow  from  a  hammer.  This  interesting 
souvenir  of  the  times  of  Shirley  is  in  the 
possession  of  Jeremiah  Colburn,  Esq.,  of 
Boston,  a  well-known  antiquarian. 

The   expatriation    of    the   unfortunate 
French   from   Acadia   took    place    while 
Shirley  was  governor,  and  Massachusetts 
received  about  two  hundred  families.    The 
'uuj/^mum"-  terrific  earthquake  of  1755  shook  the  town 

to  its  foundations,  and  filled  the  streets  with  the  debris  of  ruined 
houses,  about  fifteen  hundred  sustaining  injury.  Shirley  was 
a  man  of  letters,  and  wrote  a  tragedy,  be- 
sides the  history  of  the  Louisburg  expe- 
dition. He  also  held  a  government  in 
the  Bahamas,  and  was  made  lieutenant- 
general.  His  son,  "William,  was  killed  at 
the  defeat  of  Braddock. 

Thomas  Pownall  superseded  Governor 
Shirley,  in  1757-58,  as  governor.  He 
occupied  the  chair  only  three  years.  He  made  a  popular  and 
enlightened  chief  magistrate,  contrasting  favorably  with  the 
dark,  intriguing  Lieutenant-Governor 
Hutchinson.  The  great  and  disastrous 
fire  of  March  20,  1760,  occurred  before 
\|  the  departure  of  the  governor  to  assume 
the  government  of  South  Carolina ;  also 
the  organization  and  refitting  of  the  land 
and  naval  forces,  under  General  Amherst, 
for  the  reduction  of  Quebec  and  Montreal. 
Governor  Pownall  was  a  stanch  friend  of  the  Colonies,  even 
after  hostilities  commenced  with  the  mother  country.     Xo  in- 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  241 

mate  of  the  Province  House  was  more  respected  or  more 
regretted.  The  governor  made  an  excellent  plan  or  picture  of 
Boston  from  the  Castle  in  1757. 

Pownall,  it  is  said,  was  a  great  ladies'  man.  He  was  rather 
short  in  stature,  and  inclined  to  be  corpulent.  It  was  the 
fashion  of  that  day  for  a  gentleman  to  salute  a  lady  when 
introduced  to  her.  The  governor  was  presented  to  a  tall  dame 
whom  he  requested  to  stoop  to  meet  the  offered  courtesy. 
"  No  !  "  says  the  lady,  "  I  will  never  stoop  to  any  man,  —  not 
even  to  your  Excellency."  Pownall  sprang  upon  a  chair,  ex- 
claiming, "  Then  I  will  stoop  to  you,  madam  !  "  and  imprinted 
a  loud  smack  upon  the  cheek  of  the  haughty  one.  This,  like 
many  good  old  customs  of  our  forefathers,  has  fallen  into  neg- 
lect. It  was  Pownall  who  induced  the  Legislature  to  erect  a 
monument  in  Westminster  Abbey  to  Lord  Howe,  who  fell  at 
Ticonderoga,  and  was  much  esteemed  in  Boston.  Another  was 
ordered  to  be  erected  to  General  Wolfe  at  the  east  end  of  the 
Town  House,  but  Hutchinson  prevented  its  being  carried  out. 

His  successor,  Francis  Bernard,  was  received  on  his  arrival 
from  New  Jersey  with  the  usual  pomp  and  ceremony,  and 
escorted  through  the  town  to  his  residence  at  the  Province 
House.  During  the  period  of  Bernard's  administration,  from 
1760  to  17G9,  the  stormy  events  which  caused  the  Colonies  to 
throw  oft*  the  yoke  of  Great  Britain  occurred.  The  Writs  of 
Assistance,  the  Stamp  Act,  the  introduction  of  troops,  and  the 
removal  of  the  General  Court  to  Cambridge,  heaped  odium 
upon  his  conduct  of  affairs.  Volumes  have  been  written  upon 
the  history  of  those  nine  years.  So  Bernard  passed  out  from 
the  shelter  of  the  Province  House  with  none  to  do  him  rev- 
erence. The  king  recalled  him,  and  the  province  spurned  him. 
The  last  crowned  head  in  this  colony  was  proclaimed  by  Ber- 
nard.    He  gave  a  valuable  portion  of  his  library  to  Harvard. 

It  has  been  said  of  Bernard  that  he  was  only  a  facile  instru- 
ment in  the  hands  of  Hutchinson.  He  was  even  called  Hutch- 
inson's wheelbarrow,  carrying  the  burdens  imposed  by  his  wily 
lieutenant.  Bernard's  character  has  been  described  as  arbitrary  ; 
he  was,  however,  upright,  with  correct  principles  and  courteous 
11  p 


242 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON". 


address.  He  built  him  a  fine  summer  residence  at  Jamaica 
Plain,  afterwards  occupied  by  Martin  Brimmer1. 

After  the  governor's  departure  for  England,  watch  and  ward 
was  but  ill  kept  at  the  Province  House,  or  else  his  Ancient 
Hutchinson,  now  his  successor,  troubled  himself  but  little  about 
the  goods  and  chattels  of  the  baronet.  The  mansion  was  broken 
open,  and  among  other  articles  stolen  were  three  feather-beds, 
four  pair  of  blankets,  ditto  of  sheets, 
all  marked  with  his  Excellency's  ini- 
tials. The  thief,  besides  this  m.  re 
bulky  booty,  stole  a  crown-piece  of 
James  II.  and  two  German  rix  dol- 
lars. 

The  next  inmate  of  the  Province 
House  was  Thomas  Gage,  who  was 
expected  to  support  the  kingly  pre- 
rogative by  force  of  arms.  We  first 
found  the  general  in  quarters  in 
the  colony  seal.  .  Brattle   Street,   and  gave  there    an 

outline  of  his  career  while  military  governor.  He  occupied  the 
Province  House  when  appointed  to  the  government  in  1774, 
and  the  tread  and  challenge  of  a  British  grenadier  resounded 
for  the  first  time  in  the  ancient  halls. 

Here  was  held  the  council  between  Earl  Percy  and  the  gov- 
ernor relative  to  the  expedition  to  Lexington,  so  mysteriously 
noised  abroad,  and  which  Gage  declared  he  had  imparted  the 
knowledge  of  to  only  one  other ;  even  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Smith,  who  was  intrusted  with  the  command,  did  not  know  his 
destination.  As  Percy  was  going  to  his  quarters  from  this 
interview,  he  met  a  number  of  townspeople  conversing  near  the 
Common.  As  he  went  towards  them,  one  of  them  remarked, 
"  The  British  troops  have  marched,  but  will  miss  their  aim." 
"What  aim?"  asked  the  Earl.  "The  cannon  at  Concord,"  was 
the  answer.  Percy  retraced  his  steps  to  the  Province  House, 
where  his  chief  heard  with  surprise  and  mortification  the  news 
that  the  movement  was  no  longer  a  secret.  He  declared  he  had 
been  betrayed. 


THE  OLD  SOUTH  AND  PROVINCE  HOUSE.      243 

The  following  explanation  has  heen  given  of  the  manner  in 
which  Gage's  plans  were  thwarted.  A  groom  at  the  Province 
House  dropped  into  the  stables,  then  opposite  the  Old  South  on 
Milk  Street,  for  a  social  chat  with  a  stable-boy  employed  there. 
The  news  was  asked  of  the  British  jockey,  who,  misconceiving 
the  sentiments  of  his  friend,  replied,  that  he  had  overheard  a 
conversation  between  Gage  and  other  officers,  and  observed, 
"  There  will  be  hell  to  pay  to-morrow."  This  v»as  immediately 
carried  to  Paul  Pevere,  who  enjoined  silence  on  his  informant, 
and  added,  "  You  are  the  third  person  who  has  brought  me  the 
same  information." 

It  was  here,  too,  that  the  perfidy  of  Benjamin  Church  was 
discovered  by  Deacon  Davis,  a  visitor  to  the  general.  Before 
this  time  he  had  been  esteemed  an  ardent  friend  of  the  cause 
of  liberty.  His  residence  was  at  the  south  corner  of  Washing- 
ton and  Avon  Streets. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  Gage  called  his 
officers  together  to  attend  a  coun- 
cil of  war.     Howe,  Clinton,  Bur-  ZvLs  /? 
goyne,   and   Grant    were    present,     ///t-43 .       tf'^^s^-* 
It   was   an    anxious    consultation.                          //        // 
Clinton   and    Grant    proposed   to 

land  the  troops  at  Charlestown  Xeck  under  protection  of  the 
ships,  and  take  the  American  works  in  reverse.  This  plan, 
which  would  have  probably  resulted  in  the  capture  of  the  whole 
provincial  force,  was  disapproved  by  Gage,  who  feared  to  place 
his  men,  in  case  of  disaster,  between  the  intrenched  Americans 
and  reinforcements  from  Cambridge.  General  Gage  returned  to 
England  in  October,  177").  He  married  an  American  lady,  and 
a  niece  of  the  general  by  this  marriage  was  the  wile  of  the  late 
General  William  II.  Sumner,  of  -Jamaica  Plain.  Gage  had 
served  at  Fontenoy  and  Culloden,  and  in  Braddock's  campaign. 
He  is  said  to  have  borne  an  extraordinary  personal  resemblance 
to  Samuel  Adams,  the  chief  conspirator  against  his  sway,  but 
few  can  fail  to  mark  in  the  portrait  of  the  general  the  absence 
of  that  firmness  and  decision  which  is  so  conspicuous  in  that 
of  the  patriot. 


244  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Gage's  well-known   proclamation  was  thus  humorously  hit 

off  soon  after  its  appearance  :  — <- 

"Tom  Gage's  Proclamation, 
Or  blustering  Denunciation, 
(Replete  with  Defamation, 
And  speedy  Jugulation, 
Of  the  New  England  Nation), 
Who  shall  his  pious  ways  shun. 

"Tli  as  graciously  the  war  I  wage, 
As  witnesseth  my  hand  — 

Ton  Gage." 

Sir  "William  Howe,  as  Gage's  military  successor,  took  up  his 
quarters  at  the  Province  House,  and  occupied  it  during  the 
winter  of  1  775  —  76.  As  the  siege  had  now  begun,  its  position 
was  central  and  well  adapted  for  communication  with  the 
works  at  the  Xeck,  or  at  Copp's  Hill,  from  which  it  was  about 
equally  distant.  The  "  Governour's  House  "  now  presented  a 
busy  scene,  and  so  indeed  did  the  neighborhood.  The  dragoons 
held  possession  of  the  Old  South.  The  orderlies'  horses  stood 
hitched  in  front  of  the  general's  quarters,  and  armed  heel  and 
sabre  clattered  up  and  down  the  broad  staircase,  bringing  re- 
ports from  the  various  outposts. 

Howe  Avas  a  good  soldier,  but  not  an  enterprising  one.  He  had 
fought  with  "Wolfe  at  Quebec  as  lieutenant-colonel,  receiving 
the  grade  of  major-general  in  1772.  During  the  siege  he  coolly 
gave  the  order  to  occupy  or  pull  down  churches  or  dwellings  as 
necessity  dictated.  He  has  been  much  execrated  for  setting 
fire  to  Charlestown,  but  the  fire  kept  up  from  some  of  the 
houses  justified  the  act  in  a  military  view.  Finally  Howe 
effected  the  withdrawal  of  his  army  without  loss  from  Boston, 
by  making  the  safety  of  the  town  a  guaranty  of  his  own.  His 
after  career  in  America  was  measurably  successful ;  defeating 
Washington  at  Long  Island  and  White  Plains,  he  took  posses- 
sion of  New  York,  while  the  battles  of  Brandywine  and  Ger- 
mantown  gave  him  Philadelphia.  He  was  relieved  by  his  old 
comrade  Sir  H.  Clinton,  and  returned  home  in  1778,  when  an 
official  inquiry  was  made  into  his  conduct.  Howe's  address 
to  his  troops  before  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  is  a  soldierly 
document. 


THE   OLD   SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  245 

"  Gentlemen,  —  I  am  very  happy  in  having  the  honor  of  com- 
manding so  fine  a  body  of  men  ;  I  do  not  in  the  least  doubt  that 
you  will  behave  like  Englishmen,  and  as  beconieth  good  soldiers. 

"  If  the  enemy  will  not  come  from  their  intrenchments,  we  must 
drive  them  out,  at  all  events,  otherwise  the  town  of  Boston  will  be 
set  on  fire  by  them. 

"  I  shall  not  desire  one  of  you  to  go  a  step  further  than  where  I 
go  myself  at  your  head. 

"  Remember,  gentlemen,  we  have  no  recourse  to  any  resources  if 
we  lose  Boston,  but  to  go  on  board  our  ships,  which  will  be  very 
disagreeable  to  us  all." 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe  Sir  William's  military  duties 
did  not  prevent  his  exercising  a  generous  hospitality.  The  hall 
of  audience  has  no  doubt  resounded  with  mirth  and  music 
when  the  general  received.  There  were  his  royalist  neighbors, 
the  Mascarenes,  Harrison  Gray,  the  Boutineaus  and  Master 
Lovell,  with  many  kindred  spirits  of  the  court  party.  There 
were  Clinton,  Burgoyne,  the  noble  Percy,  and  many  more  of 
the  army  and  navy  to  grace  the  levees  of  their  commander  by 
their  presence.  The  buzz  of  conversation  ceases  as  Sir  William 
leads  out  some  beautiful  tory  for  the  stately  minuet,  an  ex- 
ample speedily  followed  by  his  guests.  Perhaps  amid  the 
strains  of  the  Fusileer's  band  strikes  in  the  deep  diapason  of 
the  continental  cannon. 

The  coming  of  the  troops  into  Boston  made  formidable 
innovations  in  the  customs  and  dress  of  the  old  founders. 
The  sad-colored  garments  and  high-crowned  hats  gave  place  to 
velvet  coat,  ruffles,  and  cocked  hat.  Gentlemen  of  condition 
wore  the  small  sword  in  full  dress,  with  a  gold-headed  cane  to 
set  off  the  lace  depending  from  their  sleeves.  A  gentleman's 
ball  dress  was  a  white  coat,  trimmed  with  silver  basket  but- 
tons, collar  and  button-holes  crossed  with  silver  lace.  Or,  a 
coat  of  blue  or  scarlet  cloth  trimmed  with  gold  might  serve  a 
gallant  of  the  period.  His  hair  was  craped  and  powdered.  A 
satin  embroidered  waistcoat  reaching  below  the  hips,  with  small 
clothes  of  the  same  material,  gold  or  silver  knee-bands,  white 
silk  stockings,  and  high-heeled  morocco  shoes,  with  buckles  of 
some  precious  metal,  completed  a  truly  elegant  attire. 


24G  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

The  ladies  wore  a  sacque  with  a  long  trail  petticoat  hand- 
somely trinirned.  Satin  shoes  with  paste  or  metal  buckle  con- 
fined  delicate  feet.  The  hah'  was  craped  and  ornamented 
according  to  fancy,  and  profusely  sprinkled  with  white  powder. 
The  gown  was  set  oft'  to  advantage  by  two  or  three  tiers  of 
ruffles.  Such  was  court  dress,  and  court  etiquette  prevailed. 
The  manners  were  distinguished  for  stiffness  and  formality, 
relaxing  a  little  under  the  influence  of  the  ballroom.  The 
last  queen's  ball  was  held  February  22,  1775. 

Our  reader  will  care  little  to  know  who  originally  owned  the 
ground  whereon  stood  the  Province  House.  Peter  Sargeant 
built  it  in  the  year  1679,  and  the  Provincial  Legislature  became 
its  purchaser  in  1716.  After  the  Involution  it  was  occupied 
by  the  Treasurer  and  other  officers  of  the  Commonwealth. 
When  the  building  was  reconstructed  in  1851,  old  copper  coins 
of  the  reign  of  the  Georges,  and  some  even  of  as  old  date  as 
1612,  were  taken  from  the  floors  and  ceilings,  where  they  had 
lain  perdu  since  dropped  by  a  careless  functionary,  or  perhaps 
from  the  breeches  pocket  of  my  Lord  Howe.  Ancientdook- 
ing  bottles  of  Holland  make  were  found  too,  suggestive  of 
Schnapps  and  Dutch  courage.  Burnet  perchance  may  have 
inherited  the  weakness  with  his  Dutch  blood. 

After  the  adoption  of  the  State  Constitution  it  became  a 
"  Government  House."  The  easterly  half  was  occupied  by  the 
Governor  and  Council,  Secretary  of  State  and  Eeceiver-General. 
The  other  half  was  the  dwelling  of  the  Treasurer.  The  State 
was  inclined  to  keep  up  the  character  of  the  Province  House 
by  making  it  the  governor's  official  residence,  and  voted  sums 
of  money  for  the  purpose.  In  1796  the  Commonwealth,  being 
then  engaged  in  building  the  present  State  House,  sold  the  Pro- 
vince House  to  John  Peck,  but  it  reverted  back  to  the  State  in 
1799,  Peck  being  unable  to  fulfil  his  part  of  the  contract. 

Governor  Caleb  Strong  occupied  it  after  his  election  in  1800. 
He  had  been  active  in  promoting  the  cause  of  the  Eevolution, 
and  took  part  in  all  the  prominent  measures  of  organization  of 
the  body  politic  at  its  end.  He  was  in  the  United  States 
Senate  in  1789-97.      In  1812  he  was  again  elected  governor. 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND    PROVINCE   HOUSE.  247 

Being  a  strong  Federalist,  lie  refused,  to  answer  the  calls  made 
upon  liim  for  troops  by  the  general  government,  but  took 
measures  to  protect  the  State  from  invasion.  The  old  revolu- 
tionary works  at  South  Boston  were  strengthened  and  manned, 
and  a  new  one  erected  on  Noddle's  Island  in  1814,  which  bore 
the  governor's  name.  This  conflict  between  State  and  Federal 
authority  forms  a  curious  chapter  in  the  political  history  of 
the  times. 

Governor  Strong  is  described  as  a  tall  man,  of  moderate  ful- 
ness ;  of  rather  long  visage,  dark  complexion,  and  blue  eyes. 
He  wore  his  hair  loose  combed  over  his  forehead,  and  slightly 
powdered.  He  had  nothing  of  the  polish  of  cities  in  his  de- 
meanor, but  a  gentle  complaisance  and  kindness. 

In  1811  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital  was  incorpo- 
rated and  endowed  by  the  State  with  the  Province  House. 
The  trustees  of  the  institution  leased  the  estate,  in  1817,  to 
David  Greenough  for  ninety-nine  years,  who,  erecting  the 
stores  in  its  front,  converted  it  to  the  uses  of  trade.  It  be- 
came a  tavern,  a  hall  of  negro  minstrelsy,  and  was  finally 
destroyed  by  fire  in  October,  18G4. 

Some  relics  of  this  venerable  and  historic  structure  remain. 
The  Indian  came  into  the  possession  of  Henry  Greenough,  Esq., 
of  Cambridge,  and  was  permitted  to  remain  some  time  in  the 
hands  of  the  late  Dr.  J.  C.  Warren,  of  Park  Street,  but  at  his 
decease  no  traces  of  it  could  be  discovered,  much  to  the  regret 
of  its  owner.  Perhaps  it  is  still  in  existence.  The  royal  arms 
are  in  the  possession  of  the  Historical  Society.  Colonel  Ben- 
jamin Perley  Poore  became  the  possessor  of  much  of  the  cedar 
wainscot  and  of  the  porch.  The  panelling  he  has  devoted  to 
the  finish  of  a  pre-Ilevolutionary  suite  of  rooms,  while  the  porch 
forms  the  entrance  to  his  garden  at  Indian  Hill,  West  Newbury. 

The  grand  staircase  down  which  Hawthorne's  ghostly  pro- 
cession descended  led  to  apartments  devoted  to  domestic  uses. 
The  massive  oaken  timbers  were  memorials  of  the  stanch  and 
solid  traits  of  the  builders.  Here  Shute  brooded  and  fumed; 
here  Burnet  wrote  and  Bernard  plotted;  and  here  Gage  and 
Howe  planned  and  schemed  in  vain.      All  have  passed  away. 


248  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

The  Blue  Bell  and  Indian  Queen  tavern  stood  on  each  side 
of  a  passage  formerly  leading  from  Washington  Street  to  Haw- 
ley.  Nathaniel  Bishop  kept  it  in  1G73,  which  entitles  it  to  he 
ranked  with  the  old  ordinaries.  The  officers  from  the  Province 
House  and  Old  South  often  dropped  in  to  take  their  cognac 
neat.  The  landlady,  at  this  time,  a  stanch  whig,  had  the  re- 
pute of  an  amazon.  Some  officers  one  day,  exciting  her  ire  by 
calling  for  brandy  under  the  name  of  "  Yankee  blood,"  she 
seized  a  spit  and  drove  them  from  her  house.  Zadock  Pomeroy 
kept  the  inn  in  1800.  About  1820  the  Washington  Coffee 
House  was  erected  in  place  of  the  Indian  Queen,  but  it,  too, 
has  vanished.  It  will  be  remembered  as  the  starting-place  of 
the  old  Roxbury  Hourlies.  No.  158  indicates  the  site,  corre- 
sponding with  the  Parker  Block. 

Another  Indian  Queen  was  in  Bromfield's  Lane,  since  Street. 
Isaac  Trask  kept  it,  and  after  him  Nabby,  his  widow,  until 
1816.  Simeon  Boyden  was  next  proprietor;  Preston  Shepard 
in  1823,  afterwards  of  the  Pearl  Street  House ;  and  W.  Mun- 
roe.  This  was  the  late  Bromfield  House,  now  occupied  by  a 
handsome  granite  block  styled  the  Wesleyan  Association  Build- 
ing. It  was  a  great  centre  for  stages  while  they  continued  to 
run.  The  likeness  of  an  Indian  princess  gave  the  name  to  old 
and  new  tavern. 

The  Bromfield  House  site  becomes  important  as  the  birth- 
place of  Thomas  Gushing,  lieutenant-governor  under  Hancock 
and  Bowdoin,  friend  and  coworker  in  the  patriot  cause  with 
Adams,  Otis,  and  Warren.  The  British  Ministry  ascribed  great 
influence  to  Gushing.  He  was  member  both  of  the  Provincial 
and  Continental  Congresses,  and  commissary-general  in  1775. 
Governor  Gushing  was  a  member  of  the  Old  South.  He  died 
in  1788,  and  was  buried  in  the  Granary  Burying  Ground. 

A  few  paces  from  the  site  of  the  old  Indian  Queen,  or,  ac- 
cording to  the  present  landmarks,  166  Washington  Street,  Avas 
the  abode  of  the  gifted  Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.,  and  the  birthplace 
of  his  son,  Josiah,  who  is  best  known  to  Boston  as  the  greatest 
of  her  chief  magistrates.  Uriah  Cotting,  Charles  Bulfinch,  and 
Josiah  Quincy  are  the  triumvirate  who,  by  waving  their  magi- 


THE   OLD    SOUTH   AND   PROVINCE   HOUSE.  249 

cian's  wand,  changed  Boston  from  a  straggling  provincial  town 
into  a  metropolis. 

Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.,  died  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-one,  while 
returning  from  a  voyage  to  England,  undertaken  partly  for  the 
benefit  of  his  health.  He  was  constitutionally  delicate,  and  his 
mental  strength  far  exceeded  his  physical.  He  was  chosen,  with 
John  Adams,  by  Captain  Preston,  to  defend  him  on  his  trial 
for  the  Massacre  in  King  Street,  and  did  defend  him  with  all 
his  ability,  notwithstanding  his  own  father  warmly  opposed  his 
undertaking  it.  Mr.  Quincy  was  possessed  of  high  oratorical 
powers.  The  phlegmatic  John  Adams  named  him  the  Boston 
Cicero ;  his  political  writings,  begun  in  the  Boston  Gazette  of 
October,  1767,  are  full  of  fire  and  patriotic  fervor.  "When  in 
England  he  was,  with  Franklin,  singled  out  for  a  brutal  allusion 
by  Lord  Hillsborough,  who  declared  they  "  ought  to  be  in 
Newgate  or  at  Tyburn."  His  strength  proved  unequal  to  the 
voyage,  and  he  breathed  his  last  within  sight  of  his  native  land 
only  a  few  days  after  the  battle  of  Lexington. 

"  Ask  ye  what  thoughts 
Convulsed  his  soul,  when  his  dear  native  shores, 
Thronged  with  the  imagery  of  lost  delight, 
Gleamed  on  his  darkening  eye,  while  the  hoarse  wave 
Uttered  his  death  dirge,  aud  no  hand  of  love 
Might  yield  its  tender  trembling  ministry  ?  " 

Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  Boston 
lawyer  who  put  up  a  sign-board  over  his  door. 

Josiah  Quincy  succeeded  Mr.  Phillips  as  mayor  in  1823,  over 
his  competitor  Otis.  We  have  paid  a  tribute  to  his  forecast  and 
enterprise  already.  To  him  is  due  the  establishment  of  Houses 
of  Industry  and  Reformation.  Commercial  Street  completed 
his  transformation  of  the  Town  Dock  region,  ruder  him  the 
Fire  Department  was  founded  in  1Sl'7.  After  a  long  ami  useful 
public  service  in  city,  State,  and  national  councils,  Mr.  Quincy 
took  the  presidency  of  Harvard  University  in  L829,  where  he 
continued  in  office  until  1845. 

At  the  annual  festival  of  the  public  schools  of  Boston  in 
Faneuil  Hall,  August,  L826,  and  on  completion  of  the  granite 
market-house,  Judge  Story,  being  present,  volunteered  the  fol- 
11* 


250  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

lowing  sentiment,  — "  May  the  fame  of  our  honored  mayor 
prove  as  durable  as  the  material  of  which  the  beautiful  market- 
house  is  constructed."  On  which,  quick  as  light,  the  mayor 
responded,  "That  stupendous  monument  of  the  wisdom  of  our 
forefathers,  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States;  in  the 
event  of  a  vacancy,  may  it  be  raised  one  story  higher."  *  This 
pun  has  also  been  attributed  to  Edward  Everett. 

Benjamin  Hichborn,  another  Revolutionary  patriot,  next  oc- 
cupied the  premises  made  vacant  by  the  Quincys.  He  was  a 
graduate  of  Harvard,  and  an  emineut  member  of  the  Suiiblk 
bar.  For  his  zeal  in  his  country's  cause  he  was  imprisoned  on 
board  a  British  vessel,  the  Preston,  lying  in  Boston  harbor. 
Mr.  Hichborn  was  a  Jeffersonian  Democrat.  He  was  colonel 
of  the  Cadets  in  1778,  and  marched  at  their  head  into  Bhode 
Island.  In  the  year  following  he  had  the  misfortune  to  be 
connected  with  an  unfortunate  accident  which  caused  the  death 
of  his  friend,  Benjamin  Andrews.  The  gentlemen  were  exam- 
ining some  pistols,  Mrs.  Andrews  being  present.  One  of  the 
weapons,  incautiously  handled,  was  discharged,  taking  effect  in 
Mr.  Andrews's  head,  causing  death  in  a  few  minutes. 

*  Quiucy's  Life. 


FKOM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  HOUND  FORT  HILL.     251 


CHAPTER   IX. 

FROM   THE    OLD    SOUTH    ROUND    FORT   HILL. 

Birthplace  of  Franklin.  —  James  Boutineau.  —  Bowdoin  Block.  —  Hawley 
Street.  —  Devonshire  and  Franklin  Streets.  —  Joseph  Barrell.  —  The  Ton- 
tine. —  Boston  Library.  —  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross.  —  Bishop  Cheve- 
rus.  —  Federal  Street  Theatre.  —  Some  Account  of  Early  Theatricals  in 
Boston.  —  Kean,  Finn,  Maeready,  etc.  —  John  Howard  Paine.  —  Federal 
Street  Church.  —  The  Federal  Convention.  —  Madam  Scott.  —  Robert 
Treat  Paine. — Thomas  Paine. — Congress  Street. — Quaker  Church  and 
Burying-Grouncl.  —  Sketcli  of  the  Society  of  Friends  in  Boston.  —  Mer- 
chants' Hall.  —  Governor  Shirley's  Funeral.  —  Fire  of  1760.  —  Pearl  Street. 
—  The  Ropewalks.  —  The  Grays.  —  Conflicts  between  the  Rope-Makers 
and  the  Regulars.  — Pearl  Street  House.  —  Spurzheim.  — Washington  Alls- 
ton.  —  Theophilus  Parsons.  —  T.  H.  Perkins.  —  Governor  Oliver.  —  Quincy 
Mansion.  —  Governor  Gore.  — Liverpool  Wharf.  — Tea  Party  and  Incidents 
of.  —  The  Sconce.  —  Governor  Andros  Deposed.  —  Suu  Tavern.  —  Fort 
Hill. 

WE  enter  on  Milk  Street,  the  ancient  Fort  Street,  con- 
ducting from  the  governor's  house  to  the  Sconce,  or 
South  Battery,  —  a  route  we  now  propose  to  follow. 

Before  we  come  to  Hawley  Street  we  see  a  granite  edifice 
witli  "Birthplace  of  Franklin"  standing  out  in  bold  relief 
from  the  pediment.  No  new  light  has  been  shed  upon  this 
interesting  question  since  we  left  the  Blue  Ball.  It  is  enough 
that  we  honor  the  philosopher's  name  in  many  public  places, 
no  locality  may  claim  him.  Apropos  of  Franklin,  when  he 
was  at  the  court  of  his  most  Christian  Majesty,  he  soon  became 
the  rage,  not  only  of  court  circles,  but  of  the  capital.  Presents 
flowed  in  upon  him,  which  he,  with  ready  tact,  contrived  to 
share  with  his  fellow-commissioners,  so  as  to  avoid  the  appear- 
ance of  invidious  distinction.  Among  other  things,  there  came 
to  his  lodgings  a  superb  gift  of  fruits,  labelled  "  he  digne  frank- 
lin." "This  time,"  said  Silas  Deane,  "you  cannot  pretend  this 
is  not  for  you  alone."     "  Not  so,"  said  Franklin  ;  "  the  French- 


252 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


men  cannot  master  our  American  names  ;  it  is,  plainly,  Lee, 

Deane,  Franklin,  that  is  meant." 

Arthur  Lee,  Franklin's  fellow-commissioner,  composed  eight 

lines  of  the  famous  Liberty 
Song  of  John  Dickinson, 
which  the  latter  sent 'lames 
Otis,  upon  news  that  the 
Legislature  of  Massachu- 
setts refused  to  rescind  the 
resolve  to  send  a  circular 
letter  calling  a'  convention 
of  the  sister  colonies  to 
oppose  taxation  without 
representation.  It  was 
printed  in  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Chronicle,  July  4, 
1768,  and  is  the  earliest 
of  the  Revolutionary  lyrics 
that  holdly  speaks  of  in- 


FRAXKLIN  S   BIRTHPLACE. 


dependence  and  union. 

"  Then  join  hand  in  hand,  brave  Americans  all ; 
By  uniting  we  stand,  by  dividing  we  fall  ; 
In  so  righteous  a  cause  let  us  hope  to  succeed, 
For  Heaven  approves  of  each  generous  deed. 

Our  purses  are  ready,  — ■ 

Steady,  friends,  steady,  — 

Not  as  slaves,  but  as  freemen,  our  money  we  '11  give." 

The  old  house  here  represented  is  a  quaint  specimen  of  the 
old  order  of  buildings.  It  was  burnt  December  29,  1810, 
shortly  after  a  drawing  had  been  secured.  Old  Josiah  Frank- 
bin,  the  father  of  Benjamin,  was  a  native  of  England,  and  by 
trade  a  silk-dyer ;  he  became  a  respectable  soap-boiler  and 
tallow-chandler  in  Boston.  Benjamin  was  born  on  the  6th 
of  January,  1706,  and  is  upon  the  church  records  as  having 
received  baptism  the  same  day.  Upon  this  is  founded  the 
claim  of  the  old  house  to  be  the  place  of  his  nativity.  The 
sign  of  the  statue  of  Faust,  displayed  by  the  present  occupants 
of  the  Birthplace  of  Franklin,   is  the  same  used  by  Thomas 


FROM   THE   OLD   SOUTH   ROUND   FORT   HILL.  253 

and  Andrews  in  years  gone  by  at  the  old  stand  in  Newbury 
Street, 

Opposite  to  us,  and  just  below,  is  the  "Old  South  Block," 
built  upon  the  site  of  the  parsonage  in  1845.  Next  below 
is  Sewall  Block,  which  covers  the  site  of  the  mansion  of  James 
Boutineau,  a  royalist,  who  departed  from  Boston  in  the  train 
of  Howe.  Boutineau  married  Peter  Faneuil's  sister,  Susannah, 
and  was,  like  Faneuil,  descended  from  the  French  Huguenots. 
He  was  a  lawyer  and  managed  the  case  of  his  son-in-law,  Bob- 
inson,  —  the  same  who  assaulted  James  Otis  ;  his  house,  a  brick 
mansion,  stood  a  little  removed  from  the  street,  with  the  usual 
nagged  walk,  shaded  by  trees,  leading  up  to  it. 

"  Bowdoin  Block "  has  a  noteAvorthy  record.  It  stands  at 
the  east  corner  of  Hawley  Street,  once  known  as  Bishop's  Alley, 
probably  from  Bishop  of  the  Blue  Bell,  and  also  as  Boarded 
Alley,  —  from  its  having  been  boarded  over  at  one  time,  —  a 
name  our  readers  will  see  reproduced  in  a  lane  leading  from 
Hanover  Street  to  North.  On  the  corner  of  the  alley,  Seth 
A<  lams  once  carried  on  printing  ;  his  son  was  the  first  post- 
rider  to  Hartford,  and  rode  hard  to  carry  the  post  in  four  days. 
In  this  same  Boarded  Alley  was  established  the  first  theatre  in 
Boston,  of  which  more  hereafter. 

Morton  Place  was  named  at  the  request  of  Thomas  Kilhy 
Jones,  whose  wife  was  a  Morton,  and  not  for  Governor  Morton, 
as  has  been  supposed.  It  was  here  Payne,  father  of  John  How- 
ard, kept  a  school,  before  Morton  Place  was  constructed. 

On  the  site  of  Bowdoin  Block  was  another  old-time  mansion, 
which  belonged  at  one  time  to  James  Bowdoin,  son  of  the 
governor,  minister  to  Madrid  in  1808.  He  was  once  a  merchant 
in  State  Street,  occupying  a  row  of  three  stores  with  John 
Collin  Jones  and  Thomas  Russell.  He  was  a  man  of  highly 
cultivated  intellectual  tastes,  but  of  slender  habit,  He  filled 
many  offices  within  the  State  before  his  appointment  to  the 
court  of  Madrid.  -lames  Bowdoin  was  a  munificent  patron  of 
Bowdoin  College,  to  which  he  gave  lands,  money,  and  his  valu- 
able library  and  philosophical  apparatus  collected  abroad.  His 
widow,  also  his  cousin,  married  General  Henry  Dearborn,  and 


254  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

both  resided  there  until  their  decease.  This  house  was  also  the 
birthplace  of  the  Hon.  E.  C.  Winthrop  ;  it  became  afterwards 
a  hotel  called  the  Mansion  House. 

Devonshire  Street  has  swallowed  up  the  old  Theatre  Alley, 
which  conducted  by  a  narrow  and  by  no  means  straight  way 
to  Franklin  Street,  by  the  rear  of  the  old  Boston  Theatre,  — 
hence  its  name.  Besides  Pudding  Lane,  a  name  borrowed  from 
old  London,  Devonshire  Street,  meaning  that  part  lying  north 
of  Milk  Street,  has  been  known  as  Jolliffe's  Lane.  "Where  the 
new  Post-0 ffice  is  was  once  an  old  inn  called  the  Stackpole 
House,  first  the  mansion  of  William  Stackpole,  and  afterwards 
kept  as  a  tavern  by  Rouillard  of  the  Julien.  It  was  a  large 
brick  building,  —  end  to  the  street  with  court-yard  in  front. 

Previous  to  the  year  1792  all  the  lower  part  of  Franklin 
Street  was  a  quagmire.  No  greater  change  has  taken  place 
in  Boston  than  the  conversion  of  this  swamp  into  useful,  solid 
ground.  Joseph  Barrell,  Esq.,  whose  estate  was  on  Summer 
Street,  first  drained  the  slough  for  a  garden,  in  which  he  had 
built  a  fish-pond,  amply  stocked  Avith  gold-fish.  Where  the 
old  Boston  Theatre  stood  was  a  large  distillery,  and  behind  it 
a  pasture  extending  between  Summer  and  Milk  Streets  as  far 
as  Hawley  Street. 

This  Joseph  Barrell,  whose  handsome  grounds  and  mansion 
became  afterwards  the  property  of  Benjamin  Bussey,  was  a 
pioneer  in  the  northwest  coast  trade,  which  opened  such  a 
magnificent  field  to  American  commerce.  He  with  others 
fitted  out  the  first  Boston  vessels  which  doubled  Cape  Horn. 
They  were  the  Columbia,  Captain  Kendrick,  and  Washington, 
Captain  Gray.  The  captains  exchanged  vessels  at  sea,  and  the 
Columbia's  was  the  first  keel  that  passed  the  bar  of  the  great 
river,  which  now  bears  the  name  of  Captain  Gray's  vessel,  the 
Columbia. 

The  improvement  was  carried  out  by  Charles  Bulfinch,  Wil- 
liam Scollay,  and  Charles  Vaughan.  The  Legislature  refused 
to  incorporate  the  projectors  on  the  Tontine  plan,  but  the  im- 
provement was  afterwards  carried  successfully  through,  with 
some  modification.     A  block  of  sixteen  handsome   buildings, 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     255 

designed  for  dwellings,  was  erected  in  1793,  and  called  the 
"  Crescent,"  or  "  Tontine."  It  has  been  mentioned  that  this 
was  the  first  block  of  buildings  erected  in  Boston.  The  name 
"  Tontine  "  signified  an  association  for  building  purposes  on  the 
annuity  plan,  as  practised  in  Europe.  A  large  arch  penetrated 
the  block,  flanked  by  buildings  on  either  side,  standing  a  little 
in  advance  of  the  rest ;  these  were  ornamented  with  pilasters 
and  balustrade.  The  opposite  side  of  the  street  was  called 
Franklin  Place.  In  the  middle  of  the  street  was  an  enclosed 
grass-plot  three  hundred  feet  long,  containing  a  monumental 
urn  to  the  memory  of  Franklin,  then  recently  deceased.  This 
central  strip,  oval  in  form,  has,  like  the  Tontine-Crescent,  passed 
from  view ;  the  original  conveyance  prohibits  the  erection  of 
buildings  upon  it. 

The  rooms  over  the  arch  were  occupied  by  the  Historical 
Society  and  by  the  Boston  Library.  This  latter  was  incor- 
porated in  1794,  and  was  designed  to  be  somewhat  more  pop- 
ular in  its  character  than  either  the  Athenaaim  or  Historical 
Society.  It  grew  steadily  in  public  favor,  and  by  the  reversion 
of  its  shares  to  the  corporation  at  the  death  of  the  shareholder 
a  handsome  fund  was  in  time  obtained.  The  Library  sold  its 
property,  which  rested  upon  no  foundation,  —  the  arch  ex- 
cepted, —  and  removed  first  to  Essex  Street,  and  finally  to  the 
building  remodelled  for  them  in  Boylston  Place.  These  peculiar 
tenures  of  houses  without  land  arc  uncommon  in  this  country, 
but  are  said  to  be  rpiite  usual  in  Scotland,  where  separate 
stages  or  flats  of  the  same  building  are  owned  by  different 
proprietors. 

Looking  south  across  Franklin  Street,  we  see  a  noble  pile 
with  the  name  of  Cathedral  Buildings  on  its  lofty  front.  Tins 
is,  or  was,  consecrated  ground,  and  supported  the  weight 
of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  until  traffic  swept  it  from 
the  street.  A  brief  notice  of  the  origin  of  the  Romish  wor- 
ship in  Boston  has  been  given.  This  church  was  erected,  in 
lso."),  l>y  the  efforts  of  Rev.  Father  Matignon,  who  came  to 
Boston  in  1792,  and  of  John  Cheverus,  afterwards  Bishop  of 
the  diocese,  —  since  of  Montauban,  France,  —  who  followed  him 


256  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

in  1796.  The  Protestants  generously  contributed  to  build  an 
edifice  their  fathers  would  not  have  for  a  moment -tolerated.  It 
was  consecrated  by  Bishop  Carroll  of  Baltimore  when  completed. 
The  greatly  enhanced  value  of  the  ground  led  to  its  demoli- 
tion some  years  ago  ;  a  massive  and  lofty  temple  is  now  rearing 
its  huge  bulk  on  the  Neck,  mainly  founded  on  the  price  of  the 
Franklin  Street  Cathedral.  Beside  the  church,  the  Catholics 
erected  a  building  which  was  vised  as  a  convent  of  Ursidines. 
Boston  was  constituted  into  a  see  in  1810  which  included  all 
the  New  England  States.  A  curious  parallel  might  be  drawn 
in  the  occupation  of  the  house  of  the  French  Huguenots,  who 
fled  from  Catholic  persecution,  by  a  congregation  of  that  faith. 

Bishop  Cheverus,  afterwards  a  Cardinal,  was  sincerely  be- 
loved in  Boston  by  Protestants  and  Catholics  alike.  Otis  and 
Quincy  were  his  friends.  He  took  a  deep  interest  in  the  heated 
controversy  that  ensued  over  the  treaty  negotiated  with  Great 
Britain  by  Washington,  known  as  Jay's  Treaty. 

On  this  question  Harrison  Gray  Otis  came  before  the  people 
of  Boston  for  the  first  time  in  a  public  speech,  and  the  good 
Bishop  was  so  charmed  with  the  brilliant  oratory  of  the  speaker, 
that  he  threw  his  arms  around  Mr.  Otis,  and  exclaimed,  Avhde 
the  tears  ran  down  his  face,  "  Future  generations,  young  man, 
will  rise  up  and  call  thee  blessed." 

The  Federal  Street  was  the  first  regular  theatre  established 
in  Boston.  It  was  opened  February  3,  1794,  with  the  tragedy 
of  Gustavus  Yasa.  Thomas  Paine,  the  same  who  afterwards 
changed  his  name  to  Robert  Treat,  because  he  wanted  a  Chris- 
tian name,  -wrote  the  prologue,  having  been  adjudged  the  prize 
against  a  number  of  competitors.  Charles  Stuart  Powell  was 
the  first  manager.  The  theatre  was  also  called  the  Old  Drury, 
after  Drury  Lane,  London.  In  1798,  while  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Barrett  and  Harper,  the  house  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
leaving  only  the  brick  walls  standing.  The  theatre  was  soon 
rebuilt  and  opened  in  October,  1798,  under  the  management 
of  Mr.  Hodgkinson,  with  "Wives  as  they  Were."  Mr.  George 
L.  Barrett  conducted  the  next  season,  and  in  the  following 
year,  1800,  the  celebrated  Mrs.  Jones  appeared.     Mr.  Dickson 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL. 


257 


was  a  favorite  actor  at  this  house  until  his  retirement  from  the 
stage  in  1817.  In  this  year  the  managers  were  Powell,  Dick- 
son, and  Duff,  and  under  their  auspices  Edmund  Kean  first 
performed  in  Boston.      He  met  with  a  favorable  reception,  and 


BOSTON   THEATRE   AND    FRANKLIN    STREET. 


departed  with  a  full  purse  and  high  opinion  of  Boston,  which 
he  pronounced  "  the  Literary  Emporium  of  the  Western 
World." 

In  1825  Kean  renewed  his  visit  to  America,  but  the  Bos- 
tonians,  offended  at  his  supercilious  conduct  on  the  occasion  of 
Ins  second  engagement,  when  he  refused  to  play  to  a  thin 
house,  would  not  allow  him  to  utter  a  word,  and  he  was  finally 
driven  from  the  stage  by  a  shower  of  projectiles.  Henry  -I. 
Finn,  then  one  of  the  managers,  vainly  endeaArored  to  obtain  a 
hearing  for  the  tragedian,  who  stood  before  the  audience  in  the 
most  subrnissive  attitude,  while  his  countenance  was  a  picture 
of  rage  and  humiliation.  A  riotous  crowd  from  the  outside 
forced  their  way  into  the  house  and  destroyed  what  tiny  eould 
of  the  interior.     The  discomfited  Kean  sought  safety  in  flight. 

Finn  was  one  of  the  best  eccentric  comedians  Boston  lias 
ever  known.  Besides  being  an  actor,  he  was  a  clever  minia- 
ture painter.  He  first  appeared  at  the  Boston  Theatre  October 
22,  1822,  and  perished  in  the  ill-fated  Lexington  lost  in  Long 


258  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Island  Sound,  January  13,  1840.     Finn  usually  announced  his 
benefits  with  some  witty  morceau  like  this  :  — 

"  Like  a  grate  full  of  coals  I  burn, 
A  great  full  house  to  see  ; 
And  if  I  prove  not  grateful  too, 
A  great  fool  I  shall  be." 

Kean,  notwithstanding  his  fiasco  in  Boston,  was  possessed 
of  generous  impulses,  of  which  many  anecdotes  are  related  in 
illustration.  The  scene  on  the  night  of  his  retirement  from 
the  stage,  when  he  appeared  as  Othello,  at  Covent  Garden,  as- 
sisted by  his  son  Charles  as  Iago,  is  an  ever-memorable  event 
in  the  annals  of  the  stage.  Broken  down  by  emotion  ami 
physical  infirmity,  the  actor  had  to  be  borne  from  the  theatre  by 
his  son  to  a  neighboring  house.     He  survived  but  a  few  weeks. 

Edmund  Kean  was  noted  for  the  abuse  of  his  powers  by  in- 
dulgence in  the  social  glass.  He  had  a  weakness  to  be  thought 
a  classical  scholar,  and  would  cpiote  scraps  of  Latin  common- 
places. One  evening,  while  deep  in  a  nocturnal  orgie,  his  secre- 
tary, B.  Phillips,  tired  of  waiting  for  him,  sent  a  servant  to 
rej:>ort  the  situation  at  two  in  the  morning. 

Phillips.  What 's  Mr.  Kean  doing  now  1 

Waiter.  Making  a  speech  about  Shakespeare. 

Phillips.  He  's  getting  drunk,  you  had  better  order  the  carriage. 

(Half  past  two.) 

Phillips.  What 's  he  at  now  1 

Waiter.  He's  talking  Latin,  sir. 

Phillip>s.  Then  he  is  drunk.     I  must  get  him  away. 

Mrs.  Susanna  Bowson,  the  gifted  authoress  of  "  Charlotte 
Temple,"  appeared  at  the  Federal  Street  Theatre  in  September, 
1796.  In  March  of  the  year  following  her  play  of  "  Americans 
in  England  "  was  brought  out  at  this  house,  and  received  with 
great  favor.  Mrs.  Bowson  soon  sought  a  more  congenial  em- 
ployment, opening  in  the  early  part  of  1797  a  school  for  young 
ladies  in  Federal  Street  with  a  single  pupil.  Her  facile  pen 
was  equally  ready  in  prose  or  verse,  the  latter  covering  a  wide 
range  from  deep  pathos  to  stirring  martial  odes. 

Mrs.  Bowson's  remarkable  force  of  character  enabled  her  to 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     259 

rise  superior  to  the  deep-seated  prejudice  against  novel-writers 
and  actresses,  —  she  was  both,  —  and  to  command  not  only  the 
respect,  but  the  patronage  at  last  of  many  who  would  have 
looked  upon  an  association  with  her  at  one  time  as  contaminat  i  i  ig. 

Macready  made  his  first  appearance  before  a  Boston  audience 
at  this  theatre  in  the  character  of  Virginius ;  and  Boston  was 
also  his  place  of  refuge  after  the  lamentable  Astor  Place  Biot, 
in  New  York.  John  Howard  Payne  also  acted  here.  About 
1833  the  house  was  closed  as  a  theatre,  and  leased  to  the 
society  of  Free  Inquirers.  In  1831  the  "  Academy  of  Music," 
an  institution  for  the  culture  of  vocal  and  instrumental  music, 
obtained  possession.  Mr.  Powell  Mason  conducted  the  Acad- 
emy, and  the  name  of  the  theatre  was  now  changed  to  the 
"  Odeon."  Beligious  services  were  held  on  Sundays  by  Rev. 
William  M.  Bogers's  society  until  the  building  of  their  church 
on  "Winter  Street.  The  stage  was  again  cleared  for  theatrical 
performances  in  1846-47,  under  a  lease  to  Mr.  C.  R.  Thome. 
Pafayette  visited  the  Boston  Theatre  on  the  last  evening  of 
his  stay  in  1824.  An  entire  new  front  was  erected  on  Federal 
Street  in  1826,  and  an  elegant  saloon  added  with  many  interior 
improvements.  About  1852  the  theatre  property  was  sold,  and 
the  present  business  structure  erected  on  its  site  at  the  north- 
east corner  of  Franklin  and  Federal  Streets. 

Charles  Bulfinch  wras  the  architect  of  the  Boston  Theatre. 
It  was  built  of  brick,  was  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  long, 
sixty-one  feet  wide,  and  forty  feel  high.  An  arcade  projected 
from  tlic  front,  serving  as  a  carriage  entrance.  The  house  had 
tin'  appearance*  of  two  stories;  both  the  upper  and  lower  were 
arched,  with  square  windows,  those  of  the  second  stage  being 
the  most  lofty.  Corinthian  pilasters  and  columns  decorated 
front  and  rear.  Several  independent  outlets  afforded  read; 
egress.  The  main  entrance  was  in  front,  where,  alighting  under 
cover  from  their  carriages,  the  company  passed  through  an  open 
saloon  to  two  staircases  leading  to  corridors  at  the  back  of  the 
boxes.     The  pit  and  gallery  were  entered  from  the  sides. 

The  interior  was  circular  in  form,  the  ceiling  being  composed 
of  elliptic  arches  resting  on  Corinthian  columns.     There  were 


260  LANDMARKS  OF  BOSTON. 

two  rows  of  boxes,  the  second  suspended  "by  invisible  means. 
The  stage  was  flanked  by  two  columns,  and  across  Uie  opening 
were  thrown  a  cornice  and  balustrade  ;  over  tins  were  painted 
the  arms  of  the  United  States  and  of  Massachusetts,  blended 
with  histrionic  emblems.  From  the  arms  depended  the  motto, 
"All  the  World's  a  Stage."  The  walls  were  painted  azure,  and 
the  columns,  front  of  the  boxes,  etc.,  straw  and  lilac  color ;  the 
balustrades,  mouldings,  etc.,  were  gait,  and  the  second  tier  of 
boxes  were  hung  with  crimson  silk.  There  was  also  a  beautiful 
and  spacious  ballroom  at  the  east  end,  handsomely  decorated, 
with  small  retiring-rooms.  A  cuisine,  well  furnished,  was  be- 
neath. Such  was  the  first  play-house  Boston  ever  had. 
Cast  on  the  opening  night  of  the  Boston  Theatre  :  — 

NEW  THEATRE 

Will  open  on  Monday  next,  February  3d, 

With  the  truly  Republican  Tragedy, 

GUSTAVUS  VASA, 

THE   DELIVERER   OF   HIS   COUNTRY. 

All  the  characters  (being  the  first  time  they  were  ever  performed  by  the  present 
company)  will  be  personated  by  Messrs.  Baker,  Jones,  Collins,  Nel- 
son, Bartlett,  Powell,  S.  Powell,  and  Kenny  ;  Miss  Harrison, 
Mrs.  Jones,  Mrs.  Baker,  and  the  Child  by  Miss  Cor- 
nelia Powell,  being  her  first  appearance  on 
any  Stage.   To  which  will  be  added 
an  Entertainment  called 

MODERN    ANTIQUES  ; 
or, 

THE  MERRY  MOURNERS. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cockletop  by  Mr.  Jones  and  Miss  Baker.     The  other  characters 

by  Messrs.  S.  Powell,  Collins,  Nelson,  Baker,  etc,,  Mrs. 

Jones,  Mrs.  Baker,  and  Mrs.  Collins. 

The  history  of  the  Boston  stage  is  instructive,  as  showing  the 
gradual  development  of  a  change  of  feeling  in  regard  to  the 
establishment  of  theatres.  The  earliest  attempt  at  such  exhi- 
bitions was  a  performance  at  the  British  Coffee  House  of 
Otway's  Orphan,  in  1750,  followed  by  a  law  forbidding  them 
under  severe  penalties.  The  British  officers  had  their  theatre, 
in  1775,  in  Faneuil  Hall,  where  they  produced  the  "Blockade 
of  Boston,"  by  General  Burgoyne,  "  Zara,"  and  other  pieces. 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     2G1 

111  1792  a  company  of  comedians  from  London,  chief  among 
whom  was  Charles  Powell,  fitted  up  a  stable  in  Board  Alley 
(Hawley  Street)  into  a  theatre.  Governor  Hancock  was  highly 
incensed  at  this  infraction  of  the  laws,  and  made  it  the  subject 
of  special  comment  in  his  message  to  the  Legislature.  The 
representations  were  conducted  under  the  name  of  "  Moral 
Lectures,"  but  were  brought  to  a  summary  conclusion  by  the 
appearance  of  Sheriff  Allen  on  the  stage,  who  arrested  one  of 
the  performers  as  he  stood  in  the  guise  of  the  Crooked  Back 
Tyrant.  The  audience  sympathized  with  the  actors,  ami  amid 
great  excitement,  in  which  Hancock's  portrait  was  torn  from 
the  stage-box  and  trampled  under  foot,  the  play  ingloriously 
ended.  The  law,  however,  was  repealed,  before  the  year  was 
out,  maiidy  through  the  efforts  of  John  Gardiner,  while  Samuel 
Adams  and  H.  G.  Otis  opposed  its  abrogation.  Mr.  Otis,  how- 
ever, defended  the  captured  knight  of  the  buskin,  and  procured 
his  discharge  on  technical  grounds. 

Bill  at  the  opening  in  Board  Alley  :  — 

NEW  EXHIBITION  ROOM. 

Board  Alley. 

FEATS  OF  ACTIVITY. 

This  Evening,  the  10th  of  August,  will  lie  exhibited  Dancing  on  the  Tight 

Rope  by  Monsieurs  Placide  and    .Martin.     Mons.    Placide  will 

dance  a  Hornpipe  on  a  Tight  Rope,  play  the  Violin 

in  various  attitudes,  and  jump  over  a 

cane  backwards  and  forwards. 

INTRODUCTORY  ADDRESS, 

By  Mr.  Harper. 

SING  INC, 

By  Mr.  Wools. 

Various  feats  of  tumbling  by   Mons.    Placide  and   Martin,  who  will   make 

somersetts  backwards  over  a  table,  chair,  \'-. 

Mons.  Martin  will  exhibil  several  feats  on  the  Slack  Rope. 

In  the  course  of  the  Evening's  Entertainments  will  he  delivered 

THE   GALLERY   OF    PORTRAITS, 

or, 
THE  WOULD   AS   IT  GOES, 

I!v  Mr.  Harper. 

The  whole  to  conclude  with  a  Dancing  Pallet  called  The  Bird  Catcher,  with  the 

Minuet  de  la  Our  and  the  Gavot. 


262  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

John  Howard  Payne,  whose  memory  is  immortalized  hy 
"Home,  Sweet  Home,"  lived  in  a  little  old  wooden  building 
at  the  corner  of  Channing,  formerly  Berry  and  Sister  Streets. 
His  father,  at  one  time,  kept  a  school  in  his  dwelling,  which  he 
styled  the  Berry  Street  Academy.  Howard  showed  an  early 
inclination  for  theatricals,  and  was  the  leader  of  an  amateur 
company  composed  of  his  young  companions.  He  was  also 
possessed  of  a'martial  spirit,  and  organized  a  band  of  juvenile 
soldiers  of  his  own  age,  with  whom  he  paraded  the  streets, 
armed  with  muskets  borrowed  of  "Wallach,  the  Essex  Street 
Jew.  On  one  occasion,  when  drawn  up  on  the  Common,  they 
were  invited  into  the  line  and  passed  in  review  by  General 
Elliott.  The  company  was  called  the  Federal  Band,  and  their 
uniform,  blue  and  white,  was  copied  from  the  Boston  Light 
Infantry.  Payne  was  sent  to  Union  College,  Schenectady, 
through  the  generosity  of  a  noble-minded  Xew-Yorker.  His 
father's  death  occurring  while  he  was  at  college,  he  resolved 
to  try  the  stage,  and  made  his  first  appearance  at  the  Park 
Theatre  in  February,  1809,  as  Young  Norval.  He  astonished 
everybody,  and  went  the  round  of  American  theatres  with 
great  success.  He  went  to  England  in  1813,  suffering  a  brief 
imprisonment  at  Liverpool  as  an  American  alien.  After  a  time 
he  went  to  Paris,  and  devoted  himself  to  adapting  successful 
French  plays  for  the  London  stage.  He  witnessed  the  return 
of  Bonaparte  from  Elba,  and  the  scenes  of  the  "  Hundred 
Days."  His  future  life  was  one  of  trial,  vicissitude,  and  unre- 
quited effort.  The  plays  of  "  Therese,"  and  "  Clari,  the  Maid 
of  Milan,"  are  from  his  pen.  "  Home,  Sweet  Home,"  was  first 
sung  by  Miss  Tree,  sister  of  Mrs.  Charles  Kean,  and  procured 
her  a  wealthy  husband,  and  filled  the  treasury  of  Covent  Gar- 
den. Payne  afterwards  received  an  appointment  from  our  gov- 
ernment as  consid  at  Tunis.  He  died  in  1852.  "Who  knows 
thafr  "  Sweet  Home  "  was  not  the  plaint  of  his  own  heart,  sigh- 
ing for  the  scenes  of  his  youth  ] 

"  An  exile  from  home,  pleasure  dazzles  in  vain, 
Ah,  give  me  my  lowly  thatched  cottage  again  ; 
The  birds  singing  sweetly  that  came  to  my  call,  — 
Give  me  them,  and  that  peace  of  mind  dearer  than  all." 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL. 


263 


Another  abandoned  church-site  is  near.  The  Old  Presbyte- 
rian  Meeting-house  stood  on  the  north  corner  of  Federal  and 
Berry  Streets.  The  latter  has  changed  its  name  to  Planning, 
as  it  did  its  ancient  orthography, 
Bury  into  Berry.  The  founders 
of  this  church  were  Irish  Pres- 
byterians, and  their  first  house 
of  worship  was  a  barn,  which 
sufficed  until  they  were  able,  in 
1744,  to  build  a  neat  wooden 
edihce.  Governor  Hancock  pre- 
sented the  bell  and  vane  which 
had  belonged  to  the  Old  Brattle 
Street  Meeting-house.  The  old 
house  was  a  pattern  of  many  that 
may  still  be  seen  in  our  older 
New  England  villages. 

An  amusing  incident  is  related  OLD  federal  street  church. 
of  the  vane,  —  Hancock's  gift.  Colonel  Erving,  meeting  Rev. 
John  Moorhead,  directed  his  attention  to  the  fact  that  the 
vane  did  not  move,  but  remained  fixed  in  its  position.  "  Ay, 
I  must  see  to  it,"  said  the  honest  parson,  who  ran  Immediately 
to  the  mechanic  who  placed  the  vane  on  the  steeple.  A  fatiguing 
climb  to  the  top  revealed  that  the  fault  was  in  the  wind,  which 
had  remained  due  east  for  a  fortnight. 

Mr.  Moorhead,  the  first  pastor,  was  ordained  in  Ireland,  and 
was  installed  in  Boston  in  1730,  a  hundred  years  after  the  Bat- 
tlement. This  was  also  the  church  of  Jeremy  Belknap,  ami  of 
Dr.  "W".  E.  Channing,  for  whom  the  neighboring  streel  is  named. 

It  was  to  this  church  the  Convention  adjourned  from  the 
Old  State  House,  when  it  met  to  consider  the  adoption  of  the 
Eederal  Constitution,  January  9,  1788. 

"The  'Vention  <li<l  in  Boston  meet, 

But  State  House  COuld  licit  hold  ''In  ; 

So  then  they  wenl  to  Federal  Street. 
And  there  the  truth  was  told  Vm." 

Jeremy  Belknap  was  then  pastor  of  the  church.     John  Han- 


264  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

cock  was  president  of  the  Convention,  and  George  It.  Minot 
vice-president.  To  the  efforts  of  Hancock  is  largely  due  the 
adoption  of  the  instrument.  The  joy  of  the  people  at  the  rati- 
fication was  unbounded,  and  a  monster  procession  celebrated 
the  event,  in  which  the  mechanics  of  Boston,  who  had  taken  a 
lively  interest  in  the  proceedings,  bore  a  prominent  part.  The 
naval  hero,  John  Foster  Williams,  then  living  in  Leverett's 
Lane  (Congress  Street),  lent  his  aid  after  the  following  man- 
ner :  — 

"John  Foster  Williams,  in  a  ship, 
Joined  in  the  social  band,  sir  ; 
And  made  the  lasses  dance  and  skip 
To  see  him  sail  on  land,  sir  !  " 

In  1809  the  Federal  Street  society  erected  a  new  and  elegant 
house,  designed  by  Charles  Bulhnch.  It  was,  when  built,  the 
only  specimen  of  pure  Saxon-Gothic  architecture  in  Boston. 

In  1834  a  number  of  Polish  refugees  arrived  in  this  country, 
after  the  final  dismemberment  of  their  native  land.  One  .Sun- 
day Dr.  Channing  announced  that  a  collection  would  be  taken 
up  for  the  benefit  of  these  exiles.  The  call  was  nobly  responded 
to  ;  among  others,  Henry  Purkett,  a  member  of  the  Tea  Party, 
and  one  of  the  sterling  patriots  of  Eevolutionary  times,  sent 
his  check  couched  in  these  words  :  — 

"Pay  to  Count  Pulaski,  my  commander  at  the  battle  of  Brandy- 
wine,  his  brethren,  or  bearer,  one  hundred  dollars." 

Anciently  Federal  Street  was  known  as  Long  Lane,  but  from 
the  adoption  of  the  Federal  Constitution  was  known  by  its 
present  name.  What  was  true  of  the  lower  part  of  Franklin 
Street  is  equally  so  of  Federal.  There  was  once  a  sufficient 
depth  of  water  near  the  meeting-house  we  have  just  described 
for  smelts  to  be  taken.  Shaw  cites  Dr.  Channing  as  saying  he 
had  taken  these  fish  at  the  corner  of  Federal  and  Milk  Streets, 
and  another  authority  as  having  seen  three  feet  of  water  in 
Federal  Street. 

At  the  upper  end  of  Federal  Street,  next  the  corner  of  Mil- 
ton Place,  lived  Madam  Scott,  the  widow  of  Governor  Han- 
cock.    She  married  Captain   James   Scott  in  1796.     He  had 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     265 

been  long  employed  by  the  governor  as  master  of  a  London 
packet,  and  again,  after  the  peace,  sailed  as  master  of  the  Nep- 
tune, the  first  ship  of  a  regular  line  of  London  packets. 
Madam  Scott  outlived  her  husband  many  years,  retaining  her 
faculties  unimpaired  until  near  the  close  of  her  life.  She  died 
in  1830,  over  eighty.  She  was  the  daughter  of  Judge  Edmund 
Quincy,  of  JJraintree,  and  long  celebrated  for  her  wit  and 
beauty. 

Dorothy  Quincy  was  at  Lexington  with  her  affianced  husband 
(Hancock)  when  the  battle  of  Lexington  occurred,  and  looked 
out  upon  the  fearful  scenes  of  that  morning.  She  knew  Ear] 
Percy  well,  and  related  that  she  had  often  heard  him  drilling 
his  troops  of  a  morning  on  the  Common.  Lafayette  was  a 
favorite  with  her,  having  been  entertained  by  her  in  1781. 
When  the  Marquis  revisited  Boston,  in  1824,  his  first  call  was 
upon  Madam  Scott.  They  regarded  each  other  intently  for  a 
few  moments  without  speaking,  each  contemplating  the  ravages 
time  and  care  had  made  in  the  features  of  the  other. 

As  Lafayette  rode  into  town,  receiving  the  private  and  heart- 
felt homage  of  every  individual  of  the  immense  throng  that 
greeted  him,  he  perceived  his  ancient  hostess  of  more  than  forty 
years  before,  seated  at  a  balcony  on  Tremont  Street.  The 
General  directed  his  carriage  t:>  stop  before  the  house,  and,  rising 
to  his  feet,  with  his  hand  upon  his  heart,  made  her  a  graceful 
salutation,  which  was  as  heartily  returned.  This  little  episode 
was  loudly  applauded  by  the  spectators  of  (lie  interesting 
meeting. 

The  mansion  of  Robert  Treat  Paine,  the  eminent  lawyer, 
judge,  and  signer  of  our  Magna  Charta,  was  at  the  west  corner 
of  Milk  and  Federal  Streets.  The  house,  a  brick  one.  fronted 
on  Milk  Street,  and  appeared  in  its  latter  days  guiltless  of 
paint.  It  was  a  large,  two-story,  gambrel  roof  structure,  with 
gardens  extending  back  some  distance  on  Federal  Street.  In 
the  yard  was  a  large  jack  with  a  turn-spit,  according  tn  the 
culinary  fashion  of  those  days.  In  this  house  Judge  Paine 
died  May  11,  1814.  A  Bostonian  by  birth,  pupil  and  usher 
of  the  Latin  School,  he  was  a  dele-ate  t<>  the  Provincial  Con- 
12 


266  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

gress  of  1774,  at  Philadelphia,  and  member  of  the  Continental 
Congress ;  lie  was  the  first  attorney-general  of  Massachusetts, 
and  member  of  the  State  Constitutional  Convention  ;  and  also 
judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  State.  Judge  Paine  con- 
ducted the  prosecution  of  Captain  Preston.  He  was  an  able 
and  witty  writer ;  as  a  man,  beloved  by  his  fellow-citizens  who 
honored  him  with  so  many  high  public  trusts.  He  was  enter- 
taining in  conversation,  but  subject  in  his  later  years  to  fits  of 
abstraction  from  winch  he  would  rouse  himself  with  a  pleasant 
smile  and  jest. 

The  younger  Eohert  Treat  Paine  was  one  of  those  brilliant 
geniuses  which  occasionally  illuminate  a  community  in  which 
wit  combined  with  sentiment  commands  a  high  value.  He  had 
a  decided  penchant  for  the  theatre,  and  married  an  actress, — 
Miss  Baker.  He  was  first  caUed  Thomas,  but,  strongly  dislik- 
ing the  appellation  of  the  great  infidel  Thomas  Paine,  he  ap- 
pealed to  the  Legislature  to  give  kim  a  "  Christian "  name. 
He  had  keen  a  patron  of  the  little  theatre  in  Board  Alley, 
and  assisted  with  his  pen  at  the  inauguration  of  the  Boston 
Theatre.  His  father,  as  we  know,  lived  kard  by,  and  young 
Tkomas  was  scarcely  of  age  wken  lie  wrote  the  successful  com- 
position. The  greatest  of  his  political  lyrics,  "  Adams  and 
Liberty,"  was  written  at  the  request  of  the  Massachusetts  Char- 
itable Fire  Society.  As  first  composed,  all  mention  of  Wash- 
ington was  —  inadvertently,  no  douht  —  omitted.  Major  Ben 
Russell,  in  whose  house  Paine  happened  to  be,  interfered  when 
the  poet  was  akout  to  kelp  himself  from  the  sidehoard,  humor- 
ously insisting  that  he  should  not  quench  his  thirst  until  he 
had  in  an  additional  stanza  repaired  the  oversight.  Paine 
thoughtfully  paced  the  room  a  few  moments,  suddenly  asked 
for  a  pen,  and  wrote  the  grand  lines  :  — 

"  Should  the  tempest  of  war  overshadow  our  land, 
Its"bolts  could  ne'er  rend  Freedom's  temple  asunder  ; 
For  unmoved  at  its  portal  would  Washington  stand, 
And  repulse  with  his  breast  the  assaults  of  the  thunder. 

His  sword  from  the  sleep 

Of  its  scabbard  would  leap, 
And  conduct  with  its  point  every  flash  to  the  deep  ; 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     267 

For  ne'er  shall  the  sons  of  Columbia  be  slaves, 

While  the  earth  bears  a  plant,  or  the  sea  rolls  its  waves." 

The  younger  Paine  died  in  1811,  three  years  before  his 
father.  Part  of  the  garden  lying  on  Federal  .Struct  became 
the  site  of  the  Fourth  Baptist  Church.  Church  and  dwelling 
long  ago  joined  the  shadowy  procession  of  vanished  landmarks. 
Father  and  son  were  both  buried  from  the  family  mansion. 

Before  the  occupancy  by  Judge  Paine,  this  house,  it  is  said, 
had  been  the  abode  of  Colonel  John  Erving,  Jr.,  a  merchant  of 
high  standing,  and  colonel  of  the  Boston  Regiment.  His  father, 
the  old  Colonel  John  Erving,  was  an  eminent  merchant  before 
him,  and  lived  in  Tremont  Row.  The  younger  Erving  was  son 
in-law  of  Governor  Shirley,  and  at  his  death  the  governor's 
funeral  took  place  from  the  house  of  his  relative,  Monday, 
April  1,1771.  A  long  procession  followed  the  remains  to  King's 
Chapel,  beneath  which  they  were  deposited.  The  Ancient  and 
Honorable  Artillery  Company,  commanded  by  Captain  Heath  ; :',: 
the  officers  of  the  Boston  Regiment,  in  full  regimentals  with  the 
usual  mourning  of  black  crape,  attended.  On  the  coffin  were 
placed  the  two  swords  of  the  deceased,  crossed.  The  pall  was 
supported  by  Governor  Hutchinson,  Lieutenant-Governor  Oliver, 
two  judges  of  the  Superior  Court,  and  two  of  the  Honorable 
Council.  Dr.  Caner  preached  the  funeral  sermon,  after  which 
the  body  was  interred,  the  military  firing  three  volleys,  and  a 
detachment  of  the  Train  of  Artillery  as  many  rounds  as  the 
deceased  had  lived  years,  namely,  sixty-live.  The  governor 
will  be  remembered  as  a  patron  of  King's  Chapel,  and  it  was 
doubtless  his  expressed  wish  to  be  buried  there. 

In  that  part  of  Congress  Street  lying  ninth  of  Water  Street 
were  the  old  Quaker  Church  and  Burying  Ground,  The  latter 
was  situated  opposite  Lindall  Street,  and  was  the  fourth  in  the 
town  in  antiquity,  having  been  established  in  1709.  The  Friends 
built  a  brick  meeting-house  on  that  part  of  their  lot  subsequently 
occupied  by  the  Transcript,  and  later  by  J.  E.  Farwell  &  Co. 
The  house  was  nearly  destroyed  in  the  greal  fire  of  L  760,  but 
was  repaired  the  same  year.   Though  once  numerous,  only  eleven 

*  Afterwards  Major-Genera]  I  Lath. 


268  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

of  the  sect  remained  in  Boston  in  1744  ;  their  worship  in  this 
house  ceased  about  1808,  and  in  1827  the  property  was  sold. 
The  remains  were  exhumed  by  the  Friends  and  taken  to  Lynn, 
where  they  again  received  burial.  No  interments  were  made 
in  this  cemetery  later  than  about  1815.  From  tune  to  time  the 
relics  of  the  Quakers  have  been  thrown  to  the  surface  by  the 
excavations  on  and  near  this  site.  At  a  later  period  the 
Friends  erected  a  small  stone  house  in  Milton  Place,  Federal 
Street,  which  is  still  existing;  but  in  1848  it  was  conjectured 
there  was  not  a  single  Quaker  in  Boston;  in  1855  none  were 
resident  here,  ■ —  the  society,  like  the  French  Church,  had  be- 
come extinct.  The  house  in  Milton  Place  was  once  protected 
by  a  fence,  and  shaded  by  handsome  trees,  —  all  gone,  and  on 
the  front  a  huge  sign  of  "  Wool  "  is  erected. 

The  Quakers  have  the  distinction  of  having  built  the  first 
brick  meeting-house  in  Boston  ;  it  was  in  Brattle  Street,  and 
dates  back  to  1692.  This  was  disused  in  1708,  and  the  society 
removed  to  Congress  Street.  The  sect  seems  to  have  flourished 
under  persecution,  dying  out  when  it  had  ceased.  The  Quakers 
suffered  every  species  of  cruelty  in  establishing  their  faith  in 
Boston.  Scourging  and  imprisonment  were  the  mild  means  of 
prevention  first  employed ;  banishment  and  the  loss  of  an  ear 
were  subsequently  decreed,  —  at  least  three  persons  lost  this 
useful  member  by  the  hands  of  the  public  executioner  about 
1658.  Even  under  this  severity  the  Quakers  continued  to  in- 
crease and  flourish.  Selling  them  into  slavery  was  tried  and 
failed,  and  the  death  penalty  was  applied  as  a  last  resort.  Four 
of  the  persecuted  sect  were  hanged,  and  but  for  the  fear  of  in- 
tervention by  the  crown  the  Puritans  would  have  cut  them  off 
root  and  branch.  This  occurred  in  1660,  rather  more  than  two 
centuries  ago.  It  must  be  remarked,  however,  that  some  of  the 
observances  of  the  early  Quakers  would  not  be  tolerated  even 
now. 

Congress  Street  has  been  mentioned  as  the  headquarters  of 
the  Anthology  Club,  the  first  purely  literary  society  we  have 
an  account  of  since  the  old  war. 

In  Revolutionary  times  clubs  were  quite  numerous  in  Boston, 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     2G9 

and  formed  the  nuclei  around  which  the  patriots  gathered.  One 
of  the  earliest  of  these  was  the  Whig  Club,  of  which  James  Otis, 
Dr.  Church,  Dr.  Warren,  Dr.  Young,  Richard  Derby  of  Salon, 
Benjamin  Kent,  Nathaniel  Barber,  William  Mackay,  Colonel 
Bigelow  of  Worcester,  and  a  few  others  were  members.  They 
corresponded  with  Wilkes,  Colonel  Barre,  Saville,  and  other 
leaders  of  the  opposition  in  Parliament.  Civil  Bights  and  the 
British  Constitution  were  the  standing  subjects  of  discussion. 

In  1777-78  there  was  another  club,  composed  of  young 
men  fresh  from  college,  among  whom  were  Bufus  King,  Chris- 
topher Core,  William  Eustis,  Royal  Tyler,  Thomas  Dawes, 
Aaron  Dexter,  etc.  They  met  in  Colonel  Trumbull's  rooms  at 
the  corner  of  Court  and  Brattle  Streets,  and  discussed  politics, 
literature,  and  war. 

The  building  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Water  and  Congress 
Streets  Avas  formerly  called  Merchants'  Hall,  and  in  it  were 
kept  the  United  States  Post-Otfice,  and  Merchants'  Exchange 
in  1829.  The  new  edifice  designed  for  the  former  will  there- 
fore he  the  second  location  upon  the  same  street.  The  Post- 
Office  occupied  the  lower  floor.  Aaron  Hill  was  the  post- 
master, with  eight  clerks,  and  one  penny-postman.  Topliff's 
Beading  Boom  shared  the  lower  apartment  with  the  Post-Office, 
and  contained  all  mercantile  intelligence  useful  to  merchants 
"  where  they  most  do  congregate." 

Upon  this  same  spot  once  stood  an  old  gambrel-roofed  house 
with  diamond-paned  windows,  a  patriarch  among  its  fellows. 
On  the  front  was  a  bull's  head  and  horns,  from  which  the  house 
was  known  as  the  Bull's  Head.  Over  opposite  was  Horn  Lane, 
since  Bath  Street.  This  was  the  habitation  of  George  Robert 
Twelves  Ilewes,  a  member  of  the  Tea  Party.  His  father  was 
a  glue-maker,  soap-boiler,  tanner,  tallow-chandler,  ami  perhaps 
filled  up  his  leisure  with  other  employments,  Young  Hewes 
was  baptized  at  the  Old  South,  and  had  a  considerable  share 
in  the  tumults  worked  up  by  the  Boston  mechanics.  He  lived 
to  be  ninety-eight  years  nil,  retaining  a  clear  intellect  until 
near  the  end  of  his  long  life-journey. 

Robert  Hewes's  elder  brother,  Shubael  Ilewes,  was  Butcher- 


270 


LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 


Master-General  in  the  town  while  Howe  held  possession,  and  at 
one  time  during  the  siege  six  head  of  cattle  was  the,entire  stock 
in  his  hands  for  troops  or  inhabitants.  His  butcher-shop  was 
at  the  south  corner  of  "Washington  Street  and  Harvard  Place, 
opposite  the  Old  South,  in  an  old  building  with  a  projecting 
upper  story.  A  slaughter-house  was  connected  with  the  estab- 
lishment. People  of  wealth  and  position  were  glad  to  obtain 
the  rejected  portions  of  the  slaughtered  animals  during  the 
investment  of  the  town. 


The  old  Julien  House  must  ever  remain  an  object  of  interest 
to  all  gastronomers.  It  was  called  "  Julien's  Eestorator,"  and 
was  the  first  establishment  noticed  with  this  distinctive  title  ; 
all  the  rest  were  taverns  or  boarding-houses.  M.  Jean  Baptiste 
Julien  was  the  inventor  of  that  agreeable  jwtnge  which  bears  bis 
name.  He  came  to  this  country  with  the  celebrated  Dubuque, 
who  was  a  refugee  from  the  French  Eevolution.  Dubuque 
occupied  for  a  time  the  Shirley  mansion  in  Eoxbury.  The  old 
house  with  its  gables,   overhanging  upper  stories,  and  huge 


FROM   THE   OLD    SOUTH   ROUND    FORT    HILL.  271 

chimney  was  taken  down  in  1824,  and  succeeded  by  Julien, 
afterwards  Congress,  Hall.  Its  site  was  once  a  tanyard.  After 
M.  Julien's  death  in  1805  his  widow  succeeded  him,  keeping 
the  house  for  ten  years.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  built 
about  1760. 

That  part  of  Congress  Street  lying  south  of  Milk  was 
formerly  Green  Lane,  and  in  1732  was  named  Atkinson  Street, 
from  an  old  family  whose  lands  it  passed  through.  The  ancient 
proprietors  of  the  soil,  who  gave  their  lands  to  make  our  high- 
ways, did  not  stipulate  that  the  original  names  should  remain 
unchanged,  like  the  far-seeing  Chief  Justice  Sewall.  One  in- 
stance is  mentioned  of  an  individual  who  had  lived  on  eight 
different  streets  within  fifty  years,  but  had  never  moved  from 
his  original  dwelling.  Hence  the  maps  of  Boston  at  various 
periods  bear  but  little  resemblance  to  each  other;  and  he  who 
visits  only  occasionally  distant  localities  finds  himself  lost. 
The  happy  expedient  was  hit  upon  of  renewing  some  of  the 
old  names  in  the  new  part  of  the  city,  and  we  have  Newbury 
and  Marlborough,  where  they  may  well  bailie  some  future  in- 
quirer. In  Green's  Barracks  in  Atkinson  Street  were  quartere  I 
part  of  the  14th  Royal  Regiment  at  the  time  of  the  Massacre. 

As  we  are  now  in  the  route  of  the  Tea  Party,  we  will  con- 
tinue with  it  through  Pearl  Street.  Before  taking  leave  of 
Milk  Street,  however,  we  must  remark  that  it  had  some  other 
residents  not  unknown  to  fame.  Below  us  is  Oliver  Street, 
named  for  that  family.  The  quarters  of  General  Howe  were  in 
a  house  at  the  corner  of  Oliver  and  Milk  Streets.  To  him, 
probably,  was  confided  the  immediate  charge  of  the  troops  and 
works  in  and  around  Fort  Hill. 

In  Milk  Street  was  the  residence  of  Thomas  Flucker,  Secre- 
tary of  the  Province  under  Hutchinson,  whose  name  is  seen 
appended  to  the  official  papers  of  that  interesting  period. 

Flucker's  daughter,  Lucy,  married  General  Knox.  We  have 
seen  her  sharing  the  privations  of  camp  life  with  her  husband 
wherever  his  duty  called  him.  She  was  a  lovely  and  highly 
accomplished  woman,  contributing  greatly  to  the  little  female 
circle  around  the  American  headquarters.     Through  this  mar- 


272  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

riage  Knox  became  possessed  of  a  large  estate  at  Thomaston, 
Me.,  named  for  General  John  Thomas. 

Admiral  Graves,  of  the  fleet,  seems  to  have  preferred  snug 
quarters  ashore  to  the  cabin  of  the  flagship,  for  he  took  up  his 
residence  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Pearl  and  High  Streets, 
where  he  might  have  ready  access  to  his  shipping.  The  admi- 
ral, it  wdl  be  remembered,  was  exempted,  with  Gage,  from 
pardon  by  the  Provincial  Congress. 

The  great  tire  of  March  20,  17 GO,  which  began  at  the  Brazen 
Head,  in  Cornhill,  consumed  every  house  on  the  north  side  of 
Milk  Street,  from  Congress  Street  to  the  water,  and  on  the 
opposite  side  it  swept  all  before  it  —  the  dwelling  of  Secretary 
Oliver  and  a  few  tenements  excepted  —  to  Fort  Hill.  The 
Battery,  or  Sconce,  took  fire  and  blew  up,  notwithstanding  a 
large  part  of  the  powder  was  thrown  into  the  harbor,  Governor 
Hutchinson  personally  assisting  in  this  labor.  All  the  region 
now  known  as  Liberty  Square  was  burnt  over,  —  shops,  ware- 
houses, and  the  shipyard  that  has  been  noted  ;  so  that  from 
Devonshire  Street  to  the  water's  edge,  from  Milk  Street  to  the 
north  side  of  State  Street,  scarcely  a  house  remained  standing. 

Oliver  Street  was  very  badly  paved  with  cobble-stones  some 
time  before  the  Bevolution,  as  far  as  the  Wendell  and  Oliver 
Houses,  beyond  which  there  was  no  pavement.  High,  and  all 
the  neighboring  Streets,  were  unpaved,  as  late  as  1808.  At 
this  time  there  was  a  brick  sidewalk  on  the  north  side  of  Pearl 
Street,  but  none  on  the  other,  and  some  gentlemen  caused  a 
plank  walk  to  be  laid  from  High  Street  up  the  hill  to  their 
residences  at  the  top.  The  old  E  evolutionary  fort  was  levelled 
and  converted  into  a  mall  since  1797,  the  ground  lying  around 
it  remaining  in  possession  of  the  town  until  after  1800. 

Kilby  Street,  noticed  at  its  outlet  into  State,  was  named  for 
Christopher  Kilby,  an  eminent  Boston  merchant,  on  account  of 
his  liberality  to  the  sufferers  by  the  great  fire  of  1760,  when 
the  street  was  newly  laid  out  and  widened.  Mr.  Charles  W. 
Tuttle  s;vys  a  descendant  of  Christopher  Kilby  married  the 
seventh  Duke  of  Argyle,  grandfather  of  the  Marquis  of  Lome, 
lately  married  to  the  Princess  Louise  of  England.  Kilby  re- 
sided in  Queen  Street. 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     273 

On  the  map  of  1722  no  street  is  laid  down  where  the  present 
Pearl  Street  is,  but  a  number  of  ropewalks  extend  in  its  general 
direction  from  Cow  Lane  (High  Street)  towards  Milk.  In  1732 
the  alley  along  the  ropewalks  obtained  the  name  of  Hutchinson 
Street,  changed  in  1800  to  Pearl.  In  1771  there  was  but  a 
single  house  on  the  east  side,  —  that  of  Charles  Paxton,  Esq.,  an 
elegant  three-story  brick,  some  little  distance  from  Milk  Street. 
Paxton  was  one  of  the  revenue  commissioners,  and  was  not  for- 
gotten by  the  mob  which  called  at  Secretary  Oliver's.  He  had, 
however,  made  his  escape  with  his  valuables,  and  the  owner  of 
the  house  saved  his  property  by  proposing  to  broach  a  barrel 
of  punch  at  the  tavern  near  by.  The  mob  accepted  the  alter- 
native. Paxton  was  also  a  mandamus  councillor,  and  proscribed 
by  the  Provincial  Congress,  with  Jonathan  Sewall  and  Benja- 
min Hallowell. 

The  west  side  of  the  street  was  occupied  in  its  entire  length, 
at  the  date  mentioned,  by  seven  ropewalks  ;  these  were  all  burnt 
in  1794,  and  the  street  became  dotted  with  the  residences  of 
the  wealthy  and  refined. 

The  first  rope-maker  in  Boston  was  John  Harrison,  whoso 
"  rope-field "  was  on  Purchase  Street,  at  the  foot  of  Summer ; 
the  former  street  now  occupies  the  ground.  From  this  circum- 
stance arises  the  name  Purchase,  part  of  the  way  having  been 
thus  secured.  Harrison  first  exercised  this  calling  here  in  1G42, 
and  in  1663  appealed  to  the  selectmen  not  to  license  a  rival 
artisan  in  the  town.  Isaac  P  Davis,  whose  middle  name  is  the 
capital  letter  only,  was  the  last  rope-maker  in  Boston. 

The  Grays  were  the  most  celebrated  rope-makers  of  lioston. 
Edward,  the  senior,  first  served  an  apprenticeship  with  Barton, 
at  Barton's  Point,  now  West  Boston.  In  1712  he  began  making 
ropes  on  the  Pearl  Street  tract,  purchased  of  Theodore  Atkin- 
son. He  was  the  father  of  Harrison  Gray,  treasurer  of  the 
province,  and  of  John,  who  succeeded  to  the  ropewalks,  seven 
hundred  and  forty-four  feet  long,  warehouse,  dwelling,  and  out- 
houses, —  a  snug  patrimony. 

"  In  that  building  lon£  ami  low, 
With  its  windows  all  a-row, 
Like  the  port-holes  of  a  hulk, 
12*  R 


274  LANDMAHKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Human  spiders  spin  and  spin, 
Backward  down  their  threads  so  thin,     • 
Dropping  each  a  hempen  bulk." 

Harrison  Gray,  treasurer  of  the  colony,  and  grandfather  of 
Harrison  Gray  Otis,  was  proscribed,  and  had  his  estates  confis- 
cated after  his  flight  from  Boston.  It  is  stated,  in  Sabine's 
Loyalists,  that  in  August,  1775,  inquiry  was  made  in  the 
House  of  Eepresentatives  concerning  the  horse  and  chaise, 
formerly  Harrison  Gray's,  which  was  used  by  the  late  Dr. 
(General)  Warren,  and  came  into  the  hands  of  the  committee 
of  supplies  after  Dr.  Warren's  death.  The  horse  and  chaise 
appears  to  have  been  traced  to  Dr.  William  Eustis,  afterwards 
governor,  as  he  was  directed  the  next  day  to  deliver  it  to  the 
committee  named.  Mr.  Gray  went  first  to  Halifax,  thence  to 
London,  where  his  house  was  the  resort  of  the  Boston  refugees. 
Of  hini  it  was  written  :  — 

"  What  Puritan  could  ever  pray 
In  godlier  tones  than  Treasurer  Gray  ; 
Or  at  town-meetings,  speechifying, 
Could  utter  more  melodious  whine, 
And  shut  his  eyes  and  vent  his  moan, 
Like  owl  afflicted  in  the  sun  !  " 

At  these  ropewalks  began  the  conflicts  between  the  soldiers 
and  rope-makers,  which  culminated  in  the  5  th  of  March  affair. 
Among  the  soldiers  were  a  good  many  mechanics,  who  were 
often  employed  as  journeymen.  One  of  these  incpuired  of  a 
negro  workman  at  Mr.  Gray's  if  his  master  wished  to  hire  a 
man.  The  negro  answered  that  "  his  master  wished  to  have 
his  vault  emptied,  and  that  was  a  proper  work  for  a  Lobster!1 
For  this  insolent  remark  the  soldier  gave  the  negro  a  severe 
beating.  Mr.  Gray  came  up,  parted  them,  and  endeavored  to 
persuade  the  soldier  to  return  to  his  barracks,  but  the  latter 
cursed  him,  and  offered  for  sixpence  to  serve  him  as  he  had 
done  the  negro.  Mr.  Gray  took  him  at  his  word,  and  after  a 
sound  thrashing,  the  soldier  rushed  off  to  his  barracks  at 
Wheelwright's,  now  Foster's  Wharf,  swearing  vengeance.  But, 
in  the  language  of  Pope,  — 

"  What  direful  contests  rise  from  trivial  things  ! " 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     275 

The  soldier  returned  in  half  an  hour  with  nearly  seventy  of 
his  comrades  of  the  14th,  armed  with  pipe-staves  which  they 
had  obtained  at  a  cooper's  shop.  They  made  a  furious  attack 
upon  the  ropewalk  men,  who  stood  firm,  and  finally  repulsed 
their  assailants,  pursuing  them  over  the  hill.  The  soldiers,  rein- 
forced to  the  number  of  about  three  hundred,  headed  by  their 
sergeant-major,  returned  with  redoubled  fury  to  the  conflict,  but 
the  rope-makers  had  been  joined  by  the  brawny  shipwrights, 
mast  and  block  makers,  from  Hallowell's  shipyard  at  the  foot 
of  Milk  Street,  armed  with  their  beetles,  wedges,  and  marlin- 
spikes.  The  soldiers  pulled  down  the  fence  in  High  Street  en- 
closing the  field,  since  Quincy  Place,  and  the  ropewalk  men 
levelled  that  on  Pearl  Street.  A  terrific  melee  ensued,  but  the 
athletic  mechanics  of  Fort  Hill  were  too  much  for  the  soldiery, 
who  were  again  worsted.  This  occurred  on  the  3d  of  March, 
1770  ;  the  massacre  in  King  Street  took  place  on  the  5th. 

The  northwest  corner  of  Pearl  Street  is  the  site  of  the  Pearl 
Street  House,  opened  in  1836  by  Colonel  Shepard,  formerly  of 
the  Indian  Queen  in  Bromtield  Street.  The  house  is  now 
standing,  devoted  to  business.  It  was  the  first  erected  on  the 
south  side  of  the  street,  after  the  ropewalks,  and  was  built  by 
Mr.  Gorham  for  a  residence. 

On  the  opposite  corner  resided  Mr.  John  Prince,  a  gentleman 
of  tory  proclivities,  who,  however,  did  not  join  the  loyalist 
hegira  of  177G.  His  estate,  which  had  a  court-yard  and  gar- 
dens, was  altered  by  him  in  about  1812,  when  he  built  a  Muck 
of  five  buildings,  the  centre  house  twice  as  large  as  the  others, 
for  his  own  residence.  It  had  a  roof  with  a  pediment  raised 
above  the  others,  giving  the  whole  block  somewhat  the  appear- 
ance of  a  public  edifice.  After  residing  there  lor  a  lew  years, 
he  removed  to  a  beautiful  residence  at  Jamaica  Plain,  and  this 
Pearl  Street  mansion  became  the  boarding  house  of  Mrs.  l,e 
Kain. 

In  this  house  John  Gaspard  Spurzheim,  the  gifted  Prussian 
phrenologist,  resided  during  his  visit  to  Huston,  and  here,  also, 
he  died,  in  the  same  year  of  his  arrival  in  this  country.  He 
lies  buried  at  Mount  Auburn,  his  tomb  being  a  conspicuous 
object  in  that  famed  cemetery. 


276  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Attached  to  the  estate  of  Mr.  Prince  was  a  large  ham.  This 
was  Washington  Allston's  studio  after  his  return  to'  Boston,  and 
until  his  removal  to  Cambridgeport,  in  consequence  of  the  con- 
version of  the  barn  into  a  livery-stable.  Here  his  large  picture 
of  Belshazzar's  Feast,  now  in  the  Athenaeum  Gallery,  was  rolled 
up  and  laid  aside,  although  he  worked  at  it  a  little  at  this  time. 

Allston  was  the  antipodes  of  Stuart.  He  was  refined,  gentle, 
and  unassuming ;  a  charming  companion,  and  a  great  favorite 
in  society.  Besides  being  a  painter,  he  wrote  verses,  and  a  vol- 
ume of  his  poems  was  published.  Coleridge  said  he  was  un- 
surpassed by  any  man  of  his  age  in  poetical  and  artistic  genius. 
For  many  years  after  Allston  left  Borne  every  American  was 
questioned  by  the  native  artists  for  news  of  the  American 
Titian  ;  it  was  generally  conceded  that  for  two  hundred  years 
no  artist's  coloring  had  so  closely  resembled  that  of  the  great 
master. 

His  Dead  Man  won  the  first  prize  of  two  hundred  guineas 
from  the  British  Institution,  and  the  artist  could  have  disposed 
of  it  for  a  large  sum  on  the  spot,  but  he  preferred  to  sell  it  for 
less  than  its  value  to  the  Pennsylvania  Academy,  through 
Messrs.  McMurtie  and  Sully.  Allston  employed  his  leisure 
hours  at  Harvard  in  drawing  figures  and  landscapes.  The  pic- 
tures of  Pine,  in  the  Columbian  Museum,  Boston,  were  his  first 
masters  in  coloring ;  but,  most  of  all,  he  admired  a  head  of 
Cardinal  Bentivoglio,  by  Smibert,  in  the  College  library,  while 
a  student.  This  was  a  copy  from  Vandyke,  and  seemed  perfec- 
tion to  the  young  artist  until  he  saw  works  of  greater  merit. 

Allston  continued  to  paint  industriously  and  successfully 
until  his  death,  which  occurred  at  Cambridge,  July  9,  1813. 
He  had  painted  all  day,  and  during  the  evening  conversed  with 
unusual  cheerfulness.  His  wife  left  the  room  for  a  few  moments, 
and  when  she  returned  he  was  dying.  Allston  was  liberally 
patronized,  and  no  American  painter  of  his  day  received  such 
prices.  His  first  wife  was  a  sister  of  William  Ellery  Channing  ; 
a  sister  of  Bichard  H.  Dana  was  the  Mrs.  Allston  who  survived 
him.  De  Tocqueville  went  to  Cambridgeport  on  purpose  to 
see  the  artist ;  and  the  first  inquiry  of  Lord  Morpeth,  when  he 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     277 

landed  in  Boston,  was,  "  Where  does  Allston  live  1 "  A  num- 
ber of  his  pictures  are  preserved  in  the  Athenaeum  Gallery, 
including  several  unfinished  works.  The  late  S.  F.  1).  Morse 
was  a  pupil  of  Allston. 

The  house  next  beyond  that  of  Mr.  Prince  was  that  in  which 
Theophilus  Parsons,  LL.  D.,  lived  after  his  removal  to  Boston 
in  1800,  and  in  which  he  died.  Judge  Parsons,  as  chief  of  the 
Massachusetts  Bench,  as  one  of  the  framers  of  the  State  Consti- 
tution, or  as  a  zealous  advocate  for  the  adoption  of  the  Federal 
Constitution,  ranks  high  in  the  estimation  of  his  countrymen. 

An  instance  of  Judge  Parsons's  address  is  given  in  connection 
with  the  convention  in  Federal  Street.  One  of  the  delegates, 
Eev.  Mr.  Perley,  of  Maine,  refused  to  vote  for  an  instrument 
which  did  not  acknowledge  the  Supreme  Being.  The  lawyer 
undertook  to  argue  him  out  of  his  position.  "  I  suppose,"  said 
Mr.  Parsons,  "  that  in  the  course  of  your  ministerial  labors  you 
have  preached  from  texts  in  every  book  of  the  Old  Testament." 
"Yes,"  said  Mr.  Perley,  "I  probably  have."  "You  have 
preached  from  texts  in  the  Book  of  Esther  1  "  "  Doubtless  I 
have,"  said  Mr.  Perley.  "  Do  you  know  that  in  the  Book  of 
Esther,"  said  Mr.  Parsons,  "there  is  not  a  single  allusion  to  the 
Supreme  Being  1 "  "  It  is  not  possible,"  said  Mr.  Perley. 
"Look!"  said  Mr.  Parsons.  The  search  was  made.  "You 
are  right,"  said  Mr.  Perley,  and  the  clergyman  confessed  his 
scruples  removed. 

Theophilus  Parsons,  the  younger,  is  best  known  by  excellent 
works  on  commercial  law,  and  for  other  labors  in  the  literary 
field.  He  studied  law  with  Judge  rrescott,  father  of  the  his- 
torian, and  son  of  the  commander  at  Bunker  Hill. 

Next  the  house  of  Judge  Parsons  was  that  of  Paxton,  or 
Palmer.  This  house  was  divided,  and  became  tin1  residence  of 
James  Lovell,  the  naval  officer,  and  of  Thomas  Handasyd  IVr- 
kins,  so  well  remembered  for  his  munificent  contribution  in  aid 
of  a  blind  asylum.  Between  this  mansion  and  the  Quincy 
estate  a  field  intervened. 

Colonel  Perkins  was  one  of  tin'  most  eminenl  of  Boston 
merchants,  and,  with  his  brother  James,  engaged  largely   in  the 


278  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

China  and  Java  trade.  Amassing  great  wealth,  both  brothers 
contributed  freely  to  benevolent  or  literary  objects.  '  The  atten- 
tion of  Colonel  T.  H.  Perkins  was  probably  first  drawn  to  the 
blind  by  the  partial  loss  of  his  own  sight.  Tbe  Quincy  hail- 
way,  and  the  Washington  and  Bunker  Hill  Monuments  were 
each  objects  of  his  interest  and  efforts.  He  laid  the  corner-stone 
of  the  Merchants'  Exchange  in  State  Street,  and  liberally  aided 
the  Mercantile  Library.  He  was,  in  common  with  some  of  his 
neighbors,  an  ardent  opponent  of  the  war  policy  of  Mr.  Madison. 

When  Colonel  Perkins  was  in  Paris,  during  a  period  of  ap- 
prehended revolution,  Lafayette  confided  his  son,  George  Wash- 
ington, to  his  care,  and  the  latter  lived  for  some  time  in  his 
family  in  Boston. 

Immediately  behind  the  mansion  of  Mr.  Perkins  Avas  the 
residence  of  Andrew  Oliver,  lieutenant-governor  under  Hutch- 
inson's regime,  distributor  of  stamps,  etc.  The  house  stood 
near  Oliver  Street,  though  it  did  not  appear  to  have  fronted 
upon  it.  Its  condition  was  so  dilapidated  in  1808  as  to  afford 
little  idea  of  its  former  appearance.  It  was  in  good  repair  after 
the  Eevolution,  and  occupied  by  families  of  respectability. 

Mr.  Oliver  was  visited  by  the  mob  who  overthrew  the  stamp- 
office  at  the  dock,  not  far  distant.  Governor  Bernard  recites  in 
his  proclamation  that  the  secretary's  house  was  entered  with 
force  and  violence,  his  furniture  damaged,  Avindows  broken,  and 
fences  pulled  doAvn,  to  the  great  terror  of  his  Majesty's  liege 
subjects.  The  secretary,  apprehensiAre  of  a  second  Adsit  from 
his  fellow-citizens,  thought  it  prudent  to  resign  his  office  forth- 
with. Mr.  Hutchinson  was  present  at  Oliver's  house  when  the 
mob  attacked  it  ;  he  used  his  endeavors  to  suppress  the  riot 
Avith  force,  but  neither  the  sheriff  nor  the  colonel  of  the  Boston 
Regiment  thought  proper  to  interfere.  Peter  OhVer,  brother  of 
Andrew,  was  chief  justice  in  1771,  adhered  to  the  royal  cause, 
and  left  Boston  Avith  the  king's  troops. 

Secretary  OhVer  died  in  Boston  in  1774.  He  was  one  of  the 
most  affluent  of  the  Old  Bostonians,  and  had  a  private  estab- 
lishment rivalling  that  of  any  in  the  province.  Coaches,  chariot, 
negro  slaves,  and  good  sterling  plate  in  abundance  attested  his 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     279 

wealth.  He  was  a  generous  patron  of  Smibert,  who  painted 
all  the  family  portraits,  including  one  in  which  the  secretary 
and  his  two  brothers  were  represented.  Andrew  Oliver  wished 
to  stand  well  with  his  countrymen,  and  at  the  same  time  enjoy 
the  emoluments  of  an  officer  of  the  crown.  He  soon  found  the 
two  were  incompatible,  and  passed  from  the  stage  soon  after 
the  events  occurred  that  have  given  notoriety  to  his  name.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  Oliver  Street  was  the  residence  of  Judge 
Oliver  Wendell.  It  fronted  towards  the  east,  with  grounds 
adjoining. 

Quincy  Block  marks  the  site  of  the  Quincy  estate,  which 
extended  to  High  Street.  Here  Mr.  Quincy  passed  the  earlier 
years  of  his  married  life,  until  elected  to  Congress  in  1805, 
when  the  mansion  was  occupied  by  Christopher  Gore.  It  is 
described  by  Miss  Quincy  as 

"  A  handsome  edifice  of  three  stories,  the  front  ornamented  with 
Corinthian  pilasters  ;  and  pillars  of  the  same  order  supported  a 
porch,  from  which  three  flights  of  red  sandstone  steps,  and  a  broad 
walk  of  the  same  material,  descended  to  Pearl  Street.  Honeysuckles 
were  twined  around  the  porch,  and  high  damask  rose-bushes  grew 
beneath  the  windows  ;  at  the  comer  of  Pearl  and  High  Streets  stood 
the  stable  and  coach-house.  The  grounds  ascending  towards  Oliver 
Street  were  formed  into  a  glacis,  and  were  adorned  with  four  English 
elms  of  full  size  and  beauty,  the  resort  of  numerous  birds,  especially 
of  the  oriole,  or  golden  robin." 

Christopher  Gore  was  a  Bostonian  by  birth,  and  an  eminent 
lawyer.  It  was  in  his  office  that  Daniel  Webster  read  law,  and 
by  his  advice  that  the  latter  continued  steadfast  in  the  profes- 
sion when  beguiled  by  some  offer  of  place  which  might  have 
terminated  his  great  career.  Mr.  Gore  was  the  first  district 
attorney  appointed  by  Washington  over  the  Massachusetts  dis- 
trict ;  he  was  also  a  commissioner  under  Jay's  treaty,  and  a 
United  States  senator.  In  1809  he  was  dec-ted  governor  of 
Massachusetts.  This  was  the  period  of  the  embargo  of  Mr. 
Jefferson,  and  of  the  stirring  scenes  preceding  the  war  of  1812. 
The  temper  of  the  Bostonians  was  decidedly  adverse  to  the 
measure  ;  the  mercantile  class,  whose  interests  were  mosi  nearly 


280  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

affected,  were  bitter  in  tlieir  comments  upon  the  administration. 
Colonel  Boyd,  commanding  at  Fort  Independence,  received 
orders  to  fire  upon  any  vessel  attempting  to  violate  the  embargo, 
upon  which  the  colors  on  the  shipping  were  placed  at  half-mast. 
The  Wasp,  afterwards  conqueror  of  the  Frolic,  lay  in  the  stream 
watching  the  idle  vessels,  and  threats  were  freely  made  to  burn 
her. 

William  Sullivan  says,  Governor  Gore  was  tall,  a  little  in- 
clined to  corpulency  in  middle  age,  and  erect,  but  began  to 
bend  at  an  earlier  age  than  common.  He  became  bald  at  an 
unusually  early  period.  His  hair  was  tied  behind  and  dressed 
with  powder.  His  face  was  round  and  florid,  his  eyes  black ; 
his  manners  courteous  and  amiable.  Gore  Hall,  at  Harvard,  com- 
memorates a  magnificent  bequest  to  the  University  in  his  will. 

On  the  site  of  the  Athenaeum  one  sees  the  block  of  that 
name  ;  we  wish  the  custom  prevailed  more  generally  of  thus 
distinguishing  localities.  In  the  hall  of  the  Athenaeum  the 
disciples  of  Baron  Swedenborg  held  their  worship  ;  the  society 
has  existed  in  Boston  since  1818,  receiving  legislative  sanction 
in  1823.  It  has  been  mentioned  that  the  Athenaeum  owed 
their  building  to  the  munificence  of  James  Perkins.  Quincy 
Place  and  Perkins  Street  are  visible  memorials  of  two  distin- 
guished families. 

High  Street  has  ceased  to  be  high,  and,  to  keep  pace  with 
the  custom  of  the  times,  should  receive  a  more  appropriate 
title.  Of  yore  it  mounted  the  height  to  the  esplanade  of  Fort 
Hill ;  now  it  has  sunk  to  a  monotonous  level.  Sister  Street 
rejoices  in  the  name  as  well  as  the  smell  of  Leather,  while  Wil- 
liams Street,  named  for  John  Foster  Williams,  is  metamorphosed 
into  Matthews.  Pearl  Street  is  the  acknowledged  shoe  and 
leather  mart  of  the  country,  and  has  furnished  the  State  with 
at  least  one  chief  magistrate.  The  Hutchinsons,  Atkinsons, 
Grays,  Perkinses,  Quincys,  Parsonses,  Gridleys,  and  the  rest, 
have  shed  a  lustre  round  the  ancient  hillside,  though  granite 
now  usurps  the  terraced  gardens,  and  drays  instead  of  chariots 
stand  at  the  doors. 

Fort  Hill  Block,  on  the  corner  of  High  and  Pearl  Streets, 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     281 

marks  the  site  of  a  mammoth  structure  erected  for  a  private 
residence,  and  known  as  Harris's  Folly.  Extensive  gardens 
reached  up  the  hill,  quite  to  the  enclosure  at  the  top.  In  1809 
all  the  land  was  open  to  the  mall  on  the  summit  of  the  hill. 
The  northwest  corner  of  Pearl  and  High  was  for  a  time  the 
location  of  the  Congress  House,  altered  from  a  private  residence 
into  a  hotel. 

Proceed  we  onward  to  Purchase  Street,  anciently  Belcher's 
Lane,  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  Dawes,  afterwards  a  judge  of 
the  Supreme  Court  of  the  State,  and  of  the  Municipal  Court 
of  Boston  ;  and  of  Samuel  Adams,  the  great  central  figure  of 
the  patriot  junta.  The  elder  Thomas  Dawes  was  the  architect 
of  Brattle  Street  Church.  He  was  a  high  patriot,  and  the 
caucuses  were  sometimes  held  in  his  garret,  where  they  smoked 
tobacco,  drank  flip,  and  discussed  the  state  of  the  country. 
Dawes  was  also  adjutant  of  the  Boston  Eegiment.  The  tories 
gave  him  the  nickname  of  "  Jonathan  Smoothing-plane." 

A  short  descent  brings  us  to  Liverpool  Wharf.  Where  now 
Broad  Street  winds  around  the  margin  of  the  water,  the  old 
footpath  under  the  hdl  was  known  as  Flounder  Lane  ;  Sea 
Street  was  its  continuation  to  Windmill  Point.  Beyond  this 
point  the  Sea  Street  of  later  times  was  built  straight  into  the 
harbor,  enclosing  the  South  Cove  ;  it  is  now  known  as  Broad 
Street  in  its  entire  length,  from  State  Street  to  the  South 
Boston  Bridge. 

Liverpool  Wharf,  then  Griffin's,  was  the  destination  of  the 
Tea  Party  of  December  1G,  1773.  It  was  a  cold  wintry  after- 
noon, when 

"Just  as  glorious  Sol  was  setting, 
On  the  wharf  a  numerous  crew, 
Sons  of  freedom,  fear  forgetting, 
Suddenly  appeared  in  view." 

The  three  Indiamen,  with  their  high  poops  and  ornamented 
sterns,  were  lying  quietly  moored  at  the  wharf.  They  had 
been  for  some  time  under  guard  of  a  committee  of  twenty  five 
from  the  grenadier  company  of  the  Boston  Regiment,  of  which 
Henry  Knox  was  one.  The  hatches  were  closed,  and  this  vigi- 
lance committee  took  care  no  attempt  was  made  to  land  the 


282  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

cargo.  The  names  of  the  three  ships  were  the  Dartmouth, 
Captain  James  Hall,  The  Eleanor,  Captain  James-  Bruce,  and 
hrig  Beaver,  Captain  Hezekiah  Coffin. 

The  number  of  persons  disguised  as  Indians  was  not  more 

^«<r^I9BrK3*\         than  seventeen,  hut  the  accessions  from  the 

<^f%  Br/u        ^^  South,  ailu~  °f  apprentice  lads  and  idlers, 

llHfiMr  &4&\P'  swe-^ec^  the  number  to  more  than  a  hundred  ; 
2j?HB|Pv$^  \%  as  many  as  sixty  went  on  board  the  ships. 
^KsSslsdSw*^^*  Each  ship  had  a  detachment  allotted  to  it 
~  ■^SSJS^"^***^  under  a  recognized  leader;  Lendall  Pitts 
was  one  of  these  chiefs.  Everything  was 
orderly,  systematic,  and  doubtless  previously  concerted.  The 
leaders  demanded  of  those  in  charge  of  the  ships  the  keys  to 
the  hatches,  candles,  and  matches,  which  were  produced.  The 
Dartmouth  was  first  visited  and  relieved  of  her  cargo  of  one 
hundred  and  fourteen  chests.  As  the  chests  were  passed  on 
deck,  they  were  smashed,  and  nervous  arms  plunged  them  into 
the  dock.  The  contents  of  three  hundred  and  forty-two  chests 
mingled  with  the  waters  of  the  bay,  and  the  work  was  done. 

It  was  low  tide  when  the  ships  were  boarded,  and  the  ap- 
prentice boys,  who  formed  the  larger  number  of  those  engaged 
in  the  affair,  jumped  upon  the  flats,  and  assisted  in  breaking 
up  and  trampling  into  the  mud  such  of  the  chests  as  had 
escaped  the  hatchets  of  those  on  board  the  vessels.  The  tide 
beginning  to  flow,  the  whole  mass  was  soon  adrift. 

We  give  the  names  of  the  actors  in  this  conversion  of  Bos- 
ton harbor  into  a  teapot,  as  far  as  known  :  Dr.  Thomas  Young, 
Paul  Bevere,  Thomas  Melvill,  Henry  Purkett,  Captain  Henry 
Prentiss,  Samuel  Gore,  George  E.  T.  Hewes,  Joseph  Shed, 
John  Crane,  Josiah  Wheeler,  Thomas  Urann,  Adam  Colson, 
Thomas  Chase,  S.  Cooledge,  Joseph  Payson,  James  Brewer, 
Thomas  Bolter,  Edward  Proctor,  Samuel  Sloper,  Thomas  Ger- 
rish,  Nathaniel  Green,  Edward  C.  How,  Ebenezer  Stevens, 
Nicholas  Campbell,  John  Russell,  Thomas  Porter,  William 
Hurdley,  Benjamin  Rice,  Nathaniel  Frothingham,  Moses  Grant, 
Peter  Slater,  James  Starr,  Abraham  Tower,  Isaac  Simpson, 
Joseph  Eayres,  Joseph  Lee,  William  Molineux,  John  Spurr, 


FROM   THE   OLD    SOUTH   ROUND   FORT   HILL.  283 

Thomas  Moore,  S.  Howard,  Matthew  Loring,  Thomas  Spear, 
Daniel  Ingollson,  Jonathan  Hunnewell,  John  Hooten,  Richard 
Hunnewell,  William  Pierce,  William  Russell,  T.  Gammell,  Mr. 
Mcintosh,  Mr.  Wyeth,  Edward  Dolbier,  Mr.  Martin,  Samuel 
Peck,  Lendall  Pitts,  Samuel  Sprague,  Benjamin  Clarke,  .John 
Prince,  Richard  Hunnewell,  Jr.,  David  Kinnison,  John  Truman, 
Henry  Pass,  Joseph  Mountfort,  William  Hurd,  Joseph  Palmer, 
Joseph  Coolidge,  Obadiah  Curtis,  James  Swan,  Mr.  Kingson, 
and  Isaac  Pitman.* 

There  are  authorities  who  give  Dr.  Warren  as  a  member  of  the 
Mohawk  Band.  Many  incidents  are  related  of  this  event.  It  is 
said  that  on  their  return  from  the  wharf  the  band  passed  a  house 
where  Admiral  Montague  of  the  fleet  happened  to  be,  and  that  he 
raised  the  window  and  cried  out,  "  Well,  boys,  you've  had  a  lino 
pleasant  evening  for  your  Indian  caper,  have  n't  you?  But  mind 
you  have  got  to  pay  the  fiddler  yet ! "  "  0,  never  mind ! "  shouted 
Pitts,  the  leader ;  "  never  mind,  Squire  !  just  come  out  here, 
if  you  please,  and  we  '11  settle  the  bill  in  two  minutes."  The 
populace  raised  a  shout,  the  fifer  struck  up  a  lively  air,  and  the 
admiral  shut  the  window  in  a  hurry.  A  powerful  fleet  lay  in 
the  roads ;  the  troops  were  at  the  Castle,  yet  not  a  move  was 
made  to  arrest  the  work  of  destruction. 

Thomas  Melvill,  in  aftor  times  a  distinguished  citizen  of 
Boston,  was  of  the  party.  On  his  return  home  his  wife  col- 
lected a  little  of  the  tea  from  his  shoes,  which  was  put  into  a 
bottle  with  a  memorandum  written  on  parchment,  and  kepi  as 
a  precious  relic  in  the  family.  Many  came  to  see  the  famous 
herb,  until  at  last  it  was  found  necessary  to  seal  it,  to  preserve 
it  from  vandal  hands.  This  bottle  of  tea  is  now  in  possession 
of  Lemuel  Shaw  of  this  city,  son  of  the  late  .ludge  Shaw. 

John  Crane,  another  of  the  party,  while  busily  employed  in 
the  hold  of  one  of  the  ships,  was  knocked  down  by  a  chei  I  of 
tea,  falling  from  the  deck  upon  him.  lie  was  taken  up  for 
dead,  and  concealed  in  a  neighhoring  carpenter's  shop  under  a 
pile  of  shavings.  After  the  party  had  finished  they  returned, 
and  found  Crane  living. 

*  Some  of  these  names  are  from  Lossing's  Field-Book. 


284  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Several  persons  who  were  detected  in  the  act  of  secreting 
the  fragrant  plant  were  roughly  handled. 

"  One  Captain  O'Connor,"  says  Hewes,  "  whom  I  well  knew,  came 
on  board  for  this  purpose,  and  when  he  supposed  he  was  not  noticed, 
filled  his  pockets,  and  also  the  lining  of  his  coat.  But  I  had  de- 
tected him,  and  gave  information  to  the  captain  of  what  he  was 
doing.  We  were  ordered  to  take  him  hi  to  custody,  and  just  as  he 
was  stepping  from  the  vessel,  I  seized  him  by  the  skirt  of  his  coat, 
and  in  attempting  to  pull  him  back,  I  tore  it  off ;  but  springing  for- 
ward by  a  rapid  effort,  he  made  his  escape.  He  had,  however,  to  run 
the  gantlet  of  the  crowd  upon  the  wharf  ;  each  one  as  he  passed  giv- 
ing him  a  kick  or  a  stroke.  The  next  day  we  nailed  the  skirt  of  his 
coat,  which  I  had  pulled  off,  to  the  whipping-post  in  Charlestown, 
the  place  of  his  residence,  with  a  label  upon  it." 

Griffin's  Wharf,  as  well  as  Wheelwright's,  had  a  number  of 
large  warehouses,  in  which  had  been  quartered  the  detachment 
of  the  59th,  and  the  train  of  artillery  which  landed  in  Octo- 
ber, 1768.  A  fire  caught  in  one  of  the  stores  used  as  a  labor- 
atory in  March,  1760,  and  an  explosion  occurred,  injuring  sev- 
eral men  and  terrifying  the  neighborhood. 

Eowe's  Wharf  coincides  with  the  old  Southern  Battery  or 
Sconce,  an  outwork  of  Fort  Hill,  and  terminus  in  this  direction 
of  the  famous  Barricado.  As  early  as  1632  a  fort  was  begun 
on  the  eminence  then  called  Corn  Hill,  but  soon  changed  to  the 
Fort-field,  and  finally  to  Fort  Hill.  The  Bostonians  were  aided 
by  their  brethren  from  Charlestown,  Roxbury,  and  Dorchester ; 
two  years  after,  it  was  declared  in  a  state  of  defence. 

The  Sconce  was  probably  not  built  until  some  time  after  the 
main  work,  perhaps  at  the  time  of  the  Dutch  war.  It  was  con- 
structed of  whole  timber,  with  earth  and  stone  between,  and 
was  considered  very  strong.  In  time  of  peace  it  was  in  charge 
of  a  gunner  only,  but  had  its  company  assigned  to  it  in  case  of 
danger.  In  1705  it  was  commanded  by  Captain  Timothy 
Clark,  who  was  ordered  to  furnish  an  account  of  the  ordnance, 
ammunition,  etc.,  "meete  to  bee  offered  hys  Grace  the  Duke 
of  Marlborough  Great  Master  of  her  Majestye's  Ordnance." 
In  1743  the  battery  mounted  thirty-five  guns  ;  at  this  time  no 
work  appears  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.     In  1774  Jeremiah 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     285 

Green  was  captain  with  the  rank  of  major.  The  British  con- 
tinued to  hold  it  with  a  garrison,  and  had  a  laboratory  there. 
Colonel  Porneroy's  regiment,  the  64th,  occupied  the  hill  in 
November,  1768  ;  the  Welsh  Fusileers,  who  had  won  a  splendid 
name  for  valor  at  Minden,  were  posted  there  in  1774,  and  in 
1775  the  works  contained  four  hundred  men.  After  the  evacu- 
ation the  works  were  found  greatly  damaged,  but  were  occu- 
pied and  strengthened  by  the  Americans.  Du  Portail,  chief 
engineer  of  the  American  army,  came  to  Boston  in  October, 
1778,  to  make  a  survey  of  the  works,  when  this  with  others 
was  strengthened  and  put  in  the  best  posture  of  defence.  Sub- 
sequently, in  1779,  when  Washington  was  fortifying  the  passes 
of  the  Hudson  on  a  great  scale,  the  heavy  guns  were  removed 
from  all  the  works  here  and  sent  forward  to  the  army  against 
which  Clinton  was  then  advancing. 

The  battery  and  fort  acquire  a  celebrity  as  the  theatre  of 
the  seizure  and  deposition  of  Governor  Andros.  In  April,  1689, 
the  news  of  the  landing  of  the  Prince  of  Orange  at  Torbay 
reached  Boston,  and  threw  the  town  into  a  ferment.  The  gov- 
ernor, Eandolph,  and  some  others  sought  the  security  of  the 
fort  j  the  drums  beat  to  arms,  and  the  inhabitants  ran  from  all 
quarters  to  the  Town  House,  where  they  joined  their  respective 
companies.  The  captain  of  a  frigate  which  lay  before  the  town 
was  seized  on  shore,  and  held  as  a  hostage.  Approaching  the 
hill  by  the  rear,  the  train-bands  divided,  a  part  going  around  by 
the  water  to  the  battery.  A  few  soldiers  in  this  work  retreated 
up  the  hill  to  the  main  body,  and  the  townsmen  turned  the 
guns  upon  them.  Andros  cursed  and  fumed,  but  was  forced  to 
yield  himself  a  prisoner,  with  his  companions.  Some  were 
imprisoned  in  the  old  jail ;  Ins  Excellency  was  placed  under 
guard  at  Mr.  Usher's  house.  Tin;  frigate  still  showed  fight,  and 
lay  with  her  ports  triced  up,  and  her  men  at  quarters  ;  hut 
after  the  people  had  got  possession  of  all  the  fortifications  and 
pointed  the  guns  at  her,  the  captain  was  compelled  1"  send 
down  his  topmasts,  unbend  his  sails,  and  send  them  ashore.  The 
keys  of  the  ('astle  were  next  extorted  from  Andros,  and  the 
bloodless  revolution  was  ended.     It  is  said  Sir   Edmund  was 


286  LANDMAKKS   OF   BOSTON". 

handcuffed  as  he  was  conducted  from  the  fort ;  we  may  well 
believe  he  was  not  allowed  to  pass  through  the  'ranks  of  the 
townsmen  without  some  reminders  of  his  fallen  state. 

Probably  Old  Boston  never  knew  a  day  of  greater  rejoicing 
than  that  which  brought  the  news  of  Burgoyne's  surrender. 
The  rumor  of  the  falling  back  of  the  American  army  to  Still- 
water had  been  received  with  deep  forebodings  for  the  future, 
speedily  dissipated  by  the  glad  tidings  of  the  greatest  victory 
of  the  war.  A  thundering  salute  was  fired  from  Fort  Hill  and 
Dorchester  Neck.  Hope  animated  every  heart  anew,  and  joy 
was  visible  in  every  countenance. 

From  the  Sconce,  the  lane  leading  up  the  hill  to  the  fort  was 
named  Sconce  Lane,  since  Hamilton  Street,  and  the  walk  along 
the  beach  the  Batterymarch. 

A  specimen  of  the  small  arms  in  use  at  the  time  of  the  set- 
tlement is  in  the  Historical  Society's  possession.  The  guns 
were  without  locks,  match  or  fuse  being  used  at  the  rate  of 
two  fathoms  for  every  pound  of  powder  and  twenty  bullets  ; 
pikes  were  still  in  use  for  foot-soldiers. 

"  Where  are  those  old  and  feudal  clans, 
Their  pikes  and  bills  and  partisans  ; 
Their  hauberks,  jerkins,  buffs  ? 
A  battle  was  a  battle  then, 
A  breathing  piece  of  work  ;  but  men 
Fight  now  with  powder  puffs. " 

The  building  lately  occupied  by  a  Glass  Company  at  the 
corner  of  Hamilton  Street  was  the  residence  of  Benjamin  Hal- 
lowell,  grandfather  of  the  admiral.  It  became  afterwards  a 
noted  inn,  known  as  the  "  Sun,"  and  kept  by  Goodrich  in 
1822. 

This  old  Sun  Tavern,  now  while  we  write  nearly  demolished, 
is  the  third  or  fourth  of  that  name  in  Boston.  One  of  the 
same  name  was  in  Dock  Square  in  1724,  kept  by  Samuel 
Mears ;  another  was  in  Cornhill  in  1755,  kept  by  Captain 
James  Day  :  we  may  suppose  the  conjunction  of  names  did 
not  escape  the  wits  of  the  day.  The  sign  of  the  Sun  in  Bat- 
terymarch Street  has  been  compared  in  shape  to  a  gravestone, 
with  its  circular  top.  There  the  likeness  ended  ;  for  underneath 
the  rays  of  a  gilded  sun  was  the  legend,  — 


FROM  THE  OLD  SOUTH  ROUND  FORT  HILL.     287 

"  The  best  Ale  and  Porter 

Under  the  Sim." 

By  a  curious  transition  the  sign  was  afterwards  erected  in 
Moon  Street,  where  it  became  the  proper  symbol  of  Mrs.  Milk, 
whose  mixtures  were  perhaps  not  as  mild  as  the  name  indicated. 
Few  of  her  customers  escaped  a  coup  de  soleil ;  her  neighbors 
were  Waters,  Beer,  and  Legg.  Sun  Court,  near  by,  reflected 
the  name  of  the  greater  luminary. 

At  the  east  corner  of  Milk  Street  and  Liberty  Square  was 
the  Commercial  Coffee  House,  built  on  the  site  of  Hallowell's 
shipyard.  It  was  kept  by  William  Meriam  from  1817  until 
about  1830,  and  was  a  house  of  considerable  resort  for  ship- 
masters. In  1838  John  Low  was  landlord,  and  later  Colonel 
Whitney.  Its  place  is  now  occupied  by  Thorndike's  granite 
building.  Here  was  in  1798  the  principal  shipyard  in  the 
town,  from  which  was  launched  the  ship  Genet  fully  rigged, 
and  named  in  honor  of  the  then  French  minister  to  this 
country. 

Siste  Viator.  We  were  about  to  invite  the  reader  to  ascend 
Fort  Hill.  The  waters  of  the  harbor  have  swallowed  the  emi- 
nence, and  it  is  as  completely  obliterated  as  if  an  earthquake 
had  engulfed  it.  The  base  indeed  is  left,  but  it  requires  a 
strong  imagination  to  picture  an  elevation  eighty  feet  above  us, 
bearing  on  its  top  the  elegant  mansions  of  a  past  generation, 
with  the  tops  of  noble  elms  waving  in  the  cool  sea-breezes. 
Yet  this  was  the  peculiar  spot  to  which  residents  were  invited 
fifty  years  ago,  with  the  assurance  that  the  green  park  on  its  top 
would  afford  a  perpetual  place  of  recreation. 

The  streets  which  struggled  up  Hie  sides  of  the  hill  were  <>n<v 
peopled  with  a  highly  respectable  class,  hut  Iiroad  Streel  and 
the  outlying  works  were  soon  carried  by  Irish,  ami  the  citadel 
was  yielded  to  them.  From  the  hill  radiated  the  wharves,  like 
the  fingers  of  the  hand;  the  eastern  slope  was  peopled  by  ship 
artisans  and  mechanics  pertaining  to  thai  craft.  The  summit 
of  the  hill  was  levelled  so  as  to  form  a  plateau,  in  the  centre 
of  which  was  the  grass-plat  encircled  with  an  iron  fence  and 
studded  with  trees.     On  the  south  side  was  buill  the  Boylston 


288  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

School  and  gun-house  of  the  "Washington  Artillery ;  the  space 
enclosed  by  the  buildings  on  the  other  sides  was  called  "Wash- 
ington Place.  The  school  received  its  name  in  honor  of  Thomas 
and  Ward  Nicholas  Boylston,  liberal  benefactors  of  Boston  and 
the  neighboring  University.  A  windmill  was  erected  on  the 
hill  in  the  year  1701. 

The  Washington  Artillery  Company,  on  one  of  its  annual 
visits  to  East  Boston  for  target-practice,  gave  a  sample  of  their 
gunnery  by  knocking  over  a  cow  with  a  twelve-pounder  shot. 
The  owner  received  the  price  demanded  for  the  slaughtered 
animal.  The  company,  with  a  keen  eye  to  business,  had  the 
cow  dressed  and  sold  at  a  considerable  advance  on  the  price 
paid  the  owner. 

The  land  from  the  hill-top  no  doubt  furnished  the  material 
for  filling  up  the  docks  east  of  Kilby  and  Batterymarch  Streets. 
The  old  fort  had  disappeared  long  before  the  Pievolution,  and  it 
was  not  until  then  that  the  hill  was  again  fortified.  In  1869 
the  levelling  of  the  hill  was  ordered,  and  fully  completed  within 
three  years.  A  dreary  waste  of  gravel  flanked  by  bare  founda- 
tion walls,  a  stump  here  and  there  of  the  once  noble  elms,  are 
all  that  is  left  of  Fort  Hill.     Sic  transit. 


A  TOUR  ROUXD  THE  COMMON.  289 


CHAPTEE  X. 

A    TOUR    ROUND    THE    COMMON. 

Long  Acre.  —  Tremont  House.  —  Mr.  Clay.  —  President  Jackson.  —  Charles 
Dickens.  —  Little  House-lot.  —  Tremont  Theatre.  —  The  Cadets.  —  Adino 
Paddock.  —  Paddock's  Mall.  —  Granary  Burying-Ground.  —  The  Granary. 

—  Almshouse.  —  Workhouse.  —  Bridewell.  —  Park  Street  Church.  —  Man- 
ufactory House.  —  Linert-Spinning  Introduced.  —  Elisha  Brown.  —  Massa- 
chusetts Bank.  —  Incident  of  the  Lexington  Expedition.  —  The  Common. 

—  Its  Origin.  — The  Great  Mall.  —  Fences.  — Winter  Street.  — Governor 
Bernard.  — John  McLean.  —  Samuel  Adams.  —  St.  Paul's.  —  Masonic  Tem- 
ple. —  Margaret  Fuller.  —  Washington  Gardens.  —  The  Haymarket.  — 
West  Street.  — The  Gun-House.  — Colonnade  Row.  — Massachusetts  Med- 
ical College. — Haymarket  Theatre. — Boylston  Street. — John  Quincy 
Adams.  —  General  Moreau.  —  Charles  Francis  Adams. 

UPOX1  the  pavement  of  Tremont  Street  once  more,  we  renew 
our  wanderings  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Old  Granary  Bury- 
ing-Ground. Common  Street  was  the  first  distinctive  appella- 
tion received  hy  that  part  of  Tremont  from  School  Street  to 
Boylston,  or,  to  copy  the  language  of  the  record,  "  from  Melyne's 
corner,  near  Colonel  Townsend's,  passing  through  the  Common, 
along  by  Mr.  Sheef's  into  Frog  Lane."  It  did  not  become 
Tremont  Street  until  1829.  The  name  of  Long  Acre  was  given 
to  that  part  of  the  street  between  School  and  Winter  by  Adino 
Paddock,  of  whom  something  anon.  He  came  from  that  part 
of  London  in  which  the  great  plague  originated,  and  which  was 
noted  for  its  mughouses.  In  London  Long  Acre  is  the  scene 
of  Matt  Prior's  amours,  when,  after  an  evening  witli  Swift, 
Oxford,  Bolingbroke,  and  Pope,  he  would  go  and  smoke  a  pipe 
and  drink  a  bottle  of  beer  witli  a  common  soldier.  This  name 
of  Paddock's  was  generally  accepted,  though  we  do  not  Learn 
that  it  ever  had  any  official  sanction. 

The  Tremont  House,  though  not  an  old  landmark,  is  a  prom- 
inent one.    The  corner-stone  was  laid  on  the  4th  of  July,  L828, 
and   it  was   opened   to   the   public  October  1G,  1829.      Isaiah 
13  H 


290  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Rogers  was  the  architect.  It  was  thought  to  he,  and  was  at 
this  time,  a  model,  of  luxury  and  elegance.  It  has  Been  some 
notahle  guests.  Henry  Clay,  or,  more  familiarly,  Harry  of  the 
West,  tarried  here.  So  did  his  antagonist,  then  President, 
Jackson,  on  his  visit  to  Boston  in  June,  1833.  These  two  men 
gave  rise  to  two  party  watchwords  which  have  been  perpetuated 
in  a  singular  manner.  Two  rival  political  bands  of  Kentuckians 
went  to  settle  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri.  One  party  came 
from  the  Blue-Grass  region,  and  were  Clay  men.  The  other 
was  from  the  Big  Sandy,  and  were  Jackson  men.  The  battle- 
cry  of  the  parties  was,  "  Clay  and  Liberty,"  "  Jackson  and 
Independence."  Each  little  band  of  settlers  named  their  vil- 
lages for  their  war-cry,  and  eventually  the  counties  for  their 
political  chiefs.     So  they  now  remain. 

Brave  Hull  came  also  to  see  the  docking  of  his  old  ship,  the 
Constitution.  Charles  Dickens,  on  his  first  visit  to  America, 
came  to  the  Tremont  House.  It  took  him  eighteen  days  to 
come  over  in  the  Britannia.  It  is  said  the  first  person  he  asked 
for  on  his  arrival  was  Bryant ;  but,  as  the  steamer  reached  her 
dock  after  dark,  we  may  conclude  the  comforts  of  his  hotel 
engrossed  the  novelist's  mind.  He  gives  a  somewhat  humorous 
account  of  his  initiation  into  American  hotel  customs  :  — 

" '  Dinner,  if  you  please,'  said  I  to  the  waiter. 

"  '  When  1 '  said  the  waiter. 

"  '  As  quick  as  possible,'  said  I. 

"  '  Right  away  '.' '  said  the  waiter. 

"  After  a  moment's  hesitation,  I  answered  '  No,'  at  hazard. 

" '  Not  right  away  ? '  cried  the  waiter,  with  an  amount  of  surprise 
that  made  me  start. 

"  I  looked  at  him  doubtfully,  and  returned,  '  No  ;  I  would  rather 
have  it  in  this  private  room.     I  like  it  very  much.' 

"  At  this,  I  really  thought  the  waiter  must  have  gone  out  of  his 
mind  ;  as  I  believe  he  would  have  done,  but  for  the  interposition  of 
another  man  who  whispered  in  his  ear,  '  Directly.' 

"  '  Well  !  and  that 's  a  fact ! '  said  the  waiter,  looking  helplessly  at 
me.     '  Right  away.' 

"  I  now  saw  that  '  right  away '  and  '  directly '  were  one  and  the 
same  thing.  So  I  reversed  my  previous  answer,  and  sat  down  to 
dinner  in  ten  minutes  afterwards,  and  a  capital  dinner  it  was. 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  291 

':  The  hotel  (a  very  excellent  one)  is  called  the  Tremont  House. 
It  has  more  galleries,  colonnades,  piazzas,  and  passages  than  I  can 
remember,  or  the  reader  would  believe." 

Lieutenant  Derby,  better  known  as  John  Phoenix,  humor- 
ously reviews  the  prospect  of  the  burial-ground  from  the 
windows,  which  he  considered,  not  without  some  degree  of 
plausibility,  part  and  parcel  of  all  Boston  hotels.  Derby  was 
a  very  clever  artist,  and  used  to  draw  comic  caricatures  on  the 
blackboard  of  Jones's  in  San  Francisco.  This  was  before  the 
merchants  had  an  exchange  there,  and  Phoenix  was  accustomed 
to  put  himself  under  the  head  of  ship  arrivals,  instead  of  regis- 
tering his  name  at  the  office. 

The  little  garden  beyond  the  hotel,  and  next  the  cemetery, 
was  once  a  house-lot,  on  which  stood  a  modest  little  brick 
dwelling,  built  by  a  Mr.  Newman.  The  hotel  displaced  three 
ante-Eevolutionary  houses  :  one,  fronting  Beacon  Street,  was 
the  residence  of  John  Parker  ;  the  corner  of  Tremont  was  an 
open  lot,  with  handsome  horse-chestnut  trees,  belonging  to  an 
old-fashioned  house  with  the  end  to  the  street,  the  mansion  of 
the  Hubbard  family.  Next  was  a  house  built  by  Thomas  Per- 
kins, whose  wife  was  a  Mascarene.  It  fronted  on  the  street, 
and  had  a  garden. 

The  old  Tremont  Theatre  stood  on  the  spot  now  covered  by 
the  Tremont  Temple.  The  corner-stone  was  laid  on  the  morn- 
ing of  July  4,  1827.  The  theatre  was  built  so  rapidly  thai  a 
performance  took  place  on  the  24th  of  September.  "  Wives  as 
they  Were,  and  Maids  as  they  Are,"  was  the  piece  chosen  by 
Mr.  Pelby.  Ostinelli,  the  father  of  the  since  famous  Eli/a 
Biscaccianti,  led  the  orchestra.  W.  P.  Blake  read  the  prize 
address,  — the  same  eminent  comedian  so  long  connected  with 
the  New  York  theatres. 

Mr.  Pelby  was  the  prime  mover  in  the  project  to  erect  another 
theatre,  which  had  professedly  for  its  object  the  elevation  of  the 
character  of  the  Boston  stage.  But  little  opposition  was  en- 
countered from  the  Boston  Theatre  proprietors.  A  company 
was  organized  in  February,  and  the  work  pressed  to  early  com- 
pletion.    We  give  the  cast  for  the  opening  night :  — 


292  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

TREMONT  THEATRE. 

The  public  is  respectfully  informed  that  the  Tremont  .Theatre 

Will  open 

On  Monday  Evening,  September  24. 

SSf  The  Orchestra  will  embrace  the  most  distinguished  musical  talent  in  the 

country.     Leader Mr.  Ostinelli. 

There  will  be  presented  Mrs.  Inchbald's  Comedy,  called 
WIVES    AS    THEY  WERE,   AND    MAIDS    AS    THEY  ARE. 

Lord  Priory,  Mr.  Herbert. 

Sir  William  Dorillon,  Mr.  Webb. 

Sir  George  Evelyn,  Mr.  Reed. 

Mr.  Browzly,  Mr.  Blake. 

Mr.  Norberry,  Mr.  Forbes. 

Oliver,  Mr.  J.  Mills  Brown. 

Miss  Dorillon,  Mrs.  Blake. 

Lady  Mary  Raffle,  Mrs.  Young. 

Lady  Priory,  Mrs.  Pelby. 

Previous  to  the  Comedy,  the  Prize  address  will  be  delivered  by  Mr.  Blake. 
The  entertainment  to  conclude  with  the  Farce  of  the 
LADY  AND   THE   DEVIL. 

The  elder  Booth  succeeded  Pelby  in  the  management  of  the 
second  season,  but  withdrew  before  it  ended.  Wilson  and 
Russell  successively  conducted,  the  latter  bringing  out  the  cele- 
brated Master  Burke,  who  produced  an  unparalleled  excitement. 
For  twenty-five  nights  he  filled  the  house  with  fashionable  au- 
diences.    Messrs.  Barrett  and  Barry  Avere  subsequent  managers. 

The  Tremont  always  maintained  a  high  standing,  though  its 
patronage  fell  off  in  later  years.  It  is  noticeable  as  the  first 
Boston  house  in  which  operas  were  produced.  Many  sterling 
actors  have  appeared  here,  among  whom  the  veteran  John 
Gilbert  and  wife  still  hold  a  high  place  in  general  esteem. 
Finn  played  here,  investing  his  parts  with  a  quaint  fine  humor 
that  seldom  failed  to  set  the  house  in  a  roar.  In  1842  the 
Tremont  ceased  to  be  a  theatre,  having  been  sold  to  the  Baptist 
Society  of  Rev.  Dr.  Colver.  The  interior  was  remodelled,  and 
received  the  name  of  the  Tremont  Temple.  The  present  build- 
ing is  the  second,  the  first  having  been  destroyed  by  fire  on 
Wednesday,  March  31,  1852.  The  falling  walls  crushed  and 
bruised  a  number  of  persons. 

The  Theatre  was  a  plain  substantial  edifice  with  granite  front, 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  293 

in  imitation  of  the  Ionic,  with  pillars  supporting  an  entabla- 
ture  and  pediment.  The  entrance  doors  were  arched,  opening 
into  a  wide  hall  from  which  ascended  a  staircase  to  the  boxes 
of  the  dress  circle.  There  were  lohhies  for  promenade,  with- 
drawing-rooms,  and  a  pretty  saloon  in  the  centre.  Isaiah 
Rogers  was  the  architect.  The  house  had  a  third  tier  and  pit. 
It  was  sold  for  about  $  55,000. 

Elihu  Burritt,  the  learned  blacksmith,  lectured  in  the  theatre 
before  its  alteration,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Church  Society. 
Under  the  auspices  of  the  Mercantde  Library  Association, 
Webster,  Choate,  and  Everett  have  delivered  addresses  in  the 
Temple,  while  Jenny  Lind  and  Catherine  Hays  have  here 
poured  forth  their  golden  notes  to  enraptured  audiences.  Here, 
too,  Gliddon  unrolled  his  mummy  in  presence  of  astonished 
spectators,  and  set  the  medical  fraternity  in  a  fever  of  ex- 
citement. Last,  but  not  least,  came  Charles  Dickens,  to  in- 
terpret his  own  incomparable  works. 

In  the  building  adjoining  the  Temple  are  the  quarters  of  the 
Independent  Cadets,  the  oldest  military  organization,  nexl  to 
the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Company,  in  I  lost  mi.  This 
corps  was  instituted  in  178G,  but  existed  prior  to  that  time. 
It  was  first  styled  the  Governor's  Foot  Guards.  The  comman- 
ders had  the  rank  of  lieutenant-colonel.  Leonard  Jarvis  was 
the  commander  in  1768,  and  John  Hancock  was  elected  in 
1772,  receiving  his  commission  from  Governor  Hutchinson. 
The  Boston  Gazette  of  May  12,  1772,  contains  the  following 
advertisement  :  — 

"Wanted,  Immediately,  For  His  Excellency's  Company  of  <  ladets, 
Two  Fifers  that  understand  Playing.  Those  that  are  Masters  of 
Musick,  and  are  inclined  to  engage  with  the  Company,  are  desired 
to  apply  to  Col.  John  Hancock." 

The  company  received  General  Gage  when  he  landed  at 
Long  Wharf,  in  May,  1771.  and  escorted  him  to  the  Court 
House  and  thence  to  the  Province  House,  hie  residence.  The 
general  had  caused  a.  beautiful  silk  standard  with  his  arms  em- 
broidered thereon  to  be  made  in  London,  and  presented  to  the 
Cadets.    Becoming,  however,  jealous  and  suspicious  of  11a neck. 


294  .  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

the  governor  revoked  his  commission  through  Thomas  Flucker, 
his  secretary,  upon  which  the  corps  disbanded,  and  through  a 
committee  returned  the  standard  to  Gage  at  Danvers. 

In  1778  the  Cadets  were  redivivi,  being  then  commanded 
by  Colonel  Hichborn.  In  that  year  they  took  part  in  the  ex- 
pedition to  Rhode  Island,  as  did  also  the  Light  Infantry  Com- 
pany. Hancock,  their  old  commander,  was  now  major-general, 
and  accompanied  them.  The  first  parade  of  the  Cadets  after 
the  peace  was  in  1785.  Colonel  T.  H.  Perkins  commanded  in 
1789. 

Bromfield  Street  was  named,  in  179G,  for  Honorable  Edward 
Bromfield,  a  distinguished  merchant,  whose  mansion  stood  on 
the  site  of  the  Bromfield  House.  Previously  it  was  Eawson's 
Lane;  it  continued  to  be  called  Bromfield's  Lane  until  1829. 

The  Horticultural  Building  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Museum.  Montgomery  Place  is  of  modern  origin.  Bumstead 
Place,  once  the  abode  of  Adino  Paddock,  coach  and  chariot 
builder  for  the  gentry  of  Boston  and  the  country  round,  has 
been  sealed  by  a  solid  wall  of  buildings,  saving  only  the  en- 
trance to  Music  Hall.  Paddock  was  a  hot  tory,  and  left  Bos- 
ton with  the  royal  party.  His  estate,  it  is  said,  fell  into  the 
hands  of  Bumstead,  a  coach-maker  like  himself,  from  whom 
the  place  took  its  name. 

Paddock  is  entitled  to  grateful  remembrance  for  the  noble 
English  elms  he  planted  opposite  his  habitation,  known  as 
Paddock's  Mall.  The  year  1762  has  been  assigned  as  the 
probable  period  of  their  setting  out,  consequently  they  have 
stood  considerably  more  than  a  hundred  years,  though  they 
now  show  symptoms  of  decay.  The  trees  came  from  England. 
They  were  kept  for  a  time  in  a  nursery  at  Milton,  untd  placed 
here  by  Paddock,  assisted  by  John  Ballard  and  John  Crane  ; 
the  latter  a  member  of  Paddock's  train  of  artillery.  "  Pad- 
dock's "Walk  "  and  "  Eow  "  are  other  names  by  which  the  mall 
has  been  called. 

These  trees  have  been  subject  to  many  vicissitudes.  Three 
of  them  have  been  removed  and  eleven  are  left  standing. 
Mutilation  has  done  its  work  upon  them.      The  storms  of  a 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  295 

century  have  wrenched  their  blanches,  until  the  naked  trunks 
are  scarce  concealed  in  the  scanty  foliage.  The  great  gale  of 
1815  did  them  much  damage.  Some  injury  was  done  to  the 
growing  trees  during  the  rejoicings  over  the  repeal  of  the  -Stamp 
Act.  The  British  troops,  perhaps  out  of  sympathy  with  their 
tory  adherent,  did  them  no  harm,  though  the  trees  of  the  great 
mall  were  less  respected.  But  the  greatest  enemy  to  the  exist- 
ence of  the  trees  is  found  in  the  spirit  of  improvement,  which 
seeks  to  make  a  modern  city  out  of  Old  Boston.  An  abortive 
effort  to  have  them  removed  was  made  in  18G0;  and  again, 
while  we  write,  they  are  marked  for  destruction. 

"  Woodman,  spare  that  tree  ! 

Touch  not  a  single  bough  ! 
In  youth  it  sheltered  me, 

And  I  '11  protect  it  now. 
'T  was  my  forefather's  hand 

That  placed  it  near  his  cot ; 
There,  woodman,  let  it  stand, 

Thy  axe  shall  harm  it  not." 

Paddock  was,  in  1774,  captain  of  the  train  of  artillery  he- 
longing  to  the  Boston  Regiment,  of  which  John  Erving  was 
colonel.  This  company  was  particularly  distinguished  for  its 
superior  discipline  and  the  excellence  of  its  material.  In  this 
school  were  raised  two  artillery  officers  of  high  repute  in  the 
Revolutionary  army,  namely,  Colonel -John  Crane  and  General 
Ebenezer  Stevens.  Both  were  housewrights,  and  the  company 
was  itself  composed  of  mechanics.  The  two  oflicers  named  are 
not  the  only  ones  who  gained  distinction  in  the  battle  fields  of 
the  old  war.  Paddock,  on  his  return  to  England,  was  frequently 
consulted  by  the  ministry  about  American  affairs,  and  received 
the  military  command  of  the  island  of  Jersey.  In  17GD  Pad- 
dock was  one  of  the  firewards  of  the  town  of  Boston,  associated 
with  John  Hancock,  Samuel  Adams,  Thomas  Dawes,  and  others. 

George  Cabot,  a  prominent  leader  of  the  Massachusetts  Fed- 
eralists, lived  in  the  first  house  in  Bumstead  Place  in  1810. 
He  was  in  early  life  like  the  old  navigators,  his  namesakes,  a 
sailor,  and  became  a  very  successful  men-bant  ;  was  president 
of  the  United  States  Branch  Bank  in  the  year  mentioned,  hav- 


296  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

ing  a  conceded  reputation  as  a  financier.  "While  in  the  United 
States  Senate  in  1791  -9G,  Hamilton,  the  founder  6f  our  finan- 
cial system,  often  conferred  with  him.  Mr.  Cabot  incurred 
great  odium  for  his  connection  with  the  Hartford  Convention 
in  1814,  of  which  body  he  was  president.  Aaron  Burr  said 
of  him  when  in  the  Senate,  that  "  he  never  spoke  but  light  fol- 
lowed him." 

Granary  Burial-Ground  is  notable  for  the  honored  ashes 
it  contains.  It  dates  back  to  1660,  and  was  first  called  the 
"  South  Burying- Ground  "  ;  the  subsequent  name  of  "  Granary  " 
was  from  the  town  granary,  which  stood  within  the  enclosure. 
It  is  necessary  to  say  here  that  the  Common  originally  extended 
in  this  direction  to  the  Tremont  House,  and  the  cemetery  is 
formed  from  its  ancient  territory.  The  eastern  margin  reached 
to  Mason  Street,  and  Tremont  Street  therefore  runs  through 
the  Common,  as  it  originally  was.  After  the  creation  of  the 
Common  Burying-Ground,  the  Granary  was  sometimes  styled 
the  "  Middle  "  Ground. 

"  I  like  that  ancient  Saxon  phrase  which  calls 
The  burial-ground  God's  Acre  !     It  is  just ; 
It  consecrates  eacli  grave  within  its  walls, 
And  breathes  a  benison  o'er  the  sleeping  dust." 

The  Checkleys,  Byfields,  Lydes,  Faneuils,  "Wendells,  and  a 
host  of  the  old  Bostonians,  Governors  Bellingham,  Dumnier, 
Hancock,  Adams,  Bowdoin,  Cushing,  Sullivan,  Eustis,  and 
Sumner  lie  beneath  the  sod  in  this  cemetery.  The  celebrated 
surgeon,  Dr.  John  Jeffries,  Uriah  Cotting,  Bev.  Messrs.  Eckley, 
Belknap,  Stillman,  Lathrop,  and  Baldwin,  and  Judge  Sewall 
and  John  Hull,  are  also  entombed  here. 

The  Bellingham  family  becoming  extinct,  his  tomb  was 
given  to  the  family  of  Governor  James  Sullivan.  It  lies  on 
the  west  side  of  the  enclosure.  The  Faneuil  inscription  was 
chiselled  Funal  by  some  awkward  hand,  who  thus  clipped  the 
old  Huguenot  patronymic  of  its  due  proportions.  Governor 
Hancock's  tomb  is  on  the  Park  Street  side.  His  remains,  after 
lying  eight  days  in  state,  were  brought  to  their  last  resting- 
place  by  an   immense   concourse  of   people.      The   venerable 


A   TOUR   ROUND   THE   COMMON. 


297 


Samuel  Adams  followed  the  bier  until  fatigue  compelled  him 
to  retire.  It  was  one  of  the  greatest  funeral  pageants  Boston 
had  seen.     The  ranks  of  the  procession  were  swelled  by  the 


GRANARY    RT'RYINI AGROUND. 


militia  of  town  and  country.  The  Judges  of  the  Supreme 
Court  on  this  occasion  made  their  last  appearance  in  their  big 
wigs  and  black  silk  gowns.  They  were  followed  by  the  barris- 
ters in  black  gowns  and  club  wigs. 

General  "Warren's  remains  were  placed  in  the  tomb  of  the 
Minots,  next  to  that  of  Hancock,  and  immediately  in  rear  of 
the  residence  of  Dr.  J.  C.  Warren,  after  they  were  exhumed  at 
Bunker  Hill. 

The  cemetery  acquires  an  even  greater  interest  from  being 
the  place  where  the  victims  of  the  Boston  Massacre  were  buried. 
Their  funeral  was  conducted  with  greal  pomp  ;  bul  although 
their  martyrdom  has  been  heralded  as  the  foundation-stone  of 
American  Liberty,  the  remains  of  the  slaughtered  Bostonians 
13* 


298  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

have  received  no  fitting  testimonial  from  their  countrymen. 
The  spot  was  long  indicated  by  a  larch-tree,  but  .this,  falling  to 
decay,  has  been  recently  replaced  by  the  care  of  Mr.  Appollonio. 

The  Franklin  cenotaph  stands  out  in  bold  relief  in  the  midst 
of  the  field  of  the  dead.  Under  it  repose  the  dust  of  both  of 
Franklin's  parents.  The  monument  was  erected  through  the 
exertions  of  a  few  citizens  in  1827,  and  the  ceremony  of  laying 
the  corner-stone  was  attended  by  the  governor,  lieutenant-gov- 
ernor, and  many  other  officials.  General  H.  A.  S.  Dearborn 
delivered  an  address ;  some  Franklin  School  medals  were  appro- 
priately placed  underneath. 

I3y  the  year  1738  both  this  and  King's  Chapel  ground  be- 
came so  filled  with  the  dead  that  the  grave-diggers  were  obliged 
to  bury  them  four  deep.  In  this  year  the  brick  wall  and  tombs 
were  erected  on  the  front  of  the  old,  or  Chapel,  burying-place. 
The  Granary  ground  was  enlarged  in  1716  —  17  by  taking  in 
part  of  the  highway  on  the  easterly  side,  but  in  about  twenty 
years  it  became  overcrowded,  as  we  have  seen,  and  the  town 
began  to  cast  about  for  a  new  location.  It  was  not  until  after 
the  date  last  mentioned  that  any  tombs  were  erected  here. 

Where  was  there  ever  a  graveyard  without  its  attendant  hor- 
rors 1  Tradition  is  responsible  for  the  statement  that  the  hand 
of  Hancock  was  severed  from  the  arm  the  night  after  his  inter- 
ment ;  but  this  proved  a  cruel  invention.  An  instance  is  given 
of  an  empty  tomb  being  taken  possession  of  by  some  wandering 
vagrants,  from  which  they  terrified  the  neighborhood  by  the 
sound  of  midnight  revelry.  Human  jackals  have  practised 
here  their  hateful  calling,  robbing  the  graves  of  their  peaceful 
inhabitants. 

The  stone  wall  and  fence  were  erected  under  the  administra- 
tion of  Mayor  Armstrong.  It  is  now  proposed  to  carry  a  new 
avenue  across  the  cemetery.  This  being  done,  the  remains  of 
the  greatest  and  most  honored  of  our  ancestors  will  be  scattered 
far  and  near. 

"  Imperial  Ciesar,  dead,  and  turned  to  clay, 
Might  stop  a  hole  to  keep  the  wind  away." 

!N~ext  the  burial-ground  stood  the  Old  Granary.     It  was  a 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  299 

long  wooden  building,  erected  iir.st  at  the  upper  side  of  the  Com- 
mon, hut  removed  about  1737  to  the  present  site  of  the  church. 
It  was  established  so  as  to  have  a  supply  of  grain,  especially 
in  cases  of  scarcity,  where  the  poor  might  purchase  the  smallest 
quantities  at  a  small  advance  on  the  cost.  The  building  con- 
tained, when  full,  twelve  thousand  bushels,  and  was  the  largest 
in  the  town.  The  selectmen  appointed  a  keeper  at  their  March 
meeting,  also  a  committee  for  the  purchase  of  grain.  John 
Fenno,  a  noted  wit,  was  keeper  before  the  Revolution.  It  was 
not  used  as  a  granary  after  the  American  Avar,  but  was  occupied 
by  various  minor  town  officials.  In  1795  the  town  voted  to 
sell  the  building,  on  condition  of  an  early  removal.  Still  it 
remained  tenanted  by  various  tradesmen,  refreshment  stands, 
etc.,  until  1809,  when  it  was  removed  to  Commercial  Point, 
Dorchester,  and  altered  into  a  hotel.  There  it  may  now  be 
seen.  We  have  noticed  that  the  Constitution's  sails  were  made 
in  the  Granary. 

All  the  land  upon  which  Park  Street  is  built  belonged  to  the 
Common,  and  was  at  an  early  day  appropriated  to  uses  of  the 
town  for  various  institutions.  The  street  was  first  called  ( lentry 
Street,  from  its  leading  up  to  Gentry  Hill,  as  the  summit  of 
Beacon  Hill  was  called. 

The  Almshouse  was  first  erected  on  Beacon  Street,  in  1GG2. 
It  was  burnt  in  1682,  measures  being  then  taken  to  rebuild  it. 
The  reconstructed  building  was  a  two-story  brick,  with  a  gable 
roof,  fronting  on  Beacon  Street;  it  was  of  an  L  shape.  This 
was  designed  as  a  home  for  the  poor,  aged,  or  infirm.  It  was 
soon  found  that  the  mingling  under  the  same  rout'  of  persons 
deserving  charity  with  those  confined  for  offences  against  the 
laws  was  an  evil  demanding  a  remedy,  and  measures  were 
taken,  in  1712,  to  build  a  Bridewell,  or  House  of  Correction. 
This  was  erected  in  Park  Street,  in  what  year  <\"<-*  nof  appear, 
but  it  is  shown  on  the  map  of  17:22.  A  part  of  this  house  was 
applied  to  the  use  of  the  insane. 

A  Workhouse  was  erected  in  1738,  contiguous  to  the  Bride- 
well, It  was  a  large,  handsome  brick  building,  being  the 
Common,  of   two  stories,  gable  roof,  and  was  a  hundred  and 


300  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

twenty  feet  in  length.  This  building  was  devoted  to  the  con- 
finement of  minor  offenders,  such  as  the  province  law  styled 
"  rogues  and  vagabonds." 

The  Almshouse  became,  in  the  lapse  of  years,  totally  inade- 
quate to  its  purposes.  It  had  no  proper  ventilation,  nor  sepa- 
rate hospital  for  the  treatment  of  the  sick  ;  bad  air,  filth,  and 
overcrowding  told  fearfully  upon  the  inmates.  No  remedy  was 
applied  to  these  evils  until  1801,  when  a  new  building  was 
erected  in  Leverett  Street.  During  the  Revolutionary  War  the 
inmates  frequently  suffered  for  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  appear 
to  have  been  at  all  times  largely  dependent  on  the  charity  of 
the  townspeople.  In  1795  the  town  sold  all  its  property  on 
Park  and  Beacon  Streets,  except  the  Granary  or  church  lot. 

Both  Almshouse  and  Workhouse  were  under  the  government 
of  the  overseers  of  the  poor,  represented  by  keepers.  The 
inmates  of  the  former,  whatever  may  have  been  their  temporal 
needs,  were  cared  for  spiritually,  a  sermon  being  preached  to 
them  every  Sunday  in  summer.  Captain  Keayne,  in  1656,  left 
a  legacy  of  £  120,  and  Mr.  Webb,  in  1660,  one  of  £  100,  foi 
the  founding  of  the  Almshouse,  which  was  received  and  applied 
by  the  town  in  1662.  The  former  also  left  a  sum  to  be  used 
in  building  a  granary.  Both  Workhouse  and  Almshouse  were 
occupied  by  the  British  wounded  after  Bunker  Hill. 

Adjoining  the  Bridewell  was  the  Pound,  situated  where  the 
Quincy  residence  now  is.  Such  were  the  antecedents  of  Park 
and  Beacon  Streets. 

For  a  long  time  the  handsome  spire  of  Park  Street  Church 
was  the  highest  object  seen  on  approaching  the  city.  It,  how- 
ever, succumbed  to  its  neighbor  in  Somerset  Street,  placed  at  a 
greater  altitude.  As  one  of  the  monuments  of  the  Common  it 
is  inseparable  from  the  landscape,  the  slender,  graceful  steeple 
rising  majestically  above  the  tree-tops  from  any  point  of  obser- 
vation. The  little  monitor  of  the  weather  on  its  pinnacle 
recalls  the  lines  of  Albert  G.  Greene  :  — 

"  The  dawn  has  broke,  the  morn  is  up, 

Another  day  begun  ; 
And  there  thy  poised  and  gilded  spear 
Is  flashing  in  the  sun, 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  301 

Upon  that  steep  and  lofty  tower, 

Where  thou  thy  watch  hast  kept, 
A  true  and  faithful  sentinel, 

While  all  around  thee  slept." 

The  church  was  erected  in  1809,  and  was  the  first  Congrega- 
tional Society  constituted  since  1748.  From  the  fervor  of  the 
doctrines  preached  within  its  walls,  its  site  has  heen  known  as 
"Brimstone  Corner,"  —  a  name  too  suggestive  to  be  agreeable. 


PARK    STREET   CHURCH. 


Edward  D.  Griffin,  D.  P.,  was  the  first  pastor.  Dwight,  I  teecher, 
Stone,  and  other  gifted  preachers  have  occupied  its  pulpit. 
Underneath  were  vaults  —  long  since  removed  —  for  the  dead. 
Peter  Banner,  an  English  architect,  the  same  who  made  the  plan 
for  the  fine  old  mansion-house  of  Eben  Crafts  in  Roxbury,  de- 
signed this  church. 

The  Manufactory  House  of  the  old  colony  times  stood  on  the 
east  side  of  what  is  Hamilton  Place.  The  weal  end  fronted 
Long  Acre,  or  Tremont  Street,  and  had  delineated  upon  the 


302 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


LIJJEN   SPIXNING-WHEEL. 


wall  a  female  figure,  distaff  in  hand,  symbolic  of  the  industry 
it  was  intended  to  promote. 

The  establishment  of  spinning-schools  is  an  interesting  inci- 
dent in  the  history  of  Boston.     The 
manufacture  of  cotton  had  begun  as 
early  as  1G43,  the  raw  material  being 
\      obtained  from  the  "West  Indies.     In 
IT      1GG5,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  cloth, 
H|  the  court  ordered  spinning  to  be  em- 
l   ployed  in  private  families,  some  abate- 
ment from  the  rates  being  made  as 
compensation. 

About  1718  a  number  of  colonists 
arrived  from  Londonderry,  bringing 
with  them  the  manufacture  of  linen  and  the  implements  used 
in  Ireland.  The  matter  was  earnestly  taken  up  by  the  Bosto- 
nians,  and  a  vote  passed  to  establish  a  spinning-school  on  the 
waste  land  in  front  of  Captain  Southack's,  —  about  where  Scol- 
lay's  buildings  were.  These  emigrants  likewise  introduced  the 
general  use  of  their  favorite  vegetable,  the  potato. 

From  these  beginnings  dates  the  establishment  of  the  ^Manu- 
factory House  by  the  province.  "William  Phillips,  Molineux, 
and  others  carried  the  measure  through  the  General  Court.  An 
excise  was  laid  on  carriages  and 
articles  of  luxury  to  erect  the  build- 
ing. Spinning  now  became  the 
order  of  the  day.  Young  and  old, 
rich  and  poor,  repaired  to  the  Com- 
mon with  their  spinning-wheels, 
great  and  small,  stimulated  by  a 
premium  offered  to  the  most  skilful. 
Many  were  clad  in  garments  of  their 
own  manufacture  as  evidence  of 
their  industry,  and  on  the  appointed 
days  the  mall  resounded  with  the 
hum  of  busy  wheels.  The  novelty  soon  wore  off,  and  after 
three  or  four  years  the  manufacture  wholly  ceased.    For  a  short 


WOOLLEN   SPIXX1XG-WHEEL. 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  303 

time  afterwards  it  was  used  for  the  manufacture  of  worsted 
hose,  metal  buttons,  etc.,  but  in  1768  was  rented  by  the  prov- 
ince and  occupied  by  private  families. 

At  this  time  it  acquired  celebrity  from  the  attempt  made  by 
Colonel  Dalrymple,  of  the  14th  royal  regulars,  to  obtain  it  for 
quarters  for  his  regiment;  but  the  tenants,  with  Mr.  Elisha 
Brown  at  their  head,  flatly  refused  them  admission.  Governor 
Bernard  issued  his  mandate,  which  was  served  by  the  sheriff, 
ordering  the  surrender  of  the  premises;  but  the  doors  were 
securely  closed,  and  Brown  boldly  denied  the  right  of  Bernard 
to  dispossess  him.  The  wily  lieutenant-governor  tried  next  to 
induce  the  tenants  to  open,  but  with  no  greater  success,  and  at 
last  a  stratagem  was  tried.  The  sheriff  and  his  deputies  ob- 
tained an  entrance  to  the  cellar,  but  instead  of  securing  the 
obstinate  tenant,  were  by  him  made  close  prisoners  in  the 
cellar,  where  they  remained  until  a  hie  of  soldiers  from  the  ( !om- 
mon  came  and  released  them. 

Thus  did  Elisha  Brown  make  good  his  resistance  against  tin' 
combined  civil  and  military  authority  of  the  province,  after 
enduring  a  state  of  siege  for  several  weeks.  A  gravestone  in 
the  Granary  commemorates  his  gallant  vindication  of  private 
rights.     Dalrymple's  men  were  quartered  in  Faneuil  Hall. 

The  Massachusetts  Bank  was  first  located  in  this  building. 
It  was  instituted  in  1784,  in  which  year  the  bank  became  a 
purchaser  of  the  building,  sold  by  order  of  the  General  Court. 
Banking  was  a  very  different  affair  in  those  days  from  what  it 
is  at  present.  Articles  of  merchandise  were  received  as  security 
for  loans,  and  an  entertaining  picture  might  be  drawn  of  the 
procession  drawn  up  before  the  doors  on  discount  days.  One 
half  per  cent  per  month  was  the  rate  demanded,  and  no  credil 
could  exceed  sixty  days.  Governor  Bowdoin  was  the  lir.-t 
president. 

The  building  was  of  two  stories,  of  brick,  with  an  entrance  on 
Hamilton  Place  by  a  flight  of  do>d ile  stone  steps  protected  by  an 
iron  railing.  It  was  used  by  the  British  during  the  occupation, 
and  received  its  quota  of  the  wounded  from  Bunker  Hill. 
Various   families   occupied   it   in   after   years  ;   also   P.  A.  von 


304  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON7. 

Hagen,  a  pioneer  in  the  manufacture  of  pianofortes.  In  1806 
it  was  pulled  down,  and  Hamilton  Place  then'  built.  The 
Manufactory  House  was  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  long,  with 
an  unobstructed  southerly  view  in  1784.  It  had  a  large  hall 
in  the  centre,  with  wings  fifty  feet  long  extending  upon  either 
side  ;  underneath  was  an  excellent  cellar,  the  same  in  which 
Sheriff  Greenleaf  sojourned.  The  central  part  was  occupied  by 
the  bank,  giving  twenty  other  apartments  for  tenants.  The 
land  belonging  to  it  covered  the  whole  place. 

At  the  corner  of  Hamilton  Place  Messrs.  J.  E.  Osgood  and 
Company  continue  the  publication  of  the  leading  periodical  of 
the  country.  The  originator  of  the  North  American  Review 
was  William  Tudor,  son  of  Hon.  Judge  Tudor,  and  one  of  the 
founders  of  the  Anthology  Club.  The  first  four  volumes  of 
the  Peview,  which  was  first  published  in  1811,  are  said  to  be 
almost  entirely  from  his  hand  ;  the  first  number,  even  to  the 
literary  notices,  was,  as  Mr.  Tudor  himself  stated,  wholly  writ- 
ten by  him.  Mr.  Tudor,  as  the  agent  of  his  brother  Frederick, 
established  in  1805  the  traffic  in  ice  with  the  West  Indies, 
which  has  grown  to  such  prodigious  proportions.  He  was  also 
the  first  to  draw  public  attention  to  the  erection  of  a  monument 
on  Bunker  Hill,  but  did  not  five  to  see  its  completion. 

As  we  are  trenching .  on  the  limits  of  Long  Acre,  a  Revolu- 
tionary incident  rises  into  view.  Here,  on  the  morning  of  the 
19th  of  April,  Earl  Percy  ranged  his  columns  for  the  march  to 
Lexington.  Colonel  Smith  had  sent  a  courier  requesting  rein- 
forcements, and  Percy  was  to  command  them.  His  brigade, 
made  up  of  eight  companies  of  three  regiments  of  infantry, 
the  4th,  23d,  and  49th,  detachments  of  Pitcairn's  marines, 
and  tAvo  pieces  of  artillery,  extended  from  the  head  of  the  mall 
to  Court  Street,  opposite  the  school-house  of  Master  Carter. 
Percy,  mounted  on  a  white  horse,  galloped  up  and  down  his 
ranks.  The  school,  thrown  into  a  ferment  by  the  unusual 
spectacle,  was  dismissed  by  the  master  with  the  speech,  — 
"  Boys,  war  has  begun  ;  the  school  is  broken  up." 

The  column  took  up  its  march  over  the  Neck  to  the  tune  of 
Yankee  Doodle.     Percy  seems  to  have  stood  high  in  the  confi- 


A  TOUK  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  305 

deuce  of  his  general,  and,  in  fact,  he  appears  to  have  been  a 

universal  favorite.     The  return  from  the  march  in  which  the 

provincials 

"  Taught  Percy  fashionable  races, 

And  modern  modes  of  Chevy-chaces," 

is  celebrated  in  the  Revolutionary  ballad  in  this  wise  :  — 

"  Lord  Piercy  seemed  to  snore,  —  but  may  the  muse 
This  ill-timed  snoring  to  the  peer  excuse. 
Tired  was  the  long  boy  of  his  toilsome  day  ; 
Full  fifteen  miles  he  fled,  —  a  tedious  way  ; 
How  should  he  then  the  dews  of  Somnus  shun, 
Perhaps  not  used  to  walk,  much  less  to  run." 

The  Common  is  now,  as  under  the  government  of  John  Win- 
throp,  the  common  land  of  the  inhabitants  of  Boston.  Its 
original  purpose  was  for  pasturage  and  military  parade.  From 
the  earliest  times  until  after  Boston  became  a  city,  the  tinkling 
of  bells  and  lowing  of  cattle  might  be  heard  across  its  hills  and 
dales.  It  was,  after  its  purchase  from  Blackstone,  preserved 
from  encroachment  by  a  vote  passed  March  30,  1G-I0  :  — 

"  Ordered,  that  no  more  land  be  granted  in  the  Town  out  of  the 
open  ground  or  common  field,  which  is  between  (.'entry  Hill  and 
Mr.  Colbron's  end,  except  3  or  4  lots  to  make  vp  the  street  from 
Bro.  Robt.  Walker's  to  the  Round  Marsh." 

Colbron's  field  was  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Common,  lying 
along  Pleasant  Street  and  the  water,  to  Washington  Street.  It 
was  Boylston  Street  that  the  selectmen  bad  in  view. 

No  other  city  in  America  has  fifty  acres  of  green  turf  and 
noble  forest  trees  in  its  very  midst.  Its  central  position  renders 
it  accessible  from  every  quarter  of  the  town,  and,  although  it  is 
not  dignified  with  the  name  of  a  park,  it  is  at  once  the  glory 
and  beauty  of  the  ancient  peninsula.  We  shall  take  up  its 
features  as  we  pass  along  under  the  green  arches  of  the  Great 
Mall. 

Upon  the  earliest  map  you  will  see  but  three  toes  on  the 
Common.  These  were  the  monarch,  then  and  still  known  aa 
the  "great  tree,"  and  two  of  respectable  Bize  standing  near  the 
middle  of  Park  Street.  The  iirst  trees  planted  were  the  miter 
row  on  Tremont  Street,  between  17:22  and   1729.      A   second 

T 


30 G  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

row  was  placed  there  in  1734,  and  the  third  was  added  fifty 
years  later,  —  some  authorities  say  before  the  Involution.  This 
walk  was  long  known  as  "  The  Mall,"  there  being  no  other 
within  the  Common,  until  that  next  Beacon  Street  was  laid  out 
in  1815  -  16.  Charles  Street  was  the  next  laid  out,  in  1823  ; 
and  Park  Street  Mall,  in  182G,  under  the  elder  Quincy's  may- 
oralty. 

It  has  been  stated,  on  the  authority  of  the  son  of  one  of 
those  employed,  that  the  first  trees  of  the  Great  Mall,  set  out 
near  the  Park  Street  Church,  were  planted  by  the  apprentices 
of  Adam  Colson  the  elder,  then  one  of  the  selectmen  of  the 
town.  One  of  the  apprentices  was  named  Hurd.  Colson 
was  a  leather-dresser,  and  lived  in  Frog  Lane,  now  Boylston 
Street. 

But  the  Great  Mall  was  not  at  the  beginning  of  this  century, 
as  now,  a  grove  of  near  a  third  of  a  mile  in  length.  The 
large  trees  scarcely  extended  below  West  Street,  those  beyond 
being  merely  saplings.  That  part  of  the  Common  forming  the 
southeast  corner,  comprising  a  Little  more  than  two  acres,  and 
lying  east  of  the  burying-ground,  was  not  acquired  until  1787, 
when  it  was  purchased  of  William  Foster,  whose  mansion  stood 
where  now  the  Hotel  Pelham  is.  The  tract  acquired  was  known 
as  Foster's  Pasture. 

The  British  soldiers,  with  a  truly  vandal  spirit,  cut  down 
several  of  the  largest  trees  in  the  mall  the  morning  they  evac- 
uated the  town.  A  large  number  had  before  been  sacrificed  to 
provide  fuel,  but  this  was  the  act  of  malice  alone.  The  surface 
of  the  Common  was  greatly  disfigured  by  cellars  and  ditches 
dug  throughout  the  camps,  traces  of  which  long  remained 
visible,  even  to  the  circles  made  by  the  tents.  General  Howe 
stayed  the  destruction  of  the  trees  of  the  mall  at  the  solicita- 
tion of  the  selectmen. 

Before  the  Bevolution  there  was  a  wooden  fence,  but  this, 
too,  Avas  used  for  fuel,  and  the  Common  lay  open  until  after  the 
peace,  when  it  was  rebuilt  by  a  subscription  set  on  foot  by  Dr. 
Oliver  Smith.  The  iron  fence  was  erected  in  1836,  at  a  cost 
of  $  82,500.     Its  length  is  1,932  yards,  — rather  more  than  a 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  307 

mile.  In  1733,  when  the  town  voted  to  plant  a  second  row  of 
trees  at  a  suitable  distance  from  those  already  set  out,  the 
selectmen  were  directed  to  set  up  a  row  of  posts  with  a  rail  on 
the  top  of  them,  extending  from  the  Granary  Burying-Ground 
to  Colonel  Fitche's,  leaving  openings  at  the  several  streets  ami 
lanes.  In  1739  a  similar  fence  was  ordered  from  Common 
Street  to  Beacon. 

The  Common  appears  to  have  been  first  called  "  Centry 
Field,"  taking  this  name  from  the  hill  on  whose  slope  it  lay, 
which  later  received  the  name  of  Beacon  Hill.  Century  Field 
is  another  instance  of  the  quaint  orthography,  of  which  the 
records  furnish  abundant  specimens.  It  appears  to  have  been 
indifferently  called  the  "  Training  Field  "  and  "  Centry  Field  " 
for  a  long  time. 

Turning  once  more  to  the  street,  we  pause  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Music  Hall.  There  was,  in  1768,  a  hall  of  this  name  in 
Brattle  Street,  opposite  the  meeting-house.  A  concert  was  ad- 
vertised to  be  given  November  21,  1768,  to  be  followed  by  a 
ball.     Tickets  twenty  shillings,  lawful  money. 

On  the  corner  of  Winter  Street  once  stood  an  old  ante-Revo- 
lutionary house,  with  a  fine  garden,  in  which,  it  is  said,  Governor 
Bernard  at  one  time  made  his  town  residence.  It  became  a 
famous  boarding-house  under  the  successive  auspices  of  Mrs. 
Hatch  and  Mrs.  Dexter.  Governor  Strong,  when  in  town 
during  his  second  term,  resided  with  Mrs.  Hatch. 

The  following  toast  was  published  in  1817,  as  having  been 
given  at  the  celebration  by  the  blacks  in  Boston  of  the  anni 
versary  of  the  abolition  of  the  slave-trade  :  — 

"  Governur  Brouks,  may  the  mantelpiece  of  Caleb  Strong  tall  upon 
the  hed  of  his  distinguished  predecessor." 

John  McLean,  the  eminent  merchant,  founder  of  the  McLean 
Asylum,  boarded  with  Mrs.  Dexter.  His  financial  reverses  are 
well  known.  It  is  related  of  him  thai  he  one  day  assembled 
his  creditors  at  a  dinner,  where  each  found  under  his  plate  a 
check  for  the  full  amount  due  him.  This  was  after  he  bad  been 
legally  released  from  his  obligations. 


308  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON.' 

Among  the  names  bestowed  upon  this  busy  mart  of  fashion 
was  Blott's  Lane,  from  Eobert  Blott ;  also  Bannister's  and  Wil- 
lis's Lane. 

"Winter  Street  once  boasted  a  resident  so  influential  in  the 
cause  of  liberty  as  to  receive  the  distinction  of  outlawry  from 
George  III.  The  offences  of  Samuel  Adams  and  John  Hancock 
were  too  flagitious  to  admit  of  pardon.  The  house  of  Samuel 
Adams  stood  on  the  south  side  of  Winter  Street,  on  the  corner 
of  Winter  Place.  It  was  a  two-story  wooden  house,  fronting  on 
the  street ;  at  the  back  was  an  L,  and  in  the  rear  a  small  gar- 
den. The  building  was  standing  as  late  as  1820,  and,  while  it  re- 
mained, was  not  the  least  interesting  object  to  be  seen  in  Boston. 

Samuel  Adams  was  a  Boston  boy.  Born  in  1722,  he  had 
seen  the  administrations  of  the  royal  governors  from  Burnet  to 
Gage.  He  took  his  degree  at  eighteen  at  Harvard,  and  after 
trying  unsuccessfully  a  merchant's  career,  devoted  himself  to 
literature,  until  called  to  a  political  life.  First  a  tax-gatherer, 
then  a  representative,  his  influence  begins  to  appear  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Stamp  Act  difficulties.  After  the  Massacre, 
he  overbore  the  flimsy  objections  of  Hutchinson  to  a  removal 
of  the  troops  from  the  town  by  a  manly,  bold,  and  unanswer- 
able argument. 

In  later  times,  in  all  the  movements  of  the  people  of  Boston 
preceding  actual  hostilities,  Samuel  Adams  was  the  admitted 
power  behind  the  throne.  Warren  was  brave,  Hancock  rich, 
and  Adams  sagacious.  It  was  remarked  of  Hancock  that  he 
paid  the  postage,  while  Adams  did  the  writing.  Lord  North, 
when  informed  that  Hutchinson  had  yielded  to  the  demand  of 
the  chairman  of  the  town  committee,  called  the  regulars  "  Sam 
Adams's  two  regiments,"  in  contempt.  The  Ministry  styled 
him  "  Chief  of  the  Revolution." 

Mr.  Jefferson's  opinion  of  Samuel  Adams  is  a  concise  and 
deserved  tribute  to  the  patriot.  Says  the  sage  of  Monticello, 
"  I  can  say  that  he  was  truly  a  great  man,  —  wise  in  council, 
fertile  in  resources,  immovable  in  his  purposes,  —  and  had,  I 
think,  a  greater  share  than  any  other  member  in  advising  and 
directing  our  measures  in  the  Northern  war." 


A   TOUR  ROUND   THE    COMMON.  .",    J 

When  Adams,  a  fugitive  with  Hancock,  heard  the  firing  on 
Lexington  Common,  he  exulted,  knowing  that  the  day  of  hu- 
miliation was  passing  forever  away.  The  sword  was  now  to 
decide  the  contest,  and  Adams  labored  without  intermission  in 
the  councils  of  the  incipient  nation.  He  was  an  active  member 
of  the  Congress  of  1774;  and  he  drew  up,  with  John  Adams, 
the  draft  of  the  State  Constitution.  A  member  of  the  con- 
vention to  consider  the  Federal  Constitution,  he  was  not  at 
first  in  favor  of  its  adoption,  but  acceded  to  the  plan  of 
Hancock  to  ratify  the  instrument  and  propose  amendments  to 
it  in  accord  with  the  views  of  Massachusetts  statesmen.  He 
was  lieutenant-governor  under  Hancock,  and  followed  him  to 
his  last  resting-place.  From  1794  to  1797  the  venerable  Sam- 
uel Adams  governed  the  State.  He  died  in  1803,  an  octoge- 
narian. 

It  is  related  by  Waterhonse  that  the  two  Adamses,  John  and 
Samuel,  were  one  day  walking  in  the  mall  we  have  just  |>een 
describing.  As  they  came  opposite  the  noble  mansion  of  Han- 
cock the  latter  remarked,  with  emphasis,  "  I  have  done  a  very 
good  thing  for  our  cause,  in  the  course  of  the  past  week,  by  en- 
listing the  master  of  that  house  into  it.  He  is  well  disposed, 
and  has  great  riches,  and  we  can  give  him  consequence  to  enjoy 
them." 

Samuel  Adams  was  of  ordinary  height,  muscular  form,  and 
had  light  complexion  and  light  blue  eyes.  He  wore  a  red 
cloak,  a  gray  tie-wig,  and  cocked  hat.  In  person  he  was  very 
erect.  His  father  was  a  brewer,  and  his  son  Samuel  succeeded 
to  his  business.  Admiral  Coffin  used  to  relate  that  he  had  car 
ried  malt  on  his  back  from  Adams's  brewery. 

The  old  estate  on  Purchase  Street,  where  Adams  was  horn, 
was  only  about  sixty  feet  north  of  Summer.  It  faced  the 
harbor,  commanding  a  fine  view,  and  was  conspicuous  among 
the  few  buildings  contemporary  with  it.  ( hi  the  rout  was  an  ob- 
servatory and  a  railing,  with  steps  leading  up  from  the  outside. 
It  was  improved  in  L 730,  and  the  grounds  were  still  ado 
with  trees  and  shrubbery  as  late  as  1800.*    This  was  the  estate 

*  Wells's  Life  of  Samuel  Adam-;. 


310 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


preserved  by  Samuel  Adams  after  his  father's  unsuccessful 
speculation  in  the  Land  Bank  scheme. 

Other  statesmen  and  soldiers  famous  in  the  pages  of  history 
have  walked  in  the  old  mall.  We  have  no  doubt  that  Wash- 
ington and  Winslow,  Loudon,  Amherst,  and  Hood,  Gage,  Clin- 
ton, Burgoyne,  and  Howe,  have  all  sought  its  leafy  shades. 
Talleyrand,  Moreau,  Louis  Philippe,  and  Lafayette  have  doubt- 
less paced  within  its  cool  retreats,  and  meditated  upon  the  fate 
of  empires  they  were  to  build  or  overtlirow.  Silas  Deane, 
Pulaski,  Gates,  and  Greene  have  certainly  trod  this  famous  walk. 

St.  Paul's,  overshadowed  and  overtopped  as  it  is  by  its  feudal- 
looking  neighbor,  has  yet  some  points  of  attraction.     It  was 


ST.    PAUL  S   CHURCH    AJTD   MASONIC   TEMPLE. 


designed  by  Captain  Alexander  Parris,  though,  it  is  said,  Wil- 
lard  drew  some  of  the  working  plans,  and  superintended  the 
stone-work,  cutting  some  of  the  capitals  with  his  own  hand  in 
the  adjoining  gardens.    The  front  is  unfinished,  and  the  general 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.         311 

aspect  of  the  building  did  not  satisfy  the  expectation  for  a 
model  of  ancient  art.  The  pediment  was  intended  to  be  orna- 
mented with  bas-reliefs  representing  Paul  before  Agrippa,  which 
would  have  added  to  the  beauty  of  the  front,  but  want  of  funds 
compelled  the  abandonment  of  this  design.  The  main  building 
is  of  gray  granite,  once  white,  but  now  blackened  by  the  action 
of  the  elements.  The  portico  is  of  sandstone  from  Acquis 
Creek,  the  columns  of  which  have  been  compared,  not  inaptly, 
to  a  collection  of  grindstones,  they  being  composed  of  many 
separate  sections.  Taken  as  a  whole,  the  appearance  of  St. 
Paul's  may  be  styled  "  dark,  gloomy,  and  peculiar." 

The  erection  of  St.  Paul's  marked  an  era  in  the  architecture 
of  Boston  churches.  Hitherto  the  houses  of  worship  were  of 
the  same  general  character,  King's  Chapel  and  Brattle  Street 
alone  excepted.  The  latter  were  the  only  departures  from  the 
stiff,  and,  Ave  may  add,  ugly  structures  introduced  by  the  Puri- 
tans. St.  Paul's  was  the  first  specimen  of  the  pure  Ionic  in 
the  town. 

This  was  the  fourth  Episcopal  church  erected  in  Boston  ; 
consecrated  June  30,  1820.  Dr.  Samuel  F.  Jarvis  was  the  first 
rector.  The  interior  is  chaste  and  beautiful.  The  ceiling  is  a 
cylindrical  vault,  with  panels  spanning  the  whole  width  of  the 
church.  Underneath  the  floor  are  tombs.  The  remains  of 
General  Warren  were  deposited  under  St.  Paul's  in  the  tomb 
of  his  nephew,  Dr.  John  C.  "Warren,  until  removed  in  August, 
1855,  to  the  family  vault  at  Forest  Hills. 

Solomon  Willard  came  to  Boston  in  1801,  and  first  worked 
at  his  trade  of  carpenter.  lie  was  employed  on  i  1 1 *  -  famous  Ex- 
change Coffee  House,  the  conflagration  of  which,  in  1818,  was 
seen  a  hundred  miles  from  Boston.  He  very  soon  applied  him- 
self to  the  study  of  architecture  ami  carving  in  wood.  Tin'  cap- 
itals for  the  Brighton  Meeting-house,  and  those  fur  Park  Street 
Church  steeple,  are  by  his  hand.  He  also  carved  a  busl  of 
Washington  for  the  seventy-four-gun  ship  of  that  name,  and 
executed  a  model  of  the  public  buildings  in  Washington  for 
Mr.  Bulfinch.  The  eagle  now  on  the  apex  <>t'  fche  pedimenl  of 
the  Old  Custom  House  was  carved  by  Mr.  Willard;  it   is   live 


312  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

feet  high,  and  measures  the  same  distance  from  wing  to  wing. 
His  great  work  was  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument, 'of  which  lie 
was  the  architect,  and  he  was  also  the  discoverer  of  the  Bunker 
Hill  Quarry  at  Quincy.  The  Court  House,  in  Court  Square, 
was  designed  hy  Mr.  Willard. 

The  old  Masonic  Temple,  now  used  hy  the  United  States 
courts,  is  huilt  upon  a  part  of  the  Washington  Gardens.  The 
corner-stone  was  laid  in  1830,  and  two  years  elapsed  before  it 
was  dedicated.  The  hasement  and  belt  is  of  hammered  granite. 
Two  lofty  Gothic  towers,  with  battlements  surmounted  by  pin- 
nacles, flank  the  entrance,  and  are  a  picturesque  feature  of  the 
environs  of  the  Great  Mall.  Bench  and  Bar  now  usurp  the  high 
places  of  Masonry,  to  which  a  newer  and  more  magnificent 
temple  has  been  dedicated. 

In  the  upper  story  of  the  Masonic  Temple  was  the  school  of 
A.  Bronson  Alcott,  the  philosopher,  and  father  of  the  popular 
authoress,  Louisa  May  Alcott.  In  Mr.  Alcott's  school  Sarah 
Margaret  Fuller,  afterwards  Countess  d'Ossoli,  was  an  assistant 
teacher  before  she  went  to  Providence,  E.  L,  to  teach.  Miss 
Fuller,  "  the  best  talker  since  De  Stael,"  lived  with  her  uncle, 
Henry  H.  Fuller,  on  the  north  side  of  Avon  Place  (Street), 
where  she  held  for  several  seasons  her  "  Conversations "  for 
young  ladies.  She  was  afterwards  invited  to  New  York,  by 
Horace  Greeley,  as  a  contributor  to  the  New  York  Tribune. 
The  memory  of  her  remarkable  talents  and  literary  successes 
is  still  fresh,  and  recalls  the  painful  impression  caused  by  her 
sad  fate  from  shipwreck  on  Fire  Island,  when  returning  from 
Europe  in  1850  with  her  husband  and  child. 

It  is  said  she  could  compose  Latin  verse  when  only  eight 
years  old.  Her  writings,  much  as  they  were  admired,  were  not 
equal  to  her  conversation,  in  which  her  wonderful  brilliancy 
and  force  of  expression  came  forth  with  full  power,  untd  the 
best  talkers  preferred  to  become  listeners  in  her  society.  The 
story  of  her  life  has  often  been  told,  and  constitutes  one  of  the 
brightest  as  well  as  one  of  the  saddest  pages  of  our  history. 

The  Washington  Gardens  extended  to  the  corner  of  West 
Street.     They  were  surrounded  by  a  brick  wall,  a  part  of  which 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  313 

is  seen  in  the  foreground  of  the  view  of  the  Hayniarket  in  the 
frontispiece.  A  concert  Avas  announced  here  as  early  as  1815, 
by  J.  H.  Shaffer.  In  1819  an  amphitheatre  was  erected  within 
the  grounds,  which  afterwards  took  the  name  of  the  Washing- 
ton Theatre.  The  managers  of  Federal  Street  were  at  first 
interested  in  this  establishment,  untd  it  passed  from  their  con- 
trol and  became  a  rival.  The  house  was  adapted  to  the  uses 
of  a  circus  as  well  as  for  a  theatre,  equestrian  performances 
having  been  given  in  it  a  number  of  times.  As  such  it  appears 
to  have  been  the  first  in  Boston.  Following  the  Old  Drury  and 
Haymarket,  it  had  an  English  name,  being  called  Vauxhall. 
A  battalion  of  British  troops  is  said  to  have  been  quartered  in 
the  grounds  at  the  time  of  the  occupation,  when  they  were 
known  as  Greenleaf's  Gardens. 

The  site  of  these  gardens  was  the  residence  of  Stephen  Green- 
leaf,  the  old  sheriff  of  Suffolk  under  the  stormy  administration 
of  Governor  Bernard.  He  was  the  same  whose  exploits  at  the 
Manufactory  House  have  been  chronicled.  The  sheriff  was  a 
confirmed  royalist,  but  did  not  join  in  the  hegira  of  that  party 
from  Boston.  He  died  at  the  great  age  of  ninety-one.  After 
him  it  became  the  mansion  of  James  Swan,  who  long  lived  in 
Paris,  and  was  imprisoned  in  St.  Pelagic  for  many  years. 

The  reader  will  obtain  from  the  frontispiece  an  excellent  idea 
of  what  the  district  embraced  between  West  and  Boylston 
Streets  was  in  1798.  At  the  lower  corner  of  West  Street  was 
the  Haymarket.  Beyond,  at  the  south  corner  <»f  Mason  Street, 
was  Hatch's  Tavern,  with  Frothingham's  carriage  factory  in  the. 
rear;  farther  on  is  seen  the  Old  Haymarket  Theatre,  and.  at 
the  corner  of  Boylston  Street,  the  residence  of  William  Foster, 
where  now  the  Hotel  Pelham  stands.  In  the  right  foreground 
is  the  West  Street  entrance  to  the  Common  ;  the  trees  receding 
along  the  mall  disclose  the  river  beyond,  whose  breezes  then 
fanned  and  invigorated  the  habitues  of  the  spot.  The  picture 
is  from  a  water-color  by  Eobertson,  once  the  property  of  John 
Howard  Payne,  now  in  possession  of  the  Public  Library.  The 
Whipping-Post  and  Pillory  were  situated  near  i  he  \\  esl  Street 
gate  after  their  removal  from  State  Street. 
14 


314  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Long  before  the  Eevolution,  as  early  as  1722,  a  free  school 
was  established  in  what  is  now  Mason  Street,  near  the  corner 
of  West.  It  was  then  on  the  boundary  of  the  Common,  the 
land  now  lying  between  having  been  sold  off  from  it.  The 
school  was  called  the  South  Writing,  was  the  fourth  in  the 
town,  and  has,  in  later  times,  been  known  as  the  Adams  School. 
The  Common  extended  to  Mason  Street  since  1800. 

A  gun-house  stood  at  the  corner  of  West  Street  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Revolution,  separated  by  a  yard  from  the  school- 
house.  In  this  gun-house  were  kept  two  brass  three-pounders 
belonging  to  Captain  Adino  Paddock's  train.  These  pieces  had 
been  recast  from  two  old  guns  sent  by  the  town  to  London  for 
that  purpose,  and  had  the  arms  of  the  province  engraved  upon 
them.  They  arrived  in  Boston  in  1768,  and  were  first  used  at 
the  celebration  of  the  King's  birthday,  June  4,  when  a  salute 
was  fired  in  King  Street.  Both  school  and  gun -house  are  con- 
nected with  a  celebrated  event. 

Major  Paddock  had  expressed  an  intention  of  surrendering 
these  guns  to  Governor  Gage.  The  mechanics,  who  composed 
this  company,  resolved  that  it  should  not  be  so.  The  British 
general  had  begun  to  seize  the  military  stores  of  the  province 
and  disarm  the  inhabitants.  Accordingly,  the  persons  engaged 
in  the  plot  met  in  the  school-room ;  and  when  the  attention  of 
the  sentinel  stationed  at  the  door  of  the  gun-house  was  taken 
off  by  roll-call,  they  crossed  the  yard,  entered  the  building,  and, 
removing  the  guns  from  their  carriages,  carried  them  to  the 
school-room,  where  they  were  concealed  in  a  box  in  which  fuel 
was  kept. 

The  loss  of  the  guns  was  soon  discovered,  and  search  made, 
in  which  the  school  did  not  escape.  The  master  placed  his 
lame  foot  upon  the  box,  and  it  was  not  disturbed.  Several  of 
the  boys  were  privy  to  the  affair,  but  made  no  sign.  Besides 
the  schoolmaster,  Abraham  Holbrook,  Nathaniel  Balch,  Samuel 

Gore,  Moses  Grant,  Jeremiah  Gridley, Whiston,  and  some 

others  executed  this  coup  de  main. 

Boring's  account  says  the  guns  remained  a  fortnight  in  the 
school-room.     At  the  end  of  that  time  they  were  taken  in  a 


A  TOUE  BOUND  THE  COMMON.  315 

wheelbarrow  at  night  and  carried  to  Whiston's  blacksmith's 
shop  at  the  South  End,  and  deposited  under  the  coal.  From 
here  they  were  taken  to  the  American  lines  in  a  boat.  The 
guns  were  in  actual  service  during  the  whole  war.  After  the 
peace  the  State  of  Massachusetts  applied  to  Congress  for  their 
restoration,  which  was  granted  by  a  resolve  passed  May  19, 
1788,  in  which  General  Knox,  Secretary  at  War,  was  directed 
to  place  a  suitable  inscription  upon  them.  The  two  guns  were 
called  the  "  Hancock  "  and  "  Adams,"  and  were  in  charge  of  the 
Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Company,  until  presented, 
in  1825,  by  the  State  to  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument  Associa- 
tion. They  are  now  to  be  seen  in  the  chamber  at  the  top  of 
Bunker  Hill  Monument.  The  inscription,  except  the  name,  is 
the  same  on  each  :  — 

The  Hancock  : 

Sacred  to  Liberty. 

This  is  one  of  four  cannon, 

which  constituted  the  whole  train 

of  Field  Artillery 

possessed  by  the  British  Colonies  of 

North  America 

at  the  commencement  of  the  war, 

on  the  19th  of  April,  177S. 

This  cannon 

and  its  fellow, 

belonging  to  a  number  of  citizens  of 

Boston, 

were  used  in  many  engagements 

during  the  war. 

The  other  two,  the  property  of  the 

Government  of  Massachusetts, 

were  taken  by  the  enemy. 

By  order  of  the  United  States 

in  Congress  assembled. 

May  19,  1788. 

The  two  guns  referred  to  as  captured  by  the  enemy  w&to 
concealed  in  a  stable  belonging  to  a  house  on  the  south  side  of 
Court  Street,  near  the  Court  House.  They  were  taken  oul  over 
the  Neck  in  a  cart  loaded  with  manure,  driven  by  a  negro  ser- 
vant of  George  Minot,  a  Dorchester  Parmer.  Thus  the  four  guns 
belonging  to  the  province  escaped  the  clutches  id'  Gage.     The 


31G  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

two  last  referred  to  were  some  time  in  possession  of  the  Dor- 
chester Artillery. 

Colonnade  Row,  a  uniform  range  of  twenty-four  brick  build- 
ings, was  constructed  in  1811,  and  occupied  by  the  elite  of 
Boston  society.  Each  house  had,  or  was  intended  to  have,  a 
row  of  freestone  columns  in  front  supporting  a  piazza,  —  hence 
the  name.  In  1824,  after  the  visit  of  Lafayette,  Amos  Law- 
rence and  other  occupants  of  the  row  petitioned  to  have 
Colonnade  Eow  called  Fayette  Place,  but  it  failed  to  receive 
official  sanction,  though  it  continued  to  be  so  called  by  the  resi- 
dents. At  the  same  tini6  the  name  of  South  Allen  Street  was 
changed  to  Fayette  Street.  But  few  of  the  buddings  in  the 
row  retain  their  original  appearance,  inexorable  trade  having 
demanded  and  obtained  admittance  into  this  stronghold  of 
Boston  aristocracy.  A  more  plebeian  appellation  of  the  block 
was  "  Cape  Cod  Bow,"  either  from  the  antecedents  of  some  of 
the  dwellers,  or  their  traffic  in  the  staple  of  the  Commonwealth. 

The  Lowells  have  been-  a  distinguished  family  in  Massachu- 
setts, from  Revolutionary  times  to  the  present  day.  Judge 
Lowell  was  a  delegate  to  the  Congress  of  1 782  —  83,  and  was 
appointed  by  Washington  Judge  of  the  United  States  District 
Court  at  its  organization.  Tire  judge  will  ever  be  remembered 
as  the  member  of  the  convention  which  framed  the  State  Con- 
stitution, where,  as  one  of  the  committee  to  draft  that  in- 
strument, he  inserted  in  the  "  Bill  of  Rights "  the  clause 
declaring  that  "  all  men  are  born  free  and  equal,"  with  the 
avowed  purpose  of  abolishing  slavery  in  the  Commonwealth. 

Rev.  Charles  Lowell,  of  the  West  Church,  was  a  son  of 
Judge  Lowell,  who  first  studied  law  in  Boston  before  he  took 
up  theology.  Our  distinguished  contemporary  poet,  James 
Russell  Lowell,  is  a  son  of  the  clergyman.  Another  of  the 
sons  of  the  Revolutionary  judge  was  Francis  Cabot  Lowell,  to 
whom,  more  than  any  other,  belongs  the  credit  of  establishing 
the  Waltham  cotton  factory,  the  precursor  of  the  Lowed  works. 
The  city  of  Lowell  was  named  for  him.  It  was  his  son,  John 
Lowell,  Jr.,  who  founded  by  his  will  the  Lowell  Institute. 

At  No.  19  of  the  Colonnade  resided  John  Lowed,  son  of  the 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  317 

judge  of  Revolutionary  antecedents.  Mr.  Lowell  acquired  fame 
as  a  political  writer,  wielding  a  trenchant  pen.  As  an  opponent 
of  the  "  Last  War,"  —  as  that  of  1812  was  long  called,  —  he 
obtained  considerable  celebrity  under  his  nom  de  plume  of  the 
"  Boston  Eebel,"  from  the  boldness  and  severity  with  which  he 
attacked  the  administration.  He  refused  office,  deeming  the 
post  of  honor  the  private  station,  but  is  remembered  as  a 
founder  of  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital,  the  Athenaeum, 
Savings  Bank,  and  the  Hospital  Life  Insurance  Company.  He 
built  a  brick  house  in  School  Street,  occupied  for  lawyers' 
offices,  on  the  ground  now  open  in  front  of  the  City  Hall. 

The  Massachusetts  Medical  College,  an  appendage  of  Harvard 
University,  was  at  one  time  situated  in  Mason  Street,  imme- 
diately behind  Colonnade  Row.  It  was  a  brick  edifice,  with  a 
pediment  raised  above  the  central  portion.  A  dome,  with  bal- 
ustrade, surmounted  the  whole.  The  double  tier  of  windows 
were  enclosed  in  arches  rising  the  whole  height  of  the  building. 
Taken  altogether,  its  external  aspect  might  be  called  ugly. 
Within,  the  central  building  was  occupied  by  an  anatomical 
museum,  with  a  laboratory  underneath;  the  lecture-room  was 
in  the  south  wing. 

Untold  horrors  were  associated  with  this  building  in  the 
minds  of  the  urchins  who  frequented  the  adjoining  school  house. 
Its  contigiuty  to  the  Common  Burying-Ground,  too,  seemed  to 
savor  of  a   strong   union  between  demand   and   supply.      The 

professors  were  regarded  in  the  neighbor!) 1  as  so  many 

and  the  students  as  no  better  than  vampires.  They  ate  their 
oysters  or  passed  the  jest  over  the  dissecting  table  with  a  sang- 
froid simply  horrible  to  the  uninitiated.  An  instance  is  re- 
membered of  a  student,  who  went  to  pass  tl vening  al   a 

friend's  house,  taking  a  dead  woman's  arm.  which  he  coolly 
unwrapped  from  a  newspaper  to  the  affrighl  of  his  hostess. 
The  college  was  removed  to  the  Wesl  End,  where  it  has  ac- 
quired a  fearful  notoriety  in  connection  with  a  well  remembered 
tragedy  enacted  there. 

The  Haymarkel  Theatre  Btood  nest  south  of  Colonnade  Row. 
This  was  an  immense  structure  of  w I,  erected  in  L796,  and 


318  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

opened  December  2G,  of  that  year,  by  Powell,  of  the  Federal 
Street.  Powell  had  fallen  out  with  the  proprietors 'of  the  latter 
house,  and  the  Haymarket  was  built  by  his  friends.  It  was 
designed  to  accommodate  the  middling  interest,  but  the  town 
could  not  support  two  theatres.  The  property  proved  a  poor 
speculation,  and  was  demolished  after  standing  six  years  only. 
The  huge  structure  was  said  to  have  been  the  largest  and  best- 
arranged  theatre  in  America ;  while  it  stood  it  was  a  source  of 
terror  to  the  neighborhood  from  its  liability  to  take  fire.  No 
other  theatrical  enterprise  was  started  in  Boston  until  the 
Washington  Garden  entertainments,  in  1819. 

The  Haymarket  opened  with  the  "  Belle's  Stratagem."  Mr. 
J.  A.  Dickson,  afterwards  of  the  Federal  Street,  appeared  on  the 
boards  here  for  the  first  time.  He  became,  after  his  retirement 
from  the  stage,  a  well-known  merchant  in  Cornhill,  and  accu- 
mulated a  handsome  fortune.  Dickson  was  the  first  agent  in 
this  country  of  Day  and  Martin's  blacking.  Mrs.  Darley  marie 
her  debut  at  this  theatre  as  Xarcissa  in  "  Inkle  and  Yarico." 
There  were  a  pit,  gallery,  and  three  tiers  of  boxes,  with  a  hand- 
some saloon  and  minor  conveniences  for  the  audience.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  G.  L.  Barrett  also  appeared  at  this  house,  the  latter  making 
her  debut  as  Mrs.  Beverly  in  the  "  Gamester."  The  following 
was  the  bill  on  the  opening  night  at  the  Haymarket  :  — 

BELLE'S  STRATAGEM. 

Doricourt,  S.  Powell. 

Sir  George  Touchwood,  Marriott. 

Flutter,  C.  Powell. 

Saville,  J.  H.  Dickson. 

Courtall,  Taylor. 

Villars,  A  Young  American. 

Hardy,  Simson. 

Letitia  Hardy,  Mrs.  S.  Powell. 

Lady  Frances,  Mrs.  Hughes. 

Miss  Ogle,  Miss  Harrison. 

Mrs.  Racket,  Mrs.  Simpson. 

The  Winthrop  House  and  the  adjoining  Freemason's  Hall, 
which  made  the  corner  of  Boylston  Street,  were  destroyed  by 
fire  in  April,  1864,  which  left  nothing  but  the  walls  standing. 
The  present  grand  temple  of  Masonry  succeeds  to  both  the 


A  TOUR  EOUND  THE  COMMON.  319 

former.     It  is   a  magnificent  monument  of   this  angle  of  the 
Common. 

The  Masonic  Temple  is  not  unworthily  supported  on  the 
opposite  corner  by  the  Hotel  Boylston,  —  a  site  which  will  never 
lose  interest  as  the  home  of  John.Quincy  Adams,  sixth  President 
of  the  United  States.  In  the  old  mansion-house  was  born 
Charles  Francis  Adams,  who  has  erected  the  splendid  edifice 
we  are  regarding. 

Boylston  Street  was  the  ancient  Frog  Lane  of  the  South  End. 
Its  route  was  the  same  as  now,  except  that  the  sea  washed  the 
southerly  end  at  the  foot  of  the  Common.  We  have  remarked 
that  the  fathers  of  Boston  were  not  particular  about  names. 
The  future  was  veiled  from  them,  and  any  pecidiarity  served 
their  purpose.  The  amphibious  croaker  may  have  rendered  the 
air  of  the  neighborhood  vocal  witli  his  evening  song  in  the  day 
of  Adams  or  his  neighbor  Foster.  Sloughs  and  mud-holes  were 
common  to  the  vicinity.  It  is  recorded  that  one,  both  wide  and 
deep,  lay  in  front  of  Mather  Byles's  house.  The  selectmen  were 
importuned  to  see  to  it  without  avail,  until  one  morning  a  pail 
of  them  got  their  chaise  stuck  fast  in  the  midst,  when  the  par- 
son accosted  them  with,  —  "  Well,  gentlemen,  I  am  glad  to  see 
you  stirring  in  this  matter  at  last." 

The  "  Old  Man  eloquent "  is  one  of  the  honored  names  on 
the  roll  of  the  Boston  Bar.  The  Athenaeum  was  enriched  by 
his  private  library  at  a  merely  nominal  sum.  He  studied  law 
with  Theophilus  Parsons,  and  wrote  powerful  political  articles 
under  the  signature  of  Publicola,  in  lT'.U,  advocating  neutrality 
with  France.  Minister  to  Holland,  England,  and  Prussia,  be 
was  intimate  with  Burke,  Fox,  Sheridan,  Pitt,  and  their  con- 
temporaries of  the  period  of  the  French  Revolution.  A  mem- 
ber of  the  United  States  Senate  from  1803  to  1808,  his  views 
on  the  measures  of  Mr.  Jefferson  were  in  conflicl  with  tho 
Massachusetts,  and  he  resigned.  He  was  minister  to  Russia  in 
1809,  and  a  commissioner  at  Ghent  in  1815.  Again  minister 
to  England  in  1817,  ho  became  subsequently  Mr.  Monroe's 
Secretary  of  State,  and  his  successor  in  ISlT).  In  is:}]  he  waa 
returned  to  Congress,  where  he  continued   until   his  sudden 


320  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

decease  in  the  Capitol  in  1848.  "This  is  the  last  of  earth;  I 
am  content,"  were  the  last  words  he  spoke. 

Mr.  Adams  was  minister  to  Russia  during  the  invasion  of 
Bonaparte.  When  cpiestioned  as  to  the  burning  of  Moscow, 
he  stated  that  both  the  Emperor  and  Bostopchin,  the  governor, 
denied  having  ordered  it.  Had  the  government  assumed  the 
responsibility,  they  would  have  been  obliged  to  indemnify  the 
sufferers. 

In  Miss  Quincy's  Memoir  are  some  interesting  personal  recol- 
lections of  Mr.  Adams  while  at  the  court  of  ISt.  Eetersburg. 
Said  he  :  — 

"  I  never  saw  Alexander  on  the  throne.  He  was  a  man  who  cared 
little  about  thrones,  and  was  one  of  the  most  complete  republicans, 
in  character  and  maimers,  I  have  ever  known.  He  used  to  walk  the 
streets  of  St.  Petersburg  every  day,  and  stop  and  talk  to  every  one 
he  met.  He  was  extremely  popular,  and  I  do  not  believe  he  was 
carried  off  by  treachery.  Alexander,  during  the  whole  of  the  war 
with  Bonaparte,  exposed  himself  as  much  as  any  of  his  officers.  At 
the  close  of  that  war  he  was  undoubtedly  one  of  the  first  generals 
in  Europe.  Moreau  was  killed  at  his  side  by  a  cannon-ball  horn  the 
walls  of  Dresden." 

Speaking  of  Moreau's  death,  Mr.  Adams  observed  :  — 

"  He  was  fighting  against  his  country,  which  no  man  can  ever  be 
justified  in  doing.  A  man,  if  he  disapproves  a  government  or  a  war, 
may  remain  quiet  and  neutral  ;  but  nothing  should  ever  induce  him 
to  take  up  arms  against  his  country.  I  saw  Moreau's  funeral  at  St. 
Petersburg,  which  was  attended  with  great  pomp." 

The  victor  of  Hohenlinden  was  excluded  by  decree  from  the 
ranks  of  the  French  army,  July  6,  1804,  and  under  the  surveil- 
lance of  a  colonel  of  gendarmes  went  to  Cadiz,  where  he  em- 
barked for  the  United  States.  Moreau  was  in  America  eight 
years,  during  which  he  travelled  extensively,  visiting  Boston 
among  other  places.  The  venerable  "William  Minot,  of  this 
city,  stated,  at  a  recent  interview,  that  he  remembers  seeing  the 
general  in  a  passing  carriage  while  he  was  in  Boston.  He  went 
to  Niagara  Fads,  and  descended  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi.  A 
small  affluent  of  the  Missouri,  is  named  for  him. 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  321 

He  lived  for  some  time  at  Morrisville,  in  Pennsylvania,  in  a 
house  purchased  by  him  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware,  —  the 
most  conspicuous  in  the  place.  The  general  was  very  affable 
and  hospitable.  He  also  resided  in  New  York,  where  he  was 
much  consulted  by  American  politicians,  though  be  sedulously 
abstained  from  party  intrigue  himself.  After  a  residence  of 
about  eight  years  in  the  United  States  he  returned  to  Europe, 
to  engage  in  the  strife  then  raging  tbere.  The  American  vessel 
which  carried  Moreau  —  this  was  in  1813  —  was  permitted  to 
pass  the  blockade  by  Admiral  Cockburn,  at  tbe  request  of  the 
Russian  minister. 

His  death-bed  was  attended  by  the  King  of  Prussia,  the 
Emperor  of  Austria,  and  Emperor  Alexander,  who  manifested 
the  deepest  grief  at  his  loss.  Metternich,  Schwartzenburg,  and 
the  allied  generals  visited  him,  and  Alexander,  who  had  a  great 
friendship  for  the  dying  general,  held  him  a  long  time  in  his 
arms.  The  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter  to  Madame  M  i  ireau, 
written  by  him,  with  a  steady  hand,  while  sinking  under  the 
amputation  of  his  limbs  :  — 

"My  dear  friend,  at  the  battle  of  Dresden,  three  days  ago,  T  had 
both  legs  carried  away  by  a  cannot  shot.  That  scoundrel,  Bonaparte, 
is  always  lucky." 

Charles  Francis  Adams  passed  his  boyhood  witli  his  father 
at  St.  Petersburg,  and  while  the  elder  Adams  was  minister  at 
the  court  of  St.  James,  the  son  went  to  an  English  school,  lie 
studied  law  in  Webster's  office,  and  was  admitted  to  the  bar, 
but  never  practised.  Mr.  Adams,  after  having  edited  a  Boston 
newspaper,  and  served  in  the  legislature,  was  the  candidate  "f 
the  Free  Soil  party  for  the  Vice-presidency  in  L848.  Bui  Mr. 
Adams  is  best  known  by  his  diplomatic  services  at  the  .same 
court  where  his  father  served  so  long.  His  conducl  of  delicate 
negotiations  during  the  great  civil  war  was  such  as  to  place  him 
at  the  head  of  American  diplomats.  His  services  were  recently 
required  by  our  government  in  the  negotiations  at  Geneva, 
arising  from  the  Alabama  and  other  claims.  Mr.  Adams  mar- 
ried a  daughter  of  Peter  C.  Brooks,  a  wealthy  citizen  of  Boston. 

In  this  corner  of  the  Common,  and  adjoining  the  Burying- 
14*  0 


322  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON". 

Ground  on  the  east,  were  situated  the  hay-scales,  after  their 
removal  from  the  corner  of  West  Street,  and  also,  a  gun-house ; 
the  latter  was  transferred,  in  182G,  to  a  location  hear  the  present 
Providence  depot.  It  contained  a  laboratory,  well  furnished 
with  warlike  material.  There  was  also  a  laboratory  on  Pleasant 
Street,  between  the  corner  of  Boylston  and  Pfaff's  Hotel,  during 
the  Revolution,  on  what  is  now  called  Park  Square,  and  another, 
subsequently  used  by  Frothingham,  Wheeler,  and  Jacobs  as  a 
carriage  factory,  and  seen  in  the  frontispiece. 

The  first  manufacture  of  duck  was  begun  by  an  incorporated 

company  in  Boston,  about  1790.     They  erected  buildings  on  a 

large   lot  in  Boylston  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Tremont.     In 

____if^SFE&r_  1792  they  were  in  the  full  tide 

"/_._-         -  ij-'-jC^^fP      of  success,  employing  four  liun- 

r^Vi'^^V  I        dred    operatives,    and    turning 

=^ — tlilitllnfl riNil    "l "V  I        ou^  nfty  pieces  a  week  of  ex- 

"iC  n^r^^Zjl       cellent  canvas.    Here  were  man- 

JiJfci".  "■ ■*—  ufactured     the     Constitution's 

iPfc.      HI  •^^/■\  ^izrr?       H- 

:  1%  I  iwwFft-'-^f^''    sa"s'  so  that  sue  M'as  an  Amer- 

<dL_:  .  I  r|i__iir^^=    ican  ship  throughout,  except  in 

her  armament.     The  manufac- 
0LD  L00M-  ture  of  cotton  began  in  Xew 

England  as  early  as  1643,  and  calico  printing  was  undertaken 
in  Boston  before  1794. 

During  the  war  of  1812  a  number  of  field-pieces  belonging  to 
the  government  were  collected  in  this  corner  of  the  Common, 
and  the  city  military  took  turns  mounting  guard  over  the  park. 
The  New  England  Guards,  which  were  organized  in  1812,  per- 
formed their  share  of  this  duty,  and  several  of  the  members, 
among  whom  was  Abbott  Lawrence,  got  their  one  hundred  and 
sixty  acres  of  land  from  the  general  government  in  requital  for 
a  certain  term  of  service  here,  at  the  Charlestown  Navy  Yard, 
and  at  Noddle's  Island.  There  were  sixty-seven  names  on  the 
muster-roll  in  1814,  and  in  1859,  after  the  lapse  of  nearly  half 
a  century,  forty-three  of  the  sixty-seven  were  still  living,  of 
whom  a  mere  handful  of  acred  men  now  survive. 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.         323 


CHAPTEE  XL 

A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON  CONTINUED. 

Common  Burying-Ground. — Joshua  Bates.  —  Public  Garden.  —  Ropewalks. 

—  Topography  of  the  Common.  —  British  Troops  on.  —  Description  of  their 
Camps. — The  Light  Horse. — Powder  House. — Old  Elm.  —  Witchcraft 
and  Quaker  Executions.  —  The  Duel  in  1728.  —  Mill-Dam.  —  .Mexican 
Volunteers.  —  Beacon  Street.  —  Prescott.  —  Copley.  —  John  Phillips.  — 
Wendell  Phillips.  — Robert  C.  Winthrop.  — Hancock  Mansion.  — Governor 
Hancock. — General  Clinton. — State  House. — Public  Statues,  etc. 
The  Beacon.  —  The  Monument.  —  Lafayette's  Residence.  —  George  Ticknor. 

—  Malbone.  —  Samuel  Dexter.  —  Incidents  of  Lafayette's  Visit  in  1824.  — 
Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.  —  Historical  Resume.  —  Repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act. 

THE  Common  Burying-Ground  lias  but  little  antiquity  com- 
pared with  the  Chapel,  Copp's  Hill,  or  ( i-ranary  *  !emeteries« 
It  was  opened  after  these  in  1756,  and  has,  according  to  its 
changing  relations  with  others,  been  called  at  various  times  the 
South  and  Central  Ground. 

Under  Mayor  Armstrong,  the  Boylston  Street  Mall  was  car- 
ried across  the  foot  of  the  Common,  cutting  off  some  of  the 
tombs  on  that  side  of  the  graveyard.  The  owners  of  the 
vaults  resisted  the  invasion  of  the  sacred  dust,  but  the  im- 
provement was  accomplished  by  which  Beacon  and  Tremont 
Street  Malls  were  connected. 

Unsupported  tradition  has  given  to  the  Common  Ground 
the  credit  of  being  first  used  for  negro  burials,  hut  we  lind  ii" 
better  evidence  of  this  than  that  some  very  thick  skulls  were 
dug  up  at  a  considerable  depth  from  the  surface.  It  is  known, 
however,  that  this  was  t  lie  sepulchre  of  such  of  the  common  sol- 
diers as  died  from  disease  during  the  British  occupation,  and  of 
those  who  died  from  their  wounds  received  at  Bunker  Mill. 
They  were  buried  in  a  common  trench,  according  to  military 
custom,  and  many  of  the  remains  were  exhumed  when  the  ex- 
cavations were  proceeding  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  j  ird. 


324  LANDMARKS  OF  BOSTON. 

The  officers  who  died  of  their  hurts  at  Bunker  Hill  were  in- 
terred in  the  churches  and  cemeteries,  hastily,  but  with  greater 
decency.  Many  of  these  have  been  forwarded  to  their  far- 
away homes. 

We  cannot  pass  the  Public  Library  without  an  allusion  to 
its  great  benefactor,  Joshua  Bates.  This  eminent  Bostonian, 
who  became  a  member  of  the  great  house  of  the  Barings  in 
London,  was  a  poor  boy,  almost  as  humble  as  the  least  among 
those  who  daily  benefit  by  his  generosity.  He  attracted  the 
attention  of  his  patron,  William  Gray,  while  driving  a  load  of 
stones  on  his  father's  team.  His  quick,  ready  replies  interested 
the  merchant,  who  gave  him  a  place  in  his  counting-house, 
whence  graduated  a  financier  second  to  none  in  the  Old  or 
New  World. 

In  the  Public  Library  is  a  Revolutionary  relic  of  interest, 
which  acquired  an  even  greater  importance  in  connection  with 
the  Sanitary  Commission  in  the  war  of  Rebellion.  It  is  the 
original  capitulation  of  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga,  with  the  signa- 
tures of  the  king's  commander,  Eiedesel,  and  the  lesser  officers, 
English  and  Hessian,  in  order  of  rank. 

"  In  vain  they  fought,  in  vain  they  fled  ; 
Their  chief,  humane  and  tender, 
To  save  the  rest,  soon  thought  it  best 
His  forces  to  surrender." 

"Where  now  the  Public  Garden  is  teeming  with  beauty, 
nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  ground  was  occupied  by  rope- 
walks,  five  in  number.  As  you  pass  along  Charles  Street  going 
in  the  direction  of  Beacon,  these  ropewalks  stretched  about 
three  fourths  of  the  distance,  there  meeting  the  water  which 
washed  Charles  Street.  On  the  other  hand,  they  continued 
nearly  to  Eliot  Street.  Charles  Street  was  divided  from  the 
Common  about  1804. 

These  ropewalks  were  the  successors  of  those  in  Pearl  and 
Atkinson  Streets,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1794.  The  town  granted 
the  tract  in  order  to  prevent  the  erection  of  new  buildings  in 
a  district  they  endangered,  as  well  as  to  render  substantial  aid 
to  the  unfortunate  rope-makers ;  they  were  again  consumed  in 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  325 

their  new  location  in  1806.  The  land  whereon  these  rope- 
walks  were  situated  was  marsh,  or  flats,  which  indeed  was 
the  prior  condition  of  nearly  all  that  low  ground  now  known 
as  the  parade  of  the  Common.  At  high  tides  most  of  this 
tract  was  probably  overflowed.  On  the  verge  of  it  was  a  little 
elevation  known  as  Fox  Hill,  long  ago  levelled  to  contribute  to 
the  filling  of  the  marsh.  As  long  ago  as  1750  the  town  voted 
to  lease  these  marsh-lands ;  but  if  they  were  used,  the  purpose 
has  not  transjnred. 

To  continue  the  topography  of  this  region  of  the  Common, 
from  the  bottom  of  Beacon  Street  to  Cambridge  Bridge  was  a 
high  bluff,  similar  to  the  headlands  of  the  harbor  islands ;  the 
base  washed  by  the  river.  Excellent  springs,  covered  at  high 
water,  trickled  along  the  beach.  This  eminence,  known  as  West 
Hill,  was  occupied  by  the  British  as  a  mortar-battery ;  it  has 
been  reduced  to  a  convenient  grade,  and  employed  in  making 
Charles  Street.  It  seems  clear  that  the  shore  or  beach  once 
left  this  headland  with  an  inward  sweep,  southerly  to  the 
higher  ground  at  the  foot  of  Boylston  Street. 

After  the  era  of  improvement  was  begun  by  the  Mount 
Vernon  proprietors,  the  hill  was  reduced  by  them.  In  this 
labor  they  employed  the  first  railway  used  in  New  England,  by 
an  inclined  plane,  over  which  box  cars  conveyed  their  loads  to 
the  water  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  About  this  time  a  sea  wall 
was  built  along  Charles  Street  from  Beacon  to  Boylston. 

To  return  to  the  ropewalks.  The  town,  in  its  generosity, 
invested  the  proprietors  with  a  title  which  might  have  forever 
prevented  the  existence  of  the  Public  Garden,  now  properly  a 
part  and  parcel  of  the  Common.  The  rights  of  the  proprie- 
tors were  finally  purchased  by  the  city.  The  question  whether 
the  city  should  sell  these  lands  lying  west  of  Charles  S 
was,  in  1824,  negatived  by  the  citizens,  who  thus  decided  to 
preserve  the  beautiful  view  of  the  river  and  its  shores  beyond, 
now  obstructed  by  tin'  newly  erected  city  of  the  Back  May.  In 
this  manner  has  been  secured  the  Public  Garden, — 

"Where  opening  roses  breathing  sweets  diffuse, 

And  soft  carnations  shower  their  balmy  dewa  ; 


326  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

Where  lilies  smile  in  virgin  robes  of  white, 
The  thin  undress  of  superficial  light, 
And  varied  tulips  show  so  dazzling  gay,- 
Blushing  in  bright  diversities  of  day, 
Each  painted  floweret  hi  the  lake  below 
Surveys  its  beauties,  whence  its  beauties  grow." 

From  the  bottom  of  the  Common  the  troops  were  embarked 
in  silence  for  Lexington,  at  about  ten  o'clock  on  the  night  pre- 
ceding the  memorable  19th  of  AprU.  On  the  Common  were 
arrayed  the  forces  engaged  at  Bunker  Hdl  before  they  marched 
to  the  points  of  embarkation.  Many  a  tall  fellow  heard  the 
drums  beat  the  rappel  for  the  last  time  as  he  shouldered  his 
firelock,  and  fell  in  the  ranks  on  that  eventful  morning. 

Of  the  first  troops  which  the  Ministry  despatched  to  Boston, 
the  29th  went  into  camp  on  the  Common  for  a  short  time,  un- 
til they  were  quartered  in  various  parts  of  the  town.  The  1 4th 
and  the  Train  marched  with  the  29th  to  the  Common  from 
Long  Wharf,  but  were  assigned  to  other  localities.  On  the  31st 
of  October,  1768,  took  place  the  first  military  execution  ever 
witnessed  in  Boston.  The  doomed  man  was  Richard  Ames,  a 
private  of  the  14th ;  his  crime,  desertion.  He  was  shot  on  the 
Common,  both  regiments  being  present  under  arms.  Inter- 
cession was  made  with  General  Gage  to  spare  the  man's  life 
without  avail. 

These  were  not  the  first  troops  to  use  the  town  training-field 
by  many,  but  their  coming  marked  an  epoch  in  history.  The 
provincial  forces  of  Shirley  and  Pepperell  enlivened  the  green 
sward  in  1745;  and  in  1758,  on  the  13th  January,  General 
Amherst  and  his  army,  4,500  strong,  disembarked  from  their 
ships,  and  pitched  their  tents  on  the  Common.  This  was  the 
force  destined  to  operate  against  Canada.  At  this  time,  and 
long  afterwards,  the  British  officers  wore  bayonets.  A  portrait 
of  General  Wolfe  is  extant  with  a  firelock  slung  at  his  back  and 
the  bayonet  by  his  side.  Burgoyne's  officers  also  wore  them 
when  they  came  to  Boston  in  1777. 

The  Highland  Regiment,  commanded  by  Colonel  Fraser,  ex- 
cited the  admiration  of  the  town,  which  had  seen  nothing  like 
it  before.     Their  colonel  was  the  same  who  displayed  such  con- 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  327 

spicuous  bravery  at  the  battle  of  Stillwater  in  1777,  under 
Burgoyne's  command.  In  the  crisis  of  the  second  day's  battle 
General  Morgan  called  some  of  his  trusty  riflemen,  and,  pointing 
out  the  gallant  Briton,  said  to  them  :  "  That  gallant  officer  is 
General  Eraser.  I  admire  and  honor  him,  but  it  is  necessary 
he  should  die  ;  victory  for  the  enemy  depends  upon  him.  Take 
your  stations  in  that  clump  of  bushes,  and  do  your  duty."  In 
a  few  minutes  Fraser  fell,  mortally  wounded.  He  requested  to 
be  buried  in  a  redoubt  he  had  erected,  which  was  accordin-ly 
done,  under  the  fire  of  the  American  guns.  The  object  of  the 
burial-party  being  discovered,  the  firing  ceased,  except  the  oc- 
casional booming  of  a  minute-gun  in  honor  of  the  valor  of  the 
deceased  soldier.  Fraser's  regiment  was  with  Wolfe  at  the 
memorable  ascent  of  the  Heights  of  Abraham  in  1759,  and, 
under  Murray,  was  engaged  at  the  battle  of  Quel  ice  in  1  7G0. 

On  the  2d  July,  1774,  the  train  of  artillery  from  the  Castle 
landed,  and  marched  to  the  Common.  On  the  4th  of  October 
there  were  two  regiments  stationed  here,  and  it  continued  there- 
after a  permanent  camp  until  the  evacuation.  Two  companies 
were  stationed  in  the  mortar  redoubt,  and  also  held  a  small 
three-gun  battery  higher  up  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  AYlieii 
the  British  departed,  the  thirteen-inch  mortar  from  the  battery 
was  found  lying  on  the  beach,  where  it  had  been  overturned, 
uninjured.  Another  of  the  same  calibre,  found  sunk  at  the  end 
of  Long  Wharf,  was  placed  by  the  Americans  in  the  South 
Battery.  One  of  these  Revolutionary  relics  was  taken  to 
Charlestown  Navy  Yard ;  the  other  was  mounted  on  the  bat- 
tery at  New  York,  the  same  year  it  was  captured.  Two  twelve- 
pounders  from  the  battery  on  Beacon  Hill  were  also  secured  by 
the  Americans.  There  were  a  few  shot  thrown  into  the  British 
camp  during  the  siege  by  an  American  floating  battery,  bul  no 
harm  was  done. 

The  positions  of  the  British  defences  and  encampments  on 
the  Common  during  the  winter  of  1775  —  76  were  as  follows  : 
A  small  earthwork  was  thrown  up  at  the  northwest  corner,  a 
little  higher  up  than  the  present  entrance  on  Charles  street  ; 
this  was  designed  for  infantry,  and  held  by  a  single  company, 


328  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

The  little  elevation  mentioned  by  the  name  of  Fox  Hill  was 
nearly  or  quite  surrounded  by  water  at  times,  and  was  hence 
called  the  island  ;  on  this  was  a  small  redoubt.  At  the  south- 
west corner,  at  a  point  at  high-water  mark,  —  now  intersected 
by  Boylston  Street  extension,  —  was  another  breastwork  for 
infantry.  South  of  this  was  a  strong  redoubt,  which  would  be 
bisected  by  Hollis  Street,  were  it  extended  to  the  shore  as  it 
then  existed  ;  one  front  faced  Pleasant  Street,  while  the  other 
was  along  the  then  beach.  This  formed  the  first  line,  the 
Pleasant  Street  redoubt  and  the  battery  at  the  foot  of  Beacon 
Street  being  on  the  flanks. 

On  the  westerly  slope  of  the  liill  overlooking  the  parade,  and 
on  which  the  flagstaff  is  now  situated,  was  a  square  redoubt, 
behind  which  lay  encamped  a  battalion  of  infantry  ;  to  the  east, 
and  on  a  line  with  the  easternmost  point  of  the  hill,  were  two 
half-moons  for  small  arms,  with  a  second  battalion  in  its  rear. 
About  opposite  Carver  Street,  resting  on  the  southwest  corner 
of  the  burial-ground,  was  a  bastioned  work,  directly  across 
Boylston  Street.  This  was  the  second  line.  On  the  hill  for- 
merly known  as  Flagstaff  Hill,  but  now  dedicated  to  the  sol- 
diers' monument,  the  artillery  was  parked,  protected  by  intrench- 
ments.  Immediately  behind  this  hill,  stretching  from  the 
burial-ground  across  to  Beacon  Street  Mall,  were  the  camps  of 
three  battalions  of  infantry.  Such  were  the  dispositions  to 
prevent  a  landing  by  the  American  forces  under  Washington. 
None  of  the  works  were  formidable  except  the  most  southern, 
which  was  connected  with  the  lines  on  the  Neck.  The  Common 
was  an  intrenched  camp,  with  a  regular  garrison  of  1,750  men. 

The  remains  of  the  British  works  were  visible  until  the  be- 
ginning of  the  century.  Persons  are  still  living  who  have  seen 
the  holes  made  by  the  soldiers  for  their  kitchens,  and  the  ditches 
on  the  hill  where  the  monument  is  to  stand. 

The  strength  of  the  British  position  may  be  inferred  from 
the  fact  that  Du  Coudray,  an  experienced  French  officer  of 
artillery,  engaged  by  our  commissioners  to  command  that  arm 
in  our  service,  laughed  long  and  heartily  on  viewing  from  Bea- 
con Hill  the  works  which  the  British  had  erected,  and  which 
they  had  so  precipitately  abandoned. 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  329 

Behind  the  three-gun  battery  situated  on  Beacon  Hill  were  a 
number  of  ropewalks,  bounding  north  on  Myrtle  Street,  and 
occupied  in  Revolutionary  times  by  Henderson  Inches.  This 
was  the  camp  of  the  British  Light  Horse,  who  used  the  rope- 
walks  as  their  stables,  and  the  Old  South  as  a  riding-school. 
Belknap  Street  is  now  continued  directly  through  these  rope- 
walks.  The  spur  of  Beacon  Hill  known  as  Mt.  Vernon,  and  for 
which  that  street  takes  its  name,  was  called  Mt.  Hoardam,  and 
Mt.  Whoredom,  a  difference  merely  of  orthography.  We  shall 
see  that  the  military  positions  in  and  around  the  Common  were 
presided  over  by  some  distinguished  personages. 

In  May,  1706,  an  act  was  passed  erecting  a  Powder  House  in 
the  town,  and  one  was  built  on  the  hill  near  the  Frog  Bond. 
There  was  another  pond  on  the  Common  in  early  times  railed 
the  Horse  Pond,  a  stagnant  pool  of  water  long  since  Idled  up. 
It  was  situated  a  little  to  the  southeast  of  old  Flagstaff  Hill, 
and  was  connected  by  a  ditch  with  the  river  ;  across  the  ditch 
a  little  foot-bridge  was  thrown.  A  third  pond,  to  the  westward, 
was  called  Sheehan's,  from  a  man  of  that  name  hanged  there. 
The  Powder  House  referred  to  must  not  be  confounded  with 
the  one  at  West  Boston,  —  a  much  larger  and  better-built 
magazine. 

The  superficial  features  of  the  Common,  except  in  the  in- 
stances pointed  out,  remain  unchanged.  The  Mighty  Kim  yel 
rears  its  hoary  front,  and  puts  forth  its  verdure  as  of  old.  It 
is  the  only  living  though  dumb  witness  of  the  pageants  of 
Shirley,  Amherst,  Gage,  and  Howe.  The  life-current  flows 
feebly  through  the  limbs  of  this  tree  of  trees,  bul  still  it  stands, 
acknowledged  monarch  of  its  fellows.  The  green  mists  which 
in  spring-time  clothe  the  trees  in  the  malls  cloud  bul  lightly 
the  aged  crest  of  the  Old  Elm.  Kingdoms,  empires,  dynasties, 
have  disappeared,  yet  the  tree  stands  with  its  gnarled  roots 
grasping  its  native  earth,  waiting  in  silent  majesty  the  day 
when  it  shall  be  laid  to  its  rest,  lull  of  honors  and  of  years. 

The  branches  of  the  old  Kim,  if  we  may  believe  tradition, 
have  been  adorned  with  strange  fruit,  such  as  Tristan  L'Hermite 
delighted  to  suspend  from  his  master's  forests.     We  knoM  thai 


330 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


William  Kobinson  and  Marmaduke  Stevenson,  convicted  Quak- 
ers, were  hung  upon  the  Common.  Mary  Dyar  was  reprieved 
after  her  foot  was  on  the  fatal  ladder,  through  the  intercession  of 
her  son,  and  escaped  to  meet  a  similar  fate  the  next  year.  The 
lifeless  forms  of  Margaret  Jones,  of  Anne  Hibbins,  and  perhaps 


other  victims  of  judicial  murder,  may  have  depended  from  these 
same  linibs  during  the  reign  of  the  witchcraft  horrors.  The 
remains  of  those  who  suffered  at  this  time  were  treated  with 
studied  cruelty.  Their  bodies  were  refused  their  friends,  and 
even  the  privilege  of  protecting  their  place  of  sepulture  was 
denied. 

The  best  judges  have  considered  the  age  of  this  tree  to  be 
considerably  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  years.  It  ap- 
pears to  have  exceeded  the  usual  term  of  maturity  allotted  to 
its  species ;  but  artificial  means,  with  great  care  for  its  preserva- 
tion, have  no  doubt  eked  out  its  existence.     A  terse  biography 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  331 

of  the  tree  is  found  on  the  entrance  to  the  enclosure,  placed 
there  by  Mayor  Smith,  under  whose  direction  the   fence  was 

erected  : — 

THE  OLD  ELM. 

This  tree  has  been  standing  here  for  an  unknown  period.     It  is 

believed  to  have  existed  before  the  settlement  of  Boston 

being  full  grown  in  1722.     Exhibited  marks  of 

old  age  in  1792,  and  was  nearly  destroyed 

by  a  storm  in  1832.      Protected 

by    an   Iron  Enclosure 

in  1854. 
J.  V.  C.  Smith,  Mayor. 

It  should  be  mentioned,  however,  that  a  tradition  has  been 
current  which  assigns  to  Captain  Daniel  Henchman  —  the  same 
who  commanded  a  company  of  foot  from  Boston,  in  King 
Philip's  war,  and  was  also  captain  of  the  Ancient  and  Honora- 
ble Artillery  Company  in  167G  —  the  honor  of  planting  the 
Great  Elm,  six  years  earlier.  This,  if  true,  would  make  the 
elm  more  than  two  hundred  years  old.  But  the  tree  could 
hardly  have  attained,  in  fifty-two  years,  to  the  size  represented 
on  the  earliest  plan  of  the  town.  It  is  also  worthy  of  remark 
that  the  age  of  Liberty  Tree,  planted  only  sixteen  years  after 
the  settlement,  was  definitely  known  and  established  by  the 
Sons  of  Liberty,  while  we  nowhere  meet  with  any  contempo- 
rary account  of  the  planting  of  the  Great  Elm. 

The  shooting  of  Matoonas,  one  of  King  Philip's  sagamores, 
is  chronicled  in  165G.  He  was  tied  to  a  tree,  —  perhaps  this 
very  elm,  —  and  met  death  with  the  stoical  indifference  of  his 
race. 

There  was,  formerly,  on  the  northerly  side  of  the  I  rreal  Elm, 
a  cavity  large  enough  to  serve  as  a  hiding-place  for  boys.  This 
being  tilled  with  clay  and  covered  with  canvas,  in  process  of 
time  was  closed  up  by  the  natural  action  of  the  tree,  Known 
a  hundred  years  ago  as  The  Great  Tree,  and  appearing  full- 
grown  a  century  and  a  half  gone  by,  this  venerable  tree  may, 
without  dispute,  claim  to  be  the  oldest  inhabitant  of  Boston. 

Among  the  events  with  which  the  history  of  the  Common  is 
connected  is  the  duel  fought  near  the  Powder  House,  July  •">. 


332  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

17:iS,  at  between  seven  and  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening.  Both 
the  combatants  were  young  men  of  the  first  respectability ; 
their  names,  Benjamin  Woodbridge  and  Henry  Phillips.  They 
fought  with  swords,  the  former  being  thrust  through  the  body, 
while  his  adversary  received  some  slight  wounds.  Phillips  was 
hurried  away  on  board  the  Sheerness  man-of-war,  then  lying  in 
the  harbor,  by  his  brother  Gillani  Phillips,  Peter  Paneuil,  and 
some  others.  The  body  of  the  unfortunate  Woodbridge  was 
found  the  next  morning  lying  near  the  scene  of  the  affray.  Mr. 
Sargent,  better  known  as  the  "  Sexton  of  the  Old  School,"  has 
given  some  interesting  details  of  this  affair.  The  Faneuils  and 
Phillipses  were  connected  by  marriage,  which  accounts  for  the 
agency  of  Peter  Faneud  in  Henry  Phdlips's  escape.  Young 
Woodbridge  lies  in  the  Granary  Burying-Ground. 

This  duel  gave  rise  to  a  new  law,  which  decreed  that  the 
offender,  upon  conviction,  should  "  be  carried  publicly  in  a  cart 
to  the  gallows,  Avith  a  rope  about  his  neck,  and  set  on  the  gal- 
lows an  hour,  then  to  be  imprisoned  twelve  months  without 
bad."  Any  j>erson  killed  in  a  duel  was  denied  "  Christian 
Burial,"  and  interred  "  near  the  usual  place  of  public  execution 
with  a  stake  drove  through  the  body."  Death  was  the  penalty 
meted  out  to  the  survivor  with  the  same  vindictive  pursuit  of 
the  senseless  remains. 

"When  the  British  troops  were  first  stationed  in  the  town, 
they  had  a  hospital  at  the  bottom  of  the  Common  ;  it  took  fire 
and  was  nearly  consumed  in  May,  1769.  There  was  also,  at  a 
later  period,  a  guard-house  in  the  same  locality. 

Public  executions  have  occurred  at  the  bottom  of  the  Com- 
mon, at  or  near  the  foot  of  Beacon  Street,  the  criminals  being 
hastily  buried  in  the  loose  gravel  of  the  beach.  So  carelessly 
was  this  performed  that  an  eyewitness  relates  that  he  has  seen 
the  corpse  of  one  victim  disinterred  by  the  sea,  with  the  mark 
of  the  hangman's  noose  still  visible. 

The  Mill-Dam,  or  "Western  Avenue,  is  fast  losing  its  distinc- 
tive features  of  yore,  and  shaping  itself  into  a  boulevard,  bor- 
dered in  its  whole  extent  by  residences.  It  was  the  greatest 
undertaking  in  its  day  Boston  had  witnessed ;  we  may  even 


TOUll  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  333 

doubt  whether  the  far-seeing  Mr.  Cotting  perceived  it  to  be  the 
first  step  towards  converting  the  Back  Bay  into  terra  firinn. 

The  work  was  begun  in  1818  by  the  Boston  and  Roxbury 
Mill  Corporation,  but  Mr.  Cutting  did  not  live  to  see  its  com- 
pletion, Colonel  Loammi  Baldwin  succeeding  him  as  engineer. 
In  our  Introduction  we  have  given  a  very  brief  account  of  this 
thoroughfare.  Laborers  were  brought  from  Ireland  specially  to 
be  employed  on  it,  and  it  was  opened  with  due  ceremony.  A 
cavalcade  of  citizens  crossed  from  the  Brookline  shore,  and  were 
received  by  the  inhabitants  on  the  Boston  side. 

Many  recollect  the  entrance  into  the  city  of  the  Massachu- 
setts Volunteers  after  the  Mexican  war.  They  were  almost 
literally  in  rags,  and  it  was  not  until  the  charitable  hands  of 
Boston  ladies  had  supplied  needful  clothing  that  the  regiment 
was  able  to  march  into  town.  Their  appearance  indicated  little 
of  the  "pomp  and  circumstance,"  but  much  of  the  hard  usage 
and  bad  rations,  of  glorious  war. 

We  may  now  pursue  our  way  up  the  ascent  of  Beacon  Strei  I 
and  its  neighboring  mall.  The  expense  of  tins  mall  was  de- 
frayed from  a  fund  raised  by  subscription  to  erect  fortifications 
during  the  war  of  1812,  then  remaining  in  the  hands  of  the 
town  officers. 

"  Here  aged  trees  cathedral  walks  compose, 
And  mount  the  hill  in  venerable  rows." 

The  name  of  Beacon  Street  was  applied  very  early  t>>  that 
portion  north  and  east  of  the  State  House,  and  to  the  westerly 
part  before  the  Revolution.  At  this  time  there  were  nol  more 
than  three  houses  between  Charles  Street  and  the  upper  end 
of  the  Common,  the  Joy  house,  when  built,  making  the  fourth. 
The  rest  of  the  hill  was  covered  with  small  cedars  and  Dative 
shrubbery,  with  here  and  there  a  cow-path,  through  which  the 
herds  rangt'd  unmolested. 

The  home  of  Prescott,  the  eminent  historian,  waa  a1  55 
Beacon  Street.  A  deeper  interest  attaches  to  the  Lahore  of  the 
gifted  author  on  accounl  of  his  partial  blindness,  caused  by  an 
injury  to  his  eye  while  at  Harvard.  All  efforts  both  at  home 
and  abroad  failed  to  improve  his  Bight,  and  bis  literary  work  had 


334  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

to  be  performed  with  the  aid  of  an  amanuensis,  though  he 
occasionally  wrote  wit h  a  stylus  on  a  writing-frame  prepared  ex- 
pressly for  him.  No  library  can  be  called  complete  that  does 
not  contain  "  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,"  "  The  Conquest  of 
Mexico,"  "Peru,"  and  "Charles  the  Fifth."  He  died  before 
completing  his  Philip  II.,  which  he  had  intended  to  make  his 
greatest  work.  Mr.  Prescott  was  the  grandson  of  the  old 
soldier  of  Louisburg  and  Bunker  Hill,  and  by  a  coincidence 
married  a  granddaughter  of  that  Captain  Linzee  who  com- 
manded the  Falcon  at  the  battle  just  named.  He  was  a 
D.  C.  L.  of  Old  Oxford,  and  member  of  many  of  the  learned 
societies  of  Europe  and  America. 

The  mansion  of  the  late  David  Sears,  now  a  club  house,  is 
rendered  interesting  as  the  site  of  the  home  of  John  S.  Copley, 
the  distinguished  American  painter.  Copley  owned  the  greatest 
estate  in  Boston,  embracing  eleven  acres,  in  which  were  included 
the  reserved  six  acres  of  Blackstone.  Walnut  Street  was  the 
eastern  boundary,  Pinckney  Street  its  northern,  and  the  bay  its 
westerly  limit.  On  the  northwest  corner  of  the  tract  stood  the 
old  Powder  House  to  which  we  have  referred.  It  was  built  in 
1774,  remote  from  the  position  of  the  former  magazine  near  the 
Great  Tree,  where  it  had  been  exposed  to  accidents  on  days  of 
public  rejoicing.  The  walls  were  of  Braintree  granite,  seven 
feet  thick,  with  bomb-proof  arch.  It  was  surrounded  by  pali- 
sades, and  was  estimated  to  contain,  when  full,  a  thousand  bar- 
rels of  powder.     Near  it  was  a  watch-house. 

Copley  was  in  a  certain  sense  a  pupil  of  Smibert,  the  works 
of  that  artist  having  been  his  first  studies.  He  married  a 
daughter  of  Richard  Clarke,  a  rich  merchant,  and  one  of  the 
obnoxious  tea-consignees.  The  painter  acted  for  the  consign- 
ees in  one  of  the  conferences  with  the  town  committee.  The 
Clarkes  had  a  store  in  King  Street,  and  lived  in  the  Cooke 
mansion,  previously  described,  in  School  Street.  The  house 
was  visited  by  a  mob,  and  the  Clarkes  with  the  other  con- 
signees retired  for  safety  to  the  Castle. 

In  the  old  two-story  house  which  formerly  stood  here  Cop- 
ley painted  some  of  his  best  pictures,  probably  those  of  Han- 


A   TOUR   ROUND    THE    COMMON. 


335 


cock  and  Adams  among  the  number.  Here  also  Charles  W. 
Peale,  father  of  Rembrandt  Peale,  studied  with  Copley  in 
1768.  In  1774,  leaving  his  family  in  Boston,  Copley  Avent  to 
England,  where  he  at  once  gained  an  advanced  rank  among  the 


THE   SEARS    ESTATE. 


British  painters.  His  Death  of  Lord  Chatham  established  his 
fame,  and  his  large  picture  of  the  Siege  and  Relief  of  Gibraltar 
was  hung  in  Guildhall,  Loudon.     He  died  suddenly  in  L813. 

Dunlap  relates  that  Copley's  death  was  thought  to  have  been 
hastened  by  the  following  circumstance  :  — 

"Some  American  speculator  who  was  acquainted  with  the  superb 
situation  of  Copley's  house  in  Boston,  overlooking  the  beautiful 
green  and  parade  called  the  Common,  made  an  offer  to  the  painter 
for  the  purchase,  which,  in  comparison  to  the  value  of  property  in 
former  days  in  Boston,  seemed  enormous.    Copley  eagerly  closed 


336  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

with  him,  and  sold  the  property  for  a  song  compared  with  its  real 
value.  Shortly  after,  he,  learning  it  was  worth  twenty  times  the 
money  he  had  sold 'it  for,  tried  to  undo  the  bargain,  and  sent  his 
lawyer  son  to  Boston  for  the  purpose,  but  it  was  too  late." 

The  following  is  the  history  of  this  transaction.  In  1798 
Colonel  William  Hull,  being  in  London,  bought  of  Copley  all 
his  tract  of  land  west  of  the  Beacon  Hill.  About  the  same 
time  Gardiner  Greene,  Copley's  son-in-law  and  agent,  sold  the 
same  property  to  Harrison  Gray  Otis  and  Jonathan  Mason. 
The  other  claimants  at  length  compromised  with  Colonel  Hull, 
and  the  conveyance  was  made  by  the  younger  Copley  in  1776, 
when  he  came  to  the  United  States.  The  society  of  the  future 
Chancellor  of  Great  Britain  was  much  courted  during  his  visit 
to  Boston  and  Xew  York.  The  elder  Copley  never  returned  to 
his  native  city. 

Trumbull  describes  Copley  as  an  elegant-looking  man,  dressed 
in  fine  maroon  cloth  coat  with  gilt  buttons.  Besides  being  a 
painter,  Copley  was  an  engraver,  having  executed  a  portrait  of 
Bev.  William  Welsteed  of  Boston.  This  knowledge  served  him 
in  good  stead  in  London.  Copley,  with  West,  was  one  of 
Trumbull's  sureties  when  the  latter  Avas  thrown  into  prison  in 
London. 

Lord  Lyndhurst  said  his  father  was  his  own  master,  and 
entirely  devoted  to  his  art  to  the  last  year  of  his  life,  and  that 
he  never  saw  a  decent  picture,  except  his  own,  until  he  was 
thirty.  Sully's  opinion  of  Copley  was  that  he  was  equal  "  in 
all  respects  but  one  to  West ;  he  had  not. so  great  despatch,  but 
then  he  was  more  correct,  and  did  not  so  often  repeat  him- 
self." 

The  adverse  criticism  upon  Copley's  pictures  was  that  they 
wrere  crude  in  coloring,  and  wanted  ease  and  naturalness.  His 
historical  paintings  were  a  collection  of  portraits  without  action, 
but  his  draperies  were  considered  exquisite.  Dr.  Dibdin  con- 
sidered his  portraits  admirable,  but  too  stiff  and  stately.  A 
catalogue  of  the  existing  works  of  this  eminent  native  artist 
is  now  being  prepared  by  Mr.  Augustus  T.  Perkins  of  Boston. 

General  Knox  lived  in  the  Copley  House,  after  the  war,  for 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  337 

a  short  time.     The  old  mansion  fronted  Beacon  Street,  and  had 
fine  grounds  and  a  stable  attached. 

David  Sears  inherited  a  large  fortune  from  his  father,  and,  go 
where  you  will  in  Boston,  you  will  find  monuments  of  his 
wealth  and  enterprise.  He  commanded  the  Cadets  previous 
to  the  war  of  1812,  as  well  as  since  that  time.  His  mansion 
was  long  the  admiration  of  the  town.  Some  beautiful  panels 
in  the  front  were  executed  by  Willard. 

Harrison  Gray  Otis  erected  a  handsome  residence  next  west 
of  the  Sears  estate  ;  Judge  Cushing's  adjoined  it  on  the  east, 
and  was  the  second  of  the  three  houses  mentioned  as  consti- 
tuting Beacon  Street. 

The  house  standing  at  the  corner  of  Walnut  Street  was  the 
first  built  of  brick  on  Beacon  Street.  It  was  erected  in  1804 
by  Hon.  John  Phillips,  first  Mayor  of  Boston,  and  father  of 
Wendell  Phillips,  the  celebrated  antislavery  orator  of  Boston. 
His  maiden  speech  on  this  question  was  made  in  Faneuil  Hall 
in  1837,  twenty-four  years  before  the  antagonism  between  the 
North  and  South  culminated  in  civil  war.  Unlike  most  re- 
formers, he  has  lived  to  see  the  triumph  of  the  principles  to 
which  he  devoted  the  best  years  of  his  life.  Mr.  Phillips  pos- 
sesses the  natural  gift  of  eloquence,  and  stands  hardly  rivalled 
as  a  speaker  by  any  contemporary. 

This  mansion,  now  considerably  altered  in  its  exterior  ap- 
pearance, was  next  the  residence  of  Thomas  L.  Winthrop, 
lieutenant-governor  of  Massachusetts  from  1826-32,  who  died 
in  1841.  He  was  father  of  the  Hon.  Robert  C.  Winthrop,  wln> 
has  been  prominently  connected  with  most  of  the  societies  for 
the  advancement  of  science,  art,  and  literature,  and  whose  ser- 
vices in  many  fields  of  usefulness  are  fully  acknowledged  by 
his  fellow-citizens.  Mr.  Winthrop's  mother  was  a  daughter  of 
Sir  John  Temple,  and  he  is,  therefore,  by  this  marriage,  a 
great-grandson  of  Governor  Bowdoin.  The  statue  to  Franklin, 
in  School  Street,  is  the  product  of  his  suggestion  ;  and,  al  its 
inauguration,  he  delivered  an  address  on  the  life  and  character 
of  the  great  Bostonian. 

15  v 


338  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

On  the  opposite  corner  of  Walnut  Street  was  the  residence 
of  B.  P.  Homer,  a  highly  respected  merchant.  rIn  the  rear 
of  Mr.  Homer's,  on  Walnut  Street,  was  the  house  in  which 
Dr.  George  Parkman  lived  at  the  time  of  his  murder  hy  Web- 
ster in  18-49. 

Joy  Street  recalls  the  name  and  estate  of  Dr.  John  Joy,  ex- 
tending between  this  thoroughfare  and  Walnut  Street,  and 
Beacon  and  Mt.  Vernon  Streets.  Dr.  Joy  was  an  apothecary 
in  Washington  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Spring  Lane.  It  is 
related  that  his  wife  was  much  averse  to  a  removal  so  far  out 
of  town  as  Beacon  Street  then  was,  and  exacted  a  promise  from 
the  Doctor  to  return  into  the  town  at  no  distant  day.  In  that 
day  a  residence  in  Williams  Court  was  considered  far  more 
eligible.  The  doctor  built  a  wooden  ■  house  on  the  hill  back 
from  Beacon  Street,  which  was  ultimately  removed  to  South 
Boston  Point. 

Next  to  the  corner  of  Joy  Street  lived  Samuel  T,  Armstrong, 
another  of  Boston's  chief  magistrates,  of  whose  improvement 
of  the  Common  we  have  recited  several  instances.  He  was  the 
son  of  the  Revolutionary  soldier,  John  Armstrong.  Mr.  Arm- 
strong was  "lieutenant-governor  of  Massachusetts  in  1836.  He 
had  in  former  years  been  a  bookseller  in  State  Street,  at  the 
corner  of  Flagg  Alley,  —  the  firm  being  Belcher  and  Armstrong, 
—  and  then  at  No.  50  in  Old  Cornhill,  the  site  of  Paul  Revere's 
shop.  This  vicinity  took  the  name  of  Booksellers'  Row,  from 
the  number  Of  that  trade  there  congregated. 

Before  you  come  to  the  grounds  of  the  State  House,  two 
freestone  residences  attract  your  notice.  These  showy  edifices 
have  displaced  one  of  the  noblest  private  mansions  of  the  Colo- 
nial period,  built  by  Thomas  Hancock  in  1737,  and  given  to 
his  nephew,  the  governor,  by  his  aunt,  Lydia  Hancock.  The 
house  long  remained  a  unique  feature  of  the  surroundings  of 
the  Common,  until  it  became  too  antiquated  for  modern  ideas, 
and  too  valuable.  The  front  of  the  estate  embraced  from  Mt. 
Vernon  Street,  given  to  the  town  by  the  governor,  to  Joy 
Street,  formerly  Clapboard,  and  since  Belknap  Street.  All  of 
the  State  House  and  part  of  the  Reservoir  ground,  including  Han- 


A   TOUR   ROUND   THE   COMMON. 


:;:;'.) 


cock  Avenue,  Mt.  Vernon  Place,  and  a  part  of  Hancock  Street, 
in  which  was  situated 
his  nursery,  belonged 
to  the  Hancocks.  The 
site  of  the  State  House 
was  Hancock's  pasture ; 
and  gardens  and  or- 
chards surrounded  this 
truly  princely  mansion. 
The  building  was  of 
stone,  built  in  the  sub- 
stantial manner  favored 
by  the  wealthier  Bos-  "rgfr 
tonians.  The  walls 
were  massive.  A  bal- 
cony projected  over  the 

.  i  HANCOCK   MANSION. 

entrance  -  door,     upon 

which  opened  a  large  window  of  the  second  story.  Tin'  cor- 
ners and  window-openings  were  ornamented  with  Braintree 
stone,  and  the  tded  roof  was  surmounted  by  a  balustrade.  I  '"i 
mer  windows  jutted  out  from  the  roof,  from  which  might  be 
obtained  a  view  as  beautiful  as  extensive.  A  low  stone  wall 
protected  the  grounds  from  the  stnct,  on  which  was  placed  a 
light  wooden  fence,  with  gate-posts  of  the  .same  material.  A 
paved  walk  and  a  dozen  stone  steps  conducted  U>  the  mansion, 
situated  on  rising  ground  at  a  little  distance  hack  from  the 
street.  Before  the  door  was  a  wide  stone  slab,  worn  by  the 
feet  of  the  distinguished  inhabitant  and  his  illustrious  guests. 
A  wooden  hall,  designed  for  festive  occasions,  sixty  feel  in 
length,  was  joined  to  the  northern  wing;  it  was  afterwards  re- 
moved to  Allen  Strict. 

"As  you  entered  the  governor's  mansion,  to  the  right  was  the 
drawing»or  reception  room,  with  furniture  of  bird's-eye  maple  on 
ered  with  rich  damask.  Out  of  this  opened  the  dining-hall  referred 
to,  in  which  Hancock  gave  the  famous  breakfast  to  Admiral  D'Estoing 
and  his  officers,  Opposite  this  was  a  smaller  apartment,  the  usual 
dining-hall  of  the  family  ;  next  adjoining  were  the  china-room  and 
offices,  with  coach-house  ami  harn  behind 


340  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

"  At  the  left  of  the  entrance  was  a  second  saloon,  or  family  draw- 
ing-room, the  walls  covered  with  crimson  paper.  The  upper  and 
lower  halls  were  hung  with  pictures  of  game,  hunting-scenes,  and 
other  subjects.  Passing  through  this  hall,  another  flight  of  steps  led 
through  the  garden  to  a  small  summer-house  close  to  Mt.  Vernon 
Street.  The  grounds  were  laid  out  in  ornamental  flower-beds  bor- 
dered with  box  ;  box-trees  of  large  size,  with  a  great  variety  of 
fruit,  among  which  were  several  immense  mulbeiTy-trees,  dotted  the 
garden." 

Such  is  the  description  given  by  Miss  Eliza  G.  Gardner,  many 
years  an  inmate  of  the  Hancock  House. 

This  was  the  house  pillaged  by  the  soldiers  about  the  time 
of  the  battle  of  Lexington,  who  also  broke  down  and  mutilated 
the  fences,  until,  on  complaint  of  the  selectmen,  General  Gage 
sent  Percy  to  occupy  it.  It  is  also  stated  that  in  the  previous 
month  of  March  British  officers  had  set  an  example  to  the  men 
by  hacking  the  fences  with  their  swords,  breaking  windows, 
etc.  A  few  days  afterwards  Hancock  was  again  intruded  upon 
by  his  red-coated  neighbors,  who  refused  to  retire  from  his 
premises  at  his  request,  and  mockingly  told  him  his  possessions 
would  soon  be  theirs. 

At  this  time  Gage  had  an  order  from  the  king  for  Hancock's 
apprehension,  but  he  feared  to  meet  the  issue  ;  a  second  order 
directed  him  to  hang  the  patriot.  The  wrath  against  Hancock 
escaped  in  a  variety  of  ways  more  harmless.  One  of  the  effu- 
sions indited  to  the  patriot  reads  thus  :  — - 

"  As  for  their  king,  John  Hancock, 
And  Adams,  if  they  're  taken, 
Their  heads  for  signs  shall  hang  up  high 
Upon  that  hill  called  Beacon." 

The  Hancock  House  became  the  quarters  of  General  Clinton 
while  he  remained  in  Boston ;  he  took  command  at  Charles- 
town,  September,  1775.  Both  house  and  stables  were  in  part 
occupied  by  the  wounded  from  Bunker  Hill.  The  house,  how- 
ever, received  no  important  injury  during  the  occupation,  the 
furniture  shoAving  but  little  signs  of  ill-usage,  and  the  pictures 
remaining  untouched. 

In  this  house  Hancock  had  entertained  D'Estaing  in  1778, 


A   TOUR   ROUND   THE   COMMON.  3-41 

Lafayette  in  1781,  Washington  in  1789,  Brissot,  chief  of  the 
Girondists,  and,  in  later  times,  Lords  Stanley  and  Wbrtley,  and 
Labouchiere  and  Bougainville. 

D'Estaing  rested  under  a  cloud  for  his  desertion  of  our  forces 
in  Rhode  Island,  but  was,  nevertheless,  hospitably  entertained 
by  Hancock.  About  forty  of  the  French  officers  dined  every 
day  at  the  governor's  table,  for  he  was  a  generous  host.  On  one 
occasion  an  unusual  number  assembled  to  partake  of  the  gov- 
ernor's viands,  when,  in  the  language  of  Madam  Hancock,  "  the 
Common  was  bedizened  with  lace."  The  cooks  were  driven  to 
despair,  and  the  exigency  was  only  met  by  milking  the  cows  on 
the  Common.  We  do  not  learn  whether  this  was  acceptable  to 
the  owners  of  the  cows.  The  Count  requited  the  governor's 
entertainments  by  a  grand  dinner  on  board  his  ship.  The 
governor's  lady,  seated  near  her  host,  was  requested  to  pull  a 
cord,  which  was  the  signal  for  a  discharge  of  all  the  guns  of 
the  squadron.  The  good  dame  confessed  herself  surprised  at 
this  con})  de  theatre. 

Brissot  was  astonished  to  find  the  governor  in  friendly  con- 
verse with  "a  hatter"  (Nathaniel  Balch).  Balch  was  a  great 
favorite  of  the  governor's.  He  was  a  "fellow  of  infinite  jest," 
majestic  in  appearance,  benevolent,  and  of  sterling  worth.  His 
witticisms  never  failed  "to  set  the  table  in  a  mar."  Loring 
relates  that  when  Hancock  had  occasion  to  go  into  the  district 
of  Maine  on  an  official  visit,  he  was  attended  by  Hon.  A/or 
Orne  of  his  council,  and  his  old  friend  Balch.  Their  arrival 
at  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  was  thus  humorously  announced  :  — 

" On  Thursday  last,  arrived  in  this  town,  Nathaniel  Balch,  Esq., 
accompanied  by  His  Excellency  John  Hancock,  and  the  Hon.  A/or 
Orne." 

When  Hancock  was  dying  he  called  bia  old  friend  Balch  to 
his  bedside,  and  dictated  to  him  the  minutes  of  his  will,  in 
which  he  expressly  gave  his  mansion-house  to  the  Common- 
wealth. Death  intervened  before  this  intention  could  be  carried 
out. 

A  strong  effort  was  made  to  save  this  old  New  England  mon- 
ument, but  without  avail.    It  was  proposed  by  Governor  Banks, 


342  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

in  1859,  that  the  Commonwealth  should  purchase  it,  and  the 
heirs  ottered  it  at  a  low  valuation.  A  joint  committee  of  the 
Legislature  reported  favorably  upon  the  measure,  but  it  met 
with  strong  opposition  from  the  rural  districts,  and  was  defeated. 
Suggestions  were  ottered  to  make  it  the  residence  of  the  gov- 
ernors, or  a  museum  for  the  collection  of  Revolutionary  relics. 
The  house  was  in  excellent  preservation,  the  interior  wood-work 
being  sound  as  when  the  halls  echoed  to  the  tread  of  the  old 
governor.  The  chamber  of  Lafayette  remained  as  when  he 
slept  in  it ;  the  apartment  in  which  Hancock  died  was  intact ; 
the  audience-hall  was  the  same  in  which  Washington,  D'Estaing, 
Brissot,  the  Percy,  and  many  more  had  stood  ;  and,  finally,  the 
entrance-hall,  in  which  for  eight  days  the  dead  patriot  lay  in 
state,  opened  upon  the  broad  staircase  as  in  the  time  of  old 
Thomas  and  Lydia  Hancock. 

State  action  failing,  some  efforts  were  made  by  the  city,  in 
1863,  to  secure  the  relics  of  the  building  itself.  The  heirs 
offered  the  mansion,  with  the  pictures  and  some  other  objects 
of  historical  interest,  as  a  free  gift,  with  the  design  of  preserv- 
ing it  as  a  memento  of  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  history.  It 
was  proposed  to  take  it  down  and  erect  it  anew  on  some  other 
site.  Few  will  regret  that  such  an  historical  anachronism  was 
not  committed.  The  building  was  pulled  down,  and  with  it 
disappeared  the  only  monument  to  the  memory  of  John  Han- 
cock. 

Governor  Hancock  entered  the  Latin  School  in  1745.  He 
went  to  England  when  quite  young,  where  he  witnessed  the 
coronation  of  the  monarch  who  afterwards  set  a  price  upon  his 
head.  President  of  the  Provincial  Congress  in  1774,  of  the 
Continental  Congress  in  1776,  he  first  affixed  his  bold  auto- 
graph to  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  it  thus  circu- 
lated upon  the  floor  of  Congress.  We  find  him  acting  as 
moderator  at  a  town-meeting  in  1778,  the  same  year  he  Avas 
appointed  major-general  of  the  Massachusetts  militia.  We  have 
seen  him  presiding  over  and  directing  the  action  of  the  conven- 
tion which  ratified  the  Federal  Constitution,  and  at  the  peace, 
the  choice   of  the  people   of  his  native  State  as  their  chief 


A  TOUR  EOUND  THE  COMMON.  343 

magistrate.  Hancock  died  sincerely  regretted.  If  he  had  some 
conspicuous  faults,  they  were  more  than  counterbalanced  1>\  Ins 
many  noble  qualities. 

Hancock  was  tall,  nearly  six  feet,  and  thin.  In  later  years 
he  stooped  a  little,  and  was  a  martyr  to  the  gout.  In  his  attire 
he  was  a  type  of  the  fine  gentleman  of  his  day,  — a  scarlet  coat, 
ricldy  embroidered,  with  ruffles  of  the  finest  hnen,  being  his 
ordinary  dress. 

We  give  herewith  a  fac-simile  of  the  much-admired  auto- 
graph of  Governor  Hancock  appended  to  a  ticket  of  the  Lottery 
authorized  by  law  for  the  rebuilding  of  Faneuil  Hall  after  the 
fire  of  17G1.     The  engraving  is  of  the  exact  size  of  the  original. 


>^^*x>oc<xxx*x"SoS?xvx*xkxxxxx  * 
Boston    June  1765.  * 

-  Faneuil-l&W  LOTTERY,  No.  Five.  * 

*B»  /"T    HE  Poffcfibr  of  this  Ticket  (No  S&fiS*  )  # 

j      Jg>      is  intitlcd  to  aay   Prize  draws  againfl   Paid  ^ 
Number,  io  a  Lottery  granted  by  an  Aft  of  _ 
the  General  Court  of  the  Prormce  of  the  Ma  faehuftttt  ■ 
Bay,  for  Rebuilding  Faneuil  Hall  ;  fubjeft  to   so 
Deduction. 


* 


Wrffasii 


FANECIL   HALL   LOTTERY   TICKET. 


We  have  reached  the  highest  point  of  the  city,  and  can 
leisurely  contemplate  the  immense  pile  of  the  State  Souse, 
with  its  glistening  dome,  which  fitly  crowns  the  view  of  Bos- 
ton as  you  approach  by  land  or  water.  It  is  another  monument 
to  the  genius  of  Charles  Bulfinch,  by  whom  it  was  designed. 
Were  we  to  ascend  to  the  cupola  we  Bhould  sec  a  panorama 
spread  before  us  which  even  the  famed  Neapolitan  Beaporl  ran 
hardly  surpass.  Bui  of  Old  Boston,  as  it  atood  when  the  first 
Legislature  assembled  in  the  Capitol,  we  should  find  but  little 
remaining. 


344  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Dr.  Holmes  has  said  in  his  "  Autocrat,"  — 

"  Boston  State  House  is  the  hub  of  the  solar-  system.  You 
could  n't  pry  that  out  of  a  Boston  man  if  you  had  the  the  of  all 
creation  straightened  for  a  crowbar." 

This  expression  thus  applied  only  to  the  State  House,  but 
since  modified  into  the  "  Hub  of  the  Universe,"  is  now  gener- 
ally used  in  connection  with  Boston  itself,  until  the  Bostonian 
abroad  has  become  familiar  and  even  content  with  hearing 
his  native  or  adopted  city  styled  the  "  Hub  "  from  Maine  to 
California. 

The  State  House  tract  was  passed  by  the  town  to  the  Com- 
monwealth in  1795;  the  nominal  consideration  was  five  shil- 
lings. Samuel  Adams  laid  the  corner-stone  July  4  of  the 
same  year,  dedicating  it  forever  to  liberty  and  the  rights  of 
man.  In  1798  it  was  completed,  and  occupied  by  the  legisla- 
ture, Increase  Sumner  being  then  governor.  The  building  re- 
ceived enlargement  in  1855,  which  cost  considerably  more  than 
the  original  edifice. 

The  adornment  of  our  public  grounds  with  statues  of  dis- 
tinguished men  is  becoming  a  feature  of  Boston.  Washington, 
Franklin,  Webster,  Mann,  Everett,  Hamilton,  and  the  dis- 
coverer of  America  have  effigies  in  bronze  or  marble  in  their 
honor.  But  where  are  the  statues  to  Hancock,  Otis,  the 
Adamses,  Quincy,  and  the  rest  1 

A  copy  in  plaster  of  Houdon's  Washington,  at  Bichmond, 
Va.,  is  in  the  vestibule  of  the  Athenaeum,  as  is  also  a  plaster 
model  of  the  statue  of  .Bowditch  by  Ball  Hughes.  The  figure 
of  the  Saviour  on  the  apex  of  the  pediment  of  the  Church  of 
the  Immaculate  Conception  is  a  copy  from  Thorwaldsen.  The 
Aristides  and  Columbus  in  Louisburg  Square  are  specimens 
of  Italian  art,  and  were  imported  by  Mr.  Iasigi.  The  statue 
of  Hamilton  in  granite  in  Commonwealth  Avenue  is  by  Dr. 
Bimmer,  and  is  believed  to  have  been  the  first  in  the  country 
cut  from  that  material.  There  are  also  three  typical  figures  in 
granite  on  the  front  of  Horticultural  Hall,  representing  Flora, 
Ceres,  and  Pomona.      These  are  by  Milmore. 

The  bronze  statue  of  Webster  in  the  State  House  grounds  is 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  345 

by  Powers.  It  was  the  second  executed  by  the  artist,  the  first 
being  lost  at  sea  whde  en  route  from  Leghorn.  The  work 
hardly  fulfilled  the  expectations  of  Mr.  Webster's  admirers,  or 
the  hopes  founded  .on  the  high  reputation  of  the  sculptor.  It 
was  first  placed  in  the  vestibule  of  the  Athenaeum,  until  removed 
to  its  present  position  by  consent  of  the  Legislature. 

The  statue  of  Horace  Mann  was  cast  in  Munich,  and  is  the 
work  of  Miss  Stebbins.  The  fund  was  raised  by  the  contri- 
butions of  school-children  and  teachers  throughout  the  State. 
The  State  paid  for  the  pedestal. 

In  the  vestibule  are  the  statues  of  Governor  Andrew  and 
of  Washington.  The  latter  was  placed  in  the  State  House  in 
1827,  and  is  by  Sir  F.  Chantrey.  The  idea  originated  with 
gentlemen  of  Boston  who  had  been  associated  with  Washing- 
ton in  public  life.  They  organized  under  the  name  of  the 
Washington  Monument  Association,  and  first  intended  to  erect 
an  equestrian  statue,- — a  purpose  which  want  of  sufficient  funds 
obliged  them  to  abandon.  The  pose  of  the  figure  is  majestic 
and  at  the  same  time  without  stiffness ;  the  military  cloak 
thrown  across  the  shoulders  gives  an  ■ease  and  grace  to  the 
whole  design.  Chantrey  began  as  a  carver  climbing  to  emi- 
nence in  art  from  the  lowest  round  of  the  ladder. 

The  torn  and  battle-stained  colors  of  the  Massachusetts 
regiments  are  here  gathered  in  the  keeping  of  the  Common- 
wealth. In  life,  Governor  Andrew  presented  most  of  these  flags  ; 
his  statue  is  their  appropriate  guardian. 

In  the  lower  halls  are  also  placed  the  tablets  from  the  monu- 
ment formerly  on  the  summit,  of  Beacon  Hill.  They  are  four 
feet  four  inches  long,  and  three  feet  three  inches  wide.  The 
gilt  eagle  which  perched  upon  the  top  of  the  column  has  found 
a  place  over  the  Speaker's  chair,  in  the  Hall  of  Representatives. 
A  bust  of  Samuel  Adams  is  affixed  to  a  niche  in  the  wall  ;  and 
the  alcove  in  which  stands  the  Chantrey  statue  is  flanked  by 
two  brass  cannon  consecrated  to  the  valor  of  [saac  Davis  and 
John  Buttrick,  two  heroes  of  the  battle  of  Lexington 

On  the  2fith  of  August.  1824,  Lafayette  received  the  citizens 
of  Boston  in  the  lower  hall;  and  on  the  nexl  day  a  second 
15* 


346  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

reception  was  given  by  the  distinguished  Frenchman.  No 
greater  crowds  ever  thronged  to  do  homage  to.  any  visitor  in 
the  halls  of  the  Capitol.  On  this  occasion  the  national  stand- 
ard was  displayed  for  the  first  time  from  the  cupola. 

When  the  General  was  again  in  Boston  in  1825,  to  assist  at 
the  laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  the 
Legislature  resolved  to  invite  him  to  meet  it  in  the  Hall  of 
Representatives,  and  requested  ex-Governor  Lincoln  to  address 
him  on  the  occasion.  The  General  was  received  by  both 
houses  in  joint  convention  on  the  16th  of  June,  Governor 
Lincoln  in  the  Speaker's  chair.  Among  the  distinguished  guests 
was  Mr.  Barbour,  United  States  Secretary  of  War. 

In  the  Senate  Chamber  are  portraits  of  the  old  Colonial 
governors  Endicott,  Winthrop,  Leverett,  Bradstreet,  and  Bur- 
net. A  fine  portrait  of  Governor  Sumner,  presented  by  General 
W.  H.  Sumner,  hangs  above  the  President's  chair.  There  are 
also  portraits  of  Francis  Higginson,  first  minister  of  Salem, 
and  of  Robert  Rantoul. 

On  the  front  of  the  gallery  are  some  interesting  relics  of  the 
battle  of  Bennington,  presented  by  General  John  Stark.  They 
are  a  musket,  drum,  a  heavy  trooper's  sword,  and  grenadier's 
cap  with  the  curious  conical  brass  plate,  on  which,  as  well  as 
the  brass  plate  of  the  drum,  is  embossed  the  emblematic  horse 
of  the  Duchy  of  Westphalia. 

Underneath  is  the  letter  of  acceptance  written  by  order  of 
the  General  Assembly,  and  signed  by  Jeremiah  Powell,  Presi- 
dent of  the  Council. 

Besides  these  are  two  old  firelocks,  bequeathed  to  the  State 
by  Rev.  Theodore  Parker.  One  of  them  has  the  maker's  name 
on  the  lock-plate,  "  Grice,  1762,"  and  an  inscription  on  the  butt 
as  follows  :  — - 

"  The  First  Fire  Arm, 

Captured  in  the 
War  for  Independence." 

The  other  is  more  antiquated  in  appearance.  It  has  the  donor's 
name  on  the  lock-plate,  and  an  inscription  on  the  breech  which 
reads,  — 


A   TOUR   ROUND   THE    COMMON. 


347 


"  This  Firearm  was  used  by 

Capt  John  Parker 

hi  the  Battle  of  Lexington 

April  19th 

1775." 

In  connection  with  the  State  House  we  present  an  en- 
graving of  the  desk,  long  used  in  the  Old  State  House  by- 
successive  speakers  of  the  House  of  Representatives.  On  the 
removal  of  the  Legislature  from 
their  time-honored  place  of  meet- 
ing, this  desk  was  deemed  too  an- 
tiquated for  further  service.  It 
is  now  one  of  the  interesting  me- 
morials of  the  colony  in  the  keep- 
ing of  the  Historical  Society.  The 
chair  is  a  relic  of  Plymouth  Col- 
ony, having  belonged  to  Governor 
Edward  Winslow,  and  is  also  de- 
posited with  the  same  society. 

Let  us  contrast  for  a  moment 
the  spacious  halls  of  legislation  and  conveniences  of  the  NVw 
State  House  with  the  confined  limits  of  the  Old,  and  let  John 
Adams  describe  the  famous  Councd  Chamber  of  the  latter  as 
he  saw  it  in  17G8. 

"The  same  glorious  portraits  of  King  Charles  TT.  ami  King 
James  II.,  to  which  might  be  added,  and  should  be  added,  little 
miserable  likenesses  of  Governor  Winthrop,  Governor  Bradstreet, 
Governor  Endicott,  and  Governor  Belcher,  hung  up  in  obscure 
corners  of  the  room.  Lieutenant-Governor  Hutchinson,  <  Jommander- 
in-Chief  in  the  absence  of  the  Governor,  must  lie  placed  at  the  head 
of  the  council  table.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Dalryrnple,  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  his  Majesty's  military  forces,  taking  rank  of  all  his 
Majesty's  counsellors,  must  he  seated  by  tlie  -ide  of  tin-  Lieutenant- 
Governor  and  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  province,  Eight-and- 
twenty  counsellors  must  he  painted,  all  seated  at  the  council-board. 
Let  me  see,  what  costume  1  What  was  the  fashion  of  that  day  in 
the  month  of  March?  Large  white  wigs,  English  Bcarlel  clotb 
cloaks,  some  of  them  with  gold-laced  hats,  not  on  their  beads,  in* 
deed,  in  so  august  a  presence,  hut  on  a  table  before  them.     Before 


speaker's  desk,  and  winslow's  chair. 


348  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

these  illustrious  personages  appeared  Samuel  Adams,  a  member  of 
the  House  of  Representatives,  and  their  clerk,  now  at-  the  head  of 
the  great  assembly  at  the  Old  South  Church.  Thucydides,  Livy, 
or  Sallust  would  make  a  speech  for  him,  or  perhaps  the  Italian 
Botta,  if  he  had  known  anything  of  this  transaction,  one  of  the  most 
important  of  the  Revolution  ;  but  I  am  wholly  incapable  of  it  ; 
and  if  I  had  vanity  enough  to  think  myself  capable  of  it,  should  not 
dare  to  attempt  it." 

The  portraits  referred  to  by  the  venerable  writer  were  full 
lengths,  attributed  to  Vandyke,  but  evidently  erroneously,  as 
these  monarchs  were  minors  when  Vandyke  died.  Governor 
Pownall,  in  whose  time  they  were  sent  over,  placed  them  in 
some  obscure  corner,  where  they  remained  until  Governor 
Bernard  discovered  and  mounted  them  in  elegant  frames,  and 
hung  them  in  the  Council  Chamber. 

In  the  State  Library  is  a  fine  original  portrait  of  General 
Gage,  presented  to  the  State  by  General  W.  H.  Sumner,  be- 
tween whom  and  the  British  general's  wife  it  will  be  remem- 
bered a  relationship  existed.  The  last  of  the  royal  governors 
is  separated  from  fellowship  with  his  illustrious  predecessors. 

Suspended  from  the  ceiling  of  the  Bepresentatives'  Chamber 
is  the  ancient  symbol  of  Massachusetts,  the  codfish,  which  has 
been  a  greater  source  of  wealth  than  the  mines  of  California. 
The  same  fish,  which  the  reader  may  see  upon  one  of  the 
colony  stamps  we  have  represented  in  a  previous  chapter,  hung 
in  the  old  hall  in  State  Street,  but  was  taken  down,  and  was 
not  restored  until  after  the  peace,  when,  on  the  motion  of  John 
Bowe,  it  was  again  disp  ayed  before  the  assembled  wisdom  of 
the  Commonwealth. 

John  Davis,  the  intrepid  navigator  of  Queen  Elizabeth's 
reign,  was  on  our  coast  in  1585,  in  search  of  a  northwest  pas- 
sage, and  records  his  experience  of  the  great  schools  of  codfish 
he  encountered.  Davis  discovered  the  well-knoAvn  straits  to 
which  his  name  has  ever  since  been  applied.     He  says  :  — 

"Wee  beeing  vnprouided  of  fishing  furniture,  with  a  long  spike 
nayle  made  a  hoke,  and  fastening  the  same  to  one  of  our  sounding 
lynes  Before  the  bayte  was  changed  wee  tooke  more  than  fortie 
great  cods,  the  fishe  swimming  so  abouudantly  thicke  about  our 


A   TOUR   ROUND   THE   COMMON. 


:;-i:i 


/% 


barke  as  is  incredible  to  be  reported  of,  which,  with  a  small  portion 
of  suite  that  wee  had,1  wee  presented  some  thirtie  couple,  or  there 
aboutes,  and  soe  returned  for  England." 

The  summit  of  Beacon  Hill,  on  which  stood  the  ancienl 
Pharos  of  Boston,  is  intersected  by  Temple  Street,  named  for 
Sir  John  Temple,  who  married  a  daughter  of  Governor  Bowdoin. 
A  portion  of  the  elevation  comes  within 
the  Reservoir  site,  and  the  houses  south 
of  it.  The  tract  owned  by  the  town 
was  only  six  rods  square,  with  a  way 
of  thirty  feet  leading  to  it.  This  was 
sold  to  John  Hancock  and  Samuel 
Spear  in  1811,  when  the  action  of  the 
abutters  in  digging  down  the  hill  ren- 
dered it  untenable.  On  the  top  of  this 
grassy  mound  was  erected  the  Beacon, 
shown  in  all  the  early  plans  of  the  town. 
It  was  a  tall  mast  standing  on  cross  tim- 
bers placed  upon  a  stone  foundation, 
and  supported  by  braces.  Treenails  were 
driven  through  the  mast  by  which  it  was 
ascended  \  and  near  the  top  projected  a 
crane  of  iron  sixty-five  feet  from  the  base, 
upon  which  was  suspended  an  iron  skele- 
ton frame,  designed  to  receive  a  barrel  of 
tar,  or  other  combustibles.  This  recep 
tacle  was  placed  at  an  altitude  of  more 
than  two  hundred  feet  from  the  sea  Level, 
and  could  be  seen,  when  fired,  for  a  great  distance  inland.  It- 
object  was  to  alarm  the  country  in  case  of  invasion.  This 
beacon  was  erected  about  1G34 —  35,  ihr  town  having  ordered 

it  set  up  on  Gentry  Hill  in  this  year,  with  a   watch  of  i 

person,  to  give  the  signal  on  the  approach  of  danger.  It  wis 
newly  erected  in  17G8,  having  fallen  from  Borne  cause  un- 
known.     In  November,  1789,  the  beacon  was  blown  down. 

Following  the  primitive  signal  spar,  a  monumenl   of  brick, 
sixty  feet  in  height  and  four  in  diameter,  was  erected,  in  L790, 


-.'    •  /     -A 


350 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


to  the  memory  of  those  who  fell  at  Bunker  Hill.  Charles 
Bulhnch  was  the  .designer.  It  was  a  plain  Doric 'shaft,  raised 
on  a  pedestal  of  stone  and  brick,  eight 
feet  high.  The  outside  was  encrusted 
with  cement ;  and  on  the  top  was  a 
large  gilded  eagle  of  wood,  supporting 
the  American  Arms.  After  the  fall  of 
the  old  beacon,  Governor  Hancock  of- 
fered to  erect  another  at  his  own  cost, 
but  the  movement  for  an  obelisk  being 
already  on  foot,  the  proposal  was  with- 
drawn, and  the  selectmen  proceeded  to 
lay  out  the  lull  for  the  monument.  The 
monument  was  taken  down  and  the 
hill  levelled  in  1811.  It  stood  very 
near  the  southeast  corner  of  the  Reser- 
voir, Temple  Street  passing  directly 
over  its  position.  The  earth  which 
formed  the  cone  was  deposited  in  the 
Millpond,  making  a  future  foundation 
for  the  Lowell  and  Eastern  Eailroad 
stations.  The  tablets  of  slate  bore  in- 
scriptions written  by  the  architect, 
Charles  Bulfinch,  as  follows  :  — 


ON   THK   SOUTH   SIDE. 

To  Commemorate 

the  train  of  events 

■which  led 

to  the  American  Revolution 

and  finally  secured 

Liberty  and  Independence 

to  the  United  States, 

this  column  is  erected 

by  the  voluntary  contributions 

of  the  citizens 

of  Boston 
M.D.CCXC. 


ON  THE   EAST   SIDE. 

Americans 

'While  from  this  eminence 

Scenes  of  luxuriant  fertility 

of  flourishing  commerce 

and  the  abodes  of  social  happiness 

meet  your  view, 

Forget  not  those 

who  by  their  exertions 

Have  secured  to  you 

these  blessings. 


A   TOUR   ROUND    THE   COMMON".  351 

ON   THE    WEST    SIDE. 

<        Stamp  Act  passed  1765.     Repealed  1766. 

Board  of  Customs  established,  1767 

British  troops  fired  on  the  inhabitants  of  Boston, 

March  5,  1770 

Tea  Act  passed  1773.     Tea  destroyed  in  Boston,  December  16. 

Port  of  Boston  shut  and  guarded  June  1,  1771. 

General  Congress  at  Philadelphia  Sept.  5 

Battle  at  Lexington,  April  19,  1775. 

Battle  at  Bunker  Hill,  June  17. 

Washington  took  command  of  the  army  July  2. 

Boston  evacuated,  March  17,  1776. 

Independence  declared  by  Congress., 

Hancock  President,  July  4. 

ON   THE  NORTH   SIDE. 

Capture  of  the  Hessians  at  Trenton,  Dec.  26,  1776 

Capture  of  the  Hessians  at  Bennington,  Aug.  16,  1777 

Capture  of  the  British  army  at  Saratoga,  Oct.  17. 

Alliance  with  France  Feb.  6,  1778. 

Confederation  of  the  United  States  formed, 

Bowdoin  President  of  Convention,  1780. 

Capture  of  the  British  army  at  York,  Oct.  19,  1781 

Preliminaries  of  Peace  Nov.  30, 1782 

Definitive  Treaty  of  Peace  Sept.  10,  17S3 

Federal  Constitution  formed,  Sept.  17,  1787 

And  Ratified  by  the  United  States,  1787  to  1790. 

New  Congress  assembled  at  New  York,  April  6,  1790. 

Washington  inaugurated  President,  April  30. 

Public  Debt  funded,  August  4,  1790. 

The  base  of  the  monument  was  enclosed  by  a  railing,  with 
benches  for  the  use  of  pilgrims  to  the  spot.  A  view,  equalled 
only  by  that  now  to  be  ol >tai m sd  Prom  the  lantern  of  the  State 
House,  well  repaid  a  breathless  scramble  up  the  steep  acclivity. 
On  the  Deme  Street  side  a  flight  of  wooden  steps  conducted 
part  way  up  the  eminence,  but,  after  that,  the  explorer  had  to 
avail  himself  of  the  foot-holes  worn  by  other  visitors,  until  be 
reached"  a  space  fifty  feel  square  on  the  summit.  <>n  all  Bides, 
except  the  north,  the  contour  <>!'  tin-  ground  was  perfect  ;  there 
it  had  been  encroached  upon,  in  1764,  to  a  degree  endangering 
the  elevation,  by  one  Thomas  rlodson.  The  town,  by  a  com- 
mittee, remonstrated  with  rlodson,  bul  to  do  purpose,  although 
Thomas  Hancock  and  -lames  (  Mis,  Esqrs.,  were  of  the  delegation, 


352  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

The  contumacious  Hodson  persisted  in  digging  gravel  on  his  lot, 
and  the  committee  were  obliged  to  content  themselves  with  a 
recommendation  to  employ  the  intervention  of  the  General  Court. 

No  account  appears  that  the  original  beacon  was  ever  used, 
but  when  the  troops  were  momentarily  expected  in  1768,  the 
Bostonians  prepared  it  for  firing,  to  give  the  intelligence  to  the 
country.  Governor  Bernard  waxed  very  wroth  at  this  presump- 
tion, and  sent  Sheriff  Greenleaf  to  remove  the  tar-barrel  which 
the  Sons  of  Liberty  had  placed  in  the  skillet.  "  Matters  now," 
wrote  the  governor,  "  exceeded  all  former  exceedings." 

In  1865  the  Legislature  authorized  the  rebuilding  of  Beacon 
Hill  Monument  by  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument  Association, 
they  to  receive  the  tablets  now  in  the  custody  of  the  Common- 
wealth. To  Mr.  B.  C.  Winthrop  is  said  to  belong  the  credit 
of  the  suggestion,  as  yet  not  carried  out. 

Mt.  Vernon  Street  was  formerly  called  Sumner  Street  as  far 
as  Belknap  ;  beyond  this  it  was  Olive  Street.  The  whole  was 
then  called  Sumner,  and,  in  1833,  by  its  present  name.  Han- 
cock was  George  Street ;  Bowdoin,  like  Hancock,  named  for  the 
governor,  was  first  Middlecott  Street.  As  early  as  1722  only 
a  narrow  pathway  prolonged  Beacon  Street  across  the  Hancock 
pasture,  around  the  base  of  Beacon  Hill.  To  this  the  name  of 
Davie's  Lane  was  given.  Beacon  Street  then  terminated  at  the 
Almshouse. 

Besides  the  ropewalks  mentioned  west  of  Hancock  Street, 
there  was  one  east  of  it,  which  became  the  property  of  the 
State  by  purchase.  This  ropewalk-site  now  forms  the  westerly 
side  of  the  Reservoir.  A  long  ropewalk,  coinciding  nearly  with 
the  line  of  Belknap  Street,  is  upon  the  earliest  map ;  ropemak- 
ing  was  an  important  industry  of  Old  Boston,  especially  of  the 
westerly  portion  of  it. 

Succeeding  to  the  old  gambrel-roofed  Almshouse  came  the 
stately  edifice  at  the  corner  of  Park  and  Beacon  Streets,  chiefly 
remarkable  as  having  been  the  house  in  which  Lafayette  so- 
journed during  his  visit  to  Boston  in  1824.  It  was  erected  by 
Thomas  Amory,  before  1 800,  for  his  residence,  its  site  commanding 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Common,  but  was  later  divided  into  four 


A   TOUR   ROUND   THE   COMMON. 


353 


dwellings.  In  part  of  tins  mansion  resided  Christopher  Gore, 
during  the  year  he  was  governor  of  Massachusetts.  Fisher 
Ames,  who  died  July  4,  1808,  was  buried  from  this  house. 
The  funeral  services  took  place  at  King's  Chapel.  Hon.  Sam- 
uel Dexter  pro- 
nounced his  eu- 
logy. It  was 
later  tenanted 
by  George  Tick- 
nor,  the  distin- 
guished scholar, 
one  of  the  found- 
ers of  the  Public 
Library,  and  au- 
thor of  the  His- 
tory of  Spanish 
Literature. 

Before  the  di- 
vision   of     the 

building,  it  was  kept  as  a  fashionable  boarding-house  by  Mrs. 
Carter,  until  she  removed  to  the  present  Howard  Street.  These 
boarding-houses  were,  before  the  erection  of  the  Tremont  House, 
the  resort  of  strangers  visiting  Boston. 

Edward  G.  Malbone,  the  celebrated  portrait-painter,  had  his 
studio  there.  He  accompanied  Allston  to  Europe,  and  was 
urged  by  West  to  remain,  but  preferred  returning  to  the  United 
States.     Malbone  excelled  in  miniature-painting. 

Samuel  Dexter  was  a  resident  in  that  part  of  the  house  flout- 
ing on  Beacon  Street.  A  Bostonian  and  a  Harvard  man,  Mr. 
.Dexter  was  one  of  the  greatest  lawyers  Massachusetts  ever  had. 
Judge  Story  said  of  him  that  he  never  descended  to  finesse  or 
cunning  before  a  jury  ;  "Webster,  that  his  statements  were  argu- 
ments. He  served  in  both  houses  of  Congress  ;  in  the  upper 
branch  during  the  exciting  times  of  the  troubles  with  the  French 
Republic.  He  was  successively  Secretary  of  War  and  of  the 
Treasury,  under  Mr.  Adams,  and  for  a  time  acting  Secretary  of 
State.    In  politics  Mr.  Dexter  was  a  stanch  Federalist,  hut  sup- 


LAFAYETTE  S    RESIDENCE. 


354  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

ported  tlie  war  of  1812.  He  was  first  president  of  the  first 
temperance  society  formed  in  Massachusetts.  The  accomplished 
scholar,  Lucius  M.  Sargent,  studied  law  with  Mr.  Dexter. 

After  Mr.  Dexter,  the  building  was  used  —  not  too  success- 
fully —  as  a  club-house.  It  was  rented  by  Mr.  Quincy,  when 
mayor  of  Boston,  for  the  use  of  Lafayette,  during  the  week  he 
was  the  guest  of  the  city. 

Lafayette,  in  order  to  redeem  his  pledge  to  be  in  Boston  at  a 
stated  time,  had  to  ride  forty  miles  at  night,  arriving  at  Dedham 
at  midnight.  His  meeting  with  Governor  Eustis,  with  whom 
he  had  been  acquainted  in  the  old  Bevolutionary  army,  was  ex- 
tremely interesting,  the  governor  exclaiming,  "  I  am  the  hap- 
piest man  that  ever  lived." 

The  General  was  escorted  from  the  residence  of  Governor 
Eustis,  in  Roxbury,  into  town,  by  a  cavalcade  which  conducted 
him  to  the  city  limits,  where  he  was  received  by  the  city  au- 
thorities. He  proceeded,  under  a  military  escort,  to  the  head 
of  the  mall  on  Tremont  Street,  where  the  scholars  of  the  public 
schools  were  drawn  up  to  receive  him.  All  accounts  agree  that 
on  no  occasion  were  there  ever  so  many  people  in  Boston  before. 
After  paying  his  respects  to  the  governor  and  Council  in  the 
Senate  Chamber,  the  General  was  conveyed  to  his  lodgings.  A 
handsome  arch  was  thrown  over  "Washington  Street,  at  the  site 
of  the  old  fortifications,  with  this  inscription  written  on  the 
spur  of  the  moment  the  day  previous  by  the  poet  Sprague  :  — 

"  Welcome,  Lafayette  ! 
The  fathers  in  glory  shall  sleep, 

That  gathered  with  thee  to  the  fight, 
But  the  sons  will  eternally  keep 

The  tablet  of  gratitude  bright. 
We  bow  not  the  neck,  and  we  bend  not  the  knee  ; 
But  our  hearts,  Lafayette,  we  surrender  to  thee." 

Another  arch  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  Old  Liberty 
Stump,  opposite  Boylston  Market.  Lafayette  rode,  uncovered, 
in  the  barouche  with  Mr.  Quincy,  bowing  incessantly  to  the 
multitudes  that  pressed  around  him.  A  scene  of  great  interest 
occurred  when  the  General  appeared  on  the  balcony  of  the  man- 
sion he  was  to  occupy.     On  either  side  of  liim  were  Governor 


A  TOUR  ROUND  THE  COMMON.  355 

Eustis  and  ex-Governor  Brooks,  clad  in  their  old  Continental 
uniforms.  These  two,  brothers  in  arms,  had  buried  an  old 
animosity  to  greet  the  noble  Frenchman,  —  a  circumstance 
known  to  and  applauded  by  many.  The  Boston  Begiment, 
which  had  escorted  the  General,  passed  in  review ;  and,  amid 
the  cheers  of  thousands  of  spectators,  the  General  and  his  dis- 
tinguished companions  withdrew. 

A  dinner  was  given  to  Lafayette  at  the  Exchange  Coffee 
House  on  the  27th,  at  which,  after  the  company  had  partaken 
of  an  elegant  repast  provided  by  Colonel  Hamilton,  the  General 
gave  the  following  toast  :  — 

"  The  city  of  Boston,  the  cradle  of  Liberty  ;  may  Faneuil  Hall 
ever  stand  a  monument  to  teach  the  world  that  resistance  to  oppres- 
sion is  a  duty,  and  will,  under  true  republican  institutions,  become 
a  blessing." 

The  General  made  a  visit  to  the  battle-ground  of  Bunker 
Hill,  also  to  the  Navy  Yard,  where  he  was  welcomed  by  Com- 
modore Bainbridge.  He  passed  an  evening  at  Mrs.  Lloyd's, 
lady  of  Senator  Lloyd,  at  their  residence  in  Somerset  Street. 
He  also  visited  Governor  Eustis  at  Roxbury,  and  Governor 
Brooks  at  Medford,  where,  in  allusion  to  the  ex-governor,  an 
arch  was  erected  near  the  meeting-house  with  the  inscrip- 
tion :  — 

"General  Lafayette, 
Welcome  to  our  hills  and  Brooks." 

He  attended  divine  service  on  Sunday  at  Brattle  Street, 
where  he  heard  Dr.  Palfrey,  and  in  the  afternoon  went  to 
Quincy  to  dine  with  the  venerable  John  Adams.  "That  was 
not  the  John  Adams  I  remember,"  said  the  General,  sadly,  after- 
wards. "That  was  not  the  Lafayette  I  remember,"  said  the 
patriarch  after  the  meeting.*  Both  had  changed,  the  ex- Presi- 
dent was  verging  on  ninety,  and  the  General  sixty-seven  ;  Mr. 
Adams  died  in  1826,  Lafayette  in  1834. 

On  Monday,  August  .">(>,  a  grand  military  review  took  place 
on  the  Common.  The  troops  were  under  the  command  of 
Major-General  Crane.  The  Cadets  escorted  General  Lafayette 
from  his  lodgings  to  the  State  House,  thence  to  the  Common, 

*  Life  of  Quincy. 


356  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

where  the  governor  and  other  officers  of  the  Commonwealth 
were  assembled.  About  six  thousand  troops  took'part  in  the 
review,  Generals  Lyman  and  Appleton  commanding  brigades. 
Dinner  was  served  in  an  immense  marquee,  to  which  more  than 
twelve  hundred  guests  sat  down.  In  the  evening  the  General 
gave  a  levee  at  his  residence  which  was  thronged  by  all  classes, 
the  Marquis  bestowing  particular  attention  on  every  individual 
of  humble  appearance  or  advanced  age. 

Lafayette  enjoyed  his  visit  to  Boston  highly.  He  was  cheered 
to  the  echo  whenever  he  went  abroad,  and  the  corner  of  Park 
Street  was  seldom  deserted.  One  day,  when  he  returned  from 
some  excursion  with  the  mayor,  there  was  a  great  crowd  to  see 
him  alight.  He  turned  to  the  mayor  and  said,  "  Mr.  Quiney, 
were  you  ever  in  Europe  ] "  "  No,  General."  "  Then,"  said 
Lafayette,  "you  cannot  understand  the  difference  between  a 
crowd  in  Europe  and  here  in  Boston ;  why,  I  should  imagine 
the  people  of  your  city  were  a  picked  population  out  of  the 
whole  human  race." 

General  Lafayette's  first  visit  to  Boston  was  in  1778,  with 
D'Estaing.  He  was  next  here  in  1780,  when  he  returned  from 
a  trip  to  France,  where  he  had  been  to  transact  some  business. 
He  remembered  perfectly  the  persons  who  had  received  him  on 
that  occasion,  —  when  he  landed  from  the  frigate  Hermione  at 
Hancock's  wharf,  —  and  whom  he  had  visited.  On  his  second 
visit  he  was  accompanied  by  his  son  and  by  M.  Levasseur.  The 
people  of  America  will  not  soon  forget  their  generous  and  gal- 
lant ally,  who  asked  permission  to  serve  as  a  volunteer  in  the 
American  army.  Brandywine,  where  he  was  wounded,  and  the 
trenches  of  Yorktown,  alike  attest  his  valor.  He  has  no  monu- 
ment ;  but  paper,  even  more  durable  than  marble,  furnishes 
us  with  records  like  this  :  — 

"  Head-quarters  Oct.  15th,  1781. 

For  to-morrow. 

M.  G.  M.  La  Fayette, 

B.  G.  Muhlenburg  and 

Haynes'  brigade. 

Maj.  gen.  La  Fayette's  division  will  mount  the  trenches  to-morrow." 


A  TOUR  BOUND  THE  COMMON.  357 

It  was  at  Yorktown  that  the  Marquis,  with  his  American 
Light  Division,  stormed  the  enemy's  river-battery,  wliilo  Baron 
Viomenil,  with  the  French  grenadiers  and  chasseurs,  assaulted 
another  important  work  on  the  extreme  left.  The  Americans, 
with  the  Marquis  at  their  head,  succeeded  in  capturing  their 
redoubt  first,  when  Lafayette  sent  his  aid,  Major  Barbour,  to 
the  Baron  with  the  message,  "  I  am  in  my  redoubt ;  where  are 
you  1 "  The  Baron,  who  was  waiting  for  his  men  to  clear  away 
the  abattis,  returned  answer,  "  I  am  not  in  mine,  but  will  be  in 
five  minutes."  A  touching  incident  of  his  visit  connected  with 
this  exploit  is  related  by  Mr.  Quincy  :  — 

"  On  the  day  of  his  arrival  an  old  soldier  would  press  through  the 
crowd  in  the  Statu  House,  and  cried  out,  '  You  don't  remember  me, 
General  ;  but  I  was  close  to  you  when  we  stormed  our  redoubt  at 
Yorktown.  I  was  just  behind  Captain  Smith.  You  remember  Cap- 
tain Smith?  He  was  shot  through  the  head  as  he  mounted  the 
redoubt.'  'Ah  yes,  yes!  I  remember,'  returned  Lafayette.  'Poor 
Captain  Smith  !     But  we  beat  the  French  !  we  beat  the  French  ! ' " 

Next  below  the  residence  of  Mr.  Ticknor  on  Pai'k  Street 
was  that  of  Hon.  Abbott  Lawrence.  Farther  down  is  that  of 
Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.,  the  second  mayor  of  that  name.  His  ad- 
ministration will  be  remembered  for  the  introduction  of  the 
Cochituate  water,  —  a  measure  strenuously  urged  by  his  father 
twenty  years  before  its  accomplishment.  The  event  was  cele- 
brated with  military  and  civic  displays,  and  an  immense  multi- 
tude thronged  the  Common  to  see  the  water  let  on  for  the  first 
time. 

At  the  corner  of  Beacon  and  Mt.  Vernon  Streets  was  the 
residence  of  William  Molineux,  one  of  the  early  patriots  and  a 
prominent  merchant.  He  built  a  splendid  mansion  for  bis  day. 
but  died  in  1774.  Mr.  Molineux  was  one  of  the  famous  com- 
mittee that  demanded  of  Governor  Hutchinson  the  immediate 
removal  of  the  troops  after  the  Massacre.  His  colleagues  were 
Adams  (Samuel),  Hancock,  Warren,  Phillips,  Heiishaw,  and 
Pemberton.  John  Adams  relates,  as  an  amusing  incident,  that 
Molineux  was  obliged  to  march  side  by  side  with  the  com- 
mander of  some  of  the  troops,  to  protect  them  from  the  indig- 


358 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


nation  of  the  people,  in  their  progress  to  the  wharf,  from  which 
they  were  to  embaxk  for  the  Castle. 

As  the  agent  of  Charles  Ward  Apthorp,  Mr.  Molineux  rented 
the  stores  belonging  to  the  former,  on  Wheelwright's  wharf,  for 
barracks.  The  estate  of  Molineux  seems  to  have  passed  to  Mr. 
Apthorp,  for  we  find  it  confiscated  as  such  by  the  Common- 
wealth. In  1782  it  became  the  residence  of  Daniel  Denison 
Rogers. 

Having  completed  our  circuit  of  the  Common,  we  may  ven- 
ture the  remark  that  its  beauty,  as  a  park,  is  surpassed  by  the 
value  of  its  historical  associations. 

We  have  seen  that  part  of  the  forces  which  captured  Louis- 
burg  were  assembled  and  organized  here  ;  that  the  troops  which 
conquered  Quebec  were  recruited  and  probably  brigaded  here  by 
Amherst ;  that  it  was  the  mustering-place  for  the  conflicts  which 
ushered  in  the  American  Revolution  ;  and  the  fortified  camp 
which  held  the  beleaguered  town  in  subjection. 

It  is  associated  with  the  deep  horrors  of  Quaker  executions  ; 
with  the  eloquence  of  Whitefield,  which  paved  the  way  for 
many  eminent  divines  after  him  to  address  the  people  under 
the  "  Cathedral  trees."  It  has  in  all  times  been  a  place  for 
public  rejoicings,  for  the  celebration  of  our  republican  calendar 
days,  or  for  martial  displays. 

The  repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act  was  celebrated  in  Boston  on 
the  19th  May,  1766,  as  no  event  was  ever  observed  before. 
Daybreak  was  ushered  in  with  music, 
the  beating  of  drums,  and  firing  of 
small-arms.  The  guns  of  the  Castle 
proclaimed  the  joyful  intelligence, 
which  was  taken  up  and  echoed  by 
the  town  batteries.  In  the  evening 
an  obelisk,  which  had  been  erected 
on  the  Common,  was  illuminated 
with  two  hundred  and  eighty  lamps. 
There  was  a  general  illumination. 
Hancock's  mansion  was  brilliant  with  lights,  and  in  front  of 
the  house  a  stage  was  built  from  Avhich  fireworks  were  exhib- 


REPEAL    OBELISK. 


A   TO  UK    KOUND    THE    COMMON. 


359 


ited.  The  Sons  of  Liberty  had  erected  a  similar  stage  in  front 
of  the  Workhouse,  from  which  they  answered  the  display  at 
the  Hancock  House.  Under  this  hospitable  roof  were  enter- 
tained "  the  genteel  part  of  the  Town,"  while  the  crowd  outside 
were  treated  with  a  pipe  of  wine. 

The  obelisk  was  intended  to  be  placed  under  Liberty  Tree, 
but  was  con- 
sumed the  night 
of  the  celebra- 
tion. Next  above 
the  pedestal  were 
allegorical  figures 
on  each  of  the 
sides,  symboliz- 
ing the  condition 
of  the  colony 
from  the  enact- 
ment to  the  re- 
peal of  the  Stamp 
Act.     "We  give  a  America  in  distress. 

copy  of  an  engraving,  by  Paul  Revere,  reproducing  one  of  the 
sides. 

Accident  alone  prevented  the  Common  being  the  scene  of  a 
sanguinary  struggle  between  the  royal  and  American  forces. 
When  Washington  occupied  Dorchester  Heights,  he  confidently 
expected  an  attack  from  Howe,  and  had  prepared  a  counter- 
stroke.  Two  divisions,  under  Putnam,  were  to  attack  the  town. 
Sullivan,  with  one,  was  to  assault  the  works  on  Beacon  Hill, 
Greene,  with  the  other,  was  to  carry  the  post  at  Barton's  Point, 
and  make  his  way  to  a  junction  with  Sullivan.  Greene  was 
well  qualified  for  the  task  assigned  him,  having  been  in  Boston 
two  years  before,  and  seen  the  lines  on  the  Common.  Provi- 
dence arrested  the  purpose  of  Howe,  and  the  town  was  entered 
without  a  shot  being  fired. 

Hancock  has  the  credit  of  first  introducing  music  upon  the 
Common  for  the  benefit  of  the  people.  He  caused  a  band  to 
play  in  front  of  his  dwelling,  paid  for  by  himself.      In  former 


3 GO  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

times  booths  and  stands  fur  the  sale  of  refreshments  were 
erected  along  Paddock's  and  the  Great  Mall,  ultimately  em- 
bracing all  four  sides  of  the  Common. 

Lord  Harris,  who  was  captain  of  the  grenadier  company  of 
the  Fifth  Foot,  Percy's  regiment,  wrote  home,  in  1774,  "  Our 
camp  is  pitched  in  an  exceedingly  pleasant  situation  on  the 
gentle  descent  of  a  large  common,  hitherto  the  property  of  the 
Bostonians,  and  used  for  the  purpose  of  grazing  their  cows, 
which  now,  poor  creatures,  often  attempt  to  force  their  way 
into  their  old  pastures,  where  the  richest  herbage  I  ever  saw 
abounds." 

Lord  Harris  relates  an  instance  of  a  cow  impaling  herself  on 
a  range  of  firelocks  with  the  bayonets  on,  going  off  with  one 
sticking  in  her  side.  Harris's  company  was  at  Lexington.  At 
Bunker  Hill  he  received  a  wound  in  the  head,  falling  senseless 
into  the  arms  of  his  lieutenant,  Lord  Iiawdon. 

Public  executions  occurred  occasionally  on  the  Common  until 
1812,  when  the  park  was  rescued  from  these  legalized  exhibi- 
tions. It  ceased  to  be  a  common  grazing-field  under  the  elder 
Quincy  in  1830,  dangerous  accidents  having  occurred  to  prorn- 
enaders.  If  a  mere  handful  of  settlers  more  than  two  centu- 
ries ago  allotted  fifty  acres  for  the  common  benefit,  a  quarter 
of  a  million   people  can  well  afford  to  preserve  it. 


VALLEY  ACKE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.     361 


CHAPTER    XII. 

VALLEY    ACRE,    THE    BOWLING    GREEN,    AND    WEST    BOSTON. 

Governor  Bowdoin.  —  General  Burgoyne.  —  Boston  Society  in  1782.  —  David 
Hinckley's  Stone  Houses.  —  James  Lloyd.  —  Lafayette.  —  Daniel  Davis.  — 
Admiral  Davis. — Historic  Genealogical  Society. — Valley  Acre. — Uriah 
Cotting.  — Governor  Eustis.  — Anecdote  of  Governor  Brooks.  — Millerite 
Tabernacle.  —  Howard  Athenaeum.  —  Bowling  Green.  —  Old  Boston  Physi- 
cians. —  Charles  Bulfmch.  —  New  Fields.  —  Peter  Chardon.  —  Mrs.  Pel- 
ham.  —  Peter  Pelham.  —  Thomas  Melvill.  —  Dr.  William  Jenks.  —  Captain 
Gooch.  —  West  Church.  —  Leverett  Street  Jail.  —  Poor  Debtors.  —  Alms- 
house. —  Massachusetts  General  Hospital.  —  Medical  College.  —  National 
and  Eagle  Theatres. 

GOVERNOR  JAMES  BOWDOIN  lived  on  Beacon  Street, 
near  the  corner  of  the  street  named  for  him,  the  house 
being  situated  at  some  distance  hack  from  the  street,  with  a  high 
flight  of  stone  steps  leading  up  to  it.  The  family  name  of  the 
governor  was  Baudoin.  Frequent  mention  is  made  in  these 
pages  of  prominent  events  or  institutions  with  which  the  name 
of  Governor  Bowdoin  is  connected.  He  was  chief  magistrate 
of  Massachusetts  from  1785  -  87,  and  Shays's  Rebellion  occurred 
under  his  administration.  It  was  vigorously  suppressed  by 
Bowdoin,  to  whose  aid  the  officers  of  the  old  army  quickly 
rallied.  This  was  the  dark  period  of  our  history.  The  old 
Articles  of  Confederation  were  entirely  inadequate  to  carry  on 
the  government.  No  taxes  could  be  levied  without  the  consent 
of  all  the  States,  and  the  central  government  was  likely  to  fall 
to  pieces  for  want  of  the  means  to  carry  it  on.  Public  and 
private  credit  shared  the  general  wreck. 

At  this  crisis  the  rebellion  of  Shays  broke  out.  General 
Lincoln  commanded  the  State  forces,  with  Generals  Brooks  and 
Cobb  to  support  him.  The  outbreak  was  crushed  with  little 
bloodshed,  and  the  authority  of  the  laws  restored.  Bowdoin's 
popularity  was  impaired  by  this  affair,  and  he  lost  his  election  in 
16 


362  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

1787.  He  was  a  sufferer  from  consumption,  and  finally  suc- 
cumbed to  its  attacks. 

General  Burgoyne  occupied  the  Bowdoin  mansion  in  1775; 
at  the  same  tune  Clinton  resided  in  that  of  Governor  Hancock. 
These  two  chiefs  overlooked  the  forces  on  the  Common,  and  had 
particular  charge  of  the  defences  of  West  Boston.  The  man- 
sion in  after  times  became  the  boarding-house  of  Mrs.  Delano. 

!N~ext,  to  the  eastward,  was  the  residence  of  William  Phil- 
lips, Senior,  — ■  a  fine  old  pre  -  Revolutionary  mansion,  ap- 
proached by  several  flights  of  stone  steps.  It  stood  on  the 
hill,  at  a  higher  elevation  than  the  Bowdoin  or  Sears  houses  on 
either  side  of  it,  the  summit  being  considerably  higher  than  the 
house-tops  now  in  Ashburton  Place.  Some  noble  trees  stand- 
ing on  the  estate  formed  a  landmark  for  approaching  vessels, — 
they  were  cut  down  for  fuel  by  the  British.  This  estate  be- 
longed successively  to  Samuel  Sewall  and  Edward  Bromfitld. 
Freeman  Place  Chapel  was  erected  on  the  site. 

What  the  society  of  Beacon  Street  and  its  vicinity  was  in 
the  last  century  may  be  gathered  from  the  testimony  of  a  keen 
observer  of  that  period. 

Count  Segur  says  that  "  Boston  affords  a  proof  that  democ- 
racy and  luxury  are  not  incompatible,  for  in  no  part  of  the 
United  States  is  so  much  comfort  or  a  more  agreeable  society  to 
be  found.  Europe  does  not  offer,  to  our  admiration,  women 
adorned  with  greater  beauty,  elegance,  education,  or  more  bril- 
liant accomplishments  than  the  ladies  of  Boston,  such  as  Ales- 
dames  Smith,  Tudor,  Jervis,  and  Morton."  M.  de  Chastellux 
also  pays  suitable  acknowledgments  to  the  Boston  ladies,  like 
a  gallant  Frenchman ;  while  both  unite  in  eulogy  of  Adams, 
Hancock,  Dr.  Cooper,  and  other  leading  spirits  it  was  their 
fortune  to  meet. 

The  two  stone  houses  at  the  easterly  corner  of  Beacon  and 
Somerset  Streets,  now,  while  we  write,  undergoing  such  strange 
manipulations,  were  erected  soon  after  the  war  of  1812  by 
David  Hinckley.  They  were,  at  that  time,  the  handsomest 
private  residences  in  Boston,  and  were  occupied  successively  by 
citizens  distinguished  in  financial  or  commercial  pursuits,  until 


VALLEY  ACRE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.     3G3 

they  became  the  Somerset  Club  House.    They  have  lately  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  American  Congregational  Association. 

Connected  with  one  house  is  a  domestic  tragedy,  which  can 
now  affect  no  one  by  repetition.  An  Italian,  named  Perodi, 
who  was  the  French  teacher  of  a  daughter  of  Mr.  Hinckley, 
availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  to  secure  the  young  lady's 
affections.  This,  coming  to  the  knowledge  of  her  friendf, 
resulted  in  an  interview,  at  which  Perodi  advanced  pretensions 
to  rank  and  position  in  the  old  country  by  documents  after- 
wards alleged  to  be  forged.  The  denouement  occasioned  the 
absence  of  Perodi  for  a  time ;  but  he  returned,  and,  ascertain- 
ing that  the  object  of  his  pursuit  was  then  living  in  Somerset 
Place  (Allston  Street),  repaired  thither,  entered  the  house  un- 
perceived,  ascended  the  stairs  to  the  lady's  apartment,  and,  being 
discovered,  stabbed  himself  with  a  poniard. 

Mr.  Hinckley  took  down  an  old  stone  house  situated  on  his 
lot,  considered  the  oldest,  of  stone,  in  Boston.  It  was  built  by 
Rev.  James  Allen  of  the  First  Church,  and  was  occupied  by  his 
descendants  until  about  1806,  one  of  whom,  Jeremiah  Allen, 
was  high  sheriff  of  Suffolk. 

Proceeding  onward  through  Somerset  Street,  modo  pedestri, 
we  pass  the  First  Baptist  Church,  Ashburton  Place,  formerly 
Somerset  Court,  Pemberton  Square,  now  a  mere  crater  of  the 
old  hill,  and  pause  before  a  double  brick  mansion,  with  arched 
doorway,  now  a  hotel  under  the  sign  of  the  "  Somerset  House." 

This  house  was  built  by  Hon.  James  Lloyd  after  Somerset 
Street  was  laid  out,  and  opened  at  the  back  upon  the  gardens 
of  his  father's  estate,  which  extended  up  the  hill  beside  that  of 
Gardiner  Greene.  The  elder  Lloyd  was  a  very  distinguished 
physician  ;  Drs.  Joseph  Warren,  John  Jeffries,  Isaac  Eland,  and 
John  Clarke  were  students  with  him.  He  was  for  some  time 
surgeon  at  the  Castle,  and  had  a  fine  old  residence  on  Tremont 
Eow. 

His  son  was  in  the  United  States  Senate  in  1808-13,  during 
a  most  exciting  period.  A  Bostonian  by  birth,  he  had  been 
active  in  mercantile  affairs  before  engaging  in  political  life. 
Lafayette  became  his  guest  in  this  house  in  1825.    During  this 


364  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

sojourn  the  Marquis  paid  visits  to  Daniel  Webster,  Johu  Ad- 
ams, at  Quincy,  General  Hull,  at  the  residence  of  Mr.  McLellan 
in  Winthrop  Place,  where  he  met  his  old  companions  in  arms, 
Generals  Cobb,  Huntington,  Colonel  Putnam,  and  others.  He 
also  visited  General  Dearborn  and  Hon.  T.  L.  Winthrop,  Mrs. 
Ticknor,  in  Tremont  Street,  Madam  Humphries,  widow  of  his 
old  comrade  General  Humphries,  in  Mt.  Vernon  Street,  and 
attended  a  party  given  in  his  honor  by  Mayor  Quincy. 

A  public  dinner  was  given  to  Lafayette  at  the  Marlborough 
Hotel,  at  which  were  present  the  Secretary  of  War,  Governor, 
and  Lieutenant-Governor,  Hons.  Messrs.  Phillips,  Lloyd,  and 
Webster,  the  veteran  Colonel  McLane,  and  others.  Odes  were 
delivered  on  this  occasion  by  Charles  Sprague  and  Colonel 
Everett.  The  General  went  afterwards  to  the  Boston  Theatre, 
where  he  listened  to  a  complimentary  address  from  Miss  Powell, 
and  witnessed  the  play  of  Charles  II. ,  with  Finn,  Kilner,  etc., 
in  the  cast. 

The  two  buildings  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  one  of 
which  is  used  by  the  Historic  Genealogical  Society,  were  built 
by  Daniel  Davis,  a  lawyer  of  some  prominence  in  the  District 
of  Maine,  who  removed  to  Boston  in  1804.  As  a  barrister,  his 
talents  were  not,  perhaps,  conspicuous  at  a  bar  where  Otis,  Mor- 
ton, and  their  peers  practised,  but  he  had  the  faculty  of  grasp- 
ing the  points  of  a  case  in  the  court-room,  and  constructing  his 
argument  as  the  trial  progressed.  He  was  appointed  Solicitor- 
General  by  Governor  Strong,  —  an  office  created  expressly  for 
him,  as,  in  1767,  it  had  been  for  Jonathan  Sewall.  Perez  Mor- 
ton was  at  the  same  time  Attorney-General. 

Rear- Admiral  Charles  H.  Davis  is  the  son  of  Daniel  Davis, 
and  was  born  in  the  most  southerly  of  the  two  houses.  Admiral 
Davis  is  best  known  as  victor  in  the  engagement  with  the 
rebel  fleet  before  Memphis,  Tenn.,  in  June,  1862.  His  scientific 
labors  in  connection  with  the  naval  service  have  been  of  great 
value.  He  was  with  Dupont  in  the  expedition  which  captured 
Port  Royal,  with  Farragut  below  Yicksburg,  and  in  the  expedi- 
tion up  the  Yazoo.  While  engaged  in  the  coast  survey  he  dis- 
covered several  dangerous  shoals  off  iSTantucket,  in  the  track  of 
vessels  bound  into  Xew  York. 


VALLEY  ACRE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.     365 

The  Xew  England  Historic  Genealogical  Society  occupies  the 
northerly  house,  —  a  handsome  and  well-arranged  building. 
The  local  histories  and  family  genealogies  of  New  England  are 
the  objects  upon  which  the  society  has  been  founded.  For  an 
antiquarian  association  it  is  eminently  progressive,  — a  circum- 
stance that  accounts  for  its  rise  and  progress  among  older  insti- 
tutions of  its  kind.  Its  collections,  open  to  every  student,  are 
made  available  through  the  exertions  and  interest  of  its  officers 
in  every  department  of  historical  research.  The  collections  and 
publications  of  the  society  have  stimulated  the  writing  of  town 
histories,  so  that  what  was  once  a  hopeless  labor  may  be  inves- 
tigated in  a  brief  period  and  with  system. 

The  society  had  its  beginning  in  1844,  with  five  gentlemen 
well  known  in  antiquarian  circles,  namely,  Charles  Ewer, 
Samuel  G.  Drake,  W.  H.  Montague,  J.  Wingate  Thornton,  and 
Lemuel  Shattuck.  Mr.  Ewer,  an  old  Boston  bookseller,  was 
the  first  president.  He  deserves  honorable  mention  as  the  pro- 
jector of  the  South  Cove  improvement  and  the  opening  of 
Avon  Street.     In  1845  the  society  was  incorporated. 

This  elegant  building,  which  was  dedicated  in  1871,  cost 
about  $  40,000,  and  was  entirely  paid  for  by  subscriptions 
among  members  and  others,  raised  chiefly  through  the  instru- 
mentality of  its  president,  Hon.  Marshall  P.  Wilder.  It  con- 
tains 9,000  volumes,  25,000  pamphlets,  and  a  large  collection 
of  manuscripts  and  curiosities,  which,  being  wholly  germane  to 
the  field  in  which  the  society  labors,  form  a  unique  and  valua- 
ble library. 

Valley  Acre  was  a  name  anciently  applied  to  the  valley  lying 
between  Pemberton  and  Beacon  Hills,  now  intersected  by  Som- 
erset and  Bulfinch  Streets,  and  reaching  to  the  low  ground 
below.  The  name  was  retained  until  about  the  present  century, 
or  until  the  disappearance  of  the  hills  upon  either  side  deprived 
it  of  significance. 

Farther  down  Somerset  Street  we  pass  the  substantial,  com- 
fortable-looking residences  of  Messrs.  Webster  and  Cotting,  and 

of  Dr.  Jackson,  whose  name  is  associated  with  the  ether  dis- 
covery.     The  Sultan  sent  a  decoration  to    Dr.  Jackson,  whose 


3G6  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

claims  to  lie  the  discoverer  of  the  great  anaesthetic  were  disputed 
by  Dr.  Morton,  the,  weight  of  public  opinion  favoring  the  latter. 
We  have  in  the  Public  Garden  a  monument  dedicated  to  tbe 
discovery,  whereon  one  may  seek  in  vain  for  the  name  of  him 
who  has  conferred  such  incalculable  benefit  upon  the  human  race. 

It  will  scarcely  be  credited  that  a  discovery  fraught  with  such 
important  consequences  as  was  that  of  applying  ether  in  sur- 
gical operations  could  not  be  announced  in  a  Boston  newspaper 
until  the  discoverer  sent  to  the  office  of  publication  a  paid 
advertisement.  Yet  this  actually  happened  less  than  thirty 
years  ago.  Ether  was  first  administered  by  Dr.  W.  T.  G.  Mor- 
ton, at  his  office,  19  Tremont  Row,  now  Street,  about  opposite 
the  northerly  end  of  the  Museum,  September  30,  1846.  The 
value  of  the  discovery  was  at  first  more  readily  appreciated 
abroad  than  at  home. 

Mr.  Cotting,  notwithstanding  the  gigantic  enterprises  he  con- 
ducted, in  consequence  of  reverses  during  the  war  of  1812,  died 
in  straitened  circumstances.  To  his  genius  Boston  oavcs  the 
inauguration  of  an  era  of  improvement  begun  against  the  tradi- 
tional and  conservative  policy  of  the  citizens  generally.  By 
dint  of  indomitable  energy  and  perseverance  he  succeeded  in 
realizing  most  of  his  designs,  and,  had  he  lived,  would  have 
worthily  continued  what  he  had  so  well  begun.  Besides  the 
distinguished  occupants  of  the  AVebster  mansion  mentioned  was 
William  Ropes,  an  eminent  merchant  connected  with  the  Rus- 
sian trade. 

Dr.  William  Eustis,  who  succeeded  John  Brooks  as  governor 
of  Massachusetts  in  1824,  found  his  residence  in  Roxbury  — 
he  lived  in  the  old  Shirley  mansion  —  too  distant  from  the 
State  House,  during  sessions  of  the  General  Court,  and,  in  the 
winter  of  1825,  took  lodgings  with  Mrs.  Mdes,  the  successor 
of  Mrs.  Carter,  in  Howard  Street.  The  house  stood  where  the 
Howard  Athenreum  is.  Here  he  soon  fell  ill  and  died,  being 
buried  from  this  house  on  the  12th  of  February  with  military 
honors.  The  funeral  services  took  place  at  the  Old  South,  and 
the  remains  were  placed  in  the  Granary  Burying  Ground.  Gov- 
ernor Eustis  studied  medicine  under  Joseph  Warren ;  he  served 


VALLEY  ACHE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.      367 

as  surgeon  in  the  Revolutionary  army,  and,  at  its  conclusion, 
took  a  residence  in  Sudbury  Street,  and  commenced  a  practice. 
He  served  two  terms  as  member  of  Congress,  and  held  other 
offices  under  the  State. 

General  Sumner  relates  of  liim  some  interesting  reminis- 
cences.    He  says  :  — 

"  I  remember  one  occasion  particularly,  when  I  was  invited  to  the 
governor's  table  to  a  dinner  given  in  compliment  to  Lord  Stanley, 
Lord  Wortley,  and  M.  Labouchiere.  The  latter  gentleman,  in  his 
visit  to  Boston,  was  so  impressed  with  the  beauty  and  execution  of 
Allston's  picture  of  Elijah  in  the  Wilderness,  that  he  purchased  it 
of  the  painter  at  the  price  of  a  thousand  dollars. 

"  Brooks  and  Eustis,  two  old  cronies  of  the  Revolution,  about  the 
time  of  Lafayette's  reception,  in  1824,  were  on  unfriendly  terms. 
The  difference  was  caused  by  the  election  of  Brooks  as  President  of 
the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  a  vacancy  having  occurred  while 
Eustis  was  vice-president  and  absent  from  the  country.  The  friends 
of  both  exerted  themselves  to  bring  about  a  reconciliation,  and,  an 
interview  being  arranged,  the  old  friends  did  not  embrace  each 
other  merely  as  old  friends,  but  they  shook  hands  so  heartily,  and 
the  intercourse  was  so  familiar,  —  the  one  calling  the  other  '  John,' 
and  the  other  calling  Eustis  '  Doctor,'  and  sometimes  '  Bill,'  —  that 
they  parted  with  as  friendly  feelings  as  had  existed  between  them  at 
any  period.' " 

Upon  the  spot  where  stands  the  Howard  Athenaeiim  was 
built,  during  the  excitement  of  1843-44,  a  huge  wooden  struc- 
ture, dignified  with  the  name  of  "Tabernacle."  Here  the  dis- 
ciples of  the  prophet  Miller  awaited  the  day  of  ascension,  amid 
scenes  that  beggar  description.  The  interior  was  hung  with 
pictures  representing  the  monsters  of  the  Book  of  Revelation, 
in  winch  the  artist  had  drawn  freely  upon  imagination  to  de- 
pict the  grotesrpte  and  horrible.  Frenzy  seemed  to  hold  pos- 
session of  the  worshippers  at  this  temple;  many  disposed  of 
all  their  worldly  goods,  the  reason  of  others  was  affected,  and 
the  whole  city  was  agitated  almost  beyond  belief,  until  the  day 
fixed  for  the  end  of  all  things  human  came  and  went  like 
other  days.  An  error  of  calculation  had  been  made  by  the 
prophet,  but  his  deluded  congregation  dissolved  silently  and 
ingloriously. 


368  LANDMARKS    OF    BOSTON. 

It  is  related  that  in  building  the   front  wall  on  Howard 

Street  due  regard  was  not  hud  to  safety,  and  thut  it  had  a 
decided  leaning  outwards.  The  mayor's  attention  being  called 
to  the  fact,  he  expostulated  with  the  builders,  who  replied, 
"thut  it  made  but  little  difference  as  the  world  itself  would 
lust  but  u  few  days  ut  the  most."  The  mayor,  Martin  Brim- 
mer, compelled  them  to  rebuild  the  wall  in  question,  observing 
that  they  might  incline  it  so  us  to  fall  inward,  but  not  out- 
wardly. Miller,  the  upostle  of  the  sect,  had  been  u  soldier  of 
1812,  serving  with  distinction  on  the  northern  frontier  with 
the  rank  of  captuin. 

The  Tabernacle  wus  next  leased  for  theatrical  performances, 
and  under  the  hands  of  carpenters  and  painters  underwent  a 
speedy  transformation.  A  new  front,  painted  in  imitation  of 
freestone  was  erected,  and  the  house  received  the  name  of 
the  Howard  Athenaeum. 

The  first  performance  was  on  the  night  of  October  13,  1845, 
when  the  "  School  for  Scundal "  was  given.  Messrs.  Johnson, 
Ayling,  Ford,  and  Brayley  were  the  managers.  Mr.  James  H. 
Hackett,  since  so  famous  for  his  impersonations  of  the  "  fat 
knight,"  made  his  first  appearunce  in  Boston  at  this  house. 
In  February,  1846,  a  few  minutes  after  the  closing  of  the 
theatre,  fire  was  discovered  issuing  from  it,  and  the  theatre- 
tabernacle  was  speedily  consumed. 

The  present  theatre  was  built  in  1846,  and  was  opened  in 
October  of  that  year  under  the  control  of  Mr.  Hackett.  Isaiah 
Rogers  was  the  architect.  At  this  theatre  Mr.  "William  Warren 
made  his  debut  before  a  Boston  audience  as  Sir  Lucius  O'Trig- 
ger,  in  the  "  Rivals."  The  Yiennoise  Children  also  appeared 
at  the  Howard,  creating  un  unexampled  furor.  The  house  is 
further  celebrated  for  the  first  representations  of  Italian  opera 
in  Boston  by  a  company  from  Havana,  who  opened  in  April, 
1847,  with  "  Ernani,"  when  the  golden  notes  of  Fortunata 
Tedesco  first  enraptured  Bostonians.  Blangy,  the  Ravels,  Ma- 
dame Anna  Bishop,  and  other  celebrities  brought  the  theatre 
into  high  repute.  Eliza  Ostinelli  made  her  first  appearunce  on 
the  stapre  ut  the  Howurd  in  "  Lu  Sonnambula." 


VALLEY  ACKE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.     3G9 

This  estate  is  further  noted  as  the  old-time  habitation  of 
Hon.  James  Pitts,  a  counsellor  and  mover  of  the  address  to 
General  Gage. 

Valley  Acre  is  not  more  obsolete  than  the  old  Bowling  Green, 
upon  which  we  have  entered  to  find  it  changed  to  Bowdoin 
Square.  Cambridge  Street  began  in  early  times  at  Sudbury 
Street,  extending  along  the  green,  and  thence  to  the  river. 
What  is  now  the  square  fell  away  in  a  natural  slope  to  the 
Mill  Pond.  The  rest  of  the  quarter  known  as  West  Boston 
was  very  sparsely  peopled.  On  a  small  eminence  in  the  present 
neighborhood  of  the  West  Church  was  a  windmill ;  rope- 
walks  covered  most  of  the  neck  known  as  Barton's  Point,  on 
one  extremity  of  which  were  situated  the  copper-works,  which 
gave  their  name  to  Copper,  now  Brighton  Street.  Across  the 
point  earthworks  were  thrown  up  in  1775.  The  greater  part 
of  the  area  west  of  Bowdoin  Square  was  in  its  primitive  con- 
dition of  fields  or  pastures,  and  so  remote  was  it  considered 
from  the  centre  of  population,  that  the  Province  Hospital  and 
Pest  House  was  located  near  West  Boston  Bridge,  on  what  is 
now  Grove  Street,  from  which  the  point  was  called  "  Pest 
House  Point." 

Eighty  odd  years  ago  there  were  but  three-and-twenty  phy- 
sicians and  surgeons  in  all  Boston.  Besides  the  honored  names 
of  Lloyd,  Eand,  Danforth,  Eustis,  Jarvis,  Hayward,  Homans, 
and  Warren,  there  was  Dr.  Thomas  Bui  finch,  in  Bowdoin 
Square,  father  of  Charles  Bulfmch,  the  distinguished  architect. 

The  impress  of  Mr.  Bullinch's  genius  is  seen  not  only  in  his 
native  city,  but  in  the  Capitol  of  the  nation,  which  was  planned 
by  him  after  the  destruction  of  the  original  by  the  British 
General  Boss.  Mr.  Bulfinch's  early  taste  for  this  branch  of 
art  was  cultivated  by  travel  in  the  Old  World  amid  the  works 
of  Inigo  Jones,  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  and  the  old  masters  of 
the  Continent.  Returning,  he  at  once  applied  himself  to  the 
beautifying  of  his  birthplace.  Before  his  day  there  were  but 
few  public  buildings  that  would  attract  the  notice  of  a  stranger. 
Architectural  beauty  was  but  little  considered,  mere  adaptation 
to  the  purposes  of  the  structure  being  all  that  the  builder 
16*  x 


370  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

attempted.  The  Beacon  Hill  Monument,  the  Franklin  Street 
Crescent,  the  new  State  House,  introduced  a  new  era,  which 
Rogers  and  Willard,  Bryant  and  Billings,  have  perpetuated. 

Of  Mr.  Bulfinch's  public  works  the  State  House  was  indeed 
considered  somewhat  faulty  in  its  proportion  of  length  to 
height;  but  it  is  stated  that  the  original  plan  contemplated 
greater  length  to  the  wings,  —  departed  from  on  economical 
grounds.  Mr.  Bulfinch  was  a  Harvard  man,  graduating  in  the 
same  class  with  Samuel  Dexter  and  Judge  John  Davis.  He  was 
closely  identified  with  the  interests  of  the  town,  serving  on  the 
Board  of  Selectmen  a  period  of  twenty-two  years,  during  nine- 
teen of  which  he  was  Chairman  of  the  Board. 

Besides  other  works  of  which  mention  has  been  made,  Mr. 
Bulfinch  was  architect  of  the  State  Prison,  the  Old  City  Hall, 
the  Cathedral  in  Franklin  Street,  Federal  Street  Church  and 
Theatre,  the  New  South  Church  in  Summer  Street,  the  Mas- 
sachusetts General  Hospital,  Haymarket  Theatre,  and  of  the 
enlargement  of  Faneuil  Hall.  University  Hall,  at  Cambridge, 
and  numerous  private  residences,  attest  his  industry  and  the 
general  estimation  in  which  his  services  were  held. 

The  names  of  the  early  dwellers  in  the  "  New  Fields,"  as  the 
pastures  of  West  Boston  were  called,  have  or  had  their  names 
reproduced  in  Allen,  Buttolph,  Middlecott,  Bulfinch,  Lynde, 
and  Southack  Streets.  Garden  and  Grove  were  descriptive  of 
points  of  rural  beauty  in  Allen's  pasture,  as  was  Centre  Street, 
of  its  equal  division.  Leverett  is  from  the  famous  old  Governor 
John,  and  Staniford  and  Chambers  (part  of  which  was  called 
Wiltshire)  and  Belknap  left  their  patronymics  to  those  avenues. 
Cambridge  Street  terminated  in  a  marsh,  from  which  arose  the 
northwest  slope  of  Centinel  Hill,  the  shore  receding  a  consider- 
able distance  from  the  line  of  Charles  Street.  The  ropewalks 
referred  to  Avere  situated  upon  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Poplar 
Street.  John  Steel  made  bolt-rope,  lines,  and  other  cordage 
there  in  1719. 

Before  the  work  of  demolition  began  in  Bowdoin  Square,  it 
was  the  seat  of  many  elegant  old-time  estates,  with  broad  acres, 
gardens,  and  noble   trees,  of  which  but  a  solitary  specimen 


VALLEY  ACHE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.     371 

here  and  there  is  left.  The  Revere  House,  from  which  Web- 
ster harangued  the  citizens,  is  on  the  grounds  and  residence  of 
Kirk  Boott,  whose  son  Kirk  Boott  was  connected  many  years 
with  the  Lowell  manufactures.  The  hotel  is  named  for  Paul 
Revere,  first  president  of  the  Mechanic  Charitable  Association, 
by  which  it  was  built.  It  has  enjoyed  the  distinction  of  enter- 
taining President  Fillmore,  Jenny  Lind,  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
and  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis  of  Russia. 

On  the  site  of  the  Baptist  Church,  erected  in  1840,  was  the 
dwelling  of  Theodore  Lyman,  Sr.  The  space  in  front  of  the 
church,  once  ornamented  with  trees  and  separated  from  the  street 
by  an  iron  fence,  is  at  present  utilized  by  a  row  of  unsightly 
shops,  between  which  one  must  pass  to  reach  the  church.  The 
Coolidge  and  Parkman  estates  are  covered  with  modern  struc- 
tures, as  is  also  that  of  Lieutenant-Governor  Armstrong,  on 
the  corner  opposite  the  Revere  House.  The  two  stone  houses 
fronting  the  square  were  built  by  Samuel  Parkman,  father  of 
Dr.  George  Parkman.  The  range  of  brick  buildings,  from 
Howard  Street  in  the  direction  of  Bulfinch,  was  the  second 
built  in  the  town,  in  1800,  and  obtained  the  name  of  West 
Row,  as  distinguished  from  South  Row,  near  the  Old  South, 
and  Xorth  Row. in  Anne  Street. 

Peter  Chardon,  another  of  the  Huguenot  descendants,  built 
a  house  on  the  corner  of  the  street  bearing  his  name.  He  was 
a  man  of  polished  manners,  and  an  influential  merchant  of  the 
old  time.  A  school-house  was  erected  in  1804,  at  the  corner  of 
Chardon  and  Hawkins  Streets,  the  eighth  in  the  town.  In 
1800  Hawkins  was  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  Tattle 
Street.  A  portion  of  the  latter  street  was  occupied  by  the 
distil-houses  which  gave  the  name  of  Distil-IIouse  Square  to 
the  neighboring  space. 

Mrs.  Mary  Pelham,  mother  of  Copley  the  painter,  lived  in  a 
house  between  the  estate  of  Governor  Sullivan  (near  the  entrance 
to  Maynard's  stables)  and  Alden  Court,  she  was  the  widow 
of  Richard  Copley,  tobacconist,  and  continued  to  follow  the 
business  after  her  second  marriage.  The  following  advertise- 
ment may  be  found  in  the  Boston  News  Letter  of  July  11, 
1748:  — 


372  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

"  Mrs.  Mary  Pelham  (formerly  the  widow  of  Copley,  on  Long 
Wharf,  tobacconist)  is  removed  to  Lindel's  Row,  against  the  Quaker 
Meeting  House,  near  the  upper  end  of  King  Street,'  Boston,  where 
she  continues  to  sell  the  best  Virginia  Tobacco,  Cut,  Pigtail,  and 
Spun,  of  all  sorts,  by  Wholesale  and  Retail,  at  the  cheapest  rates." 

At  this  time  the  Pelhams  lived  over  the  tobacco  shop. 
Pelham  possessed  a  versatile  genius.  He  kept  a  writing  and 
arithmetic  school  in  1748,  and  was  one  of  the  earliest  teach- 
ers of  dancing  to  the  Bostonians,  having  had  a  school  at  the 
house  of  Philip  Dumaresq,  in  Summer  Street,  as  early  as 
1738. 

He  is  still  more  noted  as  the  earliest  Boston  engraver  we  have 
an  account  of,  having,  in  1727,  engraved  a  portrait  of  Cotton 
Mather.  He  also  engraved  a  number  of  Smibert's  paintings, 
chiefly  of  the  leading  Boston  divines  of  that  day.  Mr.  Pelham 
also  used  the  pencil  with  considerable  skill.* 

Retracing  our  steps  to  Green  Street,  we  find  a  resident  who 
Drought  the  old  and  new  Boston  into  juxtaposition,  until  his 
decease,  in  1832,  at  the  advanced  age  of  eighty-one.  We  allude 
to  Major  Thomas  Melvill,  who  lived  in  an  old  wooden  house 
on  the  south  side  of  Green  Street,  between  Staniford  and  the 
building  formerly  the  Church  of  the  Advent.  Thomas  Mel- 
vill's  father  was  a  cadet  of  the  Scottish  family  of  the  Earls  of 
Melvill  and  Leven.  He  came  to  this  country  quite  young,  and 
at  his  death  left  Thomas,  his  only  son,  an  orphan  at  the  age  of 
ten  years.  The  latter  was  educated  at  New  Jersey  College, 
whence  he  graduated  in  1769  ;  he  took  the  degree  of  A.  M. 
at  Harvard  in  1773.  He  was  a  democrat,  and  a  firm  friend 
of  Samuel  Adams,  of  whom  he  had  a  small  portrait  by  Copley, 
now  at  Harvard.  Herman  Melville,  the  well-known  author,  is 
his  grandson. 

Major  Melvill's  long  and  honorable  connection  with  the 
Boston  Fire  Department  continued  for  forty  years,  and  his 
death  was  finally  caused  by  over-fatigue  at  a  fire  near  his 
house.  This  connection  commenced  as  fireward  in  1779,  in  the 
good  old  times  when  those  officers  carried  staves  tipped  at  the 

*  Proceedings  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society. 


VALLEY  ACRE,  BOWLING  GREEN",  AND  "WEST  BOSTON.     373 

end  with  a  brass  flame,  and  marshalled  the  bystanders  into 
lines  for  passing  buckets  of  water  to  the  scene  of  conflagration. 
One  of  the  town  engines  was  named  Melvill,  in  honor  of  the 
major. 

Major  Melvill  was  a  member  of  the  Cadets,  one  of  the  mem- 
orable Tea-Party,  and  captain  in  Craft's  regiment  of  artillery  in 
the  Revolutionary  War.  He  commanded  a  detachment  sent  to 
Nantasket  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  British  fleet.  In  the 
expedition  into  Rhode  Island,  in  1778,  he  took  the  rank  of 
major.  On  the  organization  of  the  Custom  House,  under  State 
authority,  he  was  appointed  surveyor,  which  office  he  held  until 
the  death  of  James  Lovell,  when  he  was  commissioned  naval 
officer  by  Washington,  remaining  in  office  more  than  "forty  years, 
until  superseded  by  President  Jackson  in  1829. 

The  brick  church  mentioned  in  Green  Street  was  consecrated 
in  1826,  at  which  time  Rev.  Dr.  William  Jenks  was  installed 
as  pastor.  He  was  the  first  to  found  a  Seamen's  Bethel  in  Bos- 
ton ;  and  was  the  author  of  a  valuable  Commentary  on  the  Bible, 
and  many  other  useful  works.  The  Doctor  was  a  valued  mem- 
ber of  a  number  of  learned  societies,  a  pure  and  much-beloved 
member  of  society,  and  died  sincerely  regretted.  His  residence 
was  in  Crescent  Place. 

Gouch  Street,  which  we  think  should  be  spelled  Gooch,  is 
connected  with  an  incident  of  American  history  fitly  perpetu- 
ated by  the  name. 

When  Sir  William  Howe  attacked  Fort  Washington,  on  the 
Hudson,  and  had  summoned  the  garrison  to  surrender,  Wash- 
ington, who  from  the  opposite  shore  had  witnessed  the  assault, 
wished  to  send  a  note  to  Colonel  Magaw,  acquainting  him  that 
if  he  could  hold  out  till  evening,  he  (Washington)  would  en- 
deavor to  bring  off  the  garrison  during  the  night.  The  brave 
Captain  Gooch  offered  to  be  the  bearer  of  the  note.  "  He  ran 
down  to  the  river,  jumped  into  a  small  boat,  pushed  over  the 
river,  landed  under  the  hank,  ran  up  to  the  fort,  and  delivered 
the  message ;  came  out,  ran  and  jumped  over  the  broken  ground, 
dodging  the  Hessians,  some  of  whom  struck  at  him  with  their 
pieces,  and  others  attempted  to  thrust  him  with  their  bayonets  ; 


374 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


WEST   CHURCH. 


escaping  through  them,  he  got  to  his  hoat  and  returned  to  Fort 
Lee."*  .    ' 

Gouch  Street  is  further  noted  for  its  sugar-houses,  of  which 
there  were  seven  in  the  town  in  1794,  each  capable  of  manufac- 
turing 100,000  pounds  annually. 

The  West  Church,  on  Lynde,  fronting  Cambridge  Street,  was 
organized  in  1736.  Ilev.  William 
Hooper,  father  of  a  signer  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  was 
the  first  pastor,  but  after  nine 
years'  service  he  became  attached 
to  the  Church  of  England,  and 
crossed  the  ocean  to  take  orders. 
He  became  afterwards  pastor  of 
Trinity. 

Jonathan  Mayhew,  one  of  the 
greatest  lights  of  the  Boston  pul- 
pit, whose  eloquence  stimulated 
and  upheld  the  cause  of  liberty,  succeeded  Mr.  Hooper.  His 
usefulness  was  terminated  by  his  decease  in  July,  1766,  two 
months  after  the  Stamp  Act  repeal,  on  which  he  preached  a 
memorable  discourse.  Simeon  Howard,  Charles  Lowell,  and 
C.  A.  Bartol  have  been  the  successive  pastors. 

The  frame  of  the  original  Church  was  set  up  in  September, 
1736,  but  it  was  not  until  the  following  spring  that  it  was  com- 
pleted. It  shared  the  fate  of  other  Boston  churches  in  1775, 
being  used  for  barracks,  and  also  suffered  the  loss  of  its  steeple, 
taken  down  by  the  British  to  prevent  signals  being  made  to  the 
Provincials  at  Cambridge.  The  old  house  was  taken  down  and 
the  present  one  built  in  1806.  The  first  Sunday  school  estab- 
lished in  New  England  is  said  to  have  originated  in  the  West 
Church,  in  1812. 

The  charitable  and  corrective  institutions  of  the  town,  after 
their  removal  from  Park,  Beacon,  and  Court  Streets,  were  located 
at  West  Boston.  The  jail  remained  in  Leverett  Street  until 
1851,  when  it  was  removed  to  its  present  location  on  the  north- 

*  Heath's  Memoirs. 


VALLEY  ACRE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST   BOSTON.     375 

erly  extension  of  Charles  Street,  situated  on  land  reclaimed  from 
the  sea.  This  was  not  effected  until  after  twelve  years'  agitation 
had  demonstrated  the  necessity  for  the  change.-  There  were 
two  separate  prisons  within  the  same  enclosure  in  Leverett 
Street,  one  of  which  was  converted  into  a  House  of  Correction 
in  1823,  and  was  so  used  until  some  time  after  the  completion 
of  the  House  of  Correction  at  South  Boston.  The  Leverett 
Street  jail  was  considered  very  secure,  walls  and  floors  1  icing 
composed  of  large  blocks  of  hewn  stone  clamped  together  with 
iron,  while  between  the  courses  loose  cannon-balls  were  laid  in 
cavities  hollowed  out  for  the  purpose.  Such  a  building  neces- 
sarily occupied  some  time  in  construction,  and  upon  its  comple- 
tion, in  1822,  the  old  stone  jail  in  Court  Street  was  taken  down, 
the  materials  going  in  part  to  build  the  gun-house  in  Thacher 
Street. 

In  the  Leverett  Street  jail  debtors  were  confined,  and  even 
when  under  bad  could  not  go  out  of  the  narrow  limits  of  the 
ward  in  which  it  was  situated,  without  forfeiture  of  their  bonds, 
and  subjecting  their  bondsmen  to  payment  of  the  entire  claim 
against  them.  The  law  which  gave  the  creditor  this  power 
over  the  person  of  his  unfortunate  debtor  was  not  repealed 
until  a  comparatively  recent  period,  although  mitigated  in  some 
of  its  more  rigorous  provisions. 

Charles  Dickens  animadverted  severely  upon  our  prison  sys- 
tem, which  he  examined  when  in  this  country,  and  pronounced 
barbarous.  The  "  American  Notes  "  may  have  wounded  our  self- 
love,  but  they  told  some  unpleasant  though  wholesome  truths. 

Among  the  executions  which  have  taken  place  in  the  enclosure 
of  Leverett  Street  jail,  that  of  Professor  "Webster  is  prominent. 
His  demeanor  at  the  gallows  was  dignified  and  self-possessed. 
Before  he  suffered  the  penalty  of  the  law  he  addressed  a  Letter 
to  a  relative  of  the  family  he  had  so  terribly  wronged,  in  which 
he  eloquently  implored  that  his  punishment  might  fully  expiate, 
his  crime. 

The  streets  Barton,  Vernon,  and  Minot  are  of  comparatively 
recent  origin.  They  occupy  the  site  of  the  Almshouse  built  in 
1800,  after  its  demolition  in  Beacon  Street.     At  the  time  of  its 


376  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

erection  here  it  was  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  from 
which  a  wharf,  now  forming  the  site  of  the  old  Lowell  depot, 
extended. 

The  New  Almshouse,  as  it  was  called,  was  a  brick  building 
of  three  stories,  with  a  central  structure,  from  winch  wings  ex- 
tended. This  central  building  was  considerably  higher  than 
the  rest,  and  had  lofty,  arched  windows,  with  a  raised  pediment 
relieved  by  ornamental  work ;  on  either  gable  stood  a  carved 
emblematic  figure.  The  whole  edifice  was  two  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  in  length  by  fifty-six  in  depth.  It  stood  until 
May,  1825,  when  it  was  superseded  by  the  House  of  Industry 
at  South  Boston,  and  the  land  sold  to  private  individuals.  A 
brick  wall,  with  iron  gates,  surrounded  the  Almshouse  enclosure. 
No  building  having  been  erected  to  take  the  place  of  the  Work- 
house, or  Bridewell,  the  inmates  were  obliged  to  be  received 
into  the  Almshouse  ;  but  a  small  brick  building  was  subse- 
quently erected,  adjacent  to  the  latter,  for  a  Bridewell. 

It  has  always  been  the  fate  of  some  who  have  known  better 
days  to  become  dependants  upon  the  public  charity.  One  nota- 
ble instance  is  mentioned  of  the  daughter  of  a  clergyman  of 
the  French  Protestant  Church  having  sought  and  obtained  an 
asylum  in  the  old  Almshouse.  She  continued  to  visit  and  be  re- 
ceived into  the  houses  of  her  former  friends,  who,  with  intuitive 
delicacy,  forebore  to  question  her  on  the  subject  of  her  residence. 

The  tract  bounded  by  Cambridge  Street,  North  Russell  Street, 
and  the  Hospital  grounds  was  once  under  water.  Bridge,  Blos- 
som, and  Vine  Streets  have  all  been  built  since  1800. 

At  the  west  end  of  McLean  Street  (formerly  South  Allen), 
with  the  front  towards  Cambridge  Street,  stands  the  Massachu- 
setts General  Hospital.  It  is  budt  of  Chelmsford  granite,  and 
was  considered  in  1821,  when  completed,  the  finest  public  or 
private  edifice  in  New  England.  It  stands  on  what  was  for- 
merly Prince's  pasture,  four  acres  of  which  constitute  the  Hos- 
pital domain.  In  184G  it  was  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  two 
wings.  Charles  Bulfinch  was  the  architect  of  the  original.  In 
this  hospital  ether  was  first  applied  in  a  surgical  operation  of 
magnitude,  by  request  of  Dr.  J.  C.  Warren. 


VALLEY  ACRE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND   WEST   BOSTON.    377 

Some  of  the  sources  from  which  the  Hospital  drew  its  being 
have  been  adverted  to.  A  bequest  of  $  5,000,  at  the  close  of 
the  last  century,  was  the  beginning.  Nothing  further  was 
effected  until  1811,  when  fifty-six  gentlemen  were  incorporated 
under  the  name  of  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital.     The 


,.  i  \>  i  k  *  i" 


MASSACHUSETTS   GENERAL    HOSPITAL. 


charter  likewise  granted  the  Province  House,  under  condition 
that  $  100,000  should  be  raised  from  other  sources  within  ten 
years.  The  Hospital  Life  Insurance  Company  was  required  to 
pay  tribute  to  its  namesake  by  its  act  of  incorporation. 

No  eleemosynary  institution  in  the  country  ever  accumulated 
the  means  of  carrying  out  its  humane  objects  with  greater 
rapidity.  John  McLean  bequeathed  $  100,000  to  the  Hospital, 
and  $50,000  more  to  be  divided  between  that  institution  and 
Harvard.  By  the  year  1816  the  trustees  were  able  to  purchase 
the  estate  at  Charlestown,  now  Somerville,  and  build  two  brick 
houses,  which  were  ready  for  the  reception  of  the  insane  in 
1818.  This  is  the  asylum  now  known  by  the  name  of  its 
noble  benefactor,  McLean.  His  name  was  justly  conferred 
upon  the  street  without  loss  to  its  ancient  possessor,  as  there 
was  also  North  Allen  Street,  now  known  simply  as  Allen. 

In  Grove  Street  we  have  the  new  location  of  the  Massachu- 
setts Medical  College,  after  its  removal  from  Mason  Street. 
The  building  derives  a  horrible  interest  as  the  scene  of  the 
murder  of  Dr.  Parkman,  the  details  of  which  are  yet   fresh  in 


378  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

the  memories  of  many.  The  unsuspecting  victim  repaired  to 
the  College,  whera  he  had  an  appointment  with  his  murderer, 
from  which  he  never  departed  alive.  No  similar  event  ever 
produced  so  great  a  sensation  in  Boston.  Both  the  parties  were 
of  the  first  standing  in  society.  The  deadly  blow  might  Lave 
been  struck  in  a  moment  of  passion,  but  the  almost  fiendish 
art  with  which  the  remains  were  concealed  and  consumed  was 
fatal  to  Dr.  Webster.  Not  the  least  of  the  touching  episodes 
of  the  trial  was  the  appearance  of  the  daughters  of  the  prisoner 
on  the  witness  stand,  giving  their  evidence  under  the  full  con- 
viction of  their  father's  innocence. 

Besides  the  Howard  Athenaeum  the  West  End  had  still  an- 
other theatre  within  its  limits.  In  1831  a  small  wooden  build- 
ing was  erected  by  Messrs.  W.  and  T.  L.  Stewart  on  the  old 
Mill  Pond,  fronting  on  Traverse  Street.  This  was  designed  for 
equestrian  performances,  and  was  called  the  American  Amphi- 
theatre. Mr.  William  Pelby,  formerly  of  the  Tremont,  became 
the  lessee,  and  remodelled  the  interior  so  as  to  adapt  it  to  dra- 
matic performances,  opening  it  on  the  3d  of  July,  under  the 
name  of  the  Warren  Theatre.  The  enterprise  proving  success- 
ful, Mr.  Pelby  was  enabled  to  budd  a  new  house  in  the  summer 
of  1836,  which  was  inaugurated  on  the  15th  of  August  as  the 
National  Theatre.  At  this  house  Miss  Jean  Margaret  Davenport 
made  her  first  appearance  before  a  Boston  audience,  as  did  also 
Julia  Dean,  a  favorite  Western  actress.  In  April,  1852,  the 
theatre  was  destroyed  by  fire,  but  was  rebuilt  and  reopened  in 
November  of  the  same  year  by  Mr.  Leonard. 

There  was  a  little  theatre  erected  in  1841,  at  the  corner  of 
Haverhill  and  Traverse  Streets,  opened  by  Mr.  Wyzeman  Mar- 
shall ttnder  the  name  of  the  Eagle  Theatre.  Mr.  W.  H.  Smith 
officiated  a  short  time  here  as  manager,  but  the  concern  proving 
a  serious  rival  to  the  National,  Mr.  Pelby  obtained  an  interest, 
and  closed  the  house  in  a  manner  not  altogether  creditable  to 
him.* 

Several  of  the  companies  of  the  regiment  of  Massachusetts  vol- 
unteers, raised  for  service  in  the  Mexican  war,  were  quartered  at 

*  Clapp's  Boston  Stage. 


VALLEY  ACRE,  BOWLING  GREEN,  AND  WEST  BOSTON.     379 

the  West  End.  Companies  "  A  "  and  "  L>  "  had  quarters  in  Pitts 
Street.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Abbott's  company  was  located  in 
the  old  wooden  building  on  the  east  side  of  Leverett  Street, 
which  was  afterwards  used  as  a  police  station.  Captain  Edward 
Webster's  company  was  enlisted  in  the  famous  building  on  the 
corner  of  Court  and  Tremont  Streets,  and  in  the  office  of  his 
father,  Daniel  Webster.  Captain  Webster  afterwards  became 
major  of  the  regiment,  and  died  in  Mexico.  Isaac  Hull  Wright 
was  the  colonel. 

The  Mexican  war  was  unpopular  in  Boston.  The  regiment 
was  neglected  by  the  State  officials,  and  greeted  with  oppro- 
brious epithets,  and  even  pelted  with  mud,  when  it  paraded  in 
the  streets.  Meetings  were  called  in  Faneuil  Hall,  at  which 
the  war  and  the  soldiers  were  denounced  by  the  antislavery 
leaders,  Theodore  Parker,  Wendell  Phillips,  W.  Lloyd  Garrison, 
and  others.  As  soon  as  the  regiment  was  mustered  into  the 
United  States  service,  the  State  refused  to  have  anything  fur- 
ther to  do  with  it,  and  after  its  return  home  with  half  its 
original  number,  it  was  severely  characterized  by  the  executive. 

General  Winfield  Scott  gave  the  regiment  a  flag  of  honor, 
paid  fur  out  of  the  ransom  of  the  city  of  Mexico.  This  was 
offered  to,  but  rejected  by,  the  State,  and  is  now  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  National  Lancers.  This  flag  represents  California, 
with  its  untold  millions;  it  should  be  reclaimed  and  placed  in 
the  State  House.  The  men  died  off  rapidly  after  their  return 
home,  and  not  many  are  left.  They  were  in  a  great  measure  of 
the  worst  description,  and  desertions  were  numerous.  The  uni- 
form was  a  cadet  gray,  witli  a  short  coatee  ami  Hat  cap,  which 
excited  the  ridicule  of  the  dandy  warriors  of  the  State  militia, 
but  has  been  worn  by  Blucher,  the  royal  princes,  and  victorious 
hosts  of  Prussia. 


380 


LAXDMAKKS    OF   BOSTOX. 


CHAPTEE   XIII. 

FROM    CHURCH    GREEN    TO    LIBERTY    TREE. 

Church  Green.  —  Xew  South  Church.  —  Dr.  Kirkland.  —  American  Headquar- 
ters. —  General  Heath.  —  Anecdote  of  General  Gates.  —  Jerome  Bonaparte. 

—  Sir  William  Pepperell.  —  Xathaniel  Bowditch.  —  George  Bancroft.  — 
Trinity  Church.  —  Seven  Star  Inn  and  Lane.  —  Peter  Faneuil.  —  Governor 
Sullivan. — Small-Pox  Parties.  —  Duke  of  Kent. — Sir  Edmund  Andros. 

—  Lamb  Tavern.  —  White  Horse  Tavern.  —  Colonel  Daniel  Messinger.  — 
Lion  Tavern.  —  Handel  and  Haydn  Society.  —  Lion  Theatre.  —  Curious 
Statement  about  Rats. 


THE  name  of  Church  Green  was  applied  very  early  to  the 
vacant  space  lying  at  the  intersection  of  Bedford  and  Sum- 
mer Streets,  from  which  we  may  infer  that  it  was  looked  upon 
as  a  proper  site  for  a  meeting-house  by  the  earliest  settlers  of 
Boston.  The  land  was  granted  by  the  town  to  a  number  of 
petitioners  in  1715,  of  whom  Samuel  Adams,  father  of  the 
patriot,  was  one. 

There  was  not  a  more  beautiful  site  for  a  church  in  Boston. 
The  ground  was  high  and  level, 
the  old  church  having  an  unob- 
structed outlook  over  the  harbor. 
Samuel  Checkley  was  the  first 
pastor,  ordained  in  1718.  Our 
engraving  represents  the  church  as 
rebudt  in  1814.  The  originators 
of  the  movement  for  the  new 
church  held  their  first  meetings  at 
the  old  Bull  Tavern,  at  the  c<  irner . 
of  Summer  and  Sea  Streets,  of 
which  we  find  mention  in  1708. 

The  church   spire  towered  to  a 
height  of  one  hundred  and  ninety 


«rir:8Jn[-;3 


NEW   SOUTH    CHURCH. 


FROM    CHURCH    GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE.  381 

feet  from  the  foundation.  The  building  was  of  Chelmsford 
granite,  and  designed  by  Bulfincli ;  a  portico  projected  from 
the  front,  supported  by  four  Doric  columns.  In  1868  it  was 
demolished,  and  the  temples  of  traffic  have  arisen  in  its  stead. 

Fifty  years  gone  by  Summer  Street  was,  beyond  dispute,  the 
most  beautiful  avenue  in  Boston.  Magnificent  trees  then  skirted 
its  entire  length,  overarching  the  driveway  with  interlacing 
branches,  so  that  you  walked  or  rode  as  within  a  grove  in  a 
light  softened  by  the  leafy  screen,  and  over  the  shadows  of  the 
big  elms  lying  across  the  pavement.  The  palaces  of  trade  now 
rear  their  splendid  fronts  where  stood  the  gardens  or  mansions 
of  the  old  merchants  or  statesmen  of  Boston. 

The  old  wooden  house  —  quite  respectable  for  its  day  —  in 
which  Dr.  John  T.  Kirkland  resided  was  at  the  corner  of  Sum- 
mer and  Lincoln  Streets.  He  was  the  son  of  the  celebrated 
Indian  missionary,  Samuel  Kirkland,  founder  of  Hamilton  Col- 
lege, who  was  instrumental  in  attaching  the  Oneidas  to  the 
American  cause  during  the  Revolution,  and  acted  as  chaplain 
to  our  forces  under  General  Sullivan  in  1799.  The  younger 
Dr.  Kirkland,  who  possessed  abilities  of  a  high  order,  became, 
in  1810,  president  of  Harvard.  Another  eminent  clergyman, 
Jeremy  Belknap,  was  also  a  resident  of  Summer  Street. 

Bedford  Street  was  in  former  times  known  as  Pond  Lane, 
from  the  Town  Watering-Place  situated  on  the  east  side.  A 
line  drawn  due  south  from  Hawley  Street  would  pass  through 
the  pond.  Blind  Lane  was  a  name  applied  to  the  lower  part 
of  the  street  in  1800.  Summer  Street  was  called  "  Yc  Mylne 
Street,"  from  its  conducting  towards  Windmill  Point,  where  a 
mill  was  erected,  it  appears,  as  early  as  1G3G,  the  highway  to 
it  being  ordered  laid  out  in  1G44. 

As  late  as  1815  there  was  a  pasture  of  two  acres  in  Summer 
Street,  and  the  tinkling  of  cow-bells  was  by  no  means  an  un- 
usual sound  there.  The  fine  old  estates  of  the  Geyers,  Collins, 
Eussells,  Barrells,  Lydes,  Prebles,  etc.  were  covered  with  or- 
chards and  gardens,  and  these  hospitable  residents  could  set 
before  their  guests  cider  of  their  own  manufacture,  or  butter 
from  their  own  dairies.     Chauncy  Place,  named  for  the  distin- 


ott'J,  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

guished  pastor  of  the  First  Church,  was  laid  out  in  1807,  over 
a  part  of  the  estate  of  Ebenezer  Preble,  brother,  of  CommodoiG 
Edward,  a  leading  merchant  of  Boston,  and  at  one  time  a 
partner  of  William  Gray.  Mr.  Preble's  house  was  on  the  lower 
corner  of  what  is  now  Chauncy  Street.  The  estate  of  the 
First  Church  adjoined  on  the  west. 

We  have  noticed  the  residence  in  this  street  of  Daniel  Web- 
ster, which  the  stranger  may  find  without  trouble,  and  will  not 
pass  without  rendering  silent  homage  to  the  matchless  abilities 
of  that  great  man.  Mr.  Webster  cared  little  for  money,  and 
was  sometimes  pressed  by  his  creditors.  On  one  occasion  he 
was  dunned  by  a  needy  tradesman  for  a  trifling  sum,  and,  after 
emptying  his  pockets  in  ^ain,  he  bade  his  visitor  wait  until  he 
could  call  on  a  friend  near  at  hand  for  the  money.  The  loan 
was  no  sooner  asked  than  obtained ;  but  at  his  own  door  Mr. 
Webster  was  met  by  an  application  from  another  friend  for  a 
deserving  charity,  to  whom  he  gave  the  money  he  had  bor- 
rowed, and  returned  empty-handed  to  his  creditor. 

When  Mr.  Webster  received  Lafayette  after  the  ceremonies 
at  Bunker  Hill,  to  give  eclat  to  the  occasion  and  accommodate 
the  numerous  and  distinguished  company,  a  door  was  made  con- 
necting with  the  adjoining  house  of  Mr.  Israel  Thorndike. 

The  bullet  which  the  Marquis  received  in  his  leg  at  Brandy- 
wine  was  the  occasion  of  a  graceful  compliment  by  President  John 
Quincy  Adams.  A  new  frigate  was  ready  to  launch  at  Washing- 
ton, in  which  it  was  intended  Lafayette  should  take  passage  for 
France,  and,  when  all  was  ready,  the  President,  who  had  kept  his 
purpose  a  secret  from  every  one,  himself  christened  her  the  Bran- 
dywine,  to  the  surprise  of  Commodore  Tingey  and  the  naval 
constructor,  who  supposed  she  would  be  called  the  Susquehanna. 

The  impression  has  obtained  that  Boston  ceased  to  be  a  gar- 
risoned town  after  the  evacuation  by  Sir  William  Howe,  and 
the  departure  of  the  great  body  of  our  own  troops  for  Xew 
York.  This  is  very  far  from  being  the  case.  The  command 
of  the  town  was  first  assumed  by  Putnam,  was  transferred  to 
Greene,  and  finally  remained  with  General  Ward,  whose  age 
and  infirmity  prevented  his  taking  the  field  actively.      The 


FROM    CHURCH    GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE.  383 

camps  at  Cambridge  and  Roxbury  continued  to  be  the  rendez- 
vous of  the  new  levies.  The  town  of  Boston  was  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Eastern  District,  with  a  regular  garrison.  James 
Urquhart,  the  British  town-major,  was  succeeded  by  an  American 
officer,  Major  Swasey,  with  the  same  title.  Colonel  Keith  was 
deputy  adjutant-general  under  Heath. 

General  Ward  was  relieved  by  General  Heath  in  1777,  and 
retired  from  the  army.  General  Heath  established  his  head- 
quarters at  the  mansion-house  of  Hon.  Thomas  Russell,  which 
stood  some  distance  back  from  Summer  Street,  about  where 
Otis  Street  now  is.  Here  the  General  entertained  D'Estaing, 
Pulaski,  Silas  Deane,  Burgoyne,  Phillips,  and  Riedesel.  It  was 
the  fortune  of  General  Heath  to  command  in  Boston  while  the 
prisoners  from  Saratoga  and  BenningfOn  remained  at  Cambridge, 
and  he  was  soon  engaged  in  a  petit  guerre  with  Burgoyne.  Soon 
after  the  arrival  of  the  convention  troops,  Phillips  proposed  to 
General  Heath  that  all  orders  affecting  the  prisoners  should  be 
transmitted  through  their  own  generals,  but  the  American  com- 
mander was  not  disposed  to  thus  delegate  his  authority. 

Heath  was  succeeded  by  General  Gates  in  October,  1778,  who 
arrived  with  his  wife  and  suite  on  the  6th  of  that  month  and 
assumed  the  command.  Gates,  like  Washington  and  Gage,  had 
served  in  the  campaign  of  Braddock,  where  he  was  severely 
wounded,  and  brought  off  the  field  by  a  soldier  for  whom  he 
.ever  after  entertained  an  affectionate  regard.  Gates  was  then  a 
captain  in  the  British  army,  and  his  preserver  was  a  private  in 
the  royal  artillery,  named  Penfold.  The  old  soldier,  having 
been  invalided,  desired  to  remain  in  America,  and  applied  to 
Gates  for  his  advice.  We  give  a  part  of  the  reply,  which  does 
honor  to  the  heart  and  memory  of  Gates  :  — 

"Come  and  rest  your  firelock  in  my  chimney-corner,  and  partake 
with  me  ;  while  I  have,  my  savior  Penfold  shall  not  want ;  and  it 
is  my  wish,  as  well  as  Mrs.  Gates's,  to  see  you  spend  the  evening 
of  your  life  comfortably.  Mrs.  Gates  desires  to  be  affectionately 
remembered  to  you." 

Boston  can  thus  boast  of  having  been  commanded  by  the 
ablest  generals  on  either  side  of  the  Revolutionary  struggle. 


384  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

General  Gates  was  said  to  have  lived  at  one  time  with  his  father 
in  the  service  of  Charles,  Duke  of  Bolton.  It  was  his  fortune 
to  have  achieved  the  greatest  victory  of  the  Eevolution  at  Sara- 
toga, and  sustained  the  most  complete  defeat  at  Camden,  of  any 
officer  commanding  in  that  war. 

The  Eussell  mansion  was  afterwards  occupied  as  a  public 
house  by  Leon  Chappotin.  Jerome  Bonaparte,  after  his  mar- 
riage with  Miss  Patterson  at  Baltimore,  made  a  visit  to  Boston, 
and  lodged  here  for  a  time.  It  will  be  recollected  that  this 
marriage  was  never  sanctioned  by  the  Emperor.  Otis  Place, 
now  .Street,  was  laid  out  through  the  estate  of  Sir  "William 
Peppered. 

The  Sir  William  Pepperell  of  our  notice  was  the  grandson 
of  the  captor  of  Louisburg,  and  son  of  Colonel  Nathaniel  Spar- 
hawk.  By  the  tenor  of  his  grandfather's  will,  which  made  him 
the  residuary  legatee  of  the  baronet's  possessions,  he  was  re- 
quired to  change  his  name  to  Pepperell.  This  was  done  by  an 
act  of  the  Massachusetts  Legislature.  The  baronetcy  became 
extinct  with  the  decease  of  the  elder  Sir  William,  and  was  re- 
created by  the  king  for  the  benefit  of  his  grandson  in  1774. 
The  younger  Sir  William  was  a  stanch  friend  of  the  mother 
country,  and  was  one  of  the  King's  Mandamus  Councillors  in 
1774.  He  left  America  with  the  Eoyalists  in  1775,  and  his 
large  estates  in  Boston  and  in  Maine  were  confiscated. 

At  No.  8  Otis  Place  lived  Nathaniel  Bowditch,  so  long 
Actuary  of  the  Massachusetts  Hospital  Life  Insurance  Company 
in  Boston.  Born  in  poverty,  after  serving  an  apprenticeship  to 
a  ship-chandler  untd  he  was  twenty-one,  and  following  the  sea 
for  a  number  of  years,  he  published  in  1800,  before  he  was 
thirty,  his  work  on  navigation.  His  commentary  on  the  cele- 
brated Mecanique  Celeste  of  Laplace  established  his  fame  as 
one  of  the  leading  scientific  minds  of  either  the  Old  or  New 
World.  His  son,  Nathaniel  Ingersoll,  had  improved  an  anti- 
quarian taste  by  exhaustive  researches  among  the  records  of  the 
town  and  colony,  and  the  articles  from  his  pen  under  the  sig- 
nature of  "  Gleaner  "  were  of  the  greatest  interest  to  all  students 
of  our  local  history.     His  contemporary  "  Sigma  "  (L.  M.  Sar- 


FROM    CHURCH    GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE.  385 

gent),  wielded  in  the  same  cause  a  brilliant  and  caustic  pen, 
investing  the  characters  of  the  dead  past  with  life  and  action. 

At  the  corner  of  Winthrop  and  Otis  Place  was  the  residence 
of  George  Bancroft  in  18-40,  at  which  time  he  was  Collector  of 
the  port  of  Boston.  His  History  of  the  United  States,  begun 
in  1834  and  just  completed,  is  the  most  extensive  work  on 
that  subject  now  extant.  Mr.  Bancroft  entered  the  cabinet  of 
President  Polk  as  Secretary  of  the  Navy  in  1845,  establishing, 
while  at  the  head  of  his  bureau,  the  Naval  Academy  at  Anna- 
polis.     He  is  now  our  minister  at  Berlin. 

The  estate  at  the  southwest  corner  of  Summer  and  Chaun- 
cy  Streets  was  the  property  of  the  First  Church,  having  been 
conveyed  to  it  in  1G80.  The  greater  part  of  the  original  place 
was  laid  out  over  the  church  estate  to  gain  access  to  the  church, 
which  was  placed  upon  that  part  of  the  ground  in  the  rear  of 
Summer  Street  formerly  the  garden  of  the  parsonage.  Pour 
brick  dwellings  were  built  on  the  Summer  Street  front  by 
Benjamin  Joy  in  1808.  Before  this  took  place  the  ground  was 
occupied  by  the  parsonage.  One  of  the  pastors  who  filled  the 
pulpit  after  the  removal  to  this  locality  was  AVilliam  Emerson, 
father  of  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  the  essayist  and  poet.  His 
ministrations  continued  from  1799  to  1811,  and  he  had  the 
distinction  of  preaching  the  first  sermon  here. 

After  sixty  years'  service,  the  house  in  Chauncy  Place  was 
deserted  by  the  society  for  the  new  and  elegant  temple  at  the 
corner  of  Marlborough  and  Berkeley  Streets,  which  was  occu- 
pied December,  1868.  An  enduring  relic  of  the  "I  HI  Brick  " 
church  remains  in  a  slab  of  slate  taken  from  beneath  a  window 
in  the  second  story,  south  side,  on  which  is  inscribed,  — 

"Burned  to  ashes  October  ?>,  1711. 
Rebuilding  June  25th.  1712.     .July  20,  1713." 

The  Post-Office  occupied  this  corner  in  1859,  at  which  lime 
Nahum  Capen  was  postmaster;  but  remained  only  until  the 
next  year,  the  site  not  being  considered  an  eligible  one. 

By  the  year  1728  King's  Chapel  could  not  accommodate  its 
numerous  parishioners  at  the  south  part  of  the  town,  and  steps 
were  taken  to  build  an  Episcopal  church  at  the  corner  of  Saw- 

17  Y 


386 


LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 


ley  and  Slimmer  Streets.  The  corner-stone  was  not  laid,  Low- 
ever,  until  1734,  when  Mr.  Commissary  Price  of  King's  Chapel 
officiated  at  this  ceremony.  The  next  year  it  was  opened 
for  worship.  Among  the  first  officers  we  find  the  familiar 
names  of  Charles  Apthorp,  Benjamin  Faneuil,  Philip  Dumaresq, 
William  Coffin,  and  Thomas  Aston.  Bev.  Addington  Daven- 
port, a  brother-in-law  of  Peter  Faneud,  who  had  been  an 
assistant  at  King's  Chapel  in  1737,  was  the  first  rector  of 
Trinity. 

The  first  building  was  of  wood.  It  was  ninety  feet  long,  and 
sixty  broad,  without  any  external  adornment.     It  had  neither 

tower  nor  stee- 
ple, nor  Avin- 
dows  in  the  low- 
er story  of  the 
front.  There 
were  three  en- 
trances in  front 
unprotected  by 
porches.  The 
interior  was 
composed  of  an 
arch  resting  up- 
on Corinthian 
pillars      with 

handsomely  carved  and  gilded  capitals.  In  the  chancel  were 
some  paintings,  considered  very  beautiful  in  their  day.  Taken 
altogether,  Trinity  might  boast  the  handsomest  interior  of 
any  church  in  Boston  of  its  time.  In  1828  it  was  supplanted 
by  the  granite  edifice  seen  in  our  view  on  the  opposite  page, 
Eev.  John  S.  J.  Gardiner  laying  the  corner-stone.  Trinity,  like 
the  other  Episcopal  churches,  has  tombs  underneath  it. 

We  do  not  learn  that  Trinity  received  any  special  marks  of 
royal  favor,  such  as  were  shown  to  its  predecessors,  King's 
Chapel  and  Christ  Church.  To  the  former  the  king  and  queen 
("William  and  Mary)  gave,  besides  the  communion  plate,  a  pul- 
pit-cloth, a  cushion,  and  a  painting  which  reached  from  the  top 


OLD   TRINITY    CHURCH. 


FROM    CHURCH   GREEN    TO    LIBERTY   TREE. 


387 


to  the  bottom  of  the  east  end  of  the  church,  containing  the 
Decalogue,  the  Lord's  Prayer,  and  the  Apostles'  Creed.  But 
Governor  Shirley,  who  had  so  liberally  aided  the  Chapel,  gave 
Trinity  a  service  for  communion,  table-cloths,  and  books.  Peter 
Paneuil  had  in  1741  offered  £  100  towards  an  organ,  but  one 
was  not  procured  until  1744. 

A\  Tien  General  Washington  was  in  Boston  in  1789  he  passed 
the  Sabbath  here,  and  went  to  bear 
Dr.  (afterwards  Bishop)  Parker  in  the 
forenoon,  and  to  Brattle  Street  in  the 
afternoon,  where  he  sat  in  Governor 
Bowdoin's  pew. 

Curiously  enough,  Trinity  Church 
occupies  the  site  of  the  old  "  Pleiades  " 
or  "  Seven  Star  Inn,"  from  which  Sum- 
mer Street  took  its  ancient  name  of  %  iWW 
Seven  Star  Lane.  There  Avas  another 
sign  of  the  same  name  displayed  by 
"William  Whitwell,  a  tradesman  near  the  drawbridge,  in  17G3. 

Peter  Faneuil  occupied  pew  No.  40  in  Old  Trinity.     We 
may  easily  picture  him  descending  from  his  chariot  on  a  Sun- 


TRINITY   CHURCH    IN    1S72. 


day  morning  while  his  negro  coachman  assists  him  to  alight. 

We  doubt  not  the  heads  of  the  young  Boston  belles  were 

turned  towards  the  wealthy  bachelor  as  he  advanced   up   the 

aisle  to  his  devotions.      His  good  brother  Davenport  no  doubt 

enjoyed  those  perquisites  so  pleasantly    referred  to  by   Pope 

when  he  says,  — 

"He  that  liatli  these  may  i>ass  liis  life. 
Drink  with  the  'squire,  and  kiss  his  wife  ; 
On  Sundays  preach,  ami  rat  his  till  ; 
And  fast  on  Fridays,  —if  he  will  j 


388  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Toast  Church  and  Queen,  explain  the  news, 
Talk  with  church -wardens  about  pews, 
Pray  heartily  for  some  new  gift, 
And  shake  his  head  at  Dr.  Swift." 

The  corner  of  Hawley  Street,  next  below  Trinity,  will  be 
remembered  as  the  estate  of  Governor  James  .Sullivan  and 
of  Lieutenant-Governor  Gray. 

Governor  Sullivan  was  the  brother  of  the  Revolutionary 
general;  was  elected  governor  of  Massachusetts  in  1807,  and 
re-elected  in  1808.  He  had  been  a  member  of  the  Massachu- 
setts Provincial  Congress ;  Judge  of  the  Superior  Court ;  and 
Delegate  to  Congress  in  1784,  from  the  District  of  Maine  where 
he  then  resided.  Mr.  Sullivan  was  also  a  member  of  the  State 
Constitutional  Convention,  and  one  of  the  Commissioners  ap- 
pointed by  Washington  to  settle  the  boundary  between  the 
United  States  and  British  Provinces.  William  Sullivan,  son 
of  the  governor,  was  a  distinguished  lawyer  and  scholar.  He 
was  a  stanch  Federalist,  and  wrote  an  able  vindication  of  that 
party. 

When  Governor  Sullivan  was  before  the  people  as  a  candi- 
date, it  is  said  a  caricature  appeared  in  the  Centinel  reflecting 
severely  upon  his  integrity.  His  son,  Eichard  Sullivan,  way- 
laid Benjamin  Russell,  the  editor,  in  the  vicinity  of  Scollay's 
Buildings,  as  he  was  proceeding  to  the  office  from  his  residence 
in  Pinckney  Street,  and  after  demanding  of  Russell  if  he  was 
responsible  fur  all  that  appeared  in  his  paper,  and  receiving  an 
affirmative  answer,  struck  him  a  blow  across  the  face  with  his 
cane,  leaving  Russell  staggered  by  the  violence  and  suddenness 
of  the  attack. 

The  elder  Levi  Lincoln  was  lieutenant-governor  with  Gov- 
ernor Sullivan,  and  on  his  decease  became  acting  governor. 
His  son  Levi  was  lieutenant-governor  in  1823,  and  governor 
in  1825  —  34.  Another  son,  Enoch,  was  governor  of  Maine  in 
1827-29.  On  the  decease  of  their  mother,  Martha  Lincoln, 
her  remains  were  followed  to  the  grave  by  her  two  sons,  then 
chief  magistrates  of  two  States. 

Joseph  Barrel!,  whom  we  have  mentioned  in  our  view  of 
Franklin  Street,  was  one  of  the  foremost  of  the  old  merchants 


FROM   CHURCH   GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE.  389 

of  Boston.  His  name  stands  first  on  the  list  of  directors  of 
the  Old  United  States  Bank,  in  company  with  John  Codman, 
Caleb  Davis,  Christopher  Gore,  John  Coffin  Jones,  John  Low- 
ell, Theodore  Lyman,  Jonathan  Mason,  Jr.,  Joseph  Russell,  Jr., 
David  Sears,  Israel  Thorndike,  and  William  Wetmore. 

It  is  related  that  a  person  carried  to  a  bank  in  Pennsylvania 
some  bills  which  that  bank  had  issued,  and  demanded  gold  and 
silver  for  them.  He  was  answered  that  the  bank  did  not  pay 
gold  or  silver.  "  Give  me,  then,"  said  he,  "  bills  of  the  United 
States  Bank."  "  We  have  none."  "  Then  give  me  bills  on 
any  bank  in  New  England."  "  We  have  none  of  these."  "  Pay 
me,  then,  in  the  best  counterfeit  bills  you  have." 

The  reader  will  perhaps  experience  some  incredulity  when  he 
is  told  that,  before  the  discovery  of  the  present  mode  of  vaccina- 
tion, small-pox  parties  were  among  the  fashionable  gatherings 
of  Old  Boston.  The  guests  were  inoculated,  and  withdrew  for 
a  time  from  the  world.  An  invitation  of  this  kind  appears  in 
the  following  extract  from  a  letter  of  Joseph  Barrell,  dated 
July  8,  1776:  — 

"  Mr.  Storer  has  invited  Mrs.  Martin  to  take  the  small-pox  at  his 
house  :  if  Mrs.  Wentworth  desires  to  get  rid  of  her  tears  in  the  same 
way,  we  will  accommodate  her  in  the  best  way  we  can.  I  Ye  several 
friends  that  I  Ye  invited,  and  none  of  them  will  be  more  welcome 
than  Mrs.  W."  * 

Joseph  Barrell  occupied  store  No.  3,  south  side  of  the  Town 
Dock,  where  he  advertised  brown  sugar,  double  and  treble  re- 
fined, looking-glasses,  wine,  oil,  etc. 

He  was  the  owner  of  the  triangular  estate  at  the  junction  of 
Washington  with  Brattle  Street,  of  which  he  gave  a  portion  to 
the  town  for  the  widening  of  the  latter. 

The  fine  granite  structure  of  the  Messrs.  Hovey  stands  on 
the  site  of  the  old-time  mansion  of  the  Vassalls,  erected  by 
Leonard  Vassall,  whose  son  William  built  the  house  on  Pem- 
berton  Hill,  afterwards  (lie  residence  of  Gardiner  Greene, 
Thomas  Hubbard,  who  preceded  Hancock  as  Treasurer  of  Har- 
vard College,  and  Frederick  Geyer,  who  left  Boston  with  th& 

*  Brewster's  Portsmouth. 


390  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

adherents  of  the  crown,  were  subsequent  proprietors ;  as  the 
estate  of  the  latter  it  was  confiscated,  but  was  'subsequently 
restored. 

When  the  Duke  of  Kent,  son  of  George  III.,  and  father  of 
Victoria,  the  reigning  Queen  of  England,  was  in  Boston,  he  was 
present  at  the  wedding  of  Nancy  W.  Geyer,  who  married  Rufus 
G.  Amory.  Prince  Edward,  as  he  was  then  styled,  did  not  in- 
cline to  visit  Lieutenant-Governor  Samuel  Adams. 

South  of  the  A'assall-Geyer  property  was  the  estate  of  John 
Eowe,  whose  house — subsequently  that  of  Judge  Prescott,  father 
of  the  historian  —  stood  upon  the  spot  lately  occupied  by  Dr. 
Bobbins's  Church  in  Bedford  Street,  opposite  the  English  High 
and  Latin  Schools.  A  wharf  and  street  once  handed  down  the 
name  of  Eowe,  —  as  true  a  friend  to  his  country  as  any  whose 
names  have  reached  a  greater  renown,  —  but  the  wharf  alone 
retains  this  title.  Eowe  Street,  which  was  given  to  and  accepted 
by  the  city  on  condition  that  it  should  be  so  called,  has  be- 
come since  1856  absorbed  in  Chauncey  Street,  that  part  lying 
between  Bedford  and  Summer  Streets  having  been  previous  to 
this  divided  by  an  iron  fence,  the  southerly  portion  being 
known  as  Bedford  and  the  northerly  as  Chauncey  Place. 

Bidding  adieu  to  Summer  Street,  we  pause  for  a  moment  at 
what  was  formerly  Bethune's  Corner,  where  now  are  the  glit- 
tering shop-windows  of  Shreve,  Crump,  and  Low,  and  where 
a  ceaseless  human  tide,  crossing  the  narrow  street,  struggles  with 
the  passing  vehicles.  From  the  old  mansion-house  of  Thomas 
English,  which  stood  here,  was  buried  Benjamin  Faneuil. 

Looking  in  the  direction  of  the  Old  South,  a  little  north  of 
Summer  Street,  was  the  reputed  residence  of  Sir  Edmund  An- 
dros,  who  dwelt,  it  is  said,  in  an  old  house  which  disappeared 
about  1790,  and  which  stood  nearly  on  the  spot  now  occupied 
by  W.  H.  Allen,  216  Washington  Street.  This  tradition  ex- 
isted early  in  the  present  century,  and  may  have  been  true, 
though  it  coidd  not  have  been  the  habitation  of  the  knight 
when  Lady  Andros,  to  whose  funeral  we  have  referred  in  a 
former  chapter,  died.  Andros  was  governor  of  Xew  England 
only  three  years.       We   know   that  his   country-seat   was   at 


FROM    CHURCH    GREEN   TO    LIBERTY   TREE.  391 

Dorchester,  —  it  was  still  standing  in  1825,  —  and  there  is 
abundant  evidence  that  he  lived  in  Boston,  but  none  that  we 
are  aware  of,  that  he  owned  an  estate  here.  Though  a  change 
of  residence  was  less  common  among  the  old  inhabitants  of 
Boston  than  at  the  present  day,  it  was  no  anomaly. 

Earl  Bellomont,  writing  to  the  Lords  of  Trade  from  Boston, 
in  1G98,  says  he  paid  £  100  a  year  for  a  house,  besides  his 
charge  for  a  stable,  and  continues  in  the  following  strain  :  — 

"  It  is  for  the  King's  honour  that  his  Governour  have  a  house  ; 
there  is  a  very  good  house  plot  where  Sir  Edmund  Aixdros  lived  in 
the  best  part  of  the  town.  'T  is  the  least  of  their  thoughts  I  doubt 
to  build  a  house  for  the  King's  Governour." 

This  refers  "without  doubt  to  Cotton  Hill  or  the  vicinity, 
which  was  then  the  best  part  of  the  town,  and  Andros  only 
followed  the  example  of  Endicott,  Bellingham,  and  Vane,  when 
he  located  there.  The  region  lying  around  Summer  Street  was 
then  considered  remote,  and  less  than  fifty  years  ago,  when  Ann 
Bent  kept  a  little  shop  on  the  spot  where  the  despotic  old 
dragoon  of  Prince  Bupert  is  said  to  have  dwelt,  her  customers 
at  the  North  End  complained  that  she  was  too  far  out  of 
town. 

Threading  our  way  through  old  Newbury  Street  with  our 
face  towards  the  south,  we  pass  the  old  stand  of  Thomas  and 
Andrews.  As  early  as  the  great  fire  of  1711,  Increase  Mather 
says,  there  were  seven  booksellers'  shops  in  Boston.  In  1747 
the  Exchange  (Old  State  House)  was  surrounded  with  book- 
sellers' shops,  there  being  at  the  same  time  no  less  than  five 
printing-offices  in  the  town,  which  were  generally  well  em- 
ployed, deriving  their  chief  support  from  the  colleges  and 
schools  of  New  England.  At  this  time  the  Boston  Gazette 
was  printed  twice  a  week.  Thomas  printed  the  Spy  in  "  Union 
Street,  near  the  market,"  "at  the  south  corner  of  Marshall's 
Lane,  leading  from  the  Mill  Bridge  into  Union  Street,"  and 
"at  the  bottom  of  Royal  Exchange  Lane  near  the  Market, 
Dock  Square,"  besides  Hack  Street,  where  the  first  number  was 
probably  printed. 

We  cannot  pass  by  the  neighborhood  of  Avon  Street  with- 


392  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

out  thinking  of  old  Bartholomew  Green  and  his  News  Letter, 
of  Benjamin  Church  and  his  treachery,  of  Margaret  Fuller  and 
her  untimely  fate,  any  more  than  we  can  pass  the  Old  South 
without  thinking  of  the  riding-school,  or  Bunker  Hill  Monu- 
ment without  thinking  of  Prescott  and  Warren. 

A  group  of  taverns  next  claims  our  attention.  The  inns  of 
Old  London  rendered  up  their  names  freely  to  their  colonial 
imitators,  and  our  older  residents  might  drink  their  punch 
under  the  same  signs  they  were  used  to  frequent  beneath  the 
shadow  of  Old  Saint  Paul's.  We  have  had  no  Johnson  with 
his  corner  at  the  Mitre,  no  Dryden  with  Ms  snug  retreat  at  Will's 
Coffee-house,  nor  can  we  show  any  as  famous  as  Button's,  where 
Pope,  Steele,  Swift,  Arbuthnot,  and  Addison  were  wont  to 
assemble  at  "  the  best  head  in  England  "  ;  but  we  have  visited 
some  where  matters  more  serious  than  wit  and  sentiment  were 
discussed,  and  where  measures  were  digested  more  important  to 
mankind. 

We  commend  to  our  modern  hotel-keepers  the  following  ex- 
tract from  a  law  enacted  about  1649  :  — 

"  Nor  shall  any  take  tobacco  in  any  inne,  or  common  victual 
house,  except  in  a  private  room  there,  so  as  the  master  of  said  house 
nor  any  guest  there  shall  take  offence  thereat ;  which  if  any  do, 
then  such  persons  shall  forbear,  upon  pain  of  two  shillings  and 
sixpence  for  every  such  offence." 

We  come  first  to  the  Adams  House,  which  stands  on  the 
ground  formerly  occupied  by  the  Lamb  Tavern,  sometimes  styled 
the  White  Lamb.  The  "  Lamb  "  was  an  unpretending  budding 
of  two  stories,  but  of  good  repute  in  Old  Boston.  The  sign  is 
noticed  as  early  as  1 746.  Colonel  Doty  kept  at  the  sign  of  the 
Lamb  in  1760  ;  Edward  Kingman  kept  it  in  1826  ;  after  which 
it  was  conducted  successively  by  Laban  Adams,  for  whom  the 
house  was  named,  father  of  "  Oliver  Optic  "  (W.  T.  Adams),  and 
by  A.  S.  Allen.  The  first  stage-coach  to  Providence,  advertised 
July  20,  1767,  by  Thomas  Sabin,  put  up  at  the  sign  of  the  Lamb. 

The  White  Horse  Tavern  was  a  few  rods  south  of  the  Lamb, 
situated  nearly  opposite  the  mansion-house  of  Dr.  Lemuel  Hay- 
ward,  physician  and  surgeon,  from  whose  estate  Hayward  Place 


FROM    CHURCH    GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE.  6\)o 

is  named.  It  had  a  large  square  sign  projecting  over  the  foot- 
way, on  which  was  delineated  a  white  charger.  We  find  this 
tavern  mentioned  in  1794,  and  infer  that  it  was  the  rendezvous 
of  one  of  the  companies  of  the  Boston  Regiment,  as  young 
Woodbridge  came  here  for  his  sword  before  meeting  Phillips  on 
the  Common.  It  was  kept  by  Joseph  Morton,  father  of  Perez 
Morton,  in  1760,  and  fur  a  long  time  thereafter.  In  L787 
Israel  Hatch  became  mine  host ;  we  append  his  advertisement 
entire  :  — 

TAKE  NOTICE  ! 

Entertainment  for 

Gentlemen  and  Ladies 

At  the  White  Horse  Tavern, 

Newbury-Street. 

My  friends  and  travellers,  you  '11  meet 

With  kindly  welcome  and  good  cheer, 

And  what  it  is  yon  now  shall  hear  : 

A  spacious  house  and  liquors  good, 

A  man  who  gets  his  livelihood 

By  favours  granted  ;  hence  he  '11  be 

Always  smiling,  always  free  : 

A  good  large  house  for  chaise  or  chair, 

A  stable  well  expos'd  to  air  : 

To  finish  all,  and  make  you  blest, 

You  '11  have  the  breezes  from  the  west. 

And  —  ye,  who  flee  th'  approaching  Sol, 

My  doors  are  open  to  your  call  ; 

Walk  in  —  and  it  shall  be  my  care 

T'  oblige  the  weary  traveller. 

From  Attlehorough,  Sirs,  I  came, 

Where  once  I  did  you  entertain, 

And  now  shall  here  as  there  before 

Attend  you  at  my  open  door, 

Obey  all  orders  with  despatch, 

—  Am,  Sirs,  your  servant, 

Israel  Hatch. 
Boston,  May  14,  1787. 

Colonel  Daniel  Messinger,  who  was  always  in  request  to  sing 
the  odes  on  public  occasions,  commenced  business  near  the 
Lamb  Tavern  in  1789.  He  was  by  trade  a  hatter,  ami  had 
served  an  apprenticeship  witli  Nathaniel  Balch  (Governor  Han- 

17* 


394  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

cock's  favorite)  at  72  Old  Cornliill.  Colonel  Messinger  had  a 
voice  of  great  strength  and  purity,  and  had  sung  in  presence  of 
Washington,  Lafayette,  Jerome  Bonaparte,  and  other  distin- 
guished personages. 

Another  neighbor  of  the  Lamb  was  the  Lion  Tavern,  on  the 
site  of  the  present  Melodeon.  Its  sign  was  the  traditional 
British  Lion,  but  it  seems  to  have  lived  on  terms  of  amity  with 
its  peaceful  neighbor.  The  tavern  at  length  passed  into  the 
possession  of  the  Handel  and  Haydn  Society,  and  was  devoted 
to  the  performance  of  oratorios.  This  society  organized  30th 
March,  1815,  and  first  met  at  Graupner's  Hall,  Franklin  Street. 
The  original  number  of  members  was  thirty-one,  and  their  first 
public  performance  was  given  in  King's  Chapel,  Christmas 
evening,  1815,  when  selections  from  the  Creation,  Messiah,  etc. 
were  given  in  presence  of  an  audience  of  upwards  of  a  thousand 
persons.     The  Lion  was,  in  1789,  called  the  Turk's  Head. 

The  Lion  Tavern  estate  was  called  the  Melodeon  by  the 
Handel  and  Haydn  Society,  in  place  of  which  we  now  have  the 
splendid  structure  of  the  same  name.  The  first  Melodeon  was 
occupied  by  Bev.  Theodore  Barker's  society  on  Sundays.  Both 
societies  removed  later  to  Music  Hall  in  Winter  Street. 

In  1835  the  Lion  Tavern  became  the  property  of  Mr.  James 
Raymond,  and  was  immediately  transformed  into  an  amphi- 
theatre, under  the  name  of  the  Lion  Theatre.  It  opened  in 
January,  1836,  with  a  comedy  by  Buckstone,  supplemented  by 
equestrian  performances.  Mr.  J.  B.  Booth  appeared  at  this 
theatre  in  May,  1836.  It  passed  through  varying  fortunes 
until  1844,  when,  after  it  had  been  rechristened  the  Melodeon, 
Mr.  Macready  and  Miss  Cushman  appeared  here  for  a  short 
season.  Jenny  Lind,  Sontag,  and  Alboni,  all  gave  concerts  at 
the  Melodeon. 

There  seems  to  have  been  a  time  in  the  history  of  Boston 
when  the  settlers  were  called  upon  to  wage  a  war  of  extermina- 
tion against  a  domestic  enemy,  one  which  they  had  undoubtedly 
brought  among  themselves.  Our  readers  have  heard  of  a  bounty 
for  the  scalps  of  savages,  wolves'  ears,  and  bears'  claws,  but 
never  perhaps  of  a  price  being  set  upon  rats,  as  the  following 


FROM   CHURCH   GREEN   TO   LIBERTY   TREE.  395 

extract   from  the  town  records,  selected   from   a   number  of 
the  same  description,  will  show  was  once  the  case  :  — 

"  On  the  first  day  of  January,  1743,  the  Selectmen  gave  a  certifi- 
cate to  the  Province  Treasurer,  that  they  had  paid  out  of  the  Town 
Stock  to  sundry  persons  for  9280  Eats  lolled  in  or  near  the  Town, 
since  the  last  day  of  August,  £154.  13"  4d  old  tenor  —  and  desired 
him  to  pay  the  same  to  Joseph  Wadsworth  Esqr.,  Town  Treasurer." 


396  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

LIBERTY    TREE    AND    THE    NEIGHBORHOOD. 

Liberty  Tree.  —  Its  History.  —  Hanover  Square.  —  Liberty  Hall.  —  Hanging 
in  Effigy.  —  Auchmuty's  Lane.  —  The  Old  Suffolk  Bench  and  Bar.  — 
Boylston  Market.  —  Charles  Matthews.  —  James  E.  Murdoch.  —  Peggy 
Moore's.  —  Washington  Bank.  —  Beach  Street  Museum.  —  Essex  Street.  — 
Rainsford's  Lane.  —  Harrison  Avenue.  —  Admiral  Sir  Isaac  Coffin.  —  Gen- 
eral John  Coffin.  —  Anecdote  of  Admiral  Coffin.  —  Sir  Thomas  Aston 
Coffin.  —  Henry  Bass. — Old  Distill-houses. —  Manufacture  of  Rum. — 
Gilbert  Stuart,  —  Anecdotes  of.  —  First  Glass  Works.  —  Disappearance  of 
Trees.  —  Early  Planting  of  Trees.  —  Sir  Roger  Hale  Sheaffe.  —  South 
Cove.  —  Hollis  Street.  —  Colonel  John  Crane.  —  General  Ebenezer  Stevens. 
—  Mather  Byles,  —  Anecdotes  of.  —  Hollis  Street  Church.  —  Fire  of  17S7. 

LAFAYETTE  said,  when  in  Boston,  "The  world  should 
never  forget  the  spot  where  once  stood  Liberty  Tree,  so 
famous  in  your  annals."  It  has  been  the  care  of  David  Sears 
that  this  injunction  should  not  fall  to  the  ground  unheeded. 

In  the  Avail  of  the  building  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Essex 
Street,  at  its  junction  with  "Washington,  we  see  a  handsome 
freestone  bas-relief,  representing  a  tree  with  wide-spreading 
branches.  This  memorial  is  placed  directly  over  the  spot  where 
stood  the  famed  Liberty  Tree.     An  inscription  informs  us  that 

it  commemorates  :  — 

Liberty  1776 

Law  and  Order 

Sons  of  Liberty  1766 

Independence  of  their  country  1776. 

The  open  space  at  the  four  corners  of  "Washington,  Essex, 
and  Boylston  Streets  was  once  known  as  Hanover  Square,  from 
the  royal  house  of  Hanover,  and  sometimes  as  the  Elm  Neigh- 
borhood, from  the  magnificent  elms  with  which  it  was  environed. 
It  was  one  of  the  finest  of  these  that  obtained  the  name  of  Lib- 
erty Tree,  from  its  being  used  on  the  first  occasion  of  resistance 
to  the  obnoxious  Stamp  Act.     In  1774  this  tree,  with  another, 


LIBERTY    TREE    AND    THE    NEIGHBORHOOD. 


397 


stood  in  the  enclosure  of  an  old-fashioned  dwelling  at  the  his- 
toric corner;  in  1766,  when  the  repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act  took 
place,  a  large  copper  plate  was  fastened  to  the  tree  inscribed  in 
golden  characters  :  — 


"This  tree  was  planted  in  the  year  1646,  and  pruned  by  order  of  the  Sons  of 
Liberty,  Feb.  14th,  1766." 

In  August,  1775,  the  name  of  Liberty  having  become  offen- 
sive to  the  tories  and  their  British  allies,  the  tree  was  cut  down 
by  a  party  led  by  one  Job  Williams.  "Armed  with  axes,  they 
made  a  furious  attack  upon  it.  After  a  long  spell  of  laughing 
and  grinning,  sweating,  swearing,  and  foaming,  with  malice 
diabolical,  they  cut  down  a  tree  because  it  bore  the  name  of 
Liberty."  *     Some  idea  of  the  size  of  the  tree  may  be  formed 

from  the  fact  that  it  made 
fourteen  cords  of  wood. 
The  jesting  at  the  expense 
of  the  Sons  of  Liberty 
had  a  sorry  conclusion ; 
one  of  the  soldiers,  in  at- 
tempting to  remove  a 
limb,  fell  to  the  pavement 
and  was  killed. 

The  ground  immedi- 
ately about  Liberty  Tire 
was  popularly  known  as 
Liberty  Ball.  In  August, 
1 767,  a  flagstaff  bad  been 
erected,  which  weni 
through  and  extended 
above  its  highest  branches. 
A  flag  hoisted  upon  this  staff  was  the  signal  for  the  assembling 
of  the  Sons  of  Liberty  for  action.  Captain  Mackintosh,  the 
last  captain  of  tbo  Popes,  was  the  first  captain-general  of 
Liberty  Tree,  and  bad  charge  of  the  illuminations,  hanging  of 
effigies,  etc. 

*  Essex  Gazette,  177j. 


LIBERTY   TREE. 


398  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

After  the  old  "war  was  over  a  liberty-pole  was  erected  on  the 
stump  of  the  tree,  the  latter  long  serving  as  a  point  of  direction 
known  as  Liberty  Stump.  A  second  pole  was  placed  in  posi- 
tion on  the  2d  July,  1826.  It  was  intended  to  have  been  raised 
during  the  visit  of  Lafayette  in  1825,  and  the  following  lines 
were  written  by  Judge  Dawes  :  — 

"  Of  high  renown,  here  grew  the  Tree, 
•The  Elm  so  dear  to  Liberty  ; 
Your  sires,  beneath  its  sacred  shade, 
To  Freedom  early  homage  paid. 
This  day  with  filial  awe  surround 
Its  root,  that  sanctifies  the  ground, 
And  by  your  fathers'  spirits  swear, 
The  rights  they  left  you  '11  not  impair." 

Governor  Bernard,  writing  to  Lord  Hillsborough  under  date 
of  June  18,  1768,  gives  the  following  account  of  Liberty 
Tree  :  — 

"  Your  Lordship  must  know  that  Liberty  tree  is  a  large  old  Elm 
in  the  High  Street,  upon  which  the  effigies  were  hung  hi  the  tune 
of  the  Stamp  Act,  and  from  whence  the  mobs  at  that  time  made 
their  parades.  It  has  since  been  adorned  with  an  inscription,  ami 
has  obtained  the  name  of  Liberty  Tree,  as  the  ground  under  it  has 
that  of  Liberty  Hall.  In  August  last,  just  before  the  commencement 
of  the  present  troubles,  they  erected  a  flagstaff,  which  went  through 
the  tree,  and  a  good  deal  above  the  top  of  the  tree.  Upon  this  tbey 
hoist  a  flag  as  a  signal  for  tbe  Sons  of  Liberty,  as  they  are  called.  I 
gave  my  Lord  Shelburne  an  account  of  this  erection  at  tbe  time  it 
was  made.  This  tree  has  often  put  me  in  mind  of  Jack  Cade's  Oak 
of  Keformation." 

Liberty  Tree  Tavern  in  1833  occupied  the  spot  where  once 
Liberty  Tree  stood.  It  was  kept  by  G.  Cunimings.  In  its  im- 
mediate A'icinity  and  opposite  the  Boylston  Market  was  Lafay- 
ette Hotel,  built  in  1824,  and  kept  by  S.  Haskell  in  the  year 
above  mentioned. 

The  Sons  of  Liberty  adopted  the  name  given  them  by  Colonel 
Barre  in  a  speech  in  Parliament,  in  which  he  took  occasion  thus 
to  characterize  those  who  evinced  a  disposition  to  resist  the 
oppressive  measures  of  the  Ministry.  Under  the  branches  of 
Liberty  Tree  that  resistance  first  showed  itself  by  public  acts. 


LIBERTY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  399 

At  daybreak  on  the  14th  August,  1765,  nearly  ten  years 
before  active  hostilities  broke  out,  an  effigy  of  Mr.  Oliver,  the 
Stamp  officer,  and  a  boot,  with  the  Devil  peeping  out  of  it,  — 
an  allusion  to  Lord  Bute,  —  were  discovered  hanging  from 
Liberty  Tree.  The  images  remained  hanging  all  day,  and  were 
visited  by  great  numbers  of  people,  both  from  the  town  and 
the  neighboring  country.  Business  was  almost  suspended. 
Lieutenant-Governor  Hutchinson  ordered  the  sheriff  to  take 
the  figures  down,  but  he  was  obliged  to  admit  that  lie  dared 
not  do  so. 

As  the  day  closed  in  the  effigies  were  taken  down,  placed 
upon  a  bier,  and,  followed  by  several  thousand  people  of  every 
class  and  condition,  proceeded  first  to  the  Town  House,  and 
from  thence  to  the  supposed  office  of  the  Stamp  Master,  as  has 
been  detailed  in  that  connection.  With  materials  obtained 
from  the  ruins  of  the  building,  the  procession  moved  to  Fort 
Hill,  where  a  bonfire  was  lighted  and  the  effigies  consumed  in 
full  view  of  Mr.  Oliver's  house.  GoA'ernor  Bernard  and  council 
were  in  session  in  the  Town  House  when  the  procession  passed 
through  it,  as  the  lower  floor  of  the  building  left  open  for  public 
promenade  permitted  them  to  do.  In  the  attacks  which  fol- 
lowed upon  the  houses  of  the  secretary,  lieutenant-governor, 
and  officers  of  the  admiralty,  Mackintosh  appears  to  have  been 
the  leader.  In  these  proceedings  the  records  of  the  court  of 
vice-admiralty  were  destroyed,  — an  irreparable  loss  to  the  prov- 
ince and  to  history.  Mackintosh  was  arrested,  but  immediately 
released  on  the  demand  of  a  number  of  persons  of  character 
and  property. 

Mr.  Oliver  now  publicly  declared  his  intention  of  resigning, 
and  when  the  stamps  arrived  in  Boston  in  September  they  were 
sent  to  Castle  William.  In  November  there  was  another  hang- 
ing in  effigy  of  two  of  the  king's  advisers.  The  anniversary  of 
Pope  Day  was  celebrated  by  a  union  of  the  rival  factions,  who 
met  in  amity  and  refreshed  themselves  under  Liberty  Tree 
before  proceeding  to  Copp'fl  Hill,  as  was  customary.  But  the 
greatest  act  which  occurred  under  this  famous  tree  was  the 
public  declaration  of  Secretary  Oliver  that  he  would  not  in  any 


400  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

way,  by  himself  or  by  deputy,  perform  the  duties  of  stamp 
master.  The  Secretary,  desirous  of  less  publicity,  had  requested 
that  the  ceremony  might  take  place  at  the  Town  House,  but 
the  "  Sons  "  had  determined  that  the  "  Tree  "  was  the  proper 
place,  and  Mr.  Oliver  presented  himself  there.  Besides  this 
declaration,  subscribed  to  before  Richard  Dana,  justice  of  the 
peace,  Mr.  Oliver  fully  recanted  his  sentiments  in  favor  of  the 
Stamp  Act,  and  desired  the  people  no  longer  to  look  upon 
him  as  an  enemy,  but  as  a  friend,  —  a  piece  of  duplicity 
fully  exposed  by  the  discovery  of  his  correspondence  on  the 
subject. 

On  the  14th  February,  1766,  the  tree  was  pruned  under  the 
direction  of  skillful  persons,  and  on  the  20th  the  plate  was 
attached.  On  this  day  the  ceremony  of  burning  stamped  papers, 
and  the  effigies  of  Bute  and  Grenville,  took  place  at  the  gallows 
on  the  Neck,  the  Sons  returning  to  Hanover  Square,  where  they 
drank  his  Majesty's  health  and  other  toasts  expressive  of  their 
loyalty  to  the  throne. 

From  tliis  time  all  measures  of  public  concern  were  discussed 
by  the  Sons  of  Liberty  under  the  umbrageous  shelter  of  their 
adored  tree.  The  affair  of  Hancock's  sloop,  the  arrival  of  the 
troops,  the  Non-importation  Act,  each  received  the  attention 
they  merited.  On  the  14th  August,  1769,  anniversary  of  the 
first  Stamp  Act  proceedings,  and  "  the  day  of  the  Union  and 
firmly  combined  Association  of  the  Sons  of  Liberty  in  this 
Province,"  there  was  a  great  assembly  under  Liberty  Tree. 
Many  came  from  great  distances.  Reed  and  Dickinson  (a 
brother  of  John  Dickinson)  were  present  from  Philadelphia. 
Peyton  Randolph  was  expected,  but  did  not  come.  The  British 
flag  was  hoisted  over  the  tree,  and,  after  drinking  fourteen 
toasts,  the  meeting  adjourned  to  Robinson's  Tavern,  Dorchester, 
known  also  as  the  sign  of  the  Liberty  Tree,  where  the  day  was 
passed  in  festivity  and  mirth.  John  Adams  was  present,  and 
has  left  an  account  of  the  gathering,  into  which  we  should  not 
have  to  look  in  vain  for  Samuel  Adams,  Otis,  and  their  com- 
patriots. 

After  the  establishment  of  the  troops  in  Boston  the  necessity 


L1BEETY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  401 

for  secrecy  in  their  movements  compelled  the  patriots  to  resort 

to  the  clubs  for  conference.     The  tree,  however,  had  borne  its 

part  in  the  acts  preliminary  to  the  great  coniiict  which  ensued, 

and  to  pilgrims  to  the  shrines  of  American  history  the  spot 

where  it  once  stood  must  ever  possess  an  interest  second  to  no 

other  in  this  historic  city. 

"  The  tree  their  own  hands  had  to  liberty  reared 
They  lived  to  behold  growing  strong  and  revered  ; 
With  transport  then  cried,  '  Now  our  wishes  we  gain, 
For  our  children  shall  gather  the  fruits  of  our  pain.' 
In  freedom  we  're  born,  and  in  freedom  we  '11  live  ; 
Our  purses  are  ready,  — 
Steady,  friends,  steady  ;  — 
Not  as  slaves,  but  as  freemen,  our  money  we  '11  give." 

Samuel  Adams,  a  namesake  of  the  Revolutionary  patriot  and 
an  old  resident  of  North  End,  had  in  his  possession  until  his 
death,  in  1855,  a  flag  which  was  used  on  the  liberty-pole 
prior  to  the  Revolution,  and  ■  which  he  displayed  on  public 
occasions  with  great  satisfaction.  Some  services  which  he  per- 
formed on  the  patriots'  side,  in  which  he  sustained  losses,  pro- 
cured him  a  small  appropriation  from  the  State. 

The  hanging  of  effigies  appears  to  have  originated  in  England 
in  1763.  This  was  at  Honiton,  in  Devonshire,  famous  for  its 
lace  manufacture,  two  years  before  the  exhibitions  in  Boston 
from  the  limbs  of  Liberty  Tree.  A  tax  having  been  levied 
upon  cider,  the  effigy  of  the  minister  concerned  in  it  was  sus- 
pended from  an  apple-tree  that  grew  over  the  road,  with  the 
following  lines  affixed  to  it  :  — 

"  Behold  the  man  who  made  the  yoke 
"Which  doth  Old  England's  sons  provoke, 
And  now  he  hangs  upon  a  tree, 
An  emblem  of  our  liberty." 

Essex  Street  Avas  the  line  of  division  between  old  Newbury 
and  Orange  Streets.  'Newbury  reached  to  "Winter  Street,  while 
Orange  conducted  from  the  fortifications  on  the  Neci  into  town  ; 
its  name  was  no  doubt  given  in  honoT  of  the  Prince  of  '  (range. 
Essex  Street,  which  was  named  in  1708.  was  also  railed  Aueh- 
muty's  Lane,  for  the  family  so  distinguished  in  the  history  of 
the  old  Suffolk  Bar. 


402  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

The  elder  Robert  Auchmuty  was  a  barrister  during  the  ad- 
ministration of  Belcher  and  Shirley,  and  in  his  latter*  years  judge- 
advocate  of  the  Court  of  Admiralty. 

The  younger  Auchmuty  was  judge  of  the  same  court  when 
the  Revolution  began.  His  associates  at  the  bar  were  Read, 
Pratt,  Gridley,  Trowbridge,  Adams,  Otis,  the  gifted  Thacher, 
and  the  brilliant  Quincy.  He  was  born  in  Boston,  and  assisted 
Adams  and  Quincy  in  the  defence  of  Captain  Preston,  for  his 
participation  in  the  massacre  in  King  Street.  His  residence  was 
in  School  Street,  next  the  old  Extinguisher  Engine-house. 
A  nephew,  Sir  Samuel  Auchmuty,  born  in  New  York,  fought 
against  his  countrymen  in  the  service  of  King  George. 

Benjamin  Pratt,  afterwards  chief  justice  of  New  York,  mar- 
ried a  daughter  of  the  old  Judge  Auchmuty.  He  was  a  small, 
thin  man,  and  from  the  loss  of  a  limb  was  obliged  to  use 
crutches.  It  was  of  him  that  John  Adams  said  "  that  he  had 
looked  with  wonder  to  see  such  a  little  body  hung  upon  two 
sticks  send  forth  such  eloquence  and  displays  of  mind."  Pratt's 
office  was  in  the  second  house  north  of  the  corner  of  Court  Street 
in  Old  Cornhill,  where  Gould  and  Lincoln's  bookstore  now  is ; 
his  country-seat  was  on  Milton  Hill. 

Oxenbridge  Thacher's  office  was  opposite  the  south  door  of 
the  Old  State  House.  Sampson  Salter  Blowers,  eminent  at  the 
same  bar,  lived  in  Southack's  Court  (Howard  Street).  Gridley, 
with  whom  James  Otis  studied,  lived  in  a  house  next  north  of 
Cornhill  Square.  John  Adams's  office  was  in  a  house  next 
above  William  Minot's,  which  was  on  Court  Street,  opposite 
the  Court  House,  where  now  stands  Minot's  Building.  Read 
built  and  lived  in  the  house  described  as  Mr.  Minot's.  Cazneau 
lived  in  a  house  next  east  of  the  Court  House.  Chief  Justice 
Dana's  father  lived  at  the  corner  of  Wilson's  Lane.  John 
Quincy  Adams's  office  was  in  Court  Street. 

Before  the  Revolution  eight  dollars  was  the  fee  in  an  impor- 
tant cause,  five  dollars  was  the  limit  for  a  jury  argument,  two 
dollars  for  a  continuance.  Then  the  lawyers  went  the  ciivuits 
with  the  judges.  The  courtesy  and  dignity  which  distinguished 
the  intercourse  between  bench  and  bar  did  not  continue  under 


LIBERTY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  403 

the  new  order  of  things,  if  we  may  credit  Fisher  Ames,  who, 
in  allusion  to  the  austerity  of  the  court,  supposed  to  he  Judge 
Paine,  and  the  manners  of  the  attorneys,  remarked,  that  a 
lawyer  should  go  into  court  with  a  club  in  one  hand  and  a 
speaking-trumpet  in  the  other.  Chief  Justice  Parsons  and 
Judge  Sedgwick  were  the  last  barristers  who  sat  upon  the 
bench.  Perez  Morton  and  Judge  TVetruore  were  the  last  sur- 
vivors who  had  attained  the  degree. 

Boylston  Market,  when  opened  to  the  public  in  1810,  was 
considered  far  out  of  town.  It  was  named  to  honor  the  benev- 
olent and  philanthropic  Ward  Nicholas  Boylston,  a  descend- 
ant of  that  Dr.  Zabdiel  Boylston  so  famous  in  the  history  of 
inoculation.  The  parties  interested  in  the  movement  met  at 
the  Exchange  Coffee  House  on  the  17th  of  January,  1809, 
when  their  arrangements  were  perfected.  John  Quincy  Adams, 
who  then  lived  in  Boylston  Street,  was  much  interested  in  the 
new  market,  and  made  a  brief  address  at  the  laying  of  the 
corner-stone.  The  building  was  designed  by  Bulfmch,  and  Mr. 
Boylston  presented  the  clock.  In  1870  the  solid  brick  struc- 
ture was  moved  back  from  the  street  eleven  feet  without  disturb- 
ing the  occupants.  Before  the  erection  of  this  market-house, 
Faneuil  Hall  Market  was  the  principal  source  of  supply  for  the 
inhabitants  of  this  remote  quarter. 

Boylston  Hall,  over  the  market  —  which  has  also  been  known 
as  Pantheon  Hall  and  Adams  Hall  —  is  associated  with  a 
variety  of  musical,  theatrical,  and  miscellaneous  entertainments. 
It  was  occupied  by  the  Handel  and  Haydn  Society  in  1817,  the 
year  after  their  incorporation,  and  used  by  them  for  their  mu- 
sical exhibitions.  In  1818  Incledon  and  Phillips,  the  cele- 
brated vocalists,  assisted  at  their  performances.  The  celebrated 
Charles  Matthews  gave  his  "Trip  to  Paris  "  here  in  1822,  after 
the  close  of  his  engagement  at  the  old  theatre,  as  Mr.  Clapp 
says,  "to  meet  the  wants  of  those  holy  puritans  who  would 
not  visit  the  theatre  to  see  an  entertainment  which  they  patro- 
nized in  a  hall."  Mr.  Buckingham,  editor  of  the  Galaxy,  char- 
acterized the  performance  as  low  and  vulgar,  for  which  and 
other  strong  expressions  Matthews  commenced  an  action  lor 


404  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

damages ;  the  suit  never  came  to  trial.  A  theatre  was  also 
established  here  by  Wyzeman  Marshall,  and  the  since  much- 
admired  and  successful  actor  Murdoch  conducted  at  one  time 
a  gymnasium  and  school  of  elocution  in  Boylston  Hall.  Added 
to  these,  it  was  used  by  several  religious  societies  prior  to  its 
present  occupation  as  an  armory. 

Upon  this  spot  once  stood  the  tavern  of  "  Peggy "  Moore. 
The  vicinity  was  the  usual  halting-place  for  the  country  people 
coming  into  town  with  their  garden  produce.  Then  ox-teams 
were  the  rule,  few  farmers  having  horses,  and  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Peggy  Moore's  was  usually  a  scene  of  plenty  and  of 
jollity.  From  the  shrewdness  with  which  barter  was  carried 
on,  the  place  was  dubbed  "  shaving  corner,"  and  among  the 
keen  blades  who  trafficked  on  this  exchange,  none,  it  was  said, 
excelled  William  Foster  of  the  neighboring  lane.  Even  the 
future  President  may  have  cheapened  his  joint  here,  or  turned 
the  scale  in  his  favor  by  a  call  at  Peggy  Moore's. 

The  Washington  Bank  was  long  located  at  the  corner  of 
Washington  and  Beach  Streets,  where  its  imposing  granite 
front  remained  until  the  recent  erection  of  the  present  build- 
ings. The  bank  was  incorporated  in  1825,  with  a  capital  of 
half  a  million.  For  a  long  time  previous  to  its  demolition  the 
building  was  occupied  as  a  furniture  warehouse.  In  Beach 
Street  was  established  the  short-lived  Dramatic  Museum  in 
1848,  in  the  building  now  known  as  the  Beach  Street  Market. 

We  will  enter  upon  Essex  Street.  A  short  walk  brings  us 
to  Harrison  Avenue,  one  of  the  new  streets  risen  from  the 
sea-shore.  The  beginning  of  this  now  handsome  street,  shaded 
for  a  considerable  distance  by  trees,  was  in  the  portion  from 
Essex  Street  to  Beach,  where  it  was  arrested  by  the  water. 
This  was  called  Eainsford's  Lane,  until  included  in  Front 
Street  (Harrison  Avenue)  in  1825.  The  name  was  from 
Deacon  Edward  Rainsford,  who  took  the  oath  of  freeman  in 
1637,  and  was  one  of  those  disarmed  in  the  Anne  Hutchinson 
controversy.  His  tract  was  on  the  westerly  side  of  Essex 
Street  extending  to  the  sea,  and  separated  from  Garrett  Bourne 
on  the  west  by  his  lane. 


LIBERTY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  405 

Harrison  Avenue,  which  was  built  in  I^OG  -07,  and  first 
named  Front  Street,  extended  from  Beach  Street  to  South  Bos- 
ton bridge.  Up  to  1830  the  docks  and  flats  on  the  west  side  of 
this  street  were  not  all  filled  up.  Its  present  name  was  given,  in 
1841,  in  honor  of  General  Harrison.  A  straight  avenue,  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  length  and  seventy  feet  wide,  was  something 
unknown  in  Boston  before  this  street  was  laid  out. 

On  the  east  side  of  Rainsford's  Lane  was  the  house  in  which 
were  born  Admiral  Sir  Isaac  Coffin  and  his  brother  John,  a 
major-general  in  the  British  army.  Both  were  sons  of  Nathan- 
iel Coffin,  Collector  of  his  Majesty's  Customs,  and  a  firm 
loyalist.  Sir  Isaac  was  educated  in  the  Boston  schools,  and 
entered  the  royal  navy  in  1773,  just  before  the  Revolution. 

John  Coffin  volunteered  to  accompany  the  royal  army  in 
the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and  soon  after  obtained  a  commis- 
sion. He  rose  to  the  rank  of  captain,  and  went  with  the  New 
York  Volunteers  to  Georgia,  in  1778.  At  the  battle  of  Savan- 
nah, at  Hobkirk's  Hill,  and  at  Cross  Creek  near  Charleston, 
his  conduct  won  the  admiration  of  his  superiors.  At  the  battle 
of  Eutaw  his  gallantry  attracted  the  notice  of  General  Greene. 
He  was  made  colonel,  1797;  major-general,  1803;  general 
1819. 

The  old  mansion  of  the  Coffins  was  afterwards  removed 
farther  up  Harrison  Avenue.  It  was  of  wood,  three  stories  high, 
with  gambrel  roof,  and  may  still  be  seen  by  the  curious  on  the 
east  side  of  the  street,  standing  at  a  little  distance  back  with 
the  end  towards  it. 

The  following  anecdote  of  Sir  Isaac  is  authentic.  While 
in  Boston  once,  the  admiral  stopped  at  the  Tremont  House, 
and,  being  very  gouty,  was  confined  to  his  room.  At  King's 
Chapel  prayers  were  offered  for  his  recovery,  and  after  service 
was  over  a  gentleman  paid  his  respects  to  the  distinguished 
visitor  at  his  room,  where  he  found  him  with  his  leg  swathed 
in  bandages,  and  in  no  conciliatory  mood.  His  footman 
having  accidentally  run  against  his  gouty  foot,  the  admiral  dis- 
charged a  volley  of  oaths  at  Ins  devoted  head,  following  them 
with  his  crutch.      The  eilicaey  of  the  prayers  may  be  doubted. 


406  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Still  another  of  this  famous  royalist  family  was  destined  to 
acquire  rank  and  distinction  in  the  British  service.  '  Sir  Thomas 
Aston  Coffin,  Bart.,  was  a  son  of  William  Coffin  of  Boston,  and 
cousin  of  Admiral  Sir  Isaac.  All  three  of  the  distinguished 
Coffins  were  born  in  Boston,  and  bred  in  her  public  schools. 
Thomas  was  at  one  period  private  secretary  to  Sir  Guy  Carle- 
ton,  and  attained  the  rank  of  commissary-general  in  the  Brit- 
ish army.     He  was  a  graduate  of  Harvard. 

The  admiral  ever  retained  an  affectionate  regard  for  his  na- 
tive country.  His  family  were  descended  from  that  tight 
little  isle  of  Nantucket,  where  the  name  of  the  Coffins  has 
been  made  famous  in  story  for  their  exploits  in  the  whale 
fishery.  He  gave  evidence  of  his  attachment  by  investing  a 
large  sum  in  the  English  funds  for  the  benefit  of  the  Coffin 
school  on  the  island,  of  which  fund  the  mayor  and  aldermen 
of  Boston  were  made  trustees  for  the  distribution  of  the  annual 
interest  among  five  of  the  most  deserving  boys  and  as  many 
girls  of  that  school. 

Next  south  of  the  little  alley  that  divides  Rainsford's  Lane 
lived  Henry  Bass,  one  of  the  Tea  Party,  at  whose  house  Sam- 
uel Adams  and  Major  Melvill  often  passed  a  convivial  evening 
and  ate  a  Sunday  dinner. 

Prior  to  1793  the  neighborhood  of  Essex  and  South  Streets 
was  largely  occupied  by  distilleries.  The  oldest  one  is  that  now 
and  for  some  time  in  possession  of  the  French  family,  which 
appears  to  have  been  improved  for  that  purpose  as  early  as 
1714  by  Henry  Hill,  distiller,  and  by  Thomas  Hill  after  him. 
Besides  this,  there  were  Avery's  and  Haskins's  distilleries,  be- 
tween Essex  and  Beach  Streets  ;  their  vicinity  marks  the  prox- 
imity of  the  shore. 

We  have  spoken  elsewhere  of  the  manufacture  of  rum  in 
Boston.  In  1794,  when  the  town  contained  a  little  more  than 
18,000  inhabitants,  there  were  no  less  than  thirty  distill-houses. 
Twenty-seven  were  in  operation  in  1792,  but  the  disturbances 
in  the  French  West  India  Islands  and  the  excise  laid  by  Con- 
gress had  diminished  the  number  working  to  eighteen  in  the 
year  first  mentioned.  Eum  was  oidy  fourpence,  and  that  from 
the  West  Indies  but  sixpence,  a  quart. 


LIBEKTY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  407 

Gilbert  Stuart  lived  and  painted  in  1828  in  a  modern  three- 
story  brick  house,  standing  alone  in  Essex  Street,  numbered  59, 
near  the  opening  of  Edinboro.  The  latter  is  a  modern  thor- 
oughfare. Before  removing  to  Essex  Street,  Stuart  resided  in 
Washington  Place,  Fort  Hill,  where  he  had  a  painting-room. 
He  took  up  his  permanent  residence  in  Boston  in  1806,  and  died 
here  July  9, 1828.  His  two  daughters,  Mrs.  Stebbins  and  Miss 
Jane  Stuart,  pursued  their  father's  profession  in  Boston  ;  the 
latter  still  follows  her  art  at  Newport,  R.  I.  Stuart,  it  is  said, 
did  not  instruct  his  daughters  as  he  might  have  done. 

Stuart  was  not  particularly  prepossessing  in  appearance,  and 
was  very  careless  in  dress,  but  a  man  of  great  genius.  His  eye 
was  very  piercing,  and  photographed  a  subject  or  a  sitter  at  a 
glance.  He  was  easily  offended,  and  would  then  destroy  his 
works  of  great  value. 

Having  exhausted  the  patronage  of  Newport,  Stuart  went 
over  to  London,  where  he  began  to  paint  in  1781.  He  soon 
found  himself  without  money  and  without  friends  in  the  great 
capital,  and  for  some  time  played  the  organ  at  a  church  to 
secure  the  means  of  living.  In  this  the  knowledge  of  music 
cultivated  in  America  stood  him  in  good  stead.  He  was  a 
capital  performer  on  the  flute,  and  it  is  related  by  Trumbull 
that  he  passed  his  last  night  at  Newport  serenading  the  girls. 
His  passion  for  music  led  him  to  neglect  his  art  at  this  time, 
and  some  of  his  friends  thought  it  necessary  to  advise  him  to 
go  to  work.  To  his  musical  genius  he  owed  his  bread  in  the 
swarming  wilderness  of  London. 

Among  the  first  patrons  of  Stuart  were  Lord  St.  Vincent,  the 
Duke  of  Northumberland  (Percy),  and  Colonel  I'.anv,  who, 
learning  of  his  embarrassments,  came  into  his  room  one  morn- 
ing soon  after  he  had  set  up  an  independent  easel,  locked  the 
door,  and  made  friendly  offers  of  assistance.  This  the  painter 
declined.  They  then  said  they  would  sit  for  their  portraits, 
and  insisted  on  paying  half  price  in  advance.  This  is  .Stuart's 
own  relation. 

Stuart  became  a  pupil  of  West  at  twenty-four,  the  latter 
having  lent  him  a  small  sum  and   invited  him  to  his  studio. 


408  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

He  afterwards  painted  a  full  length  of  his  old  master.  While 
with  West,  Stuart  often  indulged  of  a  morning  in 'a  bout  with 
the  foils  with  his  master's  son  Eafe  (Raphael  West).  He  was 
surprised  one  morning  by  the  old  gentleman  just  as  he  had 
driven  Eafe  to  the  wall,  with  his  back  to  one  of  his  father's 
best  pictures.  "  There,  you  dog,"  says  Stuart,  "  there  I  have 
you,  and  nothing  but  your  background  relieves  you."  Stuart 
painted  in  London  at  John  Palmer's,  York  Buildings. 

Stuart,  while  in  Paris,  painted  Louis  XVI.  But  his  greatest 
work  was  the  head  of  Washington,  now  in  the  Athenaeum  Gal- 
lery. This  portrait  he  offered  to  the  State  of  Massachusetts  for 
one  thousand  dollars,  but  it  was  refused.  It  would  now  be  a 
matter  of  difficulty  to  fix  a  price  upon  it.  The  head  remained 
in  Stuart's  room  until  his  widow  found  a  purchaser  for  it.  The 
first  picture  of  Washington  painted  by  Stuart  was  a  failure, 
and  he  destroyed  it,  but  he  produced  at  the  second  trial  a 
canvas  that  never  can  be  surpassed.  Of  the  works  of  the  older 
painters  there  are  said  to  be  eleven  of  Smibert's  and  eighteen 
of  Blackburn's  now  in  Boston. 

The  first  glass-works  in  Boston  were  located  in  what  is  now 
Edinboro  Street;  the  company  was  established  in  1787.  The 
Legislature  granted  an  exclusive  right  to  the  company  to  manu- 
facture for  fifteen  years,  and  exemption  from  all  taxes  for  five 
years  ;  the  workmen  were  relieved  from  military  duty.  The 
company  first  erected  a  brick  building,  conical  in  form,  but  this 
proving  too  small,  it  was  taken  down  and  replaced  by  a  wooden 
one  a  hundred  feet  long  by  sixty  in  breadth.  After  many  em- 
barrassments the  company  began  the  manufacture  of  window- 
glass  in  November,  1793.  Samuel  Gore  was  one  of  the 
originators  of  the  enterprise,  but  the  company  failed  to  make 
the  manufacture  remunerative.  In  1797  the  works  were  con- 
trolled by  Charles  E.  Kupfer,  who  continued  to  make  window- 
glass.  They  were  blown  down  in  the  great  gale  of  1815,  and 
subsequently  taking  fire,  were  consumed. 

The  manufacture  of  glass  in  Massachusetts  was  begun  some 
time  before  the  Eevolution  in  a  part  of  Braintree  called  Ger- 
mantown.    Nothing  but  bottles,  however,  were  produced  here, 


LIBERTY   TREE   AND    THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  409 

and  the  works  failed  before  the  commencement  of  the  war. 
The  house  was  burnt  down  and  never  rebuilt. 

Opposite  Oliver  Place  are  two  magnificent  specimens  of  the 
American  elm,  standing  in  the  pavement  before  two  old-time 
brick  houses.  They  are  as  large  as  those  of  the  Tremont  Street 
mall,  and  are  thrifty  and  majestic. 

Time  was  when  the  trees  were  everywhere ;  now  they  are 
indeed  rare,  and  the  places  that  once  knew  them  "  now  know 
them  no  more."  Formerly  there  were  few,  if  any,  situations  in 
the  town  in  which  trees  were  not  seen,  but  they  are  now  fast 
following  the  old  Bostonians  who  planted  them  or  dwelt  beneath 
their  grateful  shade.  Fifty  were  removed  at  one  time  from 
Charles  Street  when  the  roadway  was  widened  \  these  were 
replanted  on  the  Common.  There  were  two  noble  elms  at  the 
corner  of  Congress  ami  Water  Streets  forty  years  ago,  scarcely 
exceeded  in  size  hy  those  of  the  malls.  Bowdoin  Square,  the 
Coolidge,  Bulfinch,  and  Parkman  estates,  were  adorned  with 
shade  and  fruit  trees.  Occasionally,  during  our  pilgrimage,  we 
have  discovered  some  solitary  tree  in  an  unexpected  place,  but 
it  only  stands  because  its  time  has  not  yet  come. 

"  But  rising  from  the  dust  of  busy  streets, 

These  forest  children  gladden  many  hearts  ; 
As  some  old  friend  their  welcome  presence  greets 

The  toil-worn  soul,  and  fresher  life  imparts. 
Their  shade  is  doubly  grateful  where  it  lies 

Above  the  glare  which  stilling  walls  throw  back  ; 
Through  quivering  leaves  we  see  the  soft  blue  skies, 

Then  happier  tread  the  dull,  unvaried  track." 

"We  have  remarked  that  the  old  peninsula  was  but  thinly 
wooded,  and  the  settlers  soon  began  to  plant  trees,  supplying 
themselves  with  wood  from  the  islands  for  a  time.  We  find  by 
the  records  that  tins  town  took  order  as  early  as  I  (>.">.">  "to  pre- 
vent the  trees  planted  on  the  Neck  from  being  spoiled."  In 
March,  1695,  it  appears  that  several  attempts  had  been  made 
by  Captain  Samuel  Sewall  "to  plant  tiers  ;(t  the  south  end  of 
the  town  for  the  shading  of  Wheeler's  Point,"  and  all  others 
were  prohibited  from  meddling  with  them.  The  trees  on  the 
Common  and  Liberty  Tree  were  planted  early.  There  was  an 
18 


410  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

English  elm  on  the  Storer  estate,  Sudbury  Street,  which  had 
few  horizontal  limbs,  but  which  attained  a  very  great  height, 
the  trunk  being  larger  than  those  of  Paddock's  Mall.  We  have 
pointed  to  its  fellow  on  West  Street.  Three  English  elms, 
thought  to  have  been  planted  by  some  of  the  Oliver  family 
early  in  the  last  century,  stood  on  the  edge  of  High  Street,  in 
what  was  Quincy  Place,  on  the  building  of  which  they  were 
levelled.  They  were  of  the  size  of  those  in  Paddock's  Mall 
A  fourth  of  the  same  species  stood  in  solitary  grandeur  at  the 
upper  part  of  the  lot  on  Fort  Hill,  for  years  denominated  as 
Phillips's  Pasture,  which  was  the  finest  specimen  of  the  English 
elm  in  the  town.  Having  "  ample  room  and  verge  enough,"  it 
extended  its  branches  horizontally  in  every  direction.  This 
must  have  corresponded  nearly  in  age  with  those  mentioned  in 
High  Street. 

In  Essex  Street  was  the  cooper-shop  of  Samuel  Peck,  one 
of  the  Tea  Party,  whose  two  apprentices,  Henry  Purkett  and 
Edward  Dolbier,  followed  him  to  the  scene  of  action  at  Griffin's 
Wharf. 

The  visitor  to  this  quarter  will  find,  at  the  corner  of  Essex 
and  Columbia  Streets,  an  old  wooden  house,  to  which  is  ascribed 
the  honor  of  being  the  residence  for  a  time  of  the  ubiquitous 
Earl  Percy.  It  stands  at  a  little  distance  back  from  Essex 
Street,  on  which  it  fronts.  Built  of  wood,  with  gambrel 
roof,  it  did  not  differ  materially  from  the  neighboring  struc- 
tures. 

According  to  Mr.  Sabine,  this  was  the  residence  of  Mrs. 
Sheaffe,  whose  son,  Roger  Hale,  became  the  protege  of  Percy, 
who  took  a  great  liking  to  him  while  lodging  with  his  mother 
in  this  house.  Under  the  protection  of  the  Earl  the  young 
Bostonian  advanced  to  the  rank  of  lieutenant-general  in  the 
British  army,  and  became  a  baronet.  His  principal  military 
service  seems  to  have  been  in  Canada,  though  it  was  his  wish 
not  to  have  been  employed  against  his  native  country.  He 
took  command  at  Queenstown  after  the  fall  of  General  Brock, 
and  defended  Little  York  (Toronto)  from  the  attack  of  our 
forces  under  General  Dearborn.     He  was  also  in  the  attack  on 


LIBERTY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  411 

Copenhagen  under  Nelson  in  1801,  and  saw  service  in  Holland. 
Sir  Roger  made  several  visits  to  his  native  town,  and  is  repre- 
sented as  a  man  of  generous  impulses,  high-minded,  and  well 
worthy  the  interest  of  his  noble  friend  and  patron.  The  build- 
ing is  of  course  much  altered  in  its  exterior  aspect. 

The  lower  part  of  Essex  Street  brings  us  to  the  limit  of  the 
South  Cove  improvement  in  tliis  direction,  by  which  the  an- 
cient sea-border  was  obliterated,  and  a  territory  nearly  twice  as 
large  as  the  Common  added  to  the  area  of  Boston.  Charles 
Ewer  has  been  named  as  the  projector  of  this  enterprise,  which 
reclaimed  from  tide-water  that  part  of  the  South  Cove  from 
Essex  Street  to  South  Boston  Bridge,  and  lying  east  of  Harrison 
Avenue.  Work  was  begun  in  1833,  a  bonus  of  $  75,000  being 
paid  to  the  Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad  Company  to  locate 
its  depot  within  the  cove  forever.  The  railway  purchased 
138,000  feet  of  land  for  its  purposes,  and  48,000  were  sold  for 
the  City,  now  the  United  States,  Hotel.  Another  parcel  of  land 
was  sold  to  the  Seekonk  Branch  Railroad  Company.  By  1857 
the  agent  had  acquired  seventy-three  acres  of  land  and  flats  ; 
seventy-seven  acres  in  all  were  proposed  to  be  reclaimed. 

The  locomotives,  cars,  rails,  etc.  first  used  on  the  Worcester 
railroad  were  all  of  English  make.  The  passenger  carriages 
were  shaped  like  an  old-fashioned  stage-coach,  contained  a  dozen 
persons,  and  ran  on  single  trucks.  They  bore  little  comparison, 
either  in  size,  comfort,  or  adornment,  to  the  luxurious  vehicles 
now  used  on  the  same  road.  The  freight  cars,  or  vans,  had 
frames,  over  which  was  drawn  a  canvas  covering  similar  to  those 
in  use  on  the  army  baggage-wagon,  so  that  when  seen  at  a  little 
distance  a  freight  train  did  not  look  unlike  a  number  el'  hay- 
stacks in  motion  across  the  fields.  The  first  locomotive  used 
on  this  road  was  brought  over  from  England  on  the  deck  of  a 
ship,  and  wag  with  great  difficulty  landed  and  moved  across  the 
city  from  Long  Wharf.     It  was  called  the  Meteor. 

We  will  now  transfer  our  readers  to  the  vicinity  of  Eollis 
Street.  Opposite  the  entrance  to  that  avenue  on  Treraont 
Street  is  a  collection  of  old  wooden  buildings,  whose  antiquity 
is  vouched  for  by  their  extreme  dilapidation.     Batches  of  the, 


412  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

roof  seem  returning  to  their  native  earth,  and  the  crazy  struc- 
tures appear  to  have  outlived  their  day  and  generation. 

Here  was  the  dwelling  and  carpenter-shop  of  Colonel  John 
Crane,  who  came  so  near  meeting  his  death  in  the  hold  of  the 
tea-ship.  The  shop  is  still  used  by  mechanics  of  the  same 
craft.  Crane,  after  the  construction  of  the  fortifications  on  the 
Neck,  commanded  that  post,  being  then  major  of  a  regiment  of 
artillery,  of  which  the  Boston  company  formed  the  nucleus. 
He  became  an  expert  marksman,  and  was  considered  the  most 
skilfnl  in  the  regiment.  It  is  related  that  one  day,  as  he 
sighted  a  gun  bearing  upon  Boston,  he  intended  to  hit  the 
house  of  Dr.  Byles,  a  tory  neighbor  of  his,  who  lived  next 
door.  The  shot,  however,  passed  over  the  doctor's  house,  and 
tore  away  his  own  ridgepole. 

Crane  was  wounded  in  New  York  in  1776  ;  he  was  in  Sulli- 
van's expedition  to  Rhode  Island  in  1778,  and  succeeded  Knox 
in  the  command  of  the  Massachusetts  artillery.  His  services 
were  highly  valued  by  the  commander-in-chief,  who  retained 
him  near  his  headquarters.  Colonel  Crane  was  a  Bostonian  by 
birth. 

Mather  Byles  lived  in  an  old  two-story  wooden  house,  with 
gambrel  roof,  situated  just  at  the  commencement  of  the  bend 
or  turn  of  Tremont  Street ;  so  that  when  that  street  was  ex- 
tended, it  cut  off  a  part  of  the  southeast  side  of  the  house. 
What  is  now  called  Common  Street  is  a  part  of  old  Nassau 
Street,  which  commenced  at  Boylston  and  ended  at  Orange, 
now  Washington  Street.  Tremont  Street  was  opened  through 
to  Roxbury  line  in  1832.  At  one  time  that  part  from  Boylston 
to  Common  was  called  Holyoke  Street. 

Rev.  Mather  Byles,  the  first  pastor  of  Hollis  Street  Church, 
came  on  his  mother's  side  from  the  stock  of  those  old  Puritan 
divines,  John  Cotton  and  Richard  Mather.  He  was  by  birth  a 
Bostonian,  having  first  seen  the  light  in  1706,  and  died,  an 
octogenarian,  in  his  native  town  in  1788.  He  was  evidently 
popular  with  his  parish,  as  he  continued  his  ministrations  for 
more  than  forty  years,  until  his  tory  proclivities  caused  a  sepa- 
ration from  his  flock.     After  the  name  of  tory  came  to  have  a 


LIBERTY   TREE    AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  413 

peculiar  significance,  Mather  Byles's  associations  seem  to  Lave 
been  almost  altogether  with  that  side.  He  was  a  warm  friend 
of  Hutchinson  and  other  of  the  crown  officers,  but  remained  in 
Boston  after  the  adherents  of  the  royal  cause  had  generally  left 
the  town. 

"  In  1777  he  was  denounced  in  town-meeting,  and,  having  been  by 
a  subsequent  trial  pronounced  guilty  of  attachment  to  the  Royal 
cause,  was  sentenced  to  confinement,  and  to  be  sent  with  his  family 
to  England.  This  doom  of  banishment  was  never  enforced,  and  lie 
was  permitted  to  remain  in  Boston.  He  died  in  1788,  aged  eighty- 
two  years.  He  was  a  scholar,  and  Pope,  Lansdowne,  and  Watts  were 
his  correspondents."  * 

Many  anecdotes  are  recorded  of  this  witty  divine.  On  one 
occasion,  when  a  sentinel  was  placed  before  his  door,  he  per- 
suaded him  to  go  an  errand  for  him,  and  gravely  mounted 
guard  over  his  own  house,  with  a  musket  on  his  shoulder,  to 
the  amusement  of  the  passers-by.  Dr.  Byles  paid  his  addresses 
unsuccessfully  to  a  lady  who  afterwards  married  a  Mr.  Quincy. 
"So,  madam,"  said  the  Doctor  on  meeting  her,  "you  prefer  a 
Quincy  to  Byles,  it  seems."  The  reply  was,  "  Yes ;  for  if  there 
had  been  anything  worse  than  biles,  God  would  have  afflicted 
Job  with  them."  His  two  daughters,  whose  peculiarities  were 
scarcely  less  marked  than  those  of  their  father,  continued  to 
reside  in  the  old  homestead.  They  remained  violent  tories 
until  their  death,  though  they  were  very  poor  and  somewhat 
dependent  upon  the  benevolence  of  Trinity  Church  parish. 

The  following  anecdotes  of  Rev.  Mather  Byles  illustrate  his 
peculiar  propensity.  Just  before  the  Revolution,  Isaiah  Thomas, 
author  of  the  History  of  Printing,  paid  a  visit  to  the  Rev.  1  >r.  B., 
and  was  taken  by  him  to  an  upper  window,  or  observatory  as  the 
Doctor  called  it,  from  which  there  was  a  fine  prospect.  "  Now," 
said  Dr.  Byles  to  his  companion,  "you  can  observe-a-tory"  At 
another  time,  when  Dr.  Byles  was  bowed  with  the  infirmities 
of  years,  Dr.  Harris,  of  Dorchester,  called  upon  him,  and  found 
him  sitting  in  an  arm-chair.  "Doctor,"  said  the  aged  punster, 
"you  will  excuse  my  rising;  I  am  not  one  of  the  rising  gener- 

*  Sabine's  Loyalists. 


414  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

ation."  In  his  last  illness  lie  was  visited  by  Eev.  "William 
Montague,  rector  "of  Christ  Church,  and  Eev.  Dr.  Parker, 
rector  of  Trinity.  Dr.  Parker  approached  the  sick  man's  bed- 
side, and  asked  him  how  he  felt.  "  I  feel,"  said  the  inveterate 
joker,  "  that  I  am  going  where  there  are  no  bishops." 

The  two  following  verses,  addressed  to  Dr.  Byles,  are  from  a 
poetical  description  of  the  Boston  clergy,  which  appeared  about 
1774.  It  contained  thirty-seven  stanzas,  and  was  the  rage  of 
the  town.  Green,  Trumbull,  Dr.  Church,  and  Dexter  of  Ded- 
ham  were  all  charged  with  the  authorship. 

"  There  's  punning  Byles,  provokes  our  smiles, 
A  man  of  stately  parts  ; 
Who  visits  folks  to  crack  his  jokes, 
That  never  mend  their  hearts. 

"  With  strutting  gait  and  wig  so  great, 
He  walks  along  the  streets, 
And  throws  out  wit,  or  what 's  like  it, 
To  every  one  he  meets." 

The  original  name  of  Hollis  Street  was  Harvard.  Street 
and  church  were  named  for  Thomas  Hollis,  an  eminent  Lon- 
don merchant,  and  benefactor  of  Harvard  College.  Hollis 
Street  appears  on  a  map  of  1775,  continued  in  a  straight  line 
to  Cambridge  (Back)  Bay.  The  growth  of  this  part  of  Boston 
had,  by  1730,  called  for  a  place  of  worship  nearer  than  Sum- 
mer Street.  Governor  Belcher,  who  was  then  a  resident  in 
the  vicinity,  gave  the  land  for  a  site,  and  a  small  wooden 
meeting-house,  thirty  by  forty  feet,  was  erected  in  1732.  The 
first  minister  was  Rev.  Mather  Byles.  A  bell  weighing  800 
pounds  was  given  by  a  nephew  of  the  Thomas  Hollis  for  whom 
the  church  was  named,  and  was  placed  in  the  steeple  on  its 
arrival.  This  bell  began  the  joyful  peal  at  one  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  the  19th  of  May,  1766,  as  nearest  to  Liberty  Tree, 
and  was  answered  by  Christ  Church  from  the  other  extremity 
of  the  town,  announcing  the  Stamp  Act  Pepeal.  The  steeples 
were  hung  with  flags,  and  Liberty  Tree  decorated  with  banners. 

The  church  was  destroyed  by  the  great  fire  of  1787,  but  the 
society,  nothing  daunted,  reared  another  wooden  edifice  in  the 


LIBERTY   TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD. 


415 


HOLLIS   STREET    CHURCH. 


year  following,  of  which  we  present  an  engraving.  It  was 
erected  upon  the  same  spot  as  the  former  church,  but  had.  un- 
like it,  two  towers  instead  of  a  steeple.  Charles  Bulfinch  was 
the  architect,  and  Josiah  Wheeler  the  builder.  This  building 
was  removed  in  1810,  to  give 
place  to  the  present  edifice, 
and  was  floated  on  a  raft  down 
the  harbor  to  East  Braintree, 
where  Rev.  Jonas  Perkins 
preached  in  it  forty-seven 
years.  Though  recently  re- 
arranged, it  remains  substan- 
tially the  same  as  when  it 
was  one  of  the  chief  orna- 
ments of  the  town  of  Boston. 

The  steeple  of  Hollis  Street  reaches  an  altitude  of  nearly 
two  hundred  feet,  and  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  objects 
seen  from  the  harbor.  This  is  the  church  of  "West,  Holley, 
Pierpont,  and  Starr  King.  Singularly  enough,  the  church  has 
lost  by  death,  while  in  the  service  of  the  church,  but  a  single 
one  of  its  pastors  (Dr.  Samuel  West)  since  its  organization. 
Rev.  John  Pierpont,  one  of  our  native  poets,  was  first  a  lawyer, 
and  then  a  merchant.  In  the  late  civil  war,  though  past  Ins 
"threescore  and  ten,"  he  joined  a  Massachusetts  regiment  as 
chaplain.  He  died  at  Medford,  in  18G6,  while  holding  a  clerk- 
ship in  the  Treasury  Department  at  Washington.  Thomas  Stan- 
King  was  but  twenty-four  when  he  assumed  the  pastorate  of 
Hollis  Street,  and  after  twelve  years  of  service  removed  t"  San 
Francisco,  where  he  bore  a  prominent  part  in  arraying  Cali- 
fornia in  active  sympathy  with  the  North  during  the  civil  war. 
A  number  of  works  have  emanated  from  the  pen  of  this  gifted 
and  lamented  author  and  divine,  of  which  the  White  Hills  is 
perhaps  the  best  known,  and  most   enjoyable. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  in  only  two  instances  the  (Han- 
over Street  Methodist  and  Hollis  Street)  have  three  churches 
been  erected  on  the  same  spot  in  Boston.  The  New  North, 
Old  South,  Brattle  Square,  Bromlield  Street,  Bulfinch  street. 


41 G  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

West,  Baldwin  Place,  Phillips,  Maverick,  and  Trinity  churches, 
Baptist  Bethel,  and  King's  Chapel,  are  the  second*  edifices  on 
the  same  site. 

Zachariah  Whitman,  in  his  History  of  the  Ancient  and  Hon- 
orahle  Artillery,  says,  — 

"  The  erection  of  pews  on  the  ground-floor  of  meeting-houses  was 
a  New  England  invention.  Some  of  the  first  meeting-houses  in 
Boston  that  had  pews  had  no  broad  or  other  aisle,  but  were  entered 
from  without  by  a  door,  the  owner  keeping  the  key." 

The  tablets  in  Hollis  Street  Church  bearing  the  Ten  Com- 
mandments were  the  gift  of  Benjamin  Bussey. 

The  terrible  fire  of  1787  laid  waste  the  whole  of  the  region 
around  Hollis  Street.  It  commenced  in  William  Patten's  malt- 
house  in  Beach  Street,  extending  with  great  rapidity  in  a 
southerly  direction.  The  spire  of  Hollis  Street  Church  soon 
took  fire  from  the  burning  flakes  carried  through  the  air,  and 
the  church  was  burnt  to  the  ground.  Both  sides  of  Washing- 
ton Street,  from  Eliot  to  Common  on  the  west,  and  from  Beach 
to  a  point  opposite  Common  Street  on  the  east,  were  laid  in 
ruins.  This  fire  cost  the  town  a  hundred  houses,  of  which 
sixty  were  dwellings.  Subscriptions  were  set  on  foot  for  the 
sufferers,  and  the  Marquis  Lafayette,  Math  characteristic  gener- 
osity, gave  £  350  sterling  towards  the  relief  of  the  sufferers. 

The  British,  it  is  said,  on  their  retreat  from  the  works  on  the 
N/eck  left  a  rear-guard  at  Hollis  Street,  who  had  orders,  if  the 
Americans  broke  through  the  tacit  convention  between  Wash- 
ington and  Howe,  to  fire  a  train  laid  to  Hollis  Street  Church, 
which  had  served  them  as  a  barrack.  This  guard,  after  remain- 
ing a  short  time  at  their  post,  took  to  their  heels,  and  scampered 
off  under  the  impression  that  the  Yankees  were  close  upon 
them. 

We  conclude  our  chapter  with  a  visit  to  another  poet, 
Charles  Sprague,  now  in  his  eighty-first  year,  who  resides,  in 
the  evening  of  his  life,  at  N/o.  636,  on  the  east  side  of  Wash- 
ington Street,  in  a  substantial  old-fashioned  house. 

It  has  been  stated  that  the  oration  which  Mr.  Sprague  de- 
livered July  4th,  1825,  before  the  city  authorities  was  afterwards 


LIBERTY  TREE   AND   THE   NEIGHBORHOOD.  417 

effectively  used  on  a  similar  occasion  as  an  original  production 
by  a  Western  Cicero,  who  might  have  worn  his  laurels  undis- 
covered had  he  not  in  an  unguarded  moment  furnished  a  copy 
for  the  press. 

Mr.  Sprague  went  to  the  Franklin  SchoQl  when  Lemuel 
Shaw,  the  late  Chief  Justice,  was  usher  there.  He  became  con- 
nected with  the  State  Bank  in  1820,  and  subsequently  cashier 
of  the  Globe  when  that  bank  was  organized.  His  first  poetical 
essay,  by  which  his  name  came  before  the  public,  was  a  prize 
prologue,  delivered  at  the  opening  of  the  Park  Theatre,  New 
York,  of  which  the  following  is  an  extract  :  — 

"  The  Stage  !  where  Fancy  sits,  creative  queen, 
And  waves  her  sceptre  o'er  life's  mimic  scene  ; 
Where  young-eyed  Wonder  conies  to  feast  his  sight, 
And  quaff  instruction  while  he  drinks  delight. 
The  Stage  !  that  threads  each  labyrinth  of  the  soul, 
Wakes  laughter's  peal,  and  bids  the  tear-drop  roll  ; 
That  shoots  at  Folly,  mocks  proud  Fashion's  slave, 
Uncloaks  the  hypocrite,  and  brands  the  knave." 


18 


418  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

THE    NECK   AND    THE    FORTIFICATIONS. 

The  Neck  described.  —  Measures  to  protect  the  Road.  —  Paving  the  Neck. 

—  Henry  T.  Tuckerman.  —  Old  Houses  vs.  Modern.  — Massachusetts  Mint. 

—  The  Gallows.  —  Anecdote  of  Warren.  —  Executions.  —  Early  Fortifica- 
tions. —  The  British  Works  and  Armament.  ■ —  American  Works.  — George 
Tavern.  —  Washington's  Staff.  —  His  Personal  Traits.  —  Washington 
House.  —  Washington  Hotel.  —  Anecdotes  of  George  Tavern.  —  Scarcity 
of  Powder.  —  Continental  Flags.  —  Entry  of  Washington's  Army.  ■— 
Entry  of  Rochambeau's  Army.  —  Paul  Jones. 

WE  have  conducted  the  reader  through  all  of  Colonial 
Boston  embraced  within  the  peninsula,  and  are  now  to 
survey  the  harrier  which  the  colonists  raised  against  the  power 
of  the  mighty  British  Empire.  The  more  we  examine  the 
resources  and  state  of  preparation  of  the  people,  the  more  we 
are  astonished  at  the  hardihood  with  which  a  mere  collection 
of  the  yeomanry  of  the  country,  without  any  pretension  to  the 
name  of  an  army,  sat  down  before  the  gates  of  the  town  of 
Boston,  and  compelled  the  haughty  Britons  to  retire  from  her 
profaned  temples  and  ruined  hearthstones. 

A  strip  of  territory  lying  along  the  great  avenue  to  the  main- 
land still  retains  the  appellation  of  "  The  Neck."  Long  may 
the  only  battle-ground  within  our  ancient  limits  preserve  the 
name  by  which  it  was  known  to  Winthrop  and  to  Washington. 
All  Boston  proper  was  once  styled  "  The  Neck,"  in  distinction 
from  Noddle's  Island,  Brookline,  and  other  territory  included 
within  the  jurisdiction.  The  peninsula  outgrowing  her  de- 
pendencies, the  name  attached  itself  to  the  narrow  isthmus 
connecting  with  the  mainland. 

The  Neck  may  be  said  to  have  begun  at  Beach  Street,  where 
was  its  greatest  breadth,  diminishing  to  its  narrowest  point  at 
Dover  Street,  increasing  gradually  in  width  to  the  neighborhood 


THE   NECK  AND   THE    FORTIFICATIONS.  419 

of  Dedham  Street,  thence  expanding  in  greater  proportion  to 
the  line  at  the  present  car  stables  nearly  opposite  Metropolitan 
Place.  The  Neck,  according  to  its  designation  in  Revolution- 
ary times,  was  that  part  lying  south  of  Dover  Street. 

Captain  Nathaniel  Uring,  in  his  account  of  his  visit  to  Bos- 
ton in  1710,  printed  in  London  in  172G,  says  :  — 

"The  Neck  of  Land  betwixt  the  city  and  country  is  about  forty 
yards  bi'oad,  and  so  low  that  the  spring  tides  sometimes  wash  the 
road,  which  might,  with  little  charge,  be  made  so  strong  as  not  to  be 
forced,  there  being  no  way  of  coming  at  it  by  land  but  over  that 
Neck." 

Whether  what  constituted  old  Boston  was  at  one  time  an 
island,  or  was  becoming  one  by  the  wasting  forces  of  the  ele- 
ments, is  an  interesting  question  for  geologists.  We  know  that 
for  nearly  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  scarcely  any  change  had 
taken  place  in  the  appearance  of  the  Neck  ;  but  the  action  of 
the  town  authorities  seems  to  indicate  a  fear  that  its  existence 
was  seriously  threatened. 

Within  the  recollection  of  persons  now  living  the  water  has 
been  known  to  stand  up  to  the  knees  of  horses  in  the  season 
of  full  tides  at  some  places  in  the  road,  on  the  Neck.  The 
narrowest  part  was  naturally  the  most  exposed,  as  it  was  the 
most  eligible  also  for  fortifying.  At  some  points  along  the 
beach  there  was*  a  good  depth  of  water,  and  Gibben's  shipyard 
was  located  on  the  easterly  side  a  short  distance  north  of  1  ►over 
Street  as  early  as  1722,  and  as  late  as  1777.  Other  portions, 
on  both  sides  of  the  Neck,  were  bordered  by  marshes,  more 
or  less  extensive,  covered  at  high   tides. 

Wharves  were  built  at  intervals  along  the  eastern  shore, 
from  Beach  to  Dover  Street.  In  front  of  these  wharves  dwell- 
ings and  stores  were  erected,  lacing  what  is  now  Washington 
Street.  Josiah  Knapp's  dwelling,  recently  removed  from  the 
corner  of  Kneeland  Street,  was  one  of  these,  his  wharf  being 
so  near  the  street  that  the  passers-by  complained  thai  the  bow- 
sprits of  his  vessels  unlading  there  obstructed  the  highway. 

In  the  spring  the  road  upon  the  Neck  was  almost  impassable, 
especially  before  the  centre  was  paved,  which  was  from  neces- 


420  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

sity  done  at  last,  but  with  such  large  stones  that  the  pavement 
was  always  avoided,  by  vehicles  as  long  as  the  old  road  was 
practicable. 

Measures  began  to  be  very  early  considered  to  protect  the 
Neck  from  the  violence  of  the  sea.  In  1708  the  town  granted 
a  number  of  individuals  all  the  tract  included  within  Castle  and 
a  point  a  little  north  of  Dover  Street,  conditioned  upon  the 
completion  of  a  highway  and  erection  of  certain  barriers  to 
"  secure  and  keep  off  the  sea."  A  second  grant  was  made 
nearly  eighty  years  later  for  a  like  purpose,  extending  from  the 
limits  of  the  first  grant  to  a  point  a  little  beyond  the  former 
estate  of  John  D.  Williams,  Esq.,  where  the  Cathedral  now 
stands.  From  this  beginning  dates  the  reclamation  of  that 
extensive  area  now  covered  in  every  direction  with  superb 
public  edifices  or  private  mansions. 

A  dike  was  built  on  the  exposed  eastward  side,  crossing  the 
marshes  to  the  firm  ground  on  the  Roxbury  shore,  before  the 
Revolution,  which  traversed  both  the  British  and  American 
works  on  the  Neck.  This  followed  in  general  direction  the 
extension  of  Harrison  Avenue.  A  sea-wall  was  built  about 
the  same  time  on  the  west  side,  for  some  distance  south  from 
the  bridge  at  Dover  Street,  nearly  as  far  as  Waltham  Street. 
In  a  word,  the  general  appearance  of  the  Neck  sixty  years  ago, 
to  a  spectator  placed  at  the  Old  Fortifications,  was  similar  to 
the  turnpikes  crossing  the  Lynn  marshes  to-day,  and  was  deso- 
late and  forbidding  in  the  extreme,  especially  to  a  nocturnal 
traveller. 

From  the  old  fortifications,  northwardly,  the  highway  was 
called  Orange  Street  as  early  as  1708.  "Washington  Street  was 
named  after  the  memorable  visit  of  the  General  in  1789,  and  at 
first  extended  only  from  near  Dover  Street  to  Roxbury  line  ; 
the  name  Avas  not  applied  to  the  whole  extent  of  the  present 
thoroughfare  until  1824,  when  Cornhill,  Marlborough,  New- 
bury, and  Orange  became  one  in  name  as  well  as  in  fact. 

Few  of  the  thousands  who  daily  traverse  the  Neck,  with  its 
street-cars,  omnibuses,  and  private  equipages  following  each 
other  in  rapid  succession,  can  realize  that  travellers  were  once 


THE   NECK   AND   THE   FORTIFICATIONS.  421 

in  great  danger  of  losing  their  way  along  the  narrow  natural 
causeway  and  its  adjacent  marshes.  Yet  so  frequent  had  such 
accidents  become  that  not  only  the  town  but  the  General  Court 
took  action  in  1723  to  have  the  dangerous  road  fenced  in. 

The  Neck  marshes  were  a  favorite  resort  for  birds,  and  were 
much  frequented  by  sportsmen.  It  is  related  that  Sir  Charles 
and  Lady  Frankland  one  day  narrowly  escaped  being  shot  as 
they  were  passing  over  the  highway.  In  1785  the  town  of 
Jioxbury  was  obliged  to  place  sentinels  here  to  prevent  the 
desecration  of  the  Sabbath.  The' meadows  continued  in  much 
later  times  to  be  a  resort  for  this  purpose. 

The  Neck  was  paved  quite  early  in  the  last  century,  accord- 
ing to  the  fashion  we  have  described  elsewhere.  In  1757  the 
General  Court  authorized  a  lottery  to  raise  funds  for  paving  and 
repairing  the  highway.  The  forty-two  rods  of  Orange  Street, 
mentioned  as  having  been  ordered  paved  in  1715,  were  probably 
the  portion  nearest  the  town,  but  it  was  paved  in  1775  as  far 
as  the  British  works.  The  whole  Neck  was  paved  under  the 
mayoralty  of  Josiah  Quincy. 

In  colonial  times  the  fortification  which  was  raised  a  little 
south  of  Dover  Street  was  the  limit  of  the  town,  —  all  beyond 
was  nearly  in  its  primitive  condition.  In  1794  there  were  but 
eighteen  buildings  between  Dover  Street  and  the  line.  In 
1 800  there  were  not  more  than  one  or  two  houses  from  the  site 
of  the  new  Catholic  Cathedral  to  Roxbury.  The  few  buildings 
standing  between  the  American  and  British  lines  were  burnt 
during  the  siege,  and  only  two  barns  and  three  small  houses 
were  then  left  on  what  was  properly  termed  tin-  Neck. 

A  few  doors  north  of  Dover  Street,  on  the  easterly  side  of 
what  was  then  old  Orange  Street,  was  the  home  of  the  favorite 
author  and  poet,  Henry  T.  Tuckerman.  The  house  was  struck 
during  the  siege  by  a  shot  from  the  American  lines.  Mr.  Tuck- 
erman has  contributed  largely  to  our  literature  both  in  verse 
and  prose,  as  an  .essayist,  critic,  biographer,  and  accomplished 
traveller.  He  was  also  well  known  through  his  article-  in  OUT 
leading  magazines.  As  a  poet,  his  "  Rome"  gives  a  good  sam- 
ple of  his  style. 


422 


LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 


"  A  terrace  lifts  above  the  People's  Square 
Its  colonnade  ; 
About  It  lies  the  warm  and  crystal  air, 
And  fir-trees'  shade." 

This  house,  like  most  of  those  on  our  main  avenue  in  the 
beginning  of  the  century,  stood  end  to  the  street,  which  gave 
a  singular  impression  to  a  stranger,  and  recalls  the  following 
quaint  description  of  Albany  by  old  Jedediah  Morse,  which 
has  given  rise  to  a  witticism  on  the  peculiarity  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  that  town  :  — 

"  This  city  and  suburbs,  by  enumeration  in  1797,  contained  1,263 
buildings,  of  which  863  were  dwelling-houses,  and  6,021  inhabitants. 
Many  of  them  are  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  the  gable  end  to  the 
street,  which  custom  the  first  settlers  brought  from  Holland  ;  the 
new  houses  are  built,  in  the  modern  style." 

The  only  purpose  of  utility  for  which  the  Neck  was  formerly 
used,  except  perhaps  the  grazing  afforded  by  the  marshes  along 
the  causeway,  was  for  brick- making.  There  were  brickyards 
north  of  Dover  Street,  as  well  as  south,  before  the  Revolution. 
These  gave  employment  to  many  poor  people  during  the  con- 
tinuance of  the  Port  Act.  In  this  connection  we  may  mention 
the  total  absence  of  building-stone  of  any  kind  on  the  site  of 
original  Boston.  The  principal  elevations  have  been  either 
wholly  or  partially  removed  without  encountering  a  ledge  of 
any  description. 

In  October,  1786,  the  State  of  Massachusetts,  being  greatly 
in  want  of  a  specie  currency,  passed  an  act  to  establish  a  mint 

for  the  coinage 
of  copper,  sdver, 
and  gold.  This 
was  one  of  the 
powers  of  sover- 
eignty which  the 
States  continued 
to  exercise  under 
the    old    "Arti- 

MASSACHUSETTS   CENT   OF   17S7.  ££      Qf      Coilf&l- 

eration."     Joshua  "Wetherle  was  appointed  master  of  the  mint 


THE  NECK  AND  THE  FOKTIFICATIONS.       423 

in  May,  1787,  and  authorized  to  erect  the  necessary  works  and 
machinery.  $70,000  in  cents  and  half-cents  were  ordered  to 
be  struck  as  soon  as  practicable. 

Wetherle  established  his  works  on  the  ISeck,  in  the  rear  of 
what  is  now  Rollins  Street,  and  at  Dedham,  the  copper  being 
first  carted  to  Dedham  to  be  rolled,  and  then  brought  back  to 
Boston  to  be  coined.  In  July,  1787,  the  national  government 
established  the  devices  of  its  copper  coin. 

Early  in  1788  the  copper  coin  ordered  by  the  State  began  to 
be  issued,  but  only  a  few  thousand  dollars  of  the  large  amount 
ordered  were  put  in  circulation  before  the  work  was  suspended 
by  the  State  in  consequence  of  the  adoption  of  the  Federal 
Constitution,  which  reserved  the  right  to  coin  money  to  the 
general  government.  The  emblems  on  the  Massachusetts  cent 
and  half-cent  were  the  same.  One  side  bore  the  American 
eagle  with  a  bundle  of  arrows  in  the  right  talon  and  an  olive- 
branch  in  the  left,  with  a  shield  on  the  breast,  on  which  is  the 
word  "  cent  "  ;  the  word  "  Massachusetts  "  encircling  the  bor- 
der. The  reverse  represents  a  full-length  Indian  grasping  Ins 
bow  and  arrow,  but,  as  Mr.  Felt  remarks,  considerably  improved 
in  appearance  since  he  appeared  on  the  colony  seal.  A  star 
appears  near  the  head,  as  in  the  State  seal,  emblematic  of  one 
of  the  United  States,  and  the  word  "  Commonwealth  "  com- 
pletes the  device. 

The  first  object  which  arrested  the  attention  of  the  traveller 
as  he  journeyed  towards  <  Md  Boston  was  the  gallows,  standing 
as  a  monument  of  civilization  at  the  gates.  It  was  at  first 
situated  near  the  old  fortification  on  the  easterly  side  of  the 
Keck,  but  stood  at  a  later  period  not  far  from  the  site  of  the  St. 
James  Hotel. 

A  characteristic  anecdote  is  relate. 1  of  Dr.  Warren  in  connec- 
tion with  the  gallows.  It  is  said  that  as  he  was  one  day  passing 
the  spot  he  met  some  British  officers,  one  of  whom  exclaimed, 
"Go  on,  Warren,  you  will  soon  come  to  the  gallows."  Warren 
immediately  turned  back  and  demanded  to  knew  which  of  them 
had  thus  accosted  him,  but  neither  of  the  warriors  had  the 
courage  to  avow  it. 


'424  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

Here  were  hanged  the  pirates  John  Williams,  Francis  Fred- 
erick, John  P.  Rog,  and  Niles  Peterson,  in  1819  ;  and  in  the 
following  year  Michael  Powers  was  also  executed  for  the  mur- 
der of  Timothy  Kennedy.  Perez  Morton  was  then  district- 
attorney.  Powers  was  defended  by  Daniel  "Webster,  but  was 
•convicted,  on  an  unbroken  chain  of  circumstantial  evidence, 
of  having  murdered  and  then  buried  his  victim  in  a  cellar. 

The  defences  of  Boston  very  early  engaged  the  attention  of 
the  settlers.  Fort  Hill  was  fortified  as  early  as  1634,  and  steps 
were  taken  to  build  a  work  on  Castle  Island  in  the  same  year. 
It  is  reasonable  to  conclude  that  the  protection  of  the  land  side 
received  even  earlier  attention,  the  danger  being  more  imminent. 
The  Indians  in  the  neighborhood  were,  as  a  general  thing, 
friendly,  but  were  not  trusted,  and  a  guard  of  an  officer  and  six 
men  was  placed  on  the  Neck,  by  order  of  the  court,  in  April, 
1631.  We  cannot,  however,  fix  the  date  with  precision,  though 
a  barrier  was  certainly  erected  prior  to  1640.  The  gates  of  the 
old  fortification  were  constantly  guarded,  and  were  shut  by  a 
certain  hour  in  the  evening,  after  which  none  were  allowed  to 
pass  in  or  out. 

The  primitive  barrier  had  disappeared  before  1710,  the 
broken  power  of  the  Indians  leaving  nothing  to  apprehend 
from  that  quarter.  In  this  year  the  town  voted  that  a  line  of 
defence  be  forthwith  made  across  the  Neck,  between  Boston 
and  Roxbury.  A  suitable  number  of  great  guns  were  ordered 
to  be  mounted,  and  a  gate  erected  across  the  road.  The  foun- 
dation of  this  work  was  of  stone  and  brick,  with  parapet  of 
earth ;  part  of  what  was  considered  to  be  the  remains  of  the 
old  fort  was  uncovered  in  1860,  when  excavations  were  making 
in  the  street,  just'south  of  Williams  Market. 

In  September,  1774,  when  matters  were  approaching  a  crisis 
between  the  people  and  the  King's  troops,  Gage  began  to  fortify 
the  Neck.  The  remains  of  the  old  works  were  strengthened, 
guns  mounted,  and  earthworks  thrown  up  some  distance  in 
advance  of  these  on  both  sides  of  the  highway.  The  armament 
at  first  consisted  of  two  twenty-four  and  eight  nine  pounders. 
The  first  troops  stationed  by  Gage  in  this  quarter  were  the 


THE   NECK   AND   THE   FORTIFICATIONS.  425 

59th  regiment,  which  arrived  from  Salem  September  2,  and 
encamped  on  the  Neck.  On  the  4th  four  pieces  of  field  artil- 
lery were  taken  from  the  Common  and  placed  in  Iron!  of  the 
troops,  fatigue  parties  from  which  went  to  work  upon  the  in- 
trenchments.  By  midwinter  the  ordinary  garrison  was  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  with  a  field-officer  in  command.  This 
force  was  increased  before  the  battle  of  Lexington  to  three 
hundred  and  forty  men.  A  deep  fosse,  into  which  the  tide 
flowed  at  high  water,  was  dug  in  front  of  the  Dover  Street  fort, 
converting  Boston  for  the  time  into  two  islands. 

In  July,  177"),  when  the  siege  had  fairly  begun,  the  work 
nearest  the  town  mounted  eight  twenty-four,  six  twelve,  two 
nine,  and  seven  six  pounder  guns,  and  was  called  during  the 
siege  "  The  Green  Store  Battery,"  from  the  warehouse  of 
Deacon  Brown,  painted  that  color,  which  stood  on  the  site  of 
the  Williams  Market.  The  advanced  work,  which  was  much 
the  stronger,  mounted  eight  twenty-four,  four  twelve,  one 
nine,  and  seven  six  pounders,  with  six  eight-inch  howitzers, 
and  a  mortar  battery.  The  road  passed  directly  through  the 
centre  of  both  lines,  the  first  being  closed  by  a  gate  and  draw- 
bridge. The  redan  was  flanked  by  a  bastion  on  each  side  of 
the  highway,  from  which  the  lines  were  continued  across  the 
intervening  marshes  to  the,  sea.  Floating  batteries,  abattis, 
trous-de-loup,  and  other  appliances  known  to  military  science, 
were  not  wanting.  Two  guard-houses  were  on  either  side  of 
the  road  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  advanced  post,  while  a 
third  and  smaller  work,  lying  between  the  others  on  the  eastern 
sea-margin,  bore  on  Dorchester  Neck,  and  took  the  left  curtain 
and  bastion  of  the  main  work  in  reverse.  Above  all  waved  the 
standard  of  England. 


BRITISH    LUTES  ON    Huston   NECK    IN   1775. 


The  position  of  the  main   British   work,  vestiges  of  which 
were  distinctly  visible  as  late  as  1822,  particularly  on  tin'  west 


426  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

side  of  the  Neck,  was  between  Dedham  and  Canton  Streets. 
Mounds,  ramparts,  and  wide  ditches  yet  attested  the  strength 
of  the  defences  which  Washington  deemed  too  formidable  to 
be  carried  by  assault.  Remains  of  planks  and  poles  used  to 
support  the  embankment  of  what  may  have  been  one  of  the 
bastions  were  discovered  many  years  since  in  digging  the  cellar 
of  Edward  D.  Peters's  house  on  the  north  corner  of  Canton  and 
Washington  Streets.  Mr.  John  Griggs,  whose  recollections  of 
the  Xeck  go  back  more  than  half  a  century,  remembers  traces 
of  the  intrenchments  on  the  east  side,  where  we  have  located 
them.  The  visitor  to  the  spot  will  not  fail  to  observe  that 
from  this  point  the  first  unobstructed  view  is  obtained  in  front 
as  far  as  Washington  Market. 

By  Washington's  order  Colonel  Gridley  rendered  these  works 
useless  as  soon  as  the  Continental  army  moved  to  New  York, 
so  that  if  the  enemy,  whose  fleet  was  still  on  the  coast,  should 
suddenly  repossess  themselves  of  Boston,  they  might  not  find 
the  old  defences  available.  From  this  stronghold  Gage,  Howe, 
Clinton,  and  Burgoyne  grimly  marked  the  rising  intrenchments 
of  the  Americans  three  quarters  of  a  mile  away,  or  listened  to 
the  roll  of  the  drums  that  greeted  the  approach  of  their  chief- 
tain as  he  made  his  daily  tour  of  the  hostile  lines.  Gage  at 
one  time  appears  to  have  intrusted  the  defence  of  his  lines  on 
the  Neck  to  Lord  Percy. 

Colonel  Trumbull,  afterwards  one  of  Washington's  military 
family,  but  then  belonging  to  a  Connecticut  regiment,  first 
brought  himself  to  the  notice  of  the  general  by  a  daring  ex- 
ploit. Learning  that  a  plan  of  the  enemy's  works  was  greatly 
desired  at  headquarters,  he  crept  near  enough  to  them  to  make 
a  drawing,  with  which  he  returned  to  camp.  For  this  act  he 
was  appointed  aide-de-camp.  A  British  soldier  of  artillery  soon 
after  came  into  the  American  lines  with  a  plan  of  the  hostile 
forts.  From  the  time  of  the  investment  until  the  siege  was 
raised,  rigid  martial  law  prevailed  in  Boston,  with  sentinels 
posted  at  all  important  points,  patrols  traversing  the  streets, 
and  a  town  major  at  the  head  of  police  affairs. 

Here  Gage  remained  ignobly  shut  up,  attempting  nothing 


THE   NECK   AND   THE   FORTIFICATIONS.  427 

after  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  but  a  few  marauding  excursions 
along  the  coast  in  search  of  fresh  provisions.  His  extremities 
are  ludicrously  set  forth  by  that  inimitable  Revolutionary  poet, 
Philip  Freneau.  The  scene  is  a  midnight  consultation  at  the 
general's  quarters. 

"  The  clock  strikes  two  !  —  Gage  smote  upon  his  breast, 
And  cry'd,  —  '  What  fate  determines  must  be  best  — 
But  now  attend  —  a  counsel  I  impart 
That  long  has  laid  the  heaviest  at  my  heart  — 
Three  weeks  —  ye  gods  !   nay,  three  long  years  it  seems  — 
Since  roast-beef  1  have  touch'd,  except  in  dreams. 
In  sleep,  choice  dishes  to  my  view  repair  ; 
Waking,  I  gape  and  champ  the  empty  air.  — 
Say,  is  it  just  that  I,  who  rule  these  bands, 
Should  live  on  husks,  like  rakes  in  foreign  lands  ? " 

The  space  between  the  opposing  works  became  a  battle- 
ground for  the  skirmishing  parties  of  the  two  armies,  cadi  of 
which  had  pickets  in  their  front,  covered  by  slight  intrench- 
ments.  A  short  distance  in  advance  of  the  British  works  on  the 
west  side  of  the  highway  were  the  house  and  barns  of  a  Mr. 
Brown,  which  served  the  British  admirably  as  a  post  from 
which  to  annoy  our  men.  This  was  the  house  at  which  Bur- 
goyne  proposed  to  meet  Charles  Lee,  to  discuss  the  differences 
between  the  colonies  and  the  mother  country.  Congress,  how- 
ever, put  a  veto  on  a  proceeding  neither  military  nor  diplo- 
matic. On  the  8th  of  July  (177.r))  Majors  Tapper  ami  Crane 
surprised  the  guard  and  destroyed  the  house  and  out-buildings. 
The  bare  chimneys  remained  standing,  and  to  some  extent  af- 
forded a  protection  to  the  enemy. 

After  the  battle  of  Lexington  the  Americans  at  firsl  merely 
guarded  the  passage  of  the  Neck  with  a  small  force  under 
Colonel  IJobinson,  or  until  the  Provincial  Congress  took  meas- 
ures to  organize  an  army,  and  regular  military  operations  were 
undertaken. 

No  intrenchments  appear  to  have  been  thrown  up  on  the 
Neck  by  the  Continental  forces  until  after  the  battle  of  Bun- 
ker Hill,  when  the  famous  Roxbury  lines  were  laid  oul  by 
Colonel  Richard  Gridley,  the  veteran  of  Louisburg,  Quebec,  and 
Bunker  Hill,  now  chief-engineer  id'  the  army. 


428  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

From  the  best  evidence  to  be  obtained  these  lines  were 
situated  on  the  rising  ground  a  little  north  of  the  old  monu- 
ment on  the  line  of  division  between  Boston  and  Roxbury,  and 
near  Clifton  Place.  An  abattis  was  formed  of  trees  felled  with 
the  tops  pointed  towards  Boston,  as  an  obstacle  to  the  much- 
dreaded  Light  Horse,  —  a  needless  precaution,  for  this  choice 
band  of  heroes  never  appeared  outside  their  defences.  The 
embankments  were  strengthened  with  planks  filled  between 
with  earth.  The  works  were  bastioned,  and  rested  with  either 
flank  on  arms  of  the  sea. 

The  American  advanced  post  was  first  at  the  George  Tavern, 
which  stood  a  little  south  of  the  site  of  the  present  Washington 
Market,  and  was  burnt  by  a  British  sally  on  the  night  of  Sun- 
day, July  30,  1775. 

The  George  Tavern,  sometimes  called  the  St.  George,  which 
we  have  had  occasion  to  mention  in  connection  with  the  recep- 
tions of  some  of  the  royal  governors,  was  included  in  an  estate 
of  more  than  eighteen  acres,  extending  nearly  or  quite  to  Rox- 
bury line  on  the  south  and  across  the  marshes  to  the  great 
creek,  which  formed  its  boundary  on  the  west.  It  had  or- 
chards, gardens,  and  a  site  which  commanded  a  view  of  the  town 
of  Boston  and  the  harbor  on  one  hand,  and  Cambridge  Bay 
with  the  shores  of  the  mainland  on  the  other.  ."While  it  re- 
mained, but  few  travellers  might  venture  over  the  gloomy 
Neck,  over  which  the  cold  winds  swept  with  violence,  without 
a  pause  under  its  hospitable  roof. 

The  George  is  noted  in  the  history  of  the  Colony  as  the 
place  of  meeting  of  the  General  Court  in  1721,  perhaps  on 
account  of  the  prevalence  of  the  small-pox  in  Boston  in  that 
year,  when  it  raged  with  frightful  violence.  In  1730,  while  it 
was  kept  by  Simon  Rogers,  the  Probate  Court  was  held  there. 
Rogers  continued  to  be  landlord  until  1734.  It  was  kept  at 
different  times  by  Gideon  Gardner  and  Samuel  Mears,  and  in 
1769  by  Edward  Bardin,  who  changed  the  name  to  the  King's 
Arms,  a  title  it  retained  but  a  short  time.  In  1788  a  tavern 
was  reopened  on  or  near  the  site  of  the  George,  but  was  not  of 
Ions  continuance. 


THE   NECK   AND   THE   FORTIFICATIONS.  429 

Before  the  destruction  of  the  tavern  the  Americans  threw  up 
a  work  a  little  below  where  it  had  stood,  and  within  musket- 
range  of  the  British  outpost.  To  this  point  it  was  Washington's 
daily  custom  to  proceed,  accompanied  by  his  personal  stall",  com- 
posed of  men  subsequently  famous  in  Revolutionary  annals. 
There  was  Mifflin,  first  aide-de-camp,  afterwards  governor  of 
Pennsylvania,  who,  as  president  of  the  Congress  in  1783,  re- 
ceived the  resignation  of  his  old  chief;  Joseph  Beed  of  Phila- 
delphia, his  trusted  friend  and  secretary ;  and  Horatio  Gates, 
whose  mditary  experience  enabled  him  to  fill  acceptably  the 
arduous  post  of  adjutant-general,  and  bring  a  little  order  out 
of  the  chaos  that  prevailed  in  the  American  camp. 

General  Washington's  uniform  at  this  time  was  "a  blue  coat 
with  buff-colored  facings,  a  rich  epaulet  on  each  shoulder, 
buff  under-dress,  and  an  elegant  small-sword;  a  black  cockade 
in  his  hat."  *  It  was  at  this  point,  from  which  he  had,  in  1  775, 
daily  viewed  the  inactivity  of  his  enemy  with  a  surprise  he  has 
not  concealed  in  his  letters,  that  the  general,  in  1789,  then 
become  President,  mounted  his  famous  white  charger,  a  present 
from  Charles  IV.  of  Spain,  and,  attended  by  his  secretaries, 
Colonel  Lear  and  Major  Jackson,  made  his  last  entry  into  Bos- 
ton. 

Probably  no  great  personage  has  ever  lived  whose  career  has 
afforded  fewer  anecdotes  to  his  hiographer  then  General  Wash- 
ington. The  calm  dignity  of  his  manner  repelled  every  at- 
tempt at  familiarity,  but  this  dignity  was  in  no  way  associated 
•with  hauteur.  It  is  related  that  Gouverneur  Morris,  having 
undertaken  once  the  hazardous  experiment  of  accosting  the 
President  unceremoniously,  declared  that  nothing  would  induce 
him  to  repeat  the  attempt.  The  French  officers  who  served 
with  Rochambeau  were  at  once  captivated  by  Washington's 
noble  presence  and  gracious  manner. 

The  Washington  Market  stands  on  the  site  of  the  Washing- 
ton House,  in  which  Mrs.  Rowsoi)  once  kept  her  Bchool  for 
young  ladies,  and  which,  under  the  control  of  the  Cooleys, 
father  and  son,  became  a  much-frequented  resort   for  sleighing- 

*  Thaeher's  Military  Journal. 


430  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

parties,  when  the  Neck  was  the  course  to  which,  in  winter,  the 
beauty  and  fashion  of  the  town  repaired. 

Next  south  of  the  market  is  a  three-story  brick  building, 
kept  as  a  tavern  as  far  back  as  1820,  and  known  first  as  Wash- 
ington Hall,  and  subsequently  as  the  Washington  Hotel.  It 
was  kept  in  1837,  and  for  some  time  subsequently,  by  Amherst 
Eaton  of  Concert  Hall.  Both  of  these  houses  were  on  the 
George  Tavern  estate. 

In  1737  the  following  petition  was  presented  by  Stephen 
Minot  to  be  allowed  a  license  to  sell  liquors  at  his  tavern  on 
the  Neck  (supposed  to  be  the  George  Tavern).    It  was  allowed. 

"  That  your  petitioner  lately  met  with  very  heavy  losses  by  the 
way  of  the  sea  it  stands  him  hi  stead  to  put  his  estate  on  the  land 
to  the  best  improvement  he  possibly  can  in  a  way  of  Trade  &c. 
And  as  he  designs  to  keep  for  sale  a  variety  of  goods  suitable  for  the 
country,  So  he  apprehends  it  will  but  little,  avail  him  unless  he  may 
be  permitted  to  supply  his  customers  with  Rum  also,  because  they 
usually  chuse  to  take  up  all  they  want  at  one  place." 

Thacher,  who  was  a  surgeon  of  Colonel  Jackson's  regiment 
in  the  old  war,  relates  an  amusing  incident  of  the  arrival  of 
that  regiment  at  Boston  after  a  forced  march  from  Providence, 
B.  I.  :  — 

"  A  severe  rain  all  night  did  not  much  impede  our  march,  but  the 
troops  were  broken  down  with  fatigue.  We  reached  Boston  at  sun- 
rising,  and  near  the  entrance  of  the  Neck  is  a  tavern,  having  for  its 
sign  a  representation  of  a  globe,  with  a  man  in  the  act  of  struggling 
to  get  through  it  ;  his  head  and  shoulders  were  out,  his  arms  ex- 
tended, and  the  rest  of  his  body  enclosed  in  the  globe.  On  a  label 
from  his  mouth  was  written,  '  Oh  !  how  shall  I  get  through  this 
world  1 '  This  was  read  by  the  soldiers,  and  one  of  them  exclaimed, 
'List,  d— n  you,  list,  and  you  will  soon  get  through  this  world  ;  our 
regiment  will  be  through  it  in  an  hour  or  two  if  we  don't  halt  by 
the  way.' " 

The  scarcity  of  powder  within  the  American  lines  during  the 
siege  of  Boston  is  connected  Avith  an  incident  not  without 
interest.  At  first,  a  few  country  people  were  allowed  to  pass 
into  town  with  provisions,  after  undergoing  a  search  at  the 
British  post  at  the  Green  Store.    Market-wagons  were  but  little 


THE   NECK   AND    THE   FORTIFICATIONS.  431 

used,  the  farmers  riding  on  horseback  with  panniers  containing 
their  marketing.  George  Minot,  of  Dorchester,  from  his  fre- 
quent visits  was  well  known  to  the  guard,  who  allowed  him  to 
pass  without  examination.  Had  they  looked  into  the  honest 
man's  panniers,  they  would  have  found  them  well  filled  with 
"  villanous  saltpetre,"  which  he  was,  at  great  personal  risk, 
conveying  to  his  friends.  The  money  to  buy  the  powder  was 
furnished  by  Minot's  father,  John  Minot,  a  selectman  of  Dor- 
chester. The  government  afterwards  acknowledged  and  paid 
the  claim,  with  which  Minot  purchased  a  part  of  Thompson's 
Island. 

It  is  a  matter  of  history  that,  Avithin  musket-shot  of  twenty 
British  regiments,  Washington's  whole  army  was  disbanded 
and  reorganized;  it  is  no  less  true  that  in  August,  1775,  the 
entire  supply  of  powder  was  only  nine  rounds  per  man.  Wash- 
ington's letters  at  this  time  are  full  of  anxiety. 

The  flags  used  by  the  Americans  during  the  siege  of  Boston 
have  always  been  a  subject  of  much  interest.  The  flag  of  thir- 
teen stripes  was  first  raised  on  the  heights  near  Boston,  prob- 
ably at  or  near  the  commander-in-chief's  headquarters,  January 
2,  1776.  Letters  from  Boston  at  this  time  say  that  the  regulars 
did  not  understand  it ;  and,  as  the  king's  speech  had  just  been 
sent  to  the  Americans,  they  thought  the  new  Hag  was  a  token 
of  submission.  The  British  Annual  Register  of  177(i  says, 
more  correctly,  that  the  provincials  burnt  the  king's  speech,  and 
changed  their  colors  from  the  plain  red  ground  they  had  hith- 
erto used  to  a  flag  with  thirteen  stripes,  as  a  symbol  of  the 
number  and  union  of  the  colonies.  Tins  was,  without  doubt, 
the  flag  that,  on  the  17th  March,  177<'>,  waved  over  the  <  >ld 
State  House  and  Province  House,  and  was  borne  in  the  van  of 
the  American  troops. 

The  Pine  Tree,  Rattlesnake,  and  striped  flag  were  used  indis- 
criminately until  July,  1777,  when  the  blue  union,  with  the 
stars,  was  added  to  the  stripes,  ami  the  flag  established  by  law. 
The  private  arms  of  Washington,  bearing  three  stars  in  the 
upper  portion,  and  three  bars  across  the  escutcheon,  were 
thought  to  have  had  some  connection  with  the  flag,  bul  this 
does  not  appear  probable. 


432  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

"  Forever  float  that  standard  sheet  ! 

Where  breathes  the  foe  but  falls  before  us  ?    • 
With  freedom's  soil  beneath  our  feet, 

And  freedom's  banner  streaming  o'er  us  !  " 

The  first  troops  to  enter  the  town  after  the  evacuation  were 
five  hundred  men,  under  command  of  Colonel  Ebenezer  Learned, 
who  unbarred  and  opened  the  gates  of  the  British  works. 
General  Ward  accompanied  this  detachment.  They  found  the 
]STeck  thickly  scattered  with  "  crows'-feet "  to  impede  their  ad- 
vance. At  the  same  time  a  detachment  under  General  Putnam, 
with  whom  was  Colonel  John  Stark,  landed  at  the  foot  of  the 
Common,  and  to  the  old  wolf-hunter  belongs  the  honor  of  first 
commanding  in  Boston  as  the  successor  of  Sir  "William  Howe. 
On  the  20th  the  main  army  marched  in,  and  on  the  2 2d  such 
of  the  inhabitants  as  had  been  separated  from  their  friends 
during  the  ten  months'  siege  thronged  into  the  town.  Putnam 
took  possession  of  and  garrisoned  all  the  posts. 

Washington  himself  entered  Boston  the  day  after  the  evacu- 
ation, but,  as  the  small-pox  prevailed  in  town,  the  army  did 
not  march  in  until  the  20th,  as  stated.  By  Washington's  order, 
works  were  thrown  up  on  Fort  Hill,  and  those  defending  from 
the  country  were  demolished.  The  general  remained  ten  days 
in  Boston.  He  attended  the  meetings  of  the  Legislature,  and 
on  the  28th,  accompanied  by  the  other  general  officers  and  their 
suites,  marched  in  procession  from  the  Council  Chamber  to  the 
Old  Brick  Church,  Avhere  appropriate  services  were  held,  after 
which  a  dinner  was  provided  for  the  general  and  his  officers  at 
the  Bunch  of  Grapes,  in  King  Street.  During  his  stay  Wash- 
ington reviewed  the  Continental  troops  on  the  Common. 

The  first  national  medal  voted  by  Congress  was  presented  to 
General  Washington  for  his  successful  conduct  of  the  siege  of 
Boston,  by  a  resolution  passed  March  25,  1776.  It  was  struck 
in  Paris  from  a  die  by  Duvivier. 

Wilkes,  in  a  speech  delivered  in  Parliament  on  the  evacua- 
tion, said  :  "  All  the  military  men  of  this  country  now  confess 
that  the  retreat  of  General  Howe  from  Boston  was  an  absolute 
flight ;  as  much  so,  sir,  as  that  of  Mahomet  from  Mecca." 

One  other  grand  martial  pageant  of  the  Revolutionary  period 


THE  NECK  AND  THE  FORTIFICATIONS.        433 

remains  to  be  chronicled.  This  was  the  entry  of  Rochambeau's 
forces  into  Boston  in  December,  1782.  The  army  was  com- 
manded by  the  brave  General  Baron  de  ViomeniL.Rochambeau 
having  taken  leave  of  his  troops  at  Providence,  returning  with 
a  part  of  his  staff  to  France. 

The  French  army  was  divided  into  four  grand  divisions,  to 
which  was  added  the  held  artillery.  The  second  division  was 
the  hrst  to  arrive  in  the  neighborhood  of  Boston,  on  the  4th, 
the  first  and  third  on  the  5th,  and  the  fourth  on  the  6th.  The 
artillery  did  not  arrive  until  the  18th.  A  few  desertions  oc- 
curred on  the  march,  and  the  officers  were  obliged  to  exercise 
the  greatest  vigilance,  as  many  of  the  poor  fellows  preferred 
remaining  in  the  country  to  embarking  for  an  unknown  desti- 
nation. 

Notwithstanding  it  was  midwinter,  the  troops,  before  enter- 
ing the  town  on  the  7th,  changed  their  dress  in  the  open  air, 
and  appeared  in  such  splendid  array  as  gave  but  little  hint  of 
their  long,  weary  march  from  Yorktown.  Their  welcome  was 
enthusiastic  and  heartfelt.  At  a  town-meeting  held  Saturday, 
December  7,  of  which  Samuel  Adams  was  moderator,  -lames 
Sullivan  and  Samuel  Barret,  with  the  selectmen,  were  appointed 
a  committee  to  wait  on  General  Vioinenil  with  an  address  of 
welcome,  to  which  the  Baron' returned  a  courteous  reply. 

What  shall  be  said  of  the  editorial  and  reportorial  enterprise 
of  that  day?  Beyond  the  brief  notice  we  have  given  of  the  action 
in  town-meeting,  —  and  that  appears  as  an  advertisement, — 
there  is  not  a  single  line  referring  to  the  entry  in  the  columns 
of  the  Independent  Chronicle,  then  published  in  Boston,  aor 
any  clew  to  a  sojourn  of  seventeen  days  in  the  news  department  ; 
the  other  two  papers  dismiss  the  affair  each  with  half  a  dozen 
lines.  Such  an  event  would  now  occupy  the  greater  part  of 
one  of  our  mammoth  journals  ;  noi  the  smallest  scrap  of 
information  would  be  too  trivial,  not  a  button  would  escape 
scrutiny.  To  the  greater  enterprise  of  [saiah  Thomas's  Mas- 
sachusetts Spy,  and  particularly  to  its  P.ostoii  correspondent, 
regular  or  special,  who  writes  under  date  of  December  L2,  1782, 
we  are  Indebted  for  the  following  :  — 

19  nit 


434  LANDMARKS   OF  BOSTON. 

"  Last  week  arrived  in  town  from  the  southward,  in  four  divisions, 
the  troops  of  our  generous  ally,  the  King  of  France.  A  finer  corps 
of  men  never  paraded  the  streets  of  Boston  in  the  infamous  adminis- 
trations of  Bernard,  Hutchinson,  and  Gage.  The  quiet,  peaceable,  and 
orderly  behavior  of  these  troops  during  their  long  march  sufficiently 
contradicts  the  infamous  falsehoods  and  misrepresentations  usually 
imposed  on  the  world  by  perfidious  Britons,  who  have  often  led  us 
to  entertain  an  unfavorable  opinion  of  the  French  troops.  We  are 
happily  convinced  that  such  a  character  belongs  wholly  and  only  to 
the  troops  employed  by  the  Royal  Despot  of  Britain." 

The  day  was  favorable,  and  the  sunbeams  danced  and  glit- 
tered on  the  bayonets  of  these  veterans  of  two  continents  as 
they  proudly  marched  over  the  Neck  and  through  the  modest 
streets  of  Old  Boston.  At  their  head  rode  Yiomenil,  who 
achieved  such  renown  at  Yorktown,  and  afterwards  lost  his  life 
heroically  defending  his  king  at  the  attack  on  the  Tuileries. 
At  his  side  rode  the  Chevalier  Alexander  de  Lameth,  severely 
wounded  at  Yorktown,  and  afterwards  a  soldier  of  Xapoleon ; 
the  Marquis  de  Champcenetz  ;  Count  Mathiexi  Dumas  ;  Alex- 
ander Bertliier,  afterwards  the  adjutant- general  and  confidant 
of  Xapoleon,  but  deserting  thini  in  the  hour  of  adversity ; 
Lynch,  the  intrepid  Englishman,  Avho  served  in  the  ranks  of 
France,  and  many  others  who  gained  renown  in  the  wars 
into  which  that  nation  was  shortly  after  plunged.  The  offi- 
cers wore  singular-looking,  two-cornered  cocked  hats  with  the 
white  cockade,  the  uniform  being  white  broadcloth,  with  fa- 
cings of  red,  blue,  or  green,  according  to  the  corps  to  which 
they  belonged  ;  the  general  alone  wore  a  blue  overdress  faced 
with  red.  All  the  officers  wore  high  military  boots,  were 
splendidly  mounted,  and  their  eqiiipments  and  side-arms  were 
elegant  and  costly. 

A  complete  band  of  music  accompanied  the  troops,  whose 
martial  strains  were  the  first  the  Bostonians  had  heard  since  the 
evacuation  by  the  British  forces  ;  our  own  army  yet  marched  to 
the  music  of  the  fife  and  drum. 

After  these  marched  the  regiment  Royal  Deux-Ponts,  the  lar- 
gest in  the  army,  in  four  battalions,  with  its  colonel,  Count 


THE  NECK  AND  THE  FORTIFICATIONS.        435 

Christian  de  Deux-Ponts,  from  whom  the  regiment  took  its 
name,  at  its  head.  Count  Christian  afterwards  commanded  the 
Bavarian  corps  at  the  battle  of  Hohenlinden  with  distinguished 
valor.  Count  William,  second  colonel  of  the  same  regiment, 
who  was  wounded  in  the  assault  on  the  redoubt  at  Yorktown, 
where  he  won  the  order  of  Saint  Louis,  was  on  his  way  to 
France  with  the  news  of  Cornwallis's  surrender.  The  dress  of 
this  regiment  was  white.  The  men  wore  cocked  hats,  with 
pompons  instead  of  cockades,  woollen  epaulets,  white  cross- 
belts,  from  wdiich  was  suspended  a  short  hanger  and  cartouche- 
box,  and  spatterdashes;  the  hair  was  worn  en  queue  ; — so  far 
the  description  will  apply  to  the  whole  army,  the  colors  varied 
in  all  the  regiments. 

Next  came  the  Soissonnais,  with  Count  Segur,  son  of  the  Min- 
ister at  War,  and  afterwards  a  peer  of  France,  in  their  front. 
Segur  was  colonel  en  second  of  the  regiment,  but  his  senior. 
Count  de  Saint  Maime,  had  come  into  Boston  in  advance  of  the 
army.  Segur  is  also  known  as  a  historian,  and  authoi  of  his 
own  memoirs. 

The  regiment  Saint-Onge,  in  white  and  green,  follows,  with 
Colonel  Count  de  Custines,  who  became  a  general,  ami  the 
Prince  de  Broglie,  second  in  command.  Both  fell  undei  the 
axe  of  the  guillotine  during  the  French  Revolution. 

The  Bourbonnais  in  black  and  red,  the  infantry  of  Lauzun, 
all  with  arms  and  accoutrements  in  complete  order,  crowned 
with  the  laurels  of  victory  and  bearing  the  white  standard  and 
golden  lilies  in  their  serried  ranks,  close  the  brilliant  pro- 
cession. 

An  episode  of  this  famous  entry  deserves  mention.  Young 
Talleyrand  Perigord,  brother  of  Prince  Talleyrand,  was  on  the 
staff  of  the  Marquis  Chastellux,  who  wished  to  take  him  hack 
to  France;  but  the  young  warrior  of  eighteen  was  determined 
to  remain  with  the  army,  ami,  having  obtained  a  grenadier's 
uniform,  marched  in  the  ranks  of  the  Soissonnais,  with  his 
haversack  on  his  back  and  his  gun  on  his  shoulder.  Talleyrand 
was  well  known  to  the  superior  officers,  who  pretended  not  to 
recognize  him,  and  his  warlike  ardor  became  the  town  talk 


436  LANDMARKS    OF   BOSTON. 

He  was  christened  Va-de-bon-coeur  (go  willingly),  and  was  the 
subject  of  many  attentions. 

The  cavalry  of  the  Duke  de  Lauzun,  which  had  crossed  steel 
with  Tarleton's  famous  troopers  and  held  him  at  bay  at  Glouces- 
ter, Virginia,  were  left  behind  with  Washington's  army  on  the 
Hudson.  They  carried  lances,  and  were  styled  Uhlans,  — a  name 
rendered  formidable  by  the  Prussians  in  the  late  Franco-German 
war.  The  uniform  of  this  famous  corps  was  a  blue  hussar 
jacket,  with  high-crowned  round  hat.  Their  leader,  the  beau- 
ideal  of  a  dashing  cavalier,  carried  the  news  of  the  capitulation 
of  Cornwallis  to  the  king.  When  condemned  afterwards  by 
the  tribunal  of  Fouquier  Tinville,  a  moment  before  his  ex- 
ecution he  turned  to  those  who  Avere  to  surfer  with  him  and  said, 
"  It  is  finished,  gentlemen  :  I  depart  on  the  great  journey."  To 
the  executioner  he  offered  a  glass  of  wine,  saying,  "  Take  it,  you 
have  need  of  courage  to  perform  your  duty." 

The  artillery,  although  it  did  not  join  in  the  display,  must 
not  be  forgotten.  This  arm  was  attired  in  blue,  faced  with  red, 
with  white  spatterdashes  and  red  pompons.  The  men  wore  the 
short  Roman  sword,  and  carried  their  firelocks  by  the  slings. 
The  heavy  artillery  train  remained  with  the  American  forces,  to 
assist,  if  necessary,  in  the  reduction  of  New  York. 

A  great  concourse  of  people  came  out  to  the  Xeck  to  welcome 
the  gallant  Frenchmen,  and  as  the  brilliant  column  moved 
along  it  was  met  with  the  liveliest  demonstrations  of  joy  and 
affection.  Ladies  waved  their  handkerchiefs  from  the  Avindows, 
and  the  old  streets  echoed  again  Avith  the  plaudits  of  the  people. 
Our  readers  will  doubtless  agree  that,  of  the  many  pageants  of 
which  the  Neck  has  been  the  theatre,  none  were  so  Avell  worth 
Avitnessing  as  on  the  day  when  the  superb  host  of  our  ally, 
Louis  XVI. ,  with  closed  ranks  and  firm  tread  passed  into  the 
toAvn  ;  or  that  other  day  when, 

"  In  their  ragged  regimentals, 
Stood  the  Old  Continentals," 

Avith  little  of  the  pomp  of  war  in  their  appearance,  but  Avith 
the  light  of  Auctory  in  every  countenance,  as  they  marched  in 


THE   NECK   AND   THE   FORTIFICATIONS.  437 

triumph  through  the  abandoned  works  of  the  enemy,  inaugu- 
rating by  their  valor  and  constancy  the  hope  of  a  successful 
issue  to  the  conflict  just  begun. 

The  stay  of  the  French  was  improved  by  a  round  of  reviews, 
balls,  dinners,  and  receptions.  The  officers  found  quarters  and 
genuine  hospitality  among  the  inhabitants,  and  the  men  were 
well  cared  for.  l!oth  officers  and  men  parted  with  keen  regret 
from  the  friends  they  had  found,  —  a  regret  sincerely  shared  by 
the  inhabitants.  At  a  tire  which  occurred  in  the  town  the 
Trench  displayed  such  good-will  and  gallantry  in  assisting  to 
extinguish  it  that  they  were  publicly  thanked.  On  the  11th, 
Governor  Hancock  and  the  couned  gave  one  of  their  solemn 
feasts  to  the  general  and  held  officers,  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil, 
and  principal  officers  of  the  fleet. 

The  fleet  of  the  Marquis  lay  in  the  roads,  consisting  of  the 
eighty  gun-ships  Le  Triomphant,  Le  Couronne,  and  Le  Due  de 
Bourgogne  ;  the  seventy-fours  L'Hercule,  Le  Souverain,  Le 
Neptune,  La  Bourgogne,  Northumberland,  Le  Bravo,  Le  Cit- 
oyen,  and  the  two  frigates  L'Amazone  and  La  Xereide. 

At  this  time  the  squadron  was  joined  by  a  most  notable  vol- 
unteer in  John  Paul  Jones,  who  was,  at  his  own  solicitation, 
permitted  to  accompany  M.  de  Vaudreuil.  Ee  was  received 
with  distinction  by  the  Marquis  on  board  his  own  vessel,  Le 
Triomphant,  and  lodged  with  the  Baron  Viomenil.  The  des- 
tination of  the  squadron  —  a  secret  which  was  well  kept  -  was 
Jamaica.  On  the  24th  of  December  the  fleet  set  sail  from 
Boston  for  the  rendezvous  at  Porto  Cabello,  which  after  nu- 
merous disasters  it  reached  in  February.  While  lying  there, 
Paid  Jones  fell  dangerously  ill  of  the  fever.  Peace  ensued  1  lefore 
the  fleet  of  D'Estaing,  which  was  to  co-operate,  arrived  from 
Cadiz.  It  will  be  remembered  that  Jones  was  compelled,  by  a 
resolution  of  Congress,  to  surrender  the  America,  the  building 
of  which  he  had  for  sixteen  months  superintended,  to  bl.de 
Vaudreuil,  to  replace  Le  Magnifique,  which  had  belonged  to  the 
fleet  of  the  Marquis. 

The  reader,  who  has  patiently  followed  ns  in  the  attempt  to 
reconstruct  to  some  extent  the  Boston  of  our  fathers,  to  rebuild 


438  LANDMARKS   OF   BOSTON. 

in  imagination  their  habitations,  and  to  revive  their  venerable 
customs,  may,  in  a  measure,  realize  those  changes  which  have 
swept  over  the  ancient  peninsula,  and  wellnigh  totally  effaced 
its  landmarks  ;  and  while  he  feels  a  just  pride  in  that  growth 
which  is  the  expression  of  power,  he  may  yet  render  due  tribute 
to  the  solid  traits  and  heroic  deeds  of  those  antique  characters 
who  laid  the  foundations  deep  and  permanent  on  which  have 
risen  the  Metropolis  of  iS^ew  England. 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


A. 

Abbott,  Colonel,  379. 

Academy  of  Music,  first  established  in 
Boston,  259. 

Adams,  Charles  Francis,  birthplace, 
319;  public  services,  321  ;  marries, 
,321. 

Adams  Express  Company,  76,  80. 

Adams  Hall.     See  Boylston  Hall. 

Adams  House,  site  and  name  of,  392. 

Adams,  John,  39,  60  ;  incident  of  his 
nomination  of  Washington  to  com- 
mand the  army,  73,  82,  89,  100  ;  res- 
idence, 125,  126,  148,  181,  196,  201  : 
sails  for  France,  221,  230  ;  defends 
Preston,  249,  309  ;  description  of 
Hutchinson's  Council,  347,  353,  355, 
357  ;  office,  402. 

Adams,  John  Quincy,  library  of,  37,  39, 
125,  201  ;  residence,  319  ;  sketch  of, 

319  ;  incidents  of  mission  to  Russia, 

320  ;  Lafayette  visits,  364  ;  Dames 
frigate  Brandywine,  382 ;  office,  402 ; 
lays  corner-stone  of  Boylston  Market, 
403,  404. 

Adams,  Laban,  innkeeper,  392. 

Adams,  Samuel,  57,  69,  71  ;  presides 
at  Civic  Feast,  110 ;  proscribed,  125  ; 
portrait,  140,  149,  214,  220  ;  at  Tea 
I 'arty  Meeting,  229  ;  resemblance  to 
General  Gage,  243,  248  ;  opposed  to 
theatres,  261  ;  birthplace,  281  ;  fire- 
ward,  295,  297  ;  residence  and  sketch 
of,  308,  309  ;  drafts  State  Constitu 
tion,  309  ;  Governor  of  Massachu 
setts,  309  ;  death,  309  ;  anecdote  of, 
309;  personal  appearance,  309  :  de 
scription  of  hi;  birthplace,  809  ;  lays 


corner-stone  of  New  State  House, 
344  ;  bust  of,  345,  348,  372,  401, 
406,  433. 

Adams,  Samuel,  senior,  380. 

Adams  School,  314. 

Adams,  Seth,  printing-office,  253. 

Adams  Street  (Kilby),  109. 

Adams,  W.  T.,  392. 

Adelphi  Theatre,  74. 

Admiral  Dull",  ship,  211. 

Admiral  Vernon  Tavern,  111  ;  kept 
by,  112. 

Adventure,  Galley  (Kidd's  vessel), 
78. 

Advertiser  Building,  79. 

Albion,  56. 

Alboni,  Madame,  394. 

Alden  Court,  371. 

Alcott,  A.  Bronson,  school,  312. 

Alcott,  Louisa  May,  312. 

Alert,  sloop-of-war,  171. 

Alexander,  Emperor,  traits  of.  320. 

Alexis,  Grand  Duke,  in  Boston,  371. 

Allen.  A.  S.,  innkeeper,  392. 

Allen,  Rev.  .James,  old  stone  resi- 
dence, 363. 

Allen,  Jeremiah,  261  ;  residence,  363. 

Allen  Street,  339,  370. 

Allen,  Win.  II.,  L97;   VV.  II.,  390. 

Allotment  of  lands,  14. 

Allston,  Washington,  ">s  ;  studio,  276  ; 
picture  of  Belshazzar,  *_? 7 •  >  ;  --ketch 
and  anecdotes  of,  li 7 ' > .  277  ;  death, 
•2~l>'>  ;  picture  of  Elijah,  867. 

Almshouse,  •  lid,  66  ;  site  and  di 
tion  of,  299  ;  erected,  299  ;  removi  d, 

800  ;  manage] I  of,  300  ;  occupied 

by  wounded,  300,  352  :  al  West 
End,  oT.'i  ;  description  of,  876. 


442 


INDEX. 


Amazone,  French  ship,  437. 

Amblard,  James,  residence,  145. 

American  Academy  of  Arts  and 
Sciences,  37,  38,  39. 

American  Amphitheatre,  378. 

American  Coffee  House,  41,  108. 

American  Congregational  Association, 
363. 

American  House,  68,  70. 

America,  ship,  180,  437. 

America,  seventy-four,  built,  180. 

American  Works,  location  and  descrip- 
tion of,  427,  428,  429. 

Ames,  Fisher,  82  ;  funeral,  353,  403. 

Ames,  Joseph,  141. 

Ames  Manufacturing  Company,  58. 

Ames,  Richard,  shot,  326. 

Amherst,  General  Jeffrey,  240,  310  ; 
in  Boston,  326. 

Amory,  Jonathan,  residence,  171. 

Amory,  Rufus  G.,  390. 

Amory,  Thomas,  builds  Club  House, 
corner  Park  and  Beacon  Streets, 
352. 

Amory,  Thomas  C,  196. 

Anabaptists,  15. 

Ancient  Arch,  Lynn  Street,  199,  200. 

Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery,  83  ; 
first  commander  of,  88  ;  Governor 
Dummer,  Captain  of,  102  ;  history 
of,  137,  138  ;  rendezvous,  138  ; 
armory,  138,  157 ;  at  Governor  Shir- 
ley's funeral,  267,  315,  331. 

Andover,  Mass.,  26,  60. 

Anilover  Theological  Seminary,  55. 

Andre,  John,  execution  of,  100. 

Andrew,  John  A.,  office,  83  ;  statue  of, 
345. 

Andrews,  Benj.^  250. 

Andrews,  Ebenezer  T.,  253. 

Andrews,  John,  307. 

Andros,  Lady  Anne,  burial-place  of, 
35  ;  buried,  228  ;  tomb  of,  229  ;  fu- 
neral, 390. 

Andros,  Sir  Edmund,  15, 31,  35, 40, 148  ; 
takes  possession  of  Old  South,  228  ; 
house,  228  ;  deposed,  285 ;  reputed 
residence  of,  228,  390,  391. 

Annapolis,  Naval  Museum  at,  106. 

Anne,  Queen,  33,  64. 


Anne  Street.     See  North  Street,  127, 

153. 
Annual  Register,  British,  431. 
Anthology  Club,  37,   124  ;  headquar- 
ters, 268  ;  William  Tudor,  304. 
Antinonuans,  sect  of,  63. 
Antiquarian  Society,  237. 
Appleton,  General,  356. 
Appleton,  Samuel,  32. 
Appollonio,  Mr.,  298. 
Apthorp,  Charles,  32,  386. 
Apthorp,  Charles  W.,  358. 
Apthorp,  Madam,  house,  121. 
Arbuthnot,  Admiral,  221. 
Arched   passage-ways,    121 ;    peculiar 

tenure  of,  255. 
Arch  Street,  39. 
Area  of  Boston,  8. 
Argus,  brig,  181,  197. 
Armstrong,  Captain  Samuel,  221. 
Armstrong,  John,  Jr.,  66. 
Armstrong,  Jonathan,  Postmaster  of 

Boston,  92. 
Armstrong,  S.  T.,  298  ;  residence  and 

bookstore,  338,  371. 
Ashburton  Place,  50  ;  named,  1 40, 362  ; 

formerly  Somerset  Court,  363. 
Ashburton  treaty,  45. 
Asia,  British  frigate,  217. 
Asp,  schooner,  221. 
Aston,  Thomas,  386. 
Asylum  for  Indigent  Boys,  209. 
Athenaeum  Block,  280. 
Athenaeum,  Boston,  37,  38,  39  ;   All- 

ston's  pictures  in,  276,  277,  280, 317  ; 

statues  in,  344,  345. 
Atkinson  Street.     See  Congress. 
Atkinson,  Theodore,  273. 
Atlantic  Avenue,  8,  115. 
Auchmuty's  Lane.     See  Essex  Street. 
Auchmuty,  Robert,  senior,  402. 
Auchmuty,  Robert,  younger,  residence 

and  sketch  of,  402. 
Auchmuty,  Sir  Samuel,  4iV2. 
Austin,  Charles,  killed,  114. 
Austin,  Joseph,  168. 
Aurora,  privateer,  171. 
Avon  Street,  News  Letter  printed  near, 

82  ;  projected  by,  365  ;  residents  of, 

392. 


INDEX. 


443 


B. 

Back  Bay,  improvement,  8,  333. 
Back  Street,  7,  153,  219.     See  Salem. 
Bainbridge,  William,  100,  186  ;  action 

with  the  Java,  190,  191,  194,  355. 
Bainbridge,  sloop-of-war,  1S5. 
Balch,  Nathaniel,  314,  341  ;  shop,  394. 
Baldwin,  Loammi,  38,  152  ;  Engineer 

of  Dry  Dock,  Charlestown,  185  ;  En- 
gineer of  Mill  Dam,  333. 
Baldwin   Place,    151  ;  Second  Baptist 

Church  in,  226,  416. 
Baldwin,  Rev.  Thomas,  buried,  296. 
Ballard,  innkeeper,  107. 
Ballard,  John,  294. 
Ballou,  Rev.  Hosea,  64. 
Bancroft,  George,  166  ;  residence,  385. 
Banks,  Commodore,  116. 
Banks,  Nathaniel  P.,  341. 
Banner,  Peter,  architect  of  Park  Street 

Church,  301. 
Bannister's  Lane.     See  Winter  Street. 
Baptist  Bethel,  416. 
Barber,  Nathaniel,  269. 
Barbour,  Major,  357. 
Banlin,  Edward,  innkeeper,  428. 
Baring,  Alexander,  in  Boston,  140. 
Barker,  James,  innkeeper,  105. 
Barker,  Josiah,  185,  193. 
Barlow,  Joel,  193. 
Barnard,  Benjamin,  66. 
Barnstable,  44. 
Barre,    Colonel    Isaac,    portrait,    140, 

269,  407. 
Barrell,  Joseph,  estate  of,  254  ;  pioneer 

in    Northwest     Coast    trade,    251  ; 

sketch  of,  389  ;  store,  3S9. 
Barret,  Samuel,  433. 
Barrett.  George,  292. 
Barrett,   Mrs.    George,   40  ;    debut    in 

Boston,  318. 
Barrett,  George  L.,  256,  318. 
Barricado,  The,  8,  114  ;  description  of, 

115,  284. 
Barrister's  Hall  built,  317. 
Barry.  Commodore  John,  182. 
Barry,  Mr.,  292. 
Bartol,  Rev.  C.  A.,  374. 
Barton,  Mr.,  273. 


Barton's  Point,  24  ;  ropewalks  at,  273, 
369  ;  works  to  be  assaulted,  359  ; 
copper-works  and  intrenchments  at, 
369. 

Barton  Street,  375. 

Bass,  Henry,  residence  of,  283,  406. 

Bates,  Joshua,  notice  of,  324. 

Bath  Street,  269. 

Batterymarch  Street,  106  ;  old  water 
front,  110  ;  shipyards  on,  112  ;  filled 
in,  288. 

Batterymarch,  The,  286. 

Battery  Street  (Alley).  176. 

1  lattery  Wharf,  116,"  16S,  177. 

Battle  of  Lexington,  relics  of,  in  State 
House,  347. 

Baudoin.     See  Bowdoin. 

Baylies,  Hon.  W.,  39. 

Beach  Street,  7,  404  ;  great  fire  in, 
416  ;  Neck  begins  at,  418. 

Beach  Street  Market,  404 

Beacon  Hill,  3,  6,  7.  In,  17.  17,  52,  54  ; 
material  used  to  fill  Mill  Pond,  152  ; 
called  ('entry  Hill.  -2W  •  guns  cap- 
tured on,  327  ;  British  works  on, 
328  ;  camp  of  the  Light  Horse.  329  ; 
ropewalks  on,  329  ;  monument  on, 
345,  352  ;  summit  of,  349 ;  to  be 
assaulted,  359,  365. 

Beacon  Street,  4,  37,  53,  56  ;  Alms- 
house in,  299;  town  propertj  on 
sold,  .".mi  ;  high  bluff  a1  fool  of,  325  ; 
British  works  on.  328  ;  named,  333  ; 
aspect  of,  in  1 7 7 ._> .  333  ;  residi 
333,  360  ;  considered  out  of  town, 
338  ;  terminus  of,  in  1722,  352. 

Beacon,  The.  17:  description  and  his- 
tory of,  349,  352. 

Bean,  Mary,  keeps  the  Admiral  Ver- 
non, 112. 

Beaver,  tea  ship.  282. 

Bedford  Place,  390. 

Bedford  Street,  102,  280  ;  called  Pond 
ban,-.  381  ;  Blind  Lane  a  part  ofj 
881,  390. 

B&  cher,  1  fenry  Ward,  1  17. 

Beecher,  Laban  9  .  194 

Beecher,  Lyman,  147. 

H iher's    (Lyman)    church,   site  of, 

147. 


444 


INDEX. 


Beer,  William,  206. 

Beer  Lane,  155. 

Belcher,  Andrew,  residence  of,  101  ; 
warehouse,  102. 

Belcher,  Governor  Jonathan,  40,  67  ; 
residence  of,  102  ;  portrait  of,  347  ; 
gives  land  for  Hollis  Street  Church, 
414. 

Belcher  (and  Armstrong),  338. 

Belcher's  Lane.  See  Purchase  Street, 
281. 

Belknap's  Alley  (Brattle  Street),  71. 

Belknap,  Jeremy,  239,  263  ;  buried, 
296  ;  residence"  of,  381. 

Belknap  Street,  329  ;  ropewalk  on, 
352  ;  named,  370. 

Bell  Alley,  162.     See  Prince  Street. 

Bellamy,  Samuel,  49. 

Belle  Poule,  frigate,  139. 

Bellingham,  Governor  Richard,  resi- 
dence of,  51,  53,  54,  56,  58,  91  ; 
tomb  of,  296. 

Bellomont,  Earl  of,  77  ;  house  of,  391. 

Bennet,  David.     See  Spencer  Phipps. 

Bennet  Street,  153,  213. 

Bent,  Ann,  shop  of,  391. 

Bentley,  Joshua,  66. 

Bentley,  Samuel,  184. 

Bentley,  Rev.  William,  anecdote  of, 
187,  188. 

Berkeley,  George  (Bishop),  72. 

Berkeley  Street,  385. 

Bernard,  Governor  Francis,  admits 
British  troops  to  Faneuil  Hall,  89, 
236  ;  reception,  241  ;  proclaims  last 
crowned  head  in  colony,  241  ;  coun- 
try residence,  242  ;  effects  stolen, 
242,  247,  303  ;  town  residence,  307, 
313,  348,  352  ;  account  of  Liberty 
Tree,  398,  399. 

Berry  Street.     See  Channing. 

Berry  Street  Academy,  262. 

Berry,  Grace,  205,  207. 

Berthier,  Alexander,  in  Boston,  433. 

Bethel  Church,  site  of,  168. 

Bethune's  Corner,  390. 

Black,  Rev.  William,  172. 

Black  Horse  Lane.     See  Prince  Street. 

Black  Horse  Tavern,  219. 

Blackstone,  Sir  William,  4,  47. 


Blackstone,   William,   Ms  settlement, 

2,   3  ;    house,    3,    10  ;   orchard,    3  ; 

claim  to  the  Peninsula,  4  ;  marries, 

dies,  5  ;  lot,  28  ;  Common  purchased 

from,  305  ;  reserved  six  acres,  334. 
Blackstone's  Point,  3. 
Blackstone's  Spring,  3,  4. 
Blackstone  Square,  6. 
Blackstone  Street,  6,  7,  68,  127  ;  built 

in     channel    of    Mill    Creek,    132 ; 

named,  152. 
Blagden,  Rev.  G.  W.,  settled  in  Salem 

Street  Church,  220  ;  resigns  pastor- 
ate of  Old  South,  220. 
Blake  (and  Alden),  130. 
Blake,  W.  R.,  291. 
Bland,  Mr.,  74. 
Bible  and  Heart,  234. 
Bigelow,  Colonel,  269. 
Billings,  Hammatt,  38. 
Birthplace   of    Franklin,  251  ;  burnt, 

252. 
Biscaccianti,  Eliza,  291. 
Bishop's    Alley,    253.      See    Hawley 

Street. 
Bishop,  Madam  Anna,  368. 
Bishop,    Nathaniel,    innkeeper,    248, 

253. 
Bishop-Stoke  Street,  52. 
Blessing  of  the  Bay,  first  ship  built  in 

vicinity  of  Boston,  178. 
Blew  Anchor,  121,  122. 
Blind  Lane.     See  Bedford  Street. 
Bloody  Monday,  114. 
Blossom  Street  built,  376. 
Blott's  Lane.     See  Winter  Street. 
Blowers,  Sampson  Salter,  office,  402. 
Blue  Anchor  Tavern,  location  of,  121. 
Blue  Ball,  The,  146  ;    description   of, 

147,  162. 
Blue  Bell  and  Indian  Queen,  site  and 

sketch  of,    24S ;    another   in  Brom- 

field's  Lane,  248,  253,  275. 
Boarded  Alley,  or  Board  Alley.   155, 

253  ;  theatre  in,  261.     See  Hawley 

Street. 
Boardman,  Rev.  Mr.,  172. 
Bolter,  Thomas,  282. 
Bolton,  Dr.,  British  surgeon,  108. 
Bonaparte,  Jerome,  anecdote  of,  139. 


INDEX. 


445 


Bookseller's  Row,  338. 

Book  of  Possessions,  19,  88. 

Boot,  Kirk,  196  ;  mansion  of,  371. 

Booth,  Junius  Brutus,  40,  41,  394; 
manager  of  Tremont  Theatre,  292. 

Borland's  Wharf,  127. 

Boston,  a  village,  2. 

Boston  Bay,  2. 

Boston  Chronicle,  107. 

Boston,  England,  6. 

Boston  Evening  Post,  office  of,  234. 

Boston,  frigate,  built,  181,  195  ;  his- 
tory of,  196,  197  ;  Old  Boston, 
frigate,  221. 

Boston  Gazette,  391. 

Boston  Jail,  65  (Old  Prison),  76,  77, 
78  ;  New  Jail,  78  ;  burnt,  78  ; 
County,  78  ;  Debtor's,  78  ;  keys  of 
Old  Prison,  78  ;  Leverett  Street, 
78  ;  description  of,  374  ;  removed  to 
Charles  Street,  375. 

Boston  Library,  incorporated  and 
located,  255. 

Boston  Light  Dragoons  escort  Lafay- 
ette, 356. 

Boston  Light  Infantry,  190,  262. 

Boston  Massacre,  Knox's  relation  of, 
85,  89  ;  burial  of  victims,  297 ;  no 
monument  to,  298. 

Boston  Pier  (Long  Wharf),  114. 

Boston  Port  Bill,  68. 

Boston  Regiment,  The,  21,  65,  210  ;  at 
Governor  Shirley's  funeral,  267  ; 
detachment  guard  tea  ships,  281  ; 
receives  Lafayette  355,  398. 

Boston  Stone,  1*43  ;  history  of,  144, 145. 

Boston  Theatre,  254  ;  opened,  256  ; 
Edmund  Kean's  first  appearance  at, 
257  ;  second  appearance,  and  riot, 
258;  Mrs.  Rowson,  258;  Macready, 
259  ;  John  Howard  Paine,  259  ;  La- 
fayette at,  259,  364  ;  architect  and 
description  of,  259,  260 ;  cast  on 
opening  night,  260. 

Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad,  Com- 
pany purchases  depot  grounds  in 
South  Cove,  411  ;  first  equipment 
of,  411. 

Botta,  348. 

Bougainville  visits  Boston,  341. 


Bourbonnais  (French  regiment),  435. 
Bourgogne,  Due  de,  French  ship,   437. 
Bourne,  Garrett,  his  lot,  404. 
Boutineau,  James,  residence  of,  253. 
Bow-ditch,    Nathaniel,  39 ;    statue   of, 

344  ;  residence  of,  38  I. 
Bowditch,  Nathaniel  Ingersoll,  384. 
Bowdoin  Block,  253. 
Bowdoin   College,    James   Bowdoin   a 

patron,  253. 
Bowdoin,     Governor    James,    39,    57, 

124,    233,    248;  first    President     of 

Massachusetts  Bank,  303,  337,  349  ; 

residence   of,    361  ;  sketch   of,    361, 

362,  387;  widow  of,  106. 
Bowdoin,    James,  Jr.,    residence    of, 

253. 
Bowdoin    Square,   369  ;    changes    in, 

370  ;  trees  in,  409. 
Bowdoin  Square  Church,  site  of,  371. 
Bowdoin   Street,    named,    352 ;  called 

Middlecott,  352. 
Bowdoin  Street  Church,  147. 
Bowen,  Mr.,  41. 
Bowers,  John,  52. 
Bowling  Green,   369.      See    Bowdoin 

Square. 
Bownd,  James,  residence  of,  223. 
Boyd,  General  John  P.,  residence  of, 

168  ;  commands  Fort  Independence, 

2S0. 
Boyden,  Simeon,  innkeeper,  248. 
Boylston's  Alley,  121. 
Boylston  Hall,    Museum   in,  12  ;  vari- 
ous occupants  of,  403,  104. 
Boylston  Market,  130,  354,  398  ;  his- 

torj  of,  403. 
Boylston  Place,  Boston  Library  in.  254. 
Boylston    Street,    3t».">  ;    called    Frog 

Lane,  319;  Duck   Factory  in,  322  ; 

British  works  in.  -">_s. 
Boyl  bon,  Thomas,  288. 
Boylston,  Ward  Nicholas,  288,  I"'.. 
Boylston,  Dr.  Zabdiel,  introduces  in- 
oculation, 103,  103, 
Boyne,  British  frigate,  217. 
Brackett,  Anthony,  innkeeper,  61. 
Brackett,  Joshua,  61. 
Brackett,  Richard,  234. 
Braddock,  General  Edward,  62. 


446 


INDEX. 


Bradstreet,  Governor,  portraits  of,  346, 
347, 

Braintree,  29. 

Brandywine,  frigate,  named,  382. 

Brattle  Square,  a  place  d'armes,  121, 
126  ;  headquarters  for  stages,  126. 

Brattle  Street,  4:2 ;  opened  to  Court, 
71,  72,  74  ;  barracks  in,  121,  127  ; 
market  in,  130. 

Brattle  Street  Church,  49,  68  ;  parson- 
age, 76  ;  ruins  of,  122  ;  history  of, 
122,  123,  124,  147,  234;  Lafayette 
attends,  355  ;  Washington  attends, 
387,  416. 

Brattle,  Thomas,  31. 

Bravo,  French  ship,  437. 

Bray's  Wharf,  129. 

Brasier  Inn,  141. 

Brazen  Head,  146,  272. 

Brazer's  Building,  91,  92. 

Breed's  Hill,  24,  116. 

Brenton,  Captain  William,  Collector 
of  Boston,  210. 

Brewer,  Gardner,  147. 

Brewer,  James,  282. 

Brickyards  on  the  Neck,  422. 

Bridewell,  site  of,  299  ;  at  West  Bos- 
ton, 376. 

Bridge,  Thomas  W.,  35. 

Bridge  Lane  (Richmond  Street),  155. 

Bridge  Street,  built,  376. 

Bridges,  Cambridge,  24  ;  Charles  Riv- 
er, 24,  180  ;  West  Boston,  24 ;  Do- 
ver Street,  24  ;  Craigie's,  24  ;  Lech- 
mere's  Point,  25  ;  Western  Avenue, 
25,  332,  333;  South  Boston,  25; 
Boston  Soutli  Bridge,  24  ;  Canal,  24. 

Bridgham's  Wharf,  127. 

Bridgman,  Thomas,  205,  207. 

Brigham,  Peter  B.,  71. 

Brighton  Street,  called  Copper,  369. 

Brimmer,  Martin,  anecdote  of,  368. 

Brimstone  Corner,  301. 

Brissot,  De,  in  Boston,  341. 

Britannia,  steamship,  290. 

British  Coffee  House,  60  ;  location  of, 
107  ;  James  Otis  assaulted  in,  108  ; 
theatricals  in,  260. 

British  Light  Horse,  stables  and  camp, 
329. 


British  Society,  31. 

British  Stamps  (Stamp  Act),  80  ;  speci- 
mens of,  81  ;  burnt,  .90  ;  riots,  110. 

Broad  Street,  109  ;  built,  110  ;  riot  in, 
111. 

Brock,  General,  410. 

Bronilield,  Edward,  residence  of,  294, 
362. 

Bromfteld  House,  248.  See  Indian 
Queen  tavern,  294. 

Bromfield,  John,  38. 

Bromfield's  Lane,  41.     See  Street. 

Bromfield  Street,  10,  227  ;  named,  294. 

Bromfield  Street  Church,  416. 

Brooker,  William,  Postmaster  of  Bos- 
ton, 79  ;  publishes  Boston  Gazette, 
79,  104. 

Brookline,  14,  418. 

Brooks,  Edward,  147. 

Brooks,  Governor  John,  sword  of,  40, 
43  ;  at  Bunker  Hill,  86,  100,  355, 
361  ;  anecdote  of,  367. 

Brooks,  Peter  C,  321. 

Brougham,  John,  74. 

Brougham,  Mrs.,  74. 

Brougham,  Lord,  53. 

Brown,  Charity,  206. 

Brown,  Deacon,  425. 

Brown,  Elisha,  prevents  occupation  of 
Factory  House  by  troops,  303. 

Brown,  Gawen,  234. 

Brown,  Mr.,  house  and  barns  of,  427  ; 
British  outpost,  427  ;  destroyed, 
427. 

Brown,  William,  49. 

Bruce,  Captain  James,  282. 

Bryant,  Gridley  J.  F.,  5S.  See  United 
States  Bank,  94. 

Bryant,  W.  C,  290. 

Buckingham,  Joseph  T.,  403. 

Buckminster,  Joseph  S.,  38,  123,  124. 

Bucks  of  America,  40. 

Building  stone,  curious  statement 
about,  422. 

Bulfinch,  Charles,  39;  Franklin  Street 
improvement,  75,    213,    248,    254 
architect  of   Boston   Theatre,  259 
of  Federal  Street  Church,  264,  311 
of   new  State  House.    343  ;  Beacon 
Hill    Monument,    350  ;    sketch    of, 


INDEX. 


447 


369,  370  ;  designs  new  South  Church, 
3S0  ;  Hollis  Street  Church,  415. 

Bulfinch  Street.  See  Valley  Acre, 
370. 

Bulfinch  Street  Church,  416. 

Bulfinch,  Thomas,  residence  of,  369. 

Bull's  Head,  the  home  of  G.  R.  T. 
Hewes,  269. 

Bull  Run,  46. 

Bull  Tavern,  site  of,  380. 

Bumstead  Place,  residence  of  Adino 
Paddock,  294,  295. 

Bunch  of  Grapes  Tavern,  location  of, 
105,  107  ;  Washington  at,  432. 

Bunker  Hill,  Battle  of,  60,  65,  69,  70  ; 
Knox  at,  85,  87  ;  General  Dearborn 
at,  106 ;  troops  embark  for,  113, 
177  ;  reminiscences  of,  202,  216 ; 
General  Howe's  address  to  his 
troops,  245  ;  burial-place  of  soldiers, 

323  ;  Lafayette's  visit  to,  355. 
Bunker    Hill    Monument,    Webster's 

oration  at,  45  ;  brass  guns  in,  72, 
112,  120,  278,  315 ;  architect  of, 
312  ;  corner-stone  laid,  346,  392.» 

Bunker  Hill  Monument  Association, 
352. 

Bunker  Hill  Quarry  discovered,  312. 

Burgoyne,  General  John,  125,  127, 
203,  204,  207  ;  his  regiment  occupies 
Old  South,  231 ;  anecdotes  of,  231, 
232  ;  at  council,  243,  245;  author  of 
plays,   260,    310  ;    capitulation    of, 

324  ;  occupies  Bowdoin's  house,  362, 
426,  427. 

Burnet,  Gilbert  (Bishop),  237. 
Burnet,     William,    31  ;    residence   of, 

65, 105.  236  ;  bom,  237  ;  died,  237, 

246,  247  ;  portrait  of,  346. 
Burns,  Anthony,  remanded  to  slavery, 

113. 
Burr,  Aaron,  296. 
Burritt,  Elihu,  293. 
Bury  Street.     See  Charming,  263. 
Bussey,  Benjamin,  residence  of,  254, 

416. 
Bute,  Lord,  hung  in  effigy,  399. 
Butler,    Peter,    warehouse   and    wharf, 

112. 
Butler's  Row,  112,  129. 


Butler,  Pierce,  121. 

Buttrick,  John,  '■'>  15. 

Buttolph  Street,  370. 

Byles,  Mather,  29,  64,  67  ;  anecdotes 
of,  85,  210;  birthplace,  218,  219, 
238;  residence  and  sketch  of,  U2; 
death,  413  ;  anecdotes  of,  413,  414. 

Byles,  Mather,  Jr.,  216. 

Byng,  Admiral,  effigy  of,  150. 

Byron,  Lord,  193. 

c. 

Cabot,  George,  residence  of,  295 ; 
sketch  of,  295,  296. 

Cabot,  Edward  C.,3S. 

Calico  printing  in  Boston,  322. 

Cambridge,  86. 

Cambridge  Bay  (Back  Bay),  414. 

Cambridge  Bridge,  325. 

Cambridge  Commencement,  Pi. 

Cambridge  Street,  extent  of,  369. 

Campbell,  John,  Postmaster  of  Bos- 
ton, publishes  New--  Letter,  82,  lot, 

Campbell,   Nicholas.  282. 

Campbell,  William,  innkeeper,  176. 
( lamp,  Fredericksburg,  66. 
Caner,  Rev.  Eenry,  29,  32,  :'..">.  267. 
Canton,  .Mass..  Revere's  copper  works 

at,  120. 
Canton    Street,    British    works    near, 

■126. 
Cape  Cod,  49,  203. 
I  lape  Cod  How,  316. 
Capen,    Nahuni,    Postmaster  of    Bos- 
ton, 385. 
Carleton,  Sir  Guy,  It"'.. 
Carroll,  Bishop.  256. 
Carr,   sir   Robert,   insolenl    reply  to 

( tovernor  Lei  ei  etl,  171. 
Carter,   Blaster  James,  57.  '■■  ;  reai 

dence  of,  76. 
Carter,  Mrs..  I 

Cartwright,  <  'olonel  <  leorge,  174. 
Carver,  Governor  John,  Bword  of,  I". 
Carver   Street,    British    works    near, 

328. 
Cass,  Lewis.  139,  185,  192. 
Castle,  The,  24,  115;  troops  removed 

to,   121,  17"  ;  i'i.  och  pi  isoners  at, 


448 


INDEX. 


197  ;  view  of  Boston  from,  241  ;  tea 
consignees  at,  334  ;  surgeon,  363 ; 
stamps  sent  to,  399  ;  fortified,  424. 

Cathedral  (new),  420,  421. 

Cathedral  Buildings,  site  of  Cathedral 
of  Holy  Cross,  255. 

Caucus,  North  End,  rendezvous  and 
origin  of  the  name,  17>>. 

( lauseway  (Mill  Pond),  7,  150 ;  origin 
of,  151. 

Causeway  Street,  7,  150. 

Cazneau,  Mr.,  residence  of,  402. 

Centinel  Hill,  370. 

Central  House,  121. 

Central  Wharf,  arch  on,  111,  115. 

Centre  Street,  37,  153,  154. 

Centre  Writing  School,  57,  75 ;  anec- 
dote of,  304. 

Gentry  Hill,  56.     See  Beacon  Hill. 

Gentry  Street  named,  299.  See  Park 
Street. 

Chambers  Street,'  370. 

Champney,  John,  66. 

Champcenetz,  Marquis,  433. 

Change  Avenue  {see  Pillory),  93 ; 
United  States  Custom  House  on 
corner  of,  105. 

Channing  Street,  John  H.  Payne's 
residence  in,  262  ;  named,  263. 

Channing,  Rev.  W.  E.,  263,  264. 

Chantrey,  Sir  F.,  statue  of  Washing- 
ton, 345. 

Chapin,  Rev.  E.  H.,  64. 

Chapman,  Captain,  229. 

Chapman  Hall,  65. 

Chapman,  Jonathan,  140. 

Chapman  Place,  65. 

Chappotin,  Leon,  public-house  of,  384  ; 
entertains  Jerome  Bonaparte,  384. 

Chard  on,  Peter,  residence  of,  371. 

Chardon  Street,  school-house  in,  371. 

Charles  I.,  10,  11,  50,  55. 

Charles  II.,  33,  34,  51,  53,  83,  174. 

Charles  River,  2,  3,  17  ;  commanded 
by  North  Battery,  177,  203. 

Charles  Street,  4 ;  ropewalks  near, 
324 ;  opened,  324,  325 ;  sea-wall 
built,  325,  333,  370  ;  trees  removed 
from,  409. 

Charleston,  S.  C,  103. 


Charlestown,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6 ;  slaves 
shipped  to,  13;  Ferry,  24,  25; 
Portsmouth  stage,  26,  57,  65  ;  at- 
tack on,  117. 

Charlestown  Bridge,  5,  7. 

Charlestown  Company,  5,  10. 

Charlestown  Ferry,  5,  125. 

Charlestown  Navy  Yard,  182,  183, 
186,  194,  195,  322,  327  ;  Lafayette's 
visit  to,  355. 

Charlestown  Neck,  25,  181 ;  retreat 
over,  203,  207,  243. 

Charter  Street,  named,  209  ;  residents 
of,  211. 

Chase,  Major-General,  355. 

Chase,  Thomas.  282. 

Chastellux,  Marquis,  19,  24,  61,  85, 
362,  435. 

Chatham  Street,  112. 

Chauncey,  Commodore  Isaac,  1S6. 

Chauncy  Place  named,  381,  382. 

Chauncy  Street,  First  Church  removed 
to,  84. 

Checkley,  Rev.  Samuel,  380. 

Cheftver,  Ezekiel,  57. 

Chelsea,  14,  24. 

Cherub,  frigate,  171. 

Cheverus,  Bishop,  255  ;  anecdote  of, 
256. 

Chicopee,  58. 

Child,  Lydia  M.,  167,  168. 

Choate,  Rufus,  office,  82  ;  anecdotes 
of,  83,  219  ;  portrait  of,  141. 

Christ  Church,  163,  200 ;  history  and 
description  of,  213,  214,  215,  216; 
legends  of,  216,  217  ;  second  Epis- 
copal church,  213 ;  steeple  blown 
down,  213;  chimes,  214,  215,  386, 
414. 

Church,  Colonel  Benjamin,  sword  of, 
40,  48. 

Church,  Dr.  Benjamin,  120,  149  ;  on 
the  Boston  clergy,  161,  229  ;  treasoD 
discovered,  243  :  residence  of,  243, 
269,  392,  414. 

Church  Green  named,  380. 

Church  pews,  introduction  of,  416. 

Church  Square,  84. 

Circulating  Library,  First,  106. 

Citoyen,  French  ship,  437. 


INDEX. 


449 


City  Exchange,  99. 

City  Hall,  7  ;  history  of,  58,  59  ;  Old 
State  House  used  as,  S9. 

City  Market,  130. 

City  Tavern,  121. 

Civic  Feast  held  in  Boston,  110. 

Claghorn,  Colonel  George,  182,  183. 

Clapboard  Street.     See  Joy  Street. 

Clapp,  William  W.,  403. 

Clark,  Rev.  Jonas,  214. 

Clark,  Captain  Timo,  284. 

Clark's  shipyard,  site  of,  174,  178. 

Clark's  Square.     See  North  Square. 

Clark  Street,  19. 

Clark's  Wharf,  170.     See  Hancock's. 

Clark,  William,  residence  of,  163. 

Clarke,  Benjamin,  283. 

Clarke,  John,  55,  363. 

Clarke,  Richard,  store  and  residence 
of,  334.     Samuel,  59. 

Clay,  Henry,  193  ;  at  Tremont  House, 
290. 

Clifton  Place,  American  works  near, 
428. 

Clinton,  Sir  H.,  90,  103  ;  arrived  in 
Boston,  125,  127,  207;  at  council 
of  war,  243  ;  relieves  Howe,  244, 
245,  285,  310  ;  occupies  Hancock's 
House,  362. 

Clinton  Street,  Triangular  Warehouse 
in,  131. 

Club  House,  Park  Street,  builder, 
352 ;  Lafayette  resides  in,  352 ; 
Christopher  Gore,  Samuel  Dexter, 
George  Ticknor,  and  Malbone  live  in, 
352,  353  ;  a  boarding-house,  353  ; 
becomes  Club  House,  354. 

Coaches,  public  and  private,  first  used, 
25;  number  of,  in  1798,  25,  26. 

Cobb,  General  David,  100,  361,  364. 

Coburn,  John,  residence  of,  113. 

Cochituate  Lake,  23. 

Cockburn,  Admiral,  321. 

Cockerel  Church.    See  Second  Church. 

('oilman's  Buildings,  70. 

Codman,  John,  196,  389. 

Codman's  Wharf.  129. 

Collin,  Admiral  Sir  Isaac,  154,  309  ; 
birthplace  ami  sketch  of,  405;  en- 
dows Collin  School,  406. 


Coffin,  General  John,  154  ;  birthplace, 
4ii."). 

Coffin,  Captain  Hezekiah,  282. 

Coffin,  Lieutenant-Colonel,  116. 

Coffin,  Nathaniel,  405. 

Coffin,  Sir  Thomas  Aston,  154,  406. 

Coffin  School,  4(Mi. 

Collin,  William,  innkeeper,  105. 

Coffin,  William,  386,  406. 

Coggan,  John,  first  shopkeeper;  88. 

Colbron,  William,  field  of,  305. 

Colburn,  Jeremiah,  240. 

Cole  Lane  (Portland  Street),  126,  145. 

Cole's  (Samuel)  Inn,  first  in  Boston 
108,  109,  141. 

Cole,  Master  Samuel,  75. 

Collier,  Sir  George,  191. 

Collingwood,  Admiral,  116. 

Colman,  Rev.  Benjamin,  123,  138. 

Colonnade  Row,  built  and  named,  316  ; 
residents  of,  316,  317  ;  called  Fayette 
Place,  316,  317. 

Colson,  Adam,  282  ;  residence  of,  306. 

Columbian  Centinel,  office  of,  Ion,  101. 

Columbia  River,  named  for,  254. 

Comey's  Wharf,  182. 

Commercial  Coffee  House,  105. — See 
Bunch  of  Grapes,  —  location  of,  2S7. 

Commercial  Street  built,  128,  L53, 
198. 

Common,  The,  3,  4,  10,  17  ;  collector's 
boat  burnt  on,  170, 214,  289  ;  extent 
of,  296;  Granary  erected  on,  202, 
205,  299  ;  Park  Streel  built  on,  2'.".'; 
Almshouse,  Workhouse,  and  Bride- 
well on,  299;  spinning  exhibitions  on, 
302 ;  history  of,  305  ;  only  three  t  ret  s 
on,  305  ;  the  malls  planted*,  ■"."•">.  806  : 
more  territory  purchased  for,  S06; 
disfigured  by  camps,  806  :  fences  on. 
306,  :'>i'7  :  '-ailed  Centry  Field  and 
Training  Field,  807  ;  West  Street 
entrance,  313  ;  Mason  Street  the 
east  boundary,  81 1  ;  baj  Bcales  ami 
gun-house  on,  322  ;  guns  parked  on, 
in  1812,822  ;  Boylston  street  Mall, 
.",2:;  ;  ropewalks  on,  824  ;  the  lower 
part  a  marsh,  325  ;  to] 
325;  troops  embarked  tor  Lexington, 
826  ;  English  forces  on,  326  ;  mill* 
00 


450 


INDEX. 


tary  execution  on,  326  ;  a  permanent 
camp,  327  ;  position  of  British 
works  on,  327,  328  ;  an  intrenched 
canap,  328  ;  Powder  House  on,  329  ; 
ponds,  329  ;  executions  on,  331, 
332,  360  ;  duel  on,  332  ;  British 
hospital  and  guard-house  on,  332  ; 
Beacon  Street  Mall,  333  ;  review  by 
Lafayette,  355  ;  introduction  of  Co- 
chituate  water,  357  ;  Stamp  Act 
repeal,  358,  359  ;  review  of  events 
on,  358  ;  music  on,  359  ;  grazing 
and  executions  on,  discontinued,  360  ; 
Washington  reviews  Continental 
troops  on,  432. 

Common  Burying-Ground  opened,  323; 
uses  and  traditions  of,  323,  321  ; 
British  soldiers  buried  in,  323  ; 
British  fortification  near,  328. 

Common  Street  described,  412,  416. 

Commonwealth  Avenue,  124,  145  ; 
statue  in,  344. 

Conant,  Colonel,  214. 

Conduit  Street,  127. 

Concert  Hall,  70  ;  military  court  in, 
71  ;  early  use  by  Masons,  71  ;  office 
of  Customs  Commissioners,  71  ; 
grand  ball  to  Admiral  D'Estaing, 
71,  430. 

Concord,  N.  H.,  ancient  Rumford,  87. 

Congress  Hall.     See  Julien. 

Congress  House,  location  of,  281. 

Congress  Street,  37,  234,  264.  State 
Street  so  called,  89  ;  United  States 
Bank  in,  96  ;  Exchange  Coffee  House 
in,  99  ;  origin  of  name,  101  ;  made 
land,  109  ;  Quaker  church  and  burial- 
ground,  267,  268 ;  the  Anthology 
Club,  268 ;  part  called  Atkinson 
Street  and  Green  Lane,  271. 

Congress  Square,  Custom  House  in, 
106. 

Conscription  Riot,  1863,  223,  224. 

Constellation,  frigate,  171,  181. 

Constitution,  frigate,  139  ;  built,  180  ; 
history  and  exploits,  180  to  196  ; 
keel  laid,  181  ;  first  named  officially, 
181 ;  designers  and  mechanics  of, 
182  ;  figure-head,  183  ;  battery,  183  ; 
launch,   1S3,   184;    description   of, 


185;  rebuilt,  185  ;  first  cruise,  185, 
186  ;  commander,  186  ;  escape  from 
British  fleet,  187  ;  aneCdotes  of,  188, 
189  ;  named  Old  Ironsides,  189  ;  rel- 
ics of,  192  ;  figure-head  affair,  193, 
194,  195,  201  ;  her  sails  made  in 
the  Granary,  322. 

Constitution  Wharf,  191. 

Conway,  General,  140. 

Cooke's  Court,  65. 

Cooke,  Elisha,  house  of,  65. 

Cooledge,  Thomas,  282. 

Cooley,  Azariah,  innkeeper,  429. 

Coolidge,  Joseph,  196,  283. 

Cooper,  J.  Feniinore,  165  ;  historical 
error,  181. 

Cooper,  Rev.  Samuel,  123,  124. 

Cooper,  Samuel,  9. 

Cooper,  Thomas  A.,  191. 

Cooper,  Rev.  William,  123. 

Cooper,  William,  residence  of,  72. 

Copley,  John  S.,  4,  52,  67,  73,  122, 
140,  165  ;  residence  of,  334  ;  goes 
abroad,  35  ;  dies,  335  ;  sale  of  es- 
tate, 335,  336  ;  personal  appearance, 
336  ;  an  engraver,  336  ;  opinions  of 
his  works,  336. 

Copley,  Richard,  371. 

Copp,  Joanna,  205. 

Copp,  William,  198,  205. 

Copper  Street.     See.  Brighton. 

Copp's  Hill,  6,  7,  10,  17,  22,  24,  114  ; 
used  to  fill  Mill  Pond,  152,  158, 
176  ;  shipyards  at,  179  ;  description 
of,  198  ;  British  works  on,  199,  202- 
204 ;  bombardment  from,  207 
place  of  recreation,  208,  244,  399. 

Copp's  Hill  Burying-Ground,  157, 159  ; 
Mather's  tomb,  162,  163,  199  ;  de- 
scription of,  204,  205  ;  inscriptions, 
205,  206. 

Coram,  Captain  Thomas,  30. 

Corn  Court,  United  States  Court 
House  in,  106  ;  named,  141. 

Cornish,  Catherine,  16. 

Cornish,  William,  16. 

Corn  Hill.     See  Fort  Hill. 

Cornhill  (Old),  22,  55,  72  ;  origin  of 
name,  76  ;  first  clock  placed  in,  85 ; 
extent  of,    88,    89 ;    Post-Office  in, 


INDEX. 


451 


104 ;  Town  Pump  in,  118  ;  Blue 
Anchor  in,  121  ;  emblematic  signs 
in,  146  ;  booksellers  in,  338  ;  named 
Washington  Street,  420. 

Cornhill  (New),  42,  75 ;  built  and 
called  Market  Street,  76,  104. 

Cornhill  Court,  84. 

Cornhill  Square,  84. 

Corn  Market    141. 

Cornwallis,  Lord,  capitulation  of,  436. 

Cotting  Uriah,  46,  248  ;  buried,  296  ; 
builds  Mill-Dam,  333  ;  residence,365, 
366  ;  builds  New  Cornhill,  76  ;  Broad 
Street,  110  ;  India  Street,  111. 

Cotton  Hill,  6,  8,  9,  34,  47  ;  Andros's 
house  near,  228,  391. 

Cotton,  John,  7, 11,  35,  47,  48  ;  house, 
50,  51 ;  estate,  52,  56,  63,  91,  101, 
412. 

Cotton,  manufacture  of,  begun,  322. 

Couronne,  French  ship,  437. 

Court  Avenue,  84. 

Court  dress,  described,  245,  246. 

Court  House,  44  ;  new,  57 ;  old  Coun- 
ty, description  of,  59  ;  present,  77  ; 
old  brick  Court  House,  78  ;  County, 
78  ;  Municipal,  78  ;  present,  built, 
79,  82  ;  old  State  House  used  as, 
90  ;  present,  94  ;  architect  of,  312. 

Court  Street,  42,  47,  68, 71,  75  ;  Prison 
Lane,  77 ;  Queen  Street,  77,  79 ; 
headquarters  newspaper  press,  81, 
82  ;  cannon  concealed  in,  315. 

Coventry  Street,  52. 

Cow  Lane.     See  High  Street. 

Cral  (tree,  Mr. ,  builds  Causeway,  151. 

Cradock,  George,  42,  56. 

Cradock,  Mathew,  47. 

Crafts,  Eben,  301. 

Crafts,  Colonel  Thomas,  221. 

Crane,  John,  Tea  Party,  282  ;  injured 
on  tea  ship,  283  ;  plants  trees  in 
Paddock's  Mall,  294,  295  ;  residence 
and  anecdote  of,  412  ;  destroys 
Brown's  house,  427. 

Crawford,  Thomas,  38. 

Crawford,  William  11.,  197. 

Creek  Lane,  127,  144  ;  named,  145. 

Crescent  Place,  373. 

Crocker,  Hannah  M.,  161,  166,  215. 


Crockett,  David,  45. 

Cromwell,  Oliver,  13,  51,  61,  83. 

Cromwell's  Head,  61,  62. 

Crooked  Lane,  94.    See  Wilson's  Lane. 

Cross  Street,  127  ;  destroyed,  154,  158. 

Cross  Tavern,  154. 

Crosswell,  Rev.  Andrew,  64. 

Crown  Coffee  House,  location,  112. 

Crown  Point.     See  Ticonderoga. 

Cumberland,  frigate,  1^5. 

Cummings,  G.,  innkeeper,  398. 

Gushing,  Judge,  residence  of,  337. 

Gushing,  Thomas  (Lieutenant-Govern- 
or), 57,  136,  180  ;  birthplace,  248  ; 
dies,  248  ;  burial-place,  248. 

Cushman,  Charlotte,  394. 

Custom  House,  Royal,  42,  76,  94,  156, 
157;  First  United  States,  103,  105, 
106;  figures  on,  106  ;  in  Custom 
House  Street,  etc.,  106;  ships  built 
on  site  of,  112  ;  present,  columns  of, 
94,  112,  131  ;  State,  142. 

Cutler,  Timothy,  I).  D.,  first  rector  of 
Christ  Church,  residence  of,  215. 

Cyane,  sloop-of-war,  185. 

(vane,  frigate,  186;  captured,  191; 
'flag  of,  193. 


D. 


Dacres,  Admiral  James  R.,  ancedotes 
of,  99,  100,  189. 

Daille,  Rev.  Pierre,  64. 

Dale.  Captain  Richard,  182. 

Dalrymple,  Colonel,  347. 

Dalton,  l'eter  Roe,  Cashier  United 
States  Hank,  96. 

Dana,  Edmund  T.,  38. 

Dana,  Richard,  100  :  residence  of,  l"-J. 

Darracott,  George,  205. 

Darley,  Mrs.,  <l<''»'l  of,  318. 

Dartmouth,  tea  Bhip,  282. 

Dassettfs  /Uley,  7'.». 

Davenport,  Rev.  Aldington,  first  rec- 
tor of  Trinity,886,  387. 

Davenport,  .lames,  innkeeper,  16& 

Davenport,  Jean  Margaret,  tUbut  in 
Bo  ton,  378, 

Davenport,  John,  35  ;  house,  5.".,  .".>:. 


452 


INDEX. 


Daviea  Lane,  352. 
Davis,  Caleb,  389. 
Davis,  Admiral  Charles  H.,  birthplace 

and  sketch  of,  364. 
Davis,  Daniel,  residence  and  sketch  of, 

364 
Davis,  Deacon,  243. 
Davis,  Isaac,  345. 
Davis,  Isaac  P.,  273. 
Davis,    John,    report     of    codfish ery, 

348. 
Davis,  Judge  John,  100,  370. 
Davis,  Major,  138. 
Dawes,   Major    Thomas,    architect   of 

Brattle    Street    Church,    122,    269  ; 

birthplace,  281  ;  fireward,  295,   398. 
Day,  Captain  James,  innkeeper,  286. 
Dean,  John  Ward,  139. 
Dean,  Julia,  first  appearance  in  Boston, 

378. 
Deane,  American  frigate,  221. 
Deane,  Silas,  251,  310. 
Dearborn,  General  Henry,  100  ;  Collec- 
tor of  Boston,  105,    106  ;  residence 

of,  106  ;  married,  253,  364,  410. 
Dearborn,  H.  A.  S.,  106,  298. 
De  Beaumetz,  M.,  141. 
Decatur,  Stephen,  186,  187, 188,  197. 
Dedham   Street,   419 ;   British  works 

near,  426. 
De  Genlis,  Madame,  141,  142. 
De  Joinville,    Prince,  in   Boston,  139, 

140. 
Delano,  Mrs  ,  boarding-house  of,  362. 
Delight,  privateer,  171. 
Derby,  George  H.,  anecdote  of,  291. 
Derby,  Richard,  269. 
Deme  Street,  351. 
Descriptions  by  early  travellers,  16, 17, 

18,  19. 
Deshon,  Moses,  135. 
D'Estaing,  Count,  in  Boston,  71,  91, 

103  ;  reception  in  Faneuil  Hall,  138, 

232,  339  ;  anecdote  of,  341,  356. 
Deux    Ponts,   Count  Christian,   434 ; 

Count  William,  434. 
Devonshire  Street,  98,  254. 
Dewey,  Captain,  194. 
Dexter,  Aaron,  269. 
Dexter,  Mrs.,  120,  307. 


Dexter,  Samuel,  114  ;  residence  and 
sketch  of,  353,  354,  370,  414. 

Dibdin,  Dr.,  336. 

Dickens,  Charles,  at  Tremont  House 
290,  293. 

Dickinson,  John,  Liberty  Song  of,  252. 

Dickinson,  Thomas,  196. 

Dickson,  J.  A.,  256,  257,  318. 

Dike  built  on  the  Neck,  420. 

Distilleries  in  1722,  18  ;  oldest  in  Bos- 
ton, 406  ;  Avery's,  406  ;  Haskins's, 
406  ;  number  in  Boston  in  1794, 
406  ;  Henry  Hill,  406. 

Distill-House  Square,  151  ;  named,  371. 

Ditson,  Oliver,  and  Company,  223. 

Dock  Square.  56,  126  ;  covered  by 
tides,  127,  130  ;  old  market  in,  134  ; 
riot  of  1863,  142. 

Dolbier,  Edward,  283,  410. 

Done,  Joseph,  49. 

Doolittle's  Tavern,  154. 

Dorchester  annexed,  23,  160. 

Dorchester  Artillery,  316. 

Dorchester  Heights,  208,  359. 

Dorchester  Neck,  23,  425. 

Dorr  Rebellion,  106.  * 

Dorsett's  Alley,  79. 

Doty,  Colonel,  innkeeper,  392. 

Dover  Street,  shipyard  near,  419. 

Dow,  Lorenzo,  173. 

Downes,  Commodore  John,  residence 
of,  111,  159. 

Dowse,  Thomas,  library  of,  40. 

Doyle,  William  M.  S.,  41. 

Drake,  Samuel  G,  170,  365. 

Dramatic  Museum,  site  of,  404. 

Draper's  Alley,  121. 

Draper,  John,  residence  of,  121. 

Dress  of  the  Puritans,  11. 

Drowne,  Deacon  Shem,  135,  236. 

Dry  Dock,  Charlestown,  opened,  139, 
185. 

Dryden,  John,  15,  63. 

Dubuque,  residence  of,  270. 

Duck  Manufactory,  location  and  his- 
tory of,  322. 

Du  Coudray,  M.,  86,  328. 

Dudley,  Governor  Joseph,  31. 

Dudley,  Governor  Thomas,  225. 

Duff,  Mr.,  257. 


INDEX. 


453 


Duke  of  Argyle,  272. 

Duke  of  Bolton,  384. 

Dumaresq,  Philip,  residence  of,  372, 
386. 

Dumas,  Count  Mathieu,  434. 

Dummer,  Jeremiah,  residence  of,  102  ; 
birthplace,  103. 

Dummer,  Governor  William,  40 ;  resi- 
dence of,  102,  103. 

Dunbar,  battle  of,  prisoners  from,  13. 

Dunlap,  William,  335. 

Dunster,  Henry,  estate  of,  84. 

Dunton,  John,  122. 

Duplessis,  147. 

Dupont,  Admiral,  364. 

Du  Portail,  General,  285. 

Durivage,  F.  A.,  104. 

Duvivier,  P.  S.  B.,  makes  die  for 
Washington  Medal,  432. 

Dyar,  Mary,  hung,  330. 

E. 

Eagle  Theatre,  history  of,  378. 
Earl's  Coffee  House,  70,  154. 
East  Boston,  14,  23. 
East  Boston  Company,  23. 
East  Cambridge  Bridge,  7. 
Eastern  Avenue,  168. 
Eastern  Military  District,  383. 
Eastern  Stage  House,  location  of,  154. 
Eastham,  49. 

Eaton,  Amherst,  innkeeper,  430. 
Eayres,  Joseph,  2S2. 
Eekley,  Rev.  Joseph,  buried,  296. 
Edes,  Benjamin  (and  Gill),  prints  Bos- 
ton Gazette   and  Country  Journal, 

80  ;  office,   81  ;  Tea  Party   council, 

81  ;  prints  for  Provincial  Congress, 
81  ;  house,  121. 

Edes,  Thomas,    Governor  Hutchinson 

concealed  in  his  house,  166. 
Edict  of  Nantes,  54. 
Edinboro'  Street,  407. 
Edwards,  Jonathan,  72. 
Edwards,  Rev.  Justin,  220. 
Eleanor,  tea  ship,  2*2. 
Election  Sermon  (Artillery).  138. 
Elgin,  Earl  of,  in  Boston,  1  to. 
Eliot,  Andrew,  buried,  207. 


Eliot,  John,  39,  155;  residence,  174; 
buried.  207. 

Eliot,  Samuel,  56,  196. 

Eliot,  Samuel  A.,  56. 

Eliot  School,  65  ;  history  of,  218 ; 
present  school  dedicated,  219;  re- 
bellion of  pupils,  219. 

Eliot  Street,  416. 

Elliott,  General,  262. 

Elliott,  Commodore  Jesse  D.,  1S6  ; 
affair  of  figure-head,  194,  195. 

Ellis,  Joshua,  165,  207. 

Ellis,  Rowland,  165. 

Elm,  The  Great,  10,  305,  329  ;  witch- 
craft executions,  330  ;  age  and  sketch 
of,  330,  331,  334. 

Elm  neighborhood,  396. 

Elm  Street,  102  ;  headquarters  of 
stages,  126  ;  widened,  145.  .Set- 
Wing's  Lane 

Embargo  of  1812,  116. 

Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo,  385. 

Emerson,  William,  38,  385. 

Emmons,  Commodore  G.  P.,  180,  185. 

Endicott,  Governor  John,  5,  11.  40; 
house,  47,  48,  53,  56,  58  ;  portraits 
of,  346,  347. 

Endicott  Street,  151. 

England,  Church  of.  33,  34. 

English  Bigh,  and  Latin  Schools,  390. 

English,  Thomas,  residence  of,  390. 

Enterprise,  schooner,  171. 

Episcopalians,  4,  15. 

Erving,  Colonel  John,  295  ;  residence, 
267. 

Erving,  Colonel  John,  Jr.,  263  :  resi- 
dence, and  funeral  of  Governor 
Shirley  from,  267. 

Essex  Coffee  Bouse  (Salem),  201. 

Essex,  frigate,  171. 

Essex  Junior,  111. 

Essex  street,  53;  Boston  Library  in, 
255,  101,  404  ;  residents  of,  107 
41 1). 

Eustis  street,  Roxbury,  Shirley  man- 
sion in,  239. 

Eustis's  Wharf,  182. 

Everett.  Edward,  6,  15,  60,  128,  124  ; 
School,  219  ;  residence,  219,  250. 

Everett,  ( Solonel,  364. 


454 


INDEX. 


Ewer,  Charles,  projects  South  Cove 
and  Avon  Street  improvements,  365, 
411. 

Exchange  (present),  83  ;  in  Old  State 
House,  89  ;  United  States  Bank  on 
site  of,  95,  101,  104  ;  in  Congress 
Street,  269. 

Exchange  Coffee  House,  91  ;  history 
and  description  of,  98,  99  ;  burnt, 
99,  100  ;  banquet  to  Bainbridge, 
190  ;  Willard  works  on,  311  ;  con- 
flagration of,  311  ;  dinner  to  Lafay- 
ette, 355,  403. 

Exchange  Street,  56,  96  ;  description, 
101. 

Extinguisher,  Engine  House,  402. 


Fairbanks,  Richard,  first  Postmaster 
of  Boston,  104. 

Familists,  51. 

Faneuil,  Andrew,  54,  64,  101  ;  ware- 
house, 108,  112  ;  corner,  114,  115, 
163. 

Faneuil,  Benjamin,  30,  112 ;  store, 
129,  386  ;  funeral  of,  390. 

Faneuil  Hall  Market,  76,  127.  See 
Quincy  Market,  130. 

Faneuil' Hall,  30,  39,  44,  54,  55; 
Lovell's  address  in,  57  ;  used  as 
Town  House,  59  ;  Trumbull  exhibits 
his  picture  in,  73  ;  Knox's  portrait, 
86  ;  British  troops,  89  ;  Eagle  from 
United  States  Bank,  95,  102  ;  site, 
127  ;  a  market,  130  ;  history  and 
description  of,  133  to  141  ;  portraits 
in,  140,  141  ;  called  Cradle  of  Lib- 
erty, 133  ;  burnt,  135  ;  enlarged, 
135  ;  grasshopper  on,  135,  193  ;  Tea 
Party  meeting,  229 ;  anecdote  of, 
249  ;  theatre"  in,  260  ;  Dalrym  - 
pie's  regiment  quartered  in,  303  ; 
Phillips's  first  antislavery  speech 
in,  337  ;  lottery  authorized  to  re- 
build, 343 ;  toast  by  Lafayette,  355 ; 
anti-Mexican  war-meetings,  379, 
403. 

Faneuil,  Peter,  30 :  estate,  54,  55,  57  ; 
warehouse,  112,  129  ;  builds  Faneuil 


Hall,  134,  135  ;  death,  136 ;  por- 
trait, 141,  236,  253  i  the  Wood- 
bridge-Phillips  duel;  113,  3S6 ;  at- 
tends Trinity  Church,  387. 

Faneuil,  Susannah  M.,  253. 

Farragut,  Admiral  D.  G.,  364. 

Farwell,  J.  E.,  267. 

Faust's  statue,  sign  of,  252. 

Fayette  Place.     See  Colonnade  Row. 

Fayette  Street.     See  South  Allen. 

Federal  Band,  262.  See  J.  Howard 
Payne. 

Federal  Street,  25  ;  Theatre,  256  ;  fish 
taken  in,  264. 

Federal  Street  Church,  89  ;  site  and 
description  of,  263  ;  anecdote  of  the 
vane,  263  ;  Federal  Convention  held 
in,  263,  264  ;  rebuilt,  264. 

Felt,  J.  B.,  423. 

Fenno,  John,  keeper  of  the  Granary, 
'  299. 

Ferries,  24  ;  Charlestown,  202  ;  inci- 
dents of,  203. 

Fifth  British  regiment,  113,  116  ;  at 
Bunker  Hill,  203. 

Fifty-second  British  regiment,  177. 

Fifty-ninth  British  regiment  at  Bunker 
Hill,  203;  posted  on  the  Neck, 
425. 

Five  Points,  153. 

Fillmore,  Millard,  in  Boston,  371. 

Finn,  Henry  J.,  257  ;  died,  258,  292. 

Fire  Department,  origin  of,  19,  20; 
reforms  in,  56. 

Fire  engine,  first,  19  ;  first  made  in 
Boston,  20. 

Fires  of  1654,  1676,  1678, 19  ;  of  1825, 
23  ;  of  1787,  416. 

First  Baptist  Church,  150  ;  history 
and  location,  222  ;  organized,  227, 
363. 

First  Battalion  Marines,  British,  177. 

First  book  printed  in  Boston,  82. 

First  buildings,  character  of,  9. 

First  Church,  7,  35,  50,  55,  56  ;  second 
location,  84  ;  Old  Brick,  84,  85  ;  first 
site,  91,  102  ;  burnt,  113  ;  John 
Hull  member  of,  211,  363  ;  estate, 
382,  385  ;  removal,  3S5  ;  relics  of 
the  Old  Brick,  3*5. 


INDEX. 


455 


First  clock  set  up,  85. 

First  Directory  published  in  Boston, 

no. 

First  glass-works,  location  and  sketch 
of,  408  ;  destroyed,  408. 

First  Methodist  Church,  172,  173  ; 
accident  in,  173. 

First  newspaper  printed  in  Boston, 
16. 

First  stone  block,  71. 

First  Sunday  school  in  New  England, 
374. 

First  Universalist  Church,  172, 173. 

First  war  vessel  built  in  Boston,  179. 

Fish  market,  location  of,  127. 

Fish  Street  (North),  20,  153  ;  de- 
scription of,  158. 

Fitche,  Colonel,  307. 

Flagg  Alley  (Change  Avenue),  105. 

Flags  used  by  Americans,  431. 

Flagstaff  Hiil,  Old,  British  works  on. 
328. 

Flat  Conduit,  127. 

Fleet,  Thomas,  printing-office  of,  234. 

Fleet  Street,  161  ;  gardens  of  Gov- 
ernor Hutchinson  on,  167  ;  named, 
168,  220. 

Fleming,  John,  107.     See  Mein. 

Flounder  Lane  2S1. 

Flucker,  Thomas,  residence  of,  271  ; 
Lucy,  271. 

Fuller  Sarah  Margaret  (Countess  d'Os- 
soli),  residence  and  school  of,  312  ; 
shipwreck  and  death  of,  312,  392. 

Fulton  Street,  128. 

Forbes,  R.  B.,  161. 

Fore  Street,  The,  7,  152,  219. 

Forest  Hills,  General  Warren  en- 
tombed at,  311. 

Fort  Du  Quesne,  125. 

Fort  Field.     See  Fort  Hill. 

Fort  George,  168. 

Fort  Hill,  6,  7,  17,  115  ;  embargo  flag 
on,  lit!,  176;  shipyards  at,  17'.': 
illumination  on,  209  ;  great,  fire  of, 
1 7<">< >,  27-!  ;  Revolutionary  fort  lev 
elled,  272;  fortified,  284;  garrison 
of,  285  ;  works  strengthened,  285; 
guns  removed,  285  ;  rejoicings  on, 
260  ;  description  of,  287,  258  ;  lev- 


elled, 2S8  ;  Stamp  Act  troubles,  399, 
409  ;  hill  fortified,  424. 

Fort  Hill  Block,  280. 

Fort  Independence,  2S0.     See  Castle. 

Fort  Lee  (N.  Y.),  incident  of,  374. 

Fort  Snelling  named,  221. 

Fort  Washington,  incident  of,  373. 

Forty-ninth  British  regiment,  part  of, 
in  Lexington  expedition,  304. 

Forty-seventh  British  regiment,  177, 
229. 

Forty-third  British  regiment,  177. 

Foster.  John,  prints  first  book  in  Bos- 
ton, 82. 

Foster  Street,  200,  211.     See  ('lark. 

Foster,  William,  innkeeper,  105. 

Foster,  William,  residence  of,  306, 
313,  404. 

Foster's  Wharf.     See  Wheelwright's. 

Foundling  Hospital,  London.  Eng- 
land, 30. 

Fourth  Baptist  Church,  site  of,  267. 

Fourth  British  regiment,  part  of,  in 
Lexington  expedition,  304. 

Fourteenth  British  regiment,  quarters 
of,  271  ;  on  the  Common,  326. 

Fowle,  William  B.,  145. 

Fowle,  Zachariah,  printing-office  of, 
223. 

Fo\.  British  ship,  220. 

Foxcroft,  Thomas,  55. 

Fox  Hill  levelled,  325,  328. 

Frankland,  Sir  Charles  II..  30,  97  ; 
residence,  M2  ;  Lady  Frankland, 
163,  165;  description  of  house.  168, 
164,165,236;  narrow  escape  of,  121. 

Frankland,  Lady,  narrow  escape  of,  121. 

Franklin  Avenue  (Doreett'a  Alley), 
79  ;  part  of  Brattle  street.  7:'. 

Franklin,  Benjamin,  57  ;  anecdotes  of, 
58  ;  apprentice  in  Queen  Street,  SM ; 
publishes  Courant,  S|»  ;  his  old  press, 
80,  i  15  ;  birthplace,  1  (6  ;  original 
portraits,  1  17.  162  ;  obtains  Hutch- 
inson's letters,  166  :  baptized,  229, 
249  ;  anecdote  of,  251  ;  born,  252  ; 
Mrs.  (Reed),  B0. 

Franklin,  .lames,  prints   Boston  Ga- 
zette, 7'.'  :  N.  K.  Courant,  7'.'  .  I 
deii  to  print  Courant,  80,  LOS,  104 


456 


INDEX. 


Franklin,  Josias,  his  sign  and  shop, 
146,  252. 

Franklin  Place,  255. 

Franklin  School,  Charles  Sprague  at- 
tends,  417. 

Franklin  Statue,  57,  58,  337. 

Franklin  Street,  9,  39,  75,  227  ;  a  bog, 
254  ;  reclamation  of,  254. 

Fraser,  Colonel  Simon,  his  regiment  on 
Boston  Common,  326  ;  death  and 
burial  at  Stillwater,  327. 

Frederick,  Francis,  hanged,  424. 

Freeman,  James,  39. 

Freeman  Place  Chapel,  built  on  site  of 
Governor  Phillips's  house,  362. 

Freemason's  Arms,  150.  See  Green 
Dragon  Tavern. 

Freemasons'  first  Lodge  in  Boston, 
150. 

Freemason's  Hall  (Tremont  Street) 
burnt,  318. 

French  and  Indian  war,  20. 

French  army,  entry  into  Boston  of,  433 
to  437  ;  composition  of,  433  ;  uni- 
form and  band,  434 ;  embarkation, 
437. 

French  Artillery,  uniform  of,  de- 
scribed, 436. 

French  Huguenot  Church,  63  ;  de- 
scription of,  64  ;  occupied  by  Cath- 
olics, 256. 

Freneau,  Philip,  lines  of,  on  General 
Gage,  427. 

Free  Writing-School,  75. 

Friends  of  Liberty,  resort  of,  70. 

Frizell's  Square.     See  North  Square. 

Frog  Lane.     See  Boylston  Street. 

Frog  Pond,  329. 

Front  Street.      See  Harrison  Avenue. 

Frothingham,  Nathaniel,  282. 

Frothingham,  Mr.,  313,  322. 

Frothingham,  Richard,  Jr.,  116. 

Fuller,  Sarah  Margaret,  312. 


G. 


Gage,  General  Thomas,  53,  57,  90  ; 
lands  at  Long  Wharf,  115  ;  chariot, 
116,   123,   124,  125,  127,  137,  149, 


168,  203,  208,  216,  225,  236;  in 
Province  House,  242,  24j3  ;  married, 
243  ;  resemblance  to  Samuel  Adams, 
243;   proclamation    ridiculed,    -IL 

247,  272,  293,  326,  340  ;  portrait  of, 
348,  369,  426,  427. 

Gallery  of  Fine  Arts,  130. 

Gallows,  position  of,  423  ;  anecdote 
about,  423  ;  executions,  424. 

Gamba,  Count,  193. 

Gammell,  T.,  283. 

Garden  Court  Street,  162,  164. 

Garden  Street,  370. 

Gardiner,  John,  261. 

Gardner,  Gideon,  innkeeper,  428. 

Gardner,  John  S.  J.,  38,  386. 

Gardner,  Eliza  G,  340. 

Garrison,  William  Lloyd,  379. 

Gas  first  used  in  Boston,  22. 

Gates,  General  Horatio,  66,  73,  103, 
144,  145;  anecdote  of,  232,  310; 
commands  in  Boston,  383  ;  anecdote 
of,  3S3,  429. 

Gay  Alley  (Brattle  Street),  71. 

Gay,  John,  1. 

Gay,  Timothy,  206. 

Gee,  Joshua,  shipyard  of,  179 ;  resi- 
dence, 202,  204. 

Geographical  divisions,  10. 

George  I.,  102. 

George  II.,  90  ;  portrait,  140,  167. 

George  III.,  58 ;  accession  last  pro- 
claimed in  Boston,  90, 167  ;  outlaws 
Hancock  and  Adams,  308,  309. 

George  Street.     See  Hancock. 

George  Tavern,  Governor  Burnet's  re- 
ception at,  238. 

George  Tavern  (St.  George),  American 
advanced  post  at,  428  ;  burnt,  42S  ; 
history  of,  428,  429,  430 ;  anecdotes 
of,  430. 

Gerry,  Elbridge,  70,  201. 

Gerrish,  Thomas,  282. 

Geyer,  Frederic,  residence  of,  3S9. 

Geyer,  Nancy  W.,  390. 

Gibben's  shipyard,  location  of,  419. 

Gibbs,  MajorCaleb  (of  Boston),  182. 

Gill,  John  (Edes  and),  imprisoned  by 
Howe,  81.     See  Edes. 

Gilman,  Arthur,  bS. 


INDEX. 


457 


Glasgow,  British  frigate,  207,  208. 

Glass  manufacture  begun  in  Massa- 
chusetts, 408. 

Goddard,  Benjamin,  196. 

Goddard,  Nathaniel,  196. 

Goffe,  General  William,  55. 

Gooch,  Captain,  brave  deed  of,  373. 

Goodrich,  Henry,  286. 

Go'odwin,  Benjamin,  yard  of,  180,  201, 
204. 

Goodwin's  Wharf,  202. 

Gordon,  General  Hugh  McKay,  154. 

Gore,  Governor  Christopher,  39,  45, 
72;  defends  Selfridge,  114,  190, 
269  ;  residence  described,  279  ; 
sketch  of,  279  ;  personal  appear- 
ance, 280  ;  resides  in  Park  Street, 
352,  389. 

Gore  Hall  named,  280. 

Gore,  Samuel,  72,  282,  314,  408. 

Gorges,  Robert,  4. 

Gorham,  Mr.,  residence  of,  275. 

Gouch  Street  named,  373  ;  noted  for, 
374. 

Gould  and  Lincoln,  bookstore  of,  402. 

Gould,  John,  215. 

Government  of  Boston,  14. 

Government  House.  See  Province 
House,  246. 

Governor's  Alley,  64. 

Governor's  Dock,  location  of,  114. 

Governor's  Foot  Guards.     See  Cadets. 

Governor's  House.  See  Province 
House. 

Grafton,  Duke  of,  140. 

Grand  Lodge  occupy  Old  State  House, 
91. 

Granary,  Constitution's  sails  made  in, 
182;  the  site  of,  298;  description 
and  uses  of,  299  ;  removed,  299. 

Granary  Burying-Ground,  54,  76,  204  ; 
Governor  Cushing  buried  in,  24S, 
289  ;  history  of,  296,  297,  298  ;  noted 
persons  buried  in,  296,  297  ;  Prank 
lin  cenotaph,  29S ;  called  South 
Burying-Ground,  298  ;  Faneuiltomb, 
296 ;  victims  of  Boston  Massacre 
buried  in,  297  ;  filled  with  bodies, 
298 ;  tombs  erected  in,  298  ;  en 
larged,  298  ;  legends  of,  298;  stone 
20 


wall  built,  298,  307,  323  ;  Benjamin 
Woodbridge  buried  in,  332  ;  Gov- 
ernor Eustis  buried  in,  366. 

Grant,  Moses,  2(>»>,  282,  314. 

Grant,  U.  S.,  105  ;  James,  24.3. 

Graupner's  Hall,  394. 

Graves,  Admiral  Thomas,  residence  of, 
272. 

Graves,  Daniel,  206. 

Gray,  Edward,  273. 

Gray,  Harrison,  44,  245,  273 ;  pro- 
scribed,  274  ;  goes  to  London,  274. 

Gray,  John,  273. 

Gray,  Captain  Robert,  discoverer  of 
Columbia  Liver. 

Gray,  Thomas,  38. 

Cray,  William.  201,  324,  3S2. 

Gray's  Wharf,  201. 

Great  Mall,  The,  305,  306  ;  first  trees 
planted  in,  306  ;  description  of,  306; 
trees  cut  down  by  British,  306  ;  in 
cidents  of,  310,  3(50. 

Greeley,  Horace,  312. 

Green,  Bartholomew,  prinl    N>  v.     Let- 
ter at,  ,s-2  ;  residence,  98  ;  |  i 
office,  392. 

Green  Dragon  Tavern,  64,  148,  1  19, 
150. 

Green,  Joseph,  33,  66  ;  residence,  67  ; 
lampoons  the  Masons.  96  ;  residence, 
07,  414. 

Green,  Jeremiah,  2S5. 

Green,  John  (and  Russell)  office,  76,  81. 

Green  Lane  (Salem  Street  |,  153,  210. 

Green  Lane,     See  Congress  Street. 

Green,  Samuel,  innkeeper.  1 7" >. 

Green  Street,  151  ;  residents  of,  372; 
church,  373. 

Green  Store  Battery,  -125. 

Greene,  Albert  <;..  800. 

Greene,  Gardiner,  -17  ;   resides 
53  ;  President  of  the  United  states 
Bank,  94  ;  Copley  'sag  at,  9 
389. 

Greene,  General   Nathaniel,  66,    lit. 
282,  810  ;   to  a  Mtult    B< 
commands  in  B  105. 

Greenleafs  Gardens.     See  Wash! 
Gardens. 

Greenleaf,  Dr.  John,  121. 


458 


INDEX. 


Greenleaf,    Stephen,    304 ;    residence, 

313,  352. 
Greenleaf,  William,  reads  Declaration 

of  Independence,  91. 
Greenough,  Henry,  247. 
Greenough,  Richard  S.,  38,  57,-58,  226. 
Green's  Barracks,  271. 
Greenwood,  Ethan  A.,  42. 
Greenwood,  Rev.  F.  W.  P.,  30. 
Greuze,  147. 
Gridley,  Jeremy,  71,  314  ;  residence, 

402. 
Gridley,  General   Richard,  at  Bunker 

Hill,  208,  426 ;   lays  out  works  on 

Neck,  427. 
Griffin,  Rev.  Edward  D.,  301. 
Griffin's  Wharf,  410.     See  Liverpool. 
Griggs,  John,  recollections  of  Boston 

Neck,  426. 
Grove  Street,  370  ;  Medical  College  in, 

377. 
Growth  and  progress  of  Boston,  23. 
Gruchy,  Captain,  200,  215. 
Guerriere,  British  frigate,  99, 188, 1S9, 

190  ;  flag  of,  193. 
Guiccioli,  Countess,  193. 
Gun-house,  on  Copp's    Hill,  204  ;   in 

Cooper  Street,  223  ;  attack  on,  224  ; 

on  Fort  Hill,  2S8. 
Gun-house  in  West   Street,  314;   re- 
moval of  guns  from,  314  ;  history  of 

the  grins  Hancock  and  Adams,  315  ; 

one  on  the  Common,  322  ;  removed 

to  Pleasant  Street,  322. 
Gun-house  (Thaeher  Street),  materials 

of,  375. 
Gunpowder  Plot.     See  Pope  Day,  149. 

H. 

Hackett,  James  H.,   first  appearance 

in  Boston,  368. 
Hagen,  P.  von,  303. 
Haley,  Madam,  52. 
Half-Square  Court,  98  ;  Custom  House 

in,  106. 
Halifax,  Lord,  78. 
Halifax,  N.  S.,  32;  patriots  carried  to, 

65. 


Hall,  Captain  James,  2S2. 

Hallowell,  Benjamin,  residence  of, 
148  ;  assaulted,  170;  273,  285. 

Hallowell,  Benjamin  Carew,  148. 

Hallowell's  shipyard,  275,  287. 

Hamilton,  Alexander,  296  ;  statue  of, 
344. 

Hamilton,  Colonel,  355. 

Hamilton  College,  381. 

Hamilton  Place,  39  ;  Manufactory 
House  in,  301  ;  built,  304. 

Hamilton  Street,  286. 

Hammock,  John,  215. 

Hancock,  Ebenezer,  66 ;  office  and 
residence,  144,  145. 

Hancock,  frigate,  220. 

Hancock  House,  141. 

Hancock,  Governor  John,  24,  40,  42, 
43,  44,  49  ;  house  occupied  by  Per- 
cy, 53,  57,  69,  71  ;  portrait  by 
Trumbull,  73,  91,  110  ;  gives  a  bell 
to  Brattle  Street  Church,  122,  123, 
124,  125  ;  store,  129,  130 ;  portrait, 
140,  141  ;  builds  Hancock's  Row, 
144 ;  Pope  Day,  150  ;  warehouses, 
170,  176,  208,  214  ;  address  on  Mas- 
sacre, 228,  233,  248  ;  action  to  sup- 
press theatres,  261  ;  gives  bell  and 
vane  to  Federal  Street  Church,  263  ; 
presides  over  Federal  Convention, 
264  ;  widow,  264  ;  commands  Ca- 
dets, 293  ;  commission  revoked, 
294 ;  fireward,  295  ;  tomb  of,  296  ; 
funeral,  297,  308  ;  anecdote  of,  309  ; 
house,  338  ;  extent  of  estate,  338, 
339  ;  description  of  mansion,  339, 
340 ;  pillaged,  340  ;  quarters  of 
General  Clinton,  340  ;  incidents  of, 
340,  341,  342  ;  anecdotes  of,  341 ;  dies 
intestate,  341  ;  sketch  of,  341,  342  ; 
personal  appearance,  343  ;  350  ;  in- 
troduces music  on  Common,  359, 
393  ;  dinner  to  Rochambeau's  offi- 
cers, 437. 

Hancock,  John  (son  of  Ebenezer), 
349. 

Hancock,  Lydia,  residence  of,  76  ;  gives 
her  mansion  to  Governor  John,  338, 
342. 

Hancock,  Madam,  anecdote  of,  341. 


INDEX. 


459 


Hancock  mansion,  history  of,  338  to 

343  ;  efforts  to  preserve  it,  341,  342  ; 

demolished,  342  ;  Stamp  Act  repeal, 

359,  3(32. 
Hancock's  Row  built,  144. 
Hancock  School,  155. 
Hancock   Street,    named,    352 ;  called 

George  Street,  352. 
Hancock,  Thomas,  76,  130,  163  ;  his 

wharf,    170 ;    funeral,    208  ;    builds 

house  on  Beacon  Street,  338,   342, 

351. 
Hancock's  Wharf,  description  of,  170  ; 

events  at,  170,  171  ;  Lafayette  lands 

at,  356. 
Handel,  32. 
Handel  and  Haydn  Society,  sketch  of, 

394  ;  occupy  Boylston  Hall,  403. 
Hanover  Avenue,  172. 
Hanover      Church.        See      Beecher's 

Church. 
Hanover,    Massachusetts,    anchors   of 

frigate  Constitution  made  at,  182. 
Hanover  Square,  396. 
Hanover  Street,  10,  19,  25,  68,  70,  75, 

130,  143,  144  ;  widened,  145  ;  Frank- 
lin's birthplace,  146  ;  -widened,  147  ; 

bridged,    152  ;     a  neck,    152,   161  ; 

Governor  Hutchinson's  gardens,  167, 

172,  173. 
Hanover  Street   Church    (Methodist), 

415. 
Harper,  Mr.,  256. 
Harris,    Isaac,   182 ;    hoists   flag   over 

Constitution,  185  ;  saves  Old  South, 

233. 
Harris,  Lord  George,  203. 
Harris,  Master,  residence  of,  161. 
Harris,  Rev.  Thaddeus  M.,  anecdote  of, 

413. 
Harris  Street,  175. 

Harrison  Avenue,  origin  and  descrip- 
tion of,  404,  405. 
Harrison,  John,  first  rope-maker,  273  ; 

ropewalks,  273. 
Harrison,  Joseph,   Collector   in  1770, 

97  ;  assaulted,  168  ;   Richard  Ack- 

lom,  170. 
Harrison,  Peter,  29. 
Harrison,  General  W".  H.,  15, 


Harris's  Folly,  281. 

Hart,  Zephaniah,  180. 

Hartford  Convention,  44,  295. 

Hartly,  Mr.,  182,  197. 

Hartt,  Edward,  180. 

Hartt,  Edmund,  ISO;  residence,  181, 
196  ;  buried,  206. 

Hartt's  Naval  Yard,  181,  163,  195,  196, 
197. 

Hartt,  Ralph,  180. 

Harvard  College,  33,  84 ;  Rumford 
Professorship,  S7,  103,  160 ;  Gore 
Hall  named,  280. 

Harvard  Place,  270. 

Haskell,  S.,  innkeep'er,  398. 

Hatch,  Israel,  innkeeper,  96  ;  adver- 
tisement, 399. 

Hatch,  Mrs.,  307. 

Hatch's  Tavern,  location  of,  313. 

Hatters'  Square,  145. 

Haverhill  Street,  378. 

Hawkins's  Shipyard,  175. 

Hawkins  Street,  371. 

Hawkins,  Thomas,  175;  shipyard,  178. 

Hawthorne,  Nathaniel,  description  of 
Old  Prison,  77  ;  invocation  to  Town 
Pump,  84  ;  Scarlet  Letter,  92  ;  Le- 
gends of  Province  House,  235. 

Hay,  Theodocia,  206. 

Eaymarket,  The,  313,  322. 

Haymarket  Square,  151. 

Baymarket  Theatre,  site  of,  313,  317  ; 
opening  and  description  of,  318. 

Hayne,  Robert  Young,  45. 

Hays,  Catherine,  298. 

Hay-scales.    See  Baymarket. 

Bayward,  Dr.  Lemuel,  residence  of, 
392. 

Bayward,  John,  Postmaster  of  Boston, 
104. 

Bayward  Place  Darned,  393. 

Bealey,  <;.  I'.  A.,  1  10. 

Heart  and  Crown.  1  I'i.  2-U. 

Beath,  Genera]  William,  I".  1  II.  1 16, 
231,  267 ;  commands  in  I 
headquarters,  388. 

Henchman,  Captain  Daniel,  200;  ac- 
credited with  planting  the  <  treal  Elm, 
831. 

!  Colonel  Darnel,  resi  lenco 


4G0 


INDEX. 


of,  76  ;  builds  first  paper-mill,  76  ; 
store,  85,  137. 

Henchman's  Lane,  199,  200. 

Hercule,  French  ship,  437. 

Hermione,  French  frigate,  356. 

Hewes,  George  R.  T. ,  residence  of,  269 ; 
Tea  Party,  282,  283. 

Hewes,  Shubael,  butcher-shop  of,  270. 

Hibbins,  Anne,  53  ;  executed,  330. 

Hibbins,  William,  53. 

Hichborn,  Benjamin,  residence  and 
sketch  of,  250  ;  commands  Cadets, 
294. 

Higginson,  Francis,  portrait  of,  346. 

Higginson,  Stephen,  196. 

Higginson,  Stephen,  Jr.,  196. 

High  Street,  37,  46,  272  ;  called  Cow 
Lane,  273  ;  affray  in,  274  ;  described, 
280. 

Hill,  Aaron,  Postmaster,  269. 

Hill,  Thomas,  406. 

Hillier's  Lane  (Brattle  Street),  71. 

Hillsborough,  Lord,  249,  398. 

Hills  Wharf,  127. 

Hinckley,  David,  residence  of,  362  ;  tra- 
gic incident  connected  with,  363. 

Historic  Genealogical  Society,  364 ; 
origin  and  sketch  of,  365  ;  building 
and  library,  365. 

Historical  Society,  Massachusetts,  39, 
40,  141  ;  relics  of  Hutchinson  in, 
167  ;  of  Province  House,  247  ;  in 
Franklin  Street,  255  ;  Speaker's  Desk 
and  Winslow's  chair,  347. 

Hodgkinson,  Mr.,  256. 

Hodson,  Thomas,  351,  352. 

Holbrook,  Abraham,  314. 

Holland's  Coffee  House,  50. 

Holley,  Rev.  Horace,  415. 

Hollis  Street,  British  works  near,  328, 
411  ;  originally  called  Harvard,  414  ; 
great  fire  in,  416. 

Hollis  Street  Church,  102,  103. 

Hollis  Street  Church,  history  of,  414, 
415,  416  ;  Stamp  Act  celebration, 
414;  burnt,  414  ;  removed  to  Brain- 
tree,  415;  tablets  in,  416;  fire  of 
1787,  416  ;  troops  quartered  in,  416. 

Hollis,  Thomas,  Hollis  Street  named 
for,  414. 


Holmes,  Francis,  innkeeper,  105. 

Holmes,  Dr.  O.  W.,  65, 19-2.  See  1 1  at 
of  the  Universe. 

Holy  Cross  Cathedral,  site  and  sketch 
of,  255,  256  ;  removal,  25»i. 

Holyoke,  Edward  A.,  39  ;  residence, 
159. 

Holyoke  Street.     See  Tremont. 

Home  of  Little  Wanderers,  222. 

Homer,  B.  P.,  residence  of,  338. 

Hood,  Lord,  310. 

Hood,  Thomas,  94. 

Hooper,  Rev.  William,  374. 

Hooten,  John,  283. 

Hopkinton,  Sir  Charles  Frankland's 
estate  at,  162. 

Horn  Lane.     See  Bath  Street. 

Horse  Pond,  329. 

Horticultural  Building,  294. 

Horticultural  Hall,  42  ;  statues  on,  344. 

Hospital  Life  Insurance  Company 
founded,  317,  377. 

Hotel  Boylston,  site  of  J.  Q.  Adams's 
residence,  319. 

Hotel  Pelhani,  313. 

Houchiu's  Corner,  70. 

House  of  Correction,  site  of,  299  ;  in 
Leverett  Street,  375  ;  at  South  Bos- 
ton, 375. 

House  of  Industry,  376. 

Hovey  and  Company,  389. 

How,"  Edward  C,  282. 

Howard,  Captain  Anthony,  25. 

Howard  Athenasum,  40  ;  site,  366.  See 
Millerite  Tabernacle  ;  opening,  368  ; 
burnt,  36S  ;  rebuilt  and  sketch  of, 
368. 

Howard,  John,  48. 

Howard,  S.,  283. 

Howard,  Simeon.  374. 

Howard  Street,  47 ;  (Southack's  Court'), 
48,  49. 

Howe,  Lord  George,  monument  erected 
to,  241. 

Howe,  Sir  William,  65,  69  ;  at  Bunker 
Hill,  70,  S6,  90  ;  arrival  in  Boston, 
125. 127, 136, 160, 177, 207,  208.  225 : 
residence,  236  ;  at  council  of  war, 
243  ;  sketch  of,  244  ;  address  before 
battle  of   Bunker  Hill,   245,   246; 


INDEX. 


40 1 


quarters  of,  271,  373  ;  stops  destruc- 
tion of  trees  on  Common,  30b',  382. 
432. 

Hub  of  the  Universe,  Dr.  Holmes  ori- 
ginates the  saying,  344. 

Hubbard,  Deacon,  231. 

Hubbard,  Thomas,  residence,  389. 

Hubbard,  Tutbill,  Postmaster  of  Bos- 
ton, 104. 

Hudson,  Francis,  202. 

Hudson's  Point,  5 ;  (Mylne  Point), 
24  ;  named,  202. 

Hull,  116. 

Hull,  General,  Lafayette  visits,  364. 

Hull,  Hannah,  204  ;  anecdote  of, 
212. 

Hull,  Commodore  Isaac,  at  Exchange 
Coffee  House,  99  ;  anecdotes  of,  99, 
100,  139,  185,  186,  188,  1S9,  190, 
192,  194,  197,  290. 

Hull,  John,  51,  52,  204,  211 ;  estab- 
lishes mint,  212  ;  supposed  residence 
of,  296. 

Hull  Street,  204  ;  named,  211. 

Humphries,  General  David,  100,  364. 

Humphries,  Mrs.  General,  residence 
of,  364. 

Humphries,  Joshua,  designs  frigate 
Constitution,  182,  192. 

Hunnewell,  Jonathan,  283. 

Hunnewell,  Richard,  283. 

Hunnewell,  Richard,  Jr.,  283. 

Hunt,  William  M.,  141. 

Huntington,  General,  364. 

Hurd,  Mr. ,  assists  in  planting  trees  of 
Great  Mall,  306.    William,  283. 

Hurdley,  William,  282. 

Hutchinson,  Anne,  51,  62  ;  trial  and 
banishment  of,  63,  226. 

Hutchinson,  Edward,  residence  of, 
171,  200. 

Hutchinson  Street.     See  Pearl  Street. 

Hutchinson,  Thomas  (Elder),  163,  164; 
residence  of,  168,  17-")  :  buried,  207  ; 
gives  land  for  school-house,  219. 

Hutchinson,  Governor  Thomas,  31,  40, 
63,  90,  102,  122.  125,  158  ;  residence 
of,  166;  sacked,  166;  description, 
167  ;  sails  for  England,  167  :  house 
built,  16b  ;  succeeds  Spencer  Phips, 


211,  223,   230,   233,  236,  240,  241, 
267,  271,  278,  293,  308,  347,  399.  413. 


[asigi,  Mr.,  344. 

inches,  Henderson,  125;  ropewalks 
of,  329. 

Independent  Cadets,  march  to  Rhode 
Island,  250  ;  quarters  and  sketch  of, 
293  ;  disbanded,  294  ;  reorganized, 
294;  escort  Lafayette,  355. 

independent  Chronicle,  enterprise  of, 
433. 

India  Street,  109,  110  ;  built,  111. 

India  Wharf,  111. 

Indians,  Eastern,  8. 

Indian  Hill,  West  Newbury,  247. 

Ingersoll,  Joseph,  innkeeper,  42,  105, 
122. 

Ingollson,  Daniel,  283. 

Insurance  Office,  first,  107. 

[pswich,  57. 

living,  Mr.,  170. 

Island  of  Boston,  152. 

J. 

Jackson,  Andrew.   95  ;  visit,  Boston, 
139,183,  185,192,  1'.':;.  194  ;  ' 
195  ;  at  Tremont  House,  290,  373. 

Jackson,  Judge  Charles,  100. 

Jackson,  Dr.,  resilience  of,  365. 

Jackson,  General  Henry,  Is'-';  anec- 
dote of  his  regiment.  130. 

Jackson,  James.  :',s,  61. 

Jackson,  Hon.  Jonathan,  43. 

Jacobs,  Mr.,  322. 

Jamaica  Pond,  23. 

James  I.,  5o. 

James  II..  34,  237. 

Jams,  Lt aid.  293. 

Jarvis,  Rev.  Samuel  P.,  -11. 

Jason.  American  Bhip,  220. 

Java,  frigate,  190. 

Jefferson,  Thomas,  126  ;  bis  embargo, 
■J7'.'  :  opinion  of  Samuel  Adams, 
308,  819 

Jeffrey  (and  Russell)  purchase  North 
Batter:  .  177. 


4G2 


INDEX. 


Jeffrey,  Patrick,  estate  of,  25  ;  Scollay's 
Building  erected  by,  75,  76. 

Jeffrey's  Wharf,  177.  Sec  "North  Bat- 
tery. 

Jeffries,  Dr.  John,  recognizes  War- 
ren's body,  69  ;  buried,  296,  363. 

Jekvll,  John,  50. 

Jenks,  Rev.  William,  57,  219 ;  his 
church  and  residence,  373. 

Jenkins,  Robert,  215. 

Johnson,  Lady  Arabella,  35. 

Johnson,  Edward,  3  ;  description  of 
Boston,  17. 

Johnson  Hall,  59. 

Johnson,  Isaac,  10 ;  his  location,  35, 
52,  59,  231 

Johnson,  Samuel,  193. 

Joliffe's  Lane.     See  Devonshire  Street. 

Jones,  Inigo,  369. 

Jones,  Commodore  Jacob,  186,  193. 

Jones,  John  Coffin,  121  ;  residence  of, 
148,  253,  3S9. 

Jones,  John  Paul,  sails  from  Boston  in 
French  fleet,  437. 

Jones,  Margaret,  hung,  320. 

Jones,  Mrs.,  256. 

Jones,  Thomas  Kilby,  Morton  Place 
named  for,  253. 

Jonson,  Ben,  61. 

Jossleyn,  John,  17,  21. 

Joy,  Benjamin,  196,  385. 

Joy,  Dr.  John,  333  ;  shop  and  resi- 
dence, 338. 

Joy  Street,  338. 

Joy's  Buildings,  corner  Congress  and 
Water,  37, 109  ;  Washington  Street, 
84. 

Julien  Hall,  277. 

Julien  House  ("  Restorator  "),  site  and 
sketch  of,  270,  271. 

Julien,  Jean  Baptiste,  residence  of, 
270 ;  dies,  271  ;  widow  succeeds 
him,  271. 

Junon,  British  frigate,  191. 


Kean,  Charles,  258. 

Kean,  Edmund,  first  plays  in  Boston, 


257  ;  second  visit  and  riot,  257 ;  anec- 
dote of,  2;")^>. 

Keayne,  Captain  Robert,  58  ;  house, 
88,  137,  300. 

Keith,  Colonel,  383. 

Keith,  Lieutenant  Robert,  221. 

Kendrick,  Captain  John,  254. 

Kennedy,  Timothy,  murdered,  424. 

Kent,  Benjamin,  269. 

Kent,  Duke  of,  in  Boston,  390. 

Kemble,  Thomas,  13, 162. 

Kidd,  William,  imprisoned  in  Boston 
Jail,  77  ;  piracies,  arrest  and  execu- 
tion, 77,  78. 

Kilby,  Christopher,  residence  of,  272  ; 
Kilby  Street  named  for,  272. 

Kilby  Street,  23,  41,  105  ;  description 
of,  109  ;  Stamp  Office  in,  110  ;  named, 
272 ;  filled,  288. 

Kimball,  Moses,  42. 

King  Philip,  40  ;  Philip's  War,  5,  83, 
331. 

King,  Rufus,  82,  269. 

King,  Thomas  Starr,  sketch  of,  415. 

Kingman,  Edward,  innkeeper,  392. 

King's  Arms.     See  George  Tavern. 

King's  Chapel,  28,  29  ;  architect  of, 
29  ;  history  of,  30  ;  description  of 
Old  Chapel,  31,  32,  33,  34,  35  ;  tombs 
under,  36,  46,  56,  61  ;  Warren's  re- 
mains deposited  in,  69,  163  ;  Gov- 
ernor Burnet  attends,  239  ;  Governor 
Shirley  buried  under,  267  ;  over- 
crowded, 385  ;  royal  gifts  to,  3S6, 
394,  416. 

King's  Chapel  Burying-Ground,  32, 
35  ;  legends  of,  36  ;  interments 
cease  in,  36,  37,  204,  205,  206  ;  Gov- 
ernor Winthrop  buried  in,  226,  22S  ; 
filled  with  bodies,  29S ;  tombs  erected 
in,  298,  323. 

King's  Head  Tavern,  site  of,  168. 

King  Street,  55,  60  ;  Andrew  Faneuil's 
warehouse,  64  ;  changed  to  State, 
89  ;  called  Congre  s,  89  ;  full  of 
dwellings,  98  ;  lower  end  in  1708, 
108  ;  great  tide  of  1723,  109  ;  Gov- 
ernor Shirley  resident  in,  239. 

Kinnison,  David,  283. 

Kirk,  Edward  N.,  50. 


INDEX. 


4G3 


Kirk,  Thomas,  170. 

Kirkland,  John  T.,  38, 100  ;  residence, 
381. 

Kirkland,  Samuel,  3S1. 

Knapp,  Josiah,  dwelling  of,  419. 

Kneeland,  Samuel,  printing-office  of, 
79  ;  prints  Boston  Gazette,  79,  80. 

Kneeland  Street  occupied  by  a  wharf, 
419. 

Knight,  Sarah,  162. 

Knox,  General  Henry,  shop  of,  S5  ; 
anecdotes  of,  85,  86  ;  portrait,  141, 
158  ;  marries,  271  ;  estate  at  Thomas- 
ton,  272,  281,  315  ;  occupies  Copley's 
house,  336. 

Kupfer,  Charles  F.,  408. 


Laboratory,  British,  on  Griffin's 
Wharf,  284 ;  American,  322 ;  an- 
other, 322. 

Labouchiere  visits  Boston,  341,  367. 

Lafayette,  G.  W.,  resides  in  Boston, 
278. 

Lafayette  Hotel,  398. 

Lafayette,  Marquis  de,  45  ;  anecdote 
of,  97  ;  in  Boston,  105,  124 ;  at 
Faneuil  Hall,  138,  139  ;  at  Boston 
Theatre,  259,  265,  278;  streets 
named  for,  316,  341  ;  reception  in 
1824,  345,  346  ;  in  1825,  346  ;  resi- 
dence in  1824,  352,  396  ;  fire  of 
1787,  416  ;  incidents  of  his  recep- 
tion, 354,  355  ;  anecdotes  of,  355, 
356,  357,  363,  364,  382. 

Lamb,  Charles,  128. 

Lambert,  Captain,  190. 

Lamb  Tavern,  site  and  history  of, 
392. 

Lameth,  Alexander  de,  433. 

La  Nymphe,  British  frigate,  191. 

La  Rochelle,  54. 

Lathrop,  Rev.  John,  160  ;  residence, 
168  ;  buried,  296. 

Latin  School  (South),  33,  44,  54,  56, 
57,  72,  75,  136  ;  Franklin  goes  to, 
146. 

Latin  School  Street,  56. 


Laud,  Archbishop,  50. 

Lauzun,  Duke  de.  cavalry  of,  descrip- 
tion of,  435  ;  incident  of  his  execu- 
tion, 436  ;  legion  of,  435. 

Lavoisier,  87. 

Lawrence,  121. 

Lawrence,  Abbott,  4(1,  120,  121,322; 
residence,  357. 

Lawrence,  Amos,  shop  of,  120  ;  resi- 
dence, 316. 

Lawrence  Scientific  Scl 1,  121. 

Laws,  curious  old,  12.  15. 

Learned,  Colonel  Ebenezer,  first  to  en- 
ter Boston  after  the  evacuation,  4o2. 

Leather  Street,  280. 

Le  Berceau,  frigate,  196,  197. 

Lechmere's  Point,  2.">. 

Lee,  American  schooner,  220. 

Lee,  Arthur,  2."i2. 

Lee,  General  Charles,  125,  42.">. 

Lee,  Joseph,  282. 

Lee,  Thomas,  residence  of,  17-i. 

Lee,  William,  entertains  Talleyrand, 
141. 

Le  Kain,  Mrs.,  residence  of,  275. 

Le  Mercier  Andre,  til. 

Leonard,  Mr.,  opens  National  Theatre, 
378. 

Les  Deux  Anges,  196. 

Levant,  frigate,  186  ;  captured,  191  ; 
flag  of,  193. 

Levasseur,  M.,  356. 

Leverett,  Governor  John,  82  :  resi- 
dence, 83,  102,  156,  174;  portrait 
of,  346. 

Leverett's  Lane.  101  :  John  P.  Wil- 
liams resides  ill.  264.      >'"     (  '- 

Street. 

Leveretl  Street,  I'd  ;  Almshouse  re- 
moved to,  800,  870  ;  jail  in,  874. 

Leveretl  street  Jail,  debtors  confined 
in,  :i7."i  ;  executions  in,  875." 

Leverett,  Elder  Thomas,  10]  ;  owned 
site  of  exchange,  101. 

Lewis,  Samuel  S.,  PJS. 

Lexington,  44,  53  :  battle  of,  187. 
Lexington   expedition    planned,  212  ; 

thwarted,  248. 
Lev,  Lord,  in  Most, in.  109. 
Liberty  Hall,  397,  398. 


464 


INDEX. 


Liberty  sloop  (Hancock's),  seizure  of, 
170. 

Liberty  Square,  109  ;  made  ground, 
109;  Stamp  Office  in,  110;  named 
for  and  celebration  of  Civic  Feast  in, 
110  ;  burnt  over,  272. 

Liberty  Tree  planted,  331  ;  arch 
erected  on  site  of,  354  ;  Stamp  Act 
repeal,  359. 

Liberty  Tree,  site  of,  396  ;  planted, 
397  ;  cut  down,  397  ;  effigies  hung 
on,  399  ;  events  under,  399,  400, 
401  ;  Liberty  stump  and  pole,  398. 

Liberty  Tree  Tavern,  398. 

Light  Infantry  Company,  294. 

Lighthouse  (tavern),  The,  26. 

Lighting  the  streets,  22. 

Lincoln,  Abraham,  141. 

Lincoln,  Earl  of,  35. 

Lincoln,  Enoch,  388. 

Lincoln,  General  Benjamin,  first 
United  States  Collector  of  Boston, 
103,  105  ;  expedition  to  Nantasket, 
116  ;  commands  troops  in  Shays's 
Eebellion,  361. 

Lincoln,  Governor  Levi,  346. 

Lincoln,  Levi,  Sr.,  388 ;  Levi,  the 
younger,  388. 

Lincoln,  Martha,  incident  of  her  de- 
cease, 388. 

Lincolnshire,  England,  6. 

Lind,  Jenny,  40,^293,  371,  394. 

Lindall  Street,  267. 

Lindel's  Row,  Mrs.  Pelham's  shop,  372. 

L'Insurgente,  frigate,  171. 

Linzee,  Captain,  sword  of,  40,  334. 

Lion  Tavern,  site  and  history  of,  394. 

Lion  Theatre,  opening  and  sketch  of, 
394. 

Lisbon,  earthquake  at,  162,  163. 

Little,  Captain  George,  196  ;  court- 
martialled,  197. 

Little  Wild  Street,  London,  58. 

Little,  William,  residence  of,  168. 

Livingstone,  Robert,  assists  in  fitting 
out  Captain  Kidd,  77,  78. 

Livingstone,  Robert,  193. 

Liverpool  Wharf,  230  ;  the  Tea  Party, 
281 ;  barracks  and  laboratory  on, 
2S4. 


Lloyd,  Dr.  James,  residence  of,  363. 

Lloyd,  James,  residence  of,  363;  en- 
tertains Lafayette,  363. 

Lloyd,  Mrs.  James,  residence  of, 
355. 

London  Bookstore,  107. 

London  Packet,  170. 

London  Stone,  144. 

I  Long  Acre.     See  Tremont  Street. 

Long  Island,  116. 

Long  Island  (New  York,)  search  on, 
for  Kidd's  treasure,  78. 

Long  Wharf,  incident  of,  100,  112  ; 
history  of,  114,  115 ;  events  con- 
nected with,  115,  116  ;  embarkation 
of  British  troops  from,  116,  117, 
327  ;  first  locomotive  landed  from 
England,  411. 

Lord  Ashburton.  See  Alexander  Bar- 
ing. 

Lord,  James,  Collector  of  Boston, 
142. 

Loring,  James  S.,  65,  314. 

Loring,  Matthew,  283. 

Lothrop,  Rev.  Samuel  K.,  76,  123. 

Loudon,  Lord,  310. 

Louisburg,  115,  137. 

Louisburg  Square,  statues  in,  344. 

Louis  Philippe  (Due  de  Chartres),  in 
Boston,  100,  101  ;  residence  of,  in 
Boston,  145. 

Louis  XVI.,  58,  110, 145  ;  portrait  by 
Stuart,  408. 

Lovell,  James,  65  ;  Collector  of  Bos- 
ton, 142  ;  residence  of,  277,  373. 

Lovell,  Master  John,  44,  57,  65  ;  eulo- 
gy on  Peter  Faneuil,  136,  245. 

Love  Lane.     See  Tileston  Street,  21S. 

Love,  Susannah,  218. 

Low,  John,  innkeeper,  2S7. 

Lowell,  Rev.  Charles,  316. 

Lowell,  Francis  Cabot,  establishes 
cotton  factories,  316  ;  city  of  Lowell 
named  for,  316. 

Lowell  Institute  founded,  316. 

Lowell,  Judge  John,  316. 

Lowell,  John,  32  ;  residence  of,  316  ; 
called  "  Boston  Rebel,"  317,  389. 

Lowell,  John,  Jr.,  founds  Lowell  In- 
stitute, 316. 


INDEX. 


465 


Lucas,  Sarah,  206. 

Ludlow,  Charles,  186. 

Ludlow,  Mr.,  15. 

Lyman,  Theodore,  Sr.,  49,  196,  371, 
389. 

Lyman,  General  Theodore,  356. 

Lynch,  General,  433. 

Lyndhurst,  Lord,  52,  53 ;  revisits 
Boston,  336. 

Lynde  Street,  370. 

Lynn,  25  ;  remains  of  Quakers  re- 
moved to,  268. 

Lynn  Street,  198 ;  ancient  arch  in, 
199,  200  ;  origin  of,  219. 


M. 

Macdonough,  Thomas,  186. 

Macedonian,  frigate,  197. 

Mackay,  William,  269. 

Mackerel  Lane  (Kilhy  Street),  105. 

Mackintosh,  Captain,  397,  399. 

Macready,  W.  C,  first  appearance  in 
Boston,  259,  394. 

Madison,  James,  105. 

Magaw,  Robert,  373. 

Magnalia,  Mather's,  4. 

Magnitique,  French  seventy-four,  lost 
in  Boston  harbor,  180,  437. 

Main-guard,  British,  90. 

Main  Street,  22. 

Malbone,  Edward  G.,  residence  of, 
353. 

Malconi,  Captain  Daniel,  207. 

Mauley,  Captain  John,  captures  by, 
220  ;  dies,  220. 

Mann,  Horace,  statue  of,  345. 

Manners  and  customs,  11,  12. 

Manufactory  House,  39  ;  site,  301  ; 
description  of,  302,  303,  304  ;  excise 
laid  on  carriages  in  support  of,  302  : 
attempt  to  occupy  it  by  troops,  303  : 
Massachusetts  Hank  in,  303  ;  build- 
ing sold,  303  ;  occupied  by  wounded, 
203,  303,  313. 

Marblehead,  stage  to,  26  ;  Frankland's 
courtship,  162  ;  Constitution  chased! 
into,  187. 

Marbury,  Rev.  Francis,  63. 
20* 


Margaret  Street,  218. 

Marion,  Joseph,  establishes  first  insur- 
ance office,  1(>7. 

.Marion,  sloop-of-war,  185. 

Market  Dock,  127.     See  Town  Dock. 

Market  Place,  first,  89  ;  in  1708,  127. 

Market  Square,  132. 

Market  Street  (New  Cornhill),  built, 
76. 

Marlborough  Hotel,  225  ;  dinner  to 
Lafayette,  364. 

Marlborough,  .John,  Duke  of,  street 
named  for,  225,  237. 

Marlborough  Street  named,  225,  '!'■>'>  ; 
new  location  of,  271,  385  ;  named 
Washington  Street,  420. 

Marquis  of  Lome,  272. 

Marston,  Captain  John,  innkeeper, 
105. 

Marshall,  John,  Chief  Justice,  38. 

Marshall  Street,  143. 

Marshall,  Thomas,  24,  202. 

Marshall  Wyzeman  opens  Eagle  Thea- 
tre, 378  ;  opens  theatre  in  Boylston 
Hall,  404. 

Marshfield,  46. 

Martin,  Mr.,  283. 

Martin,  Mrs.,  389. 

Mascarene,  Jean  Paid,  60. 

Mason,  Jonathan,  335. 

Mason,  Jonathan,  Jr.,  389. 

Mason,  Lowell,  259.     See  Odeon. 

Mason  Street,  Hatch's  Tavern  in,  313  ; 
South  Writing  School  in,  31  l  ;  Med- 
ical College  in,  317  ;  boundary  of 
Common,  296. 

Masonic  Temple  (old),  description  of, 
812  ;  Alcott's  Bchool,  812. 

Masonic  Temple  (new),  318,  319. 

Massachusetts  Bank,  site  oi  British 
Coffee  House,  Ins  ;  flrsl  location, 
303. 

Massachusetts  cent,  description  and 
history  of,  123. 

Massachusetts  I  lharitable  Fire  B 
266. 

Massachusetts  Company,  17. 

Massachusetts  Constitutional  Conven- 
tion,  45. 

Massachusetts  Frigate  built,  179. 

DD 


4G6 


INDEX. 


Massachusetts  General  Hospital,  in- 
corporated and  endowed,  247,  317  ; 
site  and  history  of,  37b",  377  ;  ether 
first  used  in,  376. 

Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  5. 

Massachusetts  Hospital  Life  Insurance 
Company,  384. 

Massachusetts  Indians,  2,  8. 

Massachusetts  Medical  College  in  Ma- 
son Street,  description,  317  ;  in  Grove 
Street,  376  ;  Parkman  murder,  378. 

Massachusetts  Mechanics'  Charitable 
Association,  first  meetings  of,  71, 120, 
147  ;  early  meetings,  149,  181  ;  build 
Revere  House,  371. 

Massachusetts  Spy  printed,  223  ;  re- 
moved to  Worcester,  223  ;  different 
locations  of,  391  ;  enterprise  of,  433. 

Massachusetts  Volunteers  (Mexican 
war),  entry  of,  into  Boston,  333. 

Mather,  Cotton,  4,  8,  57,  160  ;  res- 
idence of,  161,  162  ;  portrait  of, 
372. 

Mather,  Hannah.     See  Crocker,  175. 

Mather,  Rev.  Increase,  65,  80,  160  ;  res- 
idence, 161  ;  house  burnt,,  169  ; 
agent,  210,  391. 

Mather,  Rev.  Richard,  160,  412. 

Mather,  Samuel,  160  ;  residence,  161, 
162  ;  protects  Governor  Hutchinson, 
166  ;  pastor  of  First  Universalist 
Church,  172. 

Matignon,  Rev.  Father,  255. 

Mathews'  Block,  175. 

Matoonas,  shot,  331. 

Matthews,  Charles,  403. 

Matthews  Street,  280. 

Maverick  Church,  416. 

Maverick,  Samuel,  13,  174. 

May,  John,  residence  of,  171. 

Mayhew,  Rev.  Jonathan,  118,  374. 

Maynard,  J.  E.,  stables  of,  371. 

Mcintosh,  Mr.,  283. 

McLean  Asylum,  377. 

McLean,  John,  residence,  307  ;  anec- 
dote of,  307  ;  bequest  to  Hospital, 
377. 

McLean  Street,  376. 

McLellan,  Mr.,  364. 

McMurtie,  Mr.  276. 


McNeil,  Captain,  196. 

Mears,  Samuel,  innkeeper,  286,  428. 

Medal  voted  to  Washington,  432. 
i  Mein,  John,  establishes  first  circulat- 
ing library,  106  ;  shop,  197. 

Melodeon,  sketch  of,  394. 

Melvill,  Thomas,  Tea  Party,  282; 
preserves  small  bottle  of  the  tea, 
283  ;  residence  and  sketch  of,  372, 
373,  406. 

Melville,  Herman,  372. 

Melyne's  Corner,  289. 

Mercantile  Library,  278. 

Mercer,  Captain  George,  62. 

Merchants'  Bank,  94.  See  United 
States  Bank. 

Merchants'  Exchange,  present,  corner- 
stone laid,  278. 

Merchants'  Hall,  site  and  use  of,  as 
Post-Office  and  Exchange,  269. 

Merchants'  Row,  named,  108 ;  first 
house  of  entertainment  in,  108, 109, 
110,  112  ;  Triangular  Warehouse  in, 
131. 

Meriam,  William,  innkeeper,  287. 

Merry's  Point,  176. 

Merry,  Walter,  his  point,  176. 

Messinger,  Colonel,  139  ;  shop,  393, 
394. 

Methodist  Alley.  See  Hanover  Avenue, 
173. 

Metropolitan  Place,  419. 

Metternich,  Prince,  321. 

Mexican  war,  333. 

Mexican  Volunteers,  quarters  of,  379  ; 
neglect  and  abuse  of,  379  ;  their 
flag,  379. 

Miantonimoh  in  Boston,  108. 

Middle  Street  (Hanover),  153. 

Middlecott  Street,  370.     See  Bowdoin. 

Middlesex  Canal,  24,  152. 

Mifflin,  Thomas,  116,  220,  429. 

Miles,  Mrs.,  Governor  Eustis  lodges 
with,  365. 

Military  Company  of  the  Massachu- 
setts. See  Ancient  and  Honorable 
Artillery,  137. 

Milk,  John,  206. 

Milk,  Mrs.,  287. 

Milk  Street,  10  ;  Museum  in,  41  ;  Post- 


INDEX. 


467 


Office  in,  104,  105  ;  inhabitants  re- 
moved, 227  ;  route  of  Tea  Party, 
230;  Province  House  opposite,  235  ; 
ancient  Fort  Street,  description  of, 
251,  264  ;  notable  residents  of,  271  ; 
great  fire  in,  272. 

Mill  Bridge,  149,  152. 

Mill  Creek,  127,  131,  132 ;  bridged, 
151  ;  description  of,  152  ;  a  canal, 
152. 

Mill  Dam,  25. 

Miller,  William,  367. 

Mill  Field.     See  Copp's  Hill. 

Mill  Pond,  7,  8,  10, 126, 127,  145  ;  de- 
scription of,  150,  151,  152  ;  filled 
up,  152  ;  Baptist  Church  on,  222  ; 
Beacon  Hill  used  for  filling,  350, 
369  ;  Theatre  on  site  of,  378. 

Mill  Pond  Corporation,  151. 

Milmore,  Martin,  344. 

Milton,  first  paper-mill  in  colony  at, 
76. 

Milton  Place,  268. 

Minot's  Building,  402. 

Minot,  George  Richards,  39,  264. 

Minot,  George,  315 ;  anecdote  of,  431. 

Minot,  John,  431. 

Minot,  Stephen,  petition  of,  430. 

Minot,  William,  320  ;  office,  402. 

Minot  Street,  375. 

Minott,  Stephen,  114.  See  Tea  Wharf, 
115. 

Mint,  established  by  Massachusetts, 
422  ;  site  of,  423. 

Molesworth,  Captain  Ponsonby,  97. 

Molineux,  William,  282,  302 ;  resi- 
dence and  sketch  of,  357. 

Monck,  George,  innkeeper,  122. 

Monroe,  James,  visit  to  Boston  of,  100, 
319. 

Montagu,  Lady  Mary  Wortley,  103. 

Montague,  W.  (Admiral),  anecdotes 
of,  75,  283. 

Montague,  W.  H.,  69,  365. 

Montague,  Rev.  William,  217  ;  the 
bullet  which  killed  Warren,  218  ; 
anecdote  of,  414. 

Montgomery  Place,  294. 

Monument  (Beacon  Hill),  349  ;  history 
and  description  of,  350,  351  ;  inscrip- 


tions, 350,  351  ;  rebuilding  author- 
ized, 352,  370. 

Moon  Street,  159  ;  Samuel  Mather, 
a  resident  of,  161,  166  ;  Sun  Tavern 
in,  287. 

Moore,  Peggy,  tavern  of,  404. 

Moore,  Thomas,  283. 

Moorhead,  Rev.  John,  263, 

Moreau,    General,    139  ;    funeral    >. 
320 ;    visit    to    Boston,    320  ;    resi 
dence,  321  ;  returns  to  Europe,  321  ; 
death,  321. 

Morgan,  General  Daniel,  incident  of 
battle  of  Stillwater,  327. 

Morris,  Commodore  Charles,  99,  186. 

Morris,  Gouverneur,  anecdote  of,  429. 

Morrison,  Rev.  Dr.,  124. 

Morse,  Jedediah,  8 ;  humorous  de- 
scription of  Albany,  4-J2. 

Morse,  S.  F.  B.,  277. 

Morton,  Joseph,  innkeeper,  393. 

Morton,  Marcus,  253. 

Morton,  Perez,  resilience  of,  113,  393  ; 
last  of  the  barristers,  403  ;  district- 
attorney,  424. 

Morton  Place  named,  253. 

Morton,  Thomas,  2. 

Morton,  W.  T.  G.,  office  where  ether 
was  first  applied,  366  ;  curious  m ali- 
ment about  the  ether  discovery,  366. 

Mount  Auburn  Chapel,  statue  of  Win- 
throp  in,  226. 

Mountfort,  Col.  John,  221.    Jos.,  283. 

Mount  fort's  Corner,  158. 

Mount  Hoardam.  See  Mount  Ver- 
non. 

Mountjoy's  Comer,  158. 

Mount  Vernon  proprietors,  4  ;  use 
first  railway  in  New  England,  826 

Mount  Wollaaton,  -J.  1 1. 

.Mount  Vernon  Place,  339. 

Mount  Vernon  snot,  838,  840  ;  called 

Sumner  and  Olive  Street,  863. 
Mount  Vernon,  6  ;  called  Mount  Hoar 

dam,  829. 
Mown,  Samuel,  'Jot',. 
Muddy  River,  14 
Monroe,  W.,  innkeeper,  248. 
Murdoch,  James  EL,  104. 
Muhlenbi       I  '.  856. 


468 


INDEX. 


Murray,  General  James,  327. 

Murray,  Rev.  John,  172. 

Museum,  Boston,  38,  40,  41,  294  ;  Co- 
lumbian, 41 ;  burnt,  41,  42  ;  New 
England,  42,  74  ;  New  York,  42 ; 
Mix's  New  Haven,  42  ;  Wood's  Mar- 
ket, 132  ;  New  England,  132. 

Musgrave,  Philip,  Postmaster  of  Bos- 
ton, 79. 

Music  Hall,  294 ;  one  in  Brattle 
Street,  307,  394. 

Mushawomuk,  3. 

Myles  Standish  expedition  to  Boston 
Bav,  2  ;  costume,  11  ;  sword  of, 
40.' 

Mylne  Point  (Hudson's),  24. 

Mylne  Street.     See  Summer  Street. 

Mystic,  8  ;  River,  2. 


K 

Nancy,  British  ordnance  brig,  captured, 
220. 

Nantasket  Road,  British  fleet  in,  65, 
75,  115. 

Napoleon  Bonaparte,  139,  141  ;  Mos- 
cow campaign,  320,  321. 

Napoleon,  Louis,  in  Boston,  101. 

Nason,  Elias,  145,  162. 

Nassau  Street,  description  of,  412. 

National  Lancers,  379. 

National  Theatre,  history  of,  378. 

Naval  Academy  (Annapolis),  193 ; 
established,  385. 

Naval  Rendezvous,  North  Square, 
159. 

Neal,  Daniel,  16. 

Neck,  The,  7,  10,  21,  23,  24,  25,  43,  94, 
214  ;  Governor  Burnet's  reception, 
238,  244 ;  cathedral  on,  256  ;  Earl 
Percy's  troops  march  over,  304  ;  lines 
on,  328 ;  retreat  of  the  British  from, 
416  ;  description  of,  418,  419  ;  early 
condition  of,  419  ;  road  over,  419, 
420  ;  paved,  420,  421  ;  dikes  built  to 
protect,  420 ;  dreary  aspect  of,  421  ; 
a  resort  for  sportsmen,  421  ;  fenced 
in,  421  ;  houses  on,  421  ;  brickjrards, 
422  ;  guard  stationed  on,  424  ;  forti- 


fied, 424  ;  British  works  on,  425,  426  ; 
partly  demolished,  426  _;    American 

works,  427  ;  taverns,  on,  428,  429, 
430  ;  entry  of  American  ami  French 
armies,  432  to  437. 

Nelson,  Horatio,  Lord,  186. 

Neptune,  French  ship,  437. 

Nereide,  French  ship,  437. 

Nesbitt,  Colonel,  229. 

New  Boston,  10. 

Newbury  Street,  20  ;  new  location  of, 
291  ;  residents  of,  391  ;  named 
Washington,  420. 

New  England  Bank,  105. 

New  England  flag,  description  of,  179. 

New  England  Guards,  191  ;  in  1812, 
322  ;  survivors,  322. 

New  England  House,  132. 

New  England  Journal,  8. 

New  Exhibition  Room  (Board  Alley), 
opening  of,  261  ;  bill  of  first  per- 
formance, 261. 

New  Fields.     See  West  Boston. 

New  Guinea,  199. 

New  Haven.  55,  57. 

Newman,  Henry,  residence  of,  291. 

Newman,  Captain  Samuel,  221. 

New  North  Church,  155  ;  site  and 
sketch  of,  173,  416. 

Newport,  R.  I.,  9,  19,  29. 

New  South  Church,  22S  ;  site  and  his- 
tory of,  380,  381. 

News  Letter,  where  published,  S2,  104. 

New  State  House  first  occupied,  91. 

Newton,  Thomas,  32. 

New  York,  22. 

Nichols,  Colonel  Richard,  174. 

Nicholson,  Captain  Samuel,  1S2,  134, 
1S6,  187,  221. 

Niles's  Block,  60. 

Noah's  Ark,  175.     See  Ship  Tavern. 

Noddle's  Island,  13,  14,  23,  56  ;  Bap- 
tists meet  on.  222  ;  works  erected  in 
1814,  247  ;  garrisoned,  322,  418. 

Norfolk  County  Road,  27. 

Norman,  John,  publishes  first  direc- 
tory, 110  ;  office,  145. 

North  Allen  Street,  377. 

North  American  Review,  first  number 
of,  304. 


INDEX. 


4G9 


North  Battery,  116  ;  history  of,  170, 
177  ;  sold,  177  ;  armament,  177. 

North  Bennet  Street,  Methodist  Chapel 
in,  172. 

North  Burying-Place.  See  Copp's 
Hill. 

North  Carolina,  white  slavery  in,  14. 

North  Church,  19. 

North  End,  10,  19,  25,  26,  27,  68,143  ; 
three  streets  wide,  152  ;  British 
troops  in,  158  ;  patriotism  of  and 
famous  residents  in,  220,  221,  222  ; 
draft  riot  in,  223. 

North  End  Coffee  House,  site  of,  171. 

North  Grammar  Schools,  218. 

North  Latin  School,  218. 

North  Latin  School  Street.  See  Ben 
net  Street. 

North  Margin  Street,  150. 

North  Market  Street,  105  ;  Triangular 
Warehouse  in,  131. 

North  Mills,  151. 

North  Row,  location  of,  371. 

North  Square,  130 ;  description  of, 
156  to  170  ;  rendezvous  for  tooops, 
158  ;  barracks  in,  168  ;  Bethel 
Church  in,  169  ;  fire  of  1676,  169. 
198. 

North  Street,  7,  26,  127 ;  Wood's 
Museum  in,  132 ;  drawbridge  at,  152. 

North  Street  (Hanover),  153. 

Northumberland,  Duke  of,  407  ;  lodg- 
ings in  Boston,  410. 

Northumberland,  French  ship,  437. 

North  Writing  School,  218. 

Norton,  Mrs.,  227. 

Noyes,  Oliver,  builds  Long  Wharf, 
114. 


O. 


Oak  of  Reformation,  398. 

Obbatinewat,  2. 

Ochterlony,  Sir  David,  residence  of, 
153.  154. 

O'Connor,  Captain,  283. 

Odeon.     See  Boston  Theatre,  259. 

Orange  Street,  21,  102;  extent  and 
name,  401  ;  description,  420;  named 
Washington,  420  ;  paved,  121. 


Old  Brick  Church.  See  First  Church. 
Orations  of  the  Cincinnati  in,  105, 
155;  Washington  attends,  432. 

Old  buildings,  >  corner  Sun   Court 

and  Moon  Streets,  159. 

Old  Burying-Place  (King's  Chapel 
Yard),  35,  •"'•">.  56. 

Old  Cocked  Hat  in  Dock  Square,  his- 
tory and  description  of,  132,  133. 

Old  Comer  (Court  and  Tremonl  .  Ed- 
ward Webster's  Company  enlisted, 
379. 

Old  Corner  Bookstore,  62. 

Old  Drury.     See  Boston  Theatre,  J.V, 

Old  Fortifications,  420,  421  ;  erected, 
424  ;  history  of,  424  ;  armament, 
424  ;  garrison,  425, 

Old  .Market  House,  130.  133. 

Old  North  Church,  location  and  his- 
tory of,  Kin  ;  burnt,  169  ;  Sir  Wil- 
liam I'hips  attends,  210,  218. 

Old  Prison.     See  Boston  Jail. 

Old  South  Block,  253. 

Old  South  Church,  22,  30;  keys  de- 
manded by  Andros,  34,  35,  .".li.  1  )s, 
182,  213  ;  Dr.  Blagden  resigns  pas- 
torate of,  220  ;  history  and  descrip- 
tion of,  227,  228 ;  Lady  Andros's 
funeral,  228;  Warren's  Address  in. 
229;  Tea  Party  Meeting,  230 
pation  by  British  troops,  231,  2:t2. 
329  ;  tablet,  228;  clock,  234,  211, 
2S2,  348  ;  Governor  Eustis's  funeral, 
366,  392,  416. 

old    State    House,   84,   48 ;    used  as 

Town    1  [onse,    58,    59  ;    history    and 

description  of,   89,  '.«>,   !'l  :  Court 

House,  90 ;  .ill.  rations,  91  ;  pro- 
posal to  build  the  United  States 
Bank   on  site  of,  !U  ;    I'ost   ( (ffice   in, 

lii5  ;  Selfridge  killed  near,  lit;  first 
market  on  site  of,  130  :  rendezvous 
of  Ancient  ami  Honorable  Artillery, 
188,  2Hi.  288  ;  monument  t.. 
211:  Federal  Convention  assembled 
in,  263,  298  ;  Speaker's  desk,  ::i:  : 
description  of  Council  chamber, 
:;17.  891,  131. 
Old  stone  House  (<  : '.  d* 

seiij'tion  of,  15 1.  155. 


470 


INDEX. 


Old  Way,  The,  151. 

Old  Wharf.     See  Barricado. 

Olive  Street.     See  Mount  Vernon. 

Oliver,  Governor  Andrew,  267,  273  ; 
residence,  278  ;  mobbed,  278  ;  dies, 
278  ;  sketch  of,  278,  279 ;  hung  in 
effigy,  399  ;  resigns  office  of  Stamp- 
Master,  400. 

Oliver's  Dock,  109  ;  named  for,  110  ; 
scene  of  destruction  of  Stamp-Office, 
110. 

Oliver,  Peter,  110  ;  leaves  Boston,  278. 

Oliver  Place,  409. 

Oliver  Street,  41  ;  named,  271  ;  paved, 
272 

Oliver,  Thomas,  residence  of,  234. 

Orange  Tree  Lane,  68. 

Orange  Tree  (tavern),  25,  70. 

Orne,  Azor,  341. 

Osgood,  James  R.,  and  Company, 
304. 

Ostinelli,  Mr.,  291. 

Ostinelli,  Eliza,  debut  of,  368. 

Otis,  Harrison  Gray,  14  ;  law  office, 
44  ;  anecdotes  of,  46,  47,  57,  124, 
190  ;  first  public  speech,  256  ;  op- 
poses theatres,  261,  336  ;  residence, 
337. 

Otis,  James,  44  ;  residence,  60,  71,  76, 
89,  133, 135, 148,  149,  248,  252,  253, 
269,  351,  402. 

Otis  Street,  American  headquarters, 
383  ;  Sir  William  Pepperell's  estate, 
384. 

Oxenbridge,  John,  35,  55 ;  house, 
56. 

Oxford,  Loid,  78. 


Paddy's  Alley,  153. 

Paddock,  Adino,  26  ;  names  Long 
Acre,  289  ;  residence,  294  ;  plants 
trees  in  Long  Acre,  294  ;  Captain  of 
Artillery,  295  ;  intends  surrender- 
ing his  guns,  314  ;  intention  frus- 
trated, 314. 

Paddock's  Mall,  history  of,  294,  295, 
360. 


Paige,  E.,  and  Company,  innkeepe;3 
105. 

Paine,  Nathaniel,  237.  ■ 

Paine,  Robert  Treat,  57  ;  residence, 
265 ;  died,  265,  267  ;  sketch  of, 
266. 

Paine,  Thomas  (R.  Treat,  Jr.),  writes 
prize  address  for  Federal  Street  Thea- 
tre, 256  ;  sketch  of.  266. 

Painter's  Arms,  description  of,  144. 

Palfrey,  Rev.  J.  G,  123,  355. 

Palmer,  Edward,  15,  34.    Jos.,  283. 

Palmer,  Mr.,  residence  of,  277. 

Pantheon  Hall.     See  Boylston. 

Paper  Currency,  237. 

Park  Square,  322. 

Park  Street,  148,  299  ;  Workhouse  and 
Bridewell  in,  299  ;  town  property  on, 
sold,  300  ;  Pound  in,  300. 

Park  Street  Church,  182,  234  ;  spire 
of,  300  ;  history  of,  301  ;  architect 
of,  301  ;  capitals  cut  by  Willard, 
311. 

Park  Theatre  (New  York),  opening  of, 
417. 

Parker,  Bishop,  anecdote  of,  414. 

Parker  Block  site  of,  248. 

Parker,  Chief  Justice,  100. 

Parker  House,  57,  65. 

Parker,  Isaac,  82. 

Parker,  John,  196  ;  residence  of,  291. 

Parker,  Captain  John,  his  musket, 
347. 

Parker,  Rev.  Samuel,  387. 

Parker,  Rev.  Theodore,  bequeaths  rel- 
ics to  the  State,  346,  379,  394. 

Parkman,  Dr.  George,  165  ;  residence, 
338,  371  ;  scene  of  murder,  377. 

Parkman,  Samuel,  141, 196  ;  residence, 
371. 

Parris,  Alexander,  architect  of  Saint 
Paul's,  310. 

Parsons,  Eben,  196. 

Parsons,  Theophilus,  residence  of,  277  ; 
anecdote  of,  277  ;  J.  Q.  Adams  a  stu- 
dent with,  319,  403. 

Parsons,  Theophilus,  Jr..  277. 

Patten,  William,  malt-house  of,  416. 

Patterson,  Miss,  384. 

Paving  of  streets,  21. 


INDEX. 


471 


Pavilion,  56. 

Paxton,  Charles,  residence  of,  273  ; 
mobbed,  273,  277. 

Payne,  John  Howard,  253  ;  at  Boston 
Theatre,  259  ;  residence  and  sketch 
of,  262  ;  dies,  262,  313. 

Payne,  Mr.,  253. 

Payson,  Joseph,  282. 

Peabody,  Ephraim,  46. 

Peabody,  George,  27. 

Peale,  Charles  W.,  student  of  Copley, 
353. 

Peale,  Rembrandt,  335. 

Pearl  Street,  37  ;  route  of  Tea  Party, 
271  ;  Admiral  Graves's  quarters, 
272 ;  called  Hutchinson  Street,  273  ; 
named,  273  ;  shoe  market,  280. 

Pearl   Street  House,  248,  275. 

Peck,  John,  purchases  Province  House, 
246. 

Peck,  Samuel,  282  ;  shop,  410. 

Pelby,  William,  291  ;  opens  Warren 
Theatre,  378. 

Pelham,  Charles,  32. 

Pelham,  Mary,  residence,  371  ;  adver- 
tisement, 372. 

Pelham,  Peter,  residence,  372  ;  an  en- 
graver, 372. 

Pelican,  British  brig,  197. 

Pemberton,  Rev.  Ebenezer,  104. 

Pemberton  Hill,  6,  8,  10,  34,  47,  52, 
365,  389. 

Pemberton  House,  50. 

Pemberton,  James,  47. 

Pemberton  Square,  50,  53. 

Pemberton,  Thomas,  134,  154  ;  ac- 
count of  commerce  of  Boston,  179, 
180. 

Penfold,  383. 

Penn,  James,  56. 

Pennsylvania  Academy,  276. 

Penobscot  Expedition,  120. 

Pepperell,  Sir  William,  sword  of,  40, 
239  ;  forces  on  the  Common,  326. 

Pepperell,  Sir  William  (Sparhawk), 
57  ;  estate  and  sketch  of,  384. 

Pepys,  Richard,  4,  5. 

Percy,  Earl  of  Northumberland,  44  ; 
quarters,  53,  242,  246,  265  ;  marches 
for  Lexington,  304  ;  occupies  Han- 


cock House,  340 ;  commands  on 
Boston  Neck,  426. 

Perkins,  Augustus  T.,  336. 

Perkins,  James,  37,  196,  2S0. 

Perkins,  Sergeant,  16. 

Perkins,  Thomas,  residence  of,  291. 

Perkins,  Thomas  H.,  38,  196  ;  resi- 
dence, 277,  278;  commands  Cadets, 
294. 

Perkins  Street  named,  280. 

Perley,  Rev.  Mr.,  277. 

Perodi,  Mr.,  suicide  of,  363. 

Perry,  Commodore  O.  H.,  at  Exchange 
Coffee  House,  100. 

Pest-House  Point,  369. 

Peters,  Edward  D.,  residence  and  re- 
mains of  fortifications,  426. 

Peterson  hanged,  426. 

Pettick's  Island,  116. 

PfafTs  Hotel,  322. 

Philadelphia  Coffee  House,  171.  See 
North  End  Coffee  House. 

Philadelphia,  frigate,  186. 

Phillips,  Adelaide,  40. 

Phillips,  Edward  B.,  38. 

Phillips  Church,  416. 

Phillips,  Deacon  John,  154. 

Phillips,  General  William,  231,  383. 

Phillips,  Gillam,  332. 

Phillips,  Governor  William,  63  ;  resi- 
dence, 54,  55,  56,  100,  196,  337, 
362. 

Phillips,  Henry,  96,  332,  393. 

Phillips,  John,  first  mayor,  14;  resi- 
dence, 337. 

Phillips,  R.,  258. 

Phillips,  Wendell,  residence  of,  337, 
379. 

Phillips,  William,  Sr.,  302. 

Phillips's  Pasture,  !'»'.'. 

Phips,  Mary,  anecdote  »(.  210. 

Phips  Place,  2o:<. 

Phips,  Spencer,  residen f.  211.    8et 

David  Pelmet. 

Phips,  sir  William.  200 ;  residence, 
•_'(»:•  ;  arrival  in  Boston,  'Jl<>,  211. 

Phoebe,  frigate,  171. 

Pickering,  John,  39 

Pickering,  Timothy,  l"". 

Pierce's  Alley  <i lhan  .  105. 


472 


INDEX. 


Pierce,  William,  shop  of,  145,  283. 

Pierpont,  Rev.  John,  sketch  of,  415. 

Pierpont  (and  Storey),  set  in  pillory,  93. 

Pillmore,  Rev.  Joseph,  172. 

Pillory,  incidents  of,  92,  93,  313. 

Pinckney  Street,  334. 

Pine  Street  Church,  220. 

Pitcairn,  Major  John,  quarters  of,  158, 
159  ;  death  and  burial,  217. 

Pitt,  William,  141. 

Pitts,  Hon.  James,  residence  of,  369. 

Pitts,  Lendall,  one  of  Tea  Party  lead- 
ers, 282,  283. 

Pitts  Street,  Mexican  Volunteers  in, 
379. 

Pitts  Wharf,  127. 

Pleasant  Street,  64,  305 ;  laboratory 
in,  322  ;  British  works  in,  328. 

Pleiades  or  Seven  Star  Inn,  site  of,  387. 

Plymouth  Colony,  2  ;  relics  of,  347. 

Plymouth,  Mass.,  2. 

Plymouth  Rock,  Choate's  mot  on,  219. 

Poinsett,  Joel  R.,  139,  192. 

Point  Alderton,  116,  188. 

Point  Judith,  named  for,  212. 

Polk,  James  K.,  385. 

Pollard,  Anne,  her  landing  and  deposi- 
tion, 5. 

Pollard,  Colonel  Benjamin,  115. 

Pomeroy,  Colonel  (British),  285. 

Pomeroy,  General  Seth,  208. 

Pomeroy,  Zadock,  248. 

Pond  Lane.     See  Bedford  Street. 

Pond  Street.     See  Bedford. 

Ponsonby,  Lord,  97. 

Poor  debtors,  375. 

Poore,  Benjamin  Perley,  owner  of 
Franklin's  press,  80  ;  relics  of  Prov- 
ince House,  247. 

Pope,  Alexander,  38. 

Pope  Day,  107  ;  description  of,  149, 
150,  167  ;  anniversary  celebrated, 
399. 

Poplar  Street,  370. 

Population  of  Boston,  20,  21. 

Pormont,  Philemon,  56. 

Porter,  David,  Sr. ,  residence  of,  171. 

Porter,  Commodore  David,  111  ;  res- 
idence of,  171,  186. 

Porter,  Admiral  David  D.,  171. 


Porter,  Thomas,  282. 

Portland  Street,  126,  145.    r 

Portsmouth,  New  Hampshire,  45  ;  first 
stage-coach  to,  26. 

Portsmouth,  flying  stage-coach,  26. 

Post-Ortice  in  Old  State  House,  89  ;  on 
site  Brazier's  Building,  92  ;  in  Mer- 
chants' Exchange,  269  ;  history  and 
locations  of,  104  ;  corner  Congress 
and  Water  Streets,  104  ;  New,  141, 
254  ;  in  Summer  Street,  385. 

Post-routes,  first  established,  104 ; 
post-rider  to  Hartford,  253. 

Pound,  site  of,  300. 

Powder,  scarcity  of,  in  American  camp, 
430,  431. 

Powder-house  on  the  Common,  329  ; 
at  West  Boston,  329  ;  duel  near,  332  ; 
on  the  Copley  tract,  334  ;  descrip- 
tion of,  334. 

Powder-mill,  first  in  New  England, 
113. 

Powell,  Charles  S.,  first  manager  of 
Federal  Street  Theatre,  256,  257  ; 
fits  up  a  theatre  in  Hawley  Street, 
261  ;  opens  Haymarket,  318. 

Powell,  Jeremiah,  346. 

Powers,  Hiram,  38,  345. 

Powers,  Michael,  hanged,  424. 

Pownall,  Governor  Thomas,  40,  236, 
240  ;  anecdote  of,  241,  348. 

Pratt,  Benjamin,  office  and  description 
of,  402. 

Preble,  Ebenezer,  residence  of,  3S2. 

Preble,  Edward  E.,  195. 

Preble,  Commodore  Edward,  111,  186, 
187,  211. 

Preble,  Captain  George  H.,  179,  184. 

Prentis's,  Captain  Henry,  residence  of, 
148,  282. 

Prescott,  Colonel  William,  sword  of, 
40,  208. 

Prescott,  Judge  William,  277  ;  resi- 
dence of,  390. 

Prescott,  W.  H.,  38  ;  residence  of,  333 ; 
blindness,  and  literary  work,  334. 

President's  Roads,  187. 

Preston,  Captain  Thomas,  71,  S5  ;  de- 
fence, 126,  166,  266  ;  trial,  4U2. 

Price,  Roger,  3S6. 


INDEX. 


473 


Price,  William,  32. 

Prince,  John,  residence  of,  275,  2S3. 

Prince  Library,  234. 

Prince  of  Orange,  401. 

Prince  Street,  151,  153,  162,  202: 
named,  219  ;  description,  219  ; 
British  barracks  in,  219.  See  Black 
Horse  Lane. 

Prince,  Thomas,  52;  library  burned, 
231. 

Prince's  Pasture,  376. 

Princess  Louise,  272. 

Prison  Lane,  229. 

Proctor,  Edward,  282. 

Proctor's  Lane,  219.  See  Richmond 
Street. 

Proctor's  School-house,  223. 

Prospect  Hill,  203. 

Protector,  frigate,  211. 

Protector,  ship,  186. 

Province  Hospital,  location  of,  369. 

Province  House,  64,  65,  225,  232  ;  his- 
tory and  description  of,  235  to  24S  ; 
location,  235  ;  first  gubernatorial  oc- 
cupant, 236  ;  successive  inhabitants, 
236  to  245  ;  robbery  in,  242  ;  Lex- 
ington expedition  planned  in,  242  ; 
divulged  by  a  groom,  243  ;  Church's 
treason  discovered  in,  243 ;  built, 
246  ;  purchased  by  the  colony,  216  ; 
occupied  by  State  officers,  24(5 ; 
styled  Government  House,  246  ; 
sold,  246  ;  relics  of,  247,  293,  431. 

Province  Pest-House.     See  Hospital. 

Province  Snow,  48. 

Province  Street,  64. 

Provincial  Congress,  159. 

Public  Garden  occupied  by  ropewalks, 
324;  a  marsh,  325;  secured  to  the 
city,  325  ;  Ticknor's  heipicst,  :;.V_'. 

Public  Library,  313  ;  relic  in,  323. 

Pudding  Lane,  98. 

Pulaski,  Count,  264,  310. 

Purchase  Street,  87  ;  named,  278  | 
rope-field  in,  273  ;  birthplace  "I 
Samuel  Adams,  281  ;  description  of, 
309. 

Purkett,  I  bury,  anecdote  of,  264,  2S2, 
410. 

Putnam,  Colonel,  304. 


Putnam,  General  Israel,  69,  129;  at 
Bunker  Hill,  207,  208,  220  . 
sault   Boston,    359  ;    commands    in 
Boston,  3S2,  432. 


Q. 

Quakers,  15 ;  persecution  of,  268 ; 
build  first  brick  meeting- house, 
268. 

Quaker  Burying-Ground,  site  and  his- 
tory of,  267,  268  ;  remains  exhumed, 
268. 

Quaker  Lane,  101.  See  Congress 
Street. 

Quaker  Meeting-house,  101;  site  and 
history  of,  267.  268  ;  burnt,  267  ;  in 
Milton  Place,  268. 

Queen's  Ball  last  held  in  Boston, 
246. 

Queen's  Chappell,  33. 

Queen  Street,  65;  changed  to  Court, 
77;  Franklin's  printing-office,  80. 

Queen's  Light  Dragoons.  231, 

Quincy  Block,  279. 

Quincy,  Dorothy.  See  Hancock  and 
Scott. 

Quincy,  Edmund  (son  of  Josiah),  212. 

Quincy,  E.  S..  54,  188. 

Quincy,  Josiah,  14,  23,  82;  improves 
Town  Dock,  128,  12'.'.  130,  139,  1'.";  ; 
birthplace,  21s:  establishes  House 
of  Industry  and  Reformation,  21'.'  ; 
I 'resident  of  Harvard,  249  ;  anecdotes 
of,  25o.  27'.',  354  :  reception  ol  La- 
fayette, 356  :  Nerk  paved  b) .  121. 

Quincy,  Josiah,  Jr.  (Mayor),  23;  res 
idence,  357. 

Quincy,  Josiah,  dr.  (patriot),  resi- 
dence, 21s  ;  dies.  249  :  sketch  of, 
249  ;  Mrs.  Sigourney's  lines  on,  249. 

Quincy,  Judith,  212.  ' 

Quincy,  Mass.,  President  Mom 
Inn. 

Quincy  Market,  127  ;  description,  128, 

129.' 

Quincy    Place,    275,    280  ;    trees   in, 

409. 
Quincy,  town  of,  1 1.  2d. 


474 


INDEX. 


R. 

Railways,  experiment,  26,  278 ;  Low- 
ell, 26,  151,  350  ;  Worcester,  26  ; 
Providence,  26  ;  Maine,  26,  151  ; 
Eastern,  26,  151,  350  ;  Old  Colony, 
27  ;  Fitchburg,  27,  151  ;  Hartford 
and  Erie  (Norfolk  County),  27. 

Rainbow,  British  ship,  220. 

Rainsford,  Edward,  404. 

Rainsford's  Island,  188. 

Rainsford's  Lane.  See  Harrison  Ave- 
nue. 

Rand,  Isaac,  363. 

Randolph,  Edward,  first  Collector,  34, 
156,  157,  200 ;  imprisoned,  285. 

Randolph,  town  of,  14. 

Rantoul,  Robert,  portrait  of,  346. 

Ratcliff,  Rev.  Robert,  34. 

Rawdon,  Francis,  203. 

Rawson,  Edward,  222. 

Rawson,  Grindal,  3. 

Rawson's  Lane.     See  Bromfield  Street. 

Raymond,  James,  394. 

Read,  John,  residence  of,  402. 

Red  Lyon  Inn,  site  of,  156  ;  fire  of 
1676",  169. 

Red  Lyon  Wharf,  157. 

Reed,  Commodore  George  W.,  189. 

Reed,  Joshua,  429. 

Reed,  William,  store  attacked,  224. 

Rehoboth,  5. 

Repertory,  The  (newspaper),  91. 

Reservoir  grounds,  338,  350,  352. 

Revenge  Church.     See  Second  Church. 

Revere,  Paul,  32,  61  ;  celebrated  ride, 
69  ;  shop,  118  ;  foundry,  120,  148, 
149  ;  residence  of,  159,  211  ;  en- 
graves and  prints  money  for  Pro- 
vincial Congress,  159,  173,  182  ; 
narrative  of  ride  to  Lexington,  214, 
243,  282;  shop,  338;  illustrates 
Stamp  Act  repeal,  359,  371. 

Revere  House,  site  of,  371 ;  named, 
371  ;  distinguished  guests,  371. 

Revere  Place,  211. 

Revere's  cannon  and  bell  foundry,  200. 

Rice,  Benjamin,  282. 

Richards,  John,  shipyard  of,  178. 

Richmond  Street,  19, 155, 156, 157,198. 


Riedesel,  General  Baron,  231,  324. 

Rimmer,  Dr.,  344. 

Riot  of  1863,  142. 

Ripley,  Henry  J.,  residence  of,  222. 

Robertson,  Alexander,  313. 

Robin,  L'Abbe,  his  description  of  Bos- 
ton, 18,  19,  114. 

Robinson,  John,  assaults  James  Otis, 
108,  253. 

Robinson,  William,  executed,  330. 

Rochanibeau,  Jean  Baptiste,  Count  de, 
18,  61  ;  army  of,  113,  429. 

Rochefoucauld,  Liancourt,  Duke  de, 
141. 

Rochester,  Earl  of,  34. 

Rodgers,  Commodore  John,  186,  188. 

Roebuck  Passage,  181.  See  Merchant's 
Row. 

Roebuck  Tavern,  131. 

Rog,  John  P.,  hanged,  424. 

Rogers,  Daniel  D.,  residence  of,  358. 

Rogers,  Isaiah,  architect  of  Tremont 
House,  290  ;  of  Tremont  Theatre, 
293  ;  of  Howard  Athenaeum,  368. 

Rogers,  Simon,  innkeeper,  428. 

Rogers,  Rev.  William  M.,  259. 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  mass  first 
celebrated  in,  64. 

Romney,  frigate,  170. 

Romney,  Lord,  78. 

Ropes,  William,  residence  of,  366. 

Ropewalks,  first,  273  ;  in  Pearl  Street, 
273  ;  at  Barton's  Point,  273  ;  riot  at, 
in  Pearl  Street,  274  ;  at  the  foot  of 
Common,  324  ;  burnt,  325  ;  title  of 
proprietors  purchased,  325  ;  on  Bea- 
con Hill,  329,  352. 

Rose,  frigate,  34. 

Ross,  General,  bums  Washington, 
369. 

Rostopchin,  Governor,  burning  of  Mos- 
cow, 320. 

Rouillard,  innkeeper,  254. 

Round  Marsh,  The,  305. 

Rowe,  John,  suggests  throwing  the  tea 
overboard,  230  ;  residence  of,  390. 

Rowe  Street  named,  230,  390. 

Rowe's  Wharf,  109,  284. 

Rowse,  Samuel,  40. 

Rowson,    Mrs.    Susanna,    at   Federal 


INDEX. 


47, 


Street  Theatre,  25S  ;  establishes 
school  for  young  ladies,  259  ;  school, 
429. 

Roxbury,  17  ;  annexed,  23. 

Royal  Custom  House,  site  in  1770,  97, 
98. 

Royal  Deux  Ponts  regiment,  434  ;  uni- 
form, 435. 

Royal  Exchange  Lane,  96. 

Royal  Exchange,  London,  136. 

Royal  Exchange  Tavern,  location  of, 
96,  97,  98. 

Royal  Marines,  part  of,  in  Lexington 
expedition,  304. 

Ruby,  Ann,  206. 

Rudhall,  Abel,  214,  215. 

Ruggles,  Samuel,  builds  Faneuil  Hall, 
135. 

Rumford,  Count  (Benjamin  Thomp- 
son), 39  ;  apprentice  in  Cornhill,  86, 
87,  154. 

Russell,  Benjamin,  100,  207  ;  anecdote 
of,  266  ;  anecdote  and  residence  of, 
388. 

Russell,  John,  282. 

Russell,  Joseph,  76.     See  Green. 

Russell,  Joseph,  Jr.,  389. 

Russell,  Thomas,  96,  180,  184,  253, 
383. 

Russell,  Hon.  Thomas,  Collector  of 
Boston,  169. 

Russell,  William,  283. 


Sabin,  Thomas,  puts  on  first  stage  to 
Providence,  392. 

Sabine,  Lorenzo,  97,  410. 

Sailor's  Home,  87. 

Saint  Andrew's  Lodge,  150. 

Saint  Helena,  139. 

Saint  James  Hotel,  96. 

Saint  Maime,  ('mint  de,  435. 

Saint-Onge  (regiment),  435. 

Salem,  25,  27,  85. 

Salem  Church,  219,  220. 

Salem  Street,  7  ;  widened,  145;  called 
Back  Street,  153  ;  description  of, 
213,  219  ;  origin,  219  ;  Massachu- 
setts Spy  printed  in,  223. 


Saltonstall,  Colonel  Richard,  33. 
Salutation  Street  (Alley),  175. 
Salutation  Tavern,   site  of,  175  ;  ren- 
dezvous of  the  Boston  Caucus,  176. 
Sandeiuan,     Robert,    107,    212.       Set 

Mein. 
Sandemanians,  first  meetings  of,  150  ; 

Chapel,  172. 
Saratoga,  battle  of,  87,  103. 
Sargent,  Henry,  104,  141. 
Sargent,  Lucius  M.  (Sigma),  114,  332, 

353,  384. 
Savage,  Arthur,  217,  218. 
Savage,  James,  227. 
Savannah,  Ga.,  103. 
Savings   Bank   (Tremont   Street),  37. 
Savings  Bank  founded  by,  417. 
Scarlet,  Elizabeth,  206. 
Scarlet  Letter,  92  ;  description  of,  93. 
Scarlett's  Wharf,  114  ;  description  of, 

168. 
Scarlett's  Wharf  Lane,  168.     See  Fleet 

Street. 
School  Street,  28,  32,  56,  57,  63,  67. 
Schwartzenburg,  Prince,  321. 
Scollay's   Buildings,    37 ;    description 

of,  74  ;  history  of,  75,  76  ;  spinning 

school  on  site  of,  302,  388. 
Scollay,  John,  74. 
Scollay,  William,  39,  74  ;  residence  of, 

75  ;  improvement  of  Franklin  Street, 

254. 
Scollay  Square,  74,  97. 
Sconce.     See  South  Battery. 
Sconce  Lane.     See  Hamilton  Street 
Scoot,  Thomas,  206. 
Scott,  .Madam  Dorothy,  121  ;  residence 

of,  264  ;  dies,  26 j  ;  witncsM-s  kittle. 

of  Lexington,  265;  anecdotes  of,  265. 
Scott,  Captain  James,  264 
Scott,  General  Winfleld,  presents  flag 

to  Mexican  Volunteers,  879. 
Sett,..  Thomas,  "is. 
Seafort,  ship.  1 7*. 
Seamen's  Bethel  founded,  878 
Sean's  Building,  82,  88.     Post  Office 

(ill  site  of,    1"! 

Sears,  David,  l'."">  ;  residence,  "••'■i  ; 
commands  Cadets,  887;  mansion, 
;;:;;,  389,  396. 


476 


INDEX. 


Second  Baptist  Church,  location  and 
sketch  of,  '222,  '223. 

Second  Church  (New  Brick),  84;  history 
and  location  of,  155,  156,  158,  161. 

Seekonk  Branch  Railroad  Company 
located  on  South  Cove,  411. 

Segur,  Louis  Philippe,  Count  de,  19  ; 
account  of  Boston  Society  in  1782, 
362,  435. 

Selfridge,  Thomas  0.,  kills  Austin, 
114. 

Serapis,  frigate,  180. 

Sergeant,  Peter,  builds  Province  House, 
236,  246. 

Seven  Dials,  153. 

Seven  Star  Inn.     See  Pleiades. 

Seven  Star  Lane,  Summer  Street  so- 
called,  387. 

Sever,  James,  184. 

Sewall's  Elm  Pasture,  52. 

Sewall,  Jonathan,  273,  364. 

Sewall,  Rev.  Joseph,  138,  232. 

Sewall,  Samuel,  13,  35  ;  residence  of, 
51  ;  marriage,  52  ;  presides  at  witch- 
craft trials,  52,  204,  211,  228,  271  ; 
buried,  296,  362  ;  plants  trees,  409. 

Sewall  Street,  52. 

Seward,  Major,  206. 

Shattuck,  Lemuel,  365. 

Shaw,  Charles,  6,  8,  37,  102,  109. 

Shaw,  Chief  Justice,  83. 

Shaw,  Francis,  residence  of,  158. 

Shaw,  Lemuel,  Chief  Justice,  283 ; 
usher  of  Franklin  School,  417. 

Shaw,  Robert  G.,  residence  of,  158. 

Shaw,  Major  Samuel,  residence  of,  158  ; 
challenges  Lieutenant  Wragg,  159. 

Shaw,  WilliamS.,  38. 

Shawmut,  2,  3,  4,  6,  8,  10. 

Shays,  Daniel,  103. 

Shays's  Rebellion,  361. 

Shea,  Lieutenant,  anecdote  of,  217. 

Sheaffe,  Helen,  65. 

Sheaffe,  Mrs.,  53  ;  residence  of,  74,  410. 

Sheaffe,  Sir  Roger  Hale,  97,  154  ;  resi- 
dence and  sketch  of,  410,  411. 

Sheaffe  Street  supposed  residence  of 
John  Hull,  212. 

Sheaffe,  William,  65  ;  Deputy  Collec- 
tor in  1770,  97. 


Sheaffe,  Margaret,  97. 

Sheaffe,  Susanna,  97. 

Shed,  Joseph,  282. 

Sheehan's  Pond,  329. 

Sheemess,  British  man-of-war,  332. 

Shelburne,  Lord,  398. 

Shelcock,  Richard,  innkeeper,  112. 

Shepard,  Colonel,  275. 

Shepard,  Preston,  innkeeper,  248. 

Sheppard,  John  H.,  221. 

Sheriff,  Captain,  137. 

Shirley,  Frances,  32. 

Shirley,  Governor  William,  28,  29,  30, 
31, 32, 35,  42, 62  ;  supersedes  Belcher, 
102  ;  returns  from  Louisburg,  115, 
140,  162,  179,  211,  215,  236  ;  resi- 
dence of,  239  ;  colonial  stamp  tax, 
239,  240  ;  events  of  his  administra- 
tion, 240  ;  funeral  of,  267  ;  troops 
for  Louisburg,  326  ;  gifts  to  Trinity 
Church,  387. 

Shirley,  William,  Jr.,  killed,  240. 

Ship  Street  (North),  153 ;  description 
of,  168. 

Ship  Tavern,  site  and  history  of,  174, 
175,  178. 

Short,  Captain  Richard,  210. 

Short  Street  (Kingston),  45. 

Shubriek,  Commodore  William  B.,  1S6. 

Shurtleff,  Nathaniel  B.,  8,  62. 

Shute,  Samuel,  31,  49,  102,  236,  247. 

Shreve,  Crump,  and  Low,  390. 

Shrimpton's  Lane,  56,  96. 

Shrimpton,  Colonel  Samuel,  56. 

Sidewalks  in  Boston,  22. 

Siege  of  Boston,  86. 

Sigourney,  Lieutenant  James,  221. 

Sigourney,  Lydia  H.,  35. 

Simons,  Henry,  151. 

Simpson,  Daniel,  150. 

Simpson,  Isaac,  282. 

Sister  Street,  262  ;  name  changed,  2S0. 
See  Leather  Street. 

Sixty-fifth  British  Regiment.  32. 

Sixty-fourth  British  Regiment,  285. 

Skillin.  Simeon,  92. 

Slater,  Peter,  2S2. 

Slavery,  negro,  13  ;  white,  13, 14,  183 

Slope/,  Samuel,  282. 

Snelling,  Colonel  Josiah,  221. 


INDEX. 


477 


Snow,  Caleb  H.,  133  ;  residence  of.  158. 

Snow  Hill.     See  Copp's  Hill. 

Snow-Hill  Street,  198,  204. 

Snow,  Rev.  W.  T.,  '17. 

Small,  General  John,  69,  125. 

Small-pox  parties,  389. 

Smihert,  John,  residence  of,  72  ;  studio, 

73  ;  architect  of  Faneuil  Hall,  135, 

165,  334. 
Smibert,    Mary   (Williams),   72,   276  ; 

Governor  Oliver  a  patron.  279. 
Smibert,  Nathaniel,  72. 
Smith,  Abiel,  196. 
Smith,  Barney,  230. 
Smith,  Captain,  357. 
Smith,     Lieutenant-Colonel     Francis, 

commands     Lexington     expedition, 

242»  304. 
Smith,  J.  V.  C,  331. 
Smith,  Dr.  Oliver,  306. 
Smith,  Richard,  innkeeper,  112  ;  keeps 

Crown  Coffee  House,  112. 
Smith,  Sydney,  129. 
Smith,  W.  H.,  40,  378. 
Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  71  ;  met  at 

Bunch  of  Grapes,  105  ;  anecdote  of, 

367. 
Soissonnais  (regiment),  435. 
Somers,  Lord,  78. 
Somerset,    British   frigate,    203,    214, 

217. 
Somerset  Club  House,  363. 
Somerset     Court.       See      Ashburton 

Place. 
Somerset,  Mass.,  52. 
Somerset  Place  (Allston  Street),  363. 
Somerset  Street,  Webster's    house  in, 

46;    named  for,  52;    conveyed    In 

town,  52,  363.     See  Valley  Acre. 
Somerset,  The,  363  ;  house  built,  363  ; 

Lafayette  lodges  in,  363. 
Sons  of  Liberty,  331  ;  Stamp  Act  re- 
peal, 359,  396,  397,  398. 
Sontag,  Madame.  .",'.'1. 
Southack's  Court,  48. 
Southack  Street,  370. 
Southack,  Cyprian,  48,  49,  302. 
South    Allen    Street,    called   Payette 

Street,  316.     See  McLean  Street 
South  Battery  (Roue's  Wharf),    109, 


115,  158,   251  ;  blown  up,  272  ;  de- 
Bcription  of,  284,  327. 

South  Berwick,  Mi-.,  26. 

South  Boston,  2:'.,  -i:>  ;  City  institu- 
tions, -">7>l. 

South  Boston  Bridge,  7. 

South  Boston  Point,  338. 

South  Burying-Ground  (Washington 
Street),  gates  of,  '■<<>  ;  Granary  bo 
called,  296. 

South  Cove,  7,  8;  improvement,  411. 

South  End,  10. 

South  .Margin  Street,  150. 

South  Market  Street,  built,  bJ:>.  L30. 

South  Meeting-house.     See  <  >ld 
228,  229. 

South  Mills,  151. 

South  Street,   7. 

Souverain,  French  ship,  437. 

South  Writing-School,  location  and  in- 
cident of,  314  ;  concealment  of  can- 
non in,  314. 

Sparhawk,  Nathaniel,  384. 

Sparks,  Jared,  233. 

Spear,  Nathan,  129. 

Spear,  Samuel,  349. 

Spear,  Thomas,  283. 

Spear's  Wharf,  129. 

Spinning-schools, establishment  of,302 

Sprague,  Charles,  - 1 « >  t  ;  impromptu  on 
Lafaj  ette'a  recepl  ion,  35 1  ;  home, 
416  ;  an lote  of,  )17. 

Sprague,  Samuel,  283. 

Spring  Gate,  284 

Spring  Lane,  10,  39,  109,  234 

Springs  <>t'  water,  10,  22. 

spun-.  John,  282, 

Spurzheim,  John  Gaspard,  residence 
of,  275, 

Stackpole  Bouse,  254 

Stackpole,  William,  254 

ol  Colonial  Stamp  Act,  239, 240. 

stamp  \et,  celebration  of  repeal.  858, 
859. 

Stamford  Street,  870. 

Stanley,  Lord,  204  ;  visits  Boston,  841, 

867. 
Stark,   General  John,   relics  of  Ben 

oington,  •"')•'>. 

Stan-,  .lames,   282. 


478 


IISTDEX. 


State  Bank,  95,  104,  201. 

State  House  (new),  336,  339  ;  built  on 
Hancock's  Pasture,  339';  architect 
of,  343  ;  styled  the  "  Hub,"  344  ; 
history  of,  344  ;  statue  of  Webster, 
344  ;  of  Horace  Mann,  345  ;  of  Gov- 
ernor Andrew,  and  General  Wash- 
ington, 345  ;  tablets  in,  345  ;  Lafay- 
ette's reception  in,  345,  346  ;  Senate 
Chamber,  portraits  and  revolution- 
ary relics  in,  346  ;  ancient  codfish 
in  Representatives'  Chamber,  348, 
355  ;  faulty  proportions  of,  370. 

State  Street,  26,  41  ;  Governor  Lever- 
ett's  house,  83  ;  early  settlers  in,  88  ; 
celebration  of  Declaration  gf  Inde- 
pendence, 91  ;  widened,  101  ;  called 
the  Broad  Street,  101  ;  Jeremiah 
Dummer  bom  in,  103  ;  retrospective 
view  of,  113  ;   military  displays  in, 

113  ;  fire  of  1711,   113  ;   affray  in, 

114  ;  signs  in,  146. 
Statues,  public,  344,  345. 
Stavers,  Bartholomew,  26. 
Stebbins,  Mrs.,  407. 
Stebbins,  Miss,  345. 

Steele,  John,  commands  North  Bat- 
tery, 177  ;  ropewalk,  370. 

Stevens,  Ebenezer,  282,  295. 

Stevenson,  Marmaduke,  hung,  330. 

Stevenson,  Mary,  5. 

Stewart,  Charles,  186  ;  commands  Con- 
stitution, 191,  194. 

Stewart,  Captain,  62. 

Stewart,  T.  L.,  378. 

Stewart,  W.,  378. 

Stillman,  Rev.  Samuel,  residence  of, 
222  ;  buried,  296. 

Stillman  Street,  named,  222. 

St.  Andrew,  Holborn,  67. 

St.  Andrew's  Lodge,  196. 

St.  Botolph's  Church,  Boston,  Eng- 
land, 6,  7,  50. 

St.  Clair,  General  Arthur,  221. 

St.  Mary  Woolnoth,  church  of,  210. 

St.  Paul's,  Warren's  remains  entombed 
in,  69  ;  architect  of,  310  ;  descrip- 
tion of,  311  ;  a  new  era  of  church 
architecture,  311  ;  fourth  Episcopal 
church,  311. 


i  St.  Paul's,  London,  England,  32. 

St.  Vincent,  Lord,  407. 

Stocks,  location  of,  92.    . 

Stoddard,  Mr.,  217. 

Stoddard,  Mrs.,  21. 

Stone,  Captain,  15. 

Stone  Chapel,  33.     See  King's  ChapeL 

Stone,  General  Ebenezer  W.,  147. 

Stone,  Emily,  206. 

Stone,  innkeeper,  96. 

Storer,  Mr.,  389. 

Storey.     See  Pierpont. 

Storrs,  Rev.  Richard  S.,  415. 

Story,  Joseph,  44,  100  ;  anecdote  of, 
249  ;  opinion  of  Dexter,  353. 

Stoughton,  Governor  William,  148. 

Strafford,  Earl  of,  51. 

Strong,  Governor  Caleb,  sword  ef,  40  ; 
resides  in  Province  House,  246  ; 
sketch  of,  246,  247  ;  builds  works 
on  Noddle's  Island,  247  ;  personal 
appearance,  247  ;  town  residence  of, 
307,  364. 

Stuart,  Gilbert,  38  ;  portrait  of  Knox, 
86  ;  of  Washington,  141  ;  anecdote 
of  Talleyrand,  142,  276  ;  residence 
of,  407  ;  sketch  and  anecdotes  of, 
407,  408. 

Stuart,  Jane,  407. 

Sub-Treasury  (Exchange),  103. 

Sudbury  Lane,  47.    See  Sudbury  Street. 

Sudbury  Street,  41  ;  Governor  Eustis 
lives  in,  367,  369  ;  trees  in,  409. 

Sudbury  River,  23. 

Sullivan,  James,  39,  114,  201  ;  tomb 
of,  296  ;  residence  of,  371  ;  sketch 
of,  388,  433. 

Sullivan,  General  John,  359,  381. 

Sullivan,  Richard,  anecdote  of,  388. 

Sullivan,  William,  32,  190,  280,  388. 

Sully,  Thomas,  276,  336. 

Summer  Street,  46,  201 ,  227  ;  descrip- 
tion and  residents  of,  3S1  ;  called 
Mylne  Street,  381. 

Sumner,  Governor  Increase,  344  ;  por- 
trait of,  346. 

Sumner,  General  W.  H.,  243,  346, 
348,  367. 

Sumner  Street.     See  Mount  Vernon. 

Sun  Court  Street,  159,  161,  287. 


INDEX. 


479 


Sun  Fire  Office  in  Boston,  107. 

Sun  Tavern,  General  Dearborn's  res- 
idence, 106,  286  ;  other  taverns  of 
same  name,  2»6. 

Surriage,  Agnes  (Lady  Frankland), 
162,  163. 

Swan,  James,  residence  of,  283,  313. 

Svvasey,  Major,  383. 

Swedenborg,  Baron,  2S0. 

Swift,  General  Joseph  G.,  100. 

Swing  Bridge,  127. 

Symmes,  Andrew,  Jr.,  66. 


T. 


T  Wharf,  114,  115. 

Tabernacle,  Millerite,  location,  367  ; 
incidents  of,  367,  368  ;  changed  into 
a  theatre  and  destroyed,  368. 

Talbot,  Commodore  Isaac,  187,  196. 

Talleyrand,  Prince,  in  Boston,  141  ; 
amour  of,  142. 

Talleyrand,  Perigord,  anecdote  of,  435. 

Tarleton,  Colonel,  436. 

Taylor,  Rev.  E.  T.  (Father),  residence 
of,  169. 

Taylor's  Insurance  Office,  196. 

Tea  Party,  72,  115,  120,  148,  149  ; 
meeting,  229,  230,  231,  264  ;  route 
of,  271  ;  arrival  at  Griffin's  Wharf. 
281  ;  names  of,  282 ;  anecdotes  of, 
282,  283,  284. 

Tedesco,  Fortunata,  308. 

Temple,  Sir  John,  337,  349. 

Temple,  Robert,  215. 

Temple  Street,  named,  350. 

Territory  included  in  Boston,  14;  en- 
largement of,  23. 

Thacher,  James,  430. 

Thacher,  Peter,  39, 123,  155  ;  installa- 
tion, 173. 

Thacher,  Peter  0.,  38  ;  office,  402. 

Thacher,  Samuel  C,  38. 

Thatcher,  Mary,  204. 

Thacher,  Rev.  Thomas,  227. 

Thaxter,  Adam  W.,  1  11. 

Thayer,  Ephraim,  182. 

Theatre  Alley,  254.  See  Devonshire 
Street. 


The  Great  Artillery.  See  Ancient  and 
Honorable  Artillery,  137. 

Thirty-eighth  British  Regiment,  113, 
116  ;  arrival  of,  170. 

Thomas  and  Andrews,  bookstore  of,  391. 

Thomas,  Isaiah,  79,  80,  98,  100,  107; 
prints  Massachusetts  Bpy,  223  ; 
bookstore,  223,  252  ;  anecdote  of, 
413,  433. 

Thomas,  Mr.,  body  of,  exhumed,  216. 

Thompson's  Island,  incident  of  pur- 
chase, 431. 

Thorndike's  Building,  287. 

Thorndike,  Israel,  389. 

Thome,  Charles  R,  259. 

Thornton,  J.  Wingate,  365. 

Thornton's  Shipyard,  181. 

Thorwaldsen,  344. 

Three  Doves,  146,  147. 

Three  Nuns  and  a  Comb,  146. 

Three  Sugar  Loaves  and  Canister,  146. 

Ticknor,  George,  residence  of,  353. 

Ticknor,  Mrs.,  364. 

Ticonderoga,  removal  of  cannon  from, 
86,  87. 

TilestoD,  John,  residence  of,  218. 

Tileston  Street,  171.  213  ;  named,  218. 

Tileston,  Thomas,  00. 

Tilley's  Wharf,  180. 

Tingey,  Commodore,  382. 

Tinville,  Fouquier,  436. 

Tippecanoe,  battle  of,  168. 

Tontine  Crescent,  39  ;  built,  254  ;  de- 
scription of,  255. 

ToplifFs  Reading  Room,  269. 

Topography  of  Boston,  7. 

Tout,  Elizabeth,  206. 

Tower,  Abraham,  222. 

Town  Bull,  129. 

Town  Cove,  7.  8,  115,  177. 

Town  Dock,  7,  B,  19,  102,  108;  de- 
scription of,  126,  1-7  ;  corn  market 
at.  ill.  152,  389. 

Town  House.  :;i  ;  (Old  state  House), 
58,  89  :  Pillory  and  storks  m  front 
Of,  92  ;  Post  Office  In,  104  :  burnt, 
113  ;  massacre,  ^•y<.  285,  399,  100, 

Town  Pump,  location  of,  84,   11s;  U 

other  in  North  Square,  L59. 
Town  Records,  19. 


480 


INDEX. 


Town  Watering-Place,  381. 

Townsend,  Colonel  Penn,  289. 

Transcript,  Boston,  267. 

Trask,  Isaac,  innkeeper,  248. 

Trask,  Nabby,  248. 

Traveller  Building.  See  Columbian 
Centinel. 

Traverse  Street,  Warren  and  Eagle 
Theatres  in,  378. 

Trefry,  Widow,  26. 

Trees,  disappearance  of,  409  ;  planting 
of,  by  early  settlers,  409,  410. 

Tremont  House,  289  ;  built,  and  anec- 
dotes of,  290,  291 ;  Common  extends 
to,  296,  353. 

Tremont  Row,  47,  56  ;  Choate's  office 
in,  82  ;  Dr.  Lloyd's  in,  363. 

Tremont  Street,  9,  10,  35,  37,  38,  39, 
41,  47,  48,  49,  63,  65,  68,  70,  72,  75  ; 
Faneuil's  house  in,  135  ;  description 
of,  289  ;  Long  Acre,  289  ;  muster  of 
Earl  Percy's  brigade,  304  ;  Mather 
Byles  a  resident  of,  412  ;  a  part 
called  Nassau  and  Holyoke  Street, 
412  ;  opened  to  Roxbury,  412. 

Tremont  Temple  burnt,  292. 

Tremont  Theatre,  history  of,  291  ;  cast 
at  opening,  292 ;  managers,  292  ; 
description  of,  293,  378. 

Triangular  Warehouse,  130,  131. 

Trimountain,  6,  17. 

Trinity  Church,  30  ;  description  and 
history  of,  386,  387  ;  General  Wash- 
ington attends,  387,  416. 

Trinity  Church,  New  York,  227. 

Triomphant,  French  ship,  437. 

Tripoli,  171. 

Trucks,  long,  177. 

Truckmen,  177. 

Truman,  John,  283. 

Trumbull  Gallery  (Yale),  73. 

Trumbull,  Jonathan,  414. 

Trumbull,  Colonel  John,  69  ;  studio  in 
Boston,  73  ;  paintings  74,  269,  336  ; 
exploit  of,  426. 

Truxton,  Commodore  Thomas,  182. 

Tucker,  Joseph,  rebuilds  Christ  Church 
steeple,  214. 

Tucker,  Commodore  Samuel,  residence 
of,  220  ;  exploits,  221. 


Tuckerman,  H.  T.,home  of,  421. 

Tuckerman,  Joseph,  38; 

Tudor,  Frederick,  founds,  the  ice  trade, 
304. 

Tudor,  Deacon  John,  175. 

Tudor,  William  (Judge),  82,  304. 

Tudor,  Madam,  175. 

Tudor,  William,  Jr.,  38  ;  originates 
North  American  Review,  304  ;  pro- 
poses a  monument  on  Bunker  Hill, 
304. 

Tudor's  Buildings,  82. 

Tun  and  Bacchus,  146. 

Tupper,  General  Benjamin,  exploit  on 
Boston  Neck,  427. 

Turell,  Mr.,  123  ;  Captain,  161. 

Turner,  Robert,  innkeeper,  122. 

Turtle,  Charles  W.,  272. 

Twelfth  Congregational  Church,  64. 

Twenty-third  British  Regiment,  part 
of,  in  Lexington  expedition,  304. 

Twenty-ninth  British  Regiment,  89  ; 
quarters,  121, 123  ;  at  the  Massacre, 
126  ;  on  the  Common,  326. 

Twickenham,  145. 

Two  Palaverers.  See  Salutation  Tav- 
ern, 176. 

Tyler,  Royal,  269. 

Tyler,  sculptor  of  London,  England,  32. 

Tyng,  Captain  Edward,  179. 

U. 
Uhlans,  436. 

Umbrellas  first  used  in  Boston,  116. 
Union  Bank,  113. 
Union  Church,  148. 
Union  College,  262. 
Union  Hill,  203. 
Union  Street,    10,    126,   130  ;  named, 

145 ;  widened,  147. 
United    States    Bank,   first    location, 

92  ;  directors  of,  389  ;  in  1S24,  94  ; 

sketch  of,  95  ;  second  location,  95  ; 

Eagle  from  old  Bank,  95  ;  iron  gates 

of,  96  ;  third  location,  96,  104,  295. 
United  States  frigate,  181 ;  accident  to, 

183. 
United  States  Hotel,  located  on  South 

Cove,  411. 


INDEX. 


481 


Universalist  Church,  School  Street,  63, 

64. 
University  Hall  (Cambridge),  370. 
University  of  Utrecht,  103. 
Upshall,  Nicholas,  residence  of,  157. 
Urann,  Thomas,  282. 
Uring,  Captain  Nathaniel,  account  of 

the  Neck,  419. 
Urqhart,  James,  383. 
Ursuline  Convent  in  Boston,  256. 
Usher,  Air.,  Andros  confined  in  house 

of,  285. 

V. 

Valley  Acre,  situation  of,  365,  369. 

Valparaiso,  Essex  blockaded  in,  171. 

Van  Buren,  Martin,  visits  Boston,  139, 
185,  192. 

Vane,  Sir  Henry,  50;  executed,  51, 
108,  109,  226. 

Vardy,  Luke,  keeps  Royal  Exchange 
Tavern,  96. 

Vassall,  Florentine,  31,  32. 

Vassall,  John,  55. 

Vassall,  Leonard,  residence  of,  389. 

Vassall,  William,  31,  76  ;  residence  of, 
389. 

Vaudreuil,  M.  de,  61  ;  fleet  of,  in  Bos- 
ton, 437. 

Vaughan,  Charles,  39;  improves  Frank- 
lin Street,  254. 

Vergennes,  Count  de,  58. 

Vermont,  ship-of-the-line,  1S5. 

Vernon,  Admiral  Edward  (Old  Grog), 
110. 

Vernon  Street,  375. 

Vidal,  Captain,  142. 

Vila,  James,  innkeeper,  105. 

Vine  Street,  built,  376. 

Vionienil,  General,  356  ;  entry  into 
Boston  in  1782,  433,  434. 

Virginia,  ship-of-the  line,  185. 

Vyal,  John,  innkeeper,  174. 


W. 

Wade,  Edward,  26. 
Wadsworth,  .fames,  bounty  for  rats, 
395. 

21 


Wadsworth,  Recompense,  first  master 
of  North  Latin  School,  218. 

Wakefield,  Cyrus,  124. 

Wales,  Prince  of,  in  Boston,  371. 

Walker,  Admiral  Sir  II.,  48. 

Walker,  Robert,  305. 

Wallach,  Mr.,  262. 

Wallcut,  -Mr.,  39. 

Waller,  Edmund,  181. 

Walley,  Thomas,  196. 

Walnut  Street,  334  ;  residents  of,  337, 
338. 

Waltham  Street,  sea  wall  built  to, 
420. 

Walter,  Arthur  M.,  38. 

Ward,  General  Artemas,  69;  com- 
mands in  Boston,  3S2  ;  relieved,  :;s:;, 
432. 

WardeU,  Jonathan,  25,  70. 

Wards,  division  into,  civil  and  militarv, 
21. 

Warren,  John  C,  38,  61,  247  ;  resi- 
dence of,  297,  311,  376. 

Warren,  Dr.  John,  house,  60. 

Warren,  Joseph,  birthplace  of,  60; 
resilience  of,  68  ;  manner  of  his 
death,  69,  70,  121  ;  portrait,  140, 
Ms,  149,  176,  203,  211,  214  ;  bullet 
which  killed  him,  218  ;  address  in 
Old  South,  228,  '-'In  2';:'  ;  chaise  of, 
274,  283  ;  remains  placed  in  Granary 
Ground,  297,  3ns,  311  ;  a  student  of 
medicine,  363 ;  Governor  Ehistis stud- 
ies with,  366  ;  anecdote  of,  423. 

Warren  Street,  Roxbury,  61. 

Warren  Theatre,  378. 

Warren,  William,  40  ;  dibut  in  Boston, 

368. 
Washington  Artillery,  2S8. 
Washington  Hank,  Bite  of,  lot. 

Washington      (iardens,      old       Masonic 

Temple  built  on  site  of,  .".12  ;  loca- 
tion of,  312  ;  history  of.  313. 
Washington,  <  leorge,  31,  38 :  visit  of,  to 
Bo  ton,  l'-'.  13,  H.  58  ;  \i-dts  Boston, 
17.".''..  ''.'_'.  66,  7-".  ;  third  visit,  91,  124; 
portrait  by  Stuart,  1  il.  158  :  ap- 
proves building  six  frigates,  l^l  ; 
first  monument  to,  216,  220  ;  de- 
feated, 2ii.  2';-;,  279,  285,810;  stat- 

ZE 


482 


INDEX. 


ues  of,  344,  345  ;  orders  Boston  at- 
tacked, 359,  373  ;  attends  Brattle 
Street  and  Trinity  in  1789,  387  ; 
Stuai^'s  portrait  of,  408  ;  orders 
levelling  of  works  on  Neck,  426  ; 
uniform  of,  429  ;  arms  of,  431 ;  en- 
try into  Boston,  1776,  432. 

Washington  Hall,  site  of,  430. 

Washington  House,  site  of,  429. 

Washington  Hotel.     See  Hall. 

Washington  Market,  426  ;  site  of,  429. 

Washington,  Martha,  38. 

Washington  Monument,  278. 

Washington  Place,  288  ;  Gilbert  Stu- 
art's residence  iu,  407. 

Washington  Street,  20,  22,  35  ;  (Corn- 
hill,  Marlborough,  Newbury,  Or- 
ange), 102  ;  great  fire  of  1787,  416  ; 
narrowness  of,  419  ;  named,  420  ; 
extent  of,  420. 

Washington  Theatre.    See  Garden,  313. 

Washington  Village,  23. 

Wasp,  American  ship,  280. 

Watch-house  on  Beacon  Hill,  334. 

Water,  supply  of,  22,  23. 

Water  Street,  37  ;  bridge  at  foot  of, 
109,  141  ;  description  of,  234  ;  Brit- 
ish barrack  in,  234 ;  trees  in,  409. 

Watertown,  159. 

Webb,  John,  173,  174. 

Webb,  Mr.,  leaves  legacy  for  Alms- 
house, 300. 

Webster  Buildings,  46. 

Webster,  Daniel,  44  ;  law  office,  44  ; 
school,  45  ;  anecdotes  of,  45,  46,  47  ; 
first  office,  79,  82, 124, 140  ;  portrait 
in  Faneuil  Hall,  140,  150.  279; 
statue  of,  344,  353  ;  Lafayette  visits, 
365  ;  anecdotes  of,  382  ;  receives 
Lafayette,  382  ;  defends  Powers, 
424. 

Webster,  Edward,  died,  46,  379. 

Webster,  Ezekiel,  45. 

Webster,  Fletcher,  killed,  46. 

Webster,  John  White,  residence  of, 
165  ;  execution  of,  375,  378. 

Webster,  Redford,  residence  of,  165. 

Weekly  Rehearsal,  234. 

Welsh  Fusileers  at  Bunker  Hill,  203, 
229,  285. 


Wells,  S.  A.,  141. 

Wells,  William,  38. 

Wellfieet,  49 

Welsteed,  Rev.  William,' 336. 

Wendell,  Jacob,  42,  65,  115. 

Wendell,  John,  42. 

Wendell,  Oliver,  65,  66  ;  residence  of, 
279. 

Wentworth,  Mrs.,  389. 

Wesley,  John,  172. 

Wesleyan  Association  Building,  site  of 
Indian  Queen,  248. 

West,  Benjamin,  38,  336 ;  Stuart  a 
pupil  of,  408. 

West  Church  (Lynde  Street),  72,  234  ; 
windmill  near,  369  ;  historv  of,  374, 
416. 

West  Boston,  10  ;  windmill  at,  199  ; 
Powder  House  at,  329  ;  defence 
of,  362  ;  description  of,  369,  370  ; 
streets  of,  370  ;  town  institutions  at, 
374. 

West  Boston  Bridge,  369. 

West  End,  10. 

West  Hill,  mortar  battery  on,  325. 

West  Newbury,  Franklin's  press  at, 
80. 

West,  Raphael,  408. 

West  Row,  location  of,  371. 

West  Roxbury,  23. 

West,  Rev.  Samuel,  415. 

West  Street,  10,  93;  limit  of,  the  Mall, 
306 ;  Haymarket  in,  313  ;  Whipping- 
Post  and  Pillory  near,  313. 

Western  Avenue  (Mill  Dam),  25. 

Westminster  Abbey,  32. 

Wetherle,  Joshua,  appointed  mint- 
master,  422. 

Wetmore,  Judge,  403. 

Wetmore,  William,  389. 

Whalley,  General  Edward,  55. 

Wharton  and  Bowes,  shop  of,  85. 

Wheatley,  John,  233. 

Wheatley,  Phillis,  residence  and  sketch 
of,  233. 

Wheeler,  Benjamin,  66. 

Wheeler,  David,  20. 

Wheeler,  Josiah,  282  ;  builds  Hollis 
Street  Church,  415. 

Wheeler,  Mr.,  322. 


INDEX. 


483 


Wheeler's  Point,  25  ;  trees  planted  on, 

409. 
Wheelwright's  Wharf,  British  barracks 

on,  274,  2S4,  358. 
Whidah  (ship),  49. 
Whig  Club,  269. 

Whipping-Post,  location  of,  92,  313. 
Winston,  Mr.,  314,  315. 
White  Horse  Tavern,  site  and  sketch 

of,  392,  393. 
White,  Marcy,  206. 
White  Plains,  battle  of,  87. 
Whitebread  Alley.    See  Harris  Street. 
Whitefield,    Rev.    George,    64,    102  ; 

preaches  on  the  Common,  358. 
Whiting,  William,  74. 
Whitman,  Zachariah,  416. 
Whitmore,  W.  H.,  122. 
Whitney,  Colonel,  287. 
Whittington,  Richard,  131. 
Whitwell,  William,  387. 
Wilder,  Marshall  P.,  365. 
Wildes,  Ephraim,  innkeeper,  154. 
Wilkes,  John,  52,  269,  432. 
Willard,  Solomon,  architect  of  United 

States  Bank,  94,  310  ;  sketch  of,  -".1 1  ; 

architect  of  Bunker  Hill  Monument, 

312  ;  discovers  Bunker  Hill  Quarrv, 

312,  337. 
William  and  Mary,  210. 
William  III.,  charter  of,  209,  237. 
Williams  College,  120. 
Williams  Court,  338. 
Williams  John,  170. 
Williams,  . John,  hanged,  424. 
Williams,  John  I).,  420. 
Williams,    John    Foster,    211  ;    died, 

211,  264  :  street  named  for,  280. 
Williams    Market,    old     fortifications 

near,  424,  42.".. 
Williams,  Major,  203. 
Williams  Street  named,  280.    See  .Mai 

thews  Street. 
Williamsburg,  battle  of,  168. 
Willis's  Lane.     See  Winter  Street. 
Wilmington,  Mass.,  26. 
Wilson's  Lane,  56  ;  description  of,  101. 
Wilson,  John,  50,  '.»l  ;  estate  of,  92, 

212. 
Wiltshire  Street.  See  Chambers  Street. 


Windmill,  old,  1  f»0  ;  one  at  Wesl   Boj 

ton,  199.  See  Windmill  Point 
Windmill  Hill.  See  Copp's  Hill. 
Windmill  Point,   7  ;    (Wheeler's)    25, 

381. 
Wing's   Lane  (Elm  Street),  102,  126, 

145. 
Winnisimmet,  1 1,  24  ;  ferry,  68. 
Winslow,  Governor  Edward,  -lit  ;   his 

chair,  :'.  17. 
Winslow  Blues,  137,  190. 
Winslow,  John,   recognizes  Warren's 

body,  69  ;   store  and   residi 

87. 
Winter  Hill,  203. 
Winter  Place,  Samuel  Adams's  house 

in,  308. 
Winter  Street,   noted    residents.    "i>7  ; 

Mis.  Dexter' e  307  ;  Samuel  Adams's, 
308;  called  Blott's,  Bannister's, and 
Willis's  Lane,  308. 

Winthrop   House,   site,    318 ;    burnt. 
318. 

Winthrop,  John,  2,  3,  1.  9,  10,  11  ; 
chosen  selectman,  1  1. 1'.',  25  :  burial- 
place,  :'>">  ;  portrait .  I",  17.  •''".  51  ; 
Anne  Butchinson  on  trial.  63;  at. 
tends  First  ( Jhurch,  91  ;  invites  Lord 
bey  to  his  house,  1"'.'  ;  journal,  180 ; 
orders  ship  built  at  Medford,  17*; 
company .  202  ;  residence,  225  :  house 
destroyed  by  British,  225  ;  sketch 
of,  225  :  death,  225  :  statue  i 
234  :  portraits  of,  346,  -".17 

Winthrop,  Judge,  39. 

Winthrop's  Marsh,  109. 

Winthrop  Place,  364. 

Winthrop,  Robert  •'.,  57  ;  birthplace, 
254  :    residence  of,  837  ;    proposes 

Franklin  statue.  887,  852. 

Winthrop,  aloop,  186. 
Winthrop,  Lieutenant  Qovernoi 

a    l .  .  189,  190  :    residence  i 

Lafayette  \  isits,  •"■''■  I 

Wirt,  William,  82. 

Wobui  -  . 

Wood,  original  growth  of,  1". 

Wood,  William.  6,  16. 

W Ibridge,  Benjamii  . 

w Ibury,  Levi,  L89,  I 


484 


INDEX. 


Woodmansie's  Wharf,  127. 
Worcester    Spy.      See    Massachusetts 
Spy. 

Wolfe,    General,  proposed  monument 

to,  241,  244,  326,  327. 
Workhouse  in  Park  Street,  203,  299, 

300 ;    occupied  by    wounded,    300, 

359. 
Wortley,  Lord,  visits  Boston,  341. 
Wragg,  Lieutenant,  quarters  of,  158. 
Wren,   Sir  Christopher,   epitaph,   76, 

369. 
Wright,  Colonel  Isaac  Hull,  379. 


Wyeth,  Mr.,  283. 

Wyre,  Robert,  residence  of,  171. 


Yale  College,  72. 

Yale,  Governor  Elihu,  73  ;  epitaph,  73. 
York  (Toronto),  Royal  Standard  cap- 
tured at,  106. 
Yorktown,  Va.,  103. 
Young,  A.  B.,113. 
Young,  Dr.  John,  176,  269. 
Young,  Thomas,  282. 


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